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Description:

Broken system with corner, chimneys and crack, a proper 1956 adventure. "Probably the best climb in the gorge" quoth Bryden Allen in his 1963 guide, but Things Have Moved On, particularly the notion of what constitutes grade 12.

Start: At a pinch between boulders with the small brass Jack Murphy plaque -33.78141,150.63045.

Route, pitches and amount of lichen, loose grit and looser blocks notional:

  1. 30m Up the broken corners and ledges via bushes to tree on ledge.

  2. 25m (crux) Extract body from short V chimney topped by chockstone into either burly layback corner or 80-150mm wall crack.

  3. 25m More burly laybacking up chimney/corner with rounded edges.

  4. 25m Either straight up more of same, right up grey slab or walk off left.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: R Kippax, D Roots & T McIntee, 1956

Location:  

Located in South-Eastern Wall approx:
Lat/Long: -33.780940,150.631013

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

12 Community registered grade
12 ACA Route Register
12 private

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 39%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid crux hard good great classic awesome crap chimney vertical offwidth thrutchy

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Check out what is happening on Jack Murphy's Climb (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.