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Summary

Nice orange rock. Big roof area. Easy access

Description

Next crag along from the Flying Fox area, which Pole 28 is part of. Bolts are stainless, but hot bent so look black.

Access issues

Private Property. Take care, don't get climbing banned

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1

FA: Josh Dodson, 2003

2

FA: Ian Geatches, 2003

3
23 Defibrillator Sport 15m

FA: Ian Geatches, 2003

4
20 Wee Dram Sport 15m

FA: Josh Dodson, 2003

5
23 Topsail Sport 12m

FA: Ian Geatches, 2003

6
22 First Mate Sport 12m

FA: 2003

7

Maybe listed in the pole 28 area

8
21 ** Mad Taffy Traverse Unknown 25m

traverse the crack for the howlin wolf to the lower offs.

FA: mad taff Tony Williams, 2004

9
26 Triple Treat Sport 12m

FA: Josh Dodson, 2004

10
21 ** Chainsaw Juggler Unknown 10m

Climb the crack (crux) then get on the overhang thru the dinner plates to lower offs.

FA: Tony Williams, 2004

11
25 Hornblower Sport 12m

All roof, right through the middle of the orange roof

FA: Ian Geatches, 2004

12
19 Buckaroo direct Unknown 10m

Start at the nose and go to first bolt. Stick clip it if you have to you pussies.

FA: Tony Williams, 2004

13
AU 19 Buckroo Direct Trad 10m

Straight off the nose of the buttress. Clip the first bolt of Buckaroo if you need to and then head up to the next on the direct. #1 and #2 cam for next placement. To rings!

FA: Tony Williams, 2004

14
14 Buckaroo Trad 10m

Go from the slope to the first bolt, get to the 2nd bolt. Gear from here. Good one if you've got your chick in tow that needs a lead. Hard to clean if you don't have a second.

FA: Tony Williams/ Nora Adam, 2004

15
8 Exotic as I am Unknown 12m

Right hand buttress first lin eafter corner.

FA: Nora Adam/ Tony Williams, 2004

16
23 Test Drilling Sport 10m

A bit to much catalyst in the megapoxy for the anchors, so a third bolt was added. Will get around to cleaning this up. Route look dirty, but the rock is mostly good.

FA: Ian Geatches, 2005

17
24 Gold Dust Sport 15m

The best route at the crag. The direct start is a project.

FA: Josh Dodson, 2004

Open trips

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