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Description

Variety, a few short routes, classic sandstone slabbing and a bolted offwidth.

Access issues inherited from Bardens Lookout

* Temporary Access Change * Following the 2013 bushfires, the Collit's Crevasse and Lawson's Gully areas are no longer accessible from the main stairway entrance to Bardens (i.e., you can't turn right at the bottom of the stairs). Please respect the re-vegetation effort. Access to these areas is possible via Wentworth's Gully in Mt. York.

©

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
18 * Frisky Two Times Sport 20m

Scramble up corner/ramp as for Piping Hot, move left then directly up on left line of bolts.

FA: Unknown, 2012

2
23 * Under Pressure Sport 32m, 9

Thought-provoking slabbing. Much harder than the original grade of 21 since the crux hold broke off. Can get down on a 60m rope on stretch - tie a knot.

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1983

3
22 * Piping Hot Sport 35m

Start up Electric Blue (Trad gear), follow carrots until Electric Blue breaks right. Follow spaced rings upwards past plenty of technical slabbing to DBB.

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1983

4
19 *** Electric Blue Sport 35m

Takes some gear at the botton if you dont feel solid. Rebolted 2006. SSGIC's. A 'classic'.

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 2000

5
16 * Kooks Mixed 35m, 2

Crack (best to start up the blunt arete in front of the tree though) to offwidth. Has bolts and is worth the effort, old style offwidth just to test your nerves. Take big gear (#4 cams) if you have it - but you wont die without it! Lower offs!

FA: Rod Young & Ant Prehn

6

Straight up on rings to the right of Kooks. Has lost a few holds over the years.

FA: D.Taylor, 2000

7
20 * Electric Boogaloo Trad 35m

Actually the line marked in the 'Pircher/Carter' guide as 'Desire'.

Start: Right as for D. Hard start then into corner with bolts and gear to lower offs. 2). Up corner and crack above to belay. Walk off. The top section is all gear at about grade 15.

FA: G.Short & P.Mort, 1998

8
20 ** Desire Trad 35m

Start: Hard start then right across to choosy wall right of the corner. Up to top through easy stuff.

FA: A.Prehn, R.Young & M.Moorhead, 1983

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