A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

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Table of contents

1. Blue Mountains 4,939 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.337263, -33.703968

Unique Features And Strengths:

Massive amounts of rock, easily accessible high quality routes in a beautiful location.

Description:

Driving up into the Blue Mountains is like entering a fortress, for once you are up in them, you are on a plateau surrounded on all sides by cliffs. It is in this almost suburban bush surrounding, that some of Australia's best climbing resides. From big adventurous walls, to smaller single pitch sport climbs, to fantastic trad climbing, the Blueys has a bit of it all. All this comes amidst the smoky blue green vistas of the Blueys, which on a good day are so peaceful you will never want to leave.

The Blue Mountains are a unique destination offering a very civilised climbing experience, courtesy of places like Katoomba and Blackheath, that sport a healthy cafe culture. The mornings can begin with a coffee in Blackheath and a visit to the bakery. The day can then be spent thrashing yourself on some of the countless sport routes, or scaring yourself silly on some sandy trad horror show. The evening can then culminate in Katoomba with a nice café meal and possibly a film. For a more traditional experience head to Mt Victoria for the pub, and the rickety old theatre. Most of the crags are within easy driving distance of each other, and in some cases easy walking distance. The most popular area is around Blackheath which offers the highest concentration of quality climbing to be found. There are many other areas though which are very good, most of which are within half an hour, to an hours drive away. For most people these days, the Blueys is really a sport climbing destination. Apart from Nowra, there is no other place where you will find so many sport routes. There is still plenty of trad climbing though, even though the sandstone is not as suited to trad climbing as the Grampians and Arapiles, being generally poorer in quality. Mt Piddington and Mt York are probably two of the best places to trad climb, although both crags offer some sport climbing. Around Blackheath the best sport area is Centennial Glen, although Upper Shipley probably offers more options for the intermediate climber.

For the beginner climber the Blue Mountains is nowhere near as good as Arapiles or the Grampians, the easier routes do tend to be the chossier ones. For the intermediate to advanced climber though, the Blue Mountains is fantastic. The beginner climber should not be put off however, as the Blue Mountains probably has more climbing companies offering introductions to climbing, than anywhere else in the country. The Blueys is a fantastic place to spend time, although it can be a little more expensive than other areas, due to having so many more temptations.

Access Issues:

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach:

An hour and a half’s drive west of Sydney (80kms). There is a train line that runs right across the top of the Blue Mountains plateau and many stations (e.g. Blackheath) are in very close proximity to the crags. There is also a bus service.

Where To Stay:

Camping isn't fantastic; there are free campgrounds in the Megalong Valley, Mt York and Perrys Lookdown but they are a long way from the crags if you don't have a car and have limited facilities. Blackheath has a BMCC operated campground which offers security and showers and is in the centre of the main climbing hub. Katoomba has plenty of hostels and there are many bed and breakfast type places through the mountains, if you can afford it. It really is a place where a car is needed to make the best of the area.

Ethic:

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

History:

Birthplace of climbing in Australia?

1.1. Lower Blue Mountains 383 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.605127, -33.744011

Unique Features And Strengths:

The lower mountains features a variety of areas from gorges, gullies, gulches, caves, waves, and much more. Renowned for its loose sandstone, the climbing can be quite friable!

Description:

The lower mountains is made up of several jurisdictions, including national park and crown land. The rock quality varies, with much of the area still un'scent.

Access Issues:

Be sensible.

Approach:

From Sydney cross the Neapean river and you are there!

1.1.1. Slab World 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.574291, -33.735419

Description:© (secretary)

Slab World is located in the Lower Blue Mountain's near Springwood. Head to Martins lookout on Farms road at Springwood. Park the car at end of dirt track and head towards the lookout. 20 metres before the lookout, turn right along the path. Continue along path for about 15 minutes heading into valley. After a steepish section and a left turnn you will see a big cairn and faint track on the left,follow to the cliff line along for roughly 200 metres. Spider Wall is up high on a ledge, while the main wall is 100 metres further along. There is plenty of rock on broken down cliffs for further development should anyone be keen and not mind the walk.

Approach:© (secretary)

Slab World is located in the Lower Blue Mountain's near Springwood.

Head to Martins lookout on Farms road at Springwood. Park the car at end of dirt track and head towards the lookout. 20 metres before the lookout, turn right along the path. Continue along path for about 15 minutes heading into valley. After a steepish section and two switchbacks in the path, a large orange cave will be seen on the left. Head to cave and follow the cliff line along for roughly 200 metres. 'Spider' Wall is up high on a ledge, while the main wall is 100 metres further along.

There is plenty of rock on broken down cliffs for further development should anyone be keen and not mind the walk.

1.1.1.1. Spider wall 2 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Sport
Description:© (secretary)

Up high in corner on a small ledge

1.1.1.2. Main Wall 20 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:© (secretary)

Slabby to vertical wall up to 15m high.

1.1.2. The Heights 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.651448, -33.664765

Description:© (secretary)

The Crag is small by Blue Mountain standard's, being about 100 metre's long broken up by several large caves. 'Purgatory Wall' recieves sun about Midday, while 'Bull Ant Wall' is in sun up to about 2-3pm. Kev's boulder is shaded from around 11am onwards. The wall's range from slabs to over vertical and are all quite short. If it looks like it might rain up in the Bluey's 'The Heights' might make a good alternative.

Approach:© (secretary)

The Height's is located in the Lower Blue Mountain's near Winmalee overlooking the Nepean river.

From Springwood head north along Hawkesbury Road to the until you get to the Hawkesbury lookout where you park your car. Head down the road, near the end of the barriers step over and follow the faint track. Once at the cliff edge, head left for about 100 metres where you can scramble down to the base of 'Purgatory Wall'.

1.1.2.1. Purgatory Wall 10 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Sport
Description:© (secretary)

A slabby Wall about 9 metres high with some good rock. All climbs are described from left to right

1.1.2.2. Bull Ant Wall 7 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:© (secretary)

An orange steepish wall about 10 metres high. All climbs are described from left to right.

1.1.3. Norton's Basin 79 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.617301, -33.858742

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Arrival 18Unknown 12m
2 It's a fine line 18Unknown 10m
3 Pain 17Unknown 10m
4 It's a tough life 14Unknown 10m
5 Just the ticket 13Unknown 10m
6 Last of the orchids 15Trad 14m
7 False start 17Unknown 15m
8 Red Hot 18Unknown 15m
9 Mistaken Identity 16Unknown 15m
10 Rib tickler 16Unknown 12m
11 LFC 19Unknown 10m
12 Kickstart 19Unknown 10m
13 MI 10Unknown 10m
14 IPNTCIYM 13Unknown 10m
15 Picnic

FA: Luxfor, Cameron & Chambers, 1993

8Unknown 10m
16 Marchfly Madness

FA: Cameron, Chambers & Luxford, 1993

14Unknown 8m
1.1.3.1. West Side Crag 28 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.615906, -33.861311

1.1.3.2. East Side Crag 21 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.617909, -33.859995

1.1.3.3. Riverside Crag 14 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.615918, -33.859206

1.1.4. Mulgoa lookout 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.617690, -33.818550

Description:

Some sandy routes, old carrots and cookie cave. Overlooks Nepean river

Approach:

Drive to end of Fairlight road, Mulgoa.

History:

Stu and Dan i think developed most of the cookie cave. not sure about the old carrots on the lookout boulder. Dan and Todd threw some staino in round 09.

1.1.4.1. Bolt Wall 0 routes in Cliff
Description:

mixed and TR routes

Approach:

at the carpark. head back down the road and veer off right into the bush.

Descent Notes:

head towards the water till it starts to decend the head SW. climb faces South

1.1.4.2. Cookie cave 0 routes in Boulder
Description:

Cool little cave with variety of problems.

Approach:

walk straight down path (dont fang left like your going to the lookout) after bout 200 meters where the track goes right pull off left and follow faint track

History:

stumbled onto it when scoping out the area. Dan was, and Stu still is Living in mulgoa. im pretty sure they know most about it.

1.1.4.3. Lookout Climbs 1 route in Sector
Summary:

Long/Lat: 150.617871, -33.818440

Description:

Some old andy mixed and TR routes. i route with RBs

Approach:

head to the lookout. lookout boulder has some old carrots and decent pro for top anchors.

Descent Notes:

Todds helm. get to underneath the lookout. face the water and head right scrambling down slightly for 30m. you should be able to see ring bolts on the rock

History:

Carrots and lookout climbs unknown. Todd bolted the helm and is developing other mixed/sport routes in the area

1.1.5. Glenbrook Gorge 101 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.629642, -33.781657

Description:© (PThomson)

Old school adventurous mostly-trad climbing on rock of varying quality. A few classics (Annelid Crack/Kippax Crack in particular) combined with a quiet, majestic location and located 45min closer to Sydney than the main Blueys crags make this worth a look.

Useful Info: The lower section of the cliffline to the left and right of the first pitch of 'Annelid Crack' is the lower cliffline. Immediately right of the crack is I'd Rather be Cable Skiiing (16), 'New Sensations' (16) and 'Powder Finger' (21), continuing past many climbs to Tungston Tips (22) at the end of this wall. Immediately left of the Annelid crack is 'Airstrike' (21), 'Flying Pickets' (21) and Tas (21).

Follow the lower cliffline downstream (east) past several more climbs and you will find 'Lady Killer' (21) marked in a small cave, with 'Three Cans Later' (16) and 'Mephisto' (22) above it on a small ledge. Continuing east you'll find a gully which leads up to the middle-section of the 'Main Wall'. Heading straight up the gully brings you to a cave cut from orange rock, with Kevin's Wall (12), Kevin's Corner (14/16), and 'Good Old Days' (21) immediately to the left of it.

Heading upstream (west) through the cave brings you to 'Fleet Street' (19), the clearly marked 'Dispute Chimney' (14), and the overhung 'Into the Void' (22). Continuing west through the next cave brings you to the end of this ledge, with the second pitch of 'Annelid Crack' (11) to your left, and the mixed crack climbing of 'Purple Maze' (15) just after the end of the ledge. At this point now you are also almost directly beneath Tunnel View 'Lookout'.

Heading back downstream to where you came up the 'Gully' and beyond, you will pass by 'Puddin Puller' (18) in an obvious square-corner, with 'Paradise' (17), 'Jerks in Heaven' (19) and 'East of Eden' (19) next to it. At this point the elevated section ends, and you can follow another path back down to the creek.

Continuing east along the edge of the creek you arive at the imposing South-Eastern wall, with the roof-crack Wokkers Roof (24) about 50 metres above. The climbing wall ends another hundred metres downstream, almost directly opposite where the train emerges from the tunnel on the clifftops opposite you.

Approach:© (PThomson)

Heading west from Sydney along the Great Western 'Highway', turn left onto Ross Street in Glenbrook. Follow it around through the main street of Glenbrook, then turn right onto Euroka Rd, and then left onto Bruce Rd. Follow Bruce Rd until you arrive at the entrance to Glenbrook National Park.

Park up near the old Information Center (you don't need to pay for park entry if you park here), and follow the trail from the South-Eastern corner of the carpark, marked as leading to 'Glenbrook Gorge'.

Follow the track downwards for about 5 minutes until you reach the creek. Follow the creek east for a few minutes (the North-Western climbing area is up the hill to your left, here) until you find a safe place to cross to the southern side. After crossing continue east along the river for another five minutes and you should see 'Annelid Crack' (sometimes called Kippax crack) on the wall to your right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Cosmo's Tasmanian Devilry

FA: N Smith, R McMahon, T Williams, 2000

19Trad 10m
2 * Artist's Crack

FA: W Moon, P Chalkley, 2000

17Trad 10m
3 * Inspiration Crack

FA: W Moon, P Chalkley, 2000

13Trad 10m
4 Controversy Corner

FA: F Moon, B Cameron, 2000

18 RTrad 12m
5 Tungsten Tips

FA: W Moon, B Cameron, 2000

22Trad 12m
6 Tas 26

FA: B Cameron, N Smith, 2000

21Sport 12m
7 Lady Killer

Marked climb in a small cave.

FA: S Chambers, P Mende, 1979

21Trad 10m
8 Adrenalin Deficiency

FA: W Moon, 2000

19Trad 17m
9 One Perfect Day

FA: B Cameron, 2000

17 RTrad 12m
10 The Toxic Avenger

FA: R Le Breton, M Klien, C Bennett, 2000

21 RSport 17m
11 Hang Five 16Trad 12m
12 Flying Pickets

FA: T Williams, 2000

21Trad 10m
13 New Sensations

FA: R Le Breton, C Bennett, A Mason, 2000

16Trad 25m
14 Mephisto

FA: S Moon, B Cameron, 2000

22Trad 12m
15 Last Grasp

FA: T Williams, N Smith, R McMahon, 2000

18 RTrad 10m
16 Powder Finger

FA: B Cameron, W Moon, 2000

21 RTrad 17m
17 Geriatric Gymnast

FA: F Moon, B Cameron, 2000

20Trad 17m
18 Pox

FA: W Moon, J Smoothy, 2000

17Trad 12m
19 Airstrike

FA: S Moon, 2000

21 RTrad 10m
20 Three Cans Later

FA: W Moon, F Moon, B Cameron, 2000

16Trad 12m
21 Synthax Error

FA: P Matysek, T Williams, 2000

21Trad 17m
22 I'd Rather be Cable Skiing

FA: C Bennett, R Le Breton, M Hall, 2000

16Sport 10m
23 Technical Torque

FA: B Cameron, W Moon, F Moon, 2000

19 RTrad 12m
24 Inconclusion

FA: R McMahon, N Smith, T Williams, 2000

16Trad 10m
1.1.5.1. South-Eastern Wall 16 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (PThomson)

Route descriptions can be found here: http://www.sydneyclimbing.com/xgo_glenbrook_gorge.html (Route Descriptions taken from 'Rockclimbs in the Lower Blue Mountains' (1994) by Harry Luxford and Bruce Cameron, and reproduced with permission by Peter Monks for Sydney Rockies.)

1.1.5.2. Main Wall 49 routes in Sector
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:© (PThomson)

Route descriptions can be found here: http://www.sydneyclimbing.com/xgo_glenbrook_gorge.html (Route Descriptions taken from 'Rockclimbs in the Lower Blue Mountains' (1994) by Harry Luxford and Bruce Cameron, and reproduced with permission by Peter Monks for Sydney Rockies.)

1.1.5.3. Lower Cliffline 0 routes in Sector
1.1.5.4. Upper Cliffline 9 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (PThomson)

Route descriptions can be found here: http://www.sydneyclimbing.com/xgo_glenbrook_gorge.html (Route Descriptions taken from 'Rockclimbs in the Lower Blue Mountains' (1994) by Harry Luxford and Bruce Cameron, and reproduced with permission by Peter Monks for Sydney Rockies.)

1.1.5.5. North-Western Wall 3 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (PThomson)

Route descriptions can be found here: http://www.sydneyclimbing.com/xgo_glenbrook_gorge.html (Route Descriptions taken from 'Rockclimbs in the Lower Blue Mountains' (1994) by Harry Luxford and Bruce Cameron, and reproduced with permission by Peter Monks for Sydney Rockies.)

1.1.6. The Surgery 26 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.603859, -33.753065

Description:

A great long bouldering cave tucked down behind some houses in blaxland. Avoid like herpes after rain. All the problems have been renamed in a "Surgery" theme as the original names have been lost to time. Names and grades are welcome for the unnamed problems, I just haven't done them.

Approach:

From the lights on highway at blaxland (300m past the lappo) follow Coughlan Rd past Blaxland high school until you cross the train line. Take the first right and go straight onto the pebblecrete drive down behind the houses. Park at the end of the straight just before the road starts heading back up the hill.

Descent Notes:

From the car walk straight down through the scrub crossing the fire road till you hit the start of the cliff line (100m), follow along the BASE of the cliff left 80m and your there.

History:

No history yet, has been climbed at for a long time. Any history is very welcome.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jack-knife

Start from the big jug. Out and up. Committing.

V4Boulder
2 Gingivectomy

Long undercling traverse. Some rumors of this traverse being grade 25.

Boulder
3 Nephrectomy

Start matched on the undercling. Big moves and Big fun

V3Boulder
4 ** Photocoagulator

Start at the back of the cave.

V4Boulder
5 Prosthesis

Chipped.

Boulder
6 Oxycel

Same Start as Go Go Gadget but follows the left edge of the cave to finish on the black jugs.

V2Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 ** Go Go Gadget

Start in the rad underslot, big moves to a high finish

V2Boulder
8 ** The Nurse

Double side-pull start then up via crimps and slopes to the rail jug. A great problem and tricky until up figure out the beta.

V3Boulder
9 ** Doctor

Same start as Necrosis then hard move into The Nurse to finish at the jug rail.

V5Boulder
10 Necrosis

Start at double undercling then up via nice crimps to jug, direct start V1

V2Boulder
11 Botox

Start on jug right of the flake then undercling/side pull the the flake to finish on orange horn.

V1Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 * Rocky-Davis

Start match on the undercling up via slopes and crimps to the camps ledge then big moves to high jug pocket.

V2Boulder
13 Can you campus.

Simple campus from left to right

V0Boulder
14 * Roof Pocket

Start on the X jug rail above the ferns, traverse the roof until the campus ledge then finsh up P13

V3Boulder
15 P15 slopey Boulder
16 * Hope

A fun campus problem, start with a small pocket and crimp, move right to finger jug, left hand to small crimp above then swing right to a good incut high edge, match.

V4Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 ** Say aaaaaaaah

Start on the big jug up to another jug pocket with glue on it then big moves up and right via crimps. Keep trucking right past another jug pocket to finish as teflon.

V4Boulder
18 ** Teflon

Crag classic. Start in the back of the cave, big moves on big holds. Finish on the high big sloper.

V2Boulder
19 Mosquito clamps Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
20 Anti-anxiety Arete

HIGH.. This problem is 6m+ Has top rope anchors.

Boulder
21 Sandy Candy

Scary ground up high ball, left hand on the arete. Has top rope anchors.

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2012

V2Boulder 5m
22 Excision

Got better holds then the right hand side. Has top rope anchors.

V1Boulder 4m
23 The Hyperhidrosis Problem

Straight up the middle of the face to top-out mantle. Use of either arete is "out".

Thin and balancy. Has been climbed to 1m from the top.

Boulder Project 6m
24 Gastroplasty

Harder of the two sides. Has top rope anchors.

V1Boulder 4m
25 Anaphalaxis and the Angry Ant Attack

The ants are gone... :(

Once renowned as a "speed ascent problem" (as the crucial hold contained a nest of angry ants that swarmed once the hold was used), it's now a conventional and safe boulder problem.

Stand start, up via the one and only hold to top-out.

FA: Paul Thomson, 2012

V1Boulder 3m
26 * Black Trash Traverse

Long block traverse from right to left. Start in small pockets on the top edge and traverse to the far left edge of the block

FFA: Ben JengA, 2012

V1Boulder

1.1.7. Yellowrock 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

Easy access and solid bolts over a range of climbs in a condensed area. Plenty of untapped potential.

Description:

Drive to the end of Yellowrock road. Park, cliffs start at the parking lot.

Access Issues:

Park at the end of Yellowrock road.

Approach:

Look around.

1.1.8. Birdwood Gully 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.562793, -33.697144

Description:

Park on Boland avenue and head into birdwood gully. Take a right at the main trail. About 300 meters you will find the cave. You cant miss it.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 B 1

Left most route

Start: Left most route

21Sport 10m
2 B 2 22Sport 10m
3 B 3

Grade 13 ??

Start: Left B3

13Sport 10m
4 B 4 26Sport 10m
5 B 6 24Sport 10m
6 B 7 - aka The Gym Hold Direct 24Sport 10m
7 B 8 - The Gym Hold 22Sport 10m
8 B 9 - The Surfboard Route

Choice of two finishes

23Sport 10m
1.1.8.1. The Cave 1 route in Crag
Summary:
Description:

The big cave.

1.1.9. Blue Gum Swamp 9 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.606169, -33.654409

Description:

Blue Gum Swamp runs along the river at the bottom of Shaws Ridge. The two trails connect and provide the local schools with their cross country trails. Multiple caves and areas exist on the wall between the two trails. Some areas are stand alone and easier to access from Blue Gum Swamp Trail. Others are in the main ridge line and are more easily accessed from Shaws Ridge Trail. As always with the lower mountains, beware the loose rock, and clean all routes thoroughly.

Approach:

Goto Winmalee shopping center, continue to the end of White Cross road and park at Blue Gum Swamp and Shaws Ridge parking lot. Head down main trail and take left towards Blue Gum Swamp. Many sectors along right hand side of trail.

History:

Shaws ridge trail is believed to have been created sometime in the 1880s. It is likely that the area has been visited by climbers and the like for some time, although there are no documented climbs. The area began to see development by the local Winmalee crews around 2010. Efforts by the Matt and Bryson Klein and the young Winmalee bouldering set in 2012/13 have seen some first ascents getting made.

1.1.9.1. Cross Country 8 routes in Sector
Summary:
Description:

The Cross Country boulder is located directly on the side of the Blue Gum Swamp fire trail and there is a slabby wall about 8m behind off to the right side of the Swamp Cave.

Approach:

Obvious area directly on the side of the trail about six hundred meters past the gate on the Blue Gum Swamp trail.

Descent Notes:

Obvious area, super easy access.

History:

Saw some cleaning by ZPAB crew in 2010. No serious efforts until Matt Klein and company re-discovered and put in some excellent lines in 2012/13.

1.1.9.2. Swamp Cave 1 route in Sector
Summary:
Description:

The steep overhang visible from the Blue Gum Swamp fire trail. Directly behind the Cross Country boulder.

Approach:

Obvious area directly on the side of the trail about six hundred meters past the gate on the Blue Gum Swamp trail.

1.1.10. Zed Dimension 61 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.632670, -33.682069

Unique Features And Strengths:

High density boulder crag, with some potential for routes. Located in the lower mountains, making it easy access for anyone short on time.

Description:

This crag is located off Shakespear Drive in Winmalee. It is spread over several sectors which are between 200 and 500 meters apart. There are around 40 boulder problems established and around another 300 to be 'csent.

Access Issues:

From hawkesbury road turn into high school drive, left on endeavour drive, right on newton way, and a left or right onto Shakespear drive which is a loop. At the opposite end of the loop is a dirt road, park and walk.

Ethic:

Much of the rock is marginal, so the need to clean is essential. Please try to maintain 'scent routes, but clean or "modify" new routes as required. The Sculture Garden has several chipped routes; with more to go in where boulders are otherwise unclimbable. Several boulders have horrible landings, so be wary.

1.1.10.1. Training Yards 17 routes in Sector
Summary:

Long/Lat: 150.617715, -33.680356

Description:

This sector consists of 6 main boulders with about 10 minor boulders. The pick of the sector and maybe the whole area is Saturns Forge.

Approach:

From the dirt track entrance on Shakespeare drive, head about 20 meters in and then follow the cairns down a right hand track. Cairns lead the way to the different boulders.

1.1.10.2. Trespassers Domain 0 routes in Sector
Description:

Sector is within the boundaries of the water treatment plant. Some decent boulders; lots of cleaning required.

1.1.10.3. Sculpture Garden 31 routes in Sector
Summary:

Long/Lat: 150.622343, -33.680198

Description:

A high density sector with a good mix of steep, slab, and vertical. Also contains a number of chipped problems on otherwise unclimbable sections...hence the name.

Approach:

From the dirt entry on Shakespeare drive, follow the path to the power lines, cross under the power lines and turn left to parallel the fence of the water treatment plant, around 300 meters in is a large slab of rock, the boulders are along the down hill side of this slab.

1.1.10.4. Sky Block 0 routes in Boulder
Description:

An epic roof with a tender top out! Five or so lines through the roof lead onto a ten foot top out through sloping scoops.

Approach:

Pass through the sculpture garden staying on top of the rock. Past Candy Cane Arete there are cairns pointing the way. A little bush bash will bring you to some low roofs and leads down to a 8 foot tall roof with impressive scoops on the top.

History:

First discovered 2010, cleaned 2012, no 'scends yet.

1.1.10.5. El Dorado 1 route in Crag
Summary:

Long/Lat: 150.625094, -33.683969

Description:

Lost Crag of GOLD! Across the gully from the Sculpture Garden, this area has HUGE potential! There are five cave sectors found so far! With a thirty meter long wave wall with great landings...very nice!

1.1.10.6. Supranatural 5 routes in Sector
Summary:

Long/Lat: 150.628837, -33.681492

Description:

A whole nother level. A ton of unscent problems. The Quantum Caves is possibly the best of the zone.

Approach:

Turn through hole in gate before the powerlines. Follow the dirt road past two turnoffs. Pass through the fence at the other side and continue along for another 150 meters. 50 meters after dog leg, take a right at the cairn. A large rock slab will let you know you have arrived.

1.1.10.7. School Dayz 0 routes in Sector
Description:

Area behind the Winmalee high school.

1.1.10.8. Opening Moves 3 routes in Crag
Summary:
1.1.10.9. Verticality 4 routes in Crag
Summary:

1.1.11. BYU 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.605248, -33.666041

Description:

Boulders off edge of Ridge View Close.

1.1.11.1. El Crisol del Enfuerzo 1 route in Sector
Summary:
Description:

Cave with fire pit on left side, iron stone pockets and a solid fold leading to a stellar top out.

1.1.12. Steep City 34 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.610948, -33.680400

Description:

Area along gully beginning in Tall Timbers reserve and joining up with the Zed. Heaps of steep styling boulders. The 6 caves in Tall Timbers reserve are a defining feature of the area, with a monster 60 meter cave centring the sector. Some great stand alone boulders litter the sides of the gullies, providing heaps of variety. Some seriously classy problems make this one of the best boulder crags in the Sydney area! Big call, come test it!

1.1.12.1. Heather Gully 30 routes in Area
Summary:

Long/Lat: 150.611989, -33.680306

Description:

Gully south of Heather. Great boulders litter the gully slopes all the way around the sides of the Heather road ridge. Plenty of variety, caves, slab,face, what more could you want? Oh yeah, a three minute approach on good paths!

Approach:

Enter in from Heather road and descend into gully. Can also be approached from tall timbers 4wd entry, although it involves some serious scrambling up from the creek.

History:

Clear tracks from back yards show plenty of foot traffic, first boulder problem developed by Zorba 2013.

1.1.12.2. Lee Road Caves 4 routes in Area
Summary:

Long/Lat: 150.610864, -33.681324

Description:

A series of Giant caves lines the backs of houses along Lee road. Around 5 caves, from 5 to 50 meters long, provide absurd amounts of bullet rock hidden within loose looking choss.

Approach:

Across the creek from Middle Earth. You cant miss it. Entry via Lee road at the Tall Timbers entrance is possible.

History:

Some clear signs of drunken parties prior to 2013, they left a lot of loose rock and no chalk. Development by Z started in 2013.

1.1.13. Backyard Basic 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.565971, -33.693168

Description:

New lower mountains cliff under development. Is a good beginners crag on good rock.

This cliff is similar to the nearby birdwood gully walls and being in the lower mountains it contains some great rock and some sandy. All of the new routes have been bolted with beginners in mind and top ropes could easily be set up.

All the grades may be due to change with repeats??

The downside of it being a suburban crag is there is a lot of rubbish and a surprising amount of bongs at the base of the look out. We hope to be able to clean this up in the near future.

Approach:

Park at the Lomatia Park Springwood car park and walk west until you can follow a track behind a few houses. At the corner of the last house continue on the track north until you pass the end of Park ave then follow the track down and out to the lookout.

Descent Notes:

Once at the lookout walk a further 40m north until you find a descent down some big rock steps. Walk back under the cliff and the first route will be on the left.

History:

Two routes of unknown history existed before Sharpie and Mobe the dog found this cliff at Christmas.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Festively Plump

First route of the crag. Stem up the tree to start until you reach the good jug. Nice wall climbing with a reachy top.

Set by Ben JengA, 2014

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2014

14Sport 7m, 6
2 Black Max

Great crimpy wall on good edges until the top flake that isn't as good as you hope.

Set by Ben JengA., 2014

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2014

17Sport 7m, 6
3 * MoBe.

Super top moves that require a bit of thinking and crimping.

Set by Sharpie, 2014

FFA: Sharpie, 2014

18Sport 6m, 5
4 Russian caravan

Some of the best rock on the wall with some sneaky pockets. Be careful with the top white jugs.

Set by Sharpie, 2014

FFA: Sharpie, 2014

15Sport 7m, 5
5 * Lost Keys

Good interesting climbing in and out of caves. The top is reminiscent of the descent gully walls at Nowra.

Set by Sharpie, 2014

FFA: Sharpie, 2014

15Sport 7
6 Grabing Sand

The left glue in carrot route to the chain. Details unknown? The hardest route at the crag, sequenced moves see you past the lower crux if you move your feet.

20Sport 9m, 5
7 Sand wedge.

The right glue in carrot route, details unknown? Funk up the steep start to an easy finish. Home to one of the best holds on the wall.

17Sport 9m, 5
8 ** Sounds of Summer

Steep man classic. Steep reach jug start then super easy to the top.

Set by Ben JengA, 2014

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2014

19Sport Project
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 Caves Route

Soon to be bolted.

Sport Project
10 Caves direct

Soon to be bolted.

Sport Project

1.1.14. Booker Jam wall 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
Top Rope, Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.642339, -33.655838

Unique Features And Strengths:

Cool spot, nice flat top rope wall with plenty of potential and a great outlook

Description:

Fun wall, great location. Pretty fresh with plenty of hollow plates and choss, be careful and bring a brush!

Access Issues:

National Park

Approach:

Park at end of Booker rd in Hawkesbury heights. Walk out fire trail, ignore first track branching right and continue 30mtrs and take the next track also branching right. Follow to end. You will arrive at top of walls, there is a scramble chute at either end to get down, otherwise abseil from a tree. Total walk time less than 10 minutes.

History:

Glued carrot bolts in place for top roping at multiple points along wall. They appear to be in good condition and haven't had any issues with them except for the unusual placement of some. They have been there for a minimum of 3 years. Cannot find any information regarding who installed them originally nor route names grades etc, so, i have begun naming routes in lieu of first ascender/installer claiming ownership.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 unknown

Far left on the wall starting on thr face then moving left then up.2 carrot bolts 1st is a bit high

18Sport 11m, 2
2 point break

On the rounded nose Left of pump up the jam. Get past the cave by proping up off boulder.

17Top rope 8m
3 pump up the jam

Up the corner behind the boulder

12Top rope 7m
4 * crimp gymp

Right of 'pump up the jam' pumpy moves on hard crimpers. Good fun.

FA: Guru, 6th Jul

19Top rope 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 * Toe Jam

Up crack right side of bulge slab. Layback start. Reachy balanced top moves. Lots of fun with some cool holds and footwork.

FA: Guru, 30th Jun

18Top rope 8m
6 ** book it in

Cool climbing hard moves pinching and crimping

FA: Guru, 2014

18Top rope 8m
7 off the width

up the off width or use the face

14Top rope 8m
8 cosbys sweater

Right of 'off the width' More of Bookers good stuff

FA: Iain Morrison, 6th Jul

16Top rope 8m
9 * Horn dog

Up crack left of 'random climb' easy start with a forest of holds to the 2 horns. Thins out slightly with some balancy moves, keep pumping through

FFA: Guru

FA: 30th Jun

18Sport 8m, 2
10 * Random climb

one meter left of old pumpy, fun features and some cool moves 2 carrot bolts

17Top rope 8m
11 * old pumpy

Starting in the little cut out in wall climb using tiny cave. some good pumpy moves to the top. stick the gaston up the shallow vertical crack or bail right for a lower grade.

18Top rope 8m
12 fitzswingin

Furthest right route slippery moss sloper.

13Top rope
13 boulderdash

Long Traverse entire wall right to left starting right of fitzswingin

V1Boulder

1.2. Kings Tableland 18 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 150.396260, -33.818494

1.2.1. Kedumba Pass 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 150.378507, -33.781292

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Softly Softly 11Trad 35m
2 Tip Toe 11Trad 35m
3 Workshop Wall 8Trad 35m
4 Pinnochio 13Trad 40m
5 Toymaker 11Trad 40m
6 Straight Up 11Trad 40m
7 Immediately Left 8Trad 40m
8 Bollard 8Trad 40m
9 Gully and Wall 7Trad 50m
10 * Outa Balance 17Trad 70m
11 Bib 14Trad 70m
12 Bub 15Trad 70m
13 Pippin 13Trad 50m

1.2.2. The Emu 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 150.387548, -33.803275

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Emu

Pitch 8 is grade 17. Pitch 6 is 16. Not 15 and 14 as per Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains guide.

FA: John Ewbank, Greg Mortimer, Lucas Trihey

16Trad 270m
2 Enu Crack 22Trad 250m
3 The Dreaming 14Trad 220m
4 The King and I 12Trad 220m
5 Gondwana 16Trad 240m

1.3. Leura 174 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.370908, -33.664701

1.3.1. Lockleys Pylon 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Simple 11Unknown 50m
2 Pure 8Unknown 40m
3 Black Bowler Derby 11Unknown 130m
4 Ilych 16Unknown 110m
5 Black Stovepipe Trousers 9Unknown 110m
6 Sophisticated Synthetics 14Unknown 110m
7 The Pixie

FA: Warrick William, Paul Mara

13Unknown 110m
8 Peachy Keen 13Unknown 85m
9 Freezing Point

FA: Bruce Cameron, Hayden Brotchie

12Unknown 80m
10 Piecemeal 12Unknown 110m
11 Berrington corner 15Unknown 50m
12 The Hallelulia climb 13Unknown 120m

1.3.2. Sublime Point 130 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.340504, -33.732623

Description:© (Stu)

Sublime Point is a large 200m high west facing two tiered cliff perched on the end of a finger of rock south of 'Leura'. Most people visit to climb the popular easy multi-pitch 'Sweet Dreams' (14), but there is plenty of other interesting routes in the area, from old school vegetated girdles to bolted single pitch sport routes. Many of the older routes haven't had a great deal of recent traffic so take care - and bring the pruning shears. It's easy to polish off a few single pitch routes on the walk-in to doing 'Sweet Dreams' or any of the other multi-pitch routes. There are even some fifty year old aid routes begging for a free ascent.

If adventure climbing isn't your thing then consider Bentrovarto Wall, a very impressive 90m high slightly overhung orange face that contains several sustained routes up to three pitches long. The recent rush of new sport routes on Bentrovarto Wall, and further right in the 'Thumbs Up' area and beyond, have made the right side of the 'Sublime Point' 'Main Area' a good quality walk-in, walk-out crag. Unless you're a latte sipping softy, the walk out is not that bad when you're only carrying a sport rack!

Useful Info: All 'Sublime Point' crags are in a National Park - DOGS ARE NOT ALLOWED. Please do not further endanger climbing access and damage climbers' relationships with the land managers - don't bring your dog to these crags.

If it's hot and you're chasing shade, the 'Main Area' has shade until about noon, the 'Cool Wall' has shade pretty much all day, and last you can head to the 'East Face' which is shady from about noon. If it's cold and you want to be in the sun, hit the 'East Face' early and the 'Main Area' in the afternoon.

Approach:© (Stu)

This area is 13km closer to Sydney than the more popular Bluies crags around Blackheath! From the town of 'Leura' follow signs towards Fairmont Resort until you hit 'Sublime Point' Rd. Follow this south for a few kilometers to end of road and carpark. 'Access' for each sub-area is described on the respective pages (links below).

History:© (Stu)

Sublime Point was opened up to climbing by the Rhum Du Climbing Group in 1958 with climbs created at irregular intervals for a couple of years. The cliff then lay dormant, forgotten and wasted for several years, until a burst of energy by the S.R.C. between '62 & '65. (J.E. Rockclimbs in the Blue Mountains, '67.)

1.3.2.1. East Face 3 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.340192, -33.736187

Description:© (nmonteith)

Large overhung orange wall facing Kings Tableland with easy 5 minute access. All routes require rapping into hanging belays and then climbing out. The super exposed position high above the jungle hundreds of metres below make for a very memorable afternoon out! Shade after midday and nice cool breezes.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From 'Sublime Point' car-park walk along fence of house 142 'Sublime Point' Road (left side of carpark) until it ends after 50m at wooden wall. Walk along wall for 15m (keep quiet so as not to piss of the people in the house above) then head straight downhill on faint track. This track enters the bush at a couple of gnarled banksai trees. Follow track steeply downhill for 80m on faint ridge past a few large tree stumps with a small right turn until it ends at top of small cliffline. Turn right and head down mossy ferny steep gully then go left under small cliffline. 20m along under this cliff turn right and go straight downhill aiming for the edge of the cliff just below. There are two rocky points - the Northern (left one facing out) is the one to find. This has an obvious rap chain on the top and a yellow fixed rope tied around a tree. The other ledge 15m further south (above Subliminal) only has two rings at the top. It's only 5 minutes from the car to the top of the cliff!

1.3.2.2. Lookout 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.338471, -33.737457

Description:

This small crag is directly below the Sublime Point tourist lookout. Access it by crawling underneath the metal bridge. The rock quality here is mostly very poor - but a couple of routes are ok.

1.3.2.3. West Face 125 routes in Crag
Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.337337, -33.735658

Unique Features And Strengths:

The west face contains the majority of popular climbing at Sublime Point, and is accessed by a short but exciting steep descent down a series of rock ledges, fixed ropes and tree roots.

Access Issues:

There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.

Approach:

From the Sublime Point carpark walk down tourist track for 100m or so (past a small hut) until you reach the metal bridge. 2m before the bridge drop down and left to enter gully and surf down the pine needles to base of small cliff (Lookout Micro Area). Walk right under this cliff (past yellow sign) for 20m then turn left down track past gnarled banksia tree. Down ridge a bit, scramble down fixed rope corner on right and keep following exposed track to magic hole (squirm down it!). Keep going steeply down past some fixed ropes - at the bottom of these 2nd set of ropes on the left is Shady Lady wall. For the 'Main Area' continue down steep path and rock steps until you reach the major cliffline. Turn right here and walk along the cliff base for a few 20metres to find the sport route Choc Chip Chai and the first sector. A good track follows the base of this cliff past the other sectors. To get to 'Sweet Dreams', walk north along the base of this cliff following a well trodden track for several hundred metres, passing several walls. You will reach the "cable of death" traverse - yes, you need to go across here and 'Sweet Dreams' is just a few more metres along.

To exit any of the multi-pitch routes walk up hill to small cliffline, get past it somehow then up again until you hit small tourist path. Turn right then follow the track back to carpark (5 minutes).

Where To Stay:

You cannot camp anywhere near the climbing, however if you have a campervan you could just park in the carpark. Be warned - after midnight the carpark gets a lot of yobbos doing drivebys!

Ethic:

Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there has been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbign venue.

History:

Originally a climbing area of the Rhum Du, a splinter group of the Sydney Rockies in the late 50's. Later re-discovered and further developed by the S.R.C. proper in the early 60's. Development of the cliff led to the production of the first Australian climbing guide, 'The Rock-Climbs of N.S.W.' by Bryden Allen and the SRC.

1.3.3. Mt Hay 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.407122, -33.618932

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Margarine Ridge

A long, adventurous route up a prominant line. Some good exposure and excellent long pitches. Rock is of mixed quality, but bad sections can be avoided. Several pitches are broken up by 50m hikes up steep, loose, vegetated sections which can be quite taxing when added to the length of the climb. Rope drag can be a problem on some of the long pitches, and can be mitigated with twin ropes of at least 60m in length (but be careful of rope tangling during the hikes). Be sure to bring at least a full rack of Cams up to #5 (possibly doubles up to #3), wires, plenty of slings, and optionally a set of hexes (good placements on last pitch). Helmets are a must against loose rock/vegetation, and headlamps are reccommended. Starting from the 8th pitch there are a few carrot bolts (slightly off-route) so bring a few bolt plates in case you want to use them.

  1. 13m (13) Marked start of the climb. A tricky and rather poorly protected traverse left leads to a large cave (good gear to protect second), walk left past a loose block to a belay out on the arete.

  2. 35m (9) A long and pleasant pitch up the nice tortoise shell wall above, getting easier with height. Wire and cam belay.

  3. 42m (11) Step up on top of the large flat block, place some gear at the back of the scoops, then step right to steep and juggy moves. These lead up for about 8m to a bushy ledge. Walk left along this, slightly down around the arete and left for approximately 30 metres across an easy wall to a tree below a crack through the bulge. Tree belay. Rope drag on this pitch is a serious concern.

  4. 55m (9) A really enjoyable and surprisingly long pitch. Head up the crack for a couple of metres then step out onto the right face. A long and juggy wall awaits, with a variety of gear. Tree belay on the halfway ledge. Follow the track up or 40m to the start of the upper cliffline.

  5. 58m (9) Start on the juggy face just to the right of the short right facing offwidth corner crack in the block. Another long, juggy and really enjoyable slab, with some good exposure up higher and well spaced but adequate protection. Go up for about 15m, left and up onto next slab, right at the top to avoid steep bit. Rope drag this pitch is a serious issue. Can be mitigated with twin ropes. Walk up to next cliff

  6. 55m (13) An excellent pitch and one of the hardest on the route. Up the lovely corner above, then up two lovely little 5m finger size layback cracks above that. Tree belay.

  7. 35m (13) Climb the initially vegetated, but nice corner up to the big roof, then traverse left to the arete. Straight up this, using the face on either side when it blanks out (take care of the hollow flakes on the right of the arete). A #5 Camalot is highly recommended for this section. Continue up to small tree and mid size cam belay. Walk 25m right to the obvious chossy chimney and a poor belay off a small tree.

  8. 30m (8) Up the chossy and unpleasant chimney for 8m or so (some pro in crack in left wall), then traverse out right on the easy ledge to big exposure being careful to avoid the flakes and weakened rock. Up the short wall to the next ledge, then crawl back left to the belay cave. Ridiculous rope drag is inevitable on this pitch, but can be mitigated with twin ropes. Very poor belay off a single small thread in choss at the back of the cave. The second should exercise extreme care on this pitch, since a fall could blow the belay. There is good gear 1m higher on the left wall of the crack to beef up the belay.

NOTE:There is a bomber thread inside the cave that goes from the bottom right (facing in) up the back to the outside of the cliff, a 120cm, thin (dyneema) sling is required to reach and fit through the little hole. a poking stick helps too.

  1. 30m (6) Step left onto the easy wall, place a #4.5 or #5 Camalot just above the roof then easily up a dirty groove to the final ledge. A single carrot bolt sits at the bottom of the off-width crack for belay. Walk 20m right to the end of the ledge and the base of the final pitch, twin rings for belay.

  2. 30m (9) Step up and right onto a small ledge below a left leading groove. Delicate stemming up the groove leads to a banksia tree and a final small ledge. Good gear in lovely crack on right then step up and over final 8 foot wall to the top. Twin rings for belay. Walk right 30m until you meet Canyon exit track, and follow this back to the carpark.

FA: Hayden Brotchie, John Gray, Paul Davies, 1996

13 RTrad 330m
2 Seismic Daks Splitter 16Unknown 310m
3 Middle Slab 16Unknown 110m
4 Black Slab 21Unknown 89m
5 Monks Wall

Mostly short, generally easy pitches but with a great 5th pitch (the eponymous pitch). This climb has not received many repeats, so be particularly careful if you plan to attempt the route.

The climb starts about 750m right (facing out) from the base of the Mt Hay canyon exit climb (head right soon after doing a short abseil off a big ring bolt). The start is on a small belay ledge about 5m up, about 20m past a small creek fed from a wide, dripping waterfall high up on the cliff.

  1. 15m (16) A nice technical start to the climb. Orange corner left of belay. Hard moves up the corner, then easier up the flake/crack and a gully to a tree belay to the left.

  2. 35m (walk) Walk and scramble up and left, then up a short corner to the base of the second short corner.

  3. 10m (10) Easy wall right of crack to long, narrow ledge below nice black slab

  4. 18m (15) A nice slab (with plenty of variants), with a really atmospheric belay ledge. Easily up unprotected black slab to small ledge (piton, though I think Hayden went back for it). Crank up short, steep wall on thin chickenheads to belay ledge under roof (BB and cams). Pitches 2 and 3 could be linked quite easily into a single pitch.

  5. 55m (15) The money pitch. Traverse right from the belay (be careful of the thin plates below), over the bulge on jugs then up the long slab above with sparse gear. Tree belay. After the FA, a BB was added in the middle of this pitch, allowing it to be led on a 50m rope.

  6. 30m (walk) Walk up halfway ledge to a pleasant belay under a small roof.

  7. 15m (10) Step right onto block then up to ledge. Up pleasant slab to ledge (tree belay).

  8. 25m (walk) Walk up and left to small ledge below hollow corner.

  9. 5m (13) Up hollow corner into cave (small cam with runner out onto face), then back onto the overhanging face and up to ledge.

  10. 20m (walk) Walk up and left to chossy cave. From here on, the climb follows the easiest line to the top of the cliff, thereby avoiding a lot of the great rock on offer to the right. It is expected that a better, direct finish could be done beginning here, and heading out to the right on the nice looking slabs.

  11. 25m (8) Step left and up around arete to ledge, Straight up buttress (or walk up at left hand end). Scramble up to ledge below chossy roof.

  12. 25m (10) Walk left along ledge below chossy roof, then easily up blocks to base of pleasant black slab. Left and up the black slab to belay ledge below steep orange wall.

  13. 15m (12) Up choss to layback crack on right. Pleasant layback to top (tree belay 15m back).

To walk out, head up and right, passing an unusual "inverted V" cave. Keep heading right until the open heath is reached, at which point continue straight up the ridge top, up a short, steep white slab and over the top to the walking track. Walking time to the carpark: 20 minutes.

FA: Hayden Brotchie, Peter Monks (alt), 1998

16Mixed 290m, 2
6 For whom the billy boils 21Unknown 75m
7 Mount Hay canyon exit 8Sport 200m
8 The slot 17Unknown 100m
9 Ghastly gully 14Unknown 80m

1.3.4. The Fortress 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.347729, -33.643496

Unique Features And Strengths:

Brillinat remote crag with a great walk in (1 hour). Gets a lot of wind and sun. The classics are Tom Thumb and The Wind Cries Mary.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Fortress Crack 21Unknown 200m
2 * Butt Crack

While it's probably best noted as a good escape route from the bottom of the cliff, it's actually not a bad little number in its own right. Some of the climbing might feel a few grades harder than grade 11, but by and large it's possible to find a line that conforms to the grade.

A standard rack of wires and cams (to #3 camalot size) is sufficient, although a #5 camalot is also recommended. Helmets are an absolute must and 60m double ropes are highly recommended as well. Definitely not for the inexperienced.

  1. 20m (4) Up the easy ledges then halfway up the right tending gully. Belay off a small tree.

  2. 35m (11) Move left along the obvious traverse line then up as you will to the large, steeply sloping ledge. The initial moves up are harder than they look and it's much easier to traverse back onto the wall from further left.

  3. 80m (4) Walk up the ledge, trending left initially, then solo up a short 8m wall (might be an idea to belay up this). At the top of this move up and slightly right to the small stand of saplings below the obvious squeeze chimney corner crack (#5 camalot for this belay).

  4. 45m (11) Grunt up the squeeze chimney for a move or two then fondly bid it farewell and venture out onto the right wall. Engaging climbing (suss dinnerplates) to the top of a lovely little exposed pinnacle perched in the middle of outer space. Step back to the main wall and up to a spectacular belay ledge.

  5. 55m (11) Move right and up the obvious chimney (which is often wet at the back). At the top, head left and up a steep dirty gully for about 15m, passing the two dodgy looking banksia trees. Belay off a small gum further up, with the trusty #5 camalot in a block just to the left.

To get off, walk directly away from the cliff for about 250m and you'll hit the Fortress Ridge walking track. Turn right and follow the track back to the Mt Hay Road, taking the left fork at each junction. It's about 45 minutes of flat walking back to the road.

FA: Hayden Brotchie

10Trad 240m
3 Internal Hatred 15Unknown 160m
4 Trouser Snake

FA: Angie Bishop, Hayden Brotchie, 2005

14Unknown 85m
5 Pseudechis Wall

FA: Hayden Brotchie, Angie Bishop, 2005

12Unknown 120m
6 Grand Central Route

FA: B Allen, I Logan

12Unknown 210m
7 The Great Rum Beer Chimney

The filthy vegetated gully/chimney system to the climber's right of Tom Thumb.

8Trad 200m
8 Trogan Horse 14Unknown 200m
9 Old Spiteful

FA: T Batty, B Allen

15Unknown 300m
10 Self Abuse 15Unknown 150m
11 ** The Wind Cries Mary

Mixed carrots and trad route up the grand wall right of Tom Thumb. Refer to Sydney Rockies site for most up to date route info. Be aware that this is a new route and there are some loose holds still. Steep face climbing, good rock and reasonable pro.

Start: rap as for 'Tom Thumb'

  1. 18m (8) Up 'Tom Thumb' P1, onto block at 10m and up right to belay. Then walk R into gully and up 10m

  2. 45m (18) Up block and layback then R up wall past bolts and crack, then R to steep wall and bolts and up slab past cams and hard mantel, left top 3BB in break.

  3. 35m (19) Up and slightly R past bolts and cams, then left into corner (good thin break at top) up steep wall (BRs) and runout up to slab and 3BB below cave.

  4. 30m (18) Up to cave and bush runner. Rightwards 12.30 o'clock past bolts then leftwards up corner (average pro) and easy arête to DBB on big ledge. Walk left 20m to another DBB.

  5. 15m (18) walk R and up 2 waves of rock past 5 BRs. Belay on a high bolt and a Ubolt. There is a 50 year old carrot on the ledge

  6. 30m (19) Up steep wall past 2 BRs and sling, the up left on easy wall, walk 6 m to left end of rock band and 2 BB.

Walk left to hit track.

FA: mikl law, Brian Simonds, 2011

19 to 20Mixed 180m, 25
12 Landing Gear Down 16Trad 140m
13 * Tom Thumb
  1. 18m (8) Up a few metres to bolt (used more to show direction than for protection). Up to vertical crack for pro and up bulbous wall (another bolt on right) to DBB at top of buttress. Walk up and right 8 metres to start of next pitch. DBB on wall.

  2. 40m (12) Left of belay grunt onto wall. Natural pro in crack or horizontal breaks up higher. Clip bolt on left. Then move diagonally right to small friend (#0) in horizontal crack and further rightwards on easy stuff to bolt (clip with sling to reduce drag). Up left clipping two bolts, steep tricky move (easiest if you move left). Easy 10m ramble with two bolts to DBB. Best to give your second a tight rope when they start the pitch.

  3. 16m (9) Bolt on right shows the way, then up crack on left to belay. (Bolt and #½ friend.)

  4. 45m (8) From right of the belay move up a few metres, then traverse left past bolt runner to arête/ridge. Up ridge 30m past 4 bolts. Walk across rightwards to bolt on little buttress. Over this and walk 10m+ (no bolt protection) and scramble through small bushes up easy crack into cave to DBB.

  5. 21m (12) From belay start to the right. Up wall trending left past 4 bolts. Climb onto large blocks at top. They seem OK. And traverse right passing bolt that protects the second to DBB.

  6. 26m (8) Clip bolt on right of belay. Stand on rock thing and up. Follow ridge with a few bolts to top. DBB.

FA: Hayden Brotchie and Jenny Bradford

13Trad 150m
14 Eeyore's Alternate

FA: Hayden Brotchie and Angie Bishop

15Unknown 55m
15 ** Black Snake Moan 22Unknown 200m
16 * Voyteks Corner 24Unknown 150m

1.3.5. Leura Fitness Center 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Kitty V5Boulder
2 J_Lo's insane pumpfest link up V5Boulder
3 DOD's weak ass variant of J_Lo's insane pumpfest link up V3Boulder
4 spEEd V4Boulder
5 The Crux of SuperCal V4Boulder
6 DYNO DUUUUUUDE!!!!! V3Boulder

1.3.6. East Face 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

From Sublime Point car-park walk along fence of house 142 Sublime Point Road (right side of carpark) until it ends after 50m (at wooden wall). Walk along wall for 15m then head straight downhill on faint track. This track enters the bush at a couple of gnarled banksai trees. Follow track steeply downhill for 80m on faint ridge past a few large tree stumps until it ends at top of small cliffline. Turn right and head down mossy ferny steep gully then go left under small cliffline. 20m along under this cliff turn right and go straight downhill aiming for the edge of the cliff just below. Look for ringbolts just over the edge on a slab. It's only 5 minutes from the car to the top of the cliff!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Subliminal

Rap 15m from double rings to ledge and another set of ring anchors. Fix one 70m rope to these and rap off insanely exposed edge. Kick your way down clipping some of the bolts to keep connected to the wall. 65m down is a very small belay ledge above a huge roof over on the right. Belay here!

22Sport 80m, 25

1.4. Katoomba Area 615 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.294779, -33.722661

Unique Features And Strengths:

The closest worthwhile cliffs to sydney, home to the jewel of the Blue mountains, Diamond Falls.

1.4.1. The Three Sisters 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Aid and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.314819, -33.736191

1.4.1.1. Honeymoon Point 4 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.314933, -33.735202

1.4.1.2. Eastern Block 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Unknown and Sport
1.4.1.3. East Face 4 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Unknown and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.315319, -33.735992

1.4.1.4. Southern Routes 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.314478, -33.736410

1.4.1.5. Halfway Ledge 1 route in Cliff
Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.314224, -33.734849

1.4.2. Echo Point 39 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.305977, -33.731131

1.4.2.1. Echo Point Walls 28 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.308681, -33.731123

1.4.2.2. Malaita Wall 11 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.299765, -33.732393

1.4.3. Dogface 26 routes in Crag

Summary:
Aid, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.295655, -33.732123

Description:© (Macciza)

It used to be called DogFace -then it fell down in the '30s. Quality choss in a class of it's own. Don't believe everything you hear, unless they have been there - remember, this is the stuff that didn't fall down in the last landslide, so it's gotta be pretty good .. . doesn't it ? ?.

Approach:© (Macciza)

Below Cyclorama Point, Cliff Drive, Sth Kat.

1.4.3.1. Lower Wall 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Aid
1.4.3.2. Left Wall 4 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad and Unknown
1.4.3.3. Main Wall 8 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Aid and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.295620, -33.732203

Description:© (Macciza)

The Landlide Face

Routes listed right to left.

Start are mostly marked.

1.4.3.4. Gorgo Wall 4 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Aid
1.4.3.5. Right Wall 4 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad and Aid
1.4.3.6. The Citadel 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Aid and Trad
Description:© (Macciza)

First landslide reached when walking in to The Landslide.

Approach:© (Macciza)

Head down Furbers Steps, near Scenic Railway then right along Landslide track. The Citadel is a few hundred metres along, an ominous gash in the cliff . .

Descent Notes:© (Macciza)

Walk up hill to Cliff Drive.

History:© (Macciza)

Ewbank!

1.4.4. Narrow Neck 205 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Aid and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.284414, -33.731330

Description:© (mjw)

Probably the oldest climbing area in the Bluey's. A little bit forgotten about these days but still very worthwhile. Take a lot of care with the fixed protection. Hopefully at some point in the future there will be funds available to 'renew' this area.

Approach:© (mjw)

On the first 'Narrow Neck'. Easily accesable via public transport and a short walk. Find Cliff Drive, turn off this into Glenraphael Drive (as for 'Diamond Falls' and Redledge Pass, take this for approximately 1km to a small parking area. The crag is accessed down a gated fire trail on the right side of the road. The southern end of the crag can be accessed by walking a little further to where the fence comes into contact with the road. The most popular access point is via the fire trail and pumping station down through Dixon's Ladders. Note: these ladders were partially removed by the waterboard, they have been reinstated at various times by climbers but may not actually reach the ground when you get there! A short hand over hand or abseil may be required.

The climbs are split into the area South of the ladders and the area North of the ladders.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Life After Big Glassy

Easily up to top of block to FH on the undercut wall to the left. Traverse left to a ring bolt then up the arete past another ring on the left (can confirm this will hold a fall...) to the crux just after you clip the final ring. From here easily up the arete to where it meets Tal, top out as for Tal. A 0.4 Camalot, and a set of nuts, as well as a couple of bolt plates are a must for the climbing after the last ring.

Don't forget you need a trad belay on top: 0.5, #3 Camalots and a few nuts will do nicely.

Start: Start at the block 6 or 8m left of Toll, at the ugly scratched X (not made by FA party).

FA: Hugh Ward, James Castrission, Luke Merrett, 2009

20Trad 50m
2 *** Gypsy Ritalin

Up onto ledge then right and up arete and wall to lower off under roof

Start: As for heart Attack

FA: Mikl, 2011

22Sport 18m, 11
1.4.4.1. Pumping Station Track 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.287524, -33.729738

1.4.4.2. Main Bivouac Ledge 14 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Aid and Trad
1.4.4.3. Right Side 69 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad, Aid and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.288498, -33.727277

Description:© (mjw)

The area to the right of the ladder descent. The routes listed LEFT to RIGHT starting at the far end of the crag.

1.4.4.4. Left Side 114 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad, Aid and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.282489, -33.733079

1.4.4.5. Castle Head/Ruined Castle Ridge 1 route in Cliff
Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.287862, -33.756649

1.4.5. Diamond Falls 87 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.277643, -33.739577

Description:© (Ashy)

Introduction -

'Diamond Falls' is located on the western side of 'Narrow Neck' Plateau near Katoomba. A mixture of climbing styles are catered for though the areas popularity is definitely due to the hard sports climbing available. At present 3 sectors have been developed:

Sector 1 - 'Left Side' 'Access' Ledge: There are a number of relatively easy multi-pitch climbs requiring mixed gear on the walls above the walking track. These climbs are rarely repeated, route descriptions are vague and any fixed gear should be regarded as questionable. There are also a few moderately graded sports routes around 'Uncooth Youth' and 'Diamond Jack' and given the development of late these areas are becoming a worth while destination in there own right, no longer just a quick warm up on the way to 'Mr Wall'.

Sector 2 - Mr Wall: This wall is one of the jewels in the crown of Blue Mountains sports climbing and contains possibly the highest concentration of hard sports routes in 'Australia'. There is a fantastic selection of steep climbs ranging in grade from 26 through to 35 on immaculate rock.

Sector 3 - Frog Buttress: This is a small buttress 200m past 'Mr Wall' that contains a couple of sports climbs.

Conditions -

The sun hits the crag around 2PM.

The crag also catches the wind and can get very cold so take some warm clothes.

Approach:© (Ashy)

Access -

From Katoomba head down Katoomba St towards 'Echo Point' and turn right into Cliff Dr and follow the 'Scenic Drive 5' signs. Just past the Landslide 'Lookout', turn left onto the dirt road Glenraphael Dr which heads out along the 'Narrow Neck' Plateau. Follow this for a couple of Kms until the road is blocked by a locked gate. If your driving from Blackheath there is an alternate approach via 'Narrow Neck' Rd. (see map below).

There are two possible approaches to the crags. The first simply follows a steep track through the scrub to the start of the access ledge. All crags can be approached this way. The second involves following a track to the top of 'Mr Wall' and then rapping in.

Approach 1: From the gate walk back along the road for 50m to a sandy track on the western side. Initially there are a few tracks that crisscross one another but after about a minute you should be on an obvious track heading out and down onto a peninsula. The track then continues steeply down the gully and after 10-15 minutes reaches the base of the upper cliff line. Turn left and follow the access ledge track for another 5-10 minutes to reach 'Mr Wall'. 'Frog Buttress' is another 5-10 minutes walk further on past 'Mr Wall'.

Approach 2: From the gate follow a vague track heading west and down through the scrub. After a bit of scrambling you should arrive at the rap point above 'Mr Wall'.

1.4.5.1. Unity Area 39 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.278128, -33.738131

1.4.5.2. Mr Wall 44 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.277764, -33.740464

Description:© (Ashy)

Environmental Issue: Please do not leave quickdraws on routes. The walk in to Mr Wall takes 12 minutes if you're psyched, or 15-20 if you care about your knees.

In the past, for convenience, it has been a common practise for climbers to leave quick draws on routes for extended periods of time. Unfortunately 'Diamond Falls' is often buffeted by very strong winds and as a result this practice has led to significant rock scarring on several popular routes. Climbers are therefore urged to no longer continue this practise.

1.4.5.3. Frog Buttress 4 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.275514, -33.740749

Description:© (Ashy)

Frog Buttress is located on the opposite side of the waterfall amphitheatre from 'Mr Wall'. From 'Mr Wall' it is a 5 to 10 minute walk through thick and often wet bush. Even if you don't climb here it is worth the walk just for the scenery and to get a different view and perspective of the 'Diamond Falls' crags.

1.4.6. Red Ledge Pass 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.267350, -33.746489

Description:

Situated on the Narrow Neck Plateau. Redledge Pass is an historic aboriginal pass from the valley. Shale miners and farmers have been using it since the late 1800’s. It is in the Blue Mountains National Park

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Parakis

The first route you come to after crossing the creek and traverseing the first ledge. Just left of an arete on grey rock

FFA: N. Harrowell, 2003

18Sport 20m
2 * Yage

On a bulging reddish wall with strange mud markings approximately 100m past Parakis. Reached by a small 'dyna-bolt' protected traverse. Clip and unclip as you go. Belayer can stay on the ground. The big chimney to the left was soloed -many times.

FFA: M. Warren, 2003

21Sport 20m
3 * Andys 24

FFA: A. Richardson, 2003

24Sport 12m
4 * Katalyst

Right of 2 routes up fixed rope at the end of a very narrow traverse ledge about another 100m on. this traverse was equipped with a fixed rope but it may not be here at present

FFA: P. Sage, 2003

25Sport 20m
5 Its Bakin

Execellent boulder route with the crux close to the ground up katalyst, to 2 bolt then, head rightwards on u bolts

FFA: A. Richardson, 2007

27Sport 15m
6 *** Phill open project

A small batman to beat the choss, then climb leftwards on reasonable rock to a small but obvious cave. from here the route begins and is fiesty!!! crimp and snatch your way up the awesome baked red rock to a no hands rest and another boulder problem, do this and its in the bag!! 20 meters right of its bakin at a scoop in the rock

FA: P. Sage

33Sport 30m
7 Shooting Blanks

Great climbing, no stopper crux. Start as for Phils project

FFA: L. Cossey

29Sport 20m
8 Run Come Save Me

An execellent route that offers consistantly difficult climbing inbetween large jugs!! mandatory climbing at grade 26 inbetween the top 4 bolts, cunliminating in an all out dyno at the 2nd to last move, cements the route's classical status guarentees an exciting crux. 20 meters right of phils project, at the base of the wall's obvious flake system. batman start

FFA: V. Day, Z Vertrees, 2006

31Sport 25m, 9
9 Brand New Second Hand

As for heatseeker to the first crux above the obvious break, here break left and follow the slopers, pinches, crimps and jugs, oh and pockets!! up the awesome baked red wall, that only red ledge offers.

FFA: V. Day, 2006

31Sport 27m
10 *** HeatSeeker

Rad rad route, up some of the best rock around, quality bouldering with jugs to seperate the difficulties. a sustained finish. A great toilet bowl feature, batman or climb the mud to the first bolt.

FFA: G. Miller, 2006

32Sport 23m
11 *** Zac's Project

Hard hard hard, all the way, many boulder problems with hard clips, classic really!! right of heat seeker,

FA: Z. Vertrees

35Sport 25m
12 *** Blood Shot

Batman to the first bolt, then boulder past 3 crux sections, involving burly powerful arm work!! enjoy! this is some of the finest steep rock in the blue mountains. start at small tree on the steep section before the cliff swings around the corner.

FFA: V. Day, 2006

30Sport 20m
13 ** Fuego

Execellent steep climbing, with an awesomely body powerful crux, and all out dyno to finish it off! this route was bolted after work in summer and has some great memories attached to it! 5 meters right of bloodshot , around the corner. batman to the first bolt and go!! Back jump to clean

FFA: E. Jerg, 2006

30Sport 20m

1.4.7. Farside 39 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.263437, -33.752323

Description:

A very good sunny day alternative as it stays in the shade to late in the day. Not a crag that you want to spend any time at if its windy or or cold. 15 deg's and about area. All info thanks from the hard work of Steve Grkovic and Megan Turnbull at www.BMTopos.com Paper guide can be printed from site.

Approach:

40mins on the fire road and 15min single track approach.

History:

A massive thanks to all those who help develop this area.

1.4.7.1. Critter Crag 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

A few routes on this wall including the rope stretching Seething Beetles at 45m.

Approach:

Right facing out of access rope approach.

1.4.7.2. Main Wall 30 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

The left end of the wall less steep more crimpy affairs with the right end being the steep pumper zone.

Approach:

Left facing out of access rope approach.

1.4.7.3. Outskirts 4 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

A very impressive wall but sadly only a few starts.

Approach:

A 2 minute walk pass main wall.

1.4.8. Rhum Dhu 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Aid and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.287532, -33.717750

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Burgundy Buttress 15Unknown 83m
2 Dry Sherry Pinnacle 11Unknown 40m
3 Terrier 1 16Unknown 100m
4 Barassa Pearl 13Unknown 51m
5 Lager & Lime 13Unknown 170m
6 Night Cap 13Unknown 50m
7 IOU 16Unknown 35m
8 Rhum Cognac 10Unknown 60m
9 Gin and Tonic 6Unknown 40m
10 Baby Sham 13Unknown 60m
11 Cocktail Buttress 10Unknown 63m
12 Whisky Gully 16Unknown 49m
13 Peacock Gully 14Unknown 83m
14 Triffid 15 M1Aid 120m
15 * Shandy

Pitch 1: Easy face climbing straight up with some beautiful views. Stay on route or risk hitting some chossy rock.

Pitch 2: Traverse into corner.

Pitch 3: Walk along a ledge. Rope up to be safe.

Pitch 4: easy face climbing up the line of ring bolts just left (facing the cliff) of the first boars head abseil.

14Sport 99m, 6
16 ** Dirty Rotten Pig

Multi-pitch sport climb. ~100m. Grades 19,19,17,14. All protection is ring or U bolts, no carrots.

Access path is 60m SOUTH of Cahill's Lookout on Cliff Drive, Katoomba. (access path: http://goo.gl/maps/1TsvL)

Take at least 14 draws. Be prepared for hanging belay, take lots of locking ‘biners. Twin or double ropes recommended for long abseils and sharp ironstone.

Orientation: the crag runs more-or-less NORTH-SOUTH. The access path is the EAST side of the cliff, the Megalong Valley below is on the WEST side of the cliff.

  1. Follow access path until you reach 2 chains. This is where you will start and finish.

  2. Rappel ~20m down from chains to the floor of the gully below. (On your way down, scan on your left (if facing rock) for U-bolts which will be protection for the climb out.)

  3. Walk SOUTH, following the rock face on the WEST. Do not take the much steeper, narrow northern path. (On the walk down, try to spot the single U-bolt placed high up on the western face, about half way down the gully hill. You will use it for rappelling out.)

  4. Follow the track around to the right until you have almost done a complete circle. You will pass a U-bolt on the right at about head-height. You will find a very windy chimney/rock split.

  5. You need to pass through the chimney to access 3 rappel chains hidden from view. You can solo this part or setup belay from previous U-bolt. 2 U-bolts in chimney, 1 outside chimney.

  6. Rappel down from 3 chains. You should head WEST when you lower. Try to spot the 2 rappel chains below you and aim for them. You may rappel ~15m to lower 2 rappel chains, or skip those chains and continue ~25m (~40m total) to a single ring-bolt chest-height on SOUTH face of wall.

  7. Rappel ~10m to 2 rappel chains on edge of cliff. (this step can be skipped, but be wary of running out 50m rope)

  8. Rappel ~40m from 2 chains to solid ground.

  9. Following the cliff on your right, head WEST then NORTH along path until you reach U-bolts. This is the start of the ascent. If you reach a nose, or tree with slings around it you have gone too far. BE CAREFUL, YOU WILL BE ON A CLIFF FACE. 200m FALL BELOW.

  10. 1st Pitch:19:~40m. Start is difficult and belay is next to ledge so make sure belayer is on safety. Gets run-out. Finish at 3 U-bolts. Setup hanging belay.

  11. 2nd Pitch:19:~25m. Watch for funnel web spiders; they are deadly. Gets run-out. Finish at 3 U-bolts. Setup hanging belay.

  12. 3rd Pitch:17:~35m. Really easy but be careful of sharp ironstone, it can sever rope. Twin or double rope recommended. Gets run-out. Finish at multiple U-bolts. Setup top belay.

  13. Walk EAST on the top of the cliff and walk to the left (north) of the first pinnacle, over the sketchy looking ledge. Follow path to the right (south) of the second pinnacle, which is the "Boars Head" rock feature.

  14. Follow the cliff around the southern side of Boars Head and you will find the gully from the first rappel. A U-bolt is mounted hip-height to allow rappel.

  15. Rappel or solo down into the gully.

  16. Climb a ~25m grade 14 climb back to 2 rappel chains at the start. Climb is located immediately to the NORTH of the rappel in Step 2. Climb is runout and first bolt can be hard to find, you may need to solo about 2m to find first bolt. Setup top belay.

Note: this guide does not distinguish between ring bolts and U-bolts. If U-bolt is listed, ring bolt might be present.

Guide by Paul Hauner and Joel Griggs. February 2014.

FA: Ness, Mikl, Jody Powell

19Sport 95m
17 Tooth & Nail (Boars Head) 17Unknown 70m
18 Green Salad Gully 7Unknown
19 Whisky Chaser 12Unknown
20 West End 10Unknown 43m
21 Humbaba 15Unknown 30m
22 ** Desperately Seeking Stephen 18Unknown 45m
23 Temperance Arete 8Unknown 130m
24 Intemperance Arete 8Unknown 83m
25 Bloody Mary LHS 12 M4Aid 33m
26 Bloody Mary RHS 15 M6Aid 47m
27 Tia Maria 15 M5Aid 41m
28 *** Cul De Sac / Cull The Sac / Call to Zac

Start as for Catastrophe Corner, to roof then traverse left under roof and follow line to top . . . 'Cull The Sac' variant. Climb to ledge at half-height ~23. Sling-horn to lower, then flick it off to retrieve.

FA: Ewbank 18 M4

FFA: Zac Vertrees, Macciza, 2012

31Trad 30m
29 ** Catastrophe Corner

Start at corner capped by triangular roof left of main waterfall. diagonally right to bolt and up to ledge, then corner system up to right side of roof. Follow corner/crack up to end then left on sloping shelf past bolt (old belay) and up groove to ledge past old threads and traverse off left.

FA: Ewbank,18 M2, 1969

FFA: Macciza, Zac Vertrees, 2006

22Mixed 30m, 2

1.4.9. Nellies Glen 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.286260, -33.710103

Approach:© (willmonks)

Location description in the old SRC guide is pretty woeful. The google map coords entered for this crag (click on "view map" below) are a guess and could be a km or more off! Anyone with better info, please contribute!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 High Tide 23Unknown 50m
2 On Any Sunday Day 22Unknown 100m

1.4.10. Elphinstone 55 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271566, -33.710951

Unique Features And Strengths:

High grades. High quality.

Description:

This crag will prove to be the citadel of hard climbing in the Mountains. Pitches are generally around 30-35m, uncharacteristically sustained and pumpy, on bullet proof rock.

The main wall, facing broadly south-east, receives sun in the summer till mid morning, and not at all during the winter. Dumbo Love sector faces south-west and catches an hour or so of winter sun in the mid to late afternoon, and up to three hours on summer afternoons. Though in the depth of winter Elphingstone can be untenably cold for skinny sports climbers, it has generally proven to be climbable all year round, even in summer with shaded climbing to be found throughout the day.

Many of the routes have lower offs considerably longer than the route itself as the ground falls away below the starting points. A 70m rope is paramount rather than prudent.

Approach:

From Blackheath turn right at the Explorers Rd before the 'Explorers Tree'. This is a loop road with two entry points and restrictions on what lanes you can enter from and exit to. Coming from Katoomba you will turn at the Exporer Tree itself, albeit more of a large stump! Turn into Pulpit Hill rd and park at the end. Walk through the gate for about 10min. At a point where you can see into the valley to the left and across to Narrow Neck peninsula , walk up the next hill. You will find a cairn again a small pine tree on the left. Walk down this steepening track for 5min until it terminates at the cliff edge. There is an obvious rap in chain on a large boulder. You will need a 40m rope to fix and rap in with. Use the rope capture fixtures to stop your rope rubbing. Climb out using the via ferrata (not glued in) and an appropriate device (like a minitraxion). Do not solo the via ferrata!

Ethic:

There are many CLOSED PROJECTS in both sectors. As a matter of respect, stay off them unless you have permission from the person who bolted it or the project becomes listed as open.

1.4.10.1. Main wall 29 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271089, -33.711436

Description:

Many routes are 35m+ and will make your forearms feel like they have been bludgeoned by blood. Sun till 11am in the summer, and none in the winter. Wind proof gear is a must in the winter.

Approach:

After rapping in, walk down the track and turn right. The wall looms over you after about 50m. Mind the cliff edge, there are spots where you wouldn't want to trip!

Descent Notes:

Mind your rope length as routes often lower off beyond the cliff edge, or at the very least significantly lower than where the route starts. You will need a 70m ROPE MINIMUM!

1.4.10.2. Dumbo Love Sector 22 routes in Sector
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.272484, -33.710218

Description:

Full of great routes in the mid to late 20's. With the odd exception, these routes are long and involved.

Approach:

At the base of the rap, head down and take a left through the jungle. After a couple of minutes traverse above a large boulder and cross the creek. Traverse the far side of the creek and around the right side of the large boulder slightly downhill.

Descent Notes:

Use a 70m rope.

1.4.10.3. Gay Paris Wall 4 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271554, -33.710526

Description:

From the bottom of the rap station head down the path and turn (stage) left. After about 50m look up and see the big orangey, black, polka dot white roofy sustained goodness this wall has to offer. March up through the Kokoda to the base of the wall. Routes start a few meters off the ground after climbing up rungs through seeping rock. Don't let the bottom of these routes deter you from trying them. They are set to be mega classics!! Take care when walking around the base of this cliff. Try your best to be as low impact as possible on the vegetation and watch your footing. There are some potholes in the veg that could bring you unstuck quickly!

1.4.11. Pulpit Hill 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.268199, -33.712618

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Scorpio 16Unknown 49m
2 Aquarius 14Unknown 28m
3 Capricorn 15Unknown 33m
4 Taurus 12Unknown 40m
5 Sagittarius 15Unknown 43m
6 Aries 16Unknown 57m
7 Zodiac Crack 13Unknown 45m
8 Leo 9Unknown 47m
9 Virgo 15Unknown 41m
10 Libra 14Unknown 43m
11 Easy Gully 10Unknown 33m
12 Taken In 11Unknown 40m
13 The Elysian Field 12Unknown 40m
14 The Oracle 14Unknown 37m
15 Sorcerers Apprentice 11Unknown 53m
16 Forever Amber 11Unknown 23m
17 Chimney Corner 8Unknown 40m
18 The Country Boys 9Unknown 40m
19 Pandora 11Unknown 53m

1.4.12. The Egg 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.266477, -33.708769

Description:© (mjw)

Like 'Diamond Falls' and 'Gateway' this crag attracts the wind. In summer the sun hits the crag at about 2pm. Funky sport climbing. An excellent find.

Useful Info: No matter what the weather is like at the car take a jacket or jumper - and a hat! Its wilderness so please treat it with respect. No new routes, no cairns.

Approach:© (mjw)

The Egg is situated on the Elphinstone Plateau approximately 5mins from Katoomba and 15mins from Blackheath. If approaching from Blackheath turn right at the Explorers Rd – do not attempt to turn into Explorers Rd at the 'Marked Tree'. 20mins easy walk then 7mins down a steep track. The track to the crag is not marked as such (see info and access). Stay on the main fire trail, dont take any right turns, until you walk past a cleared area with a 'lean to' in it (ruins). Turn right 10m past this area - the track straight ahead leads to the Trig Station and Esgate's Ladders - walk aprox 140m and look for track through rocks and logs. Track is well marked after this.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Ike the Butcher

Steepness.

Start: 5m right of the sign.

FA: lloyd wishart, 2006

26Sport 15m
2 ** Funky Monkey

The warm up...if you're a pumper. Jug along with glee.

FA: C.Coghill, 2003

24Sport 14m
3 ** Glow

Doesnt get as much attention as 'Headshot' but just as good. Perhaps a little more thuggy?

FA: M.Warren

26Sport 18m
4 ** Headshot

Took 5 days to bolt with much head scratching, almost didn't happen. Thought it would be 21. Maybe it is?

FA: M.Warren

27Sport 17m
5 *** Red Demon

The warm up if you arn't a pumper. The most popular route here. Good climbing!

FA: C.Coghill, 2004

24Sport 14m
6 * Five Point Exploding Heart

Is solid for the grade now with the direct finish.

FA: L.Cossey

28Sport 20m
7 ** The Deal with Space

Like a Cornetto...no boring parts!

FA: D Smith

24Sport 15m
8 * Tornado

FA: C. Coghill, 2005

24Sport 20m
9 Project

Stick clip ring on the lip and pass rope through the hooks in the roof.

FA: L. Cossey, 2000

Sport
10 *** The Floating Line (homage to an angel)

Everything you don't want your life's work to be. Awesome line, a grade harder after every move, run-out and slopey!

FA: Vision and bolting courtesy of Chris Coghill

FA: T.Wolf, M.Warren., 2007

28Sport 22m

1.4.13. Boganville 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.262221, -33.764597

Description:© (nmonteith)

West facing sport climbing up steep orange rock. Similar in style to 'Bowens Creek'. Route names are from Simon Carter's guidebook and route descriptions are a mix of that guide and recent first hand ascents. Many of the grades in the Carter guide are wrong as they were guesstimates.

This crag is in National Park, please behave accordingly. In particular do not damage any vegetation, as there are some rare endangered plants which live near this crag and on the walk-in and NOWHERE ELSE. If climbers destroy the plants' peace, National Parks will probably do the same to climbers - don't stuff it for the rest of us!

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From 'Diamond Falls' carpark walk/ride along 'Narrow Neck' road for 50 minutes to obvious pine tree. Leave road there and follow foot-track downhill to cliff.

1.4.13.1. Left Wall 16 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:© (nmonteith)

Fantastic long steep routes with big holds. If you like to pump this place is the shnizzle.

1.4.13.2. Right Wall 12 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:© (nmonteith)

Steep and juggy with lots of bolts. Right side is chossy. Totally waterproof.

1.4.13.3. Fever Face 10 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

The crag to the right of the descent- facing the cliff

1.4.14. Little Italy 34 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.328503, -33.678036

Unique Features And Strengths:

Host to some very hard steep mountains routes in a unique canyon right near a great swimming hole.

Description:

2 sectors at present developed. Mostly hard climbing thru some steep territory. Many projects and many more lines to bolt.

Approach:

Located at Mini Ha Ha Falls, Katoomba. Follow the walking track past lookout, until the intersection for the falls. Head straight ahead here for the den, following track down to the creek and crossing creek up to the obvious cave and walls opposite. For sunny side, head to the right around the base of the cliff till you come to the routes, approx 5 mins from the track intersection.

History:

(Copyrite Breezy, Climb,org) Developed by a cast of thousands during 2004/05 with development no where near complete. There are some very old bolted routes (Carrigan era) at the actual falls, please do not climb these routes as the bolts are crap and locals swim at the falls quite regularly and unwanted attention may be gained. Also no new routes in this area either, please. Have some respect for the locals and bushwalkers if you do decide to climb here or bolt.

1.4.14.1. The Den 15 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.328433, -33.677529

Description:

Steep sport climbing on good rock. The 27 and 28 are among the best at the grade in the mountains. Great sporty bolting.

Approach:

15- 30mins walk

1.4.14.2. Sunnyside 19 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.328261, -33.678359

Description:

Varied sport climbing The Sunny Side Climbs listed Right to Left as you approach them.

Approach:

Turn right at the bottom of the stairs following the cliff line. Opposite side of creek to the den

1.5. Medlow Bath 198 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.277210, -33.680774

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Yurtle the Turtle

Carrots. Grade only a rumour. Looks good.

Start: Behind bushy tree on north-facing orange wall.

23Unknown 20m
2 Carnivore Corner Unknown
3 High Drama Unknown

1.5.1. Three Brothers 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.275349, -33.680758

Description:

The Three Brothers and Flying Fox crags are long-forgotten trad crags with routes detailed (vaguely) in the 1997 Sydney Rockies Guidebook. Now there is also some modern bolt protected sport and mixed routes. Funky features and good rock make for charismatic climbing, though the older lines are pretty dirty. Access is relatively quick and straightforward, and the shorter walls here have a friendly feel with great views and a variety of aspects. The newer Pole 28 area has mainly sport climbs and has grown along two sections of cliff above and below each other. ‘Lower’ Pole 28 is technically part of the old Flying Fox crag.

Access

From the highway turn onto Bellevue Cres, 100m south of the service station at Medlow Bath. Pass Delmonte Ave then before the right hand bend turn left down a rough dirt road, park on Bellevue if your car has low clearance. Follow the dirt road downhill over numerous water-bars, a dry creek crossing filled with river rocks, and note powerlines crossing overhead with a green power-pole on left – you are aiming for the second pole (visible ahead) accessed by steep left-hand turn a little further on with parking under the powerlines. The access road is not great for cars with particularly low clearance, but an average 2WD should manage with careful driving and a few minor scrapes. You can always discreetly park on Bellevue and walk 10 min extra.

Left of the closest power-pole in this parking spot is the start of a very obvious and well manicured track. Walk 150m or less to a fork, then turn left and head downhill 30m or so to a slabby step-down with the Three Brothers pagodas in front of you. The track swings sharp right here another 30m, then just before a sharp left- hand bend take a discreet track with a cairn on the right. After 10 or 15 metres of flat ground a series of switchbacks descend down short ledges (look for cairns) into a broad gully. The track hairpins hard left at a tall white gum and down a tighter gully between two short walls, before opening onto the half-way terrace between the upper and lower cliff-lines. This is the base of the upper descent gully – 5 mins from car.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Brothers K

From the base of the upper descent gully, on the approach to The Three Brothers (lower cliff), turn right and walk 40m. Continue past closed project on a steep orange nose (red tag first bolt) to Brothers K, up the centre of a narrow shady wall with an undercut start and a ferny corner to the right.

Stick-clip first bolt for sweet boulder moves through undercut start on good face holds, then pleasant wall climbing on funky features to a thin finish over the bulge. Double U-bolt lower off.

FA: Tom Hepner, Hannah Hepner, Tom ‘T-bor’ Thomson., 2010

22Sport 18m, 5
2 Kalifornication

Short, steep orange nose with U-bolts, 20m right (south) of Brothers K. Closed Project.

Unknown Project
3 Easy Oasy 6Unknown 30m
4 Easy Oasy Arete 7Unknown 40m
5 Green Gully Arete 9Unknown 40m
6 The Great Escape 15Unknown 37m
7 Gung Ho 15Unknown 13m
8 Red Crack 12Unknown 50m
9 * White Wall 13Unknown 50m
10 Blue Chimney 12Unknown 53m
11 * Alfonso Dominico Jones

Mixed route: 4 bolts, single set cams (0.3 – 2 Camalot), medium wire or two. Lower-off.

Walk 30m south from descent gully: past the initials ‘RC’ (Red Crack), around to a striking red wall and shady chimney. Starts one metre out from the corner, on the right-hand face at a thin crack, and a few metres left of the white ‘BC’ (Blue Chimney) initials.

Stem for several metres with smaller cams and a medium wire in a strange slot feature, trend right past 2 bolts and small cam, to ledge (no. 2 Camalot) then nice finish up wall and arête past 2 bolts to lower off.

FA: Tom Hepner, 2010

19Mixed 22m, 4
12 The Seventh Labour 15 M2Aid 40m
13 * Crankenfurten

From the base of the lower descent gully follow the cliff line along to the right (north) for about 100m past undercut black slabs and eventually a tall yellow wall capped by a roof. At the far end of this wall is the blocky orange buttress of Crankenfurten.

Sport Route: 10 bolts to lower-off. A funky and gymnastic route with a thoughtful crux. Starts at a flared groove in the yellow wall.

Up groove for several metres then onto left wall, up through thoughtful blocky bulges on nose (after clipping 6th bolt, unclip 5th for less rope drag) then aesthetic grey & orange face to lower-off.

FA: Tom Hepner, 2010

20Sport 23m, 10

1.5.2. Flying Fox Area 30 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.276059, -33.678788

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Underworld 14Unknown 30m
2 Cerberus 16 M1Aid 50m
3 Orpheus Arete Variant 17Unknown 33m
4 Orpheus Arete 15Unknown 57m
5 Embossed Carbuncle 14Unknown 53m
6 Fibbertigibbet 15Unknown 53m
7 Who's Lead? 10Unknown 47m
8 Time Out 13Unknown 50m
9 * Copernicus 17Unknown 53m
10 Tycho Bahe

FA: J. Smoothy, P. Butcher

17Unknown
11 Transvestite 14Unknown 60m
12 Pshcho Arete 10Unknown 33m
13 Megalomaniac 13Unknown 53m
14 Hair 8Unknown 50m
15 Skinhead 8Unknown 37m
16 Riff-Raff 8Unknown 33m
17 No Time Climb 11Unknown 47m
18 As You Like It 12Unknown 37m
19 As You Like It Direct Start 18Unknown 10m
20 Nymphomaniac 13Unknown 43m
21 The Homo 12Unknown 40m
22 Sultry 12Unknown 40m
23 Acquarius 8Unknown 30m
24 Deceptor Arete 12Unknown 27m
25 Blowfly 11Unknown 27m
26 * Contemplation 15Unknown 40m
27 Inexperience 7Unknown 37m
28 Delilah 16 M2Aid 40m
29 Easy Day 9Unknown 40m
30 Escapism 11Unknown 46m

1.5.3. The Sunbath 30 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.273915, -33.672555

Description:© (aca_admin)

Park at the west end of Belgravia St, 'Medlow Bath'. Follow a well trod track west down the hill for about 300m. When you reach a circular concrete "bath" (full of leaf litter and rubbish, not water), you've gone about 50m past the walk-down. Go back to the walk-down and follow it down the gully. Pitang Wall is immediately on your right as you reach the bottom of the gully, 'Schwing' Wall is immediately to your left. 'Atoms in Action' area is 60-80m around right (north) of Pitang Wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The Sandpit

Just around the corner from Manana. Climbs described right to left

1 Wok Hay

FA: P.Mort, G.Short

22Sport 15m
2 ** Poultry in Motion

FA: G.Short, P.Mort

19Sport 15m
3 * Viper

FA: M.Ashmore, Jacqui

21Sport 15m
4 * Loki

FA: G.Short, P.Mort

18Trad 12m
5 Hootenanny

FA: G.Short, P.Mort

13Trad 12m

Katoomba Brothers area

6 ** Mañana

Straight up the vertical face mostly on jugs with two hands free ledges in first half. Thin start then consistent on good holds to the crux, which is just above the last bolt. Finish under roof. Well protected but with a little run out at the top just to make it interesting! 8 BR's to a 2 RB belay.

Start: Start 40m left of KB at grey face with a black streak up high, topped by a small roof.

FA: Peter Chaly, Niall Doherty, 2003

14Sport 22m, 8
7 Kaboomba Brothers

4 carrots up the slab (take brackets). The first move is tricky for those at the grade.

FA: B. Junge, 1994

4Sport 10m, 4
8 Wanker? / Spook Eyes

FA: Ed Rutherford (Route is Called "Spook Eyes")

17Sport 10m
9 Spook Eyes

Line of ring bolts up hanging slab. Apparently the crack 1m to the right is off route.

Start: 2m right (facing in) of 'Kaboomba Brothers'.

FA: Ed Rutherford, 2006

19Sport 10m
10 Spook Eyes (Direct)

Go up orange streak, face moves only, no use of crack or arete. Fairly contrived, but a nice sequence of moves.

FA: Ed Rutherford

19Sport 8m
11 * Radioactive Man

FA: J. Smoothy, 1995

20Sport 12m
12 Atoms in Action

FA: J. Smoothy, 1995

25Sport 12m

The Block/Pintang Crag

13 Pitang Pitang

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

14Sport 12m, 6
14 Ole Biscuit Barrel

Up the small arete for 3 bolts, then follow the ramp diagonally R to DRB lower-off with shackles.

Start: The leftmost route on the wall.

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

13Sport 15m, 5
15 Cardinal Fang

Straight up the face, crossing OBB and sharing one of its bolts, to chain/ring lower off. 5 BR's in total.

Start: Start 2m right of OBB.

FA: Niall Doherty

17Sport 15m, 5
16 * Strange Karma

If you are tall this will feel like an 18

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

20Sport 15m
17 unknown 22Sport 20m
18 Gas, Food, Lodging

Central worn orange streak. Easy start up small left facing corner to blank finish. A hold has broken off this move so either dyno this end move (grade 24+) or dodge right a metre to sloping pockets (grade 22).

FA: A. Farquar, 1994

22Sport 20m
19 * Old Salt

Fun climb with nice moves, ive seen 2 ppl get flipped when falling just below the loweroffs - Dont let the rope go behind your legs!

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

18Sport 18m
20 Mainly Fine

After start trend right towards arete then up on dirty rock.

Start: 1m right of 'Old Salt'.

FA: Ed Rutherford

17Sport 16m

Schwing Wall

21 * Rum-Doodle / Rosco's Rotten Root

Corner left end of the well. Up crack then across to anchors

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

13Trad 15m
22 * It Goes!

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

22Sport 15m
23 ** Schwing
  1. 20m (18)

  2. 35m (18)

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

18Sport 55m
24 ** Schwing Pitch 1

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

18Sport 20m
25 * Schwing Pitch 2

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

15Sport 35m
26 * Empty Chairs

Up, staying right of S, after second RB up and traverse to third. 3 RBs to DRB lower off.

FA: Niall Doherty

19Sport 10m, 3
27 ** Just Boot It

Start: Around to the right of shwing.

FA: G. Trambaiolo

22Sport 15m
28 The Lottery of Latitude

Start: Left (facing out) around the corner from Schwing, 7m past Just Boot It. Belay ring at head height, at the start of the low roof.

Clip into the belay bolt! Desperate undercut grade 20 start, which was freed on FA. Best for leader to get a boost from the second, then leave a long sling hanging from the first piece of pro for the second to aid with when they come up. After that, grade 13 moves following shallow corner up until it steepens, then traverse right and slightly up to join halfway belay of Gimme Shelter. Good pro with threads and medium wires, bring a #4 Camalot for the first piece.

FA: Niall Doherty, Mike Patterson, 2006

13Trad 20m
29 * Gimme Shelter

10m right (facing in) of Just Boot It. Up light coloured chossy face, go right around roof, then up and left. Two pitches, or climb as one, lower to halfway anchor, then rap from that.

FA: Niall Doherty, Peter Chaly

19Sport 35m, 14
30 Gimme Shelter (P2 only)

Can be accessed via The Lottery of Latitude instead of GS P1.

FA: Niall Doherty, Peter Chaly

16Sport 20m

1.5.4. Sunbath Bouldering 0 routes in Cliff

1.5.5. Colliseum 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.274093, -33.673510

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pure Spirit

FA: P. Hardie, 1960

13Trad
2 Pure Spirit Variant

FA: B. Crouch, 1970

12Trad 55m
3 * Red Solo Cup

Definately climbed before, but no FA details. Listed as an unknown "thin crack ??" in Rockclimbs In the Upper Blue Mountains Second Edition.

The clean-looking thin corner crack just past Pure Spirit. Up thin corner, through sandy bulge, and up flared crack above.

Either continue up corner/face for another pitch back to Sunbath area, or rap off tree hanging out over cliff.

FFA: Ben Young (L), P. Thomson (S)., 2013

17Trad 20m
4 ** Love, Beauty and Danger

Base of climb GPS coordinates: S 33deg 40.331' E 150deg 16.499'

FA: P2 Niall Doherty, Rod Smith, 2006

FA: Niall Doherty (P1, P2), Rod Smith (second, P2), 2006

23Sport 45m, 20
5 Love, Beauty and Danger P1 only

FA: Niall Doherty

23Unknown 20m
6 Love, Beauty and Danger P2 only

FA: Niall Doherty, Rod Smith (second)

21Unknown 25m
7 * Shiver Me Timbers

FA: G. Bradbury, 1984

25 M1Aid 50m
8 ** Mixed Business

Sporty climbing up a linked series of features with a hard crux, and a 50:50 ratio of gear to bolts. Take doubles of Cams BD 0.50 to #3, and a single of wires/nuts.

Start up thin crack left of The Wake of the Flood. Up crack on gear and flake features, following the line of bolts in the middle of the wall (with gear along the way) to crack at the top of the wall, and up short corner-thing to anchors.

FA: Giles Bradbury, 2005

25Trad 50m
9 *** Wake of the Flood
  1. Crack to V-chimney, belay on ledge above Chimney. (20); 2. Steep crack to body-squeeze, belay on obvious ledge. (21); 3. Tricky finger crack to belay on old carrot bolts (23). Traverse 3m left (past a bolt) to new rap anchors and 1 x 50m rap to the ground.

New Rap Anchors installed 3m left of belay at end of WotF 3rd pitch. 1 x 50m Rap to the ground. - P.T, 16/03/2014.

FA: G. Bradbury, 1984

23Trad 45m
10 The Conflagration - CLOSED PROJECT

CLOSED PROJECT - PROJECT PAUL

Starts directly up the slab below the lower hand crack of TWotF. Up past carrot, 0.3, #1, 0.50 cams to hand crack. Up hand crack with 2 x #1 cam (can sub 1 x 0.75) and #4. Break left where crack splits up dihedral and obvious #1 cam placement. Stand high to clip bolt, then up finger crack to ledge. Left a move, then continue up past 7 more bolts following the line of the bolts to anchors on top ledge of stunning red wall. Can also continue up Mixed Business or The Wake of the Flood (P3) to top out.

Set by Paul Thomson, 17th Sep

Mixed Project 50m, 8
11 Ginsling 13Unknown
12 Lost at Birth 23Unknown 35m
13 Zucchini Crack / Finnegans Wake

The hand to finger crack up the sandy wall well past Wake Of The Flood. Originally called Zucchini Crack when first climbed. Re-climbed recently and accidentally claimed as an FA under the name Finnegans Wake (as per the Blue Mountains guidebook). Has gotten harder over the years because of the terribly sandy rock.

Hand & finger jamming, then into incipient seam to tree (Finnegans Wake ends here), then further up crack to where it ends, and step left and follow the line through two more bulges (crux) to the top of the cliff.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, Mark Burton, 1980

21Trad 25m
14 * Baird’s Route

FA: W. Baird, 2000

26Sport 50m

1.5.6. Valley Farm 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Unknown, Aid and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.273407, -33.672310

Description:© (Niall)

The cliffline that runs underneath 'The Sunbath' area, away from the Coliseum and towards 'Sooty Crag'.

Useful Info: 'Access' by going down the steps and ladders from 'The Sunbath'. The top of the descent is at the end of the track that runs underneath 'Old Salt' and adjacent climbs.

Approach:© (Niall)
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Big Easy

Starts off the far left end of the ledge which is at the bottom of the steel ladder halfway down the valley descent.

FA: Glenn Short, Pam Mort

15Mixed 17m, 8
2 Virgins with Rifles

Starts halfway out the ledge that is at the bottom of the steel ladder halfway down the valley descent.

FA: Niall Doherty, Hamish Kerr

19Sport 15m, 6
3 All Sorts 8Unknown 30m
4 Bus Stop Boxer

5m left of All Sorts. Finishes on ledge at belay of Virgins with Rifles

FA: Niall Doherty

19Sport 20m, 9
5 Centaur 11Unknown 43m
6 Anonymous 12Unknown 53m
7 Wavy Chimney 8Unknown 20m
8 Fruitless 9Unknown 30m
9 Trog 9 M2Aid 47m
10 Revolver 14Unknown 50m
11 Rubber Soul 15 M1Aid 56m
12 Street Legal

The arete left of Running Gun Blues. Up the arete and wall carefully past the nose then up the arete to a bolt on a small ledge. Crux past the bolt and up trending left to the corner. Up to belay.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Burton, 1980

20Unknown 46m
13 * Running Gun Blues

The wall left of Hard Day's Night. Straight up the wall to reach L into a wide crack. Up onto small ledge then follow the line through two more bulges (crux) to the top of the cliff.

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn, Mark Burton, 1980

21Unknown 40m
14 Hard Days Night 15 M1Aid 40m
15 Stonkered 20Unknown 57m

1.5.7. The Sporting Complex 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.277013, -33.675718

Description:© (mjw)

A fantastic morning out. Rebolted on the day the Medlow fires broke out! Craig and Mitch were literally chased up to the car park in Belgravia St by the fire. The rap point is at the top of 'Smoko' - you have to scramble down a few metres to them. If you want to it is possible to do all the routes off the ledge. Life of Riley has lower off anchors. You will need a 60m rope although there are rethreading anchors on all the climbs for those with only a 50m rope. All the routes start off the same small dirt ledge, so it can be cosy if more than one group is here. The sun hits the crag at about 1:30pm in summer. Leave the ants alone!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Life of Riley

Rebolted 2004

FA: G. Child, J. Smoothy, 1993

25Sport 35m
2 ** Smoko

Rebolted 2004, and much appreciated. However, be aware that the first bolt was moved lower, unfortunately into some very hollow rock.

Start: Start where the abseil lands you.

FA: G. Child, M. Law, 1993

23Sport 35m, 16
3 ** Get a Black Dog Up Ya

Up LaCS pitch 2 past 1 or 2 FHs then, where LaCS's FHs trend R, head a little left and up following rings. If you top out straight above the last ring, belay options are poor (one old carrot about 10m up over the top). Probably better to step R from the last ring to find the chains of LaCS.

Start: Start at the belay atop p1 of LaCS.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1999

24Sport 35m, 9
4 ** Like a Cut Snake

Traverse out right from ledge following FHs to belay. Then up the arete to chain belay at top.

  1. 15m (21) Step R and up off the ledge, then follow the traverse line 5m R to near the arete. Up face on jugs, then step R to finish on the arete. 'Rusty' bolts and dodgy rock.

  2. 20m (21) Follow the FHs up and R to chain belay on top.

FA: G. Child, M. Taylor, 1993

21Sport 40m, 6
5 Mystery bolt line

About 8m R of p2 of LaCS is a line of bolts. It looks like you'd have to rap in as it starts in the middle of nowhere.

Unknown

1.5.8. The Underworld 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.277462, -33.675428

Description:© (Ashy)

The best (free) description at the moment is on Simon Carter's webpage: http://www.onsight.com.au/news-blog/articles/88/the-underworld-unveiled

No doubt ACA will catch up soon.

Approach:© (Ashy)

Access Glen Rosa as described up on level. 'The Underworld' is the western side of the Glen, and in fact is the "back wall" of the Sporting Complex buttress. Most routes start on the elevated tier. There are some much easier (20ish) vertical routes at the left end, on the 12m wall below the starting ledge of 'Julius Caesar'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ?

unknown first route, seems to be about a 19. Has not had much traffic and lots of loose blocks...

19Sport 6
2 * Hazzard County 21Sport 12m
3 Marcus Brutus* 21Sport 12m
4 * The Untouchables 19Sport 12m
5 ** Julius Caesar

Excellent, and unusually steep for the Blueys.

Start: Start towards the left end of the elevated ledge.

FA: G. Collum, 1994

24Sport 12m, 6
6 ** Gravel Rash

This is the splitter crack out the humungous roofs. Strange that it got bolted, though you also need trad. Now has a double ring bolt lower off.

FA: G. Child, 1994

25Sport 15m, 3
7 ** Dr. Dark's Cave

Up GR for about 8m, then head 10m right along the break/wall thing out the huge roof to the lip. The gear is mostly bad old bolts and pitons, with perhaps some trad and 1 or 2 new bolts where the new lines cross the traverse.

Start: Start as for 'Gravel Rash'.

FA: G. Child, M. Taylor, 1993

23Sport 15m
8 *** assassins

Start: On blunt arete on the right side of the steps.

FA: Z Vertrees, 2010

30Sport 24m
9 Back to the Underground

Tackles the obvious prow near the centre of the wall, then through the roof and finish along left at the lip

29Sport
10 ** Mississippi Moonshine

Start 3m right of the prow and climb the black shale tufa feature, then trend left through the roof and back right to finish over the lip. Back jump to clean

FA: V Day, 2010

30Sport 14m
11 Hashish

Start up Mississippi Moonshine then head across left to join assassins

32Sport 28m
12 Prohabition

Start up Mississippi Moonshine then step left and finish up the project

31Sport 16m
13 The River Styx

Bouldery start off the diving board

25Sport 12m
14 * Tomb Raider

Start up the bouldery start of The River Styx, traverse aout 8m left to finish at a U bolt and fixed wire just up on the head wall.

FA: H Sutton, 2010

25Sport 16m
15 * Odyssey

The long traverse starting as for The River Styx, then fiinishing at the anchors of Prohibition. Great jugging along the break.

FA: H Sutton, 2010

25Sport 22m
16 ** Elmars Gantry

Start: Directly up the blunt arete

FA: E Jurg, 2010

29Sport 12m
17 Project - Vince Sport 8m
18 * Public Enemy

Start: Start 4m R of JC.

FA: V Day, 2009

32Sport 8m

1.5.9. Pole 28 31 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.276269, -33.678973

Description:

Nice crag with one cliff in the sun all day and the other getting afternoon sun.

For lower Pole 28 area (actually part of the old Flying Fox crag) access by rapping off the power-pole atop the cliff, just downhill from the upper Pole 28 left-side climbs (Alpha Male etc). Alternatively, walk access via the Three Brothers area, following the cliff line RIGHT (north) from the base of the lower descent gully for several hundred metres, past FatF & Copperhead on Ice, and eventually to a massive amphitheatre with an obvious traverse crack in a smooth steep wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Just a Little Late

Start on left of main wall at slight corner. Follow left line of rings to lower-offs.

FA: J DeMartin, 2010

22Sport 15m
2 * Beavermart

Start as for JaLL until second ring then head slightly right and follow rings to lower-offs.

FA: D Taylor, 2008

23Sport 15m
3 ** Path to Paradise

Great climbing with shade in the morning and sun in the afternoon. Lots of bolts and plenty of stylish moves. Hard for the grade!

FA: D Taylor, 2008

21Sport 15m, 10
4 ** Angle of the Dangle

start 5m right of PtP. Scramble up to ledge, clip ring in roof then straight up to lower-offs.

FA: M Spring, 2008

24Sport 15m
5 ** Bubble Guts

Steep problem tending right then up. Mostly 19-21 moves with a single 23 sequence near the beginning. Very stylish climbing.

FA: D Taylor, 2008

23Sport 15m, 8
6 No Lunch

Left most line

FA: Jason Lammers & Rick Phillips, 2011

18Sport 14m
7 * Desensitise

Direct between the scoops

FA: Jason Lammers & Rick Phillips, 2011

21Sport 12m
8 * Alpha Male

On the left side of the crag coming down the stairs, third route along. Nice rock in the sun all day, and out of the wind! Good bit of winter rock!

FA: Tom Hepner, 2010

21Sport 10m, 6
9 * LoFi

Up AM, then continue directly up the arete.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

22Sport 10m
10 HiFi

First 2 bolts on BM then head left passing another bolt to gain arete and finish as per LoFi.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

22Sport 10m
11 * Beta Mail

Fourth climb along the left wall, a few metres past the blunt arete and Alpha Male.

FA: Tom & Hannah Hepner, 2010

20Sport 10m, 4
12 Find my iPhone

Arete to shared lower off with SM

FA: Jason Lammers & Tanya Greeves, 2011

20Sport 10m
13 * Shoalhaven Mayor

Cool orange streak

FA: Rick Phillips & Jason Lammers, 2011

22Sport 10m
14 Surprisingly Sweet

Right of SM

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

17Sport 10m
15 Project - Chris

Very steep. Initially attempted all on gear, but bolts added when gear started to pull through the placements! Still needs a few wires at the end. Rap station/loweroff on headwall above.

Start: Seam in the roof.

Mixed Project 12m, 4
16 * Fierce Fin

Hard start and little wall then right on jugs through the roof.

Start: Middle of big cave.

FA: Karen Allen, 2011

25Sport 12m, 8
17 Open Easy Project

Up the easy start to lip of cave. Traverse the lip "Pulling On The Porcelain" style and finally haul yourself up the orange head wall.

Set by Jason Lammers

Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 * Wave Priority

First 5 bolts of HW then directly up to tricky mantle and slab finish

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

22Sport 18m, 8
19 *** Heat Wave

Up the steep crack, then move right to lip and up.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

23Sport 18m
20 Damned if i Do (Project Bundy & Rick)

Hard start to overhung arete - pull around this onto bright orange headwall.

FA: Project - Rick and bundy

Sport Project 18m, 9
21 Brother in a Lolly Bag

Orange face on left side of shale cave, about 20m right of previous route. Right trending line to lip of small roof, hard move above this then flake to finish.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

21Sport 15m, 7
22 * Foxy the Fruit Bat

Starts in obvious orange corner and follows rings around roof at mid height.

FA: Tanya Greeves, 2011

FA: Tanya Greeves, 2011

18Sport 20m
23 ** Bewilderbeast

The following route is located at Pole 28 LOWER CLIFF (in the huge cave/overhang). See intro to area for directions.

Mixed Route: 4 bolts plus med-large cams (double #2; 3, 4 Camalot). Lower-off.

In the huge cave/overhang near the drainage/notch directly below Upper Pole 28. Start on the left where the horizontal splitter leaves a ledge.

With first piece placed, launch into a pumpy no- footer L-R hand traverse (no. 3 then no. 4 Camalot) before passing 3 bolts where the crack widens, then a 4th bolt heading straight up the steep wall on crimps to horizontal break (no. 2 Camalot ideal but a no. 1 or 3 would work) and lower-off anchors just left of arête.

FA: Tom Hepner, Tom ‘T-bor’ Thomson, 2010

21Mixed 20m, 4
24 * Copperhead on Ice

On the LOWER cliff. A few hundred metres along the cliff (north-east) walking from Crankenfurten (see Three Brothers area) and about 50m short of Bewilderbeast. Up to double rings, then continue as for FatF.

FA: M Spring, 2008

22Sport 50m
25 ** Fridge and the Freezer

On LOWER cliff. Starts between the small double arete, 3m left of Copperhead on Ice. Line of ringbolts to power-pole at cliff edge of upper Pole 28 area.

FA: D Taylor, M Spring, A Bergman, 2000

22Sport 50m
26 * Brother to another mother

Start right of Brothers K at crack.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

21Sport 20m
27 * Brothers K

Named after my kinship, the three brothers. Really nice climbing on good features, with just a few spicy moves. Stick-clip first bolt for sweet boulder moves through undercut start on good face holds, then pleasant wall climbing on funky features to a thin finish over the bulge. Start: Up the centre of a narrow south-facing wall with an undercut start and a corner to the right. FA: Tom Hepner, Hannah Hepner, Tom ‘T-bor’ Thomson - 2010-00-00

FA: Tom Hepner, Hannah Hepner, Tom 'T-bor' Thomson, 2010

22Sport 15m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
28 ** Hooyah !

2m right of corner. Up the techo red wall.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

22Sport 18m, 8
29 Kalifornication - Project Tom

Impressive looking line of bolts up a steep orange nose.

Sport Project 16m
30 Project - Tom (Kalifornication)

The very impressive looking line of u-bolts up a steep orange nose.

Start: About 15m right of BK

FA: Closed Project, Tom Hepner, 2000

Unknown
31 Damned if i don't (project Rick)

Start: Start 5 mtrs Right of Damned do and follow rising left traverse

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

Sport 18m

1.5.10. Sooty Crag 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.273932, -33.670691

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Scorched Earth

FA: S. Bell, 2003

22Sport 20m
2 ** Abbey Road (aka Chimera) / Chimera

Initialled start. Climbed on natural gear originally. Now bolted by some-one who thought it was a new route!

FA: Rod Young, Mark Burton, 1980

18Sport 20m
3 ** Chimera Extension

Originally led on natural gear as one pitch of 40m. as Abbey Road Extension (not Chimera Extension)

FA: Rod Young, Mark Burton, 1980

23Sport 40m
4 * Filed Away

FA: M. Rofe, 2003

20Sport 20m
5 *** Wildfire

FA: M. File, 2003

24Sport 20m
6 ** Vulcan

FA: S. Bell, 2003

22Sport 25m
7 * Soo

FA: M. Rofe, 2003

19Sport 25m
8 * Sweep

FA: M. Rofe, 2003

19Sport 25m
9 *** Windy Row (aka Sooty) / Sooty

Climb to lower-offs at 20m, or continue to top.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Burton, 1980

16Trad 25m
10 Updraft

FA: M. File, 2004

23Sport 15m
11 Project

FA: S. Bell, 2000

Sport
12 ** Sooty

Requires gear to lower-offs.

FA: S. Bell, 2003

16Trad 25m
13 ** Chimera

Extention makes it 23 and gives it another *! And adds 15m!

FA: M. File, 2003

18Sport 20m

1.5.11. DG's 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad
Unique Features And Strengths:

Nice orange rock. Big roof area. Easy access

Description:

Next crag along from the Flying Fox area, which Pole 28 is part of. Bolts are stainless, but hot bent so look black.

Access Issues:

Private Property. Take care, don't get climbing banned

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Chasing that Butterfly

FA: Josh Dodson, 2003

22Sport 15m
2 Calm My Beating Heart

FA: Ian Geatches, 2003

22Sport 15m
3 Defibrillator

FA: Ian Geatches, 2003

23Sport 15m
4 Wee Dram

FA: Josh Dodson, 2003

20Sport 15m
5 Topsail

FA: Ian Geatches, 2003

23Sport 12m
6 First Mate

FA: 2003

22Sport 12m
7 Project Chris

Maybe listed in the pole 28 area

Sport
8 ** Mad Taffy Traverse

traverse the crack for the howlin wolf to the lower offs.

FA: mad taff Tony Williams, 2004

21Unknown 25m
9 Triple Treat

FA: Josh Dodson, 2004

26Sport 12m
10 ** Chainsaw Juggler

Climb the crack (crux) then get on the overhang thru the dinner plates to lower offs.

FA: Tony Williams, 2004

21Unknown 10m
11 Hornblower

All roof, right through the middle of the orange roof

FA: Ian Geatches, 2004

25Sport 12m
12 Buckaroo direct

Start at the nose and go to first bolt. Stick clip it if you have to you pussies.

FA: Tony Williams, 2004

19Unknown 10m
13 Buckroo Direct

Straight off the nose of the buttress. Clip the first bolt of Buckaroo if you need to and then head up to the next on the direct. #1 and #2 cam for next placement. To rings!

FA: Tony Williams, 2004

19Trad 10m
14 Buckaroo

Go from the slope to the first bolt, get to the 2nd bolt. Gear from here. Good one if you've got your chick in tow that needs a lead. Hard to clean if you don't have a second.

FA: Tony Williams/ Nora Adam, 2004

14Trad 10m
15 Exotic as I am

Right hand buttress first lin eafter corner.

FA: Nora Adam/ Tony Williams, 2004

8Unknown 12m
16 Test Drilling

A bit to much catalyst in the megapoxy for the anchors, so a third bolt was added. Will get around to cleaning this up. Route look dirty, but the rock is mostly good.

FA: Ian Geatches, 2005

23Sport 10m
17 Gold Dust

The best route at the crag. The direct start is a project.

FA: Josh Dodson, 2004

24Sport 15m

1.5.12. Reservoir Dogs 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.275598, -33.674533

Description:© (Niall)

This rap-in halfway ledge is situated between the Sunbath and Sporting Complex areas of 'Medlow Bath', with the Hydro Majestic dominating the skyline above. The cliff face is mostly dead vertical and contains six two-pitch bolted routes and one two-pitch trad outing, all just under 40m long. The large ledge, the area above and the climbs themselves feature spectacular views out over the Megalong Valley.

Useful Info: At the bottom of the steps look a few metres to the right to find a pair of fixed hangers at the top of a small gully. (The hangers are grey and can be difficult to spot). Use your own carabiners and slings on these to rap down the short 45 degree sloped gully then the cliff itself. A 50m rope is easily long enough. It is best to bring a rope for this purpose and leave it in place.

The route you rap down is 'Bohemiath'. If you wish to climb this route and not have the rap rope in the way you could rap from the top anchor of 'Stuck in the Middle with You', a few metres north - two rings a metre back from the cliff edge, set in a cavelet underneath a boulder.

The crag is in the sun from 1:00pm in summer.

Approach:© (Niall)

To find the crag follow the track down from Belgravia St past the circular sunbath itself to the lookout above 'Schwing'. Turn left and follow the clifftop path. (The crag is visible, 100m away to the south, from the next lookout).

From here the path goes in around a wooded gully then back out towards the cliff. It swings left with a thicket of banksias on the right. Where these start to open out there is an old indistinct set of man-made steps heading down to the cliff edge. If you get to where the path turns sharp left you have gone 10m too far.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 I Don't Tip

Fully bolted low grade climb on stainless glue-in hex bolts.

Start: Starts 5m left (facing in) of KBSS. Look for the stainless carrot about a metre above eye height.

  1. 14m (15) Straight up, or (easier) up one move, left then up past 6BR to mantle onto large ledge. 2FH belay on wall.

  2. 22m (12) Up trending right on fragile large ironstones, moving right around blunt arete about two thirds way up. 7BR to 2FH belay on top. Notice the rusty carrot sticking out of the rock here with home made fixed hanger, a relic from a bygone age.

FA: Niall Doherty, Mike Patterson (alt), Josh Dodson, 2007

15Mixed 36m, 13
2 * K-Billy's Super Sounds of the 70s

Seventies style trad. First ascent was even chalkless! (The leader forgot his chalk bag). One set of cams from yellow Alien to #4 Camalot and a set of wires will protect it. Substitute hexes for cams if you sport a toothbrush moustache and pony tail.

Start: Marked "KB".

  1. 20m (17) Enjoyable. Good quality but slightly dirty rock and thought provoking moves. Follow right trending seam over three bulges. Top bulge was passed by moving left and up on FA, but remember to protect your second! Above top bulge traverse easily right all the way to belay at tree.

  2. 16m (10) Slippery lichenous corner. Easy but poorly protected. Not worth the effort unless you are heading for the top anyway. Belay at large tree.

FA: Niall Doherty, Mike Patterson (alt), Josh Dodson, 2007

17Trad 36m
3 Let's Get a Taco

Vertical face climbing with a bit of a layback section.

Start: Starts where ledge steps down, 7m left (facing in) of rap-in.

  1. 19m (18) Cruisy pitch at the grade. Up left side of overlap then left trending layback flake to face moves and mantle on large horizontal break. 7RB to 2RB belay/lower-off.

  2. 17m (17) Pretty ordinary but interesting moves. Really only worth doing if you are topping out anyway. 5RB. 'Grunt' off belay then up past awkward move on left side of overhang. Up boulder with fantastic ironstone plates to 2RB belay.

FA: Niall Doherty, Anna Beardmore, Charlie Watts, 2007

18Sport 36m, 12
4 * Stuck in the Middle with You

Sustained crimpy first pitch, delicate second pitch.

Start: Starts at a small pointy boulder 3m left (facing in) of the rap-in.

  1. 19m (19) A long series of crimpy moves on a very slightly overhanging face should induce a bit of a pump! There is no decent rest until near the top. 7RB to a 2RB belay/lower-off at the big horizontal. (This pitch may end up being upped a grade. See what you think).

  2. 19m (18) Thought provoking climbing with a lot of small fragile ironstone flakes higher up and an exposed top out. 8RB to a 2RB belay in cavelet on top.

FA: Niall Doherty, Anna Beardmore, Charlie Watts, 2007

19Sport 38m, 15
5 ** Bohemiath

Enjoyable face climbing.

Start: Starts off a rectangular block and climbs the rap-route.

  1. 19m (20) Straight up with hardish mantle move above second bolt then a pull through a small overlap. 7FH to twin-shackle belay/lower-off at the big horizontal.

  2. 18m (18) Awkward start out of the break - best to start on left (facing in) of belayer - up a bit then move right of the bolt line to use the layback flake and ironstone jugs. 7FH to 2FH belay at base of small rap-in gully. Best to bring up the second then belay each other on the scramble up to the rap-in hangers a few metres further up.

FA: Niall Doherty, Rod Smith (alt), 2008

20Sport 37m, 14
6 * Flex Time

A slightly left-leading line that tackles the central overhang at the top of the wall on its left side. All rings.

Starts at scoop 6m right (facing in) of Bohemiath (rap).

P1. A couple of sustained sections at the grade (crux pitch). Double ring SHB/lower off at the top of the pitch.

P2. Different style than P1 and not quite as difficult. Airy finish to belay on top.

FA: M. Franklin, A. Simson, 2012

21Sport 40m, 16
7 Wake Up and Apologise Pitch 1

FA: Niall Doherty, Rod Smith

18Unknown 27m
8 * Wake Up and Apologise

Cruisy first pitch, tough second.

Start: Starts 6m left (facing in) of MO.

  1. 20m (18) Pleasant climbing on good rock. 9FH to 2-shackle belay/lower-off.

  2. 18m (22) Tough off ledge then long series of thin moves on slightly overhung face. Trend right at top to finish on ledge. Scramble off to right. 6FH, 1RB to 2RB belay.

FA: Niall Doherty, Rod Smith, 2009

22Sport 38m, 16
9 ** Mr Orange

Excellent position and exposure. Good moves on beautiful orange rock with the steep crux move on the second pitch performed 80m above the valley floor.

Start: Starts off the boulder at the south end of the ledge.

  1. 20m (20) Start will require a jump for the vertically challenged or short of reach (like the first ascentionist). Afterwards move left then up, back right and up on left side of rounded arete. Third ring is set back and can't be seen from below. 9RB to 2RB belay/lower-off at big break.

  2. 18m (21) Big exposure but nothing too desperate. Another tough start if you're not tall - begin a metre right of the belay, then up and traverse left. Head up to the hanging buttress and go straight up the steepness, marvelling at the massive pile of bird poo. Pull on to headwall then up and left on deceptively tenuous holds. 2RB + 6FH to 2RB belay on small ledge just below main platform.

FA: P2 Niall Doherty, Rod Smith

FA: Niall Doherty (P1, P2), Rod Smith (second, P2), 2007

21Sport 38m, 17

1.6. Blackheath Area 893 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.294680, -33.628216

Unique Features And Strengths:

The heart of Blue mountains climbing.

1.6.1. Megalong Valley Crags 39 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.274991, -33.662966

Description:

All the mini crags in the megalong grouped together

1.6.1.1. James Bond 31 routes in Crag
Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown
Description:© (secretary)

This is a collection of crags that are accessed by driving down into the Megalong Valley from Blackheath. In winter they are in the sun all day and are generally protected from the wind.

1.6.1.2. The Phoenix 8 routes in Crag
Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.274787, -33.662685

Description:

Small crag with some unique trad climbs. Finger cracks, and marathon slabbing!

Approach:

TOP ACCESS (NEW) - Medlow Bath ~15min:

Driving West on Great Western Highway, pass through Medlow Bath and bear left just past the Hydro Majestic Hotel onto Belgravia St. Continue straight ahead onto well-maintained dirt road. Just over 1.1km along this track there are two clearings on the left, park at the second clearing (marked with Tan-coloured tape on a tree at the back, a small cairn near the track, and graffiti "AT" on a tree on the left side of the clearing.

Continue down the marked track at the back of the clearing for 200m. When you reach a large fallen tree (marked by tan-coloured tape, and a large cairn on the right), turn right and head down the trail, following cairns, pink marking tape, and red-coloured tape around trees as necessary. At first rocky outcropping, bear left (not right!) as you scramble down (marked) and continue down along rock face. The track cuts right to another rocky outcropping, then makes a sharp turn left (continuing straight ahead up the slab leads to the Archeopterix Rap access - see below) and zig-zags down a gully.

Where the trail flattens out, hug the right rock-wall and head down to an exposed ledge below an arete and a fixed rope. Follow the ledge to the right carefully, scramble down a prominant red dusty chute with help of another fixed rope, continue right to small chossy red cave (good for keeping packs dry). Rack up here, and traverse down and around the right rock-wall via the final fixed rope. At the bolt at the end of this traverse is the first pitch of Archaeopterix (21). Walk a further 8m along this ledge to the anchors for The Phoenix. Rap here 45m to the ground.

Via the Top Access, the area above Archaeopterix Wall (Above The Phoenix proper) can be walked to to allow a rap-in to Archaeopterix, or straight down to The Phoenix. Where the walk in takes a sharp left turn at a prominant tree (cairn) before the final vegetated descent gully, head straight up over the slab, and directly down the bushy hill to the cliff (faint trail, but much vegetation). Near the cliff edge there is a red fixed rope attached to a tree, that leads straight to the rap anchors.

BOTTOM ACCESS - Megalong Valley ~35min:

Overgrown and hard to find. Drive down Megalong Rd and park at the start of the Coachwood Glen 'Nature Trail'. Cross the creek. At the large boulders take the spur up the gully following cairns. At about half height head right into the gully and up to the base of cliff. Head right to the climbs. Watch out for leaches in summer.

1.6.2. Logan Brae 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.257267, -33.670114

Description:© (mjw)

Short, steep and pumpy. The mountains' version of a 'gym'.

Useful Info: This crag is on Private Property. At this stage the owners are happy for us to climb here provided that:

  • climbers remain responsible for our own safety,

  • dogs are NOT brought to the crag, and

  • residents rights are respected when it comes to parking.

Access Issues:© (mjw)

There is absolutely no access to the crag via the gated fire trail which goes through 'Berridale', under any circumstances.

Please refrain from creating any toilet areas along the track - keep it in until you get to the crag (better to leave it at Blackheath really). If you intend walking out in the dark - pack a head torch.

Please behave responsibly, as a lot of work has been put in to maintain our access to this crag. We still need to do more work stabilising the ledge below the climbs so please leave any materials stocked at the crag as they are, dont remove any shale from below the climbs no matter how 'dangerous' you think it is and please dont throw any loose rock/shale over the cliff as it will all be used in the stabilisation work.

Respect Native Habitat - Tread Softly and Leave No Trace.

Approach:© (mjw)

The crag is situated on Shipley Rd below Berridale Orchards. Drive past the Shipley fire hut and up the hill, at the second power pole on the left park - this is 40m before 'Cliffview'. The track to the crag is located just to the right of the parking area (no lazy 'shortcuts, please). The track straight ahead takes you to a very nice little lookout. Please do not park anywhere near 'Berridale' or in front of 'Cliffview'

Less than 10 minutes easy gradient walking track through a beautiful little gully full of native animals and plants (take care with the Sword Grass!).

There is absolutely no access to the crag via the gated fire trail which goes through 'Berridale', under any circumstances.

1.6.2.1. Main Cliff 29 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Sport
1.6.2.2. Lower-Again Brae 0 routes in Cliff
Description:© (Macciza)

The lower cliff line below 'Logan Brae' 'Main Wall'

Approach:© (Macciza)

Rap-in then climb out affair.

1.6.3. Big Top 32 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.257915, -33.646710

Description:© (secretary)

Not the best crag in the area, but in certain conditions it is! On those (very common) winter's days when it's sunny but cold and windy as hell, mornings up at 'Big Top' can be glorious. It's protected from the prevailing westerleys and gets morning sun, making for a lovely little warm microclimate when everywhere else is getting slammed.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Not in Front of the Children

Leave the tree alone and head up and right through some rather sandy stuff.

FA: L.Wishart, 1997

23Sport 35m
2 * Twista

Shares a start with NifotC. Head left around the aret and up.

FA: L.Wishart, 2002

23Sport 30m
3 ** Vertical Smile

FA: L.Wishart, 1997

23Sport 30m
4 * I've Got 3 Buttocks

new guide

FA: L.Wishart, 1997

22Sport 30m
5 ** Abso Effing Llewdly

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

21Sport 25m
6 YonX

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

18Sport 15m
7 * Llewd Dude

FA: M.Pircher, 2000

22Sport 25m
8 ** JinX

Great climb. Probably the best here.

FA: M.Pircher, 2000

19Sport 25m
9 * fliX

Start: As for JinX, then left.

FA: M.Pircher, 2004

20Sport 25m
10 * Oddly Bodly

FA: L.Wishart, 1998

25Sport 22m
11 * Martin Llewder King

FA: M.Pircher, 2001

24Sport 20m
12 Nudely Rudely

Batman start!

FA: M.Pircher, 2002

23Sport 20m
13 * HoaX

Start: Shares a start with HV.

FA: M.Pircher, 2001

20Sport 15m
14 ** Hairy Vengeance

Start: Off boulder about 10m right of L.

FA: M.Pircher, 2001

22Sport 30m
15 Llewdicrous

Great fun!

FA: M.Pircher, 2001

17Sport 25m
16 * Methane Maestro

Start: Left side of the arete following flakes. This is where the track from the road comes out.

FA: L.Wishart, 1997

26Sport 32m
17 ** Buster Gonad

extra ring added 2004

FA: L. Wishart, 1997

25Sport 32m
18 * Blind Fate

FA: Nathan Bolton, 2008

21Sport 8m
19 ** 21st Century Mucoid Man

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

27Sport 40m
20 Once You Bolt Crack You Never Go Back

FA: Nathan Bolton

17Sport 12m
21 ** Praise the Llewd

A bolted crack!

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

22Sport 25m
22 ** Llewds Prayer

This wall has been given the name 'The Chocolate 'Crackle' Wall'. Take care.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

25Sport 35m
23 ** Why the Long Face?

FA: L.Wishart, 1998

25Sport 35m
24 ** Lord Llewd

FA: S.Grkovic, 1998

25Sport 35m
25 * Fruit of my Loins

Start up the block just left of a bushy chimney thing for a few bolts. Then step R across the chimney and traverse 4-5m further R to bypass the band of vegetation. Then up the great arete to a really airy steep finish over the final roof.

Start: Start about 20m down right from where the track leaves the base of the big red wall.

FA: L.Wishart, 2002

24Sport 25m
26 *** Funnel to Oblivion

The name says it all!

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

28Sport 30m
27 ** Rudely Llewdly 24Unknown 27m
28 Mystical Lamb

Lower arete on the boulder. Bouldery start!

FA: B.Cossey, 2003

27Sport 12m
29 Project

The line of bolts up the line of crazy non-holds, in the middle of the downhill face of the boulder. Bolted by Lee Cossey.

Start: Between TCC and ML.

Sport 14m
30 * The Clumbsy Caterpillar

The higher arete on the boulder

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

30Sport 12m
31 * Gooey in the Wee-wee

Route to the right of the crack. Keep out of the crack!

FA: L.Wishart, 2005

27Sport 12m
32 Kubrick Crack

The crack on the upper side of the boulder

  1. -m (-)

  2. -m (-)

FFA: G Delacy, B Stevens, 1987

18Trad 12m

1.6.4. Shipley Upper 82 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271453, -33.638839

Description:

Probably the most popular crag in the whole of the Blue Mountains. It has magnificent views, mostly sport routes, easy access, and great routes from the mid-teens to early 30s. Something for everyone. It faces North-West and gets plenty of sun. Sun hits the crag at 11.30am in summer. In winter you can climb all day with the sun hitting the wall from 9.30am. Location: Access via Centennial Glen Rd. Take the Fire Trail through the gate to get to the Grey Slab end of the crag,or follow the track that heads from the carpark into Centennial Glen. Turn left at the base of the eroded steps and walk through a small glen with an old stone bath in it - Cleopatra's Bath, the water that fills this bath after rain is usually good to drink - then along the track under the overhangs and around left to Wall's Ledge. (Right takes you into the Glen or down Centennial Pass to the 'Porters Pass' climbing area).

Approach:© (secretary)

Access via 'Centennial Glen' Rd. You can walk down either end of the crag and both take about the same amount of time so it doesn't really matter which way you go. To get to the right (SW) end of the crag (e.g. Sandwiches Buttress and Grey Slab), take the Fire Trail beyond the locked gate (on the left as you enter the carpark), and follow the fire trail for about 300m through low scrub with fantastic views, down a few short rock slabs with chopped steps, then turn right along the base of the crag. To get to the left (NE) end of the crag (Equaliser/Supercal areas), follow the walker's track that heads straight ahead from the carpark downhill into 'Centennial Glen'. After about 250m this takes you down a short cliffline with chopped/built steps, turn left at the base and walk about 200m to the crag, through a small glen with an old stone bath in it (Cleopatra's Bath, the water that fills this bath after rain is thought by some to be good to drink - but flows down from Blackheath so think twice), then along the dusty track under the overhangs and around left to Wall's Ledge. If you turn right at the base of the chopped steps it takes you to Centennial Glen/Porters Pass climbing areas, so it's easy to crag-hop among them all in a single day.

1.6.4.1. Equaliser Wall 15 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.272442, -33.638345

Description:© (secretary)

Stay alert when lowering the leader because they will land on the wrong side of the fence, on the slippery slope leading down to the 50m cliff below. And tie a knot in the end of your rope.

This crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. It is not a designated off-leash area: dogs must be leashed at all times. Also, the BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the observed impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. More considerate dog owners therefore might like to think about not bringing your dog at all.

1.6.4.2. Golliwog Wall 13 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271464, -33.638739

Description:© (secretary)

USE A 60M ROPE ON THESE ROUTES!! And tie a knot in the end of your rope!!

Leaders have been dropped off the end of the rope when using a 50m rope on these routes - and there is a big risk that, even if you survive the initial fall, you will tumble down the slope and go off the 50m cliff below. Take care!

Also, the logs are getting a bit wobbly: stick clipping the first bolt is recommended.

This sector should really be called Grand Junction sector or Displaced Persons sector, given that those routes were done more than a decade before Golliwog.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

1.6.4.3. Hot Flyer Wall 20 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271021, -33.638965

Description:© (secretary)

USE A LONG ENOUGH ROPE ON THESE ROUTES!! And tie a knot in the end of your rope!!

Leaders have been dropped off the end of the rope at this crag when using a too-short rope - and there is a big risk that, even if you survive the initial fall, you will tumble down the slope and go off the 50m cliff below. Take care!

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

1.6.4.4. War Babies Wall 15 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.270643, -33.639178

1.6.4.5. Grey Slab 7 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.270280, -33.639403

Description:

As its name suggests, it is the prominent grey slab near the descent from the gated Fire Trail at the end of Centennial Glen Rd. Easy routes, some requiring a bit of natural gear. Note the gear is not always good and the runouts could be potentially dangerous. These route were the first in the area and were equipped by people climbing a few grades harder. Needs 'some' sort of a rebolt! Nor a good beginners area unless properly supervised!

Approach:© (secretary)

At the left end of the crag (facing out).

1.6.4.6. Sandwiches Wall 12 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.269968, -33.639611

Description:© (secretary)

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

1.6.5. Shipley Lower 39 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.267809, -33.641556

Unique Features And Strengths:© (secretary)

This crag is a suntrap with the sun hitting by 9am, and is also surprisingly well protected from the wind (when its blowing 40-60km/h at Mt Boyce the base here is still quite ok, although further up t

Description:© (secretary)

Has a great trad classic and several sport routes which, since recent rebolting, are among the best of their grade in the entire mountains!

Approach:© (secretary)

Walk in as for Sail Away Wall to the bottom of the chopped steps and hand rails, then head left (SW) along the base of the cliff for a few hundred metres. For the Clockwork Orange area and beyond, it might be a little quicker to abseil in from below Upper Shipley, but unless you only want to do one route the abseil is arguably not worth the admin now that the track from Sail Away is becoming more well trodden.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Unforgiven

Leftmost route on 'Nikita' wall. 28 if you go direct (after rebolt by Steve G), 27 if you snake around right the original way (by Mikl). Great rock, especially lower half.

FA: Mikl, rebolt and direct variant Steve Grkovic, 2000

27Sport 35m
2 * The Outlaw

Start up the unforgiven till the 4/5 bolt and head right.

FFA: S Grkovic, 2008

29Sport 40m
3 ** Nikita

Pumper, follows obvious right leaning ramp. Now starts on the ground and stops at lower-offs at 35m. Needs 16 draws and 2 more for the anchor, and a 70m rope. The good hold for the hard move down low snapped in June 2013, decide for yourself whether this does anything to the grade.

FA: Mike Stacey did it at 25M1 in the age of lycra, Giles freed the start move, same grade (25)., 2000

25Sport 70m, 16
4 ** Quran Calling

Starts approximately 100m left of Sausages and Lightbulbs, on left side of prominent arete (stay high and traverse along narrow shale ledge beneath undercut just past where the track turns left and climbs down to the lower tier). Gets early morning sun and goes into the shade after lunch.

Batman to the first jug then tip toe and crimp across the ramp and up thin wall to good holds. The climbing now gets easier up the left side long mega arête on bomber orange rock. Doubles of small cams up to .75 and some slings.

Set by Ben JengA., 2013

FFA: Ben Jenga, Paul Thompson, 2013

24Mixed 30m, 12
5 *** Sausages and Light Bulbs

30m and 16 bolts plus anchors to lower offs, 50m up easy slab with a couple more bolts.

FFA: M law, S Johns, S Moon, 1994

24Sport 50m, 18
6 ** Brisket Tugger

Obvious thin face and sexy looking blank corner. A bit glued up, but great climbing. Don't cop out to the arete at the top!

FA: Mikl in his orange spandex days., 1936

26Sport 50m
7 Shaken Not Stirred

Start: 50m LEFT of the waterfall.

  1. 15m (21) Corner and flake to roof. Out to ledge and belay.

  2. 20m (21) 'Flake' to break. Leftwards, then up right to ledge.

  3. 15m (-) Left and out.

FA: T.Williams,J.Smoothy, 1986

21Trad 50m
8 * Hooray for Fish

Long and varied. Not so great as a warm-up!

FA: Chris Cogsy, 2008

22Sport 32m
9 Hot Fan Faronade

Start: 15m LEFT of the waterfall.

  1. 20m (16) Start near fallen tree. Offwidth. Climb tree to wall above chockstone. Crack and wall to top of flake.

  2. 25m (20) Up ramp and wall to break. Slab to roof. Up.

FA: C.Martin,A.Penney,R.Chick, 1984

20 RTrad 45m
10 Blossoms

Up the tree, right to scoop, right to breaks. Left and up to ledge. Right to slab. up. 2 pitches.

Start: Right of HFF. Near the abseil landing.

FA: T.Williams, 1986

21Trad 50m
11 5 Go Adventuring Again

Start: 13m left of 'Clockwork Orange'.

FA: Bennet,Haines,Myers,Danielle, 1988

20Trad 50m
12 *** Clockwork Orange

Start: Orange corner 55m right of the waterfall.

  1. 20m (18) Up corner to break, left to ledge, wall and stance.

  2. 25m (20) Slab to crack. Corner, around bulge. Crack to ledge. Left along the ledge to groove.

  3. 16m (15) Up the groove.

FA: K.Bell,R.Lassman, 1972

20Trad 61m
13 * Lambeg Drums

Start: As for CO.

  1. 30m (18) As for CO to ledge.

  2. 25m (18) Slab, diagonally left slab to arete.

  3. 35m (18) Up onto the slab, left of bulge and up.

FA: C.Martin,R.Chick, 1984

18Trad 90m
14 The Prozac Years

3 pitches with a nightmarish mantel at the end of the second pitch. Some of the bolts are dodgy until rebolted.

FFA: G Child, G Bradbury, 1996

25Sport 60m
15 Orange Marmalade

Start: Corner 8m right of CO.

  1. 15m (17) Crack to ledge.

  2. 25m (17 M3) Wall to bulge, over this onto ledge and crack. Up to roof, loose (?) flake the ledge below roof. Right to ledge and tree. THIS PITCH MAY HAVE BEEN FREED!

  3. 15m (17) Up wall.

FA: R.Lassman,K.Bell, 1972

17 M3Aid 55m
16 Aquapuppy

Start: As for OM.

  1. 20m (20) Corner to traverse. Across roof. Take care! Onto arete to ledge.

  2. 10m (19) Wall and slab. Rap here. OR traverse right to gully.

FA: R.Lebreton,T.Williams, 1988

20 RTrad 30m
17 Rewind

Start: 25m right of CO.

  1. 20m (19) Bulge. Left up crack to ledge. Belay in the gully on the right.

  2. 20m (19) Right around arete, up and right up ramp to ledge under roof. Take care! Up to ledge.

  3. 15m (19) Up.

FA: R.Lebreton,T.Williams, 1987

19 RTrad 55m
18 * The Flex

Up. Careful with flake. Up, then left to break. Right to arete. Up. Finish as for R.

Start: Faint corner with black wall below flake.

FA: T.Williams,S.Moon, 1986

23Trad 50m
19 Wildlife

Start: 3m LEFT of 'Bowstring'.

  1. 20m (21) Faint crack to slab. Belay as for 'Twinkle Toes'.

  2. 30m (21) Up and left. Travers right at steepness to ledge. Up.

FA: S.Moon,B.Cameron, 1986

21Trad 50m
20 Twinkle Toes

Start: 20m LEFT of 'Bowstring'.

  1. 20m (22) Middle of black wall to ledge, slight left to belay. Take wires!

  2. 20m (22) Slab up and right to tree!

FA: T.Williams,S.Moon, 1986

22 RTrad 40m
21 Bowstring

Start: 100m RIGHT of CO. White right facing corner.

  1. 15m (23) Crack to offwidth roof. Corner to stance on left.

  2. 30m (18) Right into crack to big slab under roof. Right to break at end of the roof.

  3. 10m (18) Bulge and up.

FFA: W.Baird

FA: (Lassman,Bell), 2000

23Trad 55m
22 Pancho Villa

Start: Yellow roofed corner 12m right of B.

  1. 20m (23) Corner, traverse right to footledge, right along break, up to ledge.

  2. 10m (15) Traverse right.

FA: T.Williams,R.Lebreton, 1988

23Trad 30m
23 Caterpillar Girl

Start: Narrow wall 70m right of PV.

  1. 15m (16) Up left side of wall, step right. Up bulge and wall to ledge.

  2. 25m (17) Wall and arete.

FA: D.Haines,R.Lebreton, 1988

17Trad 35m
24 Cindy Sherman

Now, she was a girl...

Start: 10m LEFT of the ESCAPE ROUTE. Corner.

FA: D.Haines,R.Lebreton, 1988

22Trad 20m
25 Escape Route

The route to do here if you have to! Take care!

Start: Right of 'Caterpillar Girl'. Below the big red roof. 10m above the track. To freedom.

9Trad 20m
26 The Little Prince

Start: 2m right of ER corner.

FA: M.Myers, 1988

21Trad 30m
27 The Human Factor

Start: 80m right of 'Pancho Villa' at wide crack right of roof capped red wall.

  1. 40m (20) Corner crack 10m, left to centre of wall. Up through breaks to big one below the roof. Left to belay.

  2. 35m (19) Up groove and corner.

FA: S.Moon,G.Moore,C.Martin, 1984

20Trad 75m
28 Slingshot

Start: Finger crack right of THF.

21Trad
29 ** Nuclear Winter

Start: 35m RIGHT of THF. Short steep corner.

  1. 20m (23) Corner to ledge, right and up wall to belay on sloping ledge.

  2. 25m (24) Left, up then traverse to arete. Up.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury, 1986

24Trad 45m
30 Sidewinder

Start: Right of NW. Offwidth.

21Trad
31 The Green Room

Start: Middle of 3 high corner cracks.

FA: T.Williams,T.Carroll, 1986

19Trad 30m
32 The Untouchable

Up TGR. Corner to crack. Right to arete. Up.

Start: As for TGR.

FA: T.Williams,G.Bradbury, 1986

21Trad 30m
33 ** St Valentine's Day Massacre

Start: 15m right of 'Sidewinder'.

  1. 35m (23) Stick clip. Follow bolts. Traverse left. Up corner. Take long slings!

  2. 20m (15) Right from belay and up.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden,T.Williams, 1986

23Sport 55m
34 ** St Clemmen's Crack

Crack right of SVDM

17Trad
35 St Clemmen's Crack Variant

3m left to wall and narrow ledge, crack, up and mantle. Diagonally right and up (poor pro!). Diagonally left up ramp and corner to orange overlap.Traverse around nose, up right side of arete. Take wires!

Start: At SCC anchor 1.

FA: D.Grey,B.Maxwell,R.Taylor,I.Collins, 1985

18 RTrad 40m
36 ** Psycho Killer

Start: 5m up SCC. Traverse left and up. Finish as for SVDM or rap.

FA: M.Baker,J.Smoothy, 1989

25Trad 35m
37 Whinge, Cringe, Plunge

Start: 10m right of SSC. Grey Wall

  1. 35m (23) Thin crack. Wall to ledge. Traverse left to ledge.

  2. 15m (15) Corner. Take Care!

FA: T.Williams,L.Closs, 1986

23Trad 50m
38 Quite Effete

Start: Roof crack 30m right.

  1. 20m (20) Up to roof, right 10m, up to break and belay.

  2. 20m (20) Up, left to orange corner/flake. Thin break. Left to arete.

  3. 20m (18) 'Arete' and wall.

FA: T.Williams,T.Carroll, 1986

20Trad 60m
39 Southern Closs

Start: From QE anchor 1.

  1. 25m (20) As for QE then right to bolt. To arete and up to ledge.

  2. 15m (21) Straight up.

FA: T.Williams,L.Closs, 1986

21Trad 60m

1.6.6. Shipley Plateau 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Bite 23Unknown 15m
2 Sugarloaf Lovers 20Unknown 15m

1.6.7. Centennial Glen 117 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.274659, -33.636382

Description:

The home of sport climbing in Australia. This controversial area has been the scene of some very public debates about ethics of all kinds: chipping, bolting, climbers' toileting habits, interactions with bushwalkers, and even the climbing environment itself. Note that chipped holds did occur here, but they have all been filled in years ago. Nowadays chipping is NOT acceptable here (or anywhere else for that matter). The climbing is short, fun and very very sporty.

Approach:© (secretary)

The crag is easily accessed by two methods:

  1. Follow Bundarra St to it's west end, then walk down the Centennial Pass walking trail. After about 10 minutes (200m after crossing the creek), turn left at the signposted junction and follow the gully down into the glen.

(2) Park in the carpark at the end of 'Centennial Glen' Rd, Blackheath. Take the stepped path straight ahead (not the firetrail through the gate to the left) for about 200m until it winds down a short rock step, then turn right at the bottom. Follow this track into the glen; where it splits, stay right nearer the base of the cliffs (left takes you to the 'Porter's Pass' climbing areas through Centennial Pass).

Option 1 is fastest for the whole Glen if you're walking from Blackheath. Even if you're driving, Option 1 is just as quick as Option 2 if you are going to climb at 'Main Wall', 'White Linen', 'Search and Destroy', 'Wave Wall' or 'Woodpecker Wall'. Option 2 is by far the most popular but is only quicker for 'Junket Pumper' and 'Hip Shake Jerk' sectors ... and the carpark can get ridiculously busy.

1.6.7.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area 15 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.274149, -33.637461

Description:© (secretary)

A small steep wall on good rock. Pity about the aid starts.

Approach:© (secretary)

The area below and to the right (facing out) from the lookout below 'Centennial Glen' Rd. Faces 'Wave Wall' and is sunny and out of the wind all winter.

This is the first climbing area you come to when entering the Glen.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

1.6.7.2. Junket Pumper Area 21 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.275155, -33.636402

Description:

80m right of the main wall to a terrace 10m above the track. This wall is opposite the main wall. One of the few areas in the Glenn that gets sun in the winter. But is desperately hot in summer. Has some very nice orange rock.

Approach:© (secretary)

Walk about 80m right of the main wall to a terrace 10m above the track. This wall is opposite the main wall.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

1.6.7.3. Main Wall 37 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.275017, -33.635302

1.6.7.4. White Linen Wall 14 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.274387, -33.635921

1.6.7.5. Wave Wall 21 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.273752, -33.636677

Description:© (aca_admin)

This mighty impressive wall contains a great range of quality routes at all grades in the 20s. Gets sun from about 2-3pm.

Routes are described right to left, which is the order that you get to them from the walk in.

Approach:© (aca_admin)

This crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

1.6.7.6. Woodpecker Wall 9 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.273152, -33.636557

Description:© (secretary)

A small, and often neglected crag at the extreme end of The Glen. Not particularly inspiring, but does contain some good vertical routes. Out of the sun from mid morning.

Approach:© (secretary)

Continue past Wave Wall for 20m.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

1.6.8. Porters Pass 86 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.271987, -33.636162

Description:© (secretary)

A great climbing area skirting the bottom of a huge cliffline. The area is actually on Collier's Causeway at the bottom of Cenntenial Pass.

Approach:© (secretary)

Park in 'Centennial Glen' Rd and take the stairs down to the junction of the Wall's Ledge (left) and 'Centennial Glen' (right) track. Turn right past desecrated cave. Take the lower track down through the pass (Centennial Pass, down stairs, left past the 'slippery dip'. At the bottom turn left, through fence' for 'Sail Away' area or cross the creek onto Collier's Causway. The first area you come to is the 'Dogs,Cats & Apples Wall'.

1.6.8.1. Rough Trade and Beyond 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

This is the area on the other side of the waterfall and below Walls Ledge. Its a vegetated bush bash and extends through to the cliff below Jack High.

1.6.8.2. Sail Away Wall 13 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.273309, -33.637341

Description:

Soaring orange wall to the left of the stairs at the base of Centennial Pass.

1.6.8.3. Self Portrait Wall 7 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.273029, -33.637053

Description:

Shaded grey wall across Centennial Creek and on a small ledge above the track. For Chook Lotto, Done Roamin' and Chook Raffle stay on the track until just before it turns the corner.

1.6.8.4. Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall 16 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.272500, -33.636935

Description:

The first wall on the right as you break into the sunlight. The routes from 'So, Said the King through to Aniseed Arete' are on a ledge above the track the others start on track level.

1.6.8.5. Chasing Amy Wall 7 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.272079, -33.636224

Description:

The next wall along the track (Collier's Causeway). the routes start on a ledge above the track, Chasing Amy is the 'seam' on Fixed Hangers.

1.6.8.6. Sesame Street 7 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown
1.6.8.7. Thrustblock Area 8 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Aid
Description:

There is a steep track down and around the corner from Sesame St Area that head`up towards the great chimney - Thrustblock.

1.6.8.8. SSCC4 Area 14 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Sport, Aid and other styles
1.6.8.9. The Birdcage Area 8 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles
Description:

About 400m or so along the Causeway and up through the bush above the track. The Birdcage is the big guano plastered corner.

1.6.8.10. Rehab Boulder 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.272171, -33.627264

Description:

The obvious boulder on the right hand side of the track just after you cross the creek (opposite side to the stairs.).

1.6.9. Gateway & Fort Rock 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.272678, -33.630983

Description:© (secretary)

The main area, with plenty of hard routes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Tower of Orthank

A brutal piece of body wrenching roof climbing, with an accuracy demanding pounce. 'The sword' in the stone next to the anchors will decide the true king.

FA: B.Cossey, 2003

29Sport 6m
2 Smooth & Crunchy

Used to go all the way to the top.

FA: J.Smoothy sometime last century., 2000

18Sport 6m
3 *** Image Magic

A true battle for the first ascent, a clash of horns between two galiant titans, the victor will be forever etched in history, while the defeated lad is not worth mentioning.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

29Sport 12m
4 *** Next Dimension

Pack your shorts full of rocket powder and cast off into the unknown, where you'll find rad boulder moves and shiney golden eyes, power through the bulge and fly to freedom.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

27Sport 12m
5 ** Gateway

Beware the evil eyes are apon you. The frost covered ground will show you the path, take gentle steps. The gorgeous rock will hold your hand your mind concerned only with the foot you must land.

FA: B.Cossey, 2003

28Sport 10m
6 ** Enemy at the Gate

Deemed impossible by many who've tried. An iron will and mastery of the mind is all that is in common with ascensionists of this climb.

FA: J.Clark, 2003

26Sport 10m
7 ** Super Sprinkle Cake

Cool jumpers and wooly lockin'.strip clubs the world over will sing your praise.

FA: G.Miller, 2004

28Sport 18m
8 *** Middle Earth

Tricky clip, squeeze hard it will be over soon, you'll be back at work and will long for the chance to once again dance apon the rocks.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

29Sport 10m
9 *** Double Adapter

Don't concentrate on the anchor's or you will miss all the heavenly glory. Only a fool spends his time attempting to see into the future rather than see into the present.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

31Sport 15m
10 3D aka Gateway Super Loop Open Project

FA: Step up and fight. A FA means nothing if you don't 'let' someone on it, 2000

Sport
11 *** Fighting Urak – Hai

FA: B.Cossey, 2003

30Sport 10m
12 *** The Amateur

The best warm up here.

FA: A.Watts, 2004

24Sport 12m
13 ** The Professional

Traverse the lip to finish at 'Middle Earth' anchors.

Start: Starts up 'The Amateur'.

28Sport 15m
14 ** De Art

Around the corner in the White Cave.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

27Sport 8m
1.6.9.1. Fort Rock 5 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 150.272447, -33.632532

Description:© (secretary)

While not a new crag it seems to have been forgotten about. Crag faces south, so stays in the shade all day. For those who find 'Gateway' a wee bit streno it is a neat alternative.

Reference: Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains, 2nd Edition. Page 67.

Mixed climbing – take some gear! The crag need rebolting!

1.6.10. Celebrity Crag 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271798, -33.627724

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project (Frey) projectUnknown
2 ** Good but Fucking

FA: S. Steward, 1995

20Sport 15m
3 ** Blah Blah Woof Woof

FA: S. Steward, 1995

23Sport 15m
4 ** 0055 Hot Wet Action

FA: S. Steward, 1995

23Sport 15m
5 * Truly Madly Deeply Steeply

FA: S. Steward, 1995

21Sport 15m
6 ** Geek Heathen

FA: J. Clark, 1996

23Sport 15m
7 ** Mr Christmas Poo

FA: J. Clark, 1995

20Sport 15m
8 * Butt Nuggets

Lower-offs added 2004

FA: J. Kurko, 1995

19Sport 15m
9 * Johnny's Jalopies

FA: C. Hale, 1995

18Sport 15m, 7
10 Mr Scumbag

FA: C. Hale, 1995

18Sport 15m
11 Anal Leakage

FA: M. Pircher, 1996

19Sport 12m
12 * Hark! The ..

FA: M. Pircher, 1996

20Sport 12m
13 * Rudolf the Bloody Reindeer

FA: M. Pircher, 1996

23Sport 12m

1.6.11. Heathcliff 34 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.268980, -33.627315

Description:© (rogerb)

Mainly sports routes plus a few classic cracklines.

Approach:© (rogerb)

On the cliffline below the minor celebrities. This is the big one that Cathy had the hots for, and with good reason.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Unearthed 20Unknown 110m
2 ** Unearthed DF

P4. Up crack and left at top. Good rock (!), pro and climbing. Best pitch of the route.

FA: C Kritzinger, D Smith, 2004

18Unknown 25m
3 * Worrying Heights 22 M1Aid 110m
4 Blind Leading the Blind 22Unknown 30m
5 Unnamed 20Unknown 20m
6 * Thing 1

Diagonal Crack. Join pitch 1 of this with pitch 2 of next route for classy two pitch 20.

  1. 28m (20) Crack past 6 carrots and #1 & #3 friends to rings.

  2. 32m (21) Up right to slab and rings

FA: J Smoothy G Williams, 2000

21Unknown 60m
7 ** Thing 1 (pitch 1)

FA: Smoothy/ Williams

20Unknown 28m
8 *** Thing 2

Good!

All Carrots

Start: 15m right of T1

  1. 17m (22) Up 'Flake' right and up to belay.

  2. 48m (20) Follow carrots and rings to top

FA: J Smoothy G Williams, 2000

22Sport 65m
9 ** Thing 2 - Pitch 1

Up flake and then right and up. All rings

FA: John Smoothy, 2000

22Sport 20m
10 ** Thing 2 (pitch 2)

FA: J.Smoothy/ G.Williams, 2000

20Sport 48m
11 ** Skuzeeney Jaludek

As for "Pumpkin Puree" then right line of rings to ledge and DRBB

22Sport 20m, 8
12 ** Pumpkin Puree
  1. Hard start on incuts

  2. Up on good rock. Take 1 bolt plate, the rest are rings.

FA: I & V Valenta, 2007

22Sport 50m, 10
13 * Plumbers Crack

Up crack with natural protection then past 6 carrots to ledge and anchor as for COtOB

Start: Start at obvious left facing crack 10m right of block.

FA: R Dun, I Valenta, 2004

19Trad 26m
14 * 14 Carrot Gold

Traverse left then up wall past carrots.

Start: At the top of Chip Off The Old Block.

FA: I Valenta, R Dunn, 2004

17Trad 35m
15 *** Leighsageezer

Start: Start at slab 5m left of 'Bad Blood'

  1. 23m (22) Thin Moves up slab past 9 rings to anchor

  2. 25m (23) 'Steep' climbing through a small roof to a 2 ring belay

  3. 15m (15) Easy to top but runout!

FA: I Valenta R Dun, 2004

23Sport 60m
16 ** Leighsageezer Pitch 1 22Unknown 25m
17 ** Bad Blood

Start: Start at far right end of cliff under a patch of orange rock. Bad blood is the left line of bolts. Some loose Rock

  1. 25m (19) HArd move of ground the up groove and juggy wall

  2. 15m (22) Straight up steep Wall

22Unknown 40m
18 ** Bad Blood P1

FA: 2004

19Sport 25m
19 ** Fake Blood

Start: as for BB then right line of bolts

FA: Damien Heath, Tony Williams, 2003

18Sport 20m
20 * Boadicea

2 pitches, top out.

FA: G.Short

18Sport 75m
21 ** Chip Off the Old Block

Start: Off the top of the block.

FA: I Valenta, R Dunn, 2004

19Sport 25m
22 * Wise Crack

Start: Just left of the block.

FA: R Dunn, I Valenta, 2004

20Trad 25m
23 *** The Rift

Start: 10m left of the large block that leans on the main face.

  1. 20m (18) Up slab.

  2. 20m (19) Up wall to ledge.

  3. 15m (19) Up arete

FA: I Valenta, R Dunn, 2004

19Sport 55m
24 ** The Rift (Pitch 1) 18Unknown 25m
25 *** The Rift Pitch 2 19Unknown
26 * The Rift Pitch 3 18Unknown 20m
27 * A Bit like the Grose
  1. Start as per the rift, a few moves on the slab then left up the ramp, on to wall.

  2. Up the wall on pockets and breaks. Trend right near the top. (can be linked with pitch 1)

  3. Up vague corner, then left to arete. All the way to the top on carrots or finsih up pitch 3 of the Rift if you dont have any bolt plates.

FA: Ivan Valenta, 2008

20Sport 60m, 10
28 ** Spook

crack to chains

FA: I Valenta, R Dunn, 2004

20Trad 25m
29 Dan Rampe 22Sport 20m
30 ** Ricardo Lagos 22Sport 20m
31 Hawk's Nest 23Sport 22m
32 Pete Rhodes 19Sport 25m
33 ???

Project, out right and up

Start: at 2nd pitch belay of B.

FA: G Short, 2000

Unknown
34 *** Spurs of Barren Jangling

Up the middle of the middle (See guide book for remaining routes on this cliff).

Start: At the bottom of the middle. Left of the "project" shown as the leftmost route in the 2007 guidebook topo.

FA: R Bourne, 2007

23Sport 35m

1.6.12. Atlantis 33 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.315010, -33.608713

Description:© (mjw)

A lost world. Protected from the wind and sunny. Good for mid winter. Can be hot as hell in the summer!

Useful Info: Many of the bolt are working themselves loose so take care. If you want to do the easy climbs above the 'Dust Bowl' you will need to climb eithwe 'Hillbilly' or 'He-Man'!

Approach:© (mjw)

Drive down Hat Hill Rd past the emergency airfield (big sandy area on the left) the road turns to dirt here. Turn left at the next road - Godson Ave. Park on the right at the obvious bend. Take the fire trail until it runs out, head left (there is a track going straight ahead) follow track down below first small cliff then right around the small cliff to pick up track again. Fixed ropes down second small cliff, then right under cliff and above Hat Hill Creek. Continue past first 3 routes for 15m to steel rungs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Herminator

Start: The far lefthand route on the ledge. Watch out for the bees!

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

25Sport 23m
2 *** Highside

FA: M.Pircher, 1997

23Sport 23m
3 ** Hoderlump

FA: M.Pircher, 1997

24Sport 23m
4 ** Hysteresis

needs new bolts.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury, 1997

23Sport 23m
5 * Histrionix

FA: M.Pircher,G.Trutnovsky, 1997

22Sport 23m
6 ** Hisbollah

FA: M.Pircher,J.Smoothy, 1997

24Sport 12m
7 * Hillbilly

Start: The 1st route on the ledge.

FA: M.Pircher,G.Trutnovsky, 1997

24Sport 15m
8 ** He-Man

Steepness.

Start: In the cave. Traverse to arete and up.

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

26Sport 15m
9 *** She Male

Steepness Plus.

Start: As for He Man but straight out through the roof.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

28Sport 15m
10 * The Fat Controller

Start: Batman. A few metres to the right 'She Male'. Near the right side of the cave.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

29Sport 20m
11 Nancy Boy

Extension is open for takers.

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

26Sport 15m
12 * Leftism

Start: Above small boulder to the left of the access point. Traverses left.

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

24 RSport 18m
13 ** Forever Midnight

Start: As for L but straight up.

FA: Derek Toulalan

27Sport 20m
14 Funk Soul Brother

Traverse.

Start: Traverse from 'Hillbilly' anchors right. 'Access' for the next 3 routes.

FA: M.Pircher,S.Grkovic, 1999

18Sport 12m
15 * Kung Fu Fighting

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

22Sport 12m
16 * Fast as Lightning

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

23Sport 12m
17 * A Little Bit Frightening

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

23 RSport 12m
18 Project 1 projectTrad
19 * Gluten Glutton

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

25Sport 15m
20 * The Diary of Ann Spank

FA: S.Steward, 1998

24Sport 15m
21 * Rooky of the Year

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

24Sport 15m
22 * Strutt Your Funky Stuff

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

23Sport 15m
23 * Who the Fuck is Alice?

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

23Sport 15m
24 * Greg's Route

1st route on the ledge. Above and right of fixed rope.

FA: J.Grant, 1998

22Sport 15m
25 Project (John) projectUnknown
26 Wingman Anytime

Start: Lefthand route on the ledge proper.

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

21Sport 15m
27 Bullshit Iceman

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

22Sport 15m
28 Twenty Something

FA: S.Steward, 1997

23Sport 15m
29 Eurotic

Start: Righthand route on the ledge.

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

22Sport 15m
30 Driving the Fat Farang

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

20Sport 13m
31 Same Same But Different

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

22Sport 13m
32 Subwoofer

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

19Sport 13m
33 Project Trad

1.6.13. Hat Hill Crag 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

West facing cliff in progress.

Descent Notes:

Rap anchors on all routes.

History:

Neil and co weren't the first visitors this to cliff. They found one old FH and dynabolt and some ringbolt notches on the left wall - circa 2000s?

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Mad Hatter

Starts at left edge of cave, on the right side of the orange overhung wall. Undercut start then up slopers to big break. Big reach to next break then hand traverse left across jugs to crux move going back up again. Finish up sustained edges then easier ground.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

25Sport 17m, 8
2 ** Fedora

Central line of the overhung orange wall. Starts just right of small tree growing at base of cliff. Sustained pumpy climbing on mostly big jugs. Runout to anchor.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

22Sport 18m, 8
3 Charcoal Is The New Black

New jenga project in the works.

Hard move up the mini arete to start then traverse right under the roof for 5m then let the big dynamic moves start. Bolting in progress.

Sport Project
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Walk 50m left along narrow vegetated ledge to flat ground and vertical wall with major right facing slabby corner crack.

4 Swallow the Fly - Neil's project

Left facing flake up overhung orange wall on left side of crag. Starts in small cave with undercut start onto shelves. Figure the lower crux (go direct if you are super tall, or slightly right). Amble up slabby section for a few metres then blast up the big flake.

Sport Project 20m, 9
5 Corner crack (project?)

May have been climbed previously. At left of cliff is this slabby splitter hand crack corner. It ends at roof - traverse right and up into thin corner (old piton and screw gate in crack). At top of corner traverse left (maybe - looks hard) into easier left facing corner finish. Lone dynabolt and FH on top of cliff to belay from.

Trad 18m
6 Hat Trick - Bundy Project

Start at base of arete, and get established on thin holds. Up wall to big moves on the orange streak. maybe 24ish ??

FA: Project - Jason Lammers

Sport Project 18m

1.6.14. Pulpit Rock 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.327786, -33.621077

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The crack behind

FA: C Ivan, T Battey

9Unknown 63m
2 Cleft Palate 11Unknown 90m
3 Easy Route 10Unknown
4 Lectern 13Unknown 17m
5 Rostrum 9Unknown 16m
6 Arete of atonement

FA: H Brotchie, R Vining

8Unknown 42m
7 Soap Box 8Unknown 23m
1.6.14.1. Bellbird Wall area 8 routes in Crag
Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad
Description:© (bundybear)

Steep North East facing wall, 100m high, and a 50m high lower cliff.

Approach:© (bundybear)

A good wall for hot afternoons (take a jumper, it by very cold if the wind picks up) and cold mornings (we've climbed in t-shirts while it's snowing there). There are also some older routes described in the Warwick Williams Grose Guide on the wall below the lookout and on the actual 'Pulpit' Rock below the lookout, and a modern mixed route on the lower cliff directly below Bellbird wall area.

Access: Park at 'Pulpit' Rock (Hat Hill Rd, Blackheath) carpark and walk down towards the 'Pulpit' Rock lookouts. Turn off left at the 12th drain (wide wooden drains cross this track) after about 200m. Walk down a faint track that trends rightward, initially parrallel to the main track and then down a cairned ridge for about 60m till you reach rap station. The left most rap station is over 'Stone Poem'. The rap station over the Next Doctor (also used for Bellbird) is to the right and further down hill. One bolt can be seen and clipped to help reach around the block to the two bolt anchor. There is a third anchor at the top of Bellbird but this is not recommended for rapping unless you were to leave extending slings

BellBird Wall is in Red, other routes as marked on Topo. BellBird and 'The Next Doctor' have shared rap station.

'Under the Influence' is accessed from the base of the 'Bellbird Wall' double raps, then by walking around sandy alcove (climbers left) to short rap off bolts down gully, and another rap from the routes belay bolts to base of lower cliff. See topo for this route.

GPS co-ordinates for the top cliff rap point are S33 37.244 E150 19.739

1.6.15. Perry's Lookdown 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.346103, -33.598714

Description:© (Macciza)

Areas with some big time air and big time sun. This crag gets sun from dawn until about 4pm in winter, so if its sunny you definitely want cool air temps or a breeze. In summer, it goes into the shade at 3pm.

Approach:© (Macciza)

End of Hat Hill Rd. From the carpark/campground, head L and find a track through the scrub, follow this for 100m to a short descent gully. A 10m fixed rope on the far (west) side shows the easy way down. Once in the gully, head L (west) for about 50m to find the Date With Density fixed ropes, or move to the R (east) side of the gully then straight downhill for 30m to find Red Edge and Parched. When approaching Red Edge, you will see the Parched Wall abseil anchor first - big shiny DUBs on a ledge to your left (easily approached but take care). The Red Edge anchors are harder to find, but from the Parched DUB they are only about 10m R (east). Refer to the topo photos below for more details. The Parched anchors can only be used to reach the ground if you have at least one very long rope - there are NO anchors within 120m or so of the ground. (A single 180m rope reaches all the way from the top to the bottom). This probably means that the main Red Edge abseil (which starts about 15m lower than the Parched abseil) is about 165m (rather than 200m as written in previous guides). However this has not yet been tested so make sure you have plenty of rope either way!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Red Edge

Awesome! Rap in & you just gotta climb out. Rap 200m down the SE side (left side, facing in) of the arête. Look for the "black tree" (its a casuarina tree, shown in two photo topos here - not all the black burnt gum trees nearby ;)), and the DRB is 5m uphill from there. They are painted red and tricky to spot. Fix a 20m rope to these DRBs, down to the top of the main cliff. Don't solo down this bit! Once atop the main cliff, it's a massive free hanging abseil so you need a 200m rope, or multiple ropes (eg 4x50m) tied together so be ready to abseil past knots. Take a double set of cams, and brackets.

  1. 40m 23. L side of slabby grey arête. 3 carrots plus, in order, cams: #0.5, #1-1.5, #3.5, #0.5-1, #2. DBB.

  2. 40m 25 or 22M0 if you aid the start. Up the L side of the arête with 5 carrots (4th one hidden over to the right), plus cams #0.5-1, #2.5,3, #1.5,3. DBB.

  3. 30m 23. L side of arete (2 carrots) then R side (2 carrots) to orange slab (big cams). Bolt & cam belay.

  4. 25m 25, or 24M0 if you pull on the 2nd bolt. Up to 3rd bolt then photogenic traverse L to arete, and up its L side. 5 bolts to DBB.

  5. 35m 24. L side of final arête. 3 bolts, cams #1, #1.5,2, #3, #1-2. Bolt & tree belay.

  6. 20m scramble up to the "black tree" where you started.

FA: Law / Payton / Moon / Kondos, 1999

26Mixed 190m, 20
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Never Say Never

The left facing corner crack left of the smooth orange wall between 'Slipstream' and DwD. 4 pitches. Start: Bash thru the jungle without falling off the cliff. This is a fantastic looking line when viewed from the Date with Density wall, but the rock is reportedly quite poor.

FA: Wilson, B Harington, 1999

20Trad 110m
3 Bear Hug

This route is not at Perrys Lookdown but actually 1km to the west at Anvil Rock - this write-up should be under a separate Anvil Rock section. Technical climbing with lots of air, followed by an easier second pitch. Abseil down (45m) to hanging rap station as for Ordinary route access. Suggest you leave the rope there for retreat. Take 10 draws.

  1. 20m (23) Lurch left off belay to flake, keep scuttling left a few moves then head diagonally up slab past funkiness on arete.

  2. 30m (20) Up delicate and sportingly bolted wall.

FA: Mikl Law, Niall Doherty (alt), 2008

23Sport 50m, 15
4 Bear Hug P2 only

FA: Mikl Law, Niall Doherty

20Unknown 30m
5 ** Ordinary Route

This route is not at Perrys Lookdown but actually 1km to the west at Anvil Rock - this write-up should be under a separate Anvil Rock section.

  1. 45m (22)

  2. 25m (23)

  3. 25m (24)

  4. 10m (12)

24 RSport 120m
6 *** Parched

AWESOME 'Steep', exposed.

FA: Zac & Mac, 2005

29Sport
7 * Moonlight Corner

BIG corner system visible to the west from the top of Zac's route. Climbs corner system but pops out to buttress ledges for belays. Thanks Justin.

FA: Mac, Zac & Jamie, 2000

22Trad 180m
8 *** A Date with Density

Lots of arêtes, beautifully sunny in winter, shady after 2pm in Summer. All U's, take 14 draws and water.

Start: Walk down 100m as for 'Red Edge' and walk west 50m along under small cliff, scramble down 2nd gully, follow rope to top rap anchor.

  1. 35m (25) Up corner and left onto arete

  2. 45m (22) Climb main corner , up corner and out right to arêtes

  3. 25m (25) Out left and up arete over sucking void

  4. 45m (18) Up slabs and walls. Bleay on left end of legde

  5. 45m (23) Right and up to rap station

FA: Ado, Mikl, 2000

24Sport 200m
9 ** Fat Yak

Consumer classic and the easiest route up this part of Perry's! Bring 12 draws, 2 x 50m ropes and zero bolt hangers.

Start: Rap 50m as per DwD to anchor with white tape. Then rap 45m down and rightish to double bolt belay next to big tree and large ledge.

  1. 40m (22) Thin technical face for 20m, then easier grey slab interspersed with two annoying Bluies shale band mantles. Belay at rings on ledge (ignore the double rings 2m below which you climb past).

  2. 20m (20) Move up and left of the belay and into supa orange rock to rest. Punch up steep prow to semi hanging belay next to little tree.

  3. 40m (21) Up the left side of long exposed arete to tricky mantle. Finish for the final few bolts with DwD.

FA: Jason Lammers, Neil Monteith, 2009

22Sport 100m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 ** Slipstream

Awesome, varied, beautiful in winter, catches the sun. 5 minutes walk, 5 pitches, 5 stars. Start: Easiest to rap down Date With Density and walk right 70m. You can also rap the route, as follows: from the top of the Date With Density rap, continue another 80m (maybe rope up) along the sketchy ledge / hanging swamp, partly with fixed ropes for the sketchiest bits. Then hand-over-hand 20m down fixed rope thru blade grass (steep) to little flat area. Rap off the tree near the bottom of the fixed ropes, or off the bottom end of the fixed ropes 10m further down near the clifftop, if you trust them. Rap 1: 30m to ledge and DUB (Double U-Bolt Belay), below a bulge. Rap 2: 30m to DUB on the arete. Rap 3: 15m swing right (looking in) to DUB below rooflet. Rap 4: 50m to monster ledge. Rap 5: Walk down scree for 15m then rap 53m off big tree to deck (leave sling if using 50m ropes) and walk around R to corner/chimney to start.

  1. 22m (23) Excellent but seems to be gaining a reputation as a sandbag. Start up twin-crack/chimney for 8m then trend L to DRB on ledge. About 7 UBs.

  2. 33m (22) Awesome sustained climbing up long arête. This pitch finishes on a long scree slope and is more like 40m if you want a big bomber tree for the belay, or 50+m if you go all the way to the bolt at the start of pitch 3. About 9 UBs. (Note, Pitch 1 & 2 can be combined (18 UBs) with 60m rope(s) but the tree you reach is underwhelming).

  3. 50m (23) Corner, then trend L to some of the best face climbing in the mountains. Fantastic pitch, and at least a grade easier than pitch 1, and maybe even easier than pitch 2! 12 U-bolts.

  4. 45m (22) Very cruxy. Grab roof flake then a very exposed cut loose above the void, to turn the lip. Much easier climbing up arete to DUB at 15m. Belay here if your second doesn't want 45m of rope stretch if they come off the roof move. Or, go another 30m up easy arête to DUB at back of cave. At least 10 U-bolts.

  5. 30m (23) Continuing the trend that not all 23s are created equal! Blast thru fun juggy roof/bulge past 3 UBs, then easily up right side of arete and through bushes to belay at tree with fixed ropes. 5 or 6 U-bolts. Exit up the fixed rope through vertical sword grass for 20m then left along hanging swamps for 80m to the usual walk-out. This walk-off is a bit sketchy - you might like to walk roped up 50m apart until the DWD rap point, so at least there'd always be a big tree below your rope to hopefully stop you from taking the 200m lob if you slip or the swamp collapses underfoot.

FA: Adrian Laing, Jon Sedon, mikl. Pitches 1 & 2 added by Mikl and Ado a year or two later., 2008

23Sport 120m, 44
11 ** This is Your Brain on Crack / Orange Jam / Play Misty For Me

The awesome crack 5m R of the start of Slipstream. 1) 20m 26 (++), The crack, to DRB. Lots of thin gear. 2) 30m 19, dirtier but easier. 1 FH, marginal gear for belay. Originally lead in one big pitch, before being retro'd. Ledge to ledge is fine if the second is ok with rope stretch on the hard climbing down low. Walk 20m L and finish up pitches 3-5 of Slipstream.

FA: Zac Vertrees and/or Monique Forestier, 2012

26Mixed 55m, 1
12 ** Walk the Chalk

Access: Probably easiest to rap down Date with Density and walk 100m west along the base to the start. Or, rap 2/3rds the way down Slipstream to the big ledge/scree slope, then walk 30m to the left (looking out) on slopey ledge to DUB at top of arete. 30m rap to DUB then 35m rap to ground. U-Bolts and gear.

  1. 33m (23) Up left-facing corner (large wires, cams up to hand-size) for 15m. hand traverse along ledge to u-bolt, then diagonally left to arete and up to DUB. 7 u-bolts and gear.

  2. 30m (27) Up stunning arete. 8 U-bolts. If you rapped the line put a 1m sling (1m) on the 2nd bolt when rapping the route so you can get out if you can't pull the moves. Or just rap off and escape up Slipstream.

FA: Adrian Laing, Jon Sedon, Nic Sellers, 2008

27Trad 65m
13 *** The Yak bites Back

The top 2 pitches of BB, but a rad route on its own. Some of the most perfect orange sandstone in the Blueys.

Start: Rap in as for DwD. Belay on ledge just above white sling.

  1. 40m (22) Up right on stellar orange rock into subtle corner scoopy thing. 10m up this head left across steep pumpy wall to climatic ledge mantle. Semi-hanging belay on small ledge.

  2. 15m (21) Start up on more sweet orange rock. Rad mantle, over bulge then up grey wall to top anchor.

FA: Niall Doherty, Jason Lammers, Neil Monteith & Gareth Llewellin, 2009

22Sport 55m
14 ** Beggars Belief 25Unknown 120m
15 ** Never Never Land

These are good additions for "Never Say Never". A Suggestion is to do "The Circuit" If climbing on single rope leave fixed rope on huge gum tree below "Slip Stream". Climb first 2 pitches of "Down Stream" Rap back down fixed rope, then climb "Never Never Land " walk along ledge and retrieve rap rope then climb "Never Say Never". A great 7 pitch day with a nice warm up.

Rap down Slip Stream. Once you have landed on the scree ledge you can rap off huge gum tree a few meters down and right from where you land. Rap slightly left. 53m rap, bring a sling to extend if using 50m rope. Once on the deck walk 5m left. There are 2 corners facing each other 7m apart in alcove both hitting a roof at 10m. The right corner is Down Stream .

Start: 55m below the start of Never say never is an alcove, left arete

  1. 25m (22) 25m Up arête past 3 carrots and natural pro, pul through roof then up crack to belay on small ledge at tree plus no 1 cams 2m above.

  2. 40m (20) Up crack, then continue up slabby arête past friends & 2 carrots, a no. 2 friend in slot on left of arête protects move to stance on right hand side of small roof, no.½ friend. Traverse under roof then climb left side of arête past a bolt to small ledge, easy wall to big ledge. Belay at small tree, backup with wires in 'Never Say Never'.

FA: Mark Wilson and Brendan Helmrich., 2009

22Mixed 65m, 5
16 Jark's Project

Justin Clark project awaiting an ascent when he gets fit again!

Unknown
17 ** Downstream

Start: Rap down Slip Stream. Once you have landed on the scree ledge you can rap off huge gum tree a few meters down and right from where you land. Rap slightly left. 53m rap, bring a sling to extend if using 50m rope. Once on the deck walk 5m left. There are 2 corners facing each other 7m apart in alcove both hitting a roof at 10m. The right corner is Down Stream .

  1. 15m (16) Up corner for 10m traverse under 4 metre roof to arête, belay on small footledge, semi hanging.

  2. 25m (16) Up corner crack belay off gum tree.

  3. 20m (16) Up crack and scree to gum you rapped off. Average pitch, better to rap down and climb 'Never Never Land'.

FA: Mark Wilson and Brendan Helmrich., 2009

16Trad 60m
18 *** Yak Banquet (The Easy Link-up)

A fabulous way up the main wall, taking in the easier pitches of the three main routes to make it a sustained 5 pitch sport route at grade 22.

  1. 30m (22) First pitch of 'Beggars Banquet'. Belay off large tree then scramble up left to...

  2. 45m (22) 2nd pitch of Date with Density to hanging belay.

  3. 40m (22) Traverse right to join into 'Fat Yak' pitch 1.

  4. 40m (22) 'Beggars Banquet' pitch 5.

  5. 15m (21) 'Beggars Banquet' pitch 6

22Sport 170m
19 Forgotten Corner (Project)

Corner to left of 'I Forget'

FA: Project Mac, 2000

Trad
20 ** The Rap Star

A mega long single pitch of pumpy orange jugs and limestoney rock. Climbs the wall you rap down from the top of The Date With Density past a bizzilion bolts. Reachy crux.

Start: Starts at rap anchor 50m down the wall (as for the belay for 'Fat Yak' pitch 2).

24Sport 50m, 20
21 I Forget

Up slab left of Red Edges final pitch

May need gear at end or rebolt.

Start: Do first rap for 'Red Edge' and you can't miss it.

FA: Mac N Zac, 2005

23Trad
22 ** Beggars Banquet

A few tasty morsels pinched from under the probing eyes of the locals. Climbs face right of DwD. Varied climbing with a different style on every pitch. The top two pitches are worth doing in their own right as a three star route, with simple single 50m rap access.

Start: Rap to ground via 4 x 50m raps as for Date With Density.

  1. 30m (22) Best pitch of the route! 'Steep' right facing flake to start then continuous pumpy climbing to finish on ledge with large tree belay.

  2. 15m (17) Scramble un-roped 20m up left to large ledge. Rope up again then ditty right across face to enter hand crack, and up it to ledge below corner. Belay off large tree and single ring.

  3. 20m (24) Wildly contorted. Couple of chossy moves to enter steep stemming corner, out right under roof to small ledge. Out right again and onto thin face. Up to hanging belay (same belay below P3 of DwD)

  4. 40m (24) Layaway up right leading very thin seam for 20m, then join into 'Fat Yak' P1 for 20m of easier slab past two ugly horizontals to comfy bolt belay on small ledge (the higher of the two set of anchors)

  5. 40m (22) Da pumper pitch. Up right on stellar orange rock into subtle corner scoopy thing. 10m up this head left across steep pumpy wall to climatic ledge mantle. Semi-hanging belay on small ledge.

  6. 15m (21) Orange rock mantle, over bulge then up grey wall to top anchor.

24Sport 160m

1.6.16. Hanging Rock 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.312218, -33.582902

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Craigs Effort 19Unknown 30m
2 ** Speak of the Devil 22Unknown 170m
3 *** Oranges Poranges 24Unknown 45m
4 * The Black Rose 27Unknown 45m
5 The Edge 19Unknown 25m
6 Garth's Route 25Unknown 35m
7 ** The Great Outdoors 23Unknown 70m
8 *** Northern Exposure 23Unknown 55m
9 * Wild Wild West 23Unknown 45m
10 * Oranges and Lemons 20Unknown 65m
11 ** Burramoko Buttress 19Unknown 150m
12 Sunset Dreaming 21Unknown 110m
13 On The Wallaby Track 18Unknown 85m
14 Panic on Hanging Rock 18Unknown 80m
15 Stormfront 22Unknown 45m
16 * Shoot Your Shot 23Unknown 25m
17 Kiss or Be Kissed 19Unknown 60m
18 *** Hot and Hunky 23Unknown 20m
19 Mr & Mrs Attila the Hun -Unknown
20 ** Big, Meaty Pork Chops 23Unknown 45m
21 ** Human Cannonball 25Unknown 45m
22 Hot Meat 27Unknown 12m
23 Pants Packenn Mania! 21Unknown 55m
24 Hayabusa 18Unknown 25m
25 Tarkan Corner 17 M5Aid 180m

1.6.17. Bald & Fossil Head 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.322026, -33.586631

Description:© (PThomson)

The main wall boasting the 210m 'Serendipitous Cracks' climb.

Approach:© (PThomson)

Travelling west along the Great Western 'Highway' through Blackheath, turn right onto Hat Hill Rd. Follow this to Hat Hill (signposted, on the left) and continue another 400m to a small clearing on the left, with parking on the right. Park here, and walk west along the foottrail up on to the obvious ridge. 30-40min walking brings you to a small saddle on the ridge before 'Bald Head', to your immediate right will be an obvious descent into a gully (If you accidently walk past this point, you will head up onto 'Bald Head' an the end of the obvious trail).

Break trail here (hide your packs and extra gear) and head right into the eastern gully, eventually reaching a (mostly) dry creek bed. Follow the creek, making one 25m abseil en route. Make your way around the base of the cliff when the scree makes doing so possible, and continue along until you come across the first obvious crack seen when the entire wall is in view.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Another Kojak Moment 22Sport 45m
2 The Opportunistic Pathogen 22Sport 48m
3 ** The Dimerisation Interface 22Sport 52m
4 *** A Pill for your Vain Pain 24Sport 50m
5 ** Rocket Girl 23Sport 50m
6 ** Weaponhead 25Sport 48m
7 ** Just Don't Smoke 26Unknown 42m
8 *** Chemotherapy 26Sport 45m
9 ** Lunge Cancer 24Sport 45m
10 Open Project projectUnknown
11 ** Baldilicious 19Sport 25m
12 Project (Pat) projectUnknown
13 ** Thinning on Top 24Unknown 35m
14 ** Comb Over 21Sport 35m
15 *** Advanced Air Studio 20Sport 35m
16 Serendipitous Cracks direct finish

Vertical slab climbing over 150m of open air. Mostly protected by carrot bolts (take bolt plates) except for a few Cam placements to prevent run-outs. Rock is a bit brittle, currently graded 20, but will probably get harder as holds continue to break.

Start: On the ledge at the top of Pitch 4 of 'Serendipitous Cracks', go straight up the main wall following a line of carrot bolts, instead of traversing right and heading up the Chimney for pitch 5 of 'Serendipitous Cracks'.

20Trad 40m
17 * Serendipitous Cracks

Start: A blatantly obvious wide crack with 2 roofs on the first pitch. This is the first crack you will come to as you exit from dry creek bed approach. A small tree is directly in front of the start of the crack, and a rusty carabiner and old shoe mark the start of the climb.

  1. 35m (18) Pleasant climbing up the wide crack, sling the occasional chockstone. Pull through roof on huge holds hand size crack to next roof, step left and up to comfy belay in sentry box.

  2. 45m (18) Steeply out of sentry box on to wall, continue up wall via crack/flake to stance (steep for the grade). Short crack then corner to large sloping ledge, belay at large gum tree.

  3. 40m (18) Rightward arching crack for a few metres to join leftward arching corner with large groove in the left wall. Up the corner then step left and continue up the groove to loose ledge. Traverse 5m left over big block to small stance directly under flake of pitch 4. Belay #3 and #3.5 friend in wall above ledge.

  4. 35m (18) Pull on to wall using big ironstones. Vertical wall climbing using flake for gear for a few metres then the angle eases, ramble up to final headwall. If doing direct finish, belay from carrot bolts at base of wall, or if doing the original finish traverse right across wall to ledge and belay 10m before chimney.

  5. 50m (16) Traverse into chimney/gully. Climb up until gully steepens then escape right along ledge to arete (belay). A few moves to top.

FA: Mark Wilson, Craig Hale, 2000

18 RTrad 210m
18 ** Beche de Merl 19Unknown 200m
19 Figgetit 18Unknown 50m
1.6.17.1. Fossil Head 2 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Sport

1.6.18. Mt Boyce 187 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.263944, -33.610413

1.6.18.1. Browntown 12 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.262227, -33.605433

1.6.18.2. Boycetown 10 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.262061, -33.604128

1.6.18.3. Absquealers 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.264750, -33.607446

Description:© (wombly)

The walls surrounding the gully below the abseilers training area

1.6.18.4. Upper Wall 13 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.265790, -33.610459

Description:© (mjw)

Short and steep sport climbing. 5 mins walk from the second carpark. All the old bolts and junk removed 12/12

1.6.18.5. Abseil Gully 18 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.264973, -33.610740

Description:

Generally, this area gets morning shade and arvo sun. More specifically: the Eyrie Wall gets sun from about 11am; Afghan Wall stays shady until about 1pm and the Girl in the Mirror Wall is shady until noon.

Approach:

Drive N along Station St from Blackheath for about 2km until you get to the signposted "Parking Area No. 2". Park here (having a bit of clearance helps to get into the carpark). Walk downhill on an obvious track for 5 minutes. The sport crag found on your R is Vambrace Wall. Walk another 50m down from here and you're at the top of Abseil Gully.

Descent Notes:

This is a rap-in and climb-out crag. Best idea is to bring a dedicated abseil rope to fix in place all day. A short rope (25m) is enough for the Abseil Gully abseil, but if you leave a rope here you need to get used to the idea that it will almost certainly get used by everyone else at the crag. If you plan to climb mostly on Afghan Wall or Mean Streak Wall then it's most convenient to fix a 50m abseil rope down your chosen wall. That way you don't have a long barefoot scramble and don't have to carry walking shoes up every climb.

1.6.18.6. Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall 25 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles
1.6.18.7. One of the Best Area 10 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Sport, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.264700, -33.612337

Description:© (secretary)

A stunning area with some very high quality routes and rock. Blue Mountains climbing at its best.

The Topo is referenced to the Pircher/Carter Blue Mountains climbing guide. Descriptions and Topo from Roger Bourne.

1.6.18.8. Spoilt Brats Wall 9 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Sport, Aid and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.264575, -33.613618

Description:© (secretary)

One of the best pieces of (climbable) rock around.

Approach:© (secretary)

The glorious wall at the bottom of solo gully.

1.6.18.9. Smallpox 7 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.264695, -33.613810

Description:© (secretary)

Short and steep and perched on the edge of a much bigger cliff. A good place for winter 'training' since it can be protected from the wind, and gets the sun during the day.

Approach:© (secretary)

This area is on the upper cliffline above the 'Spoilt brats..' area. 'Access' via Walkdown 'Gully'.

1.6.18.10. Solo Gully 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.263380, -33.614170

Approach:© (mjw)

The Area between 'Solo Gully' and Walkdown 'Gully'. Best access is via Walkdown 'Gully'.

1.6.18.11. Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall 25 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles
1.6.18.12. Walk-down Gully 39 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.262536, -33.615089

Approach:© (mjw)

Routes to the left and right of The 'Gully'. Routes are listed LEFT to RIGHT.

1.6.18.13. Crevasse Gully 9 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Unknown
Description:© (willmonks)

See page 89 of SRC guide.

1.6.19. Mt Blackheath 86 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.255376, -33.641503

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sugarland Express 15Unknown
2 Stuntman 20Unknown
3 Gimme Shelter 20Unknown
4 The Great Escape 19Unknown
5 Case of the Smilling Stiffs 19Unknown
6 Pink Panther 18Unknown
7 Redline 7000 19 M2Aid
8 Phallanger 21Unknown
9 Time Bomb 18Unknown
10 Thanatos 16Unknown
11 High Plains Drifter 24Unknown 40m
12 Isis 21Unknown 40m
13 Crack Unnamed 13Unknown 40m
14 Doc 16Unknown
15 No More Wolves 14Unknown
16 Honey on the Wrong Side 19Unknown
17 According to Miss Bornstein 16Unknown
18 Grandpa Chook 17Unknown
19 Absoloodle 18Aid 40m
20 Polybius 20Unknown 40m
21 Kerisal 23Unknown 40m
22 On Any Sunday 19Unknown 45m
23 Hombre 20Unknown 38m
24 * Sargasso Sea 21Unknown 35m
25 Jericho 16Unknown 38m
26 El Desperado 19Unknown
27 Bandalero 19Unknown
28 South of the Border 23Unknown
29 Border Crossing 23Unknown
30 Bitter Aloes 10Unknown
31 Pussy Galore 11Unknown
32 Felix 18Unknown 25m
33 Jokerman 16Unknown
34 Laughing Matter 13Unknown
35 Corner Unnamed 13Unknown
36 Battle of the Bulge 22 M1Aid
37 Hi-tension 23Unknown
38 Electric Sheen 19Unknown
39 Highliner 24Unknown
40 Jive Bunny 23Unknown
41 Senile Dementia 18Unknown 40m
42 High Riser 20Unknown 30m
43 Hangover 18Unknown
44 Ferny Chimney 16Unknown 40m
45 Astragal 17Unknown
46 Talking With Your Mouth Full 20Unknown 12m
47 Burrito 16Unknown 12m <