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Summary

The shortest walk in the Mountains

Description

A vertical wall of old and new school crimpy classics. Good for windy days or hot afternoons.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

Seriously you park at the base of the wall. To turn back around drive about 1km down the road to a dirt turning area on the side of the road.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Great pro down low... Take you brown cords for the top section..

FA: V. Peterson, 2004

FA: V. Peterson, 2004

Start: Start 3m R of the corner crack.

FA: V. Kondos, 1993

Start 1m right of SWS. Up past three UB's to join SWS at rest (optionally clip SWS 4th ring). Finish as for SWS.

FA: S. Hawkshaw, 2004

Stick clip then batman. Hopefully this route heralded the end of manufacturing at this crag - a much better solution than all the shenanigans on routes further right.

FA: S. Hawkshaw, 2003

Left of Hitlistless. Boulder to fused corner. Good!!

FA: M Warren

And here we find the controversial bolt-on gym hold (hence the M1 grade!). Why this is better than just pulling on the bolt is anyone's guess.

FA: M. Law, 2000

Boulder low bulge then trend up left, but don't join H (the topo in the 2007 BM guide is wrong).

Start: Start 5m R of H.

FA: M. Law, 1993

As for OH over first bulge then trend a bit R up the cool crescent shaped black fused flake.

Start: Start as for OH.

FA: M. Law, 2003

A typical Law route, delicate and powerful at the same time.

Start: Start 10m R of BH, at the obvious bolted seam near the R end of the main wall.

FA: M. Law, 1993

FA: K. Seymour, 2004

FA: M. Law, 2003

FA: mike law; Carter new guide

Start 2 m right of The Climbing Wilburys. Climb the vertical face on edges to the ledge (take sling to extend 7th runner). Step right, then final wall to lower offs.

FA: M. Franklin & A. Geoghegan, 2010

Activity

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