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Up slanting crack for 50m. Up to 10m pin traverse along clay band then up to roof below lookout. Through roof and up to lookout. If your into aid you cant get lost.

Start: Slanting crack in the middle of 'Main Wall'.

  1. -m Start between pillars, up groove and into the crack. Belay at obvious foot ledge. (23 or M3)

  2. -m Long slanting crack, with cruxy finish, to alcove ledge. (26 or M5)

  3. -m Up short corner to reposition belay to eyrie ledge above. (- 18 or M2)

  4. -m Up corner to traverse clay band on stacked pins then up via bolt and piton to ledge. Original bivy on right. Free variant avoids pin traverse by continuing up corner to top then exposed traverse to gain belay ledge. (- M6)

  5. -m Left past 2 bolts to crux getting into left facing corner/ramp. Easily up it to top then pull onto shaley ledge (25?- M6)

  6. -m Left onto large block then up through steepness, turn the lip and up final slab with lots of poor bolts.(24?- M5)

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Ewbank/Giles, 1969


Located in Main Wall approx:
Lat/Long: -33.732203,150.295620

Route Grade Citations

M6 R Community registered grade
26 M6 R ** ** ACA Route Register
M6 Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
M6 Blue Mountains Climbing

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 100%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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