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Description

Access gully with stairs.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
11 Ichabod Ichabod Trad 30m

Chimney.

Start: This and the next 4 routes are on the right side of the gully heading down.

FA: J.Lorinez,B.Blunt, 1974

2
20 Crow Sport 18m, 7

Thin face climbing on very slight over-hanging wall to break then up. No bridging on the other route. Start is the crux. 7 RBs to anchors. Bold "old skool 80's" climbing on fair rock with potential for long falls.

FA: W.Moon,B.Cameron, 1980

3
19 Paragon Trad 23m

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young,G.Hill, 1980

4
15 Holy Catfish Trad 20m

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young,K.Brown, 1980

5
20 * Tex Arcana Trad 15m

FA: J.Smoothy,C.Martin, 1984

6
21 * Hullaballoo Sport 15m

Brackets to lower offs

FA: Mort-Short Team

7
21 Micron Trad 13m

Start: This and the next few routes start from the track on the left side of the gully coming down.

FA: D.Grey, 1986

8
9 Hollow Echo Trad 15m

FA: B.Blunt,J.Lorinez, 1974

9
22 Grey Power Trad 12m

FA: D.Grey, 1986

10
12 Second Echo Trad 18m

FA: B.Blunt, 1974

11
15 Echo Point Trad 20m

FA: A.Penney,J.Smoothy, 1982

12
22 R Blonde at Both Ends Trad 17m

FA: C.Cuthbertson, 1980

13
18 Resonance Mixed 20m, 1

FA: J.Smoothy, 1979

14
19 Tintinnabulation Trad 20m

FA: J.Smoothy,A.Penney, 1984

15
19 Ablutions Trad 25m

FA: J.Smoothy,A.Penney, 1979

16
18 Misjudgement Trad 27m

The blunt arete at the base of the gully.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1983

17
15 CC Rider Trad 9m

On the Block opposite 'Misjudgement'.

FA: B.Turk, 1983

18
22 Safety in Numbers Trad 25m

FA: G.James,D.Grey, 1985

19
14 ** The Obituary Trad 30m

Corner crack. popular.

FA: B.Blunt,J.Lorinez, 1974

20
20 *** Atomic Punk Trad 25m

Face to the right of O.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1983

21
21 * Oblivious Trad 20m

Start up AP and head up arete on hangers and gear to lower offs.

FA: G. Sort, P.Mort

22
20 X Oblivion Trad 30m

Quite a serious lead. Even Mikl cant remember how or why he did it or where it finishes!

Start: As for AP, then traverse right around prow and up slab with very little gear! Has a varient start to the right of the choss (S.Moon) which may keep going up the arete - carrots - or may not? Too many drugs in those days!

FA: M.Law,.Penney,J.Smoothy, 1978

23
22 Oblivion Variant Start Unknown 20m
24
22 * Moss' Effort Trad 25m

Up and to the right of 'Oblivion'.

FA: S.Moon,J.Smoothy, 1983

25
22 Confessions of a Wannabe Sport 15m, 5

Slabby climbing to third bolt and then up. Runout between 2nd and 3rd (be careful). 4 or 5 RBs to anchors I think?? Originally graded 24 in the 2010 Bluies Guide.

26
14 Refusal Trad 25m

Corner to the right of ME.

FA: B.Blunt,J.Lorinez, 1974

27
17 * The Knights of Nee Trad 20m

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1984

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