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Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Stairway to Bevan

FA: , 2004

25
Unknown 15m
2 Blackfellas Barkoo

FA: B.Blunt,J.Lorinez, 1974

14
Trad 25m
3 Pen Point Paranoia

Start as for horror show but follow the obvious line up and to the left toward blackfella barkoo, ascending to the right of the tree. The route is full of leaf litter from the tree on up. For TR access from the first lookout when leaving the carpark.

FA: G.Robins,J.Boyton, 1985

16
Trad 25m
4 Horror Show

FA: J.Friend,K.Bell, 1974

20
Trad 25m
5 ** Buddha and the Chocolate Box

FA: S.Camps,Wilson,Smoothy, 1986

23
Sport 25m
6 * Engineering Feats of the 80s

FA: R.Weigand,G,Clark, 1983

22
Trad 25m
7 * Pain In The Arse

Technical. Same start as Pain Of Glass, after 4th bolt go straight up then traverse back R to 6th bolt of Pain Of Glass

FA: A Farquhar, M Baker, 2010

23
Sport 25m
8 ** Pain Of Glass

Technical and thin! Take 8 brackets, tops out.

FA: M Baker, A Farquhar, 2012

27
Sport 25m
9 Macho Man

T the left of the arete before the 'Exhibition Wall'.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1982

23
Trad 30m
10 The Fellowship of Bevan

Serious direct start to Crystal Palace starting below arete of Iron in the Soul

FA: , 2004

23
Unknown 25m
11 * Iron in the Soul

Was rebolted...once.

FA: G.Robertson,S.Knight, 1982

21 R
Trad 30m
12 * Cardboard Wilderness

Stupid in fact! Like most of the routes on this wall they could do with a great deal of 'common sense' and a rebolt!

FA: R.Weigand, 1982

21 R
Trad 30m
13 *** Exhibition Wall

Has been rebolted on huge, shiny fixed hangers!

FA: A.Penney,J.Smoothy, 1979

21
Sport 30m
14 ** The Rage this Season

Take small TCU's.

FA: R.Weigand,P,Greenwell, 1982

23 R
Trad 30m
15 ** The Age of Reason

Perhaps not...A most unsociable companion...Had been 'rebolted' then had the anchors removed. Take cams and a sling for a dubious thread.

FA: W.Baird, 1980

24 R
Trad 30m
16 ** Software Freak

FA: R.Weigand, 1982

23
Trad 30m
17 ** The Age of Rubber

FA: M.Stacey, 1988

24 R
Trad 30m
18 Ferny Groove

Choss corner to arete, right side of the wall.

FA: B.Blunt,J.Lorinez, 1974

15
Trad 30m
19 REM state ruminations

start on the arete below Ferny Groove up arete past 2 bolts, then up the steep bit of Ferny Groove (cams). step left and up arete past bolts to lower off

FA: j smoothy g.short, 2012

17
Mixed 25m , 8
20 * Crystal Palace

Traverse in the best of British tradition!

Start: As for RG then left and left again!

FA: P.Greenwell,R.Weigand, 1982

22
Trad 60m
21 Trend Setters Bail

Dirty crack to rooflet.

Start: About 5m up Obstacle Course 'Gully' on the left side.

FA: P.Rees, 1984

13
Trad 20m
22 Green Slimy Death

Exactly!

Start: 7m LEFT of TDotSPF.

FA: Prehn,Kuehn,Donald,Smoothy, 1988

23 R
Trad 20m
23 * The Dance of the Sugar Plum Fary

Not well(?) protected!

Start: 20m right of the gully. Up an a ledge 20m above the track.

FA: R.Vining,W.Blunt, 1974

17 R
Trad 25m
24 Yellow Peril

An apt name! Apparently better than it looks.

Start: Corner 2m right.

FA: W.Blunt,W.Williams, 1974

13 R
Trad 20m
25 Vulgate

Start: Up the corner for 10m. 5m right of previous climb.

FA: B Blunt, McTackett, R Vining,

16
Trad 10m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
26 * Yank Ya Doodle

Layback an off width.

Start: 2m right again.

FA: R.Vining,G.Harrison, 1974

18
Trad 12m
27 Pussy Footin'

Still off the ledge.

Start: 1m right again.

FA: W.Williams,R.Vining,Mr(?)Wilson, 1974

15
Trad 30m
28 Rusty Bucket

Start: 27m right of PF. Chimney - chockstones and a bucket that was rusty in 1974!

FA: P.Mara,W.Blunt, 1974

9 R
Trad 20m
29 Nutmeg

Chimney!

Start: 4m right again.

FA: W.Blunt,Mr(?)Thornton,Mr(?)Thompson, 1974

10
Trad 20m
30 * The Monster Off Width

Aided by Glenn Robbins, had numerous free attempts over a 5 year period.

Start: 17m right.Marked.

FA: W.Baird,D.Wagland, 1981

21
Trad 30m
31 Sand Castle

"Only Joe could ever concieve a route up here. A fine companion to 'Apollo' at 'Sublime Point'. Dont forget to take a plastic bucket and shovel, you'll need them."

Start: As for TMO.

FA: J.Friend, 1974

13
Trad 30m
32 Grub

Ramble up to ledge, across to corner and up.

Start: 20m right of TMO, right side of the sandy cave.

FA: P.Mara,W.Blunt, 1974

11
Trad 25m
33 Grub Direct Finish
14
Unknown
34 Subterranean Homesick Blues

Start: 38m right again. Wide crack. Name spells it out for you!

FA: R.Vining,W.Williams, 1974

14
Trad 20m
35 Bristletail

Another Joe Friend classic - take care!

Start: As for SHSB.

FA: J.Friend, 1974

13
Trad 30m
36 Knights Effort

As for SHSB to traverse line of B. Ignore traverse, up wall past bolt to top.

Start: As for SHSB.

FA: S.Knight, 1982

21
Trad 20m
37 * Syriac

The overhanging offwidth 20m to the left of the 'nothings'. Marked. Big nuts and jammed helmets!

FA: B.Blunt,W.Williams,R.Vining, 1974

17 R
Trad 10m

Open trips

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