Details needed

This crag does not have approach information!

Could you describe the approach to this crag?

If you can help provide a better quality resource for the climbing community then please click 'Edit this crag' button near the top of the page.


Access gully with stairs.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
11 Ichabod Ichabod Trad 30m


Start: This and the next 4 routes are on the right side of the gully heading down.

FA: J.Lorinez & B.Blunt, 1974

20 Crow Sport 18m, 7

Thin face climbing on very slight over-hanging wall to break then up. No bridging on the other route. Start is the crux. 7 RBs to anchors. Bold "old skool 80's" climbing on fair rock with potential for long falls.

FA: W.Moon & B.Cameron, 1980

19 Paragon Trad 23m

FA: A.Prehn, R.Young & G.Hill, 1980

15 Holy Catfish Trad 20m

FA: A.Prehn, R.Young & K.Brown, 1980

20 * Tex Arcana Trad 15m

FA: J.Smoothy & C.Martin, 1984

21 * Hullaballoo Sport 15m

Brackets to lower offs

FA: Mort-Short Team

21 Micron Trad 13m

Start: This and the next few routes start from the track on the left side of the gully coming down.

FA: D.Grey, 1986

9 Hollow Echo Trad 15m

FA: B.Blunt & J.Lorinez, 1974

22 Grey Power Trad 12m

FA: D.Grey, 1986

12 Second Echo Trad 18m

FA: B.Blunt, 1974

15 Echo Point Trad 20m

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1982

22 R Blonde at Both Ends Trad 17m

FA: C.Cuthbertson, 1980

18 Resonance Mixed 20m, 1

FA: J.Smoothy, 1979

19 Tintinnabulation Trad 20m

FA: J.Smoothy & A.Penney, 1984

19 Ablutions Trad 25m

FA: J.Smoothy & A.Penney, 1979

18 Misjudgement Trad 27m

The blunt arete at the base of the gully.

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1983

15 CC Rider Trad 9m

On the Block opposite 'Misjudgement'.

FA: B.Turk, 1983

22 Safety in Numbers Trad 25m

FA: G.James & D.Grey, 1985

14 ** The Obituary Trad 30m

Corner crack. popular.

FA: B.Blunt & J.Lorinez, 1974

20 *** Atomic Punk Trad 25m

Face to the right of O.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1983

21 * Oblivious Trad 20m

Start up AP and head up arete on hangers and gear to lower offs.

FA: G. Sort & P.Mort

20 X Oblivion Trad 30m

Quite a serious lead. Even Mikl cant remember how or why he did it or where it finishes!

Start: As for AP, then traverse right around prow and up slab with very little gear! Has a varient start to the right of the choss (S.Moon) which may keep going up the arete - carrots - or may not? Too many drugs in those days!

FA: M.Law, .Penney & J.Smoothy, 1978

22 Oblivion Variant Start Unknown 20m
22 * Moss' Effort Trad 25m

Up and to the right of 'Oblivion'.

FA: S.Moon & J.Smoothy, 1983

22 Confessions of a Wannabe Sport 15m, 5

Slabby climbing to third bolt and then up. Runout between 2nd and 3rd (be careful). 4 or 5 RBs to anchors I think?? Originally graded 24 in the 2010 Bluies Guide.

14 Refusal Trad 25m

Corner to the right of ME.

FA: B.Blunt & J.Lorinez, 1974

17 * The Knights of Nee Trad 20m

FA: J.Smoothy & F.Lumsden, 1984

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.