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Description

Shade until 2pm with a fairly cruisy 40 minute walk if you can follow the tape markers!

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

Park at large pull out 2.2km west from Mt Wilson turn-off on Bells Line of Road. Cross road to south side and locate well worn foot path. Follow this for 15 minutes (it turns into an old road) until it disappears. Follow yellow coloured tape markers through bush and down ridge to small col. Drop down right side (keep folowing the tape markers!) and follow cliff edge into gully and back up the other side. Continue along semi-open ground following tape markers for another 15 minutes to arrive at cliff top and large bollard with sling. Navigation is quite hard as you don't have any points to aim for. It is highly recommended to take a GPS (Carpark -33.5353, 150.3195 Halfway -33.5436, 150.3140 Crag Top -33.5484, 150.309).

© (nmonteith)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
5
22 End Of Days p1 Unknown 30m
6
23 End Of Days p2 Unknown 20m
7
25 End Of Days p3 Unknown 20m
8
15 End Of Days p4 Unknown 15m
9
21 End Of Days p5 Unknown 35m
10
27 Jocation p1 Unknown 50m
11
18 Jocation p2 Unknown 50m
12

Easisest way from Lost pillar notch to 2nd pitch of Welsh Dragon.

FA: Tony Williams

13

Climb from below or rap in 70m from 4 bolts at top of wall to double rings. Traverse diagonally right past 4 bolts (brackets needed) to 3BB.

FA: Josh Dodson/ Tony Williams, 2003

14

Climb from below or rap in 60m from 4 bolts to 3BB at spacious belay ledge. 6 bolts (will put 1 more in soon! between 1st and 2nd bolt). #3 camalot helpful to calm the nerves at half way point. Pick the right way through the 1 foot shale ledge to the trees (saplings) and DBB.

FA: Tony Williams/ Nora Adam/, 2003

15

Climb from below or rap 30m from 4 bolts to semi hanging DBB near small trees. 11+ bolts (brackets needed). Great exposure and positions on many good and a few not so good holds. Awesome wall climbing.

FA: Tony Williams/ Nora Adam/ Josh Dodson, 2003

16
25 Crankenstein p1 Unknown 35m
17
24 Crankenstein p2 Unknown 40m
18
24 Crankenstein p3 Unknown 35m
19
19 M1 * Welsh Dragon Sport 88m

WARNING - bolts on this route may be dangerous. Face climbing up large black wall opposite the Lost Pillar. Bolted with spaced glue-in carrots. Total shade until very late in the day.

  1. 20m (- M1) Ring-bolt aid ladder from Lost Pillar notch up to ledge. Scramble right along ledge to double bolt belay. First ascent of this pitch was in 2006.

  2. 15m (16) Delicate moves to slopey holds whilst traversing right. Good warm up for next pitch.

  3. 25m (18) Great pitch through some scary bits. Don't fall between 1st and 2nd bolt or you will...?

  4. 28m (19) Great climbing on vertical wall with just enough bolts to stay sane!

FA: Tony Williams, Nora Adam, Josh Dodson, 2008

20
25 ** End of Days Trad 120m

Not the usual Bluies jug haul. Bring a cut-down trad rack - double cams to handcrack size and no wires.

Start: Rap descent as for I Scream.

  1. 30m (22) Start as for I Scream pitch 1 at wide sandy corner crack. At 2nd bolt step right (trad) and up steep flake crack, mostly on finger/small hand sized cams. One bolt when the flake gets wafer thin. Finish up wall on bomber micro cams. Belay on comfy ledge right of orange wall.

  2. 20m (23) Stellar! Left across orange face to breach roof on left side. Up exposed techy arete to belay ledge. A sport pitch.

  3. 20m (25) Stretch those calves and chalk those palms! Traverse left to stunning fused bridging corner that's lovingly cleaned to perfection. Four bolts then final finger crack on cams.

  4. 15m (15) Easy juggy ironstone slab trending left. Belay on big vegetated ledge.

  5. 35m (21) Surprisingly sustained face which looks like an ironstone jug haul from below. Bring three bolt hangers for the occasional random carrot.

21
23 * The Opposition Sport 95m

Gripping arete which offers a good escape when finished with the Lost Pillar. 14 draws and 8 brackets.

Start: First major arete 50m to right (north) of the Lost Pillar and 5m left of Crankenstien. To get to the start either rap down 'Welsh Dragon' and trash through the thick bush or rap direct down the route. The top of the climb is at the bottom of a major gully 50m right of the double bolts above 'Welsh Dragon'. There is a set of double BRs on a ledge at the top, rig a couple of slings and rap into the unknown.

  1. 15m (22) Leftwards to high first ubolt then left again to arete. Ponder the lack of holds, find a solution and scuttle up to belay below steep orange arete.

  2. 40m (23) Steeply up right side of arete with a few long moves. Cross a minor choss band then continue up the ladder of jugs. Finish with a few techy crimp moves on the left then right side of arete.

  3. 40m (18) Jugs to big break, over this then up techy black arete on little ironstone edges. Ramble up ledgy stuff to finish. Botl plates needed for this pitch. Belay off double BRs.

22
25 * Crankenstein Sport 110m

Classic big sport cranker.

Start: Down to gully and out left. Locate lunch cave and scramble down to the R (facing out) to ledge and DBB (this is the 3rd belay).

  1. 35m (25) Up leaning L side of arete until obvious move around to R side. Up to small footledge and semi-hanging DBB. About 11 BRs.

  2. 40m (24) Follow the amazing steep line of scoops for miles until it blanks out on a black wall. Thin moves then up to Balderstone Point and DBB. Scramble up to the other DBB on Balderstone Point.

  3. 35m (24) Out L then crank onto arete (desperate). Up arete which looks easy to top.

FA: Mike Stacey & Steve Moon, 1999

23
27 Jocation Sport 100m

A big arete.

Start: Locate the top of the Lost Pillar. Scramble down and abseil off 3BB below cairn 10m west of Lost Pillar. Take about 16 bolt plates and 2 ropes, rap down 50m and pull ropes, rap bottom pitch on single fixed to vegetated ledge about 15m from the ground.

  1. 50m (27) Rounded arete past bolts to ledge, 2nd bolt needs a sling to ease clip-fear.

  2. 50m (18) Loose arete past bolts. Mike thought this was going to be grade 8 when he bolted it.

FA: FA: Mikl Law, Fronkie Huster, Ness Peterson, 2000

FFA: Mikl, Ness, 2002

24

Four varied pitches - and one stopper move on pitch three.

Start: Rap in from sling around bollard above 'End of Days'. Best to fix 100m of rope to ring bolt anchors at end of pitch 1 of I Scream ect, then 30m rap to start belay ledge from there. Alternatively use double ropes and rap down 35m, 15m, 40m, 30m.

  1. 35m (23) Long and sustained face climbing. Easy sandy corner crack to roof, undercling left and across face which thins alarmingly near the end. FFA Neil Monteith & Jesse Lomas 31/10/2008

  2. 45m (23) Long and exposed fused flake just right of arete to top of pillar. Up and left across short orange face to shale break. Past this on jugs to belay in slabby corner stance at triple bolt belay. Sustained! FFA Neil Monteith & Jesse Lomas 31/10/2008

  3. 32m (27) Yet to be led clean. Pull on crux bolt to knock this pitch down to grade 23. Left onto arete then left again to short juggy face. Thin moves to horizontal, left along this to reachy move over rooflet (glued-up hold). Up very exposed left facing corner to juggy finish and comfy bivi ledge under huge roof. FA Jesse Lomas & Neil Monteith 31/10/2008

  4. 13m (20) Short, steep and exposed. Up and left on ironstone jugs to hit roof at mossy crack. Jugs to top. Double ring belay. FFA Neil Monteith & Jesse Lomas 31/12/2008

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