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Description

Environmental Issue: Please do not leave quickdraws on routes. The walk in to Mr Wall takes 12 minutes if you're psyched, or 15-20 if you care about your knees.

In the past, for convenience, it has been a common practise for climbers to leave quick draws on routes for extended periods of time. Unfortunately 'Diamond Falls' is often buffeted by very strong winds and as a result this practice has led to significant rock scarring on several popular routes. Climbers are therefore urged to no longer continue this practise.

© (Ashy)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
26 ** Mr Wendle Sport 10m, 4

Short, steep and good. In addition to power you will need loads of body tension to thug your way up this little baby. Alternatively you can just launch for the slopy jug and try and avoid a lot of the hard stuff. The first half is one of the better warmups for Mr Wall.

FA: Justin Clark, 2000

2
27 *** Porridge and Soot Sport 10m

The extension to 'Mr Wendle'. From the anchors of 'Mr Wendle' traverse right along the lip followed by a killer rock over move that may or may not be a heart breaker. Now continue up the wall and finish at the anchors of 'Impossible Princess'. Originally bolted by Justin Clark.

FA: Ben Cossey, 2005

3

If the long routes are a little too intimidating this dynamic classic is for you. Fun climbing and jumping between some good holds.

Dont be scared of jumping!

FA: Andrew Bull, 1997

4
33 *** Over Monkey Sport 18m

No under dogs here. Shares a similar style to its neighbour Rhythm & Stealth. A lovely start up 'Impossible Princess' leads directly into the wall above, past the 'Rhythm Method' anchors and trending rightward and becoming rather tricky. Finish's on the same anchors as Rhythm & Stealth.

FA: Ben cossey

5
26 ** Rhythm Method Sport 12m

Unfortunately a hold has come off so the original sequence needs to be modified. The original grade is still valid. You just need to start the climb with your hands the right way around, having done that you should be able to unravel yourself along the traverse and set yourself up for the crux.

FA: David Gliddon, 1999

6
32 ** Rhythm and Stealth Sport 15m

Start as for 'Rhythm Method' but follow the right hand line of rings up the wall after 4m. Rhythm And Stealth is a rad boulder problem on top of another boulder problem with chunky moves and fingery holds. Quite a nice solid number if the weather is not so good but jugs in the cold.

FA: Zac Vertrees

7
project Project (Ben) Unknown

Independent line starting a few metres right of Rhythm Method.

8
34 *** Mr Pink Sport 20m

Boulderyness to top of cliff, anchors over lip up high and left past the "lonely virgin" finger lock.

Start: double dyno off cool slopes on boulder wall.

FA: Benjamin P. Cossey, 2009

9
33 *** Tucker Time Sport 23m

Tucker Time is sooooo rad. A technical boulder problem on the face down low leads to a massive rest you can bury bodies in, then truckin' on upward is another little punch followed by the crux of 'Super Duper Goo' and finish with the best roof climbing known to man. Skip the last two bolts in the roof, get a little slack and take the cleanest 20m fall you've ever had.

Tucker Time

FA: Zac Vertrees

FA: Zac Vertrees, 2005

10
27 *** Mr Magoo Sport 20m

Intimidating is an adjective often used to describe 'Mr Magoo'. Reasonably spaced bolts and a fingery crux well above the previous bolt gives rise to quite a bit of excitement and air time. The pumpy runout finish just adds to what is a truly memorable route.

FA: Justin Clark, 1999

11
28 *** Super Goo Sport 22m

Extension to Mr Magoo through the roof.

FA: Justin Clark, 1999

12
29 ** Super Duper Goo Sport 20m

Great climbing getting continually harder as you go. Start as for Mr Magoo but after the sixth bolt head left crossing Tucker Time and continue left and over the left side of the roof.

FA: Lee Cossey, 2004

13
30 *** Tuckered Out Sport 23m

Tuckered Out is probably the best route on the wall, grade wise, climbing wise and fun wise. It has so much more climbing than most of the other routes. Climb 'Super Duper Goo' but finish up the roof of 'Tucker Time'.

FA: Zac Vertrees, 2005

14
30 *** Mr Meaner Sport 22m

A good, less steep offering. A hard start that can be done many ways sets you up for a good rest followed by great consistent climbing. A big crux move guards the anchor jugs and easier climbing. Conservation is the name of the game on this one.

FA: Justin Clark

15
26 *** Super Weak Sport 15m

One of the classic test piece 26's in the mountains that keeps you working from start to finish. A burly, awkward move gets you off the deck and established onto the flake. The technical crux now follows which involves a gnarly fingery traverse to the right. Before you rest on your laurels, 'Super Weak', like all good climbs has the dreaded "linkage crux" lurking somewhere beyond the technical crux. Now make a quick dash for the mid height rest before the pump spits you off. Having sufficiently recovered, head straight up the wall past another tricky section where you must weigh up the pros and cons of clipping the dogging bolt. Just to put the icing on the cake, the finish requires an unnerving balency move to lean back and reach up to clip the anchors. Having put your heart and soul into ticking this absolute ripper you would think you deserved at least a 27 for the effort.

FA: Justin Clark, 1997

16
26 ** Mr Weak Sport

Start as for 'Super weak' to the horizontal break then thin moves to descent rest, big moves on big holds to finish. A touch easier the the original but you still have to do its crux traverse.

Set by Ben JengA.

FFA: Ben JengA, 2013

17
project Open Project 1 Unknown
18
project Open Project 2 Unknown
19
32 * Theda Bara Sport 20m

Very sequency and originally graded 33 with consideration to modern climbing strengths and a loss of old school techniques. However it seems the modern climbers' old school techniques were underestimated. As a result most ascentionists consider the route to be about 30, with a few different sequences possible. As more people tick the route, the consensus grade will average out.

FA: Garth Miller, 1998

20
33 ** Grey Area Sport 18m

Was for four years the hardest route in the country. A classic Miller route, involving a fine balance of power and precision.

FA: Garth Miller, 1999

21

The greatness of life is impossible to realise before you cast your eyes upon this, the route of all routes. At the time of completion it is the hardest route in the country and the hardest climbed by an Australian. Up 'Fantastic Mr Fox' and without dangling about on the rest, bust up and into a thin crux until you reach Grey Area's rest, shake out here then finish up 'Grey Area' and climb to the top of the cliff.

FA: Lee Cossey, 2006

22
33 *** Fantastic Mr Fox Sport 18m

Ever imagined what the best route in the cosmos would be like?...wonder no longer and get yourself down to DF today! The most technical, fingery, tensiony, positiony, brain flaking hard route around. There is no route better.

FA: Ben Cossey, 2006

23
33 *** Mr Sneaky (link-up) Sport 18m

To avoid entirely stealing/climbing what was Ben's project (FMF), a variant was done in which all of the business of Ben's project is climbed. Hence the name.

FA: Lee Cossey, 2006

24
31 ** Mr Carpet Burn Sport 18m

A crag classic. Originally bolted and chipped by Kim Carrigan, this was the first route after Giles' Hairline 2000 to be climbed. The climbing on this landmark route is typical of the Blue Mountains. (Chipping is by no means a theme of the crag and is actually limited to this route. This route gives no justification for further manufacturing here or anywhere else in the Blue Mountains.)

FA: Garth Miller, 1996

25
30 *** Mr Universe Sport 18m

Packs a punch for the grade and the length. Start as for 'Mr Carpet Burn' but at the mid height ledge traverse left and finish up 'Fantastic Mr Fox'.

FA: Ben Cossey, 2004

26

Australia's first 35. An open project for over a decade. Alex took about 20 shots to send it, not long after he'd onsighted 9a at Siurana.

Set by Garth Miller, 1999

FA: Alex Megos, 2013

27
project Project 2 Unknown
28
28 *** Hairline 2000 Sport 18m

The original climb here. Considered by some to be the right hand variant to the more popular 'Fresh Goats Milk' ... but others think it was Giles who had all the vision.

FA: Giles Bradbury, 1994

29
28 *** Fresh Goats Milk Sport 18m

A more obvious line for an already classic route makes this little fella one of the best you can hope for in terms of fun and satisfaction. While not the original line, it has developed a cult following and many now opt for an ascent on this rather than the original line Hairline 2000.

FA: Ben Cossey

30

People complain about link-ups, but if it's fun it's fun and this one's great. Up Fresh Goats Milk to the rest then right into the crux of Mr Tickle .... delishious.

FA: Ben Cossey, 2006

31
32 *** Mr Tickle Sport 25m

A great line, fun moves and quite sustained.

FA: Lee Cossey, 2001

32
32 *** Mr Line (link-up) Sport 25m

Supposed to be the easier variant to 'Mr Tickle', some people lacking adequate forearm fitness actually find it to be harder. Start as for 'Mr Tickle' but traverse left and finish up Hairline.

FA: Lee Cossey, 2001

33
26 * Runt Sport 10m

Runt is a good fun climb in a nice position and has some interesting sequences of bouldery moves as it traverses right across its more illustrious neighbours. Runt is underrated and far to often overlooked but would be very popular at any other crag. So have a go, you might be pleasantly surprised but just remember to keep some energy in reserve because there's a sting in the tail.

FA: Justin Clark, 1997

34
31 *** Dogbite Sport 18m

Bouldery and gymnastic with an engaging thought provoking finish.

FA: Garth Miller, 2005

35

"The Ticklish Dog". At times a link-up is better than both halves and this recent addition proves this. An absolute classic. Climb Dogbite to the bottom of the slab then go left via a fantastic boulder problem to the marginal rest on Mr Tickle, squeeze this for all it's worth then to the top of this route.

FA: Ben Cossey, 2006

36
29 Mr Invisible Sport 16m

FA: Alan Pryce, 2009

37
26 * You Did it Again Sport 20m

If 'Super Weak' is too busy, head around the corner to this less travelled sport adventure. A bouldery start leads to some interesting easier climbing and time for quiet reflection. Start as for 'Some Kind of Bliss' and go left at the 2nd or 3rd bolt.

FA: Justin Clark, 1997

39
31 *** Some Kind of Bliss Sport 20m

Another early classic. Enjoy. A few long draws will be handy.

FA: Rob LeBreton, 1997

40
31 ** Lightyears Sport 35m

A nice long excursion, some say easier than 'Some Kind of Bliss', some say harder. Great rock and position all the same.

Start: Start as for 'Some Kind of Bliss', go right after the 1st bulge.

FA: Lee Cossey, 2001

41
30 Bullseye Sport 30m

FA: Andy Richardson, 2010

42

Classic jugging! Sustained climbing following a great line on great rock for 40 meters!

Start: As for 'Some Kind of Bliss'

FA: Andy Richardson, 2009

43

FA: Andy Richardson, 2010

44
33 Saturation Point Sport 45m

Start: As for 'Some Kind of Bliss', then traverse a loooooong way before weaving up the wall above. A mission.

FA: Lee Cossey, 2009