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Description

Access gully with stairs.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
21 Micron Trad 13m

Start: This and the next few routes start from the track on the left side of the gully coming down.

FA: D.Grey, 1986

2
9 Hollow Echo Trad 15m

FA: B.Blunt & J.Lorinez, 1974

3
22 Grey Power Trad 12m

FA: D.Grey, 1986

4
12 Second Echo Trad 18m

FA: B.Blunt, 1974

5
15 Echo Point Trad 20m

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1982

6
22 R Blonde at Both Ends Trad 17m

FA: C.Cuthbertson, 1980

7
18 Resonance Mixed 20m, 1

FA: J.Smoothy, 1979

8
19 Tintinnabulation Trad 20m

FA: J.Smoothy & A.Penney, 1984

9
19 Ablutions Trad 25m

FA: J.Smoothy & A.Penney, 1979

10
18 Misjudgement Trad 27m

The blunt arete at the base of the gully.

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1983

Activity

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