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Summary

Some of the best 'old school' trad face climbing around! Oh, and an overly popular historic sport climb...

Description

Gently arcing wide steep face/slab with a prominent cairn below an equally prominent highway of rings.

Access issues inherited from Mount York

Various gullies may be closed for remediation work at various times. Echo gully currently closed - Autumn 2016.

Approach

Although it is possible and quite easy to rap in most people simply walk down. If you go down the main lookout gully turn right and follow track at base of cliff till you reach the wall. Or head down the roadway and down one of the eastern descent gullies, turn left and head around to the wall.

Where to stay

Mt York campground.

Ethic inherited from Mount York

Many and varied, please try to respect them all!

Retro-bolting has occurred several times over the years and is generally condemned and dealt with swiftly.

History

View timeline of historical ascents

The birth of sport climbing in the Blueies with the creation of the climb Exhibiton Wall on homemade fixed hangers by Penny and Smoothy. Has been rebooted but some originals remain for historical perusal. The response to this route came from Warwick Baird in the form of Age of Reason, a harder trad route that eschewed the need for artificial protection despite the crux being before the first gear at ~ 5m. Other bold trad or mixed routes quickly filled most of the gaps, including a girdle/traverse of most of the wall. Various routes have suffered from retro-bolting/removal over the years. Despite being very popular due to Exhibition Wall the rest of the wall was thankfully ignored by bolters and revealed new trad routes in 2016.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
21 R * Iron in the Soul Trad 30m

Was rebolted...once.

Up EW for a few FHs then straight up wall via (now) a single ring, and optional gear. Carrot belay over the top.

FA: G.Robertson & S.Knight, 1982

2
21 R * Cardboard Wilderness Trad 30m

"Stupid in fact! Like most of the routes on this wall they could do with a great deal of 'common sense' and a rebolt!" Sport climbers guidebook. "Champagne climbing.." Bold climbers comment.

Up EW for about 5 FHs then straight up the wall via some gear? and a bolt.

FA: R.Weigand, 1982

3
21 *** Exhibition Wall Sport 30m

Either a visionary piece of bolting, or the start of a slippery slope depending on perspective. Birth of sport climbing in the Blueies. Originally homemade fixed hangers, has since been rebolted on huge, shiny mass-manufactured fixed hangers!

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1979

4

The long awaited direct version of EW and who would have guessed that it would be a trad line ??

Start at EW, up and right as for DF via cam breaks and optional RPs. At third break head straight up to EW rest ledge (or lower right ledge for DF) and finish up EW with large RPs for pro. Belay over the top on medium cams.

Small cams, small wires, RPs/Offsets.

5
~ 23 E4 Demonstration Face TradProject 30m

A visionary piece of non-bolting to end the slippery slope...

Up to break then up and right on crimps to next break. Continue up slightly left of RTS third ring then up and right above AOR third bolt to small ledge. Up and right following subtle flake then up finishing left of tree.

Cams, RPs/Offsets, Small Wires. Belay off medium cams in wall over the top.

6
23 ** The Rage this Season Mixed 30m, 99

Very thin and technical. Used to have only 2 carrots. The line of rings beneath EW, joining Exhibition Wall halfway. The retrobolt still retains the need for small slcd's.

FA: R.Weigand, P & Greenwell, 1982

7
24 R ** The Age of Reason Trad 30m

Perhaps not...A most unsociable companion...Had been 'rebolted' then had the anchors removed. Take cams, wires and optional sling for a dubious thread. Thin, technical, unprotected start eases off eventually... Up and right to good gear in horizontal then up and left to breaks, then up finishing right of tree. Belay possible on small wall over the top.

FA: W.Baird, 1980

8
23 ** Sage Reason Trad 30m

Definitely perhaps ... A far more sociable version of the route. Alternate easier highball start to AoR via SF on right side of wall. Up as for SF to break and traverse left to good gear at left of break as for first gear on AoR. Continue up following breaks then up. Cams and wires. Optional sling.

Set by Macciza a.k.a. Macca & possibly others but unclaimed

9
23 R ** Freak Where Soft TradProject 30m

Start pretty much as for SF, on face left of SF mark avoiding fragile flake arête as much as possible. Get good first gear on left at first main break. At second break instead of heading R on bolts (SF) head up to cam pod and up following obvious crease. Climbing eases towards top. Either runout or various snall/medium RPs or similar and medium and small cams. Offsets in both may help.

Route and gear placements sussed out on abseil, and climb TR'd a number of times before finally being lead. Feel free to improve on style but be careful!

Note: 2015 BM guide topo is incorrect. The line shown for SF is actually this line.

10
23 ** Software Freak Trad 30m

Start on right edge of wall at mark.

Up face, avoiding rather fragile thin flake edge, to break and first gear then continue up to next break before heading right and up following carrots with good #000 C3's instead Up to to break and gear; old school opposed wires or even just a hex. Continue up using as many small brass nuts as you can place to avoid needing the top two bolts.

Has be done just on gear as described after gear inspection and rehearsal, but feel free to improve on this. Bolts are in fine condition (2016) and this climb should not ever be retro bolted.

Note: Topo in 2015 BM guide is wrong, see 2010 edition instead.

FA: R.Weigand, 1982

FFA: Macciza a.k.a. Macca, 2016

11
24 ** The Age of Rubber Trad 30m

Start as for SF, marked. Up to traverse then left across wall passing AoR to bolt then up to fixed hanger then bolt and traverse L to EW rest ledge and finish up EW.

FA: M.Stacey, 1988

12
23 R *** Rubbery Reasons TradProject 30m

Start as for Age of Rubber. Follow till bolts but ignore them, if possible, heading right to gear at third bolt and finishing up DF. Possible to use a high gear placement on Age of Reason to avoid runout. Cams, wires, RPs and optional sling.

13
15 Ferny Groove Trad 30m

Choss corner to arete, right side of the wall.

FA: B.Blunt & J.Lorinez, 1974

14
17 * REM state ruminations Mixed 25m, 8

start on the arete below Ferny Groove up arete past 2 bolts, then up the steep bit of Ferny Groove (cams). step left and up arete past bolts to lower off

FA: j smoothy g.short, 2012

15
22 * Crystal Palace Trad 60m

Traverse in the best of British tradition!

Start: As for RG then left and left again!

FA: P.Greenwell & R.Weigand, 1982

16
13 Trend Setters Bail Trad 20m

Dirty crack to rooflet.

Start: About 5m up Obstacle Course 'Gully' on the left side.

FA: P.Rees, 1984

17
23 R Green Slimy Death Trad 20m

Exactly!

Start: 7m LEFT of TDotSPF.

FA: Prehn, Kuehn, Donald & Smoothy, 1988

18

Not well(?) protected!

Start: 20m right of the gully. Up an a ledge 20m above the track.

FA: R.Vining & W.Blunt, 1974

19
13 R ** Yellow Peril Trad 20m

An apt name! Apparently better than it looks.

Start: Corner 2m right.

FA: W.Blunt & W.Williams, 1974

20
16 Vulgate Trad 10m

Start: Up the corner for 10m. 5m right of previous climb.

FA: B Blunt, McTackett & R Vining

21
18 ** Yank Ya Doodle Trad 12m

Layback an off width.

Start: 2m right again.

FA: R.Vining & G.Harrison, 1974

22
15 Pussy Footin' Trad 30m

Still off the ledge.

Start: 1m right again.

FA: W.Williams, R.Vining & Mr(?)Wilson, 1974

23
9 R Rusty Bucket Trad 20m

Start: 27m right of PF. Chimney - chockstones and a bucket that was rusty in 1974!

FA: P.Mara & W.Blunt, 1974

24
10 Nutmeg Trad 20m

Chimney!

Start: 4m right again.

FA: W.Blunt, Mr(?)Thornton & Mr(?)Thompson, 1974

25

Aided by Glenn Robbins, had numerous free attempts over a 5 year period.

Start: 17m right.Marked.

FA: W.Baird & D.Wagland, 1981

26
13 Sand Castle Trad 30m

"Only Joe could ever concieve a route up here. A fine companion to 'Apollo' at 'Sublime Point'. Dont forget to take a plastic bucket and shovel, you'll need them."

Start: As for TMO.

FA: J.Friend, 1974

27
11 Grub Trad 25m

Ramble up to ledge, across to corner and up.

Start: 20m right of TMO, right side of the sandy cave.

FA: P.Mara & W.Blunt, 1974

28
29

Start: 38m right again. Wide crack. Name spells it out for you!

FA: R.Vining & W.Williams, 1974

30
13 Bristletail Trad 30m

Another Joe Friend classic - take care!

Start: As for SHSB.

FA: J.Friend, 1974

31
21 * Knights Effort Trad 20m

As for SHSB to traverse line of B. Ignore traverse, up wall past bolt to top.

Start: As for SHSB.

FA: S.Knight, 1982

32
17 R * Syriac Trad 10m

The overhanging offwidth 20m to the left of the 'nothings'. Marked. Big nuts and jammed helmets!

FA: B.Blunt, W.Williams & R.Vining, 1974

Activity

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