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Description:© (PThomson)

Route descriptions can be found here: http://www.sydneyclimbing.com/xgo_glenbrook_gorge.html (Route Descriptions taken from 'Rockclimbs in the Lower Blue Mountains' (1994) by Harry Luxford and Bruce Cameron, and reproduced with permission by Peter Monks for Sydney Rockies.)

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 East of Eden

FA: T Williams, W Moon, 2000

19
Trad 30m
2 Jerks in Heaven

FA: T Williams, B Cameron, 2000

19
Trad 30m
3 Paradise

FA: B Cameron, M Chapman, 2000

17
Trad 25m
4 Puddin Puller

FA: B Cameron, R McMahon, 2000

18
Trad 25m
5 Fiddle

FA: B Cameron, F Moon, 2000

18
Trad 25m
6 Southern Cross

FA: E Truupold, et al., 2000

10
Trad 35m
7 Bonk

FA: W Moon, B Cameron, 2000

18
Trad 35m
8 Arc of a Diver

FA: T Williams, B Cameron, F Moon, 2000

21
Trad 35m
9 Abra Cadaver

FA: T Williams, F Moon, 2000

22
Trad 25m
10 Comes a Time

FA: B Cameron, F Moon, 2000

17
Trad 30m
11 Kevin's Corner
16
Trad 40m
12 Kevin's Wall

FA: K Westren, et al., 2000

12
Trad 40m
13 Good Old Days

FA: B Cameron, W Moon, 2000

21
Trad 25m
14 Fleet Street

FA: T Williams, C Munday, 2000

19
Trad 10m
15 Dispute Chimney
14
Trad 25m
16 Into the Void

FA: S Moon, 2000

22
Trad 15m
17 ** Annelid (Kippax) Crack

FA: Kippax, Rostrum,

11
Unknown 40m
18 Summer of 81

FA: F Moon, W Moon, 2000

16
Trad 17m
19 Humdinger

FA: B Cameron, W Moon, F Moon, 2000

16
Trad 30m
20 Midnight Frightening

FA: W Moon, B Cameron, 2000

22
Trad 10m
21 Gormenghast

FA: T Williams, S Moon, 2000

18
Trad 36m
22 Cancer

FA: D Roots, B Allen, 2000

14
Trad 20m
23 Pioneers Crack
14
Trad 15m
24 Remote Reaches

FA: T Williams, A Teague, 2000

18
Trad 45m
25 Purple Maze

FA: W Moon, B Moon, 2000

15
Trad 45m
26 Ripsnorta

FA: T Williams, B Cameron, 2000

17
Trad 30m
27 El Gorge

FFA: C Bennet, R Le Breton, A Mason,

FA: F Moon, B Cameron, 1979

16
Trad 45m
28 Kippax Slab

FA: R Le Breton, M Klien, 2000

19
Trad 25m
29 Eric Bloodaxe

FA: T Williams, L Closs, 2000

18
Trad 60m
30 Conjugation Ledge

FA: W Moon, G Robbins, 2000

13
Trad 25m
31 Top Secret

FA: B Cameron, W Moon, 2000

21
Trad 25m
32 Tangerine Dream

FA: T Williams, B Cameron, 2000

18
Trad 25m
33 The Bear

FA: W Moon, B Cameron, 2000

21
Trad 30m
34 Cancer Variant

FA: Rob LeBreton, 2000

15
Trad 20m
35 Cruel Heart

FA: T Williams, B Cameron, 2000

19
Trad 30m
36 Sepulchre Start to Gormenghast

FA: T Williams, R McMahon, 2000

18
Trad 10m
37 Annelid Crack

A true classic. Sometimes called Kippax Crack. This climb actually starts on the Lower Cliffline, with the second pitch being in between 'Into the Void' and 'Purple Maze' on the 'Main Wall'. See the route diagram below for more info.

FA: R Kippax, D Rostrum, 2000

11
Trad 40m
38 Pioneers Arete

FA: W Moon, B Cameron, 2000

14
Trad 15m
39 Sang Froid

FA: T Williams, S McDowell, 2000

21
Trad 50m
40 Oobie Doobie

FA: B Cameron, T Williams, 2000

22
Trad 25m
41 Infra Dig

FA: T Williams, S Bunton, 2000

23
Trad 38m
42 Suspicions

FA: B Cameron, T Williams, 2000

19
Trad 25m
43 Gunhilda

FA: T Williams, A Teague, 2000

18
Trad 55m
44 Marathon Man
14
Trad 100m
45 Pusskins

FA: T Williams, B Cameron, 2000

20
Trad 25m
46 Pigs on the Wing

FA: W Moon, P Chalkley, 2000

15
Trad 25m
47 Top Secret Direct Start

FA: W Moon, B Cameron, 2000

21
Trad 5m
48 Camoon Corner

FA: F Moon, B Cameron, 2000

17
Trad 35m
49 Wanton Winging

FA: T Williams, S McDowell, 2000

18
Trad 60m