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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
15 Saturdays Problems Unknown 8m
3
21 * Fargoid Sport 20m

FA: A.Prehn,J.Smoothy, 1980

4
24 This Years Model Trad 20m

Once the hardest route at the crag.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1980

5

FA: G.James, 1980

6
18 Gibberish Trad 40m

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1980

7
22 * Jargon Trad 30m

Flake and arete

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1980

8
23 Serious Moonlight Trad 25m

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1985

9
project Project 1 Unknown
10

Start: On the right side of the gully coming down.

FA: M.Grey, 1981

11
21 Vogon Poetry Trad 23m

Start: Right side of the gully.

12
10 PTJ Trad 15m

Start: Left side of the gully coming down.

13
12 Flap Trad 25m

Start: The next few routes are heavily used by commercial operators!

FA: B.Blunt,J.Lorinez, 1974

14
15 Rice Bubbles Trad 18m

FA: B.Donaldson, 1983

15
12 Snap Trad 30m

FA: R.Vining, 1974

16
16 * Crackle Trad 30m

FA: W.Williams,L.Thompson, 1974

17
13 R Pop Trad 30m

FA: J.Lorinez, 1974

18
12 Orphan Annie Unknown 12m
19
15 Uncle Tom Trad 35m

Vegetated corner crack

FA: W.Williams,H.Luxford, 1976

20
24 * Bowie Sux Trad 25m

Start: Marked.

FA: G.Hill,S.Bullen, 1983

21
21 * Sensible Shoes Trad 25m

FA: G.Bradbury, 1980

22
21 * Red Robbin Direct Start Unknown 15m
23
16 * Red Robbin Trad 30m

Has a direct start at 21!?

FA: R.Vining, 1974

24
21 Ykikamookow Trad 25m

FA: J.Smoothy, 2000

25
19 *** Auntie Jack Trad 27m

Lower-offs added and chopped

FA: Ross Vining + ?

26
19 ** Zipper Trad 25m

FA: G.Loins, 1986

27
23 ** Disjointed Trad 25m

very hard start

FA: R.Weigand, S.Knight, 1982

28

Lower-offs added and chopped

FA: A. Penny, 1988

29
15 * Peppercorn Trad 30m

Cliff splitter!! Gear up accordingly.

FA: JSP/FR

30
16 Butterfly Trad 40m

Traverse.

FA: R.Vining,B.Blunt, 1974

31
22 R Left Lane Ends Trad 25m

FA: G.Clark, 1983

32
17 ** Viparete Trad 30m

Take 0.5 & 4 Friend.

FA: R.Vining,W.Williams,J.Lorinez, 1974

33
18 Rattler Trad 25m

FA: B.Evans,S.Bunton,G.de Lacy, 1984

34
17 Porkypine Trad 30m

FA: A.Prehn,G.Hill,J.Muir, 1980

35
21 Law & Disorder Trad 25m

FA: S.Knight,R.Weigand,J.Smoothy, 1982

36
24 Killing Joke Trad 25m

FA: S.Bullen, 1984

37
10 Lishenbak Trad 30m

Get here early for this one.

FA: J Lorinez, W Williams, B Blunt

39
23 ** Radios Appear Mixed 30m, 3

Great climbing the whole way but barely adequate trad gear in the first half.

Start: Start 1m R of Lishenback.

FA: G.Weigand,J.Smoothy,S.Knight, 1982

40
23 * Crystal Set Trad 20m

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1983

41
15 R Birds Nest Trad 30m

Good...but not much gear where you need it.

FA: R.Vining,W.Williams,J.Lorinez, 1974

42
21 Spangled Drongo Mixed 30m, 5

Rebolted circa 2012. Thin face past 4 or 5 stainless carrot bolts plus a cam, to loweroffs. Start 1.5m R of 'Birds Nest'.

FA: J.Smoothy,A.Penney, 1984

43
18 R * Sparrow Mixed 30m, 4

Rebolted. Route is now mixed and on carrots. Also equipped with lower-offs. Rebolted and retro bolted by Glenn Short with permission of first ascen team.

FA: R.Vining, 1974

44

A much more sociable interpretation of the wall. Very pleasant indeed! Up wall to loweroffs. Take 4 bolt brackets and medium cams.

Start: Start 4m Right of 'Sparrow'.

FA: J. Anderson,C O'Leary, 2004

45
17 Carrots For Brains Unknown 15m

FA: unknown

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