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Summary

Mostly quite waterproof in the rain, although not the left side routes on the grey rock, nor the belay stances at both ends.

Description

Cross the creek as for Sunny Side, but turn left and walk 50m round the corner to this crag. Take care at the left end, e.g. clip the belayer in, the belay ledge gets quite narrow with a fair drop below.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
25 Darkwing Duck Sport 15m, 8

The far left hand edge of the cliff. Essentially a one sequence wonder with a tricky V4/V5 boulder problem crux in the middle. Clip the first bolt on "How Much is a Duck Worth" then move left and follow the line of bolts with increasing difficulty to the anchors.

Set by Paul Thomson, 2013

FA: Gene Gill, 2013

2

Scarily loose, should probably finish under the roof.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2011

3
19 Cygnet Sport 18m

Links Gosling into HMiaDW via the obvious leftward continuation and a few interesting moves in the middle. Climbs well.

FA: LinkUp - Paul Thomson, Jason Lammers, 2013

4
18 Gosling Sport 12m, 4

Shared first bolt with Duckling and then Left

FA: Jason Lammers and Paul Thomson, 2013

5
20 Duckling Sport 12m, 4

Shared first bolt with Gosling and then Right.

FA: Jason Lammers and Paul Thomson, 2013

6
23 Out For A Duck Sport 15m

Nice face to steeper hard glued up finish.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2011

7
24 *** Pluck-a-Duck Sport 15m, 10

Superb wall and steep headwall, the last mantle move could be a heart breaker. One of the best 24's at Bell !!

FA: Andrew Duckworth, 2011

8
26 *** Duck Walk Sport 18m

Sustained and thin technical climbing, one of the best 26's at bell. This route is the full package and should be on your too do list.

FA: Steve Grkovic, 2011

9
27 ** Quack Attack Sport 15m

Harder if your short

FA: Steve Grkovic, 2010

10
23 ** Scrooge McDuck Sport 25m

Start up Daffy (22) until back on the jugs after the thin leftward traverse crux, then follow line of bolts immediately leftwards through steepness and with increasing difficulty, finish back right with a tricky move on the headwall.

FFA: Paul Thomson, 2013

11
22 ** Daffy Sport 20m

Keeps going above the ledge up the little headwall. Good sustained climbing and steeper then it looks.

FA: Ben Lane, 2012

12
20 Pekin Duck Sport

Links the start of Daffy just before the crux into the top of Lucky Duck via the corner ramp. No extra bolts so expect to hold on tight.

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2014

13
22 ** Lucky Duck Sport 15m, 7

The obvious seam to steepness. A few different ways to do the crux, the directly up the seam is the 22 version.

Set by Jason Lammers, 2013

FA: Jason Lammers, 2013

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