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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 Oh! Shut up! Sport 15m

WARNING, top left anchor is loose!

FA: D.Geiger, 2002

2
25 ** Welcome To The Borzoi Sport 15m, 8

First route you come to on the main wall.

FA: M Baker, A Farquhar, 2013

3
25 * Slave to the Rhythm Sport 20m

Rebolted 2004

FA: M. Baker, J. Jobling, 1991

4
25 ** Codein Sport 15m

25 in new guide

FA: G.Henderson, 2002

5
24 * Mogambo Sport 18m

Rebolted 2004. 1st ring is loose, and so are the next few holds.

FA: M. Baker, W. Baird, 1991

6
26 *** Grace Sport 20m

Rebolted 2004. If it could get more stars it would! WARNING, 1st ring is loose

Start: Start just left of the arete.

FA: J. Smoothy., 1988

7
project Project (Glen) Unknown
8

Requires the odd BP.

FA: A.Farquar, 1998

9
23 * Will if Stay? Sport 15m

FA: M.Spring, 1999

10
23 * The Jam Nazi Sport 12m

FA: D.Taylor, 1999

11
project Open Project Unknown
12
25 ** The Missing Man Sport 15m

Right of vegetated corner. Fixed hangers to chain.

FA: F.Yule, 1995

13
26 ** Introversion Sport 15m

Start: 2m right of MM.Finishes at MM chain.

FA: G.Henderson, 2000

14
25 * Glucosamine Sport 15m

Start: Stick clip ring behind the tree. Head up and left. Leavethe tree alone.

FA: G.Henderson, 2000

15
24 Pethadine Sport 15m

Start: As for 'Glucosamine', then right and up.

FA: G.Henderson, 2000

16
25 Morphine Sport 15m

Start: 4m right of P. Jump to lip then follow bolts left of Pethadine!

FA: G.Henderson, 2000

17
27 #6 Sport 15m

Bouldery start around the arete from 'Grace'.

FA: G.Henderson, 2004

Areas

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Style
Climbs
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Grades

Routes

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Grade Route
20
29 * Paradise Lost Sport 18m

FA: B.Littleford, 2004

21
17 Tom Thumb Trad 15m

Take gear!

FA: H.Luxford, T.Tierney, 1968

22
Project Sport

FA: Mel, 2000

23
27 Rasta Sport 8m

FA: E.J, 2004

24
29 * Too Legit to Quit Sport 18m

FA: B.Littleford, 2004

25
25 * That’s Life Sport 20m

FA: M.Shields, 2004

Open trips

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