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Nice orange rock. Big roof area. Easy access.


The info described here is a bit of an educated guess, as the routes were not written up when first done (just names and grades) and the order may not even have been entered correctly. The topos may be inaccurate - if you know better please fix them! Bolts are stainless, but hot bent so look black.

Access issues

Private Property. Take care, don't get climbing banned


As this crag sees almost no traffic, there is no established track to the cliff. Expect a (short) but vigorous bushbash. Go to end of Delmonte Drive, and then bash down the hill to the crag (crossing a walking track about halfway down) . It's a bit tricky the first time, but once you know the way, it takes about 15 minutes.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.



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Grade Route

The nice orange wall, covered in bolts, located between two large cave sections. Seems like there is only 3 lines of bolts, but 6 routes listed?

FA: Josh Dodson, 2003

FA: Ian Geatches, 2003

FA: Ian Geatches, 2003

FA: Josh Dodson, 2003

FA: Ian Geatches, 2003

FA: 2003

Orange cave just right of the Northern Wall.

Quite hard climbing through the obvious roof features. Maybe 27? Obvious line of bolts through roof.

Traverse the crack for the Howlin Wolf (?? not listed) to the lower offs.

FA: mad taff Tony Williams, 2004

FA: Josh Dodson, 2004

Climb the crack (crux) then get on the overhang thru the dinner plates to lower offs.

FA: Tony Williams, 2004

All roof, right through the middle of the orange roof. Currently equipped with 14 year old nylon 'permadraws' that are probably highly dangerous.

FA: Ian Geatches, 2004

Straight off the nose of the buttress. Clip the first bolt of Buckaroo if you need to and then head up to the next on the direct. #1 and #2 cam for next placement. To rings!

FA: Tony Williams, 2004

Go from the slope to the first bolt, get to the 2nd bolt. Gear from here. Good one if you've got your chick in tow that needs a lead. Hard to clean if you don't have a second.

FA: Tony Williams/ Nora Adam, 2004

Right hand buttress first lin eafter corner.

FA: Nora Adam/ Tony Williams, 2004

A bit to much catalyst in the megapoxy for the anchors, so a third bolt was added. Will get around to cleaning this up. Route look dirty, but the rock is mostly good.

FA: Ian Geatches, 2005

The best route at the crag. The direct start is a project.

FA: Josh Dodson, 2004


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