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Some of the best 'old school' trad face climbing around! Oh, and an overly popular historic sport climb...


Gently arcing wide steep face/slab with a prominent cairn below an equally prominent highway of rings.

Access issues inherited from Mount York

Various gullies may be closed for remediation work at various times. Echo gully currently closed - Autumn 2016.


Although it is possible and quite easy to rap in most people simply walk down. If you go down the main lookout gully turn right and follow track at base of cliff till you reach the wall. Or head down the roadway and down one of the eastern descent gullies, turn left and head around to the wall.

Where to stay

Mt York campground.

Ethic inherited from Mount York

Many and varied, please try to respect them all!

Retro-bolting has occurred several times over the years and is generally condemned and dealt with swiftly.


View historical timeline

The birth of sport climbing in the Blueies with the creation of the climb Exhibiton Wall on homemade fixed hangers by Penny and Smoothy. Has been rebooted but some originals remain for historical perusal. The response to this route came from Warwick Baird in the form of Age of Reason, a harder trad route that eschewed the need for artificial protection despite the crux being before the first gear at ~ 5m. Other bold trad or mixed routes quickly filled most of the gaps, including a girdle/traverse of most of the wall. Various routes have suffered from retro-bolting/removal over the years. Despite being very popular due to Exhibition Wall the rest of the wall was thankfully ignored by bolters and revealed new trad routes in 2016.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Was rebolted...once.

Up EW for about 5 FHs then straight up wall via a single ring, and optional gear. Carrot belay over the top.

FA: G.Robertson & S.Knight, 1982

"Stupid in fact! Like most of the routes on this wall they could do with a great deal of 'common sense' and a rebolt!" Sport climbers guidebook. "Champagne climbing.." Bold climbers comment.

Up EW for a bout 7 FHs then straight up the wall via some gear? and a bolt.

FA: R.Weigand, 1982

Either a visionary piece of bolting, or the start of a slippery slope depending on perspective. Birth of sport climbing in the Blueies. Originally homemade fixed hangers, has since been rebolted on huge, shiny mass-manufactured fixed hangers!

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1979

The long awaited direct version of EW and who would have guessed that it would be a trad line ??

Start at EW, up and right as for DF via cam breaks and optional RPs. At third break head straight up to EW rest ledge (or lower right ledge for DF) and finish up EW with large RPs for pro. Belay over the top on medium cams.

Small cams, small wires, RPs/Offsets.

A visionary piece of non-bolting to end the slippery slope...

Up to break then up and right on crimps to next break. Continue up slightly left of RTS third ring then up and right above AOR third bolt to small ledge. Up and right following subtle flake then up finishing left of tree.

Cams, RPs/Offsets, Small Wires. Belay off medium cams in wall over the top.

Very thin and technical. Used to have only 2 carrots. The line of rings beneath EW, joining Exhibition Wall halfway. The retrobolt still retains the need for small slcd's.

FA: R.Weigand, P & Greenwell, 1982

Perhaps not...A most unsociable companion...Had been 'rebolted' then had the anchors removed. Take cams, wires and optional sling for a dubious thread. Thin, technical, unprotected start eases off eventually... Up and right to good gear in horizontal then up and left to breaks, then up finishing right of tree. Belay possible on small wall over the top.

FA: W.Baird, 1980

Definitely perhaps ... A far more sociable version of the route. Alternate easier highball start to AoR via SF on right side of wall. Up as for SF to break and traverse left to good gear at left of break as for first gear on AoR. Continue up following breaks then up. Cams and wires. Optional sling.

Set by Macciza a.k.a. Macca & possibly others but unclaimed

Start pretty much as for SF, on face left of SF mark avoiding fragile flake arête as much as possible. Get good first gear on left at first main break. At second break instead of heading R on bolts (SF) head up to cam pod and up following obvious crease. Climbing eases towards top. Either runout or various snall/medium RPs or similar and medium and small cams. Offsets in both may help.

Route and gear placements sussed out on abseil, and climb TR'd a number of times before finally being lead. Feel free to improve on style but be careful!

Note: 2015 BM guide topo is incorrect. The line shown for SF is actually this line.

Start on right edge of wall at mark.

Up face, avoiding rather fragile thin flake edge, to break and first gear then continue up to next break before heading right and up following carrots with good #000 C3's instead Up to to break and gear; old school opposed wires or even just a hex. Continue up using as many small brass nuts as you can place to avoid needing the top two bolts.

Has be done just on gear as described after gear inspection and rehearsal, but feel free to improve on this. Bolts are in fine condition (2016) and this climb should not ever be retro bolted.

Note: Topo in 2015 BM guide is wrong, see 2010 edition instead.

FA: R.Weigand, 1982

FFA: Macciza a.k.a. Macca, 6 May 2016

Start as for SF, marked. Up to traverse then left across wall passing AoR to bolt then up to fixed hanger then bolt and traverse L to EW rest ledge and finish up EW.

FA: M.Stacey, 1988

Start as for Age of Rubber. Follow till bolts but ignore them, if possible, heading right to gear at third bolt and finishing up DF. Possible to use a high gear placement on Age of Reason to avoid runout. Cams, wires, RPs and optional sling.

Choss corner to arete, right side of the wall.

FA: B.Blunt & J.Lorinez, 1974

start on the arete below Ferny Groove up arete past 2 bolts, then up the steep bit of Ferny Groove (cams). step left and up arete past bolts to lower off

FA: j smoothy g.short, Jun 2012

Traverse in the best of British tradition!

Start: As for RG then left and left again!

FA: P.Greenwell & R.Weigand, 1982

Dirty crack to rooflet.

Start: About 5m up Obstacle Course 'Gully' on the left side.

FA: P.Rees, 1984


Start: 7m LEFT of TDotSPF.

FA: Prehn, Kuehn, Donald & Smoothy, 1988

Not well(?) protected!

Start: 20m right of the gully. Up an a ledge 20m above the track.

FA: R.Vining & W.Blunt, 1974

An apt name! Apparently better than it looks.

Start: Corner 2m right.

FA: W.Blunt & W.Williams, 1974

Start: Up the corner for 10m. 5m right of previous climb.

FA: B Blunt, McTackett & R Vining

Layback an off width.

Start: 2m right again.

FA: R.Vining & G.Harrison, 1974

Still off the ledge.

Start: 1m right again.

FA: W.Williams, R.Vining & Mr(?)Wilson, 1974

Start: 27m right of PF. Chimney - chockstones and a bucket that was rusty in 1974!

FA: P.Mara & W.Blunt, 1974


Start: 4m right again.

FA: W.Blunt, Mr(?)Thornton & Mr(?)Thompson, 1974

Aided by Glenn Robbins, had numerous free attempts over a 5 year period.

Start: 17m right.Marked.

FA: W.Baird & D.Wagland, 1981

"Only Joe could ever concieve a route up here. A fine companion to 'Apollo' at 'Sublime Point'. Dont forget to take a plastic bucket and shovel, you'll need them."

Start: As for TMO.

FA: J.Friend, 1974

Ramble up to ledge, across to corner and up.

Start: 20m right of TMO, right side of the sandy cave.

FA: P.Mara & W.Blunt, 1974

Start: 38m right again. Wide crack. Name spells it out for you!

FA: R.Vining & W.Williams, 1974

Another Joe Friend classic - take care!

Start: As for SHSB.

FA: J.Friend, 1974

As for SHSB to traverse line of B. Ignore traverse, up wall past bolt to top.

Start: As for SHSB.

FA: S.Knight, 1982

The overhanging offwidth 20m to the left of the 'nothings'. Marked. Big nuts and jammed helmets!

FA: B.Blunt, W.Williams & R.Vining, 1974


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