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Summary

The shortest walk in the Mountains

Description

A vertical wall of old and new school crimpy classics. Good for windy days or hot afternoons.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

Seriously you park at the base of the wall. To turn back around drive about 1km down the road to a dirt turning area on the side of the road.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
17 Electrostatic Axila Sport 15m

Great pro down low... Take you brown cords for the top section...

Great pro down low... Take you brown cords for the top section...

FA: V. Peterson, 2004

2
23 Goosed Sport 15m

FA: V. Peterson, 2004

3
21 * Something with Spiders Sport 15m, 6

Start: Start 3m R of the corner crack.

FA: V. Kondos, 1993

4
23 The Rainbow Three Sport 15m

Start 1m right of SWS. Up past three UB's to join SWS at rest (optionally clip SWS 4th ring). Finish as for SWS.

FA: S. Hawkshaw, 2004

5
22 * Superplasticiser Sport 12m

Stick clip then batman. Hopefully this route heralded the end of manufacturing at this crag - a much better solution than all the shenanigans on routes further right.

FA: S. Hawkshaw, 2003

6
25 ** Liam's Lemon Sport 15m

Left of Hitlistless. Boulder to fused corner. Good!!

FA: M Warren

7
23 R * Hitlistless Sport 15m, 5

And here we find the controversial bolt-on gym hold (hence the M1 grade!). Why this is better than just pulling on the bolt is anyone's guess.

FA: M. Law, 2000

8
25 ** Orange Slice Sport 15m

Boulder low bulge then trend up left, but don't join H (the topo in the 2007 BM guide is wrong).

Start: Start 5m R of H.

FA: M. Law, 1993

9
27 ** Black Heat Sport 12m

As for OH over first bulge then trend a bit R up the cool crescent shaped black fused flake.

Start: Start as for OH.

FA: M. Law, 2003

10
26 ** Bryzance Sport 15m

A typical Law route, delicate and powerful at the same time.

Start: Start 10m R of BH, at the obvious bolted seam near the R end of the main wall.

FA: M. Law, 1993

11
24 ** Michael Bolt-On Sport 15m

FA: K. Seymour, 2004

12
23 * Alpaca Corner Sport 12m

FA: M. Law, 2003

13
24 ** Gas Leak Slab Sport 15m

FA: mike law; Carter new guide

14
22 * Tripartheid Unknown 25m
15
21 Crux Clue Clan Unknown 25m
16
14 Ophicardelus Unknown 25m
17
21 The Climbing Wilburys Unknown 15m
18
21 Arachnid Sport 16m

Start 2 m right of The Climbing Wilburys. Climb the vertical face on edges to the ledge (take sling to extend 7th runner). Step right, then final wall to lower offs.

FA: M. Franklin, A. Geoghegan, 2010

19
23 * Wilbury Jam Unknown 15m
20
22 Three Stooges Unknown 15m
21
Open Project Sport 12m
22
23
16 Morningside Unknown 25m
24
15 Canta Libre Unknown 30m
25
18 Cracklin' Rosie Unknown 30m
26
14 Play Me Unknown 18m
27
17 M1 Done Too Soon Aid 30m
28
10 Song Sung Blue Unknown 25m
29
9 Travelling Salvation Unknown 32m
30
18 Shilo Unknown 32m
31
17 Sweet Caroline Unknown 32m
32
14 Porcupine Pie Unknown 30m
33
8 Solitary Man Unknown 32m
34
16 Holly Holy Unknown 32m
35
18 Spinulosa Spindrift Unknown 32m
36
16 Red, Red Wine Unknown 32m
37
17 Soolaimon Unknown 32m

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