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Routes as trad in Dalpura Head

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Showing all 6 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
The Lost Pillar
13 Bendy Banana Chimney

First pitch of first(?) ascent route of 'The Lost Pillar'. Start at DBB next to big block in high point of notch on Pillar side. Follows chimney (good pro) between precariously balanced banana shape block and Pillar to block perched on top, DBB on block or good natural gear belay on ledge below upper wall. Rap to notch off DBB.

FA: Tony Williams/Nora Adam/ Josh Dodson, 2003

Trad 20m
12 Original Way Up

2nd pitch of original route up Pillar. From top of Bendy Banana Chimney head up diagonally left up cracks and blocks to double ring anchors and top of Pillar.

FA: Josh Dodson/ Tony Williams/ Nora Adam, 2003

Trad 20m
15 Sherpa's Revolt

Starts on spacious ledge above 'Bendy Banana Chimney' on West Face upper tier. Follows 3 bolts and some small/ medium cams right to arete of Lost Pillar and up to 'diving board' block. Great exposure and views. Belay bolts are the rap station rings at top of pillar. Sign the Log Book, Rap down Josh's pitch.

FA: Tony Williams/ Nora Adam, 2004

Mixed 20m, 3
16 Gundu

Starts on spacious ledge above 'Bendy Banana Chimney' on West Face upper tier. Follows 3 bolts and some small/ medium cams on left side of upper tier and up to 'diving board' block. Belay station is the rap station (double rings) at top of Lost Pillar. 20m rap to 'Bendy Banana block' or 50m to notch (hard rope pull).

FA: Tony Williams/ Nora Adam, 2004

Mixed 20m, 3
23 Lost Crack
1 23 20m
2 18 25m
3 19 25m
4 16 40m

Major direct corner system on the south west side of the pillar. All trad, and done ground up in the finest possible style (if you disregard nude soloing).

  1. 20m (23) Up thin crack and either step right to belay or continue straight up second pitch. This pitch is shared with Josh's Big Trad Line.

  2. 25m (18) Step back into thin corner and up, past blocks and roof to base of clean chimney

  3. 25m (19) Up clean line and thru roof to belay

  4. 40m (16) Up chimney to ledge and finish up right arete (Gundu).

FFA: Adrian Lang & Mike Law, 2009

Trad 110m, 4
Dalpura Wall
25 End of Days

Not the usual Bluies jug haul. Bring a cut-down trad rack - double cams to handcrack size and no wires. Named in memory of Nick Kaz, who was killed on the same day as this route was established.

Start: Rap descent as for I Scream.

  1. 30m (22) Start as for I Scream pitch 1 at wide sandy corner crack. At 2nd bolt step right (trad) and up steep flake crack, mostly on finger/small hand sized cams. One bolt when the flake gets wafer thin. Finish up wall on bomber micro cams. Belay on comfy ledge right of orange wall.

  2. 20m (23) Stellar! Left across orange face to breach roof on left side. Up exposed techy arete to belay ledge. A sport pitch.

  3. 20m (25) Stretch those calves and chalk those palms! Traverse left to stunning fused bridging corner that's lovingly cleaned to perfection. Four bolts then final finger crack on cams.

  4. 15m (15) Easy juggy ironstone slab trending left. Belay on big vegetated ledge.

  5. 35m (21) Surprisingly sustained face which looks like an ironstone jug haul from below. Bring three bolt hangers for the occasional random carrot.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Lee Cujes (Alt Leads), 10 Oct 2008

Trad 120m, 5

Showing all 6 routes.