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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route
21 * Fargoid Sport 20m

FA: A.Prehn & J.Smoothy, 1980

24 This Years Model Trad 20m

Once the hardest route at the crag.

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1980


FA: G.James, 1980

18 Gibberish Trad 40m

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1980

22 * Jargon Trad 30m

Flake and arete

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1980

23 Serious Moonlight Trad 25m

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1985

project Project 1 Unknown

Start: On the right side of the gully coming down. Hideous looking carrots.

FA: M.Grey, 1981

21 Vogon Poetry Trad 23m

Start: Right side of the gully.

10 PTJ Trad 15m

Left side of the gully coming down.

12 Flap Trad 25m

Start: To the right of PTJ, left of the arête. The next few routes are heavily used by commercial operators!

FA: B.Blunt & J.Lorinez, 1974

15 Rice Bubbles Trad 18m

Cruxy undercut start 5m L of the crack. A #5 camalot will help up high but its still not the safest lead.

FA: B.Donaldson, 1983

12 Snap Trad 30m

FA: R.Vining, 1974

16 Crackle Trad 30m

Has seen a few fatalities, and not a great choice if its at your limit because you have to fiddle to get gear in the middle of the hardest climbing to protect a runout. A #5 camalot will help up high. Belay off UBs near the tree roots and on the boulder, not off the tree.

FA: W.Williams & L.Thompson, 1974

13 R Pop Trad 30m

Up the crack as for Crackle then veer R under the roof. Dangerously underprotected through the middle section (...1 bolt here would turn this into one of the better routes at the grade). A #5 camalot helps up high.

FA: J.Lorinez, 1974

12 Orphan Annie Unknown 12m
15 Uncle Tom Trad 35m

Vegetated corner crack

FA: W.Williams & H.Luxford, 1976

24 * Bowie Sux Trad 25m

Start: Marked.

FA: G.Hill & S.Bullen, 1983

21 * Sensible Shoes Trad 25m

FA: G.Bradbury, 1980

21 * Red Robbin Direct Start Unknown 15m
16 * Red Robbin Trad 30m

Has a direct start at 21!?

FA: R.Vining, 1974

21 Ykikamookow Trad 25m

FA: J.Smoothy, 2000

19 *** Auntie Jack Mixed 27m, 1

Classic. Take a full rack with heaps of wires. Lower-offs were added, then chopped, and are still absent as at Oct 2015.

FA: Ross Vining + ?, 1974

19 ** Zipper Mixed 25m, 5

Start as for Aunty Jack then straight up past bolts (take brackets) & gear. Has a good independent finish despite what the guide says. Much more sustained than Aunty Jack.

FA: G.Loins, 1986

23 ** Disjointed Trad 25m

very hard start

FA: R.Weigand & S.Knight, 1982


Ringbolts just left of corner to lower-off's. Hard start, then steady going.

FA: A. Penny, 1988

15 * Peppercorn Trad 30m

Cliff splitter!! Gear up accordingly.


16 Butterfly Trad 40m


FA: R.Vining & B.Blunt, 1974

22 R Left Lane Ends Trad 25m

FA: G.Clark, 1983

17 ** Viparete Trad 30m

Pleasant arete. Most people start 1m R of the arête for a few metres, then move left. The gear is in some opinions "good, but spaced", but in others' opinions this route is quite dangerous to half height particularly now that the wire slots are getting worn thanks to the soft rock. Take a rack including a 4 Friend, and a bolt plate in case Rattler's top carrot looks tempting.

FA: R.Vining, W.Williams & J.Lorinez, 1974

18 Rattler Trad 25m

FA: B.Evans, S.Bunton & Lacy, 1984

17 Porkypine Trad 30m

FA: A.Prehn, G.Hill & J.Muir, 1980

21 Law & Disorder Trad 25m

FA: S.Knight, R.Weigand & J.Smoothy, 1982

24 Killing Joke Trad 25m

FA: S.Bullen, 1984

10 Lishenbak Trad 30m

Get here early for this one.

FA: J Lorinez, W Williams & B Blunt

23 ** Radios Appear Mixed 25m, 3

Great climbing the whole way but barely adequate trad gear in the first half.

Start: Start 1m R of Lishenback.

FA: G.Weigand, J.Smoothy & S.Knight, 1982

23 * Crystal Set Trad 20m

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1983

15 R Birds Nest Trad 25m

The attractive flakeline. Good...but not much gear where you need it.

FA: R.Vining, W.Williams & J.Lorinez, 1974

21 Spangled Drongo Mixed 20m, 5

Start 1.5m R of 'Birds Nest'. Thin face past about 5 stainless carrot bolts plus a cam, to loweroffs. The thin crux is unfortunately much harder than the rest of the route. Rebolted 2012.

FA: J.Smoothy & A.Penney, 1984

18 * Sparrow Mixed 18m, 4

This is one of the best routes in this section of wall. Sustained, interesting climbing, well protected on carrots and a couple of trad pieces to lower-offs. Easier than CCC.

FA: R.Vining, 1974


Start 4m Right of 'Sparrow'. Take 4 bolt brackets and medium cams.

FA: J. Anderson & C O'Leary, 2004

17 Carrots For Brains Unknown 15m

FA: unknown


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