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Table of contents

1. Blue Mountains 5,144 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.368465, -33.633147

Unique Features And Strengths:

Massive amounts of rock, easily accessible high quality routes in a beautiful location.


Driving up into the Blue Mountains is like entering a fortress, for once you are up in them, you are on a plateau surrounded on all sides by cliffs. It is in this almost suburban bush surrounding, that some of Australia's best climbing resides. From big adventurous walls, to smaller single pitch sport climbs, to fantastic trad climbing, the Blueys has a bit of it all. All this comes amidst the smoky blue green vistas of the Blueys, which on a good day are so peaceful you will never want to leave.

The Blue Mountains are a unique destination offering a very civilised climbing experience, courtesy of places like Katoomba and Blackheath, that sport a healthy cafe culture. The mornings can begin with a coffee in Blackheath and a visit to the bakery. The day can then be spent thrashing yourself on some of the countless sport routes, or scaring yourself silly on some sandy trad horror show. The evening can then culminate in Katoomba with a nice café meal and possibly a film. For a more traditional experience head to Mt Victoria for the pub, and the rickety old theatre. Most of the crags are within easy driving distance of each other, and in some cases easy walking distance. The most popular area is around Blackheath which offers the highest concentration of quality climbing to be found. There are many other areas though which are very good, most of which are within half an hour to an hours drive away. For most people these days, the Blueys is really a sport climbing destination. Apart from Nowra, there is no other place where you will find so many sport routes. There is still plenty of trad climbing though, even though the sandstone is not as suited to trad climbing as the Grampians and Mt Arapiles, being generally poorer in quality. Mt Piddington and Mt York are probably two of the best places to trad climb, although both crags offer some sport climbing. Around Blackheath the best sport area is Centennial Glen, although Upper Shipley probably offers more options for the intermediate climber.

For the beginner climber the Blue Mountains is nowhere near as good as Arapiles or the Grampians, as the easier routes do tend to be the chossier ones. For the intermediate to advanced climber though, the Blue Mountains is fantastic. The beginner climber should not be put off however, as the Blue Mountains probably has more climbing companies offering introductions to climbing than anywhere else in the country. The Blueys is a fantastic place to spend time, although it can be a little more expensive than other areas, due to having so many more temptations.

Access Issues:

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.


An hour and a half’s drive west of Sydney (80kms). There is a train line that runs right across the top of the Blue Mountains plateau and many stations (e.g. Blackheath) are in very close proximity to the crags. There is also a bus service.

Where To Stay:

Camping isn't fantastic; there are free campgrounds in the Megalong Valley, Mt York and Perrys Lookdown but they are a long way from the crags if you don't have a car and have limited facilities. Blackheath has a BMCC operated campground which offers security and showers and is in the centre of the main climbing hub. Katoomba has plenty of hostels and there are many bed and breakfast type places through the mountains, if you can afford it. It really is a place where a car is needed to make the best of the area.


Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

1.1. Lower Blue Mountains 392 routes in Crag

Boulder, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.605127, -33.744011

Unique Features And Strengths:

The lower mountains features a variety of areas from gorges, gullies, gulches, caves, waves, and much more. Renowned for its loose sandstone, the climbing can be quite friable!


The lower mountains is made up of several jurisdictions, including national park and crown land. The rock quality varies, with much of the area still un'scent.

Access Issues:

Be sensible.


From Sydney cross the Neapean river and you are there!

1.1.1. Slab World 22 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.574291, -33.735419

Description:© (secretary)

Slab World is located in the Lower Blue Mountain's near Springwood. Head to Martins lookout on Farms road at Springwood. Park the car at end of dirt track and head towards the lookout. 20 metres before the lookout, turn right along the path. Continue along path for about 15 minutes heading into valley. After a steepish section and a left turnn you will see a big cairn and faint track on the left,follow to the cliff line along for roughly 200 metres. Spider Wall is up high on a ledge, while the main wall is 100 metres further along. There is plenty of rock on broken down cliffs for further development should anyone be keen and not mind the walk.

Approach:© (secretary)

Slab World is located in the Lower Blue Mountain's near Springwood.

Head to Martins lookout on Farms road at Springwood. Park the car at end of dirt track and head towards the lookout. 20 metres before the lookout, turn right along the path. Continue along path for about 15 minutes heading into valley. After a steepish section and two switchbacks in the path, a large orange cave will be seen on the left. Head to cave and follow the cliff line along for roughly 200 metres. 'Spider' Wall is up high on a ledge, while the main wall is 100 metres further along.

There is plenty of rock on broken down cliffs for further development should anyone be keen and not mind the walk. Spider wall 2 routes in Crag
All Sport
Description:© (secretary)

Up high in corner on a small ledge Main Wall 20 routes in Crag
Mostly Sport
Description:© (secretary)

Slabby to vertical wall up to 15m high.

1.1.2. The Heights 17 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.651448, -33.664765

Description:© (secretary)

The Crag is small by Blue Mountain standard's, being about 100 metre's long broken up by several large caves. 'Purgatory Wall' recieves sun about Midday, while 'Bull Ant Wall' is in sun up to about 2-3pm. Kev's boulder is shaded from around 11am onwards. The wall's range from slabs to over vertical and are all quite short. If it looks like it might rain up in the Bluey's 'The Heights' might make a good alternative.

Approach:© (secretary)

The Height's is located in the Lower Blue Mountain's near Winmalee overlooking the Nepean river.

From Springwood head north along Hawkesbury Road to the until you get to the Hawkesbury lookout where you park your car. Head down the road, near the end of the barriers step over and follow the faint track. Once at the cliff edge, head left for about 100 metres where you can scramble down to the base of 'Purgatory Wall'. Purgatory Wall 10 routes in Crag
All Sport
Description:© (secretary)

A slabby Wall about 9 metres high with some good rock. All climbs are described from left to right Bull Ant Wall 7 routes in Crag
Mostly Sport
Description:© (secretary)

An orange steepish wall about 10 metres high. All climbs are described from left to right.

1.1.3. Norton's Basin 79 routes in Crag

Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.617301, -33.858742

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Arrival 18 Unknown 12m
2 It's a fine line 18 Unknown 10m
3 Pain 17 Unknown 10m
4 It's a tough life 14 Unknown 10m
5 Just the ticket 13 Unknown 10m
6 Last of the orchids 15 Trad 14m
7 False start 17 Unknown 15m
8 Red Hot 18 Unknown 15m
9 Mistaken Identity 16 Unknown 15m
10 Rib tickler 16 Unknown 12m
11 LFC 19 Unknown 10m
12 Kickstart 19 Unknown 10m
13 MI 10 Unknown 10m
14 IPNTCIYM 13 Unknown 10m
15 Picnic

FA: Luxfor, Cameron & Chambers, 1993

8 Unknown 10m
16 Marchfly Madness

FA: Cameron, Chambers & Luxford, 1993

14 Unknown 8m West Side Crag 28 routes in Crag
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.615906, -33.861311 East Side Crag 21 routes in Crag
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.617909, -33.859995 Riverside Crag 14 routes in Crag
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.615918, -33.859206

1.1.4. Mulgoa lookout 1 route in Area

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.617690, -33.818550


Some sandy routes, old carrots and cookie cave. Overlooks Nepean river


Drive to end of Fairlight road, Mulgoa.


Stu and Dan i think developed most of the cookie cave. not sure about the old carrots on the lookout boulder. Dan and Todd threw some staino in round 09. Bolt Wall 0 routes in Cliff

mixed and TR routes


at the carpark. head back down the road and veer off right into the bush.

Descent Notes:

head towards the water till it starts to decend the head SW. climb faces South Cookie cave 0 routes in Boulder

Cool little cave with variety of problems.


walk straight down path (dont fang left like your going to the lookout) after bout 200 meters where the track goes right pull off left and follow faint track


stumbled onto it when scoping out the area. Dan was, and Stu still is Living in mulgoa. im pretty sure they know most about it. Lookout Climbs 1 route in Sector

Long/Lat: 150.617871, -33.818440


Some old andy mixed and TR routes. i route with RBs


head to the lookout. lookout boulder has some old carrots and decent pro for top anchors.

Descent Notes:

Todds helm. get to underneath the lookout. face the water and head right scrambling down slightly for 30m. you should be able to see ring bolts on the rock


Carrots and lookout climbs unknown. Todd bolted the helm and is developing other mixed/sport routes in the area

1.1.5. Glenbrook Gorge 101 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.629642, -33.781657

Description:© (PThomson)

Old school adventurous mostly-trad climbing on rock of varying quality. A few classics (Annelid Crack/Kippax Crack in particular) combined with a quiet, majestic location and located 45min closer to Sydney than the main Blueys crags make this worth a look.

Useful Info: The lower section of the cliffline to the left and right of the first pitch of 'Annelid Crack' is the lower cliffline. Immediately right of the crack is I'd Rather be Cable Skiiing (16), 'New Sensations' (16) and 'Powder Finger' (21), continuing past many climbs to Tungston Tips (22) at the end of this wall. Immediately left of the Annelid crack is 'Airstrike' (21), 'Flying Pickets' (21) and Tas (21).

Follow the lower cliffline downstream (east) past several more climbs and you will find 'Lady Killer' (21) marked in a small cave, with 'Three Cans Later' (16) and 'Mephisto' (22) above it on a small ledge. Continuing east you'll find a gully which leads up to the middle-section of the 'Main Wall'. Heading straight up the gully brings you to a cave cut from orange rock, with Kevin's Wall (12), Kevin's Corner (14/16), and 'Good Old Days' (21) immediately to the left of it.

Heading upstream (west) through the cave brings you to 'Fleet Street' (19), the clearly marked 'Dispute Chimney' (14), and the overhung 'Into the Void' (22). Continuing west through the next cave brings you to the end of this ledge, with the second pitch of 'Annelid Crack' (11) to your left, and the mixed crack climbing of 'Purple Maze' (15) just after the end of the ledge. At this point now you are also almost directly beneath Tunnel View 'Lookout'.

Heading back downstream to where you came up the 'Gully' and beyond, you will pass by 'Puddin Puller' (18) in an obvious square-corner, with 'Paradise' (17), 'Jerks in Heaven' (19) and 'East of Eden' (19) next to it. At this point the elevated section ends, and you can follow another path back down to the creek.

Continuing east along the edge of the creek you arive at the imposing South-Eastern wall, with the roof-crack Wokkers Roof (24) about 50 metres above. The climbing wall ends another hundred metres downstream, almost directly opposite where the train emerges from the tunnel on the clifftops opposite you.

Approach:© (PThomson)

Heading west from Sydney along the Great Western 'Highway', turn left onto Ross Street in Glenbrook. Follow it around through the main street of Glenbrook, then turn right onto Euroka Rd, and then left onto Bruce Rd. Follow Bruce Rd until you arrive at the entrance to Glenbrook National Park.

Park up near the old Information Center (you don't need to pay for park entry if you park here), and follow the trail from the South-Eastern corner of the carpark, marked as leading to 'Glenbrook Gorge'.

Follow the track downwards for about 5 minutes until you reach the creek. Follow the creek east for a few minutes (the North-Western climbing area is up the hill to your left, here) until you find a safe place to cross to the southern side. After crossing continue east along the river for another five minutes and you should see 'Annelid Crack' (sometimes called Kippax crack) on the wall to your right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Cosmo's Tasmanian Devilry

FA: N Smith, R McMahon, T Williams, 2000

19 Trad 10m
2 * Artist's Crack

FA: W Moon, P Chalkley, 2000

17 Trad 10m
3 * Inspiration Crack

FA: W Moon, P Chalkley, 2000

13 Trad 10m
4 Controversy Corner

FA: F Moon, B Cameron, 2000

18 R Trad 12m
5 Tungsten Tips

FA: W Moon, B Cameron, 2000

22 Trad 12m
6 Tas 26

FA: B Cameron, N Smith, 2000

21 Sport 12m
7 Lady Killer

Marked climb in a small cave.

FA: S Chambers, P Mende, 1979

21 Trad 10m
8 Adrenalin Deficiency

FA: W Moon, 2000

19 Trad 17m
9 One Perfect Day

FA: B Cameron, 2000

17 R Trad 12m
10 The Toxic Avenger

FA: R Le Breton, M Klien, C Bennett, 2000

21 R Sport 17m
11 Hang Five

This crack is on the lower cliffline directley below kepax crack, a bit dirty at the top. 1 carrot bolt over the first ledge

16 Mixed 12m, 1
12 Flying Pickets

FA: T Williams, 2000

21 Trad 10m
13 New Sensations

FA: R Le Breton, C Bennett, A Mason, 2000

16 Trad 25m
14 Mephisto

FA: S Moon, B Cameron, 2000

22 Trad 12m
15 Last Grasp

FA: T Williams, N Smith, R McMahon, 2000

18 R Trad 10m
16 Powder Finger

FA: B Cameron, W Moon, 2000

21 R Trad 17m
17 Geriatric Gymnast

FA: F Moon, B Cameron, 2000

20 Trad 17m
18 Pox

FA: W Moon, J Smoothy, 2000

17 Trad 12m
19 Airstrike

FA: S Moon, 2000

21 R Trad 10m
20 Three Cans Later

FA: W Moon, F Moon, B Cameron, 2000

16 Trad 12m
21 Synthax Error

FA: P Matysek, T Williams, 2000

21 Trad 17m
22 I'd Rather be Cable Skiing

FA: C Bennett, R Le Breton, M Hall, 2000

16 Sport 10m
23 Technical Torque

FA: B Cameron, W Moon, F Moon, 2000

19 R Trad 12m
24 Inconclusion

FA: R McMahon, N Smith, T Williams, 2000

16 Trad 10m South-Eastern Wall 16 routes in Sector
All Trad
Description:© (PThomson)

Route descriptions can be found here: http://www.sydneyclimbing.com/xgo_glenbrook_gorge.html (Route Descriptions taken from 'Rockclimbs in the Lower Blue Mountains' (1994) by Harry Luxford and Bruce Cameron, and reproduced with permission by Peter Monks for Sydney Rockies.) Main Wall 49 routes in Sector
Mostly Trad
Description:© (PThomson)

Route descriptions can be found here: http://www.sydneyclimbing.com/xgo_glenbrook_gorge.html (Route Descriptions taken from 'Rockclimbs in the Lower Blue Mountains' (1994) by Harry Luxford and Bruce Cameron, and reproduced with permission by Peter Monks for Sydney Rockies.) Lower Cliffline 0 routes in Sector Upper Cliffline 9 routes in Sector
All Trad
Description:© (PThomson)

Route descriptions can be found here: http://www.sydneyclimbing.com/xgo_glenbrook_gorge.html (Route Descriptions taken from 'Rockclimbs in the Lower Blue Mountains' (1994) by Harry Luxford and Bruce Cameron, and reproduced with permission by Peter Monks for Sydney Rockies.) North-Western Wall 3 routes in Sector
All Trad
Description:© (PThomson)

Route descriptions can be found here: http://www.sydneyclimbing.com/xgo_glenbrook_gorge.html (Route Descriptions taken from 'Rockclimbs in the Lower Blue Mountains' (1994) by Harry Luxford and Bruce Cameron, and reproduced with permission by Peter Monks for Sydney Rockies.)

1.1.6. The Surgery 29 routes in Cliff

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.603859, -33.753065


A great long bouldering cave tucked down behind some houses in blaxland.

Avoid like herpes after rain or on humid days.

All the problems have been renamed in a "Surgery" theme as the original names have been lost to antiquity. Names and grades are welcome for the unnamed problems, I just haven't done them.


At Blaxland, turn off the Great Western Highway onto Coughlan Rd. Follow Coughlan Rd past the High School and over the railway bridge, and take the first right onto Honeyeater Cres. Where the road turns left, keep going straight ahead down what looks like a driveway. Follow to the bottom of the hill and around to the left. Park at the end of the straight just before the road starts heading back up the hill.

Descent Notes:

From the carpark, find and follow the faint trail heading through the bush and down the hill. When it intersects another trail, turn left and continue until you see another faint trail (marked by a cairn) heading down towards the creek.

Follow this towards the creek (do NOT cross the creek), and then follow the base of the cliffline around to the left, continuing until the cliff opens up to reveal The Surgery.


This spot was developed by Ed Thornhill back in the mid/late nineties. With the help of a few other friends. From memory this area was said to of had a double digit traverse under the cave fa'd by Garth Miller. Dave Browning also did a dyno problem on the suspended rock that's just before the entrance thought to be v8 or 9. a few other strong friends of Ed's did stuff here Saxon johns and Ben Pearce I think

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jack-knife

Start from the big jug. Out and up. Committing.

V4 Boulder 3m
2 Gingivectomy

Long undercling traverse.

FA: Ben "JengA" Lane, 2014

V6 Boulder 7m
3 * Nephrectomy

Start matched on the undercling. Big moves and Big fun

V3 Boulder 3m
4 ** Photocoagulator

Start at the back of the cave.

V4 Boulder 4m
5 Prosthesis

Chipped and not that nice but will probably be the hardest problem here.

6 Oxycel

Same Start as Go Go Gadget but follows the left edge of the cave to finish on the black jugs.

V2 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 ** Go Go Gadget

Start in the rad underslot, big moves to a high finish

V2 Boulder 4m
8 ** The Nurse

Double side-pull start then up via crimps and slopes to the rail jug. A great problem and tricky until up figure out the beta.

V3 Boulder 3m
9 ** Doctor

Same start as Necrosis then hard move into The Nurse to finish at the jug rail.

V5 Boulder 5m
10 Necrosis

Start at double undercling then up via nice crimps to jug, direct start V1

V2 Boulder 4m
11 Botox

Start on jug right of the flake then undercling/side pull the the flake to finish on orange horn.

V1 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 Rocky-Davis

Start match on the undercling up via slopes and crimps to the camps ledge then big moves to high jug pocket.

V2 Boulder 4m
13 Can you campus.

Simple campus from left to right

V0 Boulder
14 Roof Pocket

Start on the X jug rail above the ferns, traverse the roof until the campus ledge then finsh up P13

V3 Boulder 5m
15 *** Hopes In Slopes

Sweet high sloper traverse, good but spaced holds the whole way. Start on a L finger jug and right crimp, up and work your way out left along the roof rib. Can you campus is off for your feet. Finish matched on the high pocket. Easier to campus most of the moves.

FFA: @benjenga, 13th Dec

V5 Boulder
16 ** Problem Solved

Awesome new 20 move problem with a dynamic crux at the start and solid rock nearly the whole way. Starts on the big pocket of Say Ahhhhhhh, a couple of easy start moves set you up for a big move out left from a bad off angle right before joining Hopes In Slopes..

Set by God

FFA: @benjenga, 13th Dec

V7 Boulder
17 * Hope

A fun campus problem, start with a small pocket and crimp, move right to finger jug, left hand to small crimp above then swing right to a good incut high edge, match.

V4 Boulder 2m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 ** Say aaaaaaaah

Start on the big jug up to another jug pocket with glue on it then big moves up and right via crimps. Keep trucking right past another jug pocket to finish as teflon.

V4 Boulder
19 ** Teflon

Crag classic. Start in the back of the cave, big moves on big holds. Finish on the high big sloper.

V2 Boulder
20 Mosquito clamps Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
21 Anticipatory Anxiety

Straight up the face of the highball boulder. Use of either arête is "out".

Boulder Project 8m
22 Anti-anxiety Arete

HIGH.. This problem is 6m+ Has top rope anchors.

23 Sandy Candy

Scary ground up high ball, left hand on the arete. Has top rope anchors.

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2012

V2 Boulder 5m
24 Excision

Got better holds then the right hand side. Has top rope anchors.

V1 Boulder 4m
25 The Hyperhidrosis Problem

Straight up the middle of the face to top-out mantle. USE OF EITHER ARETE IS "OUT"..

Thin and balancy with all the hardest moves in the top half.

FA: Paul Thomson, 2014

V3 Boulder 6m
26 Gastroplasty

Harder of the two sides. Has top rope anchors.

V1 Boulder 4m
27 Anaphalaxis and the Angry Ant Attack

The ants are gone...

Once renowned as a "speed ascent problem" (as the crucial hold contained a nest of angry ants that swarmed once the hold was used), it's now a conventional and safe boulder problem.

Stand start, up via the one and only hold to top-out.

FA: Paul Thomson, 2012

V1 Boulder 3m
28 * Black Trash Traverse

Long block traverse from right to left. Start in small pockets on the top edge and traverse to the far left edge of the block

FFA: Ben JengA, 2012

V1 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
29 Dave's double dyno

Dave did the fa in about 1996. Start with both hands on the rail then big move up to the sloping lip. Speculated at the time to be v9 but who knows??

FA: Dave Browning

V9 Boulder 4m

1.1.7. Yellowrock 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

Easy access and solid bolts over a range of climbs in a condensed area. Plenty of untapped potential.


Drive to the end of Yellowrock road. Park, cliffs start at the parking lot.

Access Issues:

Park at the end of Yellowrock road.


Look around.

1.1.8. Birdwood Gully 9 routes in Crag

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.562793, -33.697144


Park on Boland avenue and head into birdwood gully. Take a right at the main trail. About 300 meters you will find the cave. You cant miss it.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 B 1

Left most route

Start: Left most route

21 Sport 10m
2 B 2 22 Sport 10m
3 B 3

Grade 13 ??

Start: Left B3

13 Sport 10m
4 B 4 26 Sport 10m
5 B 6 24 Sport 10m
6 B 7 - aka The Gym Hold Direct 24 Sport 10m
7 B 8 - The Gym Hold 22 Sport 10m
8 B 9 - The Surfboard Route

Choice of two finishes

23 Sport 10m The Cave 1 route in Crag

The big cave.

1.1.9. Blue Gum Swamp 9 routes in Area

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.606169, -33.654409


Blue Gum Swamp runs along the river at the bottom of Shaws Ridge. The two trails connect and provide the local schools with their cross country trails. Multiple caves and areas exist on the wall between the two trails. Some areas are stand alone and easier to access from Blue Gum Swamp Trail. Others are in the main ridge line and are more easily accessed from Shaws Ridge Trail. As always with the lower mountains, beware the loose rock, and clean all routes thoroughly.


Goto Winmalee shopping center, continue to the end of White Cross road and park at Blue Gum Swamp and Shaws Ridge parking lot. Head down main trail and take left towards Blue Gum Swamp. Many sectors along right hand side of trail.


Shaws ridge trail is believed to have been created sometime in the 1880s. It is likely that the area has been visited by climbers and the like for some time, although there are no documented climbs. The area began to see development by the local Winmalee crews around 2010. Efforts by the Matt and Bryson Klein and the young Winmalee bouldering set in 2012/13 have seen some first ascents getting made. Cross Country 8 routes in Sector

The Cross Country boulder is located directly on the side of the Blue Gum Swamp fire trail and there is a slabby wall about 8m behind off to the right side of the Swamp Cave.


Obvious area directly on the side of the trail about six hundred meters past the gate on the Blue Gum Swamp trail.

Descent Notes:

Obvious area, super easy access.


Saw some cleaning by ZPAB crew in 2010. No serious efforts until Matt Klein and company re-discovered and put in some excellent lines in 2012/13. Swamp Cave 1 route in Sector

The steep overhang visible from the Blue Gum Swamp fire trail. Directly behind the Cross Country boulder.


Obvious area directly on the side of the trail about six hundred meters past the gate on the Blue Gum Swamp trail.

1.1.10. Zed Dimension 67 routes in Crag

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.632670, -33.682069

Unique Features And Strengths:

High density boulder crag, with some potential for routes. Located in the lower mountains, making it easy access for anyone short on time.


This crag is located off Shakespear Drive in Winmalee. It is spread over several sectors which are between 200 and 500 meters apart. There are around 40 boulder problems established and around another 300 to be 'csent.

Access Issues:

From hawkesbury road turn into high school drive, left on endeavour drive, right on newton way, and a left or right onto Shakespear drive which is a loop. At the opposite end of the loop is a dirt road, park and walk.


Much of the rock is marginal, so the need to clean is essential. Please try to maintain 'scent routes, but clean or "modify" new routes as required. The Sculture Garden has several chipped routes; with more to go in where boulders are otherwise unclimbable. Several boulders have horrible landings, so be wary. Training Yards 17 routes in Sector

Long/Lat: 150.617715, -33.680356


This sector consists of 6 main boulders with about 10 minor boulders. The pick of the sector and maybe the whole area is Saturns Forge.


From the dirt track entrance on Shakespeare drive, head about 20 meters in and then follow the cairns down a right hand track. Cairns lead the way to the different boulders. Trespassers Domain 0 routes in Sector

Sector is within the boundaries of the water treatment plant. Some decent boulders; lots of cleaning required. Sculpture Garden 32 routes in Sector

Long/Lat: 150.622343, -33.680198


A high density sector with a good mix of steep, slab, and vertical. Also contains a number of chipped problems on otherwise unclimbable sections...hence the name.


From the dirt entry on Shakespeare drive, follow the path to the power lines, cross under the power lines and turn left to parallel the fence of the water treatment plant, around 300 meters in is a large slab of rock, the boulders are along the down hill side of this slab. Sky Block 5 routes in Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.624489, -33.681034


An epic roof with a tender top out! Five or so lines through the roof lead onto a ten foot top out through sloping scoops.


Pass through the sculpture garden staying on top of the rock. Past Candy Cane Arete there are cairns pointing the way. A little bush bash will bring you to some low roofs and leads down to a 8 foot tall roof with impressive scoops on the top.


First discovered 2010, cleaned 2012, no 'scends yet. El Dorado 1 route in Crag

Long/Lat: 150.625094, -33.683969


Lost Crag of GOLD! Across the gully from the Sculpture Garden, this area has HUGE potential! There are five cave sectors found so far! With a thirty meter long wave wall with great landings...very nice! Supranatural 5 routes in Sector

Long/Lat: 150.628837, -33.681492


A whole nother level. A ton of unscent problems. The Quantum Caves is possibly the best of the zone.


Turn through hole in gate before the powerlines. Follow the dirt road past two turnoffs. Pass through the fence at the other side and continue along for another 150 meters. 50 meters after dog leg, take a right at the cairn. A large rock slab will let you know you have arrived. School Dayz 0 routes in Sector

Area behind the Winmalee high school. Opening Moves 3 routes in Crag
Summary: Verticality 4 routes in Crag

1.1.11. BYU 1 route in Crag

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.605248, -33.666041


Boulders off edge of Ridge View Close. El Crisol del Enfuerzo 1 route in Sector

Cave with fire pit on left side, iron stone pockets and a solid fold leading to a stellar top out.

1.1.12. Steep City 34 routes in Unknown

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.610948, -33.680400


Area along gully beginning in Tall Timbers reserve and joining up with the Zed. Heaps of steep styling boulders. The 6 caves in Tall Timbers reserve are a defining feature of the area, with a monster 60 meter cave centring the sector. Some great stand alone boulders litter the sides of the gullies, providing heaps of variety. Some seriously classy problems make this one of the best boulder crags in the Sydney area! Big call, come test it! Heather Gully 30 routes in Area

Long/Lat: 150.611989, -33.680306


Gully south of Heather. Great boulders litter the gully slopes all the way around the sides of the Heather road ridge. Plenty of variety, caves, slab,face, what more could you want? Oh yeah, a three minute approach on good paths!


Enter in from Heather road and descend into gully. Can also be approached from tall timbers 4wd entry, although it involves some serious scrambling up from the creek.


Clear tracks from back yards show plenty of foot traffic, first boulder problem developed by Zorba 2013.

Video Toppo of some classics here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6rGwXSgj2V0 Lee Road Caves 4 routes in Area

Long/Lat: 150.610864, -33.681324


A series of Giant caves lines the backs of houses along Lee road. Around 5 caves, from 5 to 50 meters long, provide absurd amounts of bullet rock hidden within loose looking choss.


Across the creek from Middle Earth. You cant miss it. Entry via Lee road at the Tall Timbers entrance is possible.


Some clear signs of drunken parties prior to 2013, they left a lot of loose rock and no chalk. Development by Z started in 2013.

1.1.13. Backyard Basic 10 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.565971, -33.693168


New lower mountains cliff under development. Is a good beginners crag on good rock.

This cliff is similar to the nearby birdwood gully walls and being in the lower mountains it contains some great rock and some sandy. All of the new routes have been bolted with beginners in mind and top ropes could easily be set up.

All the grades may be due to change with repeats??

The downside of it being a suburban crag is there is a lot of rubbish and a surprising amount of bongs at the base of the look out. We hope to be able to clean this up in the near future.


Park at the Lomatia Park Springwood car park and walk west until you can follow a track behind a few houses. At the corner of the last house continue on the track north until you pass the end of Park ave then follow the track down and out to the lookout.

Descent Notes:

Once at the lookout walk a further 40m north until you find a descent down some big rock steps. Walk back under the cliff and the first route will be on the left.


Two routes of unknown history existed before Sharpie and Mobe the dog found this cliff at Christmas.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Festively Plump

First route of the crag. Stem up the tree to start until you reach the good jug. Nice wall climbing with a reachy top.

Set by Ben JengA, 2014

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2014

14 Sport 7m, 6
2 Black Max

Great crimpy wall on good edges until the top flake that isn't as good as you hope.

Set by Ben JengA., 2014

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2014

17 Sport 7m, 6
3 MoBe.

Super top moves that require a bit of thinking and crimping.

Set by Sharpie, 2014

FFA: Sharpie, 2014

18 Sport 6m, 5
4 Russian caravan

Some of the best rock on the wall with some sneaky pockets. Be careful with the top white jugs.

Set by Sharpie, 2014

FFA: Sharpie, 2014

15 Sport 7m, 5
5 Lost Keys

Good interesting climbing in and out of caves. The top is reminiscent of the descent gully walls at Nowra.

Set by Sharpie, 2014

FFA: Sharpie, 2014

15 Sport 7
6 Grabing Sand

The left glue in carrot route to the chain. Details unknown? The hardest route at the crag, sequenced moves see you past the lower crux if you move your feet.

20 Sport 9m, 5
7 Sand wedge.

The right glue in carrot route, details unknown? Funk up the steep start to an easy finish. Home to one of the best holds on the wall.

17 Sport 9m, 5
8 ** Sounds of Summer

Steep man classic. Steep reach jug start then super easy to the top.

Set by Ben JengA, 2014

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2014

19 Sport Project
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 Caves Route

Soon to be bolted.

Sport Project
10 Caves direct

Soon to be bolted.

Sport Project

1.1.14. Booker Jam wall 13 routes in Crag

Top Rope, Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.642339, -33.655838

Unique Features And Strengths:

Cool spot, nice flat top rope wall with plenty of potential and a great outlook


Fun wall, great location. Pretty fresh with plenty of hollow plates and choss, be careful and bring a brush!

Access Issues:

National Park


Park at end of Booker rd in Hawkesbury heights. Walk out fire trail, ignore first track branching right and continue 30mtrs and take the next track also branching right. Follow to end. You will arrive at top of walls, there is a scramble chute at either end to get down, otherwise abseil from a tree. Total walk time less than 10 minutes.


Glued carrot bolts in place for top roping at multiple points along wall. They appear to be in good condition and haven't had any issues with them except for the unusual placement of some. They have been there for a minimum of 3 years. Cannot find any information regarding who installed them originally nor route names grades etc, so, i have begun naming routes in lieu of first ascender/installer claiming ownership.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 unknown

Far left on the wall starting on the face then moving left then up. 2 carrot bolts. 1st is a bit high.

18 Sport 11m, 2
2 point break

On the rounded nose left of 'Pump up the jam'. Get past the cave by propping up off boulder.

17 Top rope 8m
3 pump up the jam

Up the corner behind the boulder

12 Top rope 7m
4 * crimp gymp

Right of 'pump up the jam'. Pumpy moves on hard crimpers. Good fun.

FA: Guru, 2014

19 Top rope 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 * Toe Jam

Up crack right side of bulge slab. Layback start. Reachy balanced top moves. Lots of fun with some cool holds and footwork.

FA: Guru, 2014

18 Top rope 8m
6 ** book it in

Cool climbing hard moves pinching and crimping

FA: Guru, 2014

18 Top rope 8m
7 off the width

Up the off width or use the face.

14 Top rope 8m
8 cosbys sweater

Right of 'off the width' More of Bookers good stuff

FA: Iain Morrison, 2014

16 Top rope 8m
9 * Horn dog

Up crack left of 'random climb'. Easy start with a forest of holds to the 2 horns. Thins out slightly with some balancy moves, keep pumping through

FFA: Guru

FA: 2014

18 Sport 8m, 2
10 * Random climb

one meter left of old pumpy, fun features and some cool moves. 2 carrot bolts.

17 Top rope 8m
11 * old pumpy

Starting in the little cut out in wall climb using tiny cave. Some good pumpy moves to the top. Stick the gaston up the shallow vertical crack or bail right for a lower grade.

18 Top rope 8m
12 fitzswingin

Furthest right route slippery moss sloper.

13 Top rope
13 boulderdash

Long Traverse entire wall right to left starting right of fitzswingin

V1 Boulder

1.2. North Lower Blue Mountains 41 routes in Area

Boulder, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.620899, -33.604149


The Bells Line of Road to Springwood Road. And around the lower Grose River area.

1.2.1. Crago Observatory 29 routes in Crag

Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.619072, -33.562633

Unique Features And Strengths:

the Random Observatory


cool spot need some work, lots to climb

Access Issues:

all the cliff line in close to the fire trail. right on the edge of BM national Park and reserve


drive to the end of Lieutenant Bowen Drive, the wale 200mt to the Observatory all the bouldering is there, or keep on walking down 400mt and there is a 10mt cliff with some bolts. North Side 22 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.621779, -33.562153


North of the Observatory South side 2 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.621658, -33.562885


south of the Observatory west side 5 routes in Crag
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.617302, -33.562712


Keep on walking down the train till you see a cliff on your right

1.2.2. Sleepyhollow Boulder 12 routes in Area

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.630251, -33.592150

Unique Features And Strengths:

Some amazing boulder some big some small


good potential on developing


park at the end of lieutenant Bowen drive walk down the eastern fire trail for 100mt the trail will start to veer left and there will be a single track on the right at the beginning of the single track there is faint trail on the right take that track and that will lead you to the main area

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 short fast loud

stright up the overhanging wall DUB at top. you will need to lead the climb on the right to get to the bolts

20 Top rope 7m
2 Honeymoon Arete

up the Arete 1 hard ish move after the 2nd bolt. DUB at top also used for SFL

16 Sport 8m, 2
3 the archetype direct

start at the right side of the arete 3 bolts to the DUBB

18 Sport 9m, 3
4 * the archetype

start 2mt right of arête stick clip 1st bolt hard start after the 2nt bolt veer left back to the direct route good climb

20 Sport 10m, 5
5 Sleepy archetype

a funny link up climb 1st 3 bolt of the TA then Travers right along horazontal break to the 3rd bolt on sleepyholow the finish the climb.

21 Sport 11m, 5
6 * Sleepyhollow

fun line. stick clip 1st bolt DRBB

20 Sport 10m 4
7 Holloween

after the 2nd bolt on SH veer right linking up to the next climb

21 Sport
8 project Sport
9 project 2 Sport cliff line 2 routes in Cliff
All Sport

the cliff line up the hill from the bolders Small Hollow Boulder 0 routes in Boulder

The boulder south of Sleepyholow Boulder Finger Eater Boulder 1 route in Boulder
All Boulder

The boulder down the hill from sleepyhollow

1.3. Kings Tableland 18 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 150.396260, -33.818494

1.3.1. Kedumba Pass 13 routes in Crag


Long/Lat: 150.378507, -33.781292

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Softly Softly 11 Trad 35m
2 Tip Toe 11 Trad 35m
3 Workshop Wall 8 Trad 35m
4 Pinnochio 13 Trad 40m
5 Toymaker 11 Trad 40m
6 Straight Up 11 Trad 40m
7 Immediately Left 8 Trad 40m
8 Bollard 8 Trad 40m
9 Gully and Wall 7 Trad 50m
10 * Outa Balance 17 Trad 70m
11 Bib 14 Trad 70m
12 Bub 15 Trad 70m
13 Pippin 13 Trad 50m

1.3.2. The Emu 5 routes in Crag


Long/Lat: 150.387548, -33.803275


Park on Kings Tableland near Double Hill, walk along the bushwalkers trail to Lions Head.

The top of the "The Emu" route is recognisable by the canyon-like chasm that cuts into the cliff-line and meets the track. Leave back packs here. [Winston Smith on Chockstone has co-ordinates of: - 33 48.227', 150 23.240']

To access the base of the routes:

Continue south along the track for 200m down hill to an obvious gully on the right (cliff edge ~3m from track with old slings visible around small tree), this is the abseil gully option. [Winston Smith on Chockstone has co-ordinates of: - 33 48.349', 150 23.191']

But, probably quicker to continue south on the track another 200m to the bushwalk pass, cairn and log book. Descend the pass until below the cliff-line, then contour 200m north under the cliffs to the abseil gully, then continue 200m to the start of the The Emu.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Emu

Approach: Park on Kings Tableland near Double Hill, walk along the bushwalkers trail to Lions Head.

The top of the climb is recognisable by the canyon-like chasm that cuts into the cliff-line and meets the track. Leave back packs here. [Winston Smith on Chockstone has co-ordinates of: - 33 48.227', 150 23.240']

Continue south along the track for 200m down hill to an obvious gully on the right (cliff edge ~3m from track with old slings visible around small tree), this is the abseil gully option. [Winston Smith on Chockstone has co-ordinates of: - 33 48.349', 150 23.191']

But, probably quicker to continue south on the track another 200m to the bushwalk pass, cairn and log book. Descend the pass until below the cliff-line, then contour 200m north under the cliffs to the abseil gully, then continue 200m to the start of the climb.

The climb starts at the left end of a huge white/yellow choss wall which is ~150m high and ~50m wide. The start is a short right facing corner, marked with a cairn.

  1. 20m (14) Up the slab on the left wall with cams in the corner. Up over blocks at the top and bushwalk to a tree belay.

  2. 25m (11) Bushwalk into the chasm behind the massive block, ledges and breaks 2-3m from the back wall, chimney up and out, then bushwalk into sandy cave and tree belay at far side (right). But, better to scramble out of cave left without pro and belay above the chasm at the start of P3, horizontal breaks take BD#1, 2 & 3.

  3. 30m (14) Up trending left. Avoid first bulge on left, up some ledges, awkward move past a grass tree, 5m up slab, then 5m up corner to weak tree on right, better to use cams in break.scoop further right.

  4. 30m (14, some say 16) Run-out slab. Poor BD#0.2 in right wall 3m up, move up to narrow ledge, good wire or small cam in corner, then ~4m run-out slab above, good hand hold top-centre. Up a bushy ledge to 5m wall with fused flake, climb first half direct then move right for easier exit to sandy cave. Bushwalk left to tree belay.

  5. 35m (11) Big bushwalk traverse. Start up blocks for 5m, then walk left ~10m, step over a hole with big exposure and up the left arête with nice moves. Walk ~5m left across loose sand with big exposure to tree belay.

  6. 15m (12) Short orange wall, then easy corner with good gear, fight through the tree branch roof above! Bushwalk right to various tree belay options.

  7. 25m (14) Hard under-cut bouldery start for the grade, up steep jagged blocks with various cam options, up and over lip through backpack grabbing tree, a 5m corner leads to a couple of ledges. Tree belay and cam options on both ledges.

  8. 20m (15, some say 17) Up left leaning ferny groove/chimney for 7m. You can wedge yourself in nicely, various cam/wire options, exit to left. Scramble up ledges heading to the left of the next chimney, belay level with the base with cams in horizontal breaks, long slings to synchronise over various levels, BD #0.3, 0.75 & 1.

  9. 20m (12) Up chimney and left wall. Exit up loose dirt gully, bushwalk right to tree belay.

  10. 35m (5) Most will unrope here, bushwalk up & right for ~20m aiming for the chasm, climb this to your backpacks.

FA: John Ewbank, Greg Mortimer, Lucas Trihey

16 Trad 270m 10
2 Enu Crack 22 Trad 250m
3 The Dreaming 14 Trad 220m
4 The King and I 12 Trad 220m
5 Gondwana 16 Trad 240m

1.4. Leura 177 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.370908, -33.664701

1.4.1. Lockleys Pylon 12 routes in Crag

All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Simple 11 Unknown 50m
2 Pure 8 Unknown 40m
3 Black Bowler Derby 11 Unknown 130m
4 Ilych 16 Unknown 110m
5 Black Stovepipe Trousers 9 Unknown 110m
6 Sophisticated Synthetics 14 Unknown 110m
7 The Pixie

FA: Warrick William, Paul Mara

13 Unknown 110m
8 Peachy Keen 13 Unknown 85m
9 Freezing Point

FA: Bruce Cameron, Hayden Brotchie

12 Unknown 80m
10 Piecemeal 12 Unknown 110m
11 Berrington corner 15 Unknown 50m
12 The Hallelulia climb 13 Unknown 120m

1.4.2. Sublime Point 134 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.340504, -33.732623

Description:© (Stu)

Sublime Point is a large 200m high west facing two tiered cliff perched on the end of a finger of rock south of 'Leura'. Most people visit to climb the popular easy multi-pitch 'Sweet Dreams' (14), but there is plenty of other interesting routes in the area, from old school vegetated girdles to bolted single pitch sport routes. Many of the older routes haven't had a great deal of recent traffic so take care - and bring the pruning shears. It's easy to polish off a few single pitch routes on the walk-in to doing 'Sweet Dreams' or any of the other multi-pitch routes. There are even some fifty year old aid routes begging for a free ascent.

If adventure climbing isn't your thing then consider Bentrovarto Wall, a very impressive 90m high slightly overhung orange face that contains several sustained routes up to three pitches long. The recent rush of new sport routes on Bentrovarto Wall, and further right in the 'Thumbs Up' area and beyond, have made the right side of the 'Sublime Point' 'Main Area' a good quality walk-in, walk-out crag. Unless you're a latte sipping softy, the walk out is not that bad when you're only carrying a sport rack!

Useful Info: All 'Sublime Point' crags are in a National Park - DOGS ARE NOT ALLOWED. Please do not further endanger climbing access and damage climbers' relationships with the land managers - don't bring your dog to these crags.

If it's hot and you're chasing shade, the 'Main Area' has shade until about noon, the 'Cool Wall' has shade pretty much all day, and last you can head to the 'East Face' which is shady from about noon. If it's cold and you want to be in the sun, hit the 'East Face' early and the 'Main Area' in the afternoon.

Approach:© (Stu)

This area is 13km closer to Sydney than the more popular Bluies crags around Blackheath! From the town of 'Leura' follow signs towards Fairmont Resort until you hit 'Sublime Point' Rd. Follow this south for a few kilometers to end of road and carpark. 'Access' for each sub-area is described on the respective pages (links below).

History:© (Stu)

Sublime Point was opened up to climbing by the Rhum Du Climbing Group in 1958 with climbs created at irregular intervals for a couple of years. The cliff then lay dormant, forgotten and wasted for several years, until a burst of energy by the S.R.C. between '62 & '65. (J.E. Rockclimbs in the Blue Mountains, '67.) East Face 4 routes in Crag
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.340192, -33.736187

Description:© (nmonteith)

Large overhung orange wall facing Kings Tableland with easy 5 minute access. All routes require rapping into hanging belays and then climbing out. The super exposed position high above the jungle hundreds of metres below make for a very memorable afternoon out! Shade after midday and nice cool breezes.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From 'Sublime Point' car-park walk along fence of house 142 'Sublime Point' Road (left side of carpark) until it ends after 50m at wooden wall. Walk along wall for 15m (keep quiet so as not to piss of the people in the house above) then head straight downhill on faint track. This track enters the bush at a couple of gnarled banksai trees. Follow track steeply downhill for 80m on faint ridge past a few large tree stumps with a small right turn until it ends at top of small cliffline. Turn right and head down mossy ferny steep gully then go left under small cliffline. 20m along under this cliff turn right and go straight downhill aiming for the edge of the cliff just below. There are two rocky points - the Northern (left one facing out) is the one to find. This has an obvious rap chain on the top and a yellow fixed rope tied around a tree. The other ledge 15m further south (above Subliminal) only has two rings at the top. It's only 5 minutes from the car to the top of the cliff! Lookout 2 routes in Cliff
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.338471, -33.737457


This small crag is directly below the Sublime Point tourist lookout. Access it by crawling underneath the metal bridge. The rock quality here is mostly very poor - but a couple of routes are ok. West Face (Main Area) 128 routes in Crag
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.337337, -33.735658

Unique Features And Strengths:

The west face contains the majority of popular climbing at Sublime Point, and is accessed by a short but exciting steep descent down a series of rock ledges, fixed ropes and tree roots.

Access Issues:

There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.


From the Sublime Point carpark walk down tourist track for 100m or so (past a small hut) until you reach the metal bridge. 2m before the bridge drop down and left to enter gully and surf down the pine needles to base of small cliff (Lookout Micro Area). Walk right under this cliff (past yellow sign) for 20m then turn left down track past gnarled banksia tree. Down ridge a bit, scramble down fixed rope corner on right and keep following exposed track to magic hole (squirm down it!). Keep going steeply down past some fixed ropes - at the bottom of these 2nd set of ropes on the left is Shady Lady wall. For the 'Main Area' continue down steep path and rock steps until you reach the major cliffline. Turn right here and walk along the cliff base for a few 20metres to find the sport route Choc Chip Chai and the first sector. A good track follows the base of this cliff past the other sectors. To get to 'Sweet Dreams', walk north along the base of this cliff following a well trodden track for several hundred metres, passing several walls. You will reach the "cable of death" traverse - yes, you need to go across here and 'Sweet Dreams' is just a few more metres along.

To exit any of the multi-pitch routes walk up hill to small cliffline, get past it somehow then up again until you hit small tourist path. Turn right then follow the track back to carpark (5 minutes).

Where To Stay:

You cannot camp anywhere near the climbing, however if you have a campervan you could just park in the carpark. Be warned - after midnight the carpark gets a lot of yobbos doing drivebys!


Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.


Originally a climbing area of the Rhum Du, a splinter group of the Sydney Rockies in the late 50's. Later re-discovered and further developed by the S.R.C. proper in the early 60's. Development of the cliff led to the production of the first Australian climbing guide, 'The Rock-Climbs of N.S.W.' by Bryden Allen and the SRC.

1.4.3. Mt Hay 9 routes in Crag

Unknown, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.407122, -33.618932

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Margarine Ridge

A long, adventurous route up a prominent line. Some good exposure and excellent long pitches. Rock is of mixed quality, but bad sections can be avoided. Several pitches are broken up by 50m hikes up steep, loose, vegetated sections which can be quite taxing when added to the length of the climb. Rope drag can be a problem on some of the long pitches, and can be mitigated with twin ropes of at least 60m in length (but be careful of rope tangling during the hikes). Be sure to bring at least a full rack of Cams up to #5 (possibly doubles up to #3), wires, plenty of slings, and optionally a set of hexes (good placements on last pitch). Helmets are a must against loose rock/vegetation, and headlamps are recommended. Starting from the 8th pitch there are a few carrot bolts (slightly off-route) so bring a few bolt plates in case you want to use them.

  1. 13m (13) Marked start of the climb. A tricky and rather poorly protected traverse left leads to a large cave (good gear to protect second), walk left past a loose block to a belay out on the arete.

  2. 35m (9) A long and pleasant pitch up the nice tortoise shell wall above, getting easier with height. Wire and cam belay.

  3. 42m (11) Step up on top of the large flat block, place some gear at the back of the scoops, then step right to steep and juggy moves. These lead up for about 8m to a bushy ledge. Walk left along this, slightly down around the arete and left for approximately 30 metres across an easy wall to a tree below a crack through the bulge. Tree belay. Rope drag on this pitch is a serious concern.

  4. 55m (9) A really enjoyable and surprisingly long pitch. Head up the crack for a couple of metres then step out onto the right face. A long and juggy wall awaits, with a variety of gear. Tree belay on the halfway ledge. Follow the track up or 40m to the start of the upper cliffline.

  5. 58m (9) Start on the juggy face just to the right of the short right facing offwidth corner crack in the block. Another long, juggy and really enjoyable slab, with some good exposure up higher and well spaced but adequate protection. Go up for about 15m, left and up onto next slab, right at the top to avoid steep bit. Rope drag this pitch is a serious issue. Can be mitigated with double ropes. Walk up to next cliff

  6. 55m (13) An excellent pitch and one of the hardest on the route. Up the lovely corner above, then up two lovely little 5m finger size layback cracks above that. Tree belay.

  7. 35m (13) Climb the initially vegetated, but nice corner up to the big roof, then traverse left to the arete. Straight up this, using the face on either side when it blanks out (take care of the hollow flakes on the right of the arete). A #5 Camalot is highly recommended for this section. Continue up to small tree and mid size cam belay. Walk 25m right to the obvious chossy chimney and a poor belay off a small tree.

  8. 30m (8) Up the chossy and unpleasant chimney for 8m or so (some pro in crack in left wall), then traverse out right on the easy ledge to big exposure being careful to avoid the flakes and weakened rock. Up the short wall to the next ledge, then crawl back left to the belay cave. Ridiculous rope drag is inevitable on this pitch, but can be mitigated with double ropes. Very poor belay off a single small thread in choss at the back of the cave. The second should exercise extreme care on this pitch, since a fall could blow the belay. There is good gear 1m higher on the left wall of the crack to beef up the belay. NOTE: There is a bomber thread inside the cave that goes from the bottom right (facing in) up the back to the outside of the cliff, a 120cm, thin (Dyneema) sling is required to reach and fit through the little hole. a poking stick helps too.

  9. 30m (6) Step left onto the easy wall, place a #4.5 or #5 Camalot just above the roof then easily up a dirty groove to the final ledge. A single carrot bolt sits at the bottom of the off-width crack for belay. Walk 20m right to the end of the ledge and the base of the final pitch, twin rings for belay. NOTE: Pitches 8 and 9 can be linked by continuing straight up the wide corner above the chimney, instead of traversing right. This is a much better alternative, though a little runout.

  10. 30m (9) Step up and right onto a small ledge below a left leading groove. Delicate stemming up the groove leads to a banksia tree and a final small ledge. Good gear in lovely crack on right then step up and over final 8 foot wall to the top. Twin rings for belay. Walk right 30m until you meet Canyon exit track, and follow this back to the carpark.

FA: Hayden Brotchie, John Gray, Paul Davies, 1996

13 R Trad 330m 10
2 Seismic Daks Splitter 16 Unknown 310m
3 Middle Slab 16 Unknown 110m
4 Black Slab 21 Unknown 89m
5 Monks Wall

Mostly short, generally easy pitches but with a great 5th pitch (the eponymous pitch). This climb has not received many repeats, so be particularly careful if you plan to attempt the route.

The climb starts about 750m right (facing out) from the base of the Mt Hay canyon exit climb (head right soon after doing a short abseil off a big ring bolt). The start is on a small belay ledge about 5m up, about 20m past a small creek fed from a wide, dripping waterfall high up on the cliff.

  1. 15m (16) A nice technical start to the climb. Orange corner left of belay. Hard moves up the corner, then easier up the flake/crack and a gully to a tree belay to the left.

  2. 35m (walk) Walk and scramble up and left, then up a short corner to the base of the second short corner.

  3. 10m (10) Easy wall right of crack to long, narrow ledge below nice black slab

  4. 18m (15) A nice slab (with plenty of variants), with a really atmospheric belay ledge. Easily up unprotected black slab to small ledge (piton, though I think Hayden went back for it). Crank up short, steep wall on thin chickenheads to belay ledge under roof (BB and cams). Pitches 2 and 3 could be linked quite easily into a single pitch.

  5. 55m (15) The money pitch. Traverse right from the belay (be careful of the thin plates below), over the bulge on jugs then up the long slab above with sparse gear. Tree belay. After the FA, a BB was added in the middle of this pitch, allowing it to be led on a 50m rope.

  6. 30m (walk) Walk up halfway ledge to a pleasant belay under a small roof.

  7. 15m (10) Step right onto block then up to ledge. Up pleasant slab to ledge (tree belay).

  8. 25m (walk) Walk up and left to small ledge below hollow corner.

  9. 5m (13) Up hollow corner into cave (small cam with runner out onto face), then back onto the overhanging face and up to ledge.

  10. 20m (walk) Walk up and left to chossy cave. From here on, the climb follows the easiest line to the top of the cliff, thereby avoiding a lot of the great rock on offer to the right. It is expected that a better, direct finish could be done beginning here, and heading out to the right on the nice looking slabs.

  11. 25m (8) Step left and up around arete to ledge, Straight up buttress (or walk up at left hand end). Scramble up to ledge below chossy roof.

  12. 25m (10) Walk left along ledge below chossy roof, then easily up blocks to base of pleasant black slab. Left and up the black slab to belay ledge below steep orange wall.

  13. 15m (12) Up choss to layback crack on right. Pleasant layback to top (tree belay 15m back).

To walk out, head up and right, passing an unusual "inverted V" cave. Keep heading right until the open heath is reached, at which point continue straight up the ridge top, up a short, steep white slab and over the top to the walking track. Walking time to the carpark: 20 minutes.

FA: Hayden Brotchie, Peter Monks (alt), 1998

16 Mixed 290m 13, 2
6 For whom the billy boils 21 Unknown 75m
7 Mount Hay canyon exit 8 Sport 200m
8 The slot 17 Unknown 100m
9 Ghastly gully 14 Unknown 80m

1.4.4. The Fortress 16 routes in Crag

Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.347729, -33.643496

Unique Features And Strengths:

Brillinat remote crag with a great walk in (1 hour). Gets a lot of wind and sun. The classics are Tom Thumb and The Wind Cries Mary.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Fortress Crack

Expeditionary undertaking. Classic Ewbank no doubt. Obvious crack in yellow and black wall capped by large roofs on SW facing cliff below Fortress Ridge. Visible from Evans Lookout.

Leave car on Mount Hay Rd and walk along 4wd track on to Fortress Ridge. At end of track head WSW along prominent subsidiary ridge. Upon reaching cliffs, head S around small upper cliffline and down bushy ramp. 3 long abseils on double ropes to reach a big ledge. Scramble L along ledge and down bushy gully to short abseil at bottom.

Start: Walk NW 300m to base of route.

  1. 18m (16) Black crack to small bushy ledge.

  2. 24m (19) Up over 2 ledges, then corner-crack to grassy ledge.

  3. 20m (18) Belay under small overhang on R. Corner to ledge. (good bivy site?)

  4. 30m (21) Crux. Cracks, then major crackling to foot ledge on L, below small roof.(#1.5 cam, wires).

  5. 15m (19) Crack to shale ledge on right. (Cams 3m above ledge.)

  6. 15m (21) Equal crux. Overhanging crack to large slot. Bolt belay.

  7. 25m (18) Crawl 3m R, then left up wall to corner and roof. Now left to aerate and crack above to ledge.(Poor pro).

  8. 20m (12) Crack, and corner to tree.

  9. 50m (12) Up to black slabs, and up.

Set by Ewbank

FFA: Trihey,Ewbank

FA: Lucas Trihey,John Ewbank

21 Unknown 200m
2 * Butt Crack

While it's probably best noted as a good escape route from the bottom of the cliff, it's actually not a bad little number in its own right. Some of the climbing might feel a few grades harder than grade 11, but by and large it's possible to find a line that conforms to the grade.

A standard rack of wires and cams (to #3 camalot size) is sufficient, although a #5 camalot is also recommended. Helmets are an absolute must and 60m double ropes are highly recommended as well. Definitely not for the inexperienced.

  1. 20m (4) Up the easy ledges then halfway up the right tending gully. Belay off a small tree.

  2. 35m (11) Move left along the obvious traverse line then up as you will to the large, steeply sloping ledge. The initial moves up are harder than they look and it's much easier to traverse back onto the wall from further left.

  3. 80m (4) Walk up the ledge, trending left initially, then solo up a short 8m wall (might be an idea to belay up this). At the top of this move up and slightly right to the small stand of saplings below the obvious squeeze chimney corner crack (#5 camalot for this belay).

  4. 45m (11) Grunt up the squeeze chimney for a move or two then fondly bid it farewell and venture out onto the right wall. Engaging climbing (suss dinnerplates) to the top of a lovely little exposed pinnacle perched in the middle of outer space. Step back to the main wall and up to a spectacular belay ledge.

  5. 55m (11) Move right and up the obvious chimney (which is often wet at the back). At the top, head left and up a steep dirty gully for about 15m, passing the two dodgy looking banksia trees. Belay off a small gum further up, with the trusty #5 camalot in a block just to the left.

To get off, walk directly away from the cliff for about 250m and you'll hit the Fortress Ridge walking track. Turn right and follow the track back to the Mt Hay Road, taking the left fork at each junction. It's about 45 minutes of flat walking back to the road.

FA: Hayden Brotchie

10 Trad 240m 5
3 Internal Hatred 15 Unknown 160m
4 Trouser Snake

Approach: abseil the route, a rope protector is comforting - sharp ironstone at the top.

Some bolts have been recently added (2015?). The bolts aren't always easy to spot, camouflaged by lichen.

  1. 6 bolts up to 2 abseil rings at deep undercut, then 3 bolts above to the oiginal TBB.

  2. 2 bolts above, then various horizontal breaks for cams (BD 3, 1, 4, 0.5), DBB (abseil rings) on ledge at top. Plus, a sensible bolt just above to protect the easy scramble to the grass & scrub.

FA: Angie Bishop, Hayden Brotchie, 2005

14 Mixed 85m 2, 11
5 Pseudechis Wall

FA: Hayden Brotchie, Angie Bishop, 2005

12 Trad 120m
6 Grand Central Route

FA: B Allen, I Logan

12 Unknown 210m
7 The Great Rum Beer Chimney

The filthy vegetated gully/chimney system to the climber's right of Tom Thumb.

8 Trad 200m
8 Trogan Horse 14 Unknown 200m
9 Old Spiteful

FA: T Batty, B Allen

15 Unknown 300m
10 Self Abuse 15 Unknown 150m
11 ** The Wind Cries Mary

Mixed carrots and trad route up the grand wall right of Tom Thumb. Refer to Sydney Rockies site for most up to date route info. Be aware that this is a new route and there are some loose holds still. Steep face climbing, good rock and reasonable pro.

Start: rap as for 'Tom Thumb'

  1. 18m (8) Up 'Tom Thumb' P1, onto block at 10m and up right to belay. Then walk R into gully and up 10m

  2. 45m (18) Up block and layback then R up wall past bolts and crack, then R to steep wall and bolts and up slab past cams and hard mantel, left top 3BB in break.

  3. 35m (19) Up and slightly R past bolts and cams, then left into corner (good thin break at top) up steep wall (BRs) and runout up to slab and 3BB below cave.

  4. 30m (18) Up to cave and bush runner. Rightwards 12.30 o'clock past bolts then leftwards up corner (average pro) and easy arête to DBB on big ledge.

  5. 15m (18) Walk R and up 2 waves of rock past 5 BRs. Belay on a high bolt and a Ubolt. There is a 50 year old carrot on the ledge

  6. 30m (19) Up steep wall past 2 BRs and sling, the up left on easy wall, walk 6 m to left end of rock band and 2 BB.

Walk left to hit track.

FA: mikl law, Brian Simonds, 2011

19 to 20 Mixed 180m 6, 25
12 Landing Gear Down 16 Trad 140m 5
13 * Tom Thumb
  1. 18m (8) Up a few metres to bolt (used more to show direction than for protection). Up to vertical crack for pro and up bulbous wall (another bolt on right) to DBB at top of buttress. Walk up and right 8 metres to start of next pitch. DBB on wall.

  2. 40m (12) Left of belay grunt onto wall. Natural pro in crack or horizontal breaks up higher. Clip bolt on left. Then move diagonally right to small friend (#0) in horizontal crack and further rightwards on easy stuff to bolt (clip with sling to reduce drag). Up left clipping two bolts, steep tricky move (easiest if you move left). Easy 10m ramble with two bolts to DBB. Best to give your second a tight rope when they start the pitch.

  3. 16m (9) Bolt on right shows the way, then up crack on left to belay. (Bolt and #½ friend.)

  4. 45m (8) From right of the belay move up a few metres, then traverse left past bolt runner to arête/ridge. Up ridge 30m past 4 bolts. Walk across rightwards to bolt on little buttress. Over this and walk 10m+ (no bolt protection) and scramble through small bushes up easy crack into cave to DBB.

  5. 21m (12) From belay start to the right. Up wall trending left past 4 bolts. Climb onto large blocks at top. They seem OK. And traverse right passing bolt that protects the second to DBB.

  6. 26m (8) Clip bolt on right of belay. Stand on rock thing and up. Follow ridge with a few bolts to top. DBB.

FA: Hayden Brotchie and Jenny Bradford

13 Trad 150m 6
14 Eeyore's Alternate

FA: Hayden Brotchie and Angie Bishop

15 Unknown 55m
15 ** Black Snake Moan 22 Unknown 200m 5
16 * Voyteks Corner 24 Unknown 150m 5

1.4.5. Leura Fitness Center 6 routes in Crag

All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Kitty V5 Boulder
2 J_Lo's insane pumpfest link up V5 Boulder
3 DOD's weak ass variant of J_Lo's insane pumpfest link up V3 Boulder
4 spEEd V4 Boulder
5 The Crux of SuperCal V4 Boulder
6 DYNO DUUUUUUDE!!!!! V3 Boulder

1.4.6. DELETE ME! 0 routes in Crag

1.5. Katoomba Area 649 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.294779, -33.722661

Unique Features And Strengths:

Home to the jewel of the Blue Mountains, Diamond Falls.

1.5.1. The Three Sisters 19 routes in Crag

Unknown, Aid and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.314819, -33.736191 Honeymoon Point 4 routes in Cliff
Unknown, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.314933, -33.735202 Eastern Block 5 routes in Cliff
Unknown and Sport East Face 4 routes in Cliff
Unknown and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.315319, -33.735992 Southern Routes 5 routes in Cliff
Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.314478, -33.736410 Halfway Ledge 1 route in Cliff
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.314224, -33.734849

1.5.2. Echo Point 39 routes in Crag

Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.305977, -33.731131 Echo Point Walls 28 routes in Cliff
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.308681, -33.731123 Malaita Wall 11 routes in Cliff
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.299765, -33.732393

1.5.3. Dogface 26 routes in Crag

Aid, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.295655, -33.732123

Description:© (Macciza)

It used to be called DogFace -then it fell down in the '30s. Quality choss in a class of it's own. Don't believe everything you hear, unless they have been there - remember, this is the stuff that didn't fall down in the last landslide, so it's gotta be pretty good .. . doesn't it ? ?.

Approach:© (Macciza)

Below Cyclorama Point, Cliff Drive, Sth Kat. Lower Wall 3 routes in Cliff
All Aid Left Wall 4 routes in Cliff
Trad and Unknown Main Wall 8 routes in Cliff
Aid, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.295620, -33.732203

Description:© (Macciza)

The Landlide Face

Routes listed right to left.

Start are mostly marked. Gorgo Wall 4 routes in Cliff
All Aid Right Wall 4 routes in Cliff
Trad and Aid The Citadel 3 routes in Cliff
Aid and Trad
Description:© (Macciza)

First landslide reached when walking in to The Landslide.

Approach:© (Macciza)

Head down Furbers Steps, near Scenic Railway then right along Landslide track. The Citadel is a few hundred metres along, an ominous gash in the cliff . .

Descent Notes:© (Macciza)

Walk up hill to Cliff Drive.

History:© (Macciza)


1.5.4. Narrow Neck 204 routes in Crag

Trad, Aid and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.284414, -33.731330

Description:© (mjw)

Probably the oldest climbing area in the Bluey's. A little bit forgotten about these days but still very worthwhile. Take a lot of care with the fixed protection. Hopefully at some point in the future there will be funds available to 'renew' this area.

Approach:© (mjw)

On the first 'Narrow Neck'. Easily accesable via public transport and a short walk. Find Cliff Drive, turn off this into Glenraphael Drive (as for 'Diamond Falls' and Redledge Pass, take this for approximately 1km to a small parking area. The crag is accessed down a gated fire trail on the right side of the road. The southern end of the crag can be accessed by walking a little further to where the fence comes into contact with the road. The most popular access point is via the fire trail and pumping station down through Dixon's Ladders. Note: these ladders were partially removed by the waterboard, they have been reinstated at various times by climbers but may not actually reach the ground when you get there! A short hand over hand or abseil may be required.

The climbs are split into the area South of the ladders and the area North of the ladders. Pumping Station Track 5 routes in Cliff
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.287524, -33.729738 Main Bivouac Ledge 14 routes in Cliff
Aid and Trad Right Side 69 routes in Cliff
Trad, Aid and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.288498, -33.727277

Description:© (mjw)

The area to the right of the ladder descent. The routes listed LEFT to RIGHT starting at the far end of the crag. Left Side 115 routes in Cliff
Trad, Aid and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.282489, -33.733079 Castle Head/Ruined Castle Ridge 1 route in Cliff
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.287862, -33.756649

1.5.5. Diamond Falls 88 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.277643, -33.739577

Description:© (Ashy)

Introduction -

'Diamond Falls' is located on the western side of 'Narrow Neck' Plateau near Katoomba. A mixture of climbing styles are catered for though the areas popularity is definitely due to the hard sports climbing available. At present 3 sectors have been developed:

Sector 1 - 'Left Side' 'Access' Ledge: There are a number of relatively easy multi-pitch climbs requiring mixed gear on the walls above the walking track. These climbs are rarely repeated, route descriptions are vague and any fixed gear should be regarded as questionable. There are also a few moderately graded sports routes around 'Uncooth Youth' and 'Diamond Jack' and given the development of late these areas are becoming a worth while destination in there own right, no longer just a quick warm up on the way to 'Mr Wall'.

Sector 2 - Mr Wall:
This wall is one of the jewels in the crown of Blue Mountains sports climbing and contains possibly the highest concentration of hard sports routes in 'Australia'. There is a fantastic selection of steep climbs ranging in grade from 26 through to 35 on immaculate rock.
Sector 3 - Frog Buttress:
This is a small buttress 200m past 'Mr Wall' that contains a couple of sports climbs.

Conditions -

The sun hits the crag around 2PM.

The crag also catches the wind and can get very cold so take some warm clothes.

Access Issues:© (Ashy)

This crag is in a National Park. Dogs are not allowed (not even at the carpark).

Approach:© (Ashy)

Access -

From Katoomba head down Katoomba St towards 'Echo Point' and turn right into Cliff Dr and follow the 'Scenic Drive 5' signs. Just past the Landslide 'Lookout', turn left onto the dirt road Glenraphael Dr which heads out along the 'Narrow Neck' Plateau. Follow this for a couple of Kms until the road is blocked by a locked gate. If your driving from Blackheath there is an alternate approach via 'Narrow Neck' Rd. (see map below).

There are two possible approaches to the crags. The first simply follows a steep track through the scrub to the start of the access ledge. All crags can be approached this way. The second involves following a track to the top of 'Mr Wall' and then rapping in.

Approach 1:
From the gate walk back along the road for 50m to a sandy track on the western side. Initially there are a few tracks that crisscross one another but after about a minute you should be on an obvious track heading out and down onto a peninsula. The track then continues steeply down the gully and after 10-15 minutes reaches the base of the upper cliff line. Turn left and follow the access ledge track for another 5-10 minutes to reach 'Mr Wall'. 'Frog Buttress' is another 5-10 minutes walk further on past 'Mr Wall'.
Approach 2:
From the gate follow a vague track heading west and down through the scrub. After a bit of scrambling you should arrive at the rap point above 'Mr Wall'. Unity Area 39 routes in Cliff
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.278128, -33.738131 Mr Wall 45 routes in Cliff
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.277764, -33.740464

Description:© (Ashy)
Environmental Issue: Please do not leave quickdraws on routes.
The walk in to Mr Wall takes 12 minutes if you're psyched, or 15-20 if you care about your knees.

In the past, for convenience, it has been a common practise for climbers to leave quick draws on routes for extended periods of time. Unfortunately 'Diamond Falls' is often buffeted by very strong winds and as a result this practice has led to significant rock scarring on several popular routes. Climbers are therefore urged to no longer continue this practise. Frog Buttress 4 routes in Cliff
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.275514, -33.740749

Description:© (Ashy)

Frog Buttress is located on the opposite side of the waterfall amphitheatre from 'Mr Wall'. From 'Mr Wall' it is a 5 to 10 minute walk through thick and often wet bush. Even if you don't climb here it is worth the walk just for the scenery and to get a different view and perspective of the 'Diamond Falls' crags.

1.5.6. Red Ledge Pass 13 routes in Crag

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.267350, -33.746489


Situated on the Narrow Neck Plateau. Redledge Pass is an historic aboriginal pass from the valley. Shale miners and farmers have been using it since the late 1800’s. It is in the Blue Mountains National Park

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Parakis

The first route you come to after crossing the creek and traverseing the first ledge. Just left of an arete on grey rock

FFA: N. Harrowell, 2003

18 Sport 20m
2 * Yage

On a bulging reddish wall with strange mud markings approximately 100m past Parakis. Reached by a small 'dyna-bolt' protected traverse. Clip and unclip as you go. Belayer can stay on the ground. The big chimney to the left was soloed -many times.

FFA: M. Warren, 2003

21 Sport 20m
3 * Andys 24

FFA: A. Richardson, 2003

24 Sport 12m
4 * Katalyst

Right of 2 routes up fixed rope at the end of a very narrow traverse ledge about another 100m on. this traverse was equipped with a fixed rope but it may not be here at present

FFA: P. Sage, 2003

25 Sport 20m
5 Its Bakin

Execellent boulder route with the crux close to the ground up katalyst, to 2 bolt then, head rightwards on u bolts

FFA: A. Richardson, 2007

27 Sport 15m
6 *** Phill open project

A small batman to beat the choss, then climb leftwards on reasonable rock to a small but obvious cave. from here the route begins and is fiesty!!! crimp and snatch your way up the awesome baked red rock to a no hands rest and another boulder problem, do this and its in the bag!! 20 meters right of its bakin at a scoop in the rock

FA: P. Sage

33 Sport 30m
7 Shooting Blanks

Great climbing, no stopper crux. Start as for Phils project

FFA: L. Cossey

29 Sport 20m
8 Run Come Save Me

An execellent route that offers consistantly difficult climbing inbetween large jugs!! mandatory climbing at grade 26 inbetween the top 4 bolts, cunliminating in an all out dyno at the 2nd to last move, cements the route's classical status guarentees an exciting crux. 20 meters right of phils project, at the base of the wall's obvious flake system. batman start

FFA: V. Day, Z Vertrees, 2006

31 Sport 25m, 9
9 Brand New Second Hand

As for heatseeker to the first crux above the obvious break, here break left and follow the slopers, pinches, crimps and jugs, oh and pockets!! up the awesome baked red wall, that only red ledge offers.

FFA: V. Day, 2006

31 Sport 27m
10 *** HeatSeeker

Rad rad route, up some of the best rock around, quality bouldering with jugs to seperate the difficulties. a sustained finish. A great toilet bowl feature, batman or climb the mud to the first bolt.

FFA: G. Miller, 2006

32 Sport 23m
11 *** Zac's Project

Hard hard hard, all the way, many boulder problems with hard clips, classic really!! right of heat seeker,

FA: Z. Vertrees

35 Sport 25m
12 *** Blood Shot

Batman to the first bolt, then boulder past 3 crux sections, involving burly powerful arm work!! enjoy! this is some of the finest steep rock in the blue mountains. start at small tree on the steep section before the cliff swings around the corner.

FFA: V. Day, 2006

30 Sport 20m
13 ** Fuego

Execellent steep climbing, with an awesomely body powerful crux, and all out dyno to finish it off! this route was bolted after work in summer and has some great memories attached to it! 5 meters right of bloodshot , around the corner. batman to the first bolt and go!! Back jump to clean

FFA: E. Jerg, 2006

30 Sport 20m

1.5.7. Farside 44 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.262995, -33.751350


A very good sunny day alternative as it stays in the shade to late in the day. The left side of the main wall starts getting sun about 2.30 in summer, the steeper right side gets another hour or more of shade Not a crag that you want to spend any time at if its windy or colder than about 15C. Much of this info is thanks to Steve Grkovic and Megan Turnbull at www.BMTopos.com, paper guide can be printed from site.


25 mins on the fire trail (or less than 10 mins on a mountain bike - well worth bringing), then a 15 min walking track approach. There is a 15m downclimb aided by fixed ropes and rungs, most people don't rope up for this but take care.


A massive thanks to all those who help develop this area. Critter Crag 8 routes in Cliff

Long/Lat: 150.262845, -33.750215


A few routes on this wall including the rope stretching Seething Beetles at 45m.


From the base of the access rope approach, head right (facing out) - i.e. away from the main wall. Main Wall 32 routes in Cliff

Long/Lat: 150.262817, -33.751762


The left end of the wall has less steep more crimpy affairs, with the right end being the steep pumper zone.


From the base of the access rope, head left (facing out). Outskirts 4 routes in Cliff

Long/Lat: 150.263568, -33.752497


A very impressive wall but sadly only a few starts.


A 2 minute walk past main wall.

1.5.8. Rhum Dhu 33 routes in Crag

Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.287532, -33.717750

Access Issues:

CURRENTLY NO TOP ACCESS AS TRACK IN PROGRESS. WILL UPDATE This area is currently recovering from the 2014 bush fires. Natural bush regeneration is in progress with council fencing in place to stop public access. On approach to the first rap in point ensure you stick to the Boars Head access trail so as not to interfere with the regrowth. Regeneration of this area will take many years!


Park at Cahills Lookout on Cliff Drive, Katoomba. Walk 100m south following the road and locate the trail head leading to the top of the first abseil station (chain anchors) opposite Boar’s Head.

Abseil (#1, chain anchors) 20m into gully. Walk 30m down into the gully and out onto right wall (South) above huge chockstone. Traverse solo or on belay from the gully around the ledge (4 ring bolts in place) and through the chimney (3 ring bolts in place) to the 3 anchor abseil station.

Abseil (#2, chain anchors) 20m down slot to boulders and next abseil station.

Green Salad Gully Abseil

Abseil (#3, double ring bolts) 25m to gully floor (1 ring bolt at base). Set up retrievable safety line using single ring bolt or scramble 15m to end of slot and next abseil station.

Link abseils 2 & 3 using double ropes.

Abseil (#4, chain anchors) 25m to ground and follow trail around to the right to locate climbs.

If you encounter a commercial group going down the abseils in the slot, you can abseil down the west face (Shandy side) of the slot if you have double ropes using abseil #3 anchors.

It’s also possible to walk down Devil’s Hole (locate the pole painted with “Devils Hole” in red, opposite 239 Cliff Drive) and along the base of the cliff for 20 minutes, locate the big slot of Green Salad Gully, go left another 140m then scramble up 40m to the base of Shandy or right to the other routes. This requires a bit more luck and walking.

ESCAPE: If you need to escape the crag rap off the fixed double rap rings. Abseil pass the overhang and big ledge to reach the base of the cliff. Follow the cliff line to the right (facing the cliff) for approx 30 minutes. Pass the man made cave shelter, continue along the base of the cliff and head up the gully marked with the sign "Devils Hole" to find Cliff Drive.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Burgundy Buttress 15 Unknown 83m
2 Dry Sherry Pinnacle 11 Unknown 40m
3 Terrier 1 16 Unknown 100m
4 Barassa Pearl 13 Unknown 51m
5 Lager & Lime 13 Unknown 170m
6 Night Cap 13 Unknown 50m
7 IOU 16 Unknown 35m
8 Rhum Cognac 10 Unknown 60m
9 Gin and Tonic 6 Unknown 40m
10 Baby Sham 13 Unknown 60m
11 Cocktail Buttress 10 Unknown 63m
12 Whisky Gully 16 Unknown 49m
13 Peacock Gully 14 Unknown 83m
14 Triffid 15 M1 Aid 120m
15 * Shandy

Walk past DRP and continue past double rap rings on arete. 20m further is an old rap station made of old green tape tied off a gum tree. 5m further is a gum tree growing beneath some think brush. Sandstone block marked 'S' with cairn on top here. Scramble up through scrub for approx 10m then head right to find the line of fixed hangers.

Pitch 1: 8 - 33m.

Fixed hangers & Carrots.

Up and right to cave on arete. Easy face climbing on easy angled slab, straight up with some beautiful views. Stay on route or risk hitting some chossy rock.

Triple Carrot belay on ledge (admire old rusty belay in cave on your right.)

Pitch 2: 8 - 26m Up, left and back to corner. It's possible to scramble off left here.

Pitch 3: 6 - 14m

A fixed hanger, then medium cams/nuts

Up right crack. Belay of Rap anchors in Chimney.

To get off here, rap to previous belay & scramble left or...


Pitch 4: 14 - 26m Chimney up abseil route, past anchor and up. Walk off as for Dirty Rotten Pig. Easy face climbing up the line of ring bolts just left (facing the cliff) of the first boars head abseil.

FA: K Western, 1958

8 Mixed 99m 4, 6
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 ** Dirty Rotten Pig

Multi-pitch sport climb. ~100m. Grades 19,19,17,14. All protection is ring or U bolts, no carrots.

Access path is 60m SOUTH of Cahill's Lookout on Cliff Drive, Katoomba. (access path: http://goo.gl/maps/1TsvL)

Take at least 14 draws. Be prepared for hanging belay, take lots of locking ‘biners. Twin or double ropes recommended for long abseils and sharp ironstone.

Orientation: the crag runs more-or-less NORTH-SOUTH. The access path is the EAST side of the cliff, the Megalong Valley below is on the WEST side of the cliff.

Follow access path until you reach 2 chains. This is where you will start and finish.

Rappel ~20m down from chains to the floor of the gully below. (On your way down, scan on your left (if facing rock) for U-bolts which will be protection for the climb out.) Walk SOUTH, following the rock face on the WEST. Do not take the much steeper, narrow northern path. (On the walk down, try to spot the single U-bolt placed high up on the western face, about half way down the gully hill. You will use it for rappelling out.) Follow the track around to the right until you have almost done a complete circle. You will pass a U-bolt on the right at about head-height. You will find a very windy chimney/rock split. You need to pass through the chimney to access 3 rappel chains hidden from view. You can solo this part or setup belay from previous U-bolt. 2 U-bolts in chimney, 1 outside chimney. Rappel down from 3 chains. You should head WEST when you lower. Try to spot the 2 rappel chains below you and aim for them. You may rappel ~15m to lower 2 rappel chains, or skip those chains and continue ~25m (~40m total) to a single ring-bolt chest-height on SOUTH face of wall. Rappel ~10m to 2 rappel chains on edge of cliff. (this step can be skipped, but be wary of running out 50m rope) Rappel ~40m from 2 chains to solid ground. Following the cliff on your right, head WEST then NORTH along path until you reach U-bolts. This is the start of the ascent. If you reach a nose, or tree with slings around it you have gone too far. BE CAREFUL, YOU WILL BE ON A CLIFF FACE. FALL BELOW.

  1. 19:~40m. Start is difficult and belay is next to ledge so make sure belayer is on safety. Gets run-out. Finish at 3 U-bolts. Setup hanging belay.

  2. 19:~25m. Watch for funnel web spiders; they are deadly. Gets run-out. Finish at 3 U-bolts. Setup hanging belay.

  3. 17:~35m. Really easy but be careful of sharp ironstone, it can sever rope. Twin or double rope recommended. Gets run-out. Finish at multiple U-bolts. Setup top belay.

Walk EAST on the top of the cliff and walk to the left (north) of the first pinnacle, over the sketchy looking ledge. Follow path to the right (south) of the second pinnacle, which is the "Boars Head" rock feature. Follow the cliff around the southern side of Boars Head and you will find the gully from the first rappel. A U-bolt is mounted hip-height to allow rappel. Rappel or solo down into the gully.

  1. 14, 25m Climb back to 2 rappel chains at the start. Climb is located immediately to the NORTH of the rappel at start. Climb is runout and first bolt can be hard to find, you may need to solo about 2m to find first bolt. Setup top belay.

Note: this guide does not distinguish between ring bolts and U-bolts. If U-bolt is listed, ring bolt might be present.

Guide by Paul Hauner and Joel Griggs. February 2014.

FA: Ness,Mikl,Jody Powell

19 Sport 95m 4
17 Tooth & Nail (Boars Head) 17 Unknown 70m
18 Green Salad Gully 7 Unknown
19 Whisky Chaser 12 Unknown
20 West End 10 Unknown 43m
21 Humbaba 15 Unknown 30m
22 ** Desperately Seeking Stephen 18 Unknown 45m
23 Temperance Arete 8 Unknown 130m
24 Intemperance Arete 8 Unknown 83m
25 Bloody Mary LHS 12 M4 Aid 33m
26 Bloody Mary RHS 15 M6 Aid 47m
27 Tia Maria / FreerMaccia

Start 5m right of Bloody Mary RHS (marked) below triangular prowed ledge at 4m. Fixed rope may be present, bounce test before use; if not then lasso or stick-sling the very tip of prow and ascend rope then mantle onto ledge and good gear. Climbing starts here.

  1. Head up and right following slanting invert thin crack to lip of roof and rest. Upper corner is very thin crack and a few decent holds. Stemming and a few face holds help. Exit left at top. Tree belay.

Standard rack plus extra small cams.

Top corner is a bit dirty and mossy but should clean up a bit.


FA: Ewbank, 1967

15 M5 Trad Project 41m
28 Detour

Set by @macciza

Trad Project
29 Diversion Ahead

Set by @macciza

Unknown Project
30 ** Dead End

Set by Mac and Zac

Unknown Project 25m, 6
31 *** Cul De Sac / Cull The Sac / Call to Zac

Start at tree right of corner, using pocket then straight up to roof and traverse left under roof and up shallow corner to ledge. Technical corner work then follow line to crux moves at very top . . . 'Cull The Sac' variant. Climb past roof and up to ledge at half-height ~23. Sling-horn to lower, then flick it off to retrieve.

FA: Ewbank 18 M4

FFA: Zac Vertrees, Macciza, 2012

31 Trad 30m
32 ** Catastrophe Corner

Start at corner capped by triangular roof left of main waterfall. diagonally right to bolt and up to ledge, then corner system up to right side of roof. Follow corner/crack up to end then left on sloping shelf past bolt (old belay) and up groove to ledge past old threads and traverse off left.

FA: Ewbank,18 M2, 1969

FFA: Macciza, Zac Vertrees, 2006

22 Mixed 30m, 2
33 * Catastrophic Crack

Obvious crack line angling into Catastrophe Corner, then taking right hand exit at top.

After trying the direct start at small roof, try increasing further left, but no further then the tree, until you can get established on wall. Either head up slightly to gear or traverse into line and some gear. Follow crack, a bit of gear to stonking Medium cams then slight runout up to ramp and gear. Join CC at the top but continue up and right to exit.

Wires and cams. Tree belay over the top.

Set by @macciza

FA: @macciza, 2015

FA: @macciza, 2015

22 Trad 30m

1.5.9. Nellies Glen 2 routes in Crag

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.286260, -33.710103

Approach:© (willmonks)

Location description in the old SRC guide is pretty woeful. The google map coords entered for this crag (click on "view map" below) are a guess and could be a km or more off! Anyone with better info, please contribute!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 High Tide 23 Unknown 50m
2 On Any Sunday Day 22 Unknown 100m

1.5.10. The Pit 23 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.277809, -33.706834

Unique Features And Strengths:

Quality and diverse routes on an eclectic mix of features. Quick access and stacked in the mid to high grade range.


A beautifully positioned crag, belied by an inauspicious name. A tight amphitheater of rock and forest, many of the routes in The Pit start from a spacious ledge nestled in the canopy of trees. The Pit is comprised of two distinct sectors, each with it's individual style and sun exposure.

Each route at The Pit has it's own personality, mostly on holds and sequences atypical of Blue Mountains climbing. Many routes have pockets and monos, largely absent from most Blueys routes.

Foot access is short, about 10 - 15 minutes from the car to the top of the crag, followed by a short 20m rappel. Exiting the crag is by Via Ferrata, protected by the rappel access rope.

Sector 'Pit Fighter' is the first sector encountered from the base of the rappel. This sector is protected from rain, though will drip from the top of the routes after many days of consistent rain. In summer is will get around 2 hours of sun between 2.30 - 4.30pm and no sun at all in winter.

Across the amphitheater, 'The Sunny Side' will be in the sun until around 12 in summer and 10.30 in winter.

Access Issues:

Elphinstone Plateau is mostly private property, whereby landowners tolerate access for a variety of purposes. The tracks and paths are frequented by many users other than climbers so please keep our impact to a minimum. Avoid obvious track markers and cairns within sight of the main trails.

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.


Park as for 'The Egg' and 'Elphinstone' at the end of Pulpit Hill Rd (PHR) in Katoomba.

Access PHR by turning from Great Western Highway (GWH) onto Explorers Rd directly outside of Katoomba heading towards Medlow Bath. Explorers Rd is a small loop road with two access points to GWH, one being at the 'Explorers Tree'. Which direction you access it from will dictate which way you will turn on to PHR.

Once on Explorers Rd, turn on to PHR and follow this to the end. Park here and walk through the stile at the gate. Follow the main, obvious track as for The Egg/Elphinstone for 500m until at a derelict, green shed structure on your left. The path winds into the forest directly before the shed on the left.

After a few initial twists and turns, the track will become more obvious with some cairns leading the way. Once the forest opens out on the ridge, the track will spill down to the right past a few rock steps and the crag will become visible. Follow the track down to a great overlook and down again to the rap point (2 rings). Rappel from here leaving the rope fixed for the climb out. As the Via Ferrata and rappel are steep, bolts have been placed to keep the rappel line close to the rock. It is advisable to clip a quickdraw to the rappel rope using least the bottom bolt. Perhaps consider bringing gloves to climb back out.

Rappel to an obvious ledge system with more Via Ferrata rungs, do not rappel all the way to the valley floor. A short traverse on a good ledge with more rungs will lead you to the right hand side of the ledge and the first routes. To exit, climb the Via Ferrata protected by the rappel rope using a suitable device.

To access 'The Sunny Side', simply traverse under the whole 'Pit Fighter' sector and follow the ropes down the rock step. Follow the path across the valley, and up to the other side. Takes all of 2 minutes to walk to the other side. Sector 'Pit Fighter' 14 routes in Sector
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.278055, -33.706877


Harder, high quality routes, all with different personalities. Easiest being 27 unless you choose to try the 26 variant of Point Insertion. Most people warm up on the hangboard or the typically bouldery starts


Sector 'Pit Fighter' is the first sector encountered from the base of the rappel. This sector is protected from rain, though will drip from the top of the routes after many days of consistent rain. In summer is will get around 2 hours of sun between 2.30 - 4.30pm and no sun at all in winter. Sector 'Sunny Side' 9 routes in Sector
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.277591, -33.707229


A mix of incredibly steep climbing and some more vertical walls to the left. A reasonable warmup area and gets a fair amount of sun.

'The Sunny Side' will be in the sun until around 12 in summer and 10.30 in winter.


To access 'The Sunny Side', simply traverse under the whole 'Pit Fighter' sector and follow the ropes down the rock step. Follow the path across the valley, and up to the other side. Takes all of 2 minutes to walk to the other side.

Once below the 'Sunny Side' cliff, either traverse all the way under it until below the orange wall of 'Dichotomy' or use the hand-over rope up the short slab to the ledge between 'Magnitude' and 'The Arkenstone'.

1.5.11. Elphinstone 54 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271566, -33.710951

Unique Features And Strengths:

High grades. High quality.


This crag will prove to be the citadel of hard climbing in the Mountains. Pitches are generally around 30-35m, uncharacteristically sustained and pumpy, on bullet proof rock.

The main wall, facing broadly south-east, receives sun in the summer till mid morning, and not at all during the winter. Dumbo Love sector faces south-west and catches an hour or so of winter sun in the mid to late afternoon, and up to three hours on summer afternoons. Though in the depth of winter Elphingstone can be untenably cold for skinny sports climbers, it has generally proven to be climbable all year round, even in summer with shaded climbing to be found throughout the day.

Many of the routes have lower offs considerably longer than the route itself as the ground falls away below the starting points. A 70m rope is paramount rather than prudent.


From Blackheath turn right at the Explorers Rd before the 'Explorers Tree'. This is a loop road with two entry points and restrictions on what lanes you can enter from and exit to. Coming from Katoomba you will turn at the Exporer Tree itself, albeit more of a large stump! Turn into Pulpit Hill rd and park at the end. Walk through the gate for about 10min. At a point where you can see into the valley to the left and across to Narrow Neck peninsula , walk up the next hill. You will find a cairn again a small pine tree on the left. Walk down this steepening track for 5min until it terminates at the cliff edge. There is an obvious rap in chain on a large boulder. You will need a 40m rope to fix and rap in with. Use the rope capture fixtures to stop your rope rubbing. Climb out using the via ferrata (not glued in) and an appropriate device (like a minitraxion). Do not solo the via ferrata!


There are many CLOSED PROJECTS in both sectors. As a matter of respect, stay off them unless you have permission from the person who bolted it or the project becomes listed as open. Main wall 29 routes in Sector
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271089, -33.711436


Many routes are 35m+ and will make your forearms feel like they have been bludgeoned by blood. Sun till 11am in the summer, and none in the winter. Wind proof gear is a must in the winter.


After rapping in, walk down the track and turn right. The wall looms over you after about 50m. Mind the cliff edge, there are spots where you wouldn't want to trip!

Descent Notes:

Mind your rope length as routes often lower off beyond the cliff edge, or at the very least significantly lower than where the route starts. You will need a 70m ROPE MINIMUM! Gay Paris Wall 5 routes in Sector
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271554, -33.710526


From the bottom of the rap station head down the path and turn (stage) left. After about 50m there is a track leading up to the (stage) left side of the cliff. Routes start a few meters off the ground after climbing up rungs through seeping rock. A stick clip will also help you. Don't let the bottom of these routes deter you from trying them. They are set to be mega classics!! Take care when walking around the base of this cliff. Try your best to be as low impact as possible on the vegetation and watch your footing. There are some potholes in the veg that could bring you unstuck quickly! Dumbo Love Sector 20 routes in Sector
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.272484, -33.710218


Full of great routes in the mid to late 20's. With the odd exception, these routes are long and involved.


At the base of the rap, head down and take a left through the jungle. After a couple of minutes traverse above a large boulder and cross the creek. Traverse the far side of the creek and around the right side of the large boulder slightly downhill.

Descent Notes:

Use a 70m rope.

1.5.12. Pulpit Hill 19 routes in Crag

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.268199, -33.712618

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Scorpio 16 Unknown 49m
2 Aquarius 14 Unknown 28m
3 Capricorn 15 Unknown 33m
4 Taurus 12 Unknown 40m
5 Sagittarius 15 Unknown 43m
6 Aries 16 Unknown 57m
7 Zodiac Crack 13 Unknown 45m
8 Leo 9 Unknown 47m
9 Virgo 15 Unknown 41m
10 Libra 14 Unknown 43m
11 Easy Gully 10 Unknown 33m
12 Taken In 11 Unknown 40m
13 The Elysian Field 12 Unknown 40m
14 The Oracle 14 Unknown 37m
15 Sorcerers Apprentice 11 Unknown 53m
16 Forever Amber 11 Unknown 23m
17 Chimney Corner 8 Unknown 40m
18 The Country Boys 9 Unknown 40m
19 Pandora 11 Unknown 53m

1.5.13. The Egg 10 routes in Crag

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.266477, -33.708769

Description:© (mjw)

Like 'Diamond Falls' and 'Gateway' this crag attracts the wind, which makes it one of the most spooge-resistant crags in summer. In summer the sun hits the crag at about 2pm. Funky sport climbing. An excellent find.

Useful Info: No matter what the weather is like at the car take a jacket or jumper - and a hat! Its wilderness so please treat it with respect. No new routes, no cairns.

Approach:© (mjw)

The Egg is situated on the Elphinstone Plateau approximately 5mins from Katoomba and 15mins from Blackheath. If approaching from Blackheath turn right at the Explorers Rd – do not attempt to turn into Explorers Rd at the 'Marked Tree'. 20mins easy walk on firetrail then 7mins down a steep track. The track to the crag is not marked as such (see info and access). From the carpark, follow the main fire trail, and don't take any of the right turns. After about 12-15 minutes, you walk past a once-cleared area on the right, with a 'lean to' in it (which is now just bits of corrugated iron lying on the ground). This is where the Elphinstone track breaks off the firetrail to the left. Continue along the firetrail for 50m past this area to a fork, where the track straight ahead is less a firetrail and more a walking track (this leads to the Trig Station and Esgate's Ladders), and where a firebreak/firetrail heads right around the hillside. Follow the firebreak for approx 150m and look for a track on the left, usually marked by a cairn. The track is well trodden (but overgrows quickly, please bring secaturs) and heads straight downhill for 5 minutes, down some rock steps, then turn left and go 50m to the base of the crag.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Ike the Butcher


Start: 5m right of the sign.

FA: lloyd wishart, 2006

26 Sport 15m
2 ** Funky Monkey

The warm up...if you're a pumper. Jug along with glee.

FA: C.Coghill, 2003

24 Sport 14m
3 ** Glow

Doesnt get as much attention as 'Headshot' but just as good. Perhaps a little more thuggy?

A tricky sequence at the start leads to a good rest then mostly good grips for great sustained fun.

FA: M.Warren

26 Sport 18m
4 ** Headshot

Took 5 days to bolt with much head scratching, almost didn't happen. Thought it would be 21. Maybe it is?

FA: M.Warren

27 Sport 17m
5 *** Red Demon

The warm up if you aren't a pumper. The most popular route here. Good climbing!

FA: C.Coghill, 2004

24 Sport 14m
6 * Five Point Exploding Heart

Is solid for the grade now with the direct finish.

FA: L.Cossey

28 Sport 20m
7 ** The Deal with Space

Like a Cornetto...no boring parts!

A great climb if you like mountains pockets.

FA: D Smith

24 Sport 15m
8 *** The Floating Line (homage to an angel)

The climbing and the rock is awesome, a grade harder after every move! . Hard for 28 but who wants a soft tick?

Set by Chris Coghill

FA: T.Wolf, 2007

28 Sport 22m, 7
9 * Tornado

Same start as the last two climbs but keeps drifting right to anchors on the arête. Sent as horizontal hail arrived.

FA: C. Coghill, 2005

24 Sport 20m
10 Project

Stick clip ring on the lip and pass rope through the hooks in the roof. A hold broke several years ago, this climb should probably be removed..

FA: L. Cossey, 2000


1.5.14. Boganville 38 routes in Crag

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.262221, -33.764597

Description:© (nmonteith)

West facing sport climbing up steep orange rock. Similar in style to 'Bowens Creek'. Route names are from Simon Carter's guidebook and route descriptions are a mix of that guide and recent first hand ascents. Many of the grades in the Carter guide are wrong as they were guesstimates.

This crag is in National Park, please behave accordingly. In particular do not damage any vegetation, as there are some rare endangered plants which live near this crag and on the walk-in and NOWHERE ELSE. If climbers destroy the plants' peace, National Parks will probably do the same to climbers - don't stuff it for the rest of us!

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From 'Diamond Falls' carpark walk/ride along 'Narrow Neck' road for 50 minutes to obvious pine tree. Leave road there and follow foot-track downhill to cliff. Left Wall 16 routes in Cliff
Description:© (nmonteith)

Fantastic long steep routes with big holds. If you like to pump this place is the shnizzle. Right Wall 12 routes in Cliff
Description:© (nmonteith)

Steep and juggy with lots of bolts. Right side is chossy. Totally waterproof. Fever Face 10 routes in Cliff

The crag to the right of the descent- facing the cliff

1.5.15. Little Italy 37 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.328503, -33.678036

Unique Features And Strengths:

Host to some very hard steep mountains routes in a unique canyon right near a great swimming hole.


2 sectors at present developed. Mostly hard climbing thru some steep territory. Many projects and many more lines to bolt.


Located at Mini Ha Ha Falls, Katoomba. Follow the walking track past lookout, until the intersection for the falls. Head straight ahead here for the den, following track down to the creek and crossing creek up to the obvious cave and walls opposite. For sunny side, head to the right around the base of the cliff till you come to the routes, approx 5 mins from the track intersection.


(Copyrite Breezy, Climb,org) Developed by a cast of thousands during 2004/05 with development no where near complete. There are some very old bolted routes (Carrigan era) at the actual falls, please do not climb these routes as the bolts are crap and locals swim at the falls quite regularly and unwanted attention may be gained. Also no new routes in this area either, please. Have some respect for the locals and bushwalkers if you do decide to climb here or bolt. The Den 18 routes in Cliff
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.328433, -33.677529


Steep sport climbing on good rock. The 27 and 28 are among the best at the grade in the mountains. Great sporty bolting.


15- 30mins walk Sunnyside 19 routes in Cliff
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.328261, -33.678359


Varied sport climbing The Sunny Side Climbs listed Right to Left as you approach them.


Turn right at the bottom of the stairs following the cliff line. Opposite side of creek to the den

1.6. Medlow Bath 202 routes in Crag

Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.277210, -33.680774

Unique Features And Strengths:

Diverse crag with lots of high quality low grade climbing all the way to epic adventures.

Access Issues:

Be wary of where you park, ensuring not to block any driveways or leave any rubbish. The crags are located on land owned by The Hydro Majestic, so act appropriately.


Coming from Sydney take the first exit on the left after the Hydro Majestic hotel. Turn left down Belgravia St and park.

Follow the track sign avoiding private property. After 100m you will want to ignore the first right turn and continue down to the second, 40m later. (If you get to a concrete platform you have gone too far)

Follow the path down over some fallen trees, then down a bunch of switchbacks to the bottom of the wall. On the left is Schwing wall and on the right is the Block. The track continues around The Block and to the edge of the cliff where a dead tree rests on the edge. Follow the path down the cliff via cut stairs and ladders. At the bottom turn right for Valley Farms and left through the tunnel for The Colleseum

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Yurtle the Turtle

Carrots. Grade only a rumour. Looks good.

Start: Behind bushy tree on north-facing orange wall.

23 Unknown 20m
2 Carnivore Corner Unknown
3 High Drama Unknown

1.6.1. Three Brothers 13 routes in Cliff

Unknown, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.275349, -33.680758


The Three Brothers and Flying Fox crags are long-forgotten trad crags with routes detailed (vaguely) in the 1997 Sydney Rockies Guidebook. Now there is also some modern bolt protected sport and mixed routes. Funky features and good rock make for charismatic climbing, though the older lines are pretty dirty. Access is relatively quick and straightforward, and the shorter walls here have a friendly feel with great views and a variety of aspects. The newer Pole 28 area has mainly sport climbs and has grown along two sections of cliff above and below each other. ‘Lower’ Pole 28 is technically part of the old Flying Fox crag.


From the highway turn onto Bellevue Cres, 100m south of the service station at Medlow Bath. Pass Delmonte Ave then before the right hand bend turn left down a rough dirt road, park on Bellevue if your car has low clearance. Follow the dirt road downhill over numerous water-bars, a dry creek crossing filled with river rocks, and note powerlines crossing overhead with a green power-pole on left – you are aiming for the second pole (visible ahead) accessed by steep left-hand turn a little further on with parking under the powerlines. The access road is not great for cars with particularly low clearance, but an average 2WD should manage with careful driving and a few minor scrapes. You can always discreetly park on Bellevue and walk 10 min extra.

Left of the closest power-pole in this parking spot is the start of a very obvious and well manicured track. Walk 150m or less to a fork, then turn left and head downhill 30m or so to a slabby step-down with the Three Brothers pagodas in front of you. The track swings sharp right here another 30m, then just before a sharp left- hand bend take a discreet track with a cairn on the right. After 10 or 15 metres of flat ground a series of switchbacks descend down short ledges (look for cairns) into a broad gully. The track hairpins hard left at a tall white gum and down a tighter gully between two short walls, before opening onto the half-way terrace between the upper and lower cliff-lines. This is the base of the upper descent gully – 5 mins from car.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Brothers K

From the base of the upper descent gully, on the approach to The Three Brothers (lower cliff), turn right and walk 40m. Continue past closed project on a steep orange nose (red tag first bolt) to Brothers K, up the centre of a narrow shady wall with an undercut start and a ferny corner to the right.

Stick-clip first bolt for sweet boulder moves through undercut start on good face holds, then pleasant wall climbing on funky features to a thin finish over the bulge. Double U-bolt lower off.

FA: Tom Hepner, Hannah Hepner, Tom ‘T-bor’ Thomson., 2010

22 Sport 18m, 5
2 Kalifornication

Short, steep orange nose with U-bolts, 20m right (south) of Brothers K. Closed Project.

Unknown Project
3 Easy Oasy 6 Unknown 30m
4 Easy Oasy Arete 7 Unknown 40m
5 Green Gully Arete 9 Unknown 40m
6 The Great Escape 15 Unknown 37m
7 Gung Ho 15 Unknown 13m
8 Red Crack 12 Unknown 50m
9 * White Wall 13 Unknown 50m
10 Blue Chimney 12 Unknown 53m
11 * Alfonso Dominico Jones

Mixed route: 4 bolts, single set cams (0.3 – 2 Camalot), medium wire or two. Lower-off.

Walk 30m south from descent gully: past the initials ‘RC’ (Red Crack), around to a striking red wall and shady chimney. Starts one metre out from the corner, on the right-hand face at a thin crack, and a few metres left of the white ‘BC’ (Blue Chimney) initials.

Stem for several metres with smaller cams and a medium wire in a strange slot feature, trend right past 2 bolts and small cam, to ledge (no. 2 Camalot) then nice finish up wall and arête past 2 bolts to lower off.

FA: Tom Hepner, 2010

19 Mixed 22m, 4
12 The Seventh Labour 15 M2 Aid 40m
13 * Crankenfurten

From the base of the lower descent gully follow the cliff line along to the right (north) for about 100m past undercut black slabs and eventually a tall yellow wall capped by a roof. At the far end of this wall is the blocky orange buttress of Crankenfurten.

Sport Route: 10 bolts to lower-off. A funky and gymnastic route with a thoughtful crux. Starts at a flared groove in the yellow wall.

Up groove for several metres then onto left wall, up through thoughtful blocky bulges on nose (after clipping 6th bolt, unclip 5th for less rope drag) then aesthetic grey & orange face to lower-off.

FA: Tom Hepner, 2010

20 Sport 23m, 10

1.6.2. Flying Fox Area 30 routes in Cliff

Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.276059, -33.678788

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Underworld 14 Unknown 30m
2 Cerberus 16 M1 Aid 50m
3 Orpheus Arete Variant 17 Unknown 33m
4 Orpheus Arete 15 Unknown 57m
5 Embossed Carbuncle 14 Unknown 53m
6 Fibbertigibbet 15 Unknown 53m
7 Who's Lead? 10 Unknown 47m
8 Time Out 13 Unknown 50m
9 * Copernicus 17 Unknown 53m
10 Tycho Bahe

FA: J. Smoothy, P. Butcher

17 Unknown
11 Transvestite 14 Unknown 60m
12 Pshcho Arete 10 Unknown 33m
13 Megalomaniac 13 Unknown 53m
14 Hair 8 Unknown 50m
15 Skinhead 8 Unknown 37m
16 Riff-Raff 8 Unknown 33m
17 No Time Climb 11 Unknown 47m
18 As You Like It 12 Unknown 37m
19 As You Like It Direct Start 18 Unknown 10m
20 Nymphomaniac 13 Unknown 43m
21 The Homo 12 Unknown 40m
22 Sultry 12 Unknown 40m
23 Acquarius 8 Unknown 30m
24 Deceptor Arete 12 Unknown 27m
25 Blowfly 11 Unknown 27m
26 * Contemplation 15 Unknown 40m
27 Inexperience 7 Unknown 37m
28 Delilah 16 M2 Aid 40m
29 Easy Day 9 Unknown 40m
30 Escapism 11 Unknown 46m

1.6.3. The Sunbath 29 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.273915, -33.672555

Description:© (aca_admin)

Park at the west end of Belgravia St, 'Medlow Bath'. Follow a well trod track west down the hill for about 300m. When you reach a circular concrete "bath" (full of leaf litter and rubbish, not water), you've gone about 50m past the walk-down. Go back to the walk-down and follow it down the gully. Pitang Wall is immediately on your right as you reach the bottom of the gully, 'Schwing' Wall is immediately to your left. 'Atoms in Action' area is 60-80m around right (north) of Pitang Wall.


RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The Sandpit

Just around the corner from Manana. Climbs described right to left

1 Wok Hay

FA: P.Mort, G.Short

22 Sport 15m
2 * Poultry in Motion

FA: G.Short, P.Mort

19 Sport 15m
3 * Viper

FA: M.Ashmore, Jacqui

21 Sport 15m
4 * Loki

FA: G.Short, P.Mort

18 Trad 12m
5 Hootenanny

FA: G.Short, P.Mort

13 Trad 12m

Katoomba Brothers area

6 ** Mañana

Straight up the vertical face mostly on jugs with two hands free ledges in first half. Thin start then consistent on good holds to the crux, which is just above the last bolt. Finish under roof. Well protected but with a little run out at the top just to make it interesting! 8 BR's to a 2 RB belay.

Start: Start 40m left of KB at grey face with a black streak up high, topped by a small roof.

FA: Peter Chaly, Niall Doherty, 2003

14 Sport 22m, 8
7 Kaboomba Brothers

4 carrots up the slab (take brackets). The first move is tricky for those at the grade.

FA: B. Junge, 1994

4 Sport 10m, 4
8 Spook Eyes

Line of ring bolts up hanging slab. Apparently the crack 1m to the right is off route.

Start: 2m right (facing in) of 'Kaboomba Brothers'.

FA: Ed Rutherford, 2006

17 to 18 Sport 6m, 4
9 Spook Eyes (Direct)

Go up orange streak, face moves only, no use of crack or arete. Fairly contrived, but a nice sequence of moves.

FA: Ed Rutherford

19 Sport 8m
10 ** Radioactive Man

FA: J. Smoothy, 1995

20 Sport 12m
11 * Atoms in Action

Damaged crux bolt has now been replaced and old bolt removed. - P.T, 08/11/2014.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1995

25 Sport 12m

The Block/Pintang Crag

12 Pitang Pitang

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

15 Sport 12m, 6
13 Ole Biscuit Barrel

Up the small arete for 3 bolts, then follow the ramp diagonally R to DRB lower-off with shackles.

Start: The leftmost route on the wall.

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

13 Sport 15m, 5
14 Cardinal Fang

Straight up the face, crossing OBB and sharing one of its bolts, to chain/ring lower off. 5 BR's in total.

Start: Start 2m right of OBB.

FA: Niall Doherty

17 Sport 15m, 5
15 * Strange Karma

If you are tall this will feel like an 18

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

20 Sport 15m
16 One's Enough, Two's Too Many

Start as for GFL, then left to big move off small holds

22 Sport 15m, 4
17 Gas, Food, Lodging

Central worn orange streak. Easy start up small left facing corner to blank finish. A hold has broken off this move so undercling the break and dyno away!

FA: A. Farquar, 1994

23 Sport 20m
18 * Old Salt

Fun climb with nice moves, ive seen 2 ppl get flipped when falling just below the loweroffs - Dont let the rope go behind your legs!

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

18 Sport 18m
19 Mainly Fine

After start trend right towards arete then up on dirty rock.

Start: 1m right of 'Old Salt'.

FA: Ed Rutherford

17 Sport 16m

Schwing Wall

20 Rum-Doodle / Rosco's Rotten Root

Corner left end of the well. Up crack then across to anchors

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

13 Trad 15m
21 * It Goes!

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

22 Sport 15m
22 ** Schwing
  1. 20m (18)

  2. 35m (18)

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

18 Sport 55m 2
23 ** Schwing Pitch 1

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

18 Sport 20m
24 * Schwing Pitch 2

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

15 Sport 35m
25 * Empty Chairs

Up, staying right of S, after second RB up and traverse to third. 3 RBs to DRB lower off.

FA: Niall Doherty

19 Sport 10m, 3
26 * Just Boot It

Start: Around to the right of shwing.

FA: G. Trambaiolo

22 Sport 15m
27 The Lottery of Latitude

Start: Left (facing out) around the corner from Schwing, 7m past Just Boot It. Belay ring at head height, at the start of the low roof.

Clip into the belay bolt! Desperate undercut grade 20 start, which was freed on FA. Best for leader to get a boost from the second, then leave a long sling hanging from the first piece of pro for the second to aid with when they come up. After that, grade 13 moves following shallow corner up until it steepens, then traverse right and slightly up to join halfway belay of Gimme Shelter. Good pro with threads and medium wires, bring a #4 Camalot for the first piece.

FA: Niall Doherty, Mike Patterson, 2006

13 Trad 20m
28 * Gimme Shelter

10m right (facing in) of Just Boot It. Up light coloured chossy face, go right around roof, then up and left. Two pitches, or climb as one, lower to halfway anchor, then rap from that.

FA: Niall Doherty, Peter Chaly

19 Sport 35m, 14
29 Gimme Shelter (P2 only)

Can be accessed via The Lottery of Latitude instead of GS P1.

FA: Niall Doherty, Peter Chaly

16 Sport 20m

1.6.4. Sunbath Bouldering 0 routes in Cliff

1.6.5. Colliseum 14 routes in Cliff

Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.274093, -33.673510

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pure Spirit

FA: P. Hardie, 1960

13 Trad
2 Pure Spirit Variant

FA: B. Crouch, 1970

12 Trad 55m
3 * Red Solo Cup

Definately climbed before, but no FA details. Listed as an unknown "thin crack ??" in Rockclimbs In the Upper Blue Mountains Second Edition.

The clean-looking thin corner crack just past Pure Spirit. Up thin corner, through sandy bulge, and up flared crack above.

Either continue up corner/face for another pitch back to Sunbath area, or rap off tree hanging out over cliff.

FFA: Ben Young (L), P. Thomson (S)., 2013

17 Trad 20m
4 ** Love, Beauty and Danger

Base of climb GPS coordinates: S 33deg 40.331' E 150deg 16.499'

FA: P2 Niall Doherty, Rod Smith, 2006

FA: Niall Doherty (P1, P2), Rod Smith (second, P2), 2006

23 Sport 45m 2, 20
5 Love, Beauty and Danger P1 only

FA: Niall Doherty

23 Unknown 20m
6 Love, Beauty and Danger P2 only

FA: Niall Doherty, Rod Smith (second)

21 Unknown 25m
7 * Shiver Me Timbers

FA: G. Bradbury, 1984

25 M1 Aid 50m
8 ** Mixed Business

Sporty climbing up a linked series of features with a hard crux, and a 50:50 ratio of gear to bolts. Take doubles of Cams BD 0.50 to #3, and a single of wires/nuts.

Start up thin crack left of The Wake of the Flood. Up crack on gear and flake features, following the line of bolts in the middle of the wall (with gear along the way) to crack at the top of the wall, and up short corner-thing to anchors.

FA: Giles Bradbury, 2005

25 Trad 50m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 *** Wake of the Flood
  1. Crack to V-chimney, belay on ledge above Chimney. (20); 2. Steep crack to body-squeeze, belay on obvious ledge. (21); 3. Tricky finger crack to belay on old carrot bolts (23). Traverse 3m left (past a bolt) to new rap anchors and 1 x 50m rap to the ground.

New Rap Anchors installed 3m left of belay at end of WotF 3rd pitch. 1 x 50m Rap to the ground. - P.T, 16/03/2014.

FA: ajax greene greg child, 1977

23 Trad 45m
10 ** The Conflagration

Start at the slab directly below the lower hand crack of TWotF at carrot. Take BD cams 0.3 - #3 WITH doubles of #1 and #2 and either a #4 OR #5.

Up slab past carrot and gear to hand crack. Up hand crack and break left where crack splits, and up into dihedral past more gear to a bolt. Then up finger crack to ledge. Left a move, then continue up past 7 more bolts following the line of the bolts to anchors on top ledge of stunning red wall. Can also continue up Mixed Business or The Wake of the Flood (P3) to top out.

Set by Paul Thomson, 2014

Set by Paul Thomson, 2014

FA: Paul Thomson, 2015

24 Mixed 45m, 9
11 Ginsling 13 Unknown
12 Lost at Birth 23 Unknown 35m
13 Zucchini Crack / Finnegans Wake

The hand to finger crack up the sandy wall well past Wake Of The Flood. Originally called Zucchini Crack when first climbed. Re-climbed recently and accidentally claimed as an FA under the name Finnegans Wake (as per the Blue Mountains guidebook). Has gotten harder over the years because of the terribly sandy rock.

Hand & finger jamming, then into incipient seam to tree (Finnegans Wake ends here), then further up crack to where it ends, and step left and follow the line through two more bulges (crux) to the top of the cliff.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, Mark Burton, 1980

21 Trad 25m
14 * Baird’s Route

FA: W. Baird, 2000

26 Sport 50m

1.6.6. Valley Farm 15 routes in Cliff

Unknown, Aid and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.273407, -33.672310

Description:© (Niall)

The cliffline that runs underneath 'The Sunbath' area, away from the Coliseum and towards 'Sooty Crag'.

Useful Info: 'Access' by going down the steps and ladders from 'The Sunbath'. The top of the descent is at the end of the track that runs underneath 'Old Salt' and adjacent climbs.

Approach:© (Niall)
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Big Easy

Starts off the far left end of the ledge which is at the bottom of the steel ladder halfway down the valley descent.

FA: Glenn Short, Pam Mort

15 Mixed 17m, 8
2 Virgins with Rifles

Starts halfway out the ledge that is at the bottom of the steel ladder halfway down the valley descent.

FA: Niall Doherty, Hamish Kerr

19 Sport 15m, 6
3 All Sorts 8 Unknown 30m
4 Bus Stop Boxer

5m left of All Sorts. Finishes on ledge at belay of Virgins with Rifles

FA: Niall Doherty

19 Sport 20m, 9
5 Centaur 11 Unknown 43m
6 Anonymous 12 Unknown 53m
7 Wavy Chimney 8 Unknown 20m
8 Fruitless 9 Unknown 30m
9 Trog 9 M2 Aid 47m
10 Revolver 14 Unknown 50m
11 Rubber Soul 15 M1 Aid 56m
12 Street Legal

The arete left of Running Gun Blues. Up the arete and wall carefully past the nose then up the arete to a bolt on a small ledge. Crux past the bolt and up trending left to the corner. Up to belay.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Burton, 1980

20 Unknown 46m
13 * Running Gun Blues

The wall left of Hard Day's Night. Straight up the wall to reach L into a wide crack. Up onto small ledge then follow the line through two more bulges (crux) to the top of the cliff.

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn, Mark Burton, 1980

21 Unknown 40m
14 Hard Days Night 15 M1 Aid 40m
15 Stonkered 20 Unknown 57m

1.6.7. The Sporting Complex 10 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.277013, -33.675718

Description:© (mjw)

A fantastic morning out. Rap in-climb out.

The rap point is at the top of 'Smoko' - you have to scramble down a few metres to them (take care!). Always a good idea to take a separate rap rope and leave it in place - just in case.

If you want, it is possible to do all the routes off the ledge. You will need a 60m rope or longer. All the routes start off the same small dirt ledge, so it can be cosy if more than one group is here.

The sun hits the crag at about 1:30pm in summer.

Approach:© (mjw)

The approach is a bit of a rabbit warren of small foot tracks getting less and less distinct as you get further from the carpark. Check the guidebook.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Projey the Project (Closed)

Grey 'slab' 2m left of Being and Nothingness. No bolts yet. A fine top-rope problem until the stainless arrives. Closed project - stay off.

Set by @nmonteith

Sport Project 35m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 ** Being and Nothingness

Starting up the easy slab a few metres left of Life of Riley, this line climbs the speckled orange streak near the vegetated crack, deviating into the crack briefly at the 7th bolt (where it would be contrived to avoid it) and rejoining the face at the 8th bolt, before heading through the bulge and up the vibrant orange streak to the top on weird pockets. Avoid straying off-route onto life of riley at the last hard moves.

Set by Paul Thomson, 2015

FA: @pthomson, 2015

25 Sport 32m, 12
3 *** Thus Spoke Zarathustra (Linkup)

Super-sustained climbing, tackling the most intense bits of Being and Nothingness and Buckley's Chance on the best rock.

Start up Life of Riley and continue up Buckley's Chance. Put a long sling on the 10th bolt (where the corner arches back right), step left and put a long sling on the bolt under the rooflet of Being and Nothingness, and blast up the mega headwall with increasing difficulty to a final reachy and very committing finale.

FA: Paul Thomson, 2015

26 Sport 35m, 14
4 ** Buckley's Chance

Long sweet wall route with no shale bands or ledges. Start up Life of Riley for two bolts then break left and up face. At 8th bolt step left into major corner feature (vegetated). Stem up this for a few metres then finish up juggy headwall to join into Life Of Riley at last bolt. 14 bolts in total.

Set by Paul Thomson, 2015

FA: @nmonteith,@pthomson, 2015

24 Sport 35m, 13
5 *** The Life of Riley

The grand classic of this wall. One of the best routes of this style in the mountains. Rebolted 2004.

FA: G. Child, J. Smoothy, 1993

25 Sport 35m
6 ** Smoko

Rebolted 2004, and much appreciated. However, be aware that the first bolt was moved lower, unfortunately into some very hollow rock.

Start: Start where the abseil lands you.

FA: G. Child, M. Law, 1993

23 Sport 35m, 16
7 *** Leviathan

Start up Smoko, at the 2nd bolt head directly R to the 1st bolt on Leviathan, then up via power-crimping moves to gain the black streak that runs the length of this wall. Follow the black streak around the first steep flake, and up the wall staying between Smoko and GABDUY through the surprisingly steep final bulge (moving slightly R up the flake to gain a series of pockets, then back L up the line of bolts) to topout on top of the boulder.

Set by Paul Thomson, 2015

Set by Paul Thomson, 2015

FA: Paul Thomson, 2015

26 Sport 32m, 15
8 ** Get a Black Dog Up Ya

Can be climbed easily and more pleasantly in one long pitch - take several very long runners.

  1. 15m (19). As for LACS, belaying on triangular foot ledge on the arete.

  2. 20m (24). Directly up arete (as for up LACS pitch 2 past two FHs) then, where LACS's FHs trend R, head a little left and up following rings to finish on the right side of the block above the bulge, where anchors/loweroffs have been installed.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1999

24 Sport 35m 2, 17
9 ** Like a Cut Snake

Exposed and exciting (and due for a rebolt). Do not try and combine the pitches.

  1. 15m (21) Step R and up off the ledge, then follow the traverse line 5m R to near the arete. Up face on jugs, then step R to finish on the arete on triangular foot ledge. TBB.

  2. 20m (21) Follow the FHs up, then hard R (some long runners helpful) to super exposed arete conclusion. New anchors/loweroffs have now been installed. Escape right and up past anchors for the mystery line.

FA: G. Child, M. Taylor, 1993

21 Sport 35m 2
10 Mystery bolt line

About 8m R of p2 of LaCS is a line of bolts. It looks like you'd have to rap in as it starts in the middle of nowhere.


1.6.8. The Underworld 19 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.277462, -33.675428

Description:© (Ashy)

The best (free) description at the moment is on Simon Carter's webpage: http://www.onsight.com.au/news-blog/articles/88/the-underworld-unveiled

No doubt ACA will catch up soon.

Approach:© (Ashy)

Access Glen Rosa as described up on level. 'The Underworld' is the western side of the Glen, and in fact is the "back wall" of the Sporting Complex buttress. Most routes start on the elevated tier. There are some much easier (20ish) vertical routes at the left end, on the 12m wall below the starting ledge of 'Julius Caesar'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ?

unknown first route, seems to be about a 19. Has not had much traffic and lots of loose blocks...

19 Sport 16m, 6
2 * Hazzard County 21 Sport 12m
3 Marcus Brutus* 21 Sport 12m
4 * The Untouchables 19 Sport 12m
5 ** Julius Caesar

Excellent, and unusually steep for the Blueys.

Start: Start towards the left end of the elevated ledge.

FA: G. Collum, 1994

24 Sport 12m, 6
6 ** Gravel Rash

This is the splitter crack out the humungous roofs. Strange that it got bolted, though you also need trad. Now has a double ring bolt lower off.

FA: G. Child, 1994

25 Sport 15m, 3
7 ** Dr. Dark's Cave

Up GR for about 8m, then head 10m right along the break/wall thing out the huge roof to the lip. The gear is mostly bad old bolts and pitons, with perhaps some trad and 1 or 2 new bolts where the new lines cross the traverse.

Start: Start as for 'Gravel Rash'.

FA: G. Child, M. Taylor, 1993

23 Sport 15m
8 *** Assassins

Start: On blunt arete on the right side of the steps.

FA: Z Vertrees, 2010

30 Sport 24m
9 Back to the Underground

Tackles the obvious prow near the centre of the wall, then through the roof and finish along left at the lip

29 Sport
10 ** Mississippi Moonshine

Start 3m right of the prow and climb the black shale tufa feature, then trend left through the roof and back right to finish over the lip. Back jump to clean

FA: V Day, 2010

30 Sport 14m
11 Hashish

Start up Mississippi Moonshine then head across left to join assassins

32 Sport 28m
12 Prohabition

Start up Mississippi Moonshine then step left and finish up the project

31 Sport 16m
13 The River Styx

Bouldery start off the diving board

25 Sport 12m
14 * Tomb Raider

Start up the bouldery start of The River Styx, traverse aout 8m left to finish at a U bolt and fixed wire just up on the head wall.

FA: H Sutton, 2010

25 Sport 16m
15 * Odyssey

The long traverse starting as for The River Styx, then fiinishing at the anchors of Prohibition. Great jugging along the break.

FA: H Sutton, 2010

25 Sport 22m
16 ** Elmars Gantry

Start: Directly up the blunt arete

FA: E Jurg, 2010

29 Sport 12m
17 Project - Vince Sport 8m
18 * Public Enemy

Start: Start 4m R of JC.

FA: V Day, 2009

32 Sport 8m
19 The Proposition

FA: Tom O'Halloran, 2015

32 Sport

1.6.9. Pole 28 30 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.276269, -33.678973


Nice crag with one cliff in the sun all day and the other getting afternoon sun.

For lower Pole 28 area (actually part of the old Flying Fox crag) access by rapping off the power-pole atop the cliff, just downhill from the upper Pole 28 left-side climbs (Alpha Male etc). Alternatively, walk access via the Three Brothers area, following the cliff line RIGHT (north) from the base of the lower descent gully for several hundred metres, past FatF & Copperhead on Ice, and eventually to a massive amphitheatre with an obvious traverse crack in a smooth steep wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Right Side

The next 5 routes are on the right side of the descent stairs (facing out)

1 Just a Little Late

Start on left of main wall at slight corner. Follow left line of rings to lower-offs.

FA: J DeMartin, 2010

22 Sport 15m
2 * Beavermart

Start as for JaLL until second ring then head slightly right and follow rings to lower-offs.

FA: D Taylor, 2008

23 Sport 15m
3 * Path to Paradise

Great climbing with shade in the morning and sun in the afternoon. Lots of bolts and plenty of stylish moves. Hard for the grade!

FA: D Taylor, 2008

21 Sport 15m, 10
4 ** Angle of the Dangle

start 5m right of PtP. Scramble up to ledge, clip ring in roof then straight up to lower-offs.

FA: M Spring, 2008

24 Sport 15m
5 * Bubble Guts

Steep problem tending right then up. Mostly 19-21 moves with a single 23 sequence near the beginning. Very stylish climbing.

FA: D Taylor, 2008

23 Sport 15m, 8

Left Side

The next routes are on the left side of the descent stairs (facing out)

6 No Lunch

Left most line

FA: Jason Lammers & Rick Phillips, 2011

18 Sport 14m
7 * Desensitise

Direct between the scoops

FA: Jason Lammers & Rick Phillips, 2011

21 Sport 12m
8 * Alpha Male

On the left side of the crag coming down the stairs, third route along. Nice rock in the sun all day, and out of the wind! Good bit of winter rock!

FA: Tom Hepner, 2010

21 Sport 10m, 6
9 * LoFi

Up AM, then continue directly up the arete.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

22 Sport 10m
10 HiFi

First 2 bolts on BM then head left passing another bolt to gain arete and finish as per LoFi.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

22 Sport 10m
11 * Beta Mail

Fourth climb along the left wall, a few metres past the blunt arete and Alpha Male.

FA: Tom & Hannah Hepner, 2010

20 Sport 10m, 4
12 Find my iPhone

Arete to shared lower off with SM

FA: Jason Lammers & Tanya Greeves, 2011

20 Sport 10m
13 * Shoalhaven Mayor

Cool orange streak

FA: Rick Phillips & Jason Lammers, 2011

22 Sport 10m
14 Surprisingly Sweet

Right of SM

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

17 Sport 10m
15 Rohan's Roof Crack

Seam crack through roof. Originally attempted on gear by Chris Coghill, then he added some bolts when his gear started falling out. Rohan took offense, chopped the bolts and stole the project. And the world was a more ethical and morally brighter place. Amen.

FA: Rohan, 2013

28 Trad 12m
16 * Fierce Fin

Hard start and little wall then right on jugs through the roof.

Start: Middle of big cave.

FA: Karen Allen, 2011

25 Sport 12m, 8
17 Open Easy Project

Up the easy start to lip of cave. Traverse the lip "Pulling On The Porcelain" style and finally haul yourself up the orange head wall.

Set by Jason Lammers

Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 * Wave Priority

First 5 bolts of HW then directly up to tricky mantle and slab finish

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

22 Sport 18m, 8
19 *** Heat Wave

Up the steep crack, then move right to lip and up.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

23 Sport 18m
20 ** Damned if I Do

Hard start to overhung arete - pull around this onto bright orange headwall.

FA: @nmonteith

Set by @ropedonkey, 2011

25 Sport 18m, 9
21 Brother in a Lolly Bag

Orange face on left side of shale cave, about 20m right of previous route. Right trending line to lip of small roof, hard move above this then flake to finish.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

21 Sport 15m, 7
22 * Foxy the Fruit Bat

Starts in obvious orange corner and follows rings around roof at mid height.

FA: Tanya Greeves, 2011

FA: Tanya Greeves, 2011

18 Sport 20m
23 * Brothers K

Named after my kinship, the three brothers. Really nice climbing on good features, with just a few spicy moves. Stick-clip first bolt for sweet boulder moves through undercut start on good face holds, then pleasant wall climbing on funky features to a thin finish over the bulge. Start: Up the centre of a narrow south-facing wall with an undercut start and a corner to the right. FA: Tom Hepner, Hannah Hepner, Tom ‘T-bor’ Thomson - 2010-00-00

FA: Tom Hepner, Hannah Hepner, Tom 'T-bor' Thomson, 2010

22 Sport 15m, 5
24 * Brother to another mother

Start right of Brothers K at crack.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

21 Sport 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
25 ** Hooyah !

2m right of corner. Up the techo red wall.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

22 Sport 18m, 8
26 Kalifornication - Project Tom

Impressive looking line of bolts up a steep orange nose.

Set by Tom Hepner

Sport Project 16m Lower Cliff 4 routes in Area
Sport and Trad

Theses routes are located on the lower cliff.

Access Issues:

Rap from anchors near the power pole

1.6.10. Sooty Crag 13 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.273932, -33.670691

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Scorched Earth

FA: S. Bell, 2003

22 Sport 20m
2 ** Abbey Road (aka Chimera) / Chimera

Initialled start. Climbed on natural gear originally. Now bolted by some-one who thought it was a new route!

FA: Rod Young, Mark Burton, 1980

18 Sport 20m 2
3 ** Chimera Extension

Originally led on natural gear as one pitch of 40m. as Abbey Road Extension (not Chimera Extension)

FA: Rod Young, Mark Burton, 1980

23 Sport 40m
4 * Filed Away

FA: M. Rofe, 2003

20 Sport 20m
5 *** Wildfire

FA: M. File, 2003

24 Sport 20m
6 ** Vulcan

FA: S. Bell, 2003

22 Sport 25m
7 * Soo

FA: M. Rofe, 2003

19 Sport 25m
8 * Sweep

FA: M. Rofe, 2003

19 Sport 25m
9 *** Windy Row (aka Sooty) / Sooty

Climb to lower-offs at 20m, or continue to top.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Burton, 1980

16 Trad 25m 2
10 Updraft

FA: M. File, 2004

23 Sport 15m
11 Project

FA: S. Bell, 2000

12 ** Sooty

Requires gear to lower-offs.

FA: S. Bell, 2003

16 Trad 25m
13 ** Chimera

Extention makes it 23 and gives it another *! And adds 15m!

FA: M. File, 2003

18 Sport 20m

1.6.11. DG's 17 routes in Crag

Sport, Unknown and Trad
Unique Features And Strengths:

Nice orange rock. Big roof area. Easy access


Next crag along from the Flying Fox area, which Pole 28 is part of. Bolts are stainless, but hot bent so look black.

Access Issues:

Private Property. Take care, don't get climbing banned

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Chasing that Butterfly

FA: Josh Dodson, 2003

22 Sport 15m
2 Calm My Beating Heart

FA: Ian Geatches, 2003

22 Sport 15m
3 Defibrillator

FA: Ian Geatches, 2003

23 Sport 15m
4 Wee Dram

FA: Josh Dodson, 2003

20 Sport 15m
5 Topsail

FA: Ian Geatches, 2003

23 Sport 12m
6 First Mate

FA: 2003

22 Sport 12m
7 Project Chris

Maybe listed in the pole 28 area

8 ** Mad Taffy Traverse

traverse the crack for the howlin wolf to the lower offs.

FA: mad taff Tony Williams, 2004

21 Unknown 25m
9 Triple Treat

FA: Josh Dodson, 2004

26 Sport 12m
10 ** Chainsaw Juggler

Climb the crack (crux) then get on the overhang thru the dinner plates to lower offs.

FA: Tony Williams, 2004

21 Unknown 10m
11 Hornblower

All roof, right through the middle of the orange roof

FA: Ian Geatches, 2004

25 Sport 12m
12 Buckaroo direct

Start at the nose and go to first bolt. Stick clip it if you have to you pussies.

FA: Tony Williams, 2004

19 Unknown 10m
13 Buckroo Direct

Straight off the nose of the buttress. Clip the first bolt of Buckaroo if you need to and then head up to the next on the direct. #1 and #2 cam for next placement. To rings!

FA: Tony Williams, 2004

{US} AU:19 Trad 10m
14 Buckaroo

Go from the slope to the first bolt, get to the 2nd bolt. Gear from here. Good one if you've got your chick in tow that needs a lead. Hard to clean if you don't have a second.

FA: Tony Williams/ Nora Adam, 2004

14 Trad 10m
15 Exotic as I am

Right hand buttress first lin eafter corner.

FA: Nora Adam/ Tony Williams, 2004

8 Unknown 12m
16 Test Drilling

A bit to much catalyst in the megapoxy for the anchors, so a third bolt was added. Will get around to cleaning this up. Route look dirty, but the rock is mostly good.

FA: Ian Geatches, 2005

23 Sport 10m
17 Gold Dust

The best route at the crag. The direct start is a project.

FA: Josh Dodson, 2004

24 Sport 15m

1.6.12. Reservoir Dogs 9 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.275598, -33.674533

Description:© (Niall)

This rap-in halfway ledge is situated between the Sunbath and Sporting Complex areas of 'Medlow Bath', with the Hydro Majestic dominating the skyline above. The cliff face is mostly dead vertical and contains six two-pitch bolted routes and one two-pitch trad outing, all just under 40m long. The large ledge, the area above and the climbs themselves feature spectacular views out over the Megalong Valley.

Useful Info: At the bottom of the steps look a few metres to the right to find a pair of fixed hangers at the top of a small gully. (The hangers are grey and can be difficult to spot). Use your own carabiners and slings on these to rap down the short 45 degree sloped gully then the cliff itself. A 50m rope is easily long enough. It is best to bring a rope for this purpose and leave it in place.

The route you rap down is 'Bohemiath'. If you wish to climb this route and not have the rap rope in the way you could rap from the top anchor of 'Stuck in the Middle with You', a few metres north - two rings a metre back from the cliff edge, set in a cavelet underneath a boulder.

The crag is in the sun from 1:00pm in summer and 11.00am in late winter.

Approach:© (Niall)

To find the crag follow the track down from Belgravia St past the circular sunbath itself to the lookout above 'Schwing'. Turn left and follow the clifftop path. (The crag is visible, 100m away to the south, from the next lookout).

From here the path goes in around a wooded gully then back out towards the cliff. It swings left with a thicket of banksias on the right. Where these start to open out there is an old indistinct set of man-made bouldery steps heading down to the cliff edge. If you come across a wide circle in the middle of some cemented rock you've gone too far. Turn around and head back about 20 metres and you'll find the bouldery steps on your left. These steps are marked with a big cairn on their right. Walk down the short scrubby path towards the cliff top. When you walk out of the scrub turn right and look for the sloping gully. Here you'll find the fixed hangers facing you on approach.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 I Don't Tip

Fully bolted low grade climb on stainless glue-in hex bolts.

Start: Starts 5m left (facing in) of KBSS. Look for the stainless carrot about a metre above eye height.

  1. 14m (15) Straight up, or (easier) up one move, left then up past 6BR to mantle onto large belay ledge. 2FH belay on wall.

  2. 22m (12) Up trending right on some fragile ironstone, moving right around blunt arete about two thirds way up. 7BR to 2FH belay on top just right of rusted carrot sticking out of the rock. Some home made fixed hanger, a relic from a bygone age.

FA: Niall Doherty, Mike Patterson (alt), Josh Dodson, 2007

15 Mixed 36m 2, 13
2 * K-Billy's Super Sounds of the 70s

Seventies style trad. First ascent was even chalkless! (The leader forgot his chalk bag). One set of cams from yellow Alien to #4 Camalot and a set of wires will protect it. Substitute hexes for cams if you sport a toothbrush moustache and pony tail.

Start: Marked "KB".

  1. 20m (17) Enjoyable. Good quality but slightly dirty rock and thought provoking moves. Follow right trending seam over three bulges. Top bulge was passed by moving left and up on FA, but remember to protect your second! Above top bulge traverse easily right all the way to belay at tree.

  2. 16m (10) Slippery lichenous corner. Easy but poorly protected. Not worth the effort unless you are heading for the top anyway. Belay at large tree.

FA: Niall Doherty, Mike Patterson (alt), Josh Dodson, 2007

17 Trad 36m 2
3 Let's Get a Taco

Vertical face climbing with a bit of a layback section.

Start: Starts where ledge steps down, 7m left (facing in) of rap-in.

  1. 19m (18) Cruisy pitch at the grade. Up left side of overlap then left trending layback flake to face moves and mantle on large horizontal break. 7RB to 2RB belay/lower-off.

  2. 17m (17) Pretty ordinary but interesting moves. Really only worth doing if you are topping out anyway. 5RB. 'Grunt' off belay then up past awkward move on left side of overhang. Up boulder with fantastic ironstone plates to 2RB belay.

FA: Niall Doherty, Anna Beardmore, Charlie Watts, 2007

18 Sport 36m 2, 12
4 * Stuck in the Middle with You

Sustained crimpy first pitch, delicate second pitch.

Start: Starts at a small pointy boulder 3m left (facing in) of the rap-in.

  1. 19m (19) A long series of crimpy moves on a very slightly overhanging face should induce a bit of a pump! There is no decent rest until near the top. 7RB to a 2RB belay/lower-off at the big horizontal. (This pitch may end up being upped a grade. See what you think).

  2. 19m (18) Thought provoking climbing with a lot of small fragile ironstone flakes higher up and an exposed top out. 8RB to a 2RB belay in cavelet on top.

FA: Niall Doherty, Anna Beardmore, Charlie Watts, 2007

19 Sport 38m 2, 15
5 ** Bohemiath

Enjoyable face climbing.

Start: Starts off a rectangular block and climbs the rap-route.

  1. 19m (20) Straight up with hardish mantle move above second bolt then a pull through a small overlap. 7FH to twin-shackle belay/lower-off at the big horizontal.

  2. 18m (18) Awkward start out of the break - best to start on left (facing in) of belayer - up a bit then move right of the bolt line to use the layback flake and ironstone jugs. 7FH to 2FH belay at base of small rap-in gully. Best to bring up the second then belay each other on the scramble up to the rap-in hangers a few metres further up.

FA: Niall Doherty, Rod Smith (alt), 2008

20 Sport 37m 2, 14
6 ** Flex Time

A slightly left-leading line that tackles the central overhang at the top of the wall on its left side. All rings.

Starts at scoop 6m right (facing in) of Bohemiath (rap).

P1. A couple of sustained sections at the grade (crux pitch). Double ring SHB/lower off at the top of the pitch.

P2. Different style than P1 and not quite as difficult. Airy finish to belay on top.

FA: M. Franklin, A. Simson, 2012

21 Sport 40m 2, 16
7 Wake Up and Apologise Pitch 1

FA: Niall Doherty, Rod Smith

18 Unknown 27m
8 * Wake Up and Apologise

Cruisy first pitch, tough second.

Start: Starts 6m left (facing in) of MO.

  1. 20m (18) Pleasant climbing on good rock. 9FH to 2-shackle belay/lower-off.

  2. 18m (22) Tough off ledge then long series of thin moves on slightly overhung face. Trend right at top to finish on ledge. Scramble off to right. 6FH, 1RB to 2RB belay.

FA: Niall Doherty, Rod Smith, 2009

22 Sport 38m 2, 16
9 ** Mr Orange

Excellent position and exposure. Good moves on beautiful orange rock with the steep crux move on the second pitch performed 80m above the valley floor.

Start: Starts off the boulder at the south end of the ledge.

  1. 20m (20) Start will require a jump for the vertically challenged or short of reach (like the first ascentionist). Afterwards move left then up, back right and up on left side of rounded arete. Third ring is set back and can't be seen from below. 9RB to 2RB belay/lower-off at big break.

  2. 18m (21) Big exposure but nothing too desperate. Another tough start if you're not tall - begin a metre right of the belay, then up and traverse left. Head up to the hanging buttress and go straight up the steepness, marvelling at the massive pile of bird poo. Pull on to headwall then up and left on deceptively tenuous holds. 2RB + 6FH to 2RB belay on small ledge just below main platform.

FA: P2 Niall Doherty, Rod Smith

FA: Niall Doherty (P1,P2),Rod Smith (second, 2007

21 Sport 38m 2, 17

1.7. Blackheath Area 924 routes in Crag

Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.294680, -33.628216

Unique Features And Strengths:

The heart of Blue Mountains climbing.

1.7.1. Megalong Valley Crags 40 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.274991, -33.662966


All the mini crags in the megalong grouped together James Bond 31 routes in Crag
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.275282, -33.655371

Description:© (secretary)

This is a collection of crags that are accessed by driving down into the Megalong Valley from Blackheath. In winter they are in the sun all day and are generally protected from the wind. The Phoenix 9 routes in Crag
Trad, Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.274787, -33.662685


Small crag with some unique trad climbs. Finger cracks, and marathon slabbing!


TOP ACCESS (NEW) - Medlow Bath ~15min:


Driving West on the Great Western Highway, pass through Medlow Bath and bear left just past the Hydro Majestic Hotel onto Belgravia St. Continue straight ahead onto well-maintained dirt road. Just over 1.1km from where you first hit the dirt there are two clearings on the left, park at the second clearing (identifiable by a large flat orange rock at the back of the clearing, and an obvious footpad behind it).

Continue down the track at the back of the clearing (it dog-legs left near the start) for 200m until you come to a vague trail on the right (flanked by a cairn - it's the only obvious track heading off right). Head down the trail following red and white reflector markers and cairns. At the first rocky outcropping with the BLUE fixed rope, bear left (not right!) as you scramble down and continue down the hill with a rocky outcropping on your left. The track cuts right to another rocky outcropping, then makes a sharp turn left at a RED fixed rope (continuing straight ahead up the slab leads to the Archeopteryx Rap access - see below) and zig-zags down a gully past 3 more fixed ropes.

Where the trail flattens out, hug the right rock-wall and head down to an exposed ledge below an arete and a RED fixed rope. Follow the ledge to the right carefully, scramble down a prominent red dusty chute with help of another fixed rope, continue right to small chossy red cave (good for keeping packs dry). Rack up here, and traverse down and around the right rock-wall via the final BLUE fixed rope. At the bolt at the end of this traverse is the first pitch of Archeopteryx (21). Walk a further 8m along this ledge to the anchors for The Phoenix. Rap here 45m to the ground.

Via the Top Access, the area above Archeopteryx Wall (Above The Phoenix proper) can be walked to to allow a rap-in to Archeopteryx, or straight down to The Phoenix. Where the walk in takes a sharp left turn at a prominent tree and a RED fixed rope before the vegetated descent gully, head straight up over the slab, and directly down the bushy hill to the cliff (faint trail, but much vegetation). Near the cliff edge there is a red fixed rope attached to a tree, that leads straight to the rap anchors.

BOTTOM ACCESS - Megalong Valley ~35min++:

Overgrown and hard to find. Drive down Megalong Rd and park at the start of the Coachwood Glen 'Nature Trail'. Cross the creek. At the large boulders take the spur up the gully following cairns. At about half height head right into the gully and up to the base of cliff. Head right to the climbs. Watch out for leaches in summer.

1.7.2. Logan Brae 29 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.257267, -33.670114

Description:© (mjw)

Short, steep and pumpy. The mountains' version of a 'gym'.

Useful Info: This crag is on Private Property. At this stage the owners are happy for us to climb here provided that:

  • climbers remain responsible for our own safety,

  • dogs are NOT brought to the crag, and

  • residents rights are respected when it comes to parking.

Access Issues:© (mjw)

There is absolutely no access to the crag via the gated fire trail which goes through 'Berridale', under any circumstances. The approach down the driveway and fire trail (described on p96 of the 2010 ed guidebook, and p56 of the 2011 Select guidebook) at Berridale Orchids must NOT be used under any circumstances. It's about 200m earlier:- Instead, drive past the Shipley Fire Hut and up the hill, then at the second power pole park on the left (this is 40m before ‘Cliffview’, and a few hundred metres before the parking at Berridale Orchids as described in the guidebooks). The NEW track to the crag is located just to the right of the parking area. Approx 10 minutes approach.

Please refrain from creating any toilet areas along the track - keep it in until you get to the crag (better to leave it at Blackheath really). If you intend walking out in the dark - pack a head torch.

Please behave responsibly, as a lot of work has been put in to maintain our access to this crag. We still need to do more work stabilising the ledge below the climbs so please leave any materials stocked at the crag as they are, dont remove any shale from below the climbs no matter how 'dangerous' you think it is and please dont throw any loose rock/shale over the cliff as it will all be used in the stabilisation work.

Respect Native Habitat - Tread Softly and Leave No Trace.

Approach:© (mjw)

The crag is situated on Shipley Rd below Berridale Orchards. Drive past the Shipley fire hut and up the hill, at the second power pole on the left park - this is 40m before 'Cliffview'. The track to the crag is located just to the right of the parking area (no lazy 'shortcuts, please). The track straight ahead takes you to a very nice little lookout. Please do not park anywhere near 'Berridale' or in front of 'Cliffview'

Less than 10 minutes easy gradient walking track through a beautiful little gully full of native animals and plants (take care with the Sword Grass!).

There is absolutely no access to the crag via the gated fire trail which goes through 'Berridale', under any circumstances. Main Cliff 27 routes in Crag
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.257269, -33.670104


The approach down the driveway and fire trail (described on p96 of the 2010 ed guidebook, and p56 of the 2011 Select guidebook) at Berridale Orchids must NOT be used under any circumstances. Instead, drive past the Shipley Fire Hut and up the hill, then at the second power pole park on the left (this is 40m before ‘Cliffview’, and a few hundred metres before the parking at Berridale Orchids as described in the guidebooks). The NEW track to the crag is located just to the right of the parking area. Approx 10 minutes approach. Lower-Again Brae 2 routes in Cliff
All Trad
Description:© (Macciza)

The lower cliff line below 'Logan Brae' 'Main Wall'

Approach:© (Macciza)

Rap-in then climb out affair.

1.7.3. Big Top 32 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.257915, -33.646710

Description:© (secretary)

Not the best crag in the area, but in certain conditions it is! On those (very common) winter's days when it's sunny but cold and windy as hell, mornings up at 'Big Top' can be glorious. It's protected from the prevailing westerleys and gets morning sun, making for a lovely little warm microclimate when everywhere else is getting slammed.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents


First routes when heading left from approach trail.

1 ** Not in Front of the Children

Leave the tree alone and head up and right through some rather sandy stuff.

FA: L.Wishart, 1997

23 Sport 35m
2 * Twista

Shares a start with NifotC. Head left around the aret and up.

FA: L.Wishart, 2002

23 Sport 30m
3 ** Vertical Smile

FA: L.Wishart, 1997

23 Sport 30m
4 * I've Got 3 Buttocks

new guide

FA: L.Wishart, 1997

22 Sport 30m
5 ** Abso Effing Llewdly

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

21 Sport 25m
6 YonX

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

18 Sport 15m
7 * Llewd Dude

FA: M.Pircher, 2000

22 Sport 25m
8 ** JinX

Great climb. Probably the best here.

FA: M.Pircher, 2000

19 Sport 25m
9 * fliX

Start: As for JinX, then left.

FA: M.Pircher, 2004

20 Sport 25m


Further left.

10 * Oddly Bodly

FA: L.Wishart, 1998

25 Sport 22m
11 * Martin Llewder King

FA: M.Pircher, 2001

24 Sport 20m
12 Nudely Rudely

Batman start!

FA: M.Pircher, 2002

23 Sport 20m
13 * HoaX

Start: Shares a start with HV.

FA: M.Pircher, 2001

20 Sport 15m
14 ** Hairy Vengeance

Start: Off boulder about 10m right of L.

FA: M.Pircher, 2001

22 Sport 30m
15 Llewdicrous

Great fun!

FA: M.Pircher, 2001

17 Sport 25m


First route at Approach trail and then follow cliff to the right.

16 * Methane Maestro

Start: Left side of the arete following flakes. This is where the track from the road comes out.

FA: L.Wishart, 1997

26 Sport 32m
17 ** Buster Gonad

extra ring added 2004

FA: L. Wishart, 1997

25 Sport 32m
18 * Blind Fate

FA: Nathan Bolton, 2008

21 Sport 8m
19 ** 21st Century Mucoid Man

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

27 Sport 40m
20 Once You Bolt Crack You Never Go Back

FA: Nathan Bolton

17 Sport 12m
21 ** Praise the Llewd

A bolted crack!

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

22 Sport 25m
22 ** Llewds Prayer

This wall has been given the name 'The Chocolate 'Crackle' Wall'. Take care.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

25 Sport 35m
23 ** Why the Long Face?

FA: L.Wishart, 1998

25 Sport 35m
24 ** Lord Llewd

FA: S.Grkovic, 1998

25 Sport 35m
25 * Fruit of my Loins

Start up the block just left of a bushy chimney thing for a few bolts. Then step R across the chimney and traverse 4-5m further R to bypass the band of vegetation. Then up the great arete to a really airy steep finish over the final roof.

Start: Start about 20m down right from where the track leaves the base of the big red wall.

FA: L.Wishart, 2002

24 Sport 25m
26 *** Funnel to Oblivion

The name says it all!

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

28 Sport 30m
27 ** Rudely Llewdly 24 Unknown 27m


Huge bolted boulder to the right of approach.

28 Mystical Lamb

Lower arete on the boulder. Bouldery start!

FA: B.Cossey, 2003

27 Sport 12m
29 Project

The line of bolts up the line of crazy non-holds, in the middle of the downhill face of the boulder. Bolted by Lee Cossey.

Start: Between TCC and ML.

Sport 14m
30 * The Clumbsy Caterpillar

The higher arete on the boulder

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

30 Sport 12m
31 * Gooey in the Wee-wee

Route to the right of the crack. Keep out of the crack!

FA: L.Wishart, 2005

27 Sport 12m
32 Kubrick Crack

The crack on the upper side of the boulder

  1. -m (-)

  2. -m (-)

FFA: G Delacy, B Stevens, 1987

18 Trad 12m

1.7.4. Shipley Upper 82 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271453, -33.638839


Probably the most popular crag in the whole of the Blue Mountains. It has magnificent views, mostly sport routes, easy access, and great routes from the mid-teens to early 30s. Something for everyone. It faces North-West and gets plenty of sun. Sun hits the crag at 11.30am in summer. In winter you can climb all day with the sun hitting the wall from 9.30am. Location: Access via Centennial Glen Rd. Take the Fire Trail through the gate to get to the Grey Slab end of the crag,or follow the track that heads from the carpark into Centennial Glen. Turn left at the base of the eroded steps and walk through a small glen with an old stone bath in it - Cleopatra's Bath, the water that fills this bath after rain is usually good to drink - then along the track under the overhangs and around left to Wall's Ledge. (Right takes you into the Glen or down Centennial Pass to the 'Porters Pass' climbing area).

Approach:© (secretary)

Access via 'Centennial Glen' Rd. You can walk down either end of the crag and both take about the same amount of time so it doesn't really matter which way you go. To get to the right (SW) end of the crag (e.g. Sandwiches Buttress and Grey Slab), take the Fire Trail beyond the locked gate (on the left as you enter the carpark), and follow the fire trail for about 300m through low scrub with fantastic views, down a few short rock slabs with chopped steps, then turn right along the base of the crag. To get to the left (NE) end of the crag (Equaliser/Supercal areas), follow the walker's track that heads straight ahead from the carpark downhill into 'Centennial Glen'. After about 250m this takes you down a short cliffline with chopped/built steps, turn left at the base and walk about 200m to the crag, through a small glen with an old stone bath in it (Cleopatra's Bath, the water that fills this bath after rain is thought by some to be good to drink - but flows down from Blackheath so think twice), then along the dusty track under the overhangs and around left to Wall's Ledge. If you turn right at the base of the chopped steps it takes you to Centennial Glen/Porters Pass climbing areas, so it's easy to crag-hop among them all in a single day. Equaliser Wall 15 routes in Cliff
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.272442, -33.638345

Description:© (secretary)

Stay alert when lowering the leader because they will land on the wrong side of the fence, on the slippery slope leading down to the 50m cliff below. And tie a knot in the end of your rope.

This crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. It is not a designated off-leash area: dogs must be leashed at all times. Also, the BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the observed impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. More considerate dog owners therefore might like to think about not bringing your dog at all. Golliwog Wall 13 routes in Cliff
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271464, -33.638739

Description:© (secretary)

USE A 60M ROPE ON THESE ROUTES!! And tie a knot in the end of your rope!!

Leaders have been dropped off the end of the rope when using a 50m rope on these routes - and there is a big risk that, even if you survive the initial fall, you will tumble down the slope and go off the 50m cliff below. Take care!

Also, the logs are getting a bit wobbly: stick clipping the first bolt is recommended.

This sector should really be called Grand Junction sector or Displaced Persons sector, given that those routes were done more than a decade before Golliwog.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog. Hot Flyer Wall 20 routes in Cliff
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271021, -33.638965

Description:© (secretary)

USE A LONG ENOUGH ROPE ON THESE ROUTES!! And tie a knot in the end of your rope!!

Leaders have been dropped off the end of the rope at this crag when using a too-short rope - and there is a big risk that, even if you survive the initial fall, you will tumble down the slope and go off the 50m cliff below. Take care!

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog. War Babies Wall 14 routes in Cliff
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.270643, -33.639178 Grey Slab 8 routes in Cliff
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.270280, -33.639403


As its name suggests, it is the prominent grey slab near the descent from the gated Fire Trail at the end of Centennial Glen Rd. Easy routes, some with rings, and some with carrot bolts. All have lower-off's.

Approach:© (secretary)

At the left end of the crag (facing out). Sandwiches Wall 12 routes in Cliff
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.269968, -33.639611

Description:© (secretary)

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

1.7.5. Shipley Lower 40 routes in Crag

Trad, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.267809, -33.641556

Unique Features And Strengths:© (secretary)

This crag is a suntrap with the sun hitting the left end (Nikita wall) by 9am, and is also surprisingly well protected from the wind.

Description:© (secretary)

Has a great trad classic and several sport routes which, since recent rebolting, are among the best of their grade in the entire mountains! This is also one of the best winter crags in the upper mountains: apart from a paucity of rain protection it rivals Bowens Ck as one of the best winter choices. When its 8C and blowing 50km/h at Shipley Upper, the base here can still be quite ok! In fact you should avoid this crag if temps go over about 14C because it gets too hot!

Approach:© (secretary)

Walk in as for Sail Away Wall to the bottom of the chopped steps and hand rails, then head left (SW) along the base of the cliff for a few hundred metres. For the Clockwork Orange area and beyond, it might be a little quicker to abseil in from below Upper Shipley, but unless you only want to do one route the abseil is arguably not worth the admin now that the track from Sail Away is becoming more well trodden.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Unforgiven

Leftmost route on 'Nikita' wall. 28 if you go direct (after rebolt by Steve G), 27 if you snake around right the original way (by Mikl). Great rock, especially lower half.

FA: Mikl, rebolt and direct variant Steve Grkovic, 2000

27 Sport 35m
2 * The Outlaw

Start up the unforgiven till the 4/5 bolt and head right.

FFA: S Grkovic, 2008

29 Sport 40m
3 ** Nikita

Pumper, follows obvious right leaning ramp. Now starts on the ground and stops at lower-offs at 35m. Needs 16 draws and 2 more for the anchor, and a 70m rope. The good hold for the hard move down low snapped in June 2013, decide for yourself whether this does anything to the grade.

Up and right along ramp then up.

FA: J.Smoothy

FA: Mike Stacey did it at 25M1 in the age of lycra, Giles freed the start move, same grade (25)., 2000

25 Sport 35m, 16
4 ** Quran Calling

Starts approximately 100m left of Sausages and Lightbulbs, on left side of prominent arete (stay high and traverse along narrow shale ledge beneath undercut just past where the track turns left and climbs down to the lower tier). Gets early morning sun and goes into the shade after lunch.

Batman to the first jug then tip toe and crimp across the ramp and up thin wall to good holds. The climbing now gets easier up the left side long mega arête on bomber orange rock. Doubles of small cams up to .75 and some slings.

Set by Ben JengA., 2013

FFA: Ben Jenga, Paul Thompson, 2013

24 Mixed 30m, 12
5 Unknown

Starts at arête 8m L of SAL, which is marked. Looks like it joins SAL after the overhang at half height. Looks to be a rebolt of an old route? Grade indicated in chalk on the rock, I haven't climbed it!

28 Sport 25m
6 *** Sausages and Light Bulbs

30m and 16 bolts plus anchors to lower offs, 50m up easy slab with a couple more bolts.

FFA: M law, S Johns, S Moon, 1994

24 Sport 50m, 18
7 ** Brisket Tugger

Obvious thin face and sexy looking blank corner. A bit glued up, but great climbing. Don't cop out to the arete at the top!

FA: Mikl in his orange spandex days., 1936

26 Sport 50m
8 Shaken Not Stirred

Start: 50m LEFT of the waterfall.

  1. 15m (21) Corner and flake to roof. Out to ledge and belay.

  2. 20m (21) 'Flake' to break. Leftwards, then up right to ledge.

  3. 15m (-) Left and out.

FA: T.Williams,J.Smoothy, 1986

21 Trad 50m 3
9 * Hooray for Fish

Long and varied. Not so great as a warm-up!

FA: Chris Cogsy, 2008

22 Sport 32m
10 Hot Fan Faronade

Start: 15m LEFT of the waterfall.

  1. 20m (16) Start near fallen tree. Offwidth. Climb tree to wall above chockstone. Crack and wall to top of flake.

  2. 25m (20) Up ramp and wall to break. Slab to roof. Up.

FA: C.Martin,A.Penney,R.Chick, 1984

20 R Trad 45m 2
11 Blossoms

Up the tree, right to scoop, right to breaks. Left and up to ledge. Right to slab. up. 2 pitches.

Start: Right of HFF. Near the abseil landing.

FA: T.Williams, 1986

21 Trad 50m
12 5 Go Adventuring Again

Start: 13m left of 'Clockwork Orange'.

FA: Bennet,Haines,Myers,Danielle, 1988

20 Trad 50m
13 *** Clockwork Orange

Start: Orange corner 55m right of the waterfall.

  1. 20m (18) Up corner to break, left to ledge, wall and stance.

  2. 25m (20) Slab to crack. Corner, around bulge. Crack to ledge. Left along the ledge to groove.

  3. 16m (15) Up the groove.

FA: K.Bell,R.Lassman, 1972

20 Trad 61m 3
14 * Lambeg Drums

Start: As for CO.

  1. 30m (18) As for CO to ledge.

  2. 25m (18) Slab, diagonally left slab to arete.

  3. 35m (18) Up onto the slab, left of bulge and up.

FA: C.Martin,R.Chick, 1984

18 Trad 90m 3
15 The Prozac Years

3 pitches with a nightmarish mantel at the end of the second pitch. Some of the bolts are dodgy until rebolted.

FFA: G Child, G Bradbury, 1996

25 Sport 60m 3
16 Orange Marmalade

Start: Corner 8m right of CO.

  1. 15m (17) Crack to ledge.

  2. 25m (17 M3) Wall to bulge, over this onto ledge and crack. Up to roof, loose (?) flake the ledge below roof. Right to ledge and tree. THIS PITCH MAY HAVE BEEN FREED!

  3. 15m (17) Up wall.

FA: R.Lassman,K.Bell, 1972

17 M3 Aid 55m 3
17 Aquapuppy

Start: As for OM.

  1. 20m (20) Corner to traverse. Across roof. Take care! Onto arete to ledge.

  2. 10m (19) Wall and slab. Rap here. OR traverse right to gully.

FA: R.Lebreton,T.Williams, 1988

20 R Trad 30m 2
18 Rewind

Start: 25m right of CO.

  1. 20m (19) Bulge. Left up crack to ledge. Belay in the gully on the right.

  2. 20m (19) Right around arete, up and right up ramp to ledge under roof. Take care! Up to ledge.

  3. 15m (19) Up.

FA: R.Lebreton,T.Williams, 1987

19 R Trad 55m 3
19 * The Flex

Up. Careful with flake. Up, then left to break. Right to arete. Up. Finish as for R.

Start: Faint corner with black wall below flake.

FA: T.Williams,S.Moon, 1986

23 Trad 50m
20 Wildlife

Start: 3m LEFT of 'Bowstring'.

  1. 20m (21) Faint crack to slab. Belay as for 'Twinkle Toes'.

  2. 30m (21) Up and left. Travers right at steepness to ledge. Up.

FA: S.Moon,B.Cameron, 1986

21 Trad 50m 2
21 Twinkle Toes

Start: 20m LEFT of 'Bowstring'.

  1. 20m (22) Middle of black wall to ledge, slight left to belay. Take wires!

  2. 20m (22) Slab up and right to tree!

FA: T.Williams,S.Moon, 1986

22 R Trad 40m 2
22 Bowstring

Start: 100m RIGHT of CO. White right facing corner.

  1. 15m (23) Crack to offwidth roof. Corner to stance on left.

  2. 30m (18) Right into crack to big slab under roof. Right to break at end of the roof.

  3. 10m (18) Bulge and up.

FFA: W.Baird

FA: (Lassman,Bell), 2000

23 Trad 55m 3
23 Pancho Villa

Start: Yellow roofed corner 12m right of B.

  1. 20m (23) Corner, traverse right to footledge, right along break, up to ledge.

  2. 10m (15) Traverse right.

FA: T.Williams,R.Lebreton, 1988

23 Trad 30m 2
24 Caterpillar Girl

Start: Narrow wall 70m right of PV.

  1. 15m (16) Up left side of wall, step right. Up bulge and wall to ledge.

  2. 25m (17) Wall and arete.

FA: D.Haines,R.Lebreton, 1988

17 Trad 35m 2
25 Cindy Sherman

Now, she was a girl...

Start: 10m LEFT of the ESCAPE ROUTE. Corner.

FA: D.Haines,R.Lebreton, 1988

22 Trad 20m
26 Escape Route

The route to do here if you have to! Take care!

Start: Right of 'Caterpillar Girl'. Below the big red roof. 10m above the track. To freedom.

9 Trad 20m
27 The Little Prince

Start: 2m right of ER corner.

FA: M.Myers, 1988

21 Trad 30m
28 The Human Factor

Start: 80m right of 'Pancho Villa' at wide crack right of roof capped red wall.

  1. 40m (20) Corner crack 10m, left to centre of wall. Up through breaks to big one below the roof. Left to belay.

  2. 35m (19) Up groove and corner.

FA: S.Moon,G.Moore,C.Martin, 1984

20 Trad 75m 2
29 Slingshot

Start: Finger crack right of THF.

21 Trad
30 ** Nuclear Winter

Start: 35m RIGHT of THF. Short steep corner.

  1. 20m (23) Corner to ledge, right and up wall to belay on sloping ledge.

  2. 25m (24) Left, up then traverse to arete. Up.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury, 1986

24 Trad 45m 2
31 Sidewinder

Start: Right of NW. Offwidth.

21 Trad
32 The Green Room

Start: Middle of 3 high corner cracks.

FA: T.Williams,T.Carroll, 1986

19 Trad 30m
33 The Untouchable

Up TGR. Corner to crack. Right to arete. Up.

Start: As for TGR.

FA: T.Williams,G.Bradbury, 1986

21 Trad 30m
34 ** St Valentine's Day Massacre

Start: 15m right of 'Sidewinder'.

  1. 35m (23) Stick clip. Follow bolts. Traverse left. Up corner. Take long slings!

  2. 20m (15) Right from belay and up.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden,T.Williams, 1986

23 Sport 55m 2
35 ** St Clemmen's Crack

Crack right of SVDM

17 Trad
36 St Clemmen's Crack Variant

3m left to wall and narrow ledge, crack, up and mantle. Diagonally right and up (poor pro!). Diagonally left up ramp and corner to orange overlap.Traverse around nose, up right side of arete. Take wires!

Start: At SCC anchor 1.

FA: D.Grey,B.Maxwell,R.Taylor,I.Collins, 1985

18 R Trad 40m
37 ** Psycho Killer

Start: 5m up SCC. Traverse left and up. Finish as for SVDM or rap.

FA: M.Baker,J.Smoothy, 1989

25 Trad 35m
38 Whinge, Cringe, Plunge

Start: 10m right of SSC. Grey Wall

  1. 35m (23) Thin crack. Wall to ledge. Traverse left to ledge.

  2. 15m (15) Corner. Take Care!

FA: T.Williams,L.Closs, 1986

23 Trad 50m 2
39 Quite Effete

Start: Roof crack 30m right.

  1. 20m (20) Up to roof, right 10m, up to break and belay.

  2. 20m (20) Up, left to orange corner/flake. Thin break. Left to arete.

  3. 20m (18) 'Arete' and wall.

FA: T.Williams,T.Carroll, 1986

20 Trad 60m 3
40 Southern Closs

Start: From QE anchor 1.

  1. 25m (20) As for QE then right to bolt. To arete and up to ledge.

  2. 15m (21) Straight up.

FA: T.Williams,L.Closs, 1986

21 Trad 60m 2

1.7.6. Shipley Plateau 2 routes in Crag

All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Bite 23 Unknown 15m
2 Sugarloaf Lovers 20 Unknown 15m

1.7.7. Centennial Glen 117 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.274659, -33.636382


The home of sport climbing in Australia. This controversial area has been the scene of some very public debates about ethics of all kinds: chipping, bolting, climbers' toileting habits, interactions with bushwalkers, and even the climbing environment itself. Note that chipped holds did occur here, but they have all been filled in years ago. Nowadays chipping is NOT acceptable here (or anywhere else for that matter). The climbing is short, fun and very very sporty.

Approach:© (secretary)

The crag is easily accessed by two methods:

  1. Follow Bundarra St to it's west end, then walk down the Centennial Pass walking trail. After about 10 minutes (200m after crossing the creek), turn left at the signposted junction and follow the gully down into the glen.

(2) Park in the carpark at the end of 'Centennial Glen' Rd, Blackheath. Take the stepped path straight ahead (not the firetrail through the gate to the left) for about 200m until it winds down a short rock step, then turn right at the bottom. Follow this track into the glen; where it splits, stay right nearer the base of the cliffs (left takes you to the 'Porter's Pass' climbing areas through Centennial Pass).

Option 1 is fastest for the whole Glen if you're walking from Blackheath. Even if you're driving, Option 1 is just as quick as Option 2 if you are going to climb at 'Main Wall', 'White Linen', 'Search and Destroy', 'Wave Wall' or 'Woodpecker Wall'. Option 2 is by far the most popular but is only quicker for 'Junket Pumper' and 'Hip Shake Jerk' sectors ... and the carpark can get ridiculously busy. Hip Shake Jerk Area 15 routes in Cliff
Sport, Unknown and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.274149, -33.637461

Description:© (secretary)

A small steep wall on good rock. Pity about the aid starts.

Approach:© (secretary)

The area below and to the right (facing out) from the lookout below 'Centennial Glen' Rd. Faces 'Wave Wall' and is sunny and out of the wind all winter.

This is the first climbing area you come to when entering the Glen.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog. Junket Pumper Area 21 routes in Cliff
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.275155, -33.636402


80m right of the main wall to a terrace 10m above the track. This wall is opposite the main wall. One of the few areas in the Glenn that gets sun in the winter. But is desperately hot in summer. Has some very nice orange rock.

Approach:© (secretary)

Walk about 80m right of the main wall to a terrace 10m above the track. This wall is opposite the main wall.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog. Main Wall 37 routes in Cliff
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.275017, -33.635302 White Linen Wall 14 routes in Cliff
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.274387, -33.635921 Wave Wall 21 routes in Cliff
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.273752, -33.636677

Description:© (aca_admin)

This mighty impressive wall contains a great range of quality routes at all grades in the 20s. Gets sun from about 2-3pm.

Routes are described right to left, which is the order that you get to them from the walk in.

Approach:© (aca_admin)

This crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog. Woodpecker Wall 9 routes in Cliff
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.273152, -33.636557

Description:© (secretary)

A small, and often neglected crag at the extreme end of The Glen. Not particularly inspiring, but does contain some good vertical routes. Out of the sun from mid morning.

Approach:© (secretary)

Continue past Wave Wall for 20m.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

1.7.8. Porters Pass 83 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.271814, -33.635015

Description:© (secretary)

A great climbing area skirting the bottom of a huge cliffline. The area is actually on Collier's Causeway at the bottom of Cenntenial Pass.

Approach:© (secretary)

Park in 'Centennial Glen' Rd and take the stairs down to the junction of the Wall's Ledge (left) and 'Centennial Glen' (right) track. Turn right past desecrated cave. Take the lower track down through the pass (Centennial Pass, down stairs, left past the 'slippery dip'. At the bottom turn left, through fence' for 'Sail Away' area or cross the creek onto Collier's Causway. The first area you come to is the 'Dogs,Cats & Apples Wall'. Rough Trade Wall 3 routes in Cliff
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.272564, -33.638055


This is the area on the other side of the waterfall, past Sail Away Wall. Lots of rock, but not much of it really works ... with one stonking exception. Nikita Wall used to be included here, but this was a duplicate of the same info in the Lower Shipley section. Rough Trade Wall should probably be considered to extend from the waterfall for about 150m further right, until about 50m left of Unforgiven.


Walk down as per Sail Away Wall, but instead of traversing onto the ledge, turn left along the base of the crag, 6m below the Sail Away routes. The track along here is well trodden these days. Follow it for 50m until you pass the waterfall and there you go. Sail Away Wall 13 routes in Cliff
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.273309, -33.637341


Soaring orange wall to the left of the stairs at the base of Centennial Pass. Self Portrait Wall 7 routes in Cliff
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.273029, -33.637053


Shaded grey wall across Centennial Creek and on a small ledge above the track. For Chook Lotto, Done Roamin' and Chook Raffle stay on the track until just before it turns the corner. Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall 16 routes in Cliff
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.272500, -33.636935


The first wall on the right as you break into the sunlight. The routes from 'So, Said the King through to Aniseed Arete' are on a ledge above the track the others start on track level. Chasing Amy Wall 7 routes in Cliff
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.272167, -33.636341


The next wall along the track (Collier's Causeway). the routes start on a ledge above the track, Chasing Amy is the 'seam' on Fixed Hangers. La La Land Area 7 routes in Cliff
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.272041, -33.636092 Thrustblock Area 8 routes in Cliff
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.271695, -33.635566


There is a steep track down and around the corner from Sesame St Area that head`up towards the great chimney - Thrustblock. SSCC4 Area 14 routes in Cliff
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.271267, -33.635085 The Birdcage Area 8 routes in Cliff
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.271988, -33.631938


About 400m or so along the Causeway and up through the bush above the track. The Birdcage is the big guano plastered corner.

1.7.9. Gateway & Fort Rock 19 routes in Crag

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.272564, -33.631589

Description:© (secretary)

Two small upper cliff outcrops with some surprisingly good rock by Blueys standards, although also with a few snappable edges still lurking.

Access Issues:© (secretary)

You can come in from Thirroul Ave along what looks like a bush track, but this actually involves trespassing on the school land.

Approach:© (secretary)

Walk in from Bundarra St for 10 mins to Fort Rock, then continue west down the hill to a track / firebreak which contours around the hill. Fort Rock Crag is the first on the left about 200m from Fort Rock, or continue another 300m to the Gateway walk down. Fort Rock Crag 5 routes in Cliff
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.272447, -33.632532


Not to be confused with Fort Rock, which is the 4m high rock outcrop / lookout at the top of the hill at the end of the Fort Rock walking track. While not a new crag it seems to have been forgotten about, which is a shame as the routes are quite good. Especially if you need a better warm up for Gateway than a tweaky 24. Crag faces west-southwest and is slightly overhung, so its shady until mid arvo. Apart from one route all the routes need some trad gear. And rebolting!


About 300m from Fort Rock, walk down at the North end of the crag. The track is faint, bring clippers and make some cairns to help prevent track braiding.

Descent Notes:

The two central routes share lower-offs, the rest you have to top out then walk down. Gateway 14 routes in Cliff
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.272713, -33.631058

Descent Notes:

All routes have lower offs.

1.7.10. Celebrity Crag 14 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271239, -33.627370


Park at the west end of Burton St Blackheath. Follow the bushwalkers' trail, signposted to Porters Pass, for 10 minutes down into a ferny creek. Rock Hudson is the overhang cliff on the other (north) side of the creek, immediately above the track. To get to Jimmy Cliff where the most popular climbs are, follow the walker's trail across the creek (ignore the "lost climbers" trail which stays on the left/south side of the creek, the first bit is muddy and sketchy), walk downstream beneath Rock Hudson for 30m, then leave the bushwalkers' trail and cross back over to the left/south side of the creek. The climbers' path leads another 30m downstream to the ledge/slot/crawl (further details below).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Rehab Boulder

The obvious boulder on the right hand side of the track just after you cross the creek (opposite side to the stairs).

1 * Rehab

Start at far right end of the boulder, traverse left to opposite end (at tree). Stays mid/low. 22 moves.

FA: Christopher Welsh, 1999

V3 Boulder

Rock Hudson

2 ** 0055 Hot Wet Action

FA: S. Steward, 1995

23 Sport 15m
3 * Truly Madly Deeply Steeply

FA: S. Steward, 1995

21 Sport 15m
4 ** Geek Heathen

FA: J. Clark, 1996

23 Sport 15m

Jimmy Cliff

The following 7 climbs are on Jimmy Cliff which is found by walking carefully around the path and to the left via a narrow cut-out ledge. Given the height of the drop below, it's worth taking your pack off so it doesn't hit the roof of the low slot and throw you off balance. There is a ringbolt at each end to allow you to set up a 10m safety line if you wish. The first four routes get sun from about 1pm, but the other three routes are 10m further right amongst the trees, and are well shaded by the foliage all afternoon.

5 ** Mr Christmas Poo

FA: J. Clark, 1995

20 Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 * Butt Nuggets

Lower-offs added 2004

FA: J. Kurko, 1995

19 Sport 15m
7 * Johnny's Jalopies

FA: C. Hale, 1995

18 Sport 15m, 7
8 Mr Scumbag

WARNING: On 31/03/15, this climb had red tape on the first bolt and a "LOOSE ANCHORS" warning written in chalk at the base.

FA: C. Hale, 1995

18 Sport 15m
9 Anal Leakage

FA: M. Pircher, 1996

19 Sport 12m
10 * Hark! The ..

FA: M. Pircher, 1996

20 Sport 12m
11 * Rudolf the Bloody Reindeer

FA: M. Pircher, 1996

23 Sport 12m

Cliff Richard

12 ** Good but Fucking

FA: S. Steward, 1995

20 Sport 15m
13 ** Blah Blah Woof Woof

FA: S. Steward, 1995

23 Sport 15m
14 Project (Frey) project Unknown

1.7.11. Heathcliff 36 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.268980, -33.627315

Description:© (rogerb)

A reasonably remote-feeling big cliff which catches afternoon sun when it's cold. Mainly sport routes plus a few classic cracklines.

Approach:© (rogerb)

Approach as for Celebrity Crag, but the trail then drops down into the gully and contours around and up to the cliff. The track is not very good and not very defined - be prepared.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Unearthed

A good 4-pitch gear route around the south side of Heathcliff. Bring a double set of wires and cams (a #4 cam is useful for the roof traverse on p2, but not required as there is smaller gear nearby). Beware of some loose rock on all pitches, particularly the large death block midway up p1 on the left.

P1- 20m (18). Up corner crack, belay at second shale band beneath roof crack. P2- 20m (19). Rightward traverse under roof with feeling. Pull the corner, up to ledge. P3- 40m (19-20). Steep crack to easy gully. Belay below yellow/orange corner. P4- 20m (19). There are several finishes, but direct up the corner is good, despite the poor looking rock. Belay off carrots on top. Walk off.

20 Trad 110m 4
2 ** Unearthed DF

P4. Up crack and left at top. Good rock (!), pro and climbing. Best pitch of the route.

FA: C Kritzinger, D Smith, 2004

18 Trad 25m
3 * Worrying Heights 22 M1 Aid 110m
4 Blind Leading the Blind 22 Trad 30m
5 Unnamed 20 Trad 20m
6 Savage Bliss

3 pitchs

  1. 20m (22)

  2. 18m (20)

  3. 22m (25)

FFA: 2007

25 Trad 60m
7 *** Spurs of Barren Jangling

Up the middle of the middle (See guide book for remaining routes on this cliff).

Start: At the bottom of the middle. Left of the "project" shown as the leftmost route in the 2007 guidebook topo.

FA: R Bourne, 2007

23 Sport 35m
8 Pete Rhodes 19 Sport 25m
9 ** Hawk's Nest 23 Sport 22m
10 *** Ricardo Lagos 22 Sport 20m
11 Dan Rampe 22 Sport 20m
12 ** Spook

crack to chains

FA: I Valenta, R Dunn, 2004

20 Trad 25m
13 * A Bit like the Grose
  1. Start as per the rift, a few moves on the slab then left up the ramp, on to wall.

  2. Up the wall on pockets and breaks. Trend right near the top. (can be linked with pitch 1)

  3. Up vague corner, then left to arete. All the way to the top on carrots or finsih up pitch 3 of the Rift if you dont have any bolt plates.

FA: Ivan Valenta, 2008

20 Sport 60m 3, 10
14 *** The Rift

Start: 10m left of the large block that leans on the main face.

  1. 20m (18) Up slab.

  2. 20m (19) Up wall to ledge.

  3. 15m (19) Up arete

FA: I Valenta, R Dunn, 2004

19 Sport 55m 3
15 ** The Rift (Pitch 1) 18 Sport 25m
16 *** The Rift Pitch 2 19 Sport
17 * The Rift Pitch 3 18 Sport 20m
18 * Wise Crack

Start: Just left of the block.

FA: R Dunn, I Valenta, 2004

20 Trad 25m
19 ** Chip Off the Old Block

Start: Off the top of the block. Stepping right onto slab

FA: I Valenta, R Dunn, 2004

19 Sport 25m, 10
20 ** Centre of block

Step off centre of block up shallow dihedral to shared anchors with COTOB.

21 Sport 15m
21 * 14 Carrot Gold

Traverse left then up wall past carrots.

Start: At the top of Chip Off The Old Block.

FA: I Valenta, R Dunn, 2004

17 Trad 35m
22 * Plumbers Crack

Up crack with natural protection then past 6 carrots to ledge and anchor as for COtOB

Start: Start at obvious left facing crack 10m right of block.

FA: R Dun, I Valenta, 2004

19 Trad 26m
23 ** Skuzeeney Jaludek

As for "Pumpkin Puree" then right line of rings to ledge and DRBB

22 Sport 20m, 8
24 *** Thing 2


All Carrots

Start: 15m right of T1

  1. 17m (22) Up 'Flake' right and up to belay.

  2. 48m (20) Follow carrots and rings to top

FA: J Smoothy G Williams, 2000

22 Sport 65m 2
25 *** Thing 2 - Pitch 1

Up flake and then right and up. All rings

FA: John Smoothy, 2000

22 Sport 20m
26 ** Thing 2 (pitch 2)

FA: J.Smoothy/ G.Williams, 2000

20 Sport 48m
27 * Thing 1

Diagonal Crack. Join pitch 1 of this with pitch 2 of next route for classy two pitch 20.

  1. 28m (20) Crack past 6 carrots and #1 & #3 friends to rings.

  2. 32m (21) Up right to slab and rings

FA: J Smoothy G Williams, 2000

21 Trad 60m 2
28 ** Thing 1 (pitch 1)

FA: Smoothy/ Williams

20 Trad 28m
29 ** Pumpkin Puree
  1. Hard start on incuts

  2. Up on good rock. Take 1 bolt plate, the rest are rings.

FA: I & V Valenta, 2007

22 Sport 50m 2, 10
30 ** Leighsageezer

Start: Start at slab 5m left of 'Bad Blood'

  1. 23m (22) Thin Moves up slab past 9 rings to anchor

  2. 25m (23) 'Steep' climbing through a small roof to a 2 ring belay

  3. 15m (15) Easy to top but runout!

FA: I Valenta R Dun, 2004

23 Sport 60m 3
31 ** Leighsageezer Pitch 1 22 Sport 25m
32 ** Bad Blood

Start: Start at far right end of cliff under a patch of orange rock. Bad blood is the left line of bolts. Some loose Rock

  1. 25m (19) HArd move of ground the up groove and juggy wall

  2. 15m (22) Straight up steep Wall

22 Sport 40m 2, 17
33 * Bad Blood P1

FA: 2004

19 Sport 25m
34 ** Fake Blood

Start: as for BB then right line of bolts

FA: Damien Heath, Tony Williams, 2003

18 Sport 20m, 10
35 * Boadicea

2 pitches, top out.

FA: G.Short

18 Sport 75m
36 * Milarepa

Start: at 2nd pitch belay of Boadicea.

Take lots of plates.

FA: G Short, 2007

13 Trad 30m

1.7.12. Atlantis 33 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.315010, -33.608713

Description:© (mjw)

A lost world. Protected from the wind and sunny. Good for mid winter. Can be hot as hell in the summer!

Useful Info: Many of the bolt are working themselves loose so take care. If you want to do the easy climbs above the 'Dust Bowl' you will need to climb eithwe 'Hillbilly' or 'He-Man'!

Approach:© (mjw)

Drive down Hat Hill Rd past the emergency airfield (big sandy area on the left) the road turns to dirt here. Turn left at the next road - Godson Ave. Park on the right at the obvious bend. Take the fire trail until it runs out, head left (there is a track going straight ahead) follow track down below first small cliff then right around the small cliff to pick up track again. Fixed ropes down second small cliff, then right under cliff and above Hat Hill Creek. Continue past first 3 routes for 15m to steel rungs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Herminator

Start: The far lefthand route on the ledge. Watch out for the bees!

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

25 Sport 23m
2 *** Highside

FA: M.Pircher, 1997

23 Sport 23m
3 ** Hoderlump

FA: M.Pircher, 1997

24 Sport 23m
4 ** Hysteresis

needs new bolts.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury, 1997

23 Sport 23m
5 * Histrionix

FA: M.Pircher,G.Trutnovsky, 1997

22 Sport 23m
6 ** Hisbollah

FA: M.Pircher,J.Smoothy, 1997

24 Sport 12m
7 * Hillbilly

Start: The 1st route on the ledge.

FA: M.Pircher,G.Trutnovsky, 1997

24 Sport 15m