- Height: 15m
- Ascents: 63
- Description:© (Ashy)
One of the classic test piece 26's in the mountains that keeps you working from start to finish. A burly, awkward move gets you off the deck and established onto the flake. The technical crux now follows which involves a gnarly fingery traverse to the right. Before you rest on your laurels, 'Super Weak', like all good climbs has the dreaded "linkage crux" lurking somewhere beyond the technical crux. Now make a quick dash for the mid height rest before the pump spits you off. Having sufficiently recovered, head straight up the wall past another tricky section where you must weigh up the pros and cons of clipping the dogging bolt. Just to put the icing on the cake, the finish requires an unnerving balency move to lean back and reach up to clip the anchors. Having put your heart and soul into ticking this absolute ripper you would think you deserved at least a 27 for the effort.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
First Ascent: Justin Clark, 1997
Located in Mr Wall approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|26||Community registered grade|
|26(S)||Blue Mountains Climbing|
|26 ***||ACA Route Register|
|26(S)||Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas|
Overall quality score: 87%
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