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Routes described left to right, starting 10 left of the abseil in, about 20m right of CTW, facing in.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Start: The line of rings 10m right of the ladder.

FA: J.Clark & J.Kurko, 1995


FA: G.Miller, 1993

Fixed hangers - no carrots.

FA: V.Kondos, 1993

same start as sly drool

FA: G.Miller, 1993

Start 2m left of 'Mechanical Advantage'. up left to flake then through steepness to short corner/arete and up face to anchors

FA: S Hawkshaw, 2004

FA: V.Kondos, 1993

FA: L & C.Hale, 1999

Walk right (facing out) from bottom of ladder, through some bushes to a short wall to the right of a scrubby corner. Up the right wall past 2 carrots and trad gear.

FA: J Croker & R Croker, 2007

Start: This and the next 2 routes start on the ledge.

FA: M.Law, 1993

Start: On the ledge.

FA: M.Law, 1993

Start: On the ledge.

FA: M.Law, 1993

Start: Short arete to the right.

Walk over the hill and back down in gulley, or walk in from XXXX bouldering. Hard start and hard finish.

FA: Damo Taylor, 2006


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