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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
13 Sweet and Sour Trad 25m

Rarely climbed. Good luck.

Start: Start 20m right of where the access track meets the bottom of the cliff line. The start is in a small corner faintly marked SS in the middle of the wall capped by a large orange roof.

FA: H. Luxford, 1994

2
14 Vision Sport 15m

Rarely climbed. Good luck.

Start: This may start 25m right of Sweet And Sour at a corner that leads up to a shallow groove on the left hand side of a small wall above the track.

FA: B. Cameron, N. Smith, 1994

3
20 Worlds in Collision Sport 40m

Rarely climbed. Good luck.

Start: Located about 70m right from the start of the cliff line just beyond where the track makes it way through the middle of a small clump of trees. The first fixed hanger is clearly visible above the chossy start.

FA: B. Cameron, B. Moon, 1994

4
24 * Zones of Love Sport 33m

FA: M. Hanselman, 1995

5
23 * Unity Sport 33m

FA: M. Hanselman, 1995

6
23 * The Bolt Bloke Sport 30m

Starts up juggy overhanging "arete" a few metres left of obvious dank corner (corner is marked "RF"). The Bolt Bloke goes right just before gaining the headwall proper (Unity goes left).

There are no permanent anchors for this climb. Either top out, or traverse a few metres left and use the anchors on Unity (The Bolt Bloke can be cleaned on lower-off from these anchors without any problems).

FA: J. Smoothy, 1994

7
13 Roaring Fifties Trad 32m

Rarely climbed. Good luck.

Start: Located 5m to the right of 'The Bolt' Block and is faintly marked with RF behind a tree. There is a fixed hanger 4m off the ground but how you get to it and where you go after it is a mystery.

FA: H. Luxford, S. Chambers, 1994

8
13 Southerly Buster Trad 32m

Rarely climbed. Good luck.

Start: Faintly marked CB.

9
17 Christmas Route Trad 65m

2 pitches. Rarely climbed. Good luck.

Start: Faintly marked CR.

FA: H. Luxord, P. Crittenden, R. Harris, 1994

10
17 Fountain of Youth Trad 60m

2 pitches. Rarely climbed. Good luck.

Start: Faintly marked FoY. This appears to be the line of carrots heading up to the right and then into the unknown.

FA: H. Luxford, B. Cameron, M. Magnan, N. Smith, 1994

11
23 * Uncooth Youth Sport 18m

Start: The line of fixed hangers 20m right of 'The Bolt' Block.

FA: J. Clark, M. Wilson, 1995

12
26 ** Family Jewels Sport 25m, 8

Techy, punchy, strenuous, and sustained from the 4th bolt onwards. Independent start between Uncouth Youth and You Crazy Diamond. Tough start, then cruisy past 3 bolts trending up and right into start of "groove". Up past 2 bolts to crux, then sustained hard climbing past 3 more bolts, culminating in airy climbing trending left after last bolt to anchors.

Set by Paul Thomson, 2013

Set by Paul Thomson, 2014

FA: Paul Thomson, 2014

13
26 Crystalis Sport 20m

Start as for 'You Crazy Diamond' but between the 4th and 5th bolt follow the line of ringbolts heading left.

FA: M. Brooks, 2002

14

Start up You Crazy Diamond for 3 bolts,1 bolt on Crystalis then thinly up new line. One for the old school technical face lovers. Great high stepping pocket crux with many other tricky spots to a high finish up the orange streak.

Set by Ben JengA, 2013

FA: Ben Jenga, 2013

15
23 *** You Crazy Diamond Sport 26m

Good moves and a long sustained pitch that keeps you thinking all the way to the anchors makes for an excellent climb. A single carrot followed by fixed hangers.

Start: Start 12m right of 'Uncooth Youth' and is marked by a 23 etched into the rock.

FA: C. Hale, M. Wilson, 1995

16
25 8 Carat Sport 26m

Hard moves getting up to and over the nose and established onto the arête followed by surprisingly pumpy face climbing between well spaced bolts. Finish at the anchors of 'You Crazy Diamond'.

Start: The line of ringbolts up the blunt arête 3m right of 'You Crazy Diamond'.

FA: M. Brooks, 2002

17
24 Easy Grounds a Comin Sport 58m

Start: Start as for 8 Carat but at the 3rd bolt traverse right and continue to follow the line of ringbolts on the far side of the arête.

  1. 30m (24) Caution: Beware of your rope length.

  2. 28m (18)

FA: C. Richards, 2002

18
22 * Hanging Offence Trad 60m

3 pitches. Rarely climbed. Good luck.

Start: Start 15m right of 8 Carrot. Marked HO. The right facing corner with 2 fixed hangers to start.

FA: H. Luxford, S. Chambers, 1994

FFA: J. Clark, 1995

19
20 ** In Harm's Way Trad 66m

Marked. Obvious trad-venture corner system. Originally climbed (and written up in the guidebook) as 3 pitches. Best climbed as 2 x 35m pitches. Bolt plates, wires and a single rack of cams 0.3 - #3.

  1. Stick clip fixed hanger, then up hard start past bad rock to gain corner. Wires, fixed peg and carrot up corner until it ends. Bolt, then slightly left and up past crux slab to gain second corner system. Up corner for 10m (until the corner blanks out on yellowish, steepending rock, approx 10m below roof) and belay 2m right on carrot, wires and #1/#3 cams.

  2. Up harder, steepending corner until below roof (wires and small-medium cams). Bolt, and easy traverse under roof to bolt past lip (clip this to avoid rope getting stuck in the crack), then easy runout headwall to 3 x carrot belay 2m from cliff top.

Bush-bash uphill and left to gain main descent track.

FA: H. Luxford, B. Cameron, 1995

20
19 Homo Ignoramus P1 Unknown 30m
21
19 ** Homo Ignoramus Trad 60m

3 pitches. Rarely climbed. Good luck.

FA: B. Cameron, B. Moon, R. Harris, 1995

22
18 New Year Route Trad 60m

2 pitches. Rarely climbed. Good luck.

FA: H. Luxford, B. Cameron, R. Harris, 1995

23
20 Giant Staircase Mixed 81m, 11

Starts up In harms way for one pitch. Nice trad line wandering across the middle of the wall. Set of wires, set of cams #00 to #5 wild country, double up on #00 to #1.5 extender draws handy.

FFA: Mark Wilson, Brendan Helmrich

24
21 Lucy in the Sky Mixed 50m, 7

Access: Abseil to double U bolts with small footledge 15m above the ground. 7 bolts, wires, double set of cams from #0.5 to #4 with triples of #1 and #2.5 (wild country friend), take 20 quickdraws. Has a distinct crux. Climb up and slightly left past 2 U bolts, continue up and slightly left then straight up aiming for 3 fixed hangers half way up the route. There are 2 fixed hangers when you climb through the overhang at the top. Save a #2.5 friend for 4m before last 2 bolts.

FFA: Brendan Helmrich, Mark Wilson

25
21 Amber Gem Mixed 50m, 4

Access as for “Lucy”. 4 bolts, wires, cams from #00 to #0.5 double from #1 to #4 and triple of #3(wild country friends) Start as for “Lucy”. After the two U bolts continue up past flake systems following least line of resistance. After 20m you will pass 2 rings. Continue up, at major overhang traverse 3m right to double U Belay on “Diamonds and Pearls” below stepped roof weakness. Continue up “Diamonds and Pearls” last pitch

FFA: Brendan Helmrich, Mark Wilson

26
21 Diamonds and Pearls Sport 50m, 10

Access as for “Lucy”. 10 bolts, set of cams from #0.5 to #4 doubles from #1 to #2.5, take 15 quickdraws.

FFA: : Mark Wilson, Brendan Helmrich

27
21 Stairway to Heaven Sport 45m, 3

Variant last pitch to “Giant Staircase” Rack as for “Giant Staircase” At 14m take the left flake past 3 fixed hangers, slightly left then up via main left facing corner system to belay on double U bolts as for “Diamonds and Pearls”. Continue up “Diamonds and Pearls” last pitch.

FFA: Mark Wilson, Brendan Helmrich

28
25 *** Diamond Dillema Sport 30m, 15

Start up IF for the first 3 bolts then breaks left and a long way up with just the right mix of jugs and techie sequences.

FFA: Ben JengA, 2012

29
24 *** Innocent Fortune Sport 30m, 12

Superdooper fun up an improbable line. Thin crux at 3rd bolt then funky flakes all the way up. Starts 10m before Diamond Jack.

FFA: Ben JengA, 2012

FA: 2012

30
25 * WoW Sport 30m

Start as for Diamond Jack clip the first bolt then break left across the face on a series of crimps to a big flake undercling, dynamically up up and away. Finishs at the Diamond Jack anchors.

Set by Andy Richo.

FA: Andy Richardson., 2013

31
25 ** Diamond Jack Sport 60m

Start: Start 25m right of In Harm's Way at the boulders just before where the access ledge becomes alarmingly narrow, slopey and exposed.

  1. 30m (25) Rebolted (2006). All U bolts. Wonderful climbing up the orange face to a small belay ledge with a 3 ringbolt belay. The top is a little runout.

  2. 30m (19) This pitch is on carrots and requires 10+ bolt plates. A 2 ringbolt anchor is at the top.

FA: John Smoothy

FA: J. Smoothy, G. Bradbury, 1995

32
26 ** A Girls Best Friend Sport 35m

Start as for 'Diamond Jack'. At the 5th bolt move right then straight up. Warning: Beware of the rope length.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2006

33
21 ** The Jewel Thief Sport 28m

Start as for 'Diamond Jack' and then traverse right and up following the line of ringbolts. Stick clip the first ringbolt as it is quite high and the moves to get to it a little tricky. Beware of your rope length or you may end up down climbing the tree suspended over the void.

FA: Chris Coghill

34
20 Gem Stone Sport 31m, 9

Gem of a second pitch to “The Jewel Thief”. When you reach the anchors of “The Jewel Thief” continue up 2m then left 5m passing a ring to reach the first pitch anchors of “Diamond Jack”, 3 rings and a carrot. “Gem Stone” starts from this belay. Can also be accessed by rap from above. Nine rings, double U bolt lower off 1m below top of cliff. 60m should reach on stretch if lowering back to belay anchors. 38m to reach bolt belay if topping out. Enjoy 

FFA: Mark Wilson, Brendan Helmrich

35
14 Warlock Trad 55m

Rarely climbed. Good luck.

Start: 70m to the right of 'Diamond Jack' the track passes a large boulder in amongst the trees. 'Warlock' starts another 10m to the right. Marked with a W and the first carrot is visible 3m above the track.

FA: H. Luxford, S. Chambers, 1994

36

One day soon this will go…?

37
12 Fool's Paradise Trad 50m

Rarely climbed. Good luck.

FA: H. Luxford, S. Chambers, 1994

38
15 Black Diamond Trad 50m

Rarely climbed. Good luck.

FA: B. Cameron, B. Moon, 1994

39

Rarely climbed. Good luck.

FA: B. Cameron, 1994