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Description

This is an interesting little area originally developed by Chris Jones who put up the classic 'Hari Kari' in 1999. It was rediscovered 5 years later by Lee Cossey who immediatly saw the line that came to be 'Cirque de Soleil'. All the routes here share the same style of climbing that being entirly traditionaly protected. There is room for a few more routes, some have already been attempted ground-up and are cosidered established trad projects, all are obviously open. Before bolting new lines here consider whether it may have already been traditionally concieved.

© (Lee)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
23 R * Unknown Trad 20m

This was apparently climbed by Chris Jones in 1999. Like the other routes here it is all trad the difference being the rock is of slightly lesser quality, worthwhile all the same.

Start: Start as for 'Cirque de Soleil' but climb straight up arete all the way. It may be possible to step onto the route a little higher up.

FA: Chris Jones, 1999

2
28 R ** Cirque de Soleil Trad 30m

Headpointing comes to the mountains. First ascent was done using toprope rehearsal in order to clean and find the line. A ground-up ascent is possible just comitting.

Start: Start on arete at base off steep gully and at the begining of the left leading diagonal break.

FA: Lee Cossey, 2004

3
24 R ** Unsigned Artist Trad 45m

Good Quality trad climbing. Two vary different pitch's.

Start: Abseil 45m off southern arete to the very bottom. Start in crack just left of corner.

  1. 33m (24) Climb initial corner stepping right onto arete a few meters up. Onto ledge followed by tricky moves to gain good jam and jugs. Follow jugs up and to the right. Go straight up the wall, initially using the flake to the right. Thin gear follows. Belay on obvious ledge.

  2. 12m (23) Exciting little headwall. Climb 5m off the belay to the only gear on the pitch, proceed on to and over rooflet to some slopey moves. If you are unsure of your ability it may be worth scopeing and chalking this bit on the way down.

FA: Rowan Druce, Lee Cossey. alt., 2004

4
25 R *** Hari Kari Trad 15m

Classic grit style rock, climbing and protection. This has probably only seen one day of action since the first ascent, on this day however the fall from the crux was tested a few times, all walked away happy. A photograph of the FA was pulished claimimng it to be in 'Western Australia', had it been correct and described it as being in the Blue Mountains, this route would have surely seen more attention.

Start: Start part way down the steep gully. Below the obvious shallow slopey layaway. Up to break and into the layaway, yes you have to leave that good foot hold.

FA: Chris Jones, 1999

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