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Description:© (Ashy)

Start: Start 25m right of In Harm's Way at the boulders just before where the access ledge becomes alarmingly narrow, slopey and exposed.

  1. 30m (25) Rebolted (2006). All U bolts. Wonderful climbing up the orange face to a small belay ledge with a 3 ringbolt belay. The top is a little runout.

  2. 30m (19) This pitch is on carrots and requires 10+ bolt plates. A 2 ringbolt anchor is at the top.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: John Smoothy

  • First Ascent: J. Smoothy & G. Bradbury, 1995

Location:  

Located in Unity Area approx:
Long/Lat: 150.278128,-33.738131

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

25 Community registered grade
*** Ben Jenga
25 ** Blue Mountains Climbing
25 ** JJ
25 ** Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas
25 ** ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 70%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux tough hard stoked super fun cool nice good classy satisfying great awesome runout face easy rest cruisy jugs crack

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