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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route
20 Oh! Shut up! Sport 15m

WARNING, top left anchor is loose!

FA: D.Geiger, 2002

25 ** Welcome To The Borzoi Sport 15m, 8

First route you come to on the main wall.

FA: M Baker & A Farquhar, 2013

25 * Slave to the Rhythm Sport 20m

Rebolted 2004

FA: M. Baker & J. Jobling, 1991

25 ** Codein Sport 15m

25 in new guide

FA: G.Henderson, 2002

24 ** Mogambo Sport 18m

Rebolted 2004. 1st ring is loose, and so are the next few holds.

FA: M. Baker & W. Baird, 1991

26 *** Grace Sport 20m

Rebolted 2004. If it could get more stars it would! WARNING, 1st ring is loose

Start: Start just left of the arete.

FA: J. Smoothy., 1988

project Project (Glen) Unknown

Requires the odd BP.

FA: A.Farquar, 1998

23 * Will it Stay? Sport 15m

Before doing this be aware that 2 bolts are in a large flake of questionable permanence.

FA: M.Spring, 1999

23 * The Jam Nazi Sport 12m

FA: D.Taylor, 1999

project Open Project Unknown
25 ** The Missing Man Sport 15m

Right of vegetated corner. Fixed hangers to chain.

FA: F.Yule, 1995

26 ** Introversion Sport 15m

Start: 2m right of MM.Finishes at MM chain.

FA: G.Henderson, 2000

25 * Glucosamine Sport 15m

Start: Stick clip ring behind the tree. Head up and left. Leavethe tree alone.

FA: G.Henderson, 2000

24 Pethadine Sport 15m

Start: As for 'Glucosamine', then right and up.

FA: G.Henderson, 2000

25 Morphine Sport 15m

Start: 4m right of P. Jump to lip then follow bolts left of Pethadine!

FA: G.Henderson, 2000

27 #6 Sport 15m

Bouldery start around the arete from 'Grace'.

FA: G.Henderson, 2004


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