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Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Electrostatic Axila

Great pro down low... Take you brown cords for the top section...

Great pro down low... Take you brown cords for the top section...

FA: V. Peterson, 2004

17
Sport 15m
2 Goosed

FA: V. Peterson, 2004

23
Sport 15m
3 * Something with Spiders

Start: Start 3m R of the corner crack.

FA: V. Kondos, 1993

21
Sport 15m , 6
4 The Rainbow Three

Start 1m right of SWS. Up past three UB's to join SWS at rest (optionally clip SWS 4th ring). Finish as for SWS.

FA: S. Hawkshaw, 2004

23
Sport 15m
5 * Superplasticiser

Stick clip then batman. Hopefully this route heralded the end of manufacturing at this crag - a much better solution than all the shenanigans on routes further right.

FA: S. Hawkshaw, 2003

22
Sport 12m
6 ** Liam's Lemon

Left of Hitlistless. Boulder to fused corner. Good!!

FA: M Warren,

25
Sport 15m
7 * Hitlistless

And here we find the controversial bolt-on gym hold (hence the M1 grade!). Why this is better than just pulling on the bolt is anyone's guess.

FA: M. Law, 2000

23 R
Sport 15m , 5
8 ** Orange Slice

Boulder low bulge then trend up left, but don't join H (the topo in the 2007 BM guide is wrong).

Start: Start 5m R of H.

FA: M. Law, 1993

25
Sport 15m
9 ** Black Heat

As for OH over first bulge then trend a bit R up the cool crescent shaped black fused flake.

Start: Start as for OH.

FA: M. Law, 2003

27
Sport 12m
10 ** Bryzance

A typical Law route, delicate and powerful at the same time.

Start: Start 10m R of BH, at the obvious bolted seam near the R end of the main wall.

FA: M. Law, 1993

26
Sport 15m
11 ** Michael Bolt-On

FA: K. Seymour, 2004

24
Sport 15m
12 * Alpaca Corner

FA: M. Law, 2003

22
Sport 12m
13 ** Gas Leak Slab

FA: mike law; Carter new guide,

24
Sport 15m
14 * Tripartheid
22
Unknown 25m
15 Crux Clue Clan
21
Unknown 25m
16 Ophicardelus
14
Unknown 25m
17 The Climbing Wilburys
21
Unknown 15m
18 * Wilbury Jam
23
Unknown 15m
19 Three Stooges
22
Unknown 15m
20 Open Project
Sport 12m
21 Project – Mitch
Sport 12m
22 Morningside
16
Unknown 25m
23 Canta Libre
15
Unknown 30m
24 Cracklin' Rosie
18
Unknown 30m
25 Play Me
14
Unknown 18m
26 Done Too Soon
17 M1
Aid 30m
27 Song Sung Blue
10
Unknown 25m
28 Travelling Salvation
9
Unknown 32m
29 Shilo
18
Unknown 32m
30 Sweet Caroline
17
Unknown 32m
31 Porcupine Pie
14
Unknown 30m
32 Solitary Man
8
Unknown 32m
33 Holly Holy
16
Unknown 32m
34 Spinulosa Spindrift
18
Unknown 32m
35 Red, Red Wine
16
Unknown 32m
36 Soolaimon
17
Unknown 32m

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.