Crag Guide for Blue Mountains

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Blue Mountains 4,550 routes in Crag

87635412

1 Lower Blue Mountains, 2 Kings Tableland, 3 Leura, 4 Katoomba Area, 5 Medlow Bath, 6 Blackheath Area, 7 Mount Victoria Area, 8 Bell's Line of Road

seasonality

Summary:

Sport,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.337263, -33.703968

Unique Features And Strengths:

Massive amounts of rock, easily accessible high quality routes in a beautiful location.

Description:

Driving up into the Blue Mountains is like entering a fortress, for once you are up in them, you are on a plateau surrounded on all sides by cliffs. It is in this almost suburban bush surrounding, that some of Australia's best climbing resides. From big adventurous walls, to smaller single pitch sport climbs, to fantastic trad climbing, the Blueys has a bit of it all. All this comes amidst the smoky blue green vistas of the Blueys, which on a good day are so peaceful you will never want to leave.

The Blue Mountains are a unique destination offering a very civilised climbing experience, courtesy of places like Katoomba and Blackheath, that sport a healthy cafe culture. The mornings can begin with a coffee in Blackheath and a visit to the bakery. The day can then be spent thrashing yourself on some of the countless sport routes, or scaring yourself silly on some sandy trad horror show. The evening can then culminate in Katoomba with a nice café meal and possibly a film. For a more traditional experience head to Mt Victoria for the pub, and the rickety old theatre. Most of the crags are within easy driving distance of each other, and in some cases easy walking distance. The most popular area is around Blackheath which offers the highest concentration of quality climbing to be found. There are many other areas though which are very good, most of which are within half an hour, to an hours drive away. For most people these days, the Blueys is really a sport climbing destination. Apart from Nowra, there is no other place where you will find so many sport routes. There is still plenty of trad climbing though, even though the sandstone is not as suited to trad climbing as the Grampians and Arapiles, being generally poorer in quality. Mt Piddington and Mt York are probably two of the best places to trad climb, although both crags offer some sport climbing. Around Blackheath the best sport area is Centennial Glen, although Upper Shipley probably offers more options for the intermediate climber.

For the beginner climber the Blue Mountains is nowhere near as good as Arapiles or the Grampians, the easier routes do tend to be the chossier ones. For the intermediate to advanced climber though, the Blue Mountains is fantastic. The beginner climber should not be put off however, as the Blue Mountains probably has more climbing companies offering introductions to climbing, than anywhere else in the country. The Blueys is a fantastic place to spend time, although it can be a little more expensive than other areas, due to having so many more temptations.

Access Issues:

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach:

An hour and a half’s drive west of Sydney (80kms). There is a train line that runs right across the top of the Blue Mountains plateau and many stations (e.g. Blackheath) are in very close proximity to the crags. There is also a bus service.

Where To Stay:

Camping isn't fantastic; there are free campgrounds in the Megalong Valley, Mt York and Perrys Lookdown but they are a long way from the crags if you don't have a car and have limited facilities. Blackheath has a BMCC operated campground which offers security and showers and is in the centre of the main climbing hub. Katoomba has plenty of hostels and there are many bed and breakfast type places through the mountains, if you can afford it. It really is a place where a car is needed to make the best of the area.

Ethic:

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

History:

Birthplace of climbing in Australia?

1.1. Lower Blue Mountains 302 routes in Crag

211710816543

1 Slab World, 2 The Heights, 3 Norton's Basin, 4 Mulgoa lookout, 5 Glenbrook Gorge, 6 The Surgery, 7 Yellowrock, 8 Birdwood Gully, 10 Zed Dimension, 11 BYU

Summary:

Trad,Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.605127, -33.744011

1.1.1. Slab World 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.574291, -33.735419

Description:© (secretary)

Slab World is located in the Lower Blue Mountain's near Springwood. Head to Martins lookout on Farms road at Springwood. Park the car at end of dirt track and head towards the lookout. 20 metres before the lookout, turn right along the path. Continue along path for about 15 minutes heading into valley. After a steepish section and a left turnn you will see a big cairn and faint track on the left,follow to the cliff line along for roughly 200 metres. Spider Wall is up high on a ledge, while the main wall is 100 metres further along. There is plenty of rock on broken down cliffs for further development should anyone be keen and not mind the walk.

Approach:© (secretary)

Slab World is located in the Lower Blue Mountain's near Springwood.

Head to Martins lookout on Farms road at Springwood. Park the car at end of dirt track and head towards the lookout. 20 metres before the lookout, turn right along the path. Continue along path for about 15 minutes heading into valley. After a steepish section and two switchbacks in the path, a large orange cave will be seen on the left. Head to cave and follow the cliff line along for roughly 200 metres. 'Spider' Wall is up high on a ledge, while the main wall is 100 metres further along.

There is plenty of rock on broken down cliffs for further development should anyone be keen and not mind the walk.

1.1.1.1. Spider wall 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport

Description:© (secretary)

Up high in corner on a small ledge

1.1.1.2. Main Wall 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Description:© (secretary)

Slabby to vertical wall up to 15m high.

1.1.2. The Heights 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,Top Rope

Long/Lat: 150.651448, -33.664765

Description:© (secretary)

The Crag is small by Blue Mountain standard's, being about 100 metre's long broken up by several large caves. 'Purgatory Wall' recieves sun about Midday, while 'Bull Ant Wall' is in sun up to about 2-3pm. Kev's boulder is shaded from around 11am onwards. The wall's range from slabs to over vertical and are all quite short. If it looks like it might rain up in the Bluey's 'The Heights' might make a good alternative.

Approach:© (secretary)

The Height's is located in the Lower Blue Mountain's near Winmalee overlooking the Nepean river.

From Springwood head north along Hawkesbury Road to the until you get to the Hawkesbury lookout where you park your car. Head down the road, near the end of the barriers step over and follow the faint track. Once at the cliff edge, head left for about 100 metres where you can scramble down to the base of 'Purgatory Wall'.

1.1.2.1. Purgatory Wall 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

Top Rope,Sport

Description:© (secretary)

A slabby Wall about 9 metres high with some good rock. All climbs are described from left to right

1.1.2.2. Bull Ant Wall 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,Top Rope

Description:© (secretary)

An orange steepish wall about 10 metres high. All climbs are described from left to right.

1.1.3. Norton's Basin 79 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 150.617301, -33.858742

1.1.3.1. West Side Crag 28 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.3.2. East Side Crag 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.1.3.3. Riverside Crag 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.1.4. Mulgoa lookout 1 route in Area

3

3 Lookout Climbs

Summary:

All Top Rope

Long/Lat: 150.617690, -33.818550

Description:

Some sandy routes, old carrots and cookie cave. Overlooks Nepean river

Approach:

Drive to end of Fairlight road, Mulgoa.

History:

Stu and Dan i think developed most of the cookie cave. not sure about the old carrots on the lookout boulder. Dan and Todd threw some staino in round 09.

1.1.4.1. Bolt Wall 0 routes in Cliff

Description:

mixed and TR routes

Approach:

at the carpark. head back down the road and veer off right into the bush.

Descent Notes:

head towards the water till it starts to decend the head SW. climb faces South

1.1.4.2. Cookie cave 0 routes in Boulder

Description:

Cool little cave with variety of problems.

Approach:

walk straight down path (dont fang left like your going to the lookout) after bout 200 meters where the track goes right pull off left and follow faint track

History:

stumbled onto it when scoping out the area. Dan was, and Stu still is Living in mulgoa. im pretty sure they know most about it.

1.1.4.3. Lookout Climbs 1 route in Sector

Summary:

Long/Lat: 150.617871, -33.818440

Description:

Some old andy mixed and TR routes. i route with RBs

Approach:

head to the lookout. lookout boulder has some old carrots and decent pro for top anchors.

Descent Notes:

Todds helm. get to underneath the lookout. face the water and head right scrambling down slightly for 30m. you should be able to see ring bolts on the rock

History:

Carrots and lookout climbs unknown. Todd bolted the helm and is developing other mixed/sport routes in the area

1.1.5. Glenbrook Gorge 101 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.629642, -33.781657

Description:© (PThomson)

Old school adventurous mostly-trad climbing on rock of varying quality. A few classics (Annelid Crack/Kippax Crack in particular) combined with a quiet, majestic location and located 45min closer to Sydney than the main Blueys crags make this worth a look.

Useful Info: The lower section of the cliffline to the left and right of the first pitch of 'Annelid Crack' is the lower cliffline. Immediately right of the crack is I'd Rather be Cable Skiiing (16), 'New Sensations' (16) and 'Powder Finger' (21), continuing past many climbs to Tungston Tips (22) at the end of this wall. Immediately left of the Annelid crack is 'Airstrike' (21), 'Flying Pickets' (21) and Tas (21).

Follow the lower cliffline downstream (east) past several more climbs and you will find 'Lady Killer' (21) marked in a small cave, with 'Three Cans Later' (16) and 'Mephisto' (22) above it on a small ledge. Continuing east you'll find a gully which leads up to the middle-section of the 'Main Wall'. Heading straight up the gully brings you to a cave cut from orange rock, with Kevin's Wall (12), Kevin's Corner (14/16), and 'Good Old Days' (21) immediately to the left of it.

Heading upstream (west) through the cave brings you to 'Fleet Street' (19), the clearly marked 'Dispute Chimney' (14), and the overhung 'Into the Void' (22). Continuing west through the next cave brings you to the end of this ledge, with the second pitch of 'Annelid Crack' (11) to your left, and the mixed crack climbing of 'Purple Maze' (15) just after the end of the ledge. At this point now you are also almost directly beneath Tunnel View 'Lookout'.

Heading back downstream to where you came up the 'Gully' and beyond, you will pass by 'Puddin Puller' (18) in an obvious square-corner, with 'Paradise' (17), 'Jerks in Heaven' (19) and 'East of Eden' (19) next to it. At this point the elevated section ends, and you can follow another path back down to the creek.

Continuing east along the edge of the creek you arive at the imposing South-Eastern wall, with the roof-crack Wokkers Roof (24) about 50 metres above. The climbing wall ends another hundred metres downstream, almost directly opposite where the train emerges from the tunnel on the clifftops opposite you.

Approach:© (PThomson)

Heading west from Sydney along the Great Western 'Highway', turn left onto Ross Street in Glenbrook. Follow it around through the main street of Glenbrook, then turn right onto Euroka Rd, and then left onto Bruce Rd. Follow Bruce Rd until you arrive at the entrance to Glenbrook National Park.

Park up near the old Information Center (you don't need to pay for park entry if you park here), and follow the trail from the South-Eastern corner of the carpark, marked as leading to 'Glenbrook Gorge'.

Follow the track downwards for about 5 minutes until you reach the creek. Follow the creek east for a few minutes (the North-Western climbing area is up the hill to your left, here) until you find a safe place to cross to the southern side. After crossing continue east along the river for another five minutes and you should see 'Annelid Crack' (sometimes called Kippax crack) on the wall to your right.

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Cosmo's Tasmanian Devilry FA: N Smith, R McMahon, T Williams, 2000	19	Trad 10m
2		Artist's Crack FA: W Moon, P Chalkley, 2000	17	Trad 10m
3		Inspiration Crack FA: W Moon, P Chalkley, 2000	13	Trad 10m
4		Controversy Corner FA: F Moon, B Cameron, 2000	18 R	Trad 12m
5		Tungsten Tips FA: W Moon, B Cameron, 2000	22	Trad 12m
6		Tas 26 FA: B Cameron, N Smith, 2000	21	Sport 12m
7		Lady Killer Marked climb in a small cave. FA: S Chambers, P Mende, 1979	21	Trad 10m
8		Adrenalin Deficiency FA: W Moon, 2000	19	Trad 17m
9		One Perfect Day FA: B Cameron, 2000	17 R	Trad 12m
10		The Toxic Avenger FA: R Le Breton, M Klien, C Bennett, 2000	21 R	Sport 17m
11		Hang Five	16	Trad 12m
12		Flying Pickets FA: T Williams, 2000	21	Trad 10m
13		New Sensations FA: R Le Breton, C Bennett, A Mason, 2000	16	Trad 25m
14		Mephisto FA: S Moon, B Cameron, 2000	22	Trad 12m
15		Last Grasp FA: T Williams, N Smith, R McMahon, 2000	18 R	Trad 10m
16		Powder Finger FA: B Cameron, W Moon, 2000	21 R	Trad 17m
17		Geriatric Gymnast FA: F Moon, B Cameron, 2000	20	Trad 17m
18		Pox FA: W Moon, J Smoothy, 2000	17	Trad 12m
19		Airstrike FA: S Moon, 2000	21 R	Trad 10m
20		Three Cans Later FA: W Moon, F Moon, B Cameron, 2000	16	Trad 12m
21		Synthax Error FA: P Matysek, T Williams, 2000	21	Trad 17m
22		I'd Rather be Cable Skiing FA: C Bennett, R Le Breton, M Hall, 2000	16	Sport 10m
23		Technical Torque FA: B Cameron, W Moon, F Moon, 2000	19 R	Trad 12m
24		Inconclusion FA: R McMahon, N Smith, T Williams, 2000	16	Trad 10m

1.1.5.1. South-Eastern Wall 16 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad

Description:© (PThomson)

Route descriptions can be found here: http://www.sydneyclimbing.com/xgo_glenbrook_gorge.html (Route Descriptions taken from 'Rockclimbs in the Lower Blue Mountains' (1994) by Harry Luxford and Bruce Cameron, and reproduced with permission by Peter Monks for Sydney Rockies.)

1.1.5.2. Main Wall 49 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Description:© (PThomson)

Route descriptions can be found here: http://www.sydneyclimbing.com/xgo_glenbrook_gorge.html (Route Descriptions taken from 'Rockclimbs in the Lower Blue Mountains' (1994) by Harry Luxford and Bruce Cameron, and reproduced with permission by Peter Monks for Sydney Rockies.)

1.1.5.3. Lower Cliffline 0 routes in Sector

1.1.5.4. Upper Cliffline 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad

Description:© (PThomson)

Route descriptions can be found here: http://www.sydneyclimbing.com/xgo_glenbrook_gorge.html (Route Descriptions taken from 'Rockclimbs in the Lower Blue Mountains' (1994) by Harry Luxford and Bruce Cameron, and reproduced with permission by Peter Monks for Sydney Rockies.)

1.1.5.5. North-Western Wall 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad

Description:© (PThomson)

Route descriptions can be found here: http://www.sydneyclimbing.com/xgo_glenbrook_gorge.html (Route Descriptions taken from 'Rockclimbs in the Lower Blue Mountains' (1994) by Harry Luxford and Bruce Cameron, and reproduced with permission by Peter Monks for Sydney Rockies.)

1.1.6. The Surgery 26 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.603859, -33.753065

Description:

A great long bouldering cave tucked down behind some houses in blaxland. Avoid like herpes after rain. All the problems have been renamed in a "Surgery" theme as the original names have been lost to time. Names and grades are welcome for the unnamed problems, I just haven't done them.

Approach:

From the lights on highway at blaxland (300m past the lappo) follow Coughlan Rd past Blaxland high school until you cross the train line. Take the first right and go straight onto the pebblecrete drive down behind the houses. Park at the end of the straight just before the road starts heading back up the hill.

Descent Notes:

From the car walk straight down through the scrub crossing the fire road till you hit the start of the cliff line (100m), follow along the BASE of the cliff left 80m and your there.

History:

No history yet, has been climbed at for a long time. Any history is very welcome.

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		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Jack-knife Start from the big jug. Out and up. Committing.	V4	Boulder
2		Gingivectomy Long undercling traverse. Some rumors of this traverse being grade 25.		Boulder
3		Nephrectomy Start matched on the undercling. Big moves and Big fun	V3	Boulder
4		Photocoagulator Start at the back of the cave.	V4	Boulder		Paul Thomson 10 weeks ago Nooooo... Fell off trying to match on the last hold. Felt really good today, just couldn't quite ... Paul Thomson 11 weeks ago Really good. Couldn't link it but did every move. Spent most of my time destroying my knees to co...
5		Prosthesis Chipped.		Boulder
6		Oxycel Same Start as Go Go Gadget but follows the left edge of the cave to finish on the black jugs.	V2	Boulder		Jason Nguyen 7 months ago Flashed it, not so different from Go-Go Gadget, just a different finish. Nice big move to a jug r...
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		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
7		Go Go Gadget Start in the rad underslot, big moves to a high finish	V2	Boulder		Paul Thomson 10 weeks ago Repeat. Took a few shots before I would commit to the last move (water was running over the best ... Paul Thomson 11 weeks ago Repeat. Good moves, made more challenging by crazy spooginess. Enjoyable.
8		The Nurse Double side-pull start then up via crimps and slopes to the rail jug. A great problem and tricky until up figure out the beta.	V3	Boulder		Evan Freame 10 weeks ago do you match on the final rail to finish this problem? if not ticked after a few shots, if yes i ... Jason Nguyen 11 weeks ago Been a while since I've repeated this, but got it first go today, yay!
9		Doctor Same start as Necrosis then hard move into The Nurse to finish at the jug rail.	V5	Boulder
10		Necrosis Start at double undercling then up via nice crimps to jug, direct start V1	V2	Boulder		Paul Thomson 10 weeks ago Still can't stick that last move. Conditions didn't help, but regardless I find that move nails f... Evan Freame 10 weeks ago felt very hard
11		Botox Start on jug right of the flake then undercling/side pull the the flake to finish on orange horn.	V1	Boulder		Paul Thomson 10 weeks ago Repeat. Two laps today. Went easily this time. Paul Thomson 11 weeks ago An embarassing number of attempts before I got this. Okay bouldering, nothing great. Probably not...
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		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
12		Rocky-Davis Start match on the undercling up via slopes and crimps to the camps ledge then big moves to high jug pocket.	V2	Boulder		Jason Nguyen 9 months ago A jug has broken off, but has not affected the climb majorly as the edge has plenty of good holds...
13		Can you campus. Simple campus from left to right	V0	Boulder		Jason Nguyen 10 months ago simple, easy warm-up along the edge Paul Thomson 10 months ago A bit of easy railing. I also did the P15 finish up to the higher pocket above.
14		Roof Pocket Start on the X jug rail above the ferns, traverse the roof until the campus ledge then finsh up P13	V3	Boulder		Paul Thomson 11 weeks ago Couldn't quite link it all, though more due to fear of the last move in todays conditions than an...
15		P15 slopey		Boulder
16		Hope A fun campus problem, start with a small pocket and crimp, move right to finger jug, left hand to small crimp above then swing right to a good incut high edge, match.	V4	Boulder		Ben Jenga 6 months ago A great campus problem, the key is moving with your swing.
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		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
17		Say aaaaaaaah Start on the big jug up to another jug pocket with glue on it then big moves up and right via crimps. Keep trucking right past another jug pocket to finish as teflon.	V4	Boulder		Ben Jenga 6 months ago I have been looking at this problem for years and I finally felt strong enough to send it.
18		Teflon Crag classic. Start in the back of the cave, big moves on big holds. Finish on the high big sloper.	V2	Boulder		Paul Thomson 10 weeks ago Repeat. Glad to get this one today with the hideous conditions. The last two moves are what make ... Paul Thomson 11 weeks ago Repeat. No tickage today, couldn't campus the final move due to conditions. Very good climbing.
19		Mosquito clamps		Boulder
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		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
20		Anti-anxiety Arete HIGH.. This problem is 6m+ Has top rope anchors.		Boulder
21		Sandy Candy Scary ground up high ball, left hand on the arete. Has top rope anchors. FFA: Ben Jenga, 2012	V2	Boulder 5m		Ben Jenga 9 months ago After I removed the big loose block it was time to send, ground up style. A good stance half way ...
22		Excision Got better holds then the right hand side. Has top rope anchors.	V1	Boulder 4m		Paul Thomson 11 weeks ago Juggier than the other arete, but the holds are more crumbly. Despite bigger holds and footers, I...
23		The Hyperhidrosis Problem Straight up the middle of the face to top-out mantle. Use of either arete is "out". Thin and balancy. Has been climbed to 1m from the top.		Boulder Project 6m		Paul Thomson 11 weeks ago Attempting to free this line. Thin, balancy, a bit grimy... Have climbed to within 1m of the topo...
24		Gastroplasty Harder of the two sides. Has top rope anchors.	V1	Boulder 4m		Paul Thomson 11 weeks ago Repeat. A bit scary but good fun. Trust in the small, sandy feet are the key. Paul Thomson 10 months ago Fun, easy slabbing with a bit of a highball feel, and surprisingly good rock.
25		Anaphalaxis and the Angry Ant Attack The ants are gone... :(	V1	Boulder		Paul Thomson 11 weeks ago Repeat. 2 laps today to teach OTHERS the STYLISH way of climbing this one. My pet ants seem to be... Jason Nguyen 11 weeks ago 4th times the charm.. right? Commitment issues 1 metre (if that) above the pad, nice one jason :P...
26		Black Trash Traverse Long block traverse from right to left. Start in small pockets on the top edge and traverse to the far left edge of the block FFA: Ben JengA, 2012	V1	Boulder		Paul Thomson 11 weeks ago Repeat. Pretty easy. Fun. Trust the feet. Paul Thomson 10 months ago Easy, fun, slapping along a vaguely ascending arete.

1.1.7. Yellowrock 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

Easy access and solid bolts over a range of climbs in a condensed area. Plenty of untapped potential.

Description:

Drive to the end of Yellowrock road. Park, cliffs start at the parking lot.

Access Issues:

Park at the end of Yellowrock road.

Approach:

Look around.

1.1.8. Birdwood Gully 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,Top Rope

Long/Lat: 150.562793, -33.697144

Description:

Park on Boland avenue and head into birdwood gully. Take a right at the main trail. About 300 meters you will find the cave. You cant miss it.

1.1.8.1. The Cave 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Sport

Description:

The big cave.

1.1.9. Blue Gum Swamp 0 routes in Area

Description:

Blue Gum Swamp runs along the river at the bottom of Shaws Ridge. The two trails connect and provide the local schools with their cross country trails. Multiple caves and areas exist on the wall between the two trails. Some areas are stand alone and easier to access from Blue Gum Swamp Trail. Others are in the main ridge line and are more easily accessed from Shaws Ridge Trail. As always with the lower mountains, beware the loose rock, and clean all routes thoroughly.

Approach:

Goto Winmalee shopping center, continue to the end of White Cross road and park at Blue Gum Swamp and Shaws Ridge parking lot. Head down main trail and take left towards Blue Gum Swamp. Many sectors along right hand side of trail.

History:

Shaws ridge trail is believed to have been created sometime in the 1880s. It is likely that the area has been visited by climbers and the like for some time, although there are no documented climbs. The area began to see development by the local Winmalee crews around 2010. Efforts by the Matt and Bryson Klein and the young Winmalee bouldering set in 2012/13 have seen some first ascents getting made.

1.1.9.1. Cross Country 0 routes in Sector

Description:

A boulder on the side of the road, a cave set back about 8 meters, and a wall off to the right side of the cave.

Approach:

Obvious area directly on the side of the trail about six hundred meters past the gate on the Blue Gum Swamp trail.

Descent Notes:

Obvious area, super easy access.

History:

Saw some cleaning by ZPAB crew in 2010. No serious efforts until Matt Klein and company re-discovered and put in some excellent lines in 2012/13.

1.1.10. Zed Dimension 59 routes in Crag

7231465

1 Training Yards, 2 Trespassers Domain, 3 Sculpture Garden, 4 Sky Block, 5 El Dorado, 6 Supranatural, 7 School Dayz

Summary:

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.632670, -33.682069

Unique Features And Strengths:

High density boulder crag, with some potential for routes. Located in the lower mountains, making it easy access for anyone short on time.

Description:

This crag is located off Shakespear Drive in Winmalee. It is spread over several sectors which are between 200 and 500 meters apart. There are around 40 boulder problems established and around another 300 to be 'csent.

Access Issues:

From hawkesbury road turn into high school drive, left on endeavour drive, right on newton way, and a left or right onto Shakespear drive which is a loop. At the opposite end of the loop is a dirt road, park and walk.

Ethic:

Much of the rock is marginal, so the need to clean is essential. Please try to maintain 'scent routes, but clean or "modify" new routes as required. The Sculture Garden has several chipped routes; with more to go in where boulders are otherwise unclimbable. Several boulders have horrible landings, so be wary.

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1.1.10.1. Training Yards 17 routes in Sector

Summary:

Long/Lat: 150.617715, -33.680356

Description:

This sector consists of 6 main boulders with about 10 minor boulders. The pick of the sector and maybe the whole area is Saturns Forge.

Approach:

From the dirt track entrance on Shakespeare drive, head about 20 meters in and then follow the cairns down a right hand track. Cairns lead the way to the different boulders.

1.1.10.2. Trespassers Domain 0 routes in Sector

Description:

Sector is within the boundaries of the water treatment plant. Some decent boulders; lots of cleaning required.

1.1.10.3. Sculpture Garden 29 routes in Sector

Summary:

Long/Lat: 150.622343, -33.680198

Description:

A high density sector with a good mix of steep, slab, and vertical. Also contains a number of chipped problems on otherwise unclimbable sections...hence the name.

Approach:

From the dirt entry on Shakespeare drive, follow the path to the power lines, cross under the power lines and turn left to parallel the fence of the water treatment plant, around 300 meters in is a large slab of rock, the boulders are along the down hill side of this slab.

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1.1.10.4. Sky Block 0 routes in Boulder

Description:

An epic roof with a tender top out! Five or so lines through the roof lead onto a ten foot top out through sloping scoops.

Approach:

Pass through the sculpture garden staying on top of the rock. Past Candy Cane Arete there are cairns pointing the way. A little bush bash will bring you to some low roofs and leads down to a 8 foot tall roof with impressive scoops on the top.

History:

First discovered 2010, cleaned 2012, no 'scends yet.

1.1.10.5. El Dorado 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 150.625094, -33.683969

Description:

Lost Crag of GOLD! Across the gully from the Sculpture Garden, this area has HUGE potential! There are five cave sectors found so far! With a thirty meter long wave wall with great landings...very nice!

1.1.10.6. Supranatural 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

Long/Lat: 150.628837, -33.681492

Description:

A whole nother level. A ton of unscent problems. The Quantum Caves is possibly the best of the zone.

Approach:

Turn through hole in gate before the powerlines. Follow the dirt road past two turnoffs. Pass through the fence at the other side and continue along for another 150 meters. 50 meters after dog leg, take a right at the cairn. A large rock slab will let you know you have arrived.

1.1.10.7. School Dayz 0 routes in Sector

Description:

Area behind the Winmalee high school.

1.1.10.8. Opening Moves 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.1.10.9. Verticality 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.1.11. BYU 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.605248, -33.666041

Description:

Boulders off edge of Ridge View Close.

1.1.11.1. El Crisol del Enfuerzo 1 route in Sector

Summary:

Description:

Cave with fire pit on left side, iron stone pockets and a solid fold leading to a stellar top out.

1.2. Kings Tableland 18 routes in Crag

12

1 Kedumba Pass, 2 The Emu

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.396260, -33.818494

1.2.1. Kedumba Pass 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 150.378507, -33.781292

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Softly Softly	11	Unknown 35m
2		Tip Toe	11	Unknown 35m
3		Workshop Wall	8	Unknown 35m
4		Pinnochio	13	Unknown 40m
5		Toymaker	11	Unknown 40m
6		Straight Up	11	Unknown 40m
7		Immediately Left	8	Unknown 40m
8		Bollard	8	Unknown 40m
9		Gully and Wall	7	Unknown 50m
10		Outa Balance	17	Unknown 70m		Jim Croft 9 years ago hard start, finished up crux of bib
11		Bib	14	Unknown 70m		Jim Croft 9 years ago combined with outa balance
12		Bub	15	Unknown 70m
13		Pippin	13	Unknown 50m

1.2.2. The Emu 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 150.387548, -33.803275

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		The Emu Pitch 8 is grade 17. Pitch 6 is 16. Not 15 and 14 as per Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains guide. FA: John Ewbank, Greg Mortimer, Lucas Trihey,	16	Unknown 270m		Rod Smith 6 years ago Pitch 8 is grade 17. Pitch 6 is 16 and run-out. Led pitches 1,3,4,6,8,10. With Gus. Tony Williams 16 years ago Watch out for the bee hive at the top of the descent!
2		Enu Crack	22	Unknown 250m
3		The Dreaming	14	Unknown 220m
4		The King and I	12	Unknown 220m
5		Gondwana	16	Unknown 240m

1.3. Leura 165 routes in Crag

342

2 Sublime Point, 3 Mt Hay, 4 The Fortress

Summary:

Sport,? and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.370908, -33.664701

1.3.1. Lockleys Pylon 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Simple	11	Unknown 50m
2		Pure	8	Unknown 40m
3		Black Bowler Derby	11	Unknown 130m
4		Ilych	16	Unknown 110m		Mike Patterson 4 years ago Classic first pitch, then choss
5		Black Stovepipe Trousers	9	Unknown 110m
6		Sophisticated Synthetics	14	Unknown 110m
7		The Pixie FA: Warrick William, Paul Mara,	13	Unknown 110m		Damien Haines 5 years ago Great Climb. Dirty 3rd pitch. Could be straightened from 1st belay to top of climb making it on... Damien Haines 5 years ago Great Climb. Dirty third pitch. In need of a direct finish, then could be done in two pitches.
8		Peachy Keen	13	Unknown 85m
9		Freezing Point FA: Bruce Cameron, Hayden Brotchie,	12	Unknown 80m
10		Piecemeal	12	Unknown 110m
11		Berrington corner	15	Unknown 50m
12		The Hallelulia climb	13	Unknown 120m

1.3.2. Sublime Point 121 routes in Crag

5134

1 East Face, 3 Shady Wall, 4 Andy's Area, 5 Main Area

Summary:

Sport,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.340504, -33.732623

Description:© (Stu)

Sublime Point is a large 200m high west facing two tiered cliff perched on the end of a finger of rock south of 'Leura'. Most people visit to climb the popular easy multi-pitch 'Sweet Dreams' (14), but there is plenty of other interesting routes in the area, from old school vegetated girdles to bolted single pitch sport routes. Many of the older routes haven't had a great deal of recent traffic so take care - and bring the pruning shears. It's easy to polish off a few single pitch routes on the walk-in to doing 'Sweet Dreams' or any of the other multi-pitch routes. There are even some fifty year old aid routes begging for a free ascent.

If adventure climbing isn't your thing then consider Bentrovarto Wall, a very impressive 90m high slightly overhung orange face that contains several sustained routes up to three pitches long. The recent rush of new sport routes on Bentrovarto Wall, and further right in the 'Thumbs Up' area and beyond, have made the right side of the 'Sublime Point' 'Main Area' a good quality walk-in, walk-out crag. Unless you're a latte sipping softy, the walk out is not that bad when you're only carrying a sport rack!

Useful Info: All 'Sublime Point' crags are in a National Park - DOGS ARE NOT ALLOWED. Please do not further endanger climbing access and damage climbers' relationships with the land managers - don't bring your dog to these crags.

If it's hot and you're chasing shade, the 'Main Area' has shade until about noon, the 'Cool Wall' has shade pretty much all day, and last you can head to the 'East Face' which is shady from about noon. If it's cold and you want to be in the sun, hit the 'East Face' early and the 'Main Area' in the afternoon.

Approach:© (Stu)

This area is 13km closer to Sydney than the more popular Bluies crags around Blackheath! From the town of 'Leura' follow signs towards Fairmont Resort until you hit 'Sublime Point' Rd. Follow this south for a few kilometers to end of road and carpark. 'Access' for each sub-area is described on the respective pages (links below).

Ethic:© (Stu)

Traditional and Mixed climbing.

History:© (Stu)

Sublime Point was opened up to climbing by the Rhum Du Climbing Group in 1958 with climbs created at irregular intervals for a couple of years. The cliff then lay dormant, forgotten and wasted for several years, until a burst of energy by the S.R.C. between '62 & '65. (J.E. Rockclimbs in the Blue Mountains, '67.)

1.3.2.1. East Face 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.340192, -33.736187

Description:© (nmonteith)

Large overhung orange wall facing Kings Tableland with easy 5 minute access. All routes require rapping into hanging belays and then climbing out. The super exposed position high above the jungle hundreds of metres below make for a very memorable afternoon out! Shade after midday and nice cool breezes.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From 'Sublime Point' car-park walk along fence of house 142 'Sublime Point' Road (left side of carpark) until it ends after 50m at wooden wall. Walk along wall for 15m (keep quiet so as not to piss of the people in the house above) then head straight downhill on faint track. This track enters the bush at a couple of gnarled banksai trees. Follow track steeply downhill for 80m on faint ridge past a few large tree stumps with a small right turn until it ends at top of small cliffline. Turn right and head down mossy ferny steep gully then go left under small cliffline. 20m along under this cliff turn right and go straight downhill aiming for the edge of the cliff just below. There are two rocky points - the Northern (left one facing out) is the one to find. This has an obvious rap chain on the top and a yellow fixed rope tied around a tree. The other ledge 15m further south (above Subliminal) only has two rings at the top. It's only 5 minutes from the car to the top of the cliff!

1.3.2.2. Micro Area 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.3.2.3. Shady Wall 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Top Rope,Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.338504, -33.737887

Description:

A very shady south facing wall with several mystery routes. They are perfect for an afternoon crank on the way out after the main wall gets in the sun. Rock is really good quality but top is a little mossy. Shade after 11am. Some fuck wits have been shitting in the cave on the right side of this crag - desist please! Located halfway down the descent to the main wall of Sublime Point. Follow track down past the squeeze slot, then down the fixed rope. At the bottom of these turn left to find base of wall with lots of bolts.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Located halfway down the descent to the main wall of 'Sublime Point'. Follow track down past the squeeze slot, then down the fixed rope. At the bottom of these turn left to find base of wall with lots of shiny bolts. Routes are listed from left to right.

1.3.2.4. Andy's Area 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.337663, -33.738343

Unique Features And Strengths:

All routes are VERY well protected and face south west, so are in the shade until mid afternoon. So possible to do a few here on the walk out when the main area is in the sun.

Description:

Short and steep on great orange rock

Access Issues:

At the bottom of descent turn left and follow the cains for about 60m to this great little wall.

1.3.2.5. Main Area 96 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.337527, -33.735789

Approach:© (Stu)

This area is 12km closer to Sydney than the more popular Blueys crags around Blackheath! From the town of 'Leura' follow signs towards Fairmont Resort until you hit 'Sublime Point' Rd. Follow this south for a few kilometers to end of road and carpark. Walk down tourist track for 100m or so until you reach the bridge. Just before the bridge drop down and left to enter gully and surf down the pine needles to base of small cliff (Lookout Micro Area). Walk right under this cliff for 20m then turn left down track past gnarled banksia tree. Down ridge a bit, scramble down sketchy corner on right and keep following exposed track to magic hole (squirm down it!). Keep going steeply down past some fixed ropes - at the bottom of these on the left is The 'Cool Wall'. For the 'Main Area' continue down easier but steep ridge, to cut back right (north) along the base of the cliffline. (There is still another lower cliffline below you). To get to 'Sweet Dreams', walk north along the base of this cliff following a well trodden track for several hundred metres, passing several walls. You will reach the "cable of death" traverse - yes, you need to go across here and 'Sweet Dreams' is just a few more metres along.

Rather than walking down, it is possible to rap in from above 'Ben Trovato' Wall or 'Sweet Dreams' Wall, but it's hard to find where to scramble down from above and you either need to fix a 100m rope or make multiple 50m abseils on double ropes. This is probably too scary, exposed and committing for most 'Sweet Dreams' aspirants.

To exit any of the multi-pitch routes walk up hill until you hit small tourist path. Turn right then follow the track back to carpark (5 minutes).

1.3.2.6. Subjacent 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.3.2.7. Arunga 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.3.3. Mt Hay 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.407122, -33.618932

1.3.4. The Fortress 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Trad

Long/Lat: 150.347729, -33.643496

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Fortress Crack	21	Unknown 200m		Thomas Schattovits done twice, gets better each time
2		Butt Crack	10	Unknown 150m
3		Internal Hatred	15	Unknown 160m
4		Trouser Snake FA: Angie Bishop, Hayden Brotchie, 2005	14	Unknown 85m		Mike Patterson 8 years ago nice moves, variable rock
5		Pseudechis Wall FA: Hayden Brotchie, Angie Bishop, 2005	12	Unknown 120m
6		Grand Central Route FA: B Allen, I Logan,	12	Unknown 210m
7		The Great Rum Beer Chimney The filthy vegetated gully/chimney system to the climber's right of Tom Thumb.	8	Trad 200m		Batey 13 days ago Followed Alex and Quentin up the last 60m to escape TT. Classic Choimney with loose rocks slime a... Quentin Twigg 9 days ago Just did the top 60m as escape off Tom Thumb.
8		Trogan Horse	14	Unknown 200m
9		Old Spiteful FA: T Batty, B Allen,	15	Unknown 300m
10		Self Abuse	15	Unknown 150m
11		The Wind Cries Mary Mostly bolted (carrots) route that climbs first pitch of Tom Thumb before heading off right on wall. Refer to Sydney Rockies site for most up to date route info. Be aware that this is a new route and there is a lot of hold breakage still to go. Steep face climbing, good rock and reasonable pro. Start: rap as for 'Tom Thumb' 18m (8) Up 'Tom Thumb' P1, onto block at 10m and up right to belay. Then walk R into gully and up 10m 45m (18) Up block and layback then R up wall past bolts and crack, then R to steep wall and bolts and up slab past cams and hard mantel, left top 3BB in break. 35m (19) Up and slightly R past bolts and cams, then left inot corner (good thin break at top) up steep wall (BR) and runout up to slab. Cam belay in letter box 3m below cave. 30m (18) Rightwards 12.30 o'clock past bolts then leftwards up corner and easy arête to DBB on big ledge. Walk left 20m to another DBB. 50m (18) Left past bolt and trend left 11.30, left of bush and up line leading into orange corner past average cams and poor sling. The corner is fused and blank, it turns out, and head onto jugs on the right arête to find a bolt and sling runners. Then up slab and scramble up ledges and corner to top. Walk left to hit track. FA: mikl law, Brian Simonds, 2011	19 to 20	Trad 180m		Rod Smith 1 years ago Scary crumbly. Climbing is good fun, but the variable rock quality made it a tense journey. Almos...
12		Landing Gear Down	16	Trad 140m		Stu Dobbie 7 months ago Skipped first pitch. Second pitch start is good, but deteriorates rapidly amongst much fragilenes...
13		Tom Thumb 18m (8) Up a few metres to bolt (used more to show direction than for protection). Up to vertical crack for pro and up bulbous wall (another bolt on right) to DBB at top of buttress. Walk up and right 8 metres to start of next pitch. DBB on wall. 40m (12) Left of belay grunt onto wall. Natural pro in crack or horizontal breaks up higher. Clip bolt on left. Then move diagonally right to small friend (#0) in horizontal crack and further rightwards on easy stuff to bolt (clip with sling to reduce drag). Up left clipping two bolts, steep tricky move (easiest if you move left). Easy 10m ramble with two bolts to DBB. Best to give your second a tight rope when they start the pitch. 16m (9) Bolt on right shows the way, then up crack on left to belay. (Bolt and #½ friend.) 45m (8) From right of the belay move up a few metres, then traverse left past bolt runner to arête/ridge. Up ridge 30m past 4 bolts. Walk across rightwards to bolt on little buttress. Over this and walk 10m+ (no bolt protection) and scramble through small bushes up easy crack into cave to DBB. 21m (12) From belay start to the right. Up wall trending left past 4 bolts. Climb onto large blocks at top. They seem OK. And traverse right passing bolt that protects the second to DBB. 26m (8) Clip bolt on right of belay. Stand on rock thing and up. Follow ridge with a few bolts to top. DBB. FA: Hayden Brotchie and Jenny Bradford,	13	Trad 150m		Batey 13 days ago Followed Alex and Quent1n for an easy day with an interesting finish up The Great Rum Beer Chimne... Quentin Twigg 9 days ago Led P1 & P3 with Alex and Batey. Easy ramble, fun day out
14		Eeyore's Alternate FA: Hayden Brotchie and Angie Bishop,	15	Unknown 55m
15		Black Snake Moan	22	Unknown 200m
16		Voyteks Corner	24	Unknown 150m

1.3.5. Leura Fitness Center 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Boulder

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Kitty	V5	Boulder		David O'Donnell 6 years ago KItty is gay
2		J_Lo's insane pumpfest link up	V5	Boulder
3		DOD's weak ass variant of J_Lo's insane pumpfest link up	V3	Boulder		David O'Donnell 6 years ago pick of the crag!
4		spEEd	V4	Boulder
5		The Crux of SuperCal	V4	Boulder		David O'Donnell 6 years ago crimp like a mother
6		DYNO DUUUUUUDE!!!!!	V3	Boulder		David O'Donnell 6 years ago get clearance from NASA to launch on this one!

1.3.6. East Face 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Sport

Description:

From Sublime Point car-park walk along fence of house 142 Sublime Point Road (right side of carpark) until it ends after 50m (at wooden wall). Walk along wall for 15m then head straight downhill on faint track. This track enters the bush at a couple of gnarled banksai trees. Follow track steeply downhill for 80m on faint ridge past a few large tree stumps until it ends at top of small cliffline. Turn right and head down mossy ferny steep gully then go left under small cliffline. 20m along under this cliff turn right and go straight downhill aiming for the edge of the cliff just below. Look for ringbolts just over the edge on a slab. It's only 5 minutes from the car to the top of the cliff!

1.4. Katoomba Area 522 routes in Crag

1189107243156

1 The Three Sisters, 2 Echo Point, 3 Dogface, 4 Narrow Neck, 5 Diamond Falls, 6 Red Ledge Pass, 7 Rhum Dhu, 8 Nellies Glen, 9 Elphinstone, 10 Pulpit Hill, 11 The Egg

Summary:

Sport,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.294779, -33.722661

1.4.1. The Three Sisters 19 routes in Crag

5134

1 Honeymoon Point, 3 East Face, 4 Southern Routes, 5 Halfway Ledge

Summary:

?,Aid and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.314819, -33.736191

1.4.1.1. Honeymoon Point 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

?,Aid

Long/Lat: 150.314933, -33.735202

1.4.1.2. Eastern Block 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

?,Sport

1.4.1.3. East Face 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

?,Aid

Long/Lat: 150.315319, -33.735992

1.4.1.4. Southern Routes 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

?,Trad

Long/Lat: 150.314478, -33.736410

1.4.1.5. Halfway Ledge 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.314224, -33.734849

1.4.2. Echo Point 39 routes in Crag

12

1 Echo Point Walls, 2 Malaita Wall

Summary:

?,Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.305977, -33.731131

1.4.2.1. Echo Point Walls 28 routes in Cliff

Summary:

?,Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.308681, -33.731123

1.4.2.2. Malaita Wall 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.299765, -33.732393

1.4.3. Dogface 26 routes in Crag

3

3 Main Wall

Summary:

Aid,Trad and ?

Long/Lat: 150.295655, -33.732123

Description:© (Macciza)

It used to be called DogFace -then it fell down in the '30s. Quality choss in a class of it's own. Don't believe everything you hear, unless they have been there - remember, this is the stuff that didn't fall down in the last landslide, so it's gotta be pretty good .. . doesn't it ? ?.

Approach:© (Macciza)

Below Cyclorama Point, Cliff Drive, Sth Kat.

1.4.3.1. Lower Wall 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Aid

1.4.3.2. Left Wall 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,? and Aid

1.4.3.3. Main Wall 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Aid,Trad

Long/Lat: 150.295620, -33.732203

Description:© (Macciza)

The Landlide Face

Routes listed right to left.

Start are mostly marked.

1.4.3.4. Gorgo Wall 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Aid

1.4.3.5. Right Wall 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Aid

1.4.3.6. The Citadel 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Aid

Description:© (Macciza)

First landslide reached when walking in to The Landslide.

Approach:© (Macciza)

Head down Furbers Steps, near Scenic Railway then right along Landslide track.

1.4.4. Narrow Neck 204 routes in Crag

3145

1 Pumping Station Track, 3 Right Side, 4 Left Side, 5 Castle Head/Ruined Castle Ridge

Summary:

Trad,Aid and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.284414, -33.731330

Description:© (mjw)

Probably the oldest climbing area in the Bluey's. A little bit forgotten about these days but still very worthwhile. Take a lot of care with the fixed protection. Hopefully at some point in the future there will be funds available to 'renew' this area.

Approach:© (mjw)

On the first 'Narrow Neck'. Easily accesable via public transport and a short walk. Find Cliff Drive, turn off this into Glenraphael Drive (as for 'Diamond Falls' and Redledge Pass, take this for approximately 1km to a small parking area. The crag is accessed down a gated fire trail on the right side of the road. The southern end of the crag can be accessed by walking a little further to where the fence comes into contact with the road. The most popular access point is via the fire trail and pumping station down through Dixon's Ladders. Note: these ladders were partially removed by the waterboard, they have been reinstated at various times by climbers but may not actually reach the ground when you get there! A short hand over hand or abseil may be required.

The climbs are split into the area South of the ladders and the area North of the ladders.

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Life After Big Glassy Easily up to top of block to FH on the undercut wall to the left. Traverse left to a ring bolt then up the arete past another ring on the left (can confirm this will hold a fall...) to the crux just after you clip the final ring. From here easily up the arete to where it meets Tal, top out as for Tal. A 0.4 Camalot, and a set of nuts, as well as a couple of bolt plates are a must for the climbing after the last ring. Don't forget you need a trad belay on top: 0.5, #3 Camalots and a few nuts will do nicely. Start: Start at the block 6 or 8m left of Toll, at the ugly scratched X (not made by FA party). FA: Hugh Ward, James Castrission, Luke Merrett, 2009	20	Trad 50m
2		Gypsy Ritalin Up onto ledge then right and up arete and wall to lower off under roof Start: As for heart Attack FA: Mikl, 2011	22	Sport 18m , 11

1.4.4.1. Pumping Station Track 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Sport and ?

Long/Lat: 150.287524, -33.729738

1.4.4.2. Main Bivouac Ledge 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Aid,Trad

1.4.4.3. Right Side 69 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Aid and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.288498, -33.727277

Description:© (mjw)

The area to the right of the ladder descent. The routes listed LEFT to RIGHT starting at the far end of the crag.

1.4.4.4. Left Side 114 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Aid and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.282489, -33.733079

1.4.4.5. Castle Head/Ruined Castle Ridge 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.287862, -33.756649

1.4.5. Diamond Falls 77 routes in Crag

123

1 Unity Area, 2 Mr Wall, 3 Frog Buttress

Summary:

Sport,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.277643, -33.739577

Description:© (Ashy)

Introduction -

'Diamond Falls' is located on the western side of 'Narrow Neck' Plateau near Katoomba. A mixture of climbing styles are catered for though the areas popularity is definitely due to the hard sports climbing available. At present 3 sectors have been developed:

Sector 1 - 'Left Side' 'Access' Ledge: There are a number of relatively easy multi-pitch climbs requiring mixed gear on the walls above the walking track. These climbs are rarely repeated, route descriptions are vague and any fixed gear should be regarded as questionable. There are also a few moderately graded sports routes around 'Uncooth Youth' and 'Diamond Jack' and given the development of late these areas are becoming a worth while destination in there own right, no longer just a quick warm up on the way to 'Mr Wall'.

Sector 2 - Mr Wall: This wall is one of the jewels in the crown of Blue Mountains sports climbing and contains possibly the highest concentration of hard sports routes in 'Australia'. There is a fantastic selection of steep climbs ranging in grade from 26 through to 33 on immaculate rock.

Sector 3 - Frog Buttress: This is a small buttress 200m past 'Mr Wall' that contains a couple of sports climbs.

Conditions -

The sun hits the crag around 2PM.

The crag also catches the wind and can get very cold so take some warm clothes.

Approach:© (Ashy)

Access -

From Katoomba head down Katoomba St towards 'Echo Point' and turn right into Cliff Dr and follow the 'Scenic Drive 5' signs. Just past the Landslide 'Lookout', turn left onto the dirt road Glenraphael Dr which heads out along the 'Narrow Neck' Plateau. Follow this for a couple of Kms until the road is blocked by a locked gate. If your driving from Blackheath there is an alternate approach via 'Narrow Neck' Rd. (see map below).

There are two possible approaches to the crags. The first simply follows a steep track through the scrub to the start of the access ledge. All crags can be approached this way. The second involves following a track to the top of 'Mr Wall' and then rapping in.

Approach 1: From the gate walk back along the road for 50m to a sandy track on the western side. Initially there are a few tracks that crisscross one another but after about a minute you should be on an obvious track heading out and down onto a peninsula. The track then continues steeply down the gully and after 10-15 minutes reaches the base of the upper cliff line. Turn left and follow the access ledge track for another 5-10 minutes to reach 'Mr Wall'. 'Frog Buttress' is another 5-10 minutes walk further on past 'Mr Wall'.

Approach 2: From the gate follow a vague track heading west and down through the scrub. After a bit of scrambling you should arrive at the rap point above 'Mr Wall'.

1.4.5.1. Unity Area 30 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport,Trad and ?

Long/Lat: 150.278128, -33.738131

1.4.5.2. Mr Wall 43 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.277764, -33.740464

Description:© (Ashy)

Environmental Issue: Please do not leave quickdraws on routes. The walk in to Mr Wall takes 12 minutes if you're psyched, or 15-20 if you care about your knees.

In the past, for convenience, it has been a common practise for climbers to leave quick draws on routes for extended periods of time. Unfortunately 'Diamond Falls' is often buffeted by very strong winds and as a result this practice has led to significant rock scarring on several popular routes. Climbers are therefore urged to no longer continue this practise.

1.4.5.3. Frog Buttress 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.275514, -33.740749

Description:© (Ashy)

Frog Buttress is located on the opposite side of the waterfall amphitheatre from 'Mr Wall'. From 'Mr Wall' it is a 5 to 10 minute walk through thick and often wet bush. Even if you don't climb here it is worth the walk just for the scenery and to get a different view and perspective of the 'Diamond Falls' crags.

1.4.6. Red Ledge Pass 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.267350, -33.746489

Description:

Situated on the Narrow Neck Plateau. Redledge Pass is an historic aboriginal pass from the valley. Shale miners and farmers have been using it since the late 1800’s. It is in the Blue Mountains National Park

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Parakis The first route you come to after crossing the creek and traverseing the first ledge. Just left of an arete on grey rock FFA: N. Harrowell, 2003	18	Sport 20m
2		Yage On a bulging reddish wall with strange mud markings approximately 100m past Parakis. Reached by a small 'dyna-bolt' protected traverse. Clip and unclip as you go. Belayer can stay on the ground. The big chimney to the left was soloed -many times. FFA: M. Warren, 2003	21	Sport 20m
3		Andys 24 FFA: A. Richardson, 2003	24	Sport 12m
4		Katalyst Right of 2 routes up fixed rope at the end of a very narrow traverse ledge about another 100m on. this traverse was equipped with a fixed rope but it may not be here at present FFA: P. Sage, 2003	25	Sport 20m
5		Its Bakin Execellent boulder route with the crux close to the ground up katalyst, to 2 bolt then, head rightwards on u bolts FFA: A. Richardson, 2007	27	Sport 15m
6		Phill open project A small batman to beat the choss, then climb leftwards on reasonable rock to a small but obvious cave. from here the route begins and is fiesty!!! crimp and snatch your way up the awesome baked red rock to a no hands rest and another boulder problem, do this and its in the bag!! 20 meters right of its bakin at a scoop in the rock FA: P. Sage,	33	Sport 30m
7		Shooting Blanks Great climbing, no stopper crux. Start as for Phils project FFA: L. Cossey,	29	Sport 20m
8		Run Come Save Me An execellent route that offers consistantly difficult climbing inbetween large jugs!! mandatory climbing at grade 26 inbetween the top 4 bolts, cunliminating in an all out dyno at the 2nd to last move, cements the route's classical status guarentees an exciting crux. 20 meters right of phils project, at the base of the wall's obvious flake system. batman start FFA: V. Day, Z Vertrees, 2006	31	Sport 25m , 9
9		Brand New Second Hand As for heatseeker to the first crux above the obvious break, here break left and follow the slopers, pinches, crimps and jugs, oh and pockets!! up the awesome baked red wall, that only red ledge offers. FFA: V. Day, 2006	31	Sport 27m
10		HeatSeeker Rad rad route, up some of the best rock around, quality bouldering with jugs to seperate the difficulties. a sustained finish. A great toilet bowl feature, batman or climb the mud to the first bolt. FFA: G. Miller, 2006	32	Sport 23m
11		Zac's Project Hard hard hard, all the way, amny boulder problems with hard clips, classic really!! right of heat seeker, FA: Z. Vertrees,	35	Sport 25m
12		Blood Shot Batman to the first bolt, then boulder past 3 crux sections, involving burly powerful arm work!! enjoy! this is some of the finest steep rock in the blue mountains. start at small tree on the steep section before the cliff swings around the corner. FFA: V. Day, 2006	30	Sport 20m
13		Fuego Execellent steep climbing, with an awesomely body powerful crux, and all out dyno to finish it off! this route was bolted after work in summer and has some great memories attached to it! 5 meters right of bloodshot , around the corner. batman to the first bolt and go!! Back jump to clean FFA: E. Jerg, 2006	30	Sport 20m

1.4.7. Rhum Dhu 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Aid and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.287532, -33.717750

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Burgundy Buttress	15	Unknown 83m
2		Dry Sherry Pinnacle	11	Unknown 40m
3		Terrier 1	16	Unknown 100m
4		Barassa Pearl	13	Unknown 51m
5		Lager & Lime	13	Unknown 170m
6		Night Cap	13	Unknown 50m
7		IOU	16	Unknown 35m
8		Rhum Cognac	10	Unknown 60m
9		Gin and Tonic	6	Unknown 40m
10		Baby Sham	13	Unknown 60m
11		Cocktail Buttress	10	Unknown 63m
12		Whisky Gully	16	Unknown 49m
13		Peacock Gully	14	Unknown 83m
14		Triffid	15 M1	Aid 120m
15		Shandy	14	Unknown 99m		BJ Adams 1 years ago With Ali and Andrew
16		Dirty Rotten pig 3 pitches straight up on wall right of Shandy. P1-19,40m, P2-19,25m, P3-15, 30m, P4 climb out back to start grade 14, 20m FA: Ness, Mikl, Jody Powell,	19	Unknown 95m		lucky chance 13 weeks ago Full rope-stretcher on the 70 to rappel, so technically I didnt climb the first 5 metres, but to ... Nathan Merton 6 months ago Lead the 3rd pitch. Wonderful day, super windy
17		Tooth & Nail (Boars Head)	17	Unknown 70m
18		Green Salad Gully	7	Unknown
19		Whisky Chaser	12	Unknown
20		West End	10	Unknown 43m
21		Humbaba	15	Unknown 30m		David Barnes excellent, worth the walk in
22		Desperately Seeking Stephen	18	Unknown 45m		David Barnes Awesome!
23		Temperance Arete	8	Unknown 130m
24		Intemperance Arete	8	Unknown 83m
25		Bloody Mary LHS	12 M4	Aid 33m
26		Bloody Mary RHS	15 M6	Aid 47m
27		Tia Maria	15 M5	Aid 41m
28		Cul De Sac / Call to Zac Start as for Catastrophe Corner, to roof then traverse left under roof and follow line to top . . . FA: Ewbank 18 M4, FFA: Zac Vertrees, Macciza, 2012	31	Trad 30m
29		Catastrophe Corner Start at corner capped by triangular roof left of main waterfall. diagonally right to bolt and up to ledge, then corner system up to right side of roof. Follow corner/crack up to end then left on sloping shelf past bolt (old belay) and up groove to ledge past old threads and traverse off left. FA: Ewbank,18 M2, 1969 FFA: Macciza, Zac Vertrees, 2006	22	Mixed 30m , 2

1.4.8. Nellies Glen 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.286260, -33.710103

Approach:© (willmonks)

Location description in the old SRC guide is pretty woeful. The google map coords entered for this crag (click on "view map" below) are a guess and could be a km or more off! Anyone with better info, please contribute!

1.4.9. Elphinstone 55 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271652, -33.710816

Unique Features And Strengths:

High grades. High quality.

Description:

This crag will prove to be the citadel of hard climbing in the Mountains. Pitches are generally around 30-35m, uncharacteristically sustained and pumpy, on bullet proof rock.

The main wall, facing broadly south-east, receives sun in the summer till mid morning, and not at all during the winter. Dumbo Love sector faces south-west and catches an hour or so of winter sun in the mid to late afternoon, and up to three hours on summer afternoons. Though in the depth of winter Elphingstone can be untenably cold for skinny sports climbers, it has generally proven to be climbable all year round, even in summer with shaded climbing to be found throughout the day.

Many of the routes have lower offs considerably longer than the route itself as the ground falls away below the starting points. A 70m rope is paramount rather than prudent.

Approach:

From Blackheath turn right at the Explorers Rd before the 'Explorers Tree'. This is a loop road with two entry points and restrictions on what lanes you can enter from and exit to. Coming from Katoomba you will turn at the Exporer Tree itself, albeit more of a large stump! Turn into Pulpit Hill rd and park at the end. Walk through the gate for about 10min. At a point where you can see into the valley to the left and across to Narrow Neck peninsula , walk up the next hill to where it flattens and there is an old derelict tin lean-to (i.e. a tin roof lying on the ground!). You will find a cairn again a small pine tree on the left. Walk down this steepening track for 5min until it terminates at the cliff edge. There is an obvious rap in chain on a large boulder. You will need a 40m rope to fix and rap in with. Use the rope capture fixtures to stop your rope rubbing. Climb out using the via ferrata (not glued in) and an appropriate device (like a minitraxion). Do not solo the via ferrata!

Ethic:

There are many CLOSED PROJECTS in both sectors. As a matter of respect, stay off them unless you have permission from the person who bolted it or the project becomes listed as open.

1.4.9.1. Main wall 28 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271089, -33.711436

Description:

Many routes are 35m+ and will make your forearms feel like they have been bludgeoned by blood. Sun till 11am in the summer, and none in the winter. Wind proof gear is a must in the winter.

Approach:

After rapping in, walk down the track and turn right. The wall looms over you after about 50m. Mind the cliff edge, there are spots where you wouldn't want to trip!

Descent Notes:

Mind your rope length as routes often lower off beyond the cliff edge, or at the very least significantly lower than where the route starts. You will need a 70m ROPE MINIMUM!

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1.4.9.2. Dumbo Love Sector 23 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.272484, -33.710218

Description:

Full of great routes in the mid to late 20's. With the odd exception, these routes are long and involved.

Approach:

At the base of the rap, head down and take a left through the jungle. After a couple of minutes traverse above a large boulder and cross the creek. Traverse the far side of the creek and around the right side of the large boulder slightly downhill.

Descent Notes:

Use a 70m rope.

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1.4.9.3. Dennis Lillee Memorial Wall 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271554, -33.710526

Description:

From the bottom of the rap station head down the path and turn (stage) left. After about 50m look up and see the big orangey, black, polka dot white roofy sustained goodness this wall has to offer. March up through the Kokoda to the base of the wall. Routes start a few meters off the ground after climbing up rungs through seeping rock. Don't let the bottom of these routes deter you from trying them. They are set to be mega classics!!

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1.4.10. Pulpit Hill 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.268199, -33.712618

1.4.11. The Egg 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.266477, -33.708769

Description:© (mjw)

Like 'Diamond Falls' and 'Gateway' this crag attracts the wind. In summer the sun hits the crag at about 2pm. Funky sport climbing. An excellent find.

Useful Info: No matter what the weather is like at the car take a jacket or jumper - and a hat! Its wilderness so please treat it with respect. No new routes, no cairns.

Approach:© (mjw)

The Egg is situated on the Elphinstone Plateau approximately 5mins from Katoomba and 15mins from Blackheath. If approaching from Blackheath turn right at the Explorers Rd – do not attempt to turn into Explorers Rd at the 'Marked Tree'. 20mins easy walk then 7mins down a steep track. The track to the crag is not marked as such (see info and access). Stay on the main fire trail, dont take any right turns, until you walk past a cleared area with a 'lean to' in it (ruins). Turn right 10m past this area - the track straight ahead leads to the Trig Station and Esgate's Ladders - walk aprox 140m and look for track through rocks and logs. Track is well marked after this.

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Ike the Butcher Steepness. Start: 5m right of the sign. FA: lloyd wishart, 2006	26	Sport 15m		Scott Hailstone 6 years ago so good, so pumpy
2		Funky Monkey The warm up...if you're a pumper. Jug along with glee. FA: C.Coghill, 2003	24	Sport 14m		Nathan Bolton 4 years ago very punchy Jason Lammers 5 years ago Can i lend some draws. I'll give them back (NOT)
3		Glow Doesnt get as much attention as 'Headshot' but just as good. Perhaps a little more thuggy? FA: M.Warren,	26	Sport 18m		David O'Donnell 6 years ago mission accomplished. Adam Bramwell 6 years ago sweet red rock.. watch out for drag. 1 fall
4		Headshot Took 5 days to bolt with much head scratching, almost didn't happen. Thought it would be 21. Maybe it is? FA: M.Warren,	27	Sport 17m		Jason Smith 5 years ago An upgrade? Maybe people need to use their knees more. The usual Egg funkyness Lee Cujes 6 years ago Mist, rain, lack of commitment.
5		Red Demon The warm up if you arn't a pumper. The most popular route here. Good climbing! FA: C.Coghill, 2004	24	Sport 14m		Nathan Bolton 4 years ago solid climbing on great rock Lauren Chandler 5 years ago No skin and Smashed! : )
6		Five Point Exploding Heart Is solid for the grade now with the direct finish. FA: L.Cossey,	28	Sport 20m		chris 9 years ago Five point EXPLODING heart, not Bleeding, you eejits.... I bolted it and named it!
7		The Deal with Space Like a Cornetto...no boring parts! FA: D Smith,	24	Sport 15m		David O'Donnell 5 years ago this felt v.hard. David O'Donnell 6 years ago just couldnt finish the job at the EOTD
8		Tornado FA: C. Coghill, 2005	24	Sport 20m		Mark Ashmore 8 years ago A couple of tricky sections and a nice position. chris 9 years ago So-so climbing, but great position.
9		The Floating Line	28	Unknown 18m		chris 6 years ago 4 more shots today. Getting so close dammit! chris 6 years ago two shots today with one fall both times. This is a fantastic line. It was the first line I bolt...
10		Project Stick clip ring on the lip and pass rope through the hooks in the roof. FA: L. Cossey, 2000		Sport
11		The Floating Line (homage to an angel) Everything you don't want your life's work to be. Awesome line, a grade harder after every move, run-out and slopey! FA: Vision and bolting courtesy of Chris Coghill, FA: T.Wolf, M.Warren., 2007	28	Sport 22m

1.4.12. Boganville 28 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Description:© (nmonteith)

West facing sport climbing up steep orange rock. Similar in style to 'Bowens Creek'. Route names are from Simon Carter's guidebook and route descriptions are a mix of that guide and recent first hand ascents. Many of the grades in the Carter guide are wrong as they were guesstimates.

This crag is in National Park, please behave accordingly. In particular do not damage any vegetation, as there are some rare endangered plants which live near this crag and on the walk-in and NOWHERE ELSE. If climbers destroy the plants' peace, National Parks will probably do the same to climbers - don't stuff it for the rest of us!

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From 'Diamond Falls' carpark walk/ride along 'Narrow Neck' road for 50 minutes to obvious pine tree. Leave road there and follow foot-track downhill to cliff.

1.4.12.1. Fever Face 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport,Top Rope

Description:

The crag to the right of the descent- facing the cliff

1.4.12.2. The right wall 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport

Description:© (nmonteith)

Steep and juggy with lots of bolts. Right side is chossy. Totally waterproof.

1.4.12.3. the left wall 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport

Description:© (nmonteith)

Fantastic long steep routes with big holds. If you like to pump this place is the shnizzle.

1.5. Medlow Bath 196 routes in Crag

1046351287291

1 Three Brothers, 2 Flying Fox Area, 3 The Sunbath, 4 Sunbath Bouldering, 5 Colliseum, 6 Valley Farm, 7 The Sporting Complex, 8 The Underworld, 9 Pole 28, 10 Sooty Crag, 12 Reservoir Dogs

Summary:

Sport,? and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.277210, -33.680774

1.5.1. Three Brothers 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

?,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.275349, -33.680758

Description:

The Three Brothers and Flying Fox crags are long-forgotten trad crags with routes detailed (vaguely) in the 1997 Sydney Rockies Guidebook. Now there is also some modern bolt protected sport and mixed routes. Funky features and good rock make for charismatic climbing, though the older lines are pretty dirty. Access is relatively quick and straightforward, and the shorter walls here have a friendly feel with great views and a variety of aspects. The newer Pole 28 area has mainly sport climbs and has grown along two sections of cliff above and below each other. ‘Lower’ Pole 28 is technically part of the old Flying Fox crag.

Access

From the highway turn onto Bellevue Cres, 100m south of the service station at Medlow Bath. Pass Delmonte Ave then before the right hand bend turn left down a rough dirt road, park on Bellevue if your car has low clearance. Follow the dirt road downhill over numerous water-bars, a dry creek crossing filled with river rocks, and note powerlines crossing overhead with a green power-pole on left – you are aiming for the second pole (visible ahead) accessed by steep left-hand turn a little further on with parking under the powerlines. The access road is not great for cars with particularly low clearance, but an average 2WD should manage with careful driving and a few minor scrapes. You can always discreetly park on Bellevue and walk 10 min extra.

Left of the closest power-pole in this parking spot is the start of a very obvious and well manicured track. Walk 150m or less to a fork, then turn left and head downhill 30m or so to a slabby step-down with the Three Brothers pagodas in front of you. The track swings sharp right here another 30m, then just before a sharp left- hand bend take a discreet track with a cairn on the right. After 10 or 15 metres of flat ground a series of switchbacks descend down short ledges (look for cairns) into a broad gully. The track hairpins hard left at a tall white gum and down a tighter gully between two short walls, before opening onto the half-way terrace between the upper and lower cliff-lines. This is the base of the upper descent gully – 5 mins from car.

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Brothers K From the base of the upper descent gully, on the approach to The Three Brothers (lower cliff), turn right and walk 40m. Continue past closed project on a steep orange nose (red tag first bolt) to Brothers K, up the centre of a narrow shady wall with an undercut start and a ferny corner to the right. Stick-clip first bolt for sweet boulder moves through undercut start on good face holds, then pleasant wall climbing on funky features to a thin finish over the bulge. Double U-bolt lower off. FA: Tom Hepner, Hannah Hepner, Tom ‘T-bor’ Thomson., 2010	22	Sport 18m , 5
2		Kalifornication Short, steep orange nose with U-bolts, 20m right (south) of Brothers K. Closed Project.		Unknown Project
3		Easy Oasy	6	Unknown 30m		Dave Brown 11 years ago just started climbing
4		Easy Oasy Arete	7	Unknown 40m
5		Green Gully Arete	9	Unknown 40m
6		The Great Escape	15	Unknown 37m
7		Gung Ho	15	Unknown 13m
8		Red Crack	12	Unknown 50m
9		White Wall	13	Unknown 50m
10		Blue Chimney	12	Unknown 53m
11		Alfonso Dominico Jones Mixed route: 4 bolts, single set cams (0.3 – 2 Camalot), medium wire or two. Lower-off. Walk 30m south from descent gully: past the initials ‘RC’ (Red Crack), around to a striking red wall and shady chimney. Starts one metre out from the corner, on the right-hand face at a thin crack, and a few metres left of the white ‘BC’ (Blue Chimney) initials. Stem for several metres with smaller cams and a medium wire in a strange slot feature, trend right past 2 bolts and small cam, to ledge (no. 2 Camalot) then nice finish up wall and arête past 2 bolts to lower off. FA: Tom Hepner, 2010	19	Mixed 22m , 4
12		The Seventh Labour	15 M2	Aid 40m
13		Crankenfurten From the base of the lower descent gully follow the cliff line along to the right (north) for about 100m past undercut black slabs and eventually a tall yellow wall capped by a roof. At the far end of this wall is the blocky orange buttress of Crankenfurten. Sport Route: 10 bolts to lower-off. A funky and gymnastic route with a thoughtful crux. Starts at a flared groove in the yellow wall. Up groove for several metres then onto left wall, up through thoughtful blocky bulges on nose (after clipping 6th bolt, unclip 5th for less rope drag) then aesthetic grey & orange face to lower-off. FA: Tom Hepner, 2010	20	Sport 23m , 10

1.5.2. Flying Fox Area 30 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.276059, -33.678788

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		The Underworld	14	Unknown 30m
2		Cerberus	16 M1	Aid 50m
3		Orpheus Arete Variant	17	Unknown 33m
4		Orpheus Arete	15	Unknown 57m
5		Embossed Carbuncle	14	Unknown 53m
6		Fibbertigibbet	15	Unknown 53m
7		Who's Lead?	10	Unknown 47m
8		Time Out	13	Unknown 50m
9		Copernicus	17	Unknown 53m
10		tycho brahe FA: J.smoothy p.butcher,	17	Unknown
11		Transvestite	14	Unknown 60m
12		Pshcho Arete	10	Unknown 33m
13		Megalomaniac	13	Unknown 53m
14		Hair	8	Unknown 50m
15		Skinhead	8	Unknown 37m
16		Riff-Raff	8	Unknown 33m
17		No Time Climb	11	Unknown 47m
18		As You Like It	12	Unknown 37m
19		As You Like It Direct Start	18	Unknown 10m
20		Nymphomaniac	13	Unknown 43m
21		The Homo	12	Unknown 40m
22		Sultry	12	Unknown 40m
23		Acquarius	8	Unknown 30m
24		Deceptor Arete	12	Unknown 27m
25		Blowfly	11	Unknown 27m
26		Contemplation	15	Unknown 40m
27		Inexperience	7	Unknown 37m
28		Delilah	16 M2	Aid 40m
29		Easy Day	9	Unknown 40m
30		Escapism	11	Unknown 46m