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Description:© (Ashy)

Start 25m right of In Harm's Way at the boulders just before the access ledge becomes alarmingly narrow, slopey and exposed. 1. 30m (25) Rebolted (2006). All U bolts. Wonderful climbing up the orange face to a small belay ledge with a 3 ringbolt belay. The top is a little runout, most people just clip the bolts but you can also place med cams if you wish. 2. 30m (19) This pitch drifts right up the good looking wall on very old carrots, and requires 10+ bolt plates and a rebolt. The ringbolts above and slightly left of the first belay are not it - that's Gem Stone. A 2 ringbolt anchor is on the ledge 10m below the top, but is poorly positioned for lowering off because the rope grinds on sharp ironstone.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: John Smoothy

  • First Ascent: J. Smoothy & G. Bradbury, 1995


Located in Access Ledge approx:
Lat/Long: -33.738131,150.278128

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

25 Community registered grade
Ben Jenga
25 JJ
25 Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas
25 Blue Mountains Climbing
25 ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 71%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux desperate tough hard stoked super fun cool nice good classy satisfying great exciting awesome fall runout feet rest fingers dynamic crazy weird flake face easy bad pockets cruisy jugs traverse crack

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