Hartley Crag guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Kyle Dunsire Phil Ward Brendan Heywood Tony Williams Campbell Gome Will Monks Lee Cujes Jim Croft Stephen Hawkshaw John Thirlwell

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1. Hartley 241 in Crag
- 1.1. Hartley Vale Road 36 in Crag
- 1.2. Hartley Heights 18 in Crag
- 1.3. Kerosene Wall 9 in Crag
- 1.4. Dargan's Creek 83 in Crag
  - 1.4.1. Western Cliff 7 in Crag
- 1.5. Kangaroo Corner 49 in Crag
- 1.6. The Poetry Strip 4 in Crag
- 1.7. Peek-A-Boo Buttress 11 in Crag
- 1.8. The Tardis 31 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. Hartley 241 routes in Crag

5 1

1 Hartley Vale Road, 5 Kangaroo Corner

seasonality

Summary:: ?,Trad and other styles
Long/Lat: 150.252242, -33.523912
Description:© (secretary): A small crag on the very edge of the back side of the Blue Mountains. By far the best thing about this crag is the 5 metre walk in. If your ethics preclude reinforcement and/or enhancement then perhaps you shouldn't visit here. [Or, abandoning evasive euphemisms in favour of plain speaking, if you don't like bolted-on gym holds, blank sections with glued on rocks surrounded by ugly glue smears, blatantly chipped holds, and bolted splitter cracks, then you won't like what's been done to this crag]. If you do visit, enjoy it just for the climbing.

Sunny until 12-1pm, i.e. good before midday in the winter and on summer afternoons – although it can get a little muggy at times.

There is a motley collection of old carrots further to the right of 'Gas Leak Slab'. Take care as this gear has not been assessed and probably never will be.
Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains: The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.
Approach:© (secretary): From the traffic lights in Mt Vic, drive north along the Darling Causeway, and after 6.1km turn left onto 'Hartley' Vale Rd. If coming via Bell, head south along the Darling Causeway then after 3.9km turn right onto 'Hartley' Vale Rd. Drive cautiously down here, the road is very narrow and there's a few blind corners where you wouldn't want to meet someone coming the other way. The crag is 1.1km down the hill on the left, immediately above the road. It is possible to park 2 cars in the small alcove at the base of the crag. However if you have a bigger party there is a small parking area about 100m before the crag, and more parking 100m downhill and beyond. Watch out for bicycles when opening your car doors!
Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains: Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

1.1. Hartley Vale Road 36 routes in Crag

Summary:: ?,Sport and Aid
Long/Lat: 150.257221, -33.529922

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Electrostatic Axila Great pro down low... Take you brown cords for the top section... Great pro down low... Take you brown cords for the top section... FA: V. Peterson, 2004	17	Sport 15m	Jimmy Mullan 4 months ago Bottom is fun. Slab not so much. More 18 than 17 Paul Thomson 5 months ago Quite fun... Especially if you try and climb it only using the corner (down with face holds!). I'...
2	Goosed FA: V. Peterson, 2004	23	Sport 15m	Ryan Whelan 4 years ago felt like 20 Vanessa Wills 7 years ago not too hard
3	Something with Spiders Start: Start 3m R of the corner crack. FA: V. Kondos, 1993	21	Sport 15m , 6	Paul Thomson 5 months ago Easy for the grade, but one punchy sequence, and exciting moves near the bottom. Good value for s... Will Monks 2 years ago weird first bolt position, but good route
4	The Rainbow Three Start 1m right of SWS. Up past three UB's to join SWS at rest (optionally clip SWS 4th ring). Finish as for SWS. FA: S. Hawkshaw, 2004	23	Sport 15m	Ben Jenga 1 years ago Not to bad but not to hard. Damien Boorman 3 years ago an easy 23
5	Superplasticiser Stick clip then batman. Hopefully this route heralded the end of manufacturing at this crag - a much better solution than all the shenanigans on routes further right. FA: S. Hawkshaw, 2003	22	Sport 12m	Chris Bentham 8 years ago my finger is permantly bent due to this climb Peter Morris 8 years ago I think 4 Hards.... Love the "V" Pocket......
6	Liam's Lemon Left of Hitlistless. Boulder to fused corner. Good!! FA: M Warren,	25	Sport 15m	JJ 8 years ago 2nd shot. Should've committed to stepping onto the glue on hold. Doh! Gnarly start!
7	Hitlistless And here we find the controversial bolt-on gym hold (hence the M1 grade!). Why this is better than just pulling on the bolt is anyone's guess. FA: M. Law, 2000	23 R	Sport 15m , 5	Jimmy Mullan 4 months ago Hard start. Sketchy run out. Ran out of time for another shot. Ben Jenga 1 years ago Stiff at 23 in the guide but makes sense at 24. Really tenuious to the third bolt.
8	Orange Slice Boulder low bulge then trend up left, but don't join H (the topo in the 2007 BM guide is wrong). Start: Start 5m R of H. FA: M. Law, 1993	25	Sport 15m	Tim Haasnoot 3 years ago great, tough start, nice climbing Nick Clow 3 years ago 2nd go, surprisingly good. x 2
9	Black Heat As for OH over first bulge then trend a bit R up the cool crescent shaped black fused flake. Start: Start as for OH. FA: M. Law, 2003	27	Sport 12m
10	Bryzance A typical Law route, delicate and powerful at the same time. Start: Start 10m R of BH, at the obvious bolted seam near the R end of the main wall. FA: M. Law, 1993	26	Sport 15m	Ben Jenga 1 years ago Fell off on the onsite after the crux cause I relaxed my feet. Sent second shot, felt pretty easy. Nick Clow 3 years ago great technical/friction problem
11	Michael Bolt-On FA: K. Seymour, 2004	24	Sport 15m	JJ 8 years ago Nails start, then cruise to top. Very shitty rock!
12	Alpaca Corner FA: M. Law, 2003	22	Sport 12m	lindsay 3 years ago bit dirty...otherwise very cool adam palmer 5 years ago very nice, deserves more stars
13	Gas Leak Slab FA: mike law; Carter new guide,	24	Sport 15m	Nick Clow 4 years ago 2nd go, 24 in new guide Stephen Hawkshaw 7 years ago damn finger! how quickly an onight turns to a ghost. doh! super sweet moves. very technical.
14	Tripartheid	22	Unknown 25m
15	Crux Clue Clan	21	Unknown 25m
16	Ophicardelus	14	Unknown 25m
17	The Climbing Wilburys	21	Unknown 15m
18	Wilbury Jam	23	Unknown 15m
19	Three Stooges	22	Unknown 15m
20	Open Project		Sport 12m
21	Project – Mitch		Sport 12m
22	Morningside	16	Unknown 25m
23	Canta Libre	15	Unknown 30m
24	Cracklin' Rosie	18	Unknown 30m
25	Play Me	14	Unknown 18m
26	Done Too Soon	17 M1	Aid 30m
27	Song Sung Blue	10	Unknown 25m
28	Travelling Salvation	9	Unknown 32m
29	Shilo	18	Unknown 32m
30	Sweet Caroline	17	Unknown 32m
31	Porcupine Pie	14	Unknown 30m
32	Solitary Man	8	Unknown 32m	Mike Patterson choss, & I missed the bolt!
33	Holly Holy	16	Unknown 32m
34	Spinulosa Spindrift	18	Unknown 32m
35	Red, Red Wine	16	Unknown 32m
36	Soolaimon	17	Unknown 32m

1.2. Hartley Heights 18 routes in Crag

Summary:: All Unknown

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Beats Painting	16	Unknown 8m
2	Murph's Idea	14	Unknown 8m
3	Access Route	14	Unknown 8m
4	Postcard From the Edge	22	Unknown 12m
5	Wilber View	16	Unknown 10m
6	Gasping	19	Unknown 8m
7	Stillsons	16	Unknown 8m
8	The Great Crusade	19	Unknown 15m
9	The Holy Grail	20	Unknown 15m
10	Grid Lock	17	Unknown 15m
11	Stark	15	Unknown 15m
12	Corner FA: First recorded ascent, Jim Croft,	10	Unknown 15m
13	I Should Be Painting	18	Unknown 15m
14	Where's Wilber?	14	Unknown 15m
15	It's the Red Roof	17	Unknown 15m
16	27	15	Unknown 15m
17	Piece of Pierce	19	Unknown 12m
18	Alfa	10	Unknown 12m

1.3. Kerosene Wall 9 routes in Crag

Summary:: All Unknown

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Teinkletoes	12	Unknown 15m
2	Spock in a Beanie	19	Unknown 20m
3	Jack	20	Unknown 23m
4	Ryobi One Kanobi	23	Unknown 25m
5	Citizens of the Cosmos	21	Unknown 23m
6	Seven Seconds to Impact	19	Unknown 23m
7	Princes Leiaway	16	Unknown 15m
8	The Industrial Revolution	17	Unknown 15m
9	Calvin Climb (a stylish little number)	20	Unknown 15m

1.4. Dargan's Creek 83 routes in Crag

Summary:: Mostly Trad or Sport

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Bib	8	Unknown 20m
2	Effervevescence	13	Unknown 20m
3	The Lord is My Shepherd	18	Unknown 25m
4	Promenade	12	Unknown 25m
5	halcyon daze FA: J .Smoothy,	21	Unknown 20m
6	Avanti	16	Unknown 25m
7	Taralay	14	Unknown 25m
8	Sinbad	20	Unknown 25m
9	Sandman	14	Unknown 20m
10	Hair Raiser	15	Unknown 25m
11	Mark 1	8	Unknown 25m
12	Rapunzel	18	Unknown 25m
13	The Vertical Smile	10	Unknown 22m
14	In Imoralities Name	16	Unknown 40m
15	Odds 'n' Sods	14	Unknown 30m
16	Black Pig	13	Unknown 30m
17	Sherazade	14	Unknown 20m
18	Nite Sorter	8	Unknown 10m
19	Good Show	16	Unknown 10m
20	Summer Rain	8	Unknown 10m
21	Linda	13	Unknown 10m
22	Evidently Chicken Town	15	Unknown 10m
23	Aladin	13	Unknown 10m
24	Kalif	12	Unknown 20m
25	Mail Box	10	Unknown 15m
26	Postman	8	Unknown 15m
27	Sham	8	Unknown 25m
28	Arabian Knight	13	Unknown 36m
29	Bowel	6	Unknown 22m
30	Caribou	17	Unknown 60m
31	Sandpiper	15	Unknown 25m
32	Peep Show	13	Unknown 25m
33	Euclyd	11	Unknown 25m
34	Earnest	14	Unknown 15m
35	Frank	15	Unknown 15m
36	Mooktar	11	Unknown 30m
37	Vanity Fair Variant Start	15	Unknown 10m
38	Vanity Fair	14	Unknown 25m
39	Wingeel	16	Unknown 10m
40	The Last Great Chimney Struggle	9	Unknown 23m
41	Other World	10	Unknown 50m
42	???? FA: G Weigand,	25	Unknown
43	Haruno	12	Unknown 20m
44	Positively 4th Street	17	Unknown 35m
45	isle of lepers FA: G Weigand j. Smoothy,	23	Unknown
46	Almost Certainly 5th Street	14	Unknown 35m
47	Boardwalk	14	Unknown 30m
48	Mastaba	8	Unknown 25m
49	Lancinate	17	Unknown 25m
50	Liverwust	18	Unknown 25m
51	No Bra	10	Unknown 15m
52	Nark	19	Unknown 30m
53	Hagar	16	Unknown 25m
54	Ragnar	17	Unknown 20m
55	Valhalla	17	Unknown 20m
56	Warlord	17	Unknown 20m
57	Drifter	8	Unknown 15m
58	Zephyr	13	Unknown 15m
59	Breezy	13	Unknown 40m
60	Wipeout	11	Unknown 40m
61	I.W.Y. - 1975	8	Unknown 25m
62	Regicide	8	Unknown 25m
63	The Hollow Grin	8	Unknown 23m
64	Bewildered	14 M1	Aid 50m
65	Befuddled	13	Unknown 50m
66	Bothered	16	Unknown 35m
67	Bewitched	17	Unknown 30m
68	Pandora	13	Unknown 30m
69	Blue Bird	13	Unknown 25m
70	Comeback	11	Unknown 20m
71	Breakaway	14	Unknown 20m
72	Bemused	13	Unknown 25m
73	Rip	11	Unknown 25m
74	Roar	9	Unknown 20m
75	Rumble	12	Unknown 20m
76	Thurba	13	Unknown

1.4.1. Western Cliff 7 routes in Crag

Summary:: All Unknown

	Route	Grade	Style
1	The Pinnacle	8	Unknown 25m
2	Almost Up	8	Unknown 50m
3	Pokerface	13	Unknown 60m
4	Pruneface	14	Unknown 60m
5	Mumbles	16	Unknown 40m
6	Itchy	11	Unknown 45m
7	The Original Scrooge	12	Unknown 45m

1.5. Kangaroo Corner 49 routes in Crag

Summary:: Trad,?
Long/Lat: 150.265398, -33.516064
Description:© (secretary): Keeping up the apparent Blue Mountains traditions of carrots, mixed climbing and tree belays!

Useful Info: A Special Plea:- This is not parkland and is surrounded by private property, so it would be beneficial to all if we treat the area with care and consideration.
Approach:© (secretary): Turn left off Darling Causeway approximately 1.3kms after 'Hartley' Vale Rd (heading toward Bell). Follow track for 200m then left up hill to large clearing and dumped rubbish. At clump of 7 eucalypts turn right (several tracks lead out of the clearing) and follow track to obvious parking bay, for 2 or 3 cars.

Walk down track and straight ahead to rock ledges and top of 'Ivory Tower' Buttress. The cairn on the left before the bottom of the track heading to the 'Ivory Tower' takes you to the abseil point above the Black Slab. You will require two ropes to abseil!

There is also an abseil point above Aerial Manouveres from which it is possible to reach the ground on a single rope via a second abseil from a tree.

To walk down, follow the cliff edge around to the right (facing out) approaching the waterfall. Turn left at small cairn – there is an awkward section involving a 3m down climb. There is a track of sorts around the base of the cliff.

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1	A Bit On The Side Obvious crack that splits the sth side of the buttress. Enjoyable & well protected. FA: H.Luxford, R.Harris, 2001	14	Trad 22m
2	A Bit Extra Pleasant crack climbing. Its possible to walk of the halfway ledge INTO the gully. Though easy to the top there is a short DROP hindering access to ground level. FA: Harris, Luxford, 2001	12	Trad 18m
3	Hidden Corner Good. Well protected corner crack. Rap of gum at top! FA: Luxford, Harris, 2001	18	Trad 26m
4	Dances with Myths The first corner about 40m left (nth) of the waterfall. FA: Luxford, Harris, 2001	17	Trad 25m
5	Bringabeeralong corner to 35m ledge to chimney to tree belay! 10m to top. Take cams. FA: Luxford, Harris, 2001	17	Trad 45m
6	Give Yourself an Uppercut 16m to ledge & DBB. 34m left around nose, over bulge, left to DBR. To tree belay! 'Small' cams. 15m up wall and crack. Start: Start as for 'Ivory Tower' FA: B.Cameron, Luxford A.L, 2000	18	Trad 65m
7	Fat Fingers Start: Start as for 'Ivory Tower'. To ledge and DBB 30m to undercling, left to wall/corner to tree belay! rightish up wall FA: Cameron, Luxford, 2000	14	Trad 60m
8	Hyperbole Variation pitch for 'Fat Fingers'. as for FF to traverse, right across this to DBB & large cam. 3. 15m right face to ledge. 4. up. FA: Cameron, Luxford, 2000	18	Trad 29m
9	Ivory Tower Up the centre of the main buttress. 20 m Short arete and ledges to BR, traverse L to crack, up it, then right to tree. 20 m. Crack then continue up to DBB. 15 m Line of BRs up off-width corner crack (crux) and exposed traverse L under roof to arete, then up easy ground to top. FA: Luxford, Cameron A.L, 2000	14	Trad 55m		Phil Ward 3 years ago Great varied climbing: slab, crack and an awesome roof traverse. Damien Haines 6 years ago Crap start, then good
10	Maiden Voyage	19	Unknown 52m
11	All Most A Legend Crack/corner 25m sth of IT. Enjoyable! Single pitch to tree! FA: Luxford, Harris, 2001	14	Trad 42m
12	All Most A Legend (Diagonal Variation)	15	Unknown 50m
13	Cirquinox	14	Unknown 46m
14	Day of Redemption Obvious crack on righthand end of blackish wall right of main buttress. 12m crack to tree! corner to ledge – pull up past BR onto wall (!) to top. FA: H Luxford, B Cameron, 2000	12	Trad 42m		Mike Patterson 8 years ago nice corner
15	Day of Redemption (Left Arete Variant)	12	Unknown 40m
16	Day of Redemption (Right Arete Variant)	12	Unknown 42m
17	Covert Corner Short, 90deg corner immediately right of DOR. 30m corner to bush to chimney to crack left side of chimney to ledge & DBB. 10m left 2m and up to DBB. FA: Luxford, Harris, 2002	17	Trad 40m
18	French Corner	19	Trad 20m
19	One Owner, Goes Well	21	Trad 20m
20	Winter Magic	16	Trad 45m
21	Balance of Power Pitch 1: Start up corner then step left onto face and follow line of bolts to ledge and tree belay. Pitch 2: Up and trend right to roof. Clip FH on lip and pull roof move to top-out to chains. FA: H.Luxford/B.Cameron, 2000	18	Trad 48m		John Thirlwell 2 years ago Good slab, then easy roof move on nice positive holds Phil Ward 2 years ago Technical moves on the thin slab first pitch, then an easy rooflet on the second.
22	Aerial Manoeuvres 45m slab/corner past tree INTO chimney, left onto wall past BRs, left onto wall to top. FA: Luxford, Cameron, 2000	17	Trad 45m
23	Dawn Patrol Left facing corner and slab.1. 25m up easy slab, corner to large ledge and belay. 2. Straight up corner. FA: Luxford, Cameron, 2001	17	Trad 45m
24	Agony of the Moment Short corner left end of black slab. 25m corner to overhang, left to BR and up to DBB. 20m up to rap point. FA: B.Cameron/ H.Luxford,	21	Trad 45m		Tony Williams 9 years ago Hard start is easier than it looks even though I fell off first go! Great slabbing follows.
25	Black Tie Affair Delicate. Take small to medium cams. 1. 28m Stick clip FH. Left to large ledge, up to BR, left diagonally to ledge, leftish then up to DBB. 2. 20m left past FH then rightish then up to abseil point. FA: H. Luxford/ R.Harris, 2001	19	Trad 48m		Chris Yeomans 7 years ago Goey Start - both pitches OS Tony Williams 9 years ago Did it 1 pitch. Great slabbing. Fell of the tricky thin traverse at start! Great moves after DBB
26	Delusions of Grandeur Start in middle of black slab. 30 m Up and slightly R past BR and FH then left to ledge at ~6 m. Follow BRs up tending left to ledge (DBB). 25m 2m R past BR then up on better holds to trees. FA: Luxford, Cameron A.L, 2001	19	Trad 50m		Bernie Walsh 2 years ago very thin, balancy and a little tricky, did as a single pitch. Definitely more 20 than 18. Tony Williams 3 years ago Nice slabbing.
Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
27	Black Gold Start up DOG, but step right to ledge on BV. Up weakness, and up tending left past black carot bolts ~2-3 m R of BV.	19	Trad 50m		Rod Smith 5 years ago Sport with Gus. Mike Patterson 7 years ago line of black bolts L of B.M.
28	Black Magic P1 23m, P2 27m. FA: Harry Luxford, Bruce Cameron, 2001	18	Trad 50m		Phil Ward 2 years ago Balancy moves on a slab. Chris Yeomans 7 years ago P1: OS 25/8/05 fantastic route P2: 18/9/05
29	There and Black Again 23m up to FH then rightish to curving overlap, along this to top and tree! Start: Start as for BM. FA: H Luxford, B Cameron., 2002	18	Trad 46m		Mike Patterson 3 years ago Led P1, Josh P2 Tony Williams 3 years ago Thin.
30	Black Velvet Start at base of gully at right end of slab. 1. traverse left to BR, diagonally up to DBR then straight to top. FA: Luxford, Cameron, 2000	15	Trad 50m		Kristy Smith 1 years ago blurgh. wolf spider in vacant bolt hole and flying ants at the top added to the 'experience'. Mike Dixon 1 years ago A sand bag at 15 even. I think something large fell off that would have made it 13. Not ever wort...
31	Rotten Jonny	18	Unknown 40m
32	Age of Consent 3 wandering pitches. FA: Cameron, Luxford, 2001	16	Trad 50m
33	Unknown? Starts at same crack as Araluen Peach. Goes up to tree and continues on left side of arete with several BR's and small/medium cams. FA: ?,	19	Unknown 45m		Tony Williams 3 years ago Love this route. Tony Williams 9 years ago Very good climb. Easily viewed from rap point of Black Slab. Great climbing on left wall/ arete o...
34	Araluen Peach Finishes up the square orange arete 20m R of the Black Slab. Start up short corner crack then swing steeply R around arete to bolt on face and up slabby face to L arete and steep finish. FA: Cameron, Luxford, 2001	18	Trad 45m		John Thirlwell 2 years ago This climb has everything except a roof! Starting in a crack/offwidth/chimney, onto slab, then fi... Phil Ward 2 years ago An awkward chimney start, but easier after escaping right to the ledgy slab.
35	Sandstone Cowboys Reddish corner crack western most point of the buttress. 1. 25m corner to BR, left face to middle of wall, past right hand FH to ledge, right to BR to ledge and DBB. 2. 20m to ledge, left of nose to ledge and FH, diagonally left up overhanging wall to TBB. FA: 24/11/2001,	18	Trad 45m		Tony Williams 9 years ago Wanders a bit but fun climbing. Good litle overhang at end on crusty rock! Definately do it in 2 ...
36	Rave on Mr Yates Up short yellow corner, right to wildish crack and up. FA: Cameron, Luxford, 2000	15	Trad 40m		Tony Williams 3 years ago Old skool classic. Mike Patterson 5 years ago like it says 'old fashioned'
37	Mr Yates Right Wall	16	Unknown 30m
38	Hymns to the Silence On separated block right of Mr.Yates. 1. 18m tree belay! 2. 22m up following line of BRs FA: Cameron, Luxford A.L, 2001	19	Trad 40m
39	Salivation Army	17	Unknown 28m
40	Fancy Dancers Right facing yellowish corner. Start: starts 75m right of HttS. FA: Luxford, Cameron, 2002	14	Trad 43m
41	Fancy Dancers (Direct Start)	17	Unknown 40m
42	Status Seekers Corner crack with roof at start. 1. 33m up to roof then follow BRs to ledge DBB. 2. 15m right to groove and easy slab. FA: Luxford, Harris, 2003	19	Trad 48m
43	Robin Corner 25m to roof but straight up when in the open. 2. 15m behind tree to ledge then as for SS. Start: Start as for SS. FA: Luxford, Harris, 2003	17	Trad 40m
44	South End	17	Unknown 30m
45	Unknown Climb Start left of arête, up crack to tree. Then left side of arête. BRs and cams.	19	Trad
46	FD Direct Follow line of BRs to bulge and finish as for FD. Start: Start on wall a couple of metres right of corner crack. FA: Luxford, Harris, 2002	17	Trad 40m
47	DOR Left arête variant Crack then left ignoring ledge to left side of arête. One pitch. FA: Luxford, Harris, 2002	12	Trad 42m
48	AAL Diagonal Variation 18m start as for AAL to obvious traverse. Make sure you have a 3.5 'Camelot'. 2. 32m across ledge, up thin ramp to ledge left to bush? Then to top. FA: Luxford, Harris, 2001	15	Trad 50m
49	DOR Right arête variant DOR to tree! To wall at BR, to arête and up. FA: Luxford, Harris, 2002	12	Trad 42m

1.6. The Poetry Strip 4 routes in Crag

Summary:: All Unknown

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Poet's Corner	17	Unknown 25m
2	Swags Up!	10	Unknown 25m
3	For the Word Had Got Around	17	Unknown 25m
4	Prince of Whips	18	Unknown 25m

1.7. Peek-A-Boo Buttress 11 routes in Crag

Summary:: All Unknown

	Route	Grade	Style
1	They're a Weird Mob	16	Unknown 55m
2	Robbery Under Arms	19	Unknown 55m
3	The Timeless Land	17	Unknown 55m
4	Rum Rebellion	14	Unknown 60m
5	Wild Cat Falling	18	Unknown 70m
6	The Magic Pudding	15	Unknown 35m
7	We of the Never Never	17	Unknown 20m
8	No Barrier	16	Unknown 20m
9	Cullenbenbong	18	Unknown 20m
10	Landlopers	18	Unknown 20m
11	Lightning Ridge	16	Unknown 25m

1.8. The Tardis 31 routes in Crag

Summary:: Mostly Unknown
Description:: Have the access issues been resolved? Isn't this private property?

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Ramadhan FA: Nora Adam/ Tony Williams,	11	Unknown 15m	Vanessa Wills 7 months ago Kids enjoyed it Tony Williams 7 years ago Good beginner route
2	Spit the Dog FA: Nora Adam/ Tony Williams,	10	Unknown 15m	Vanessa Wills 7 months ago Fun for kids Tony Williams 7 years ago Good Beginner roue
3	Salamay, Dalamay, Adonay	13	Unknown 18m	Tony Williams 9 years ago go all the way to chains
4	The Enterprise	18	Unknown 19m	Tony Williams 14 years ago put the gear on for Nora's flash Tony Williams 15 years ago 2004, I added extra bolt down low for safety and lower off chains at top now
5	Klingons	17	Unknown 18m	Tony Williams 15 years ago lower off chains at top now
6	Orthanc	19	Unknown 20m	Tony Williams 15 years ago lower off chains at top now. There is really only 1 way to do Orthanc and that is direct.
7	Orthanc Direct	19	Unknown 18m	Tony Williams 8 years ago The only way to do Orthanc. Tony Williams 15 years ago 1/5/05 Bolt added down low and lower off chains at top now.
8	Kirk	16	Unknown 19m	Tony Williams 7 years ago Rebolted Tony Williams 7 years ago cruisy
9	Spock	18	Unknown 22m	Tony Williams 16 years ago needs cleaning and rebolting
10	Meanwhile	15	Unknown 20m
11	Usul	22	Unknown 22m	Tony Williams 9 years ago cleaned route and inspected bolts-some need replacing. Worked all the moves but needs more cleaning
12	I'm Still Thinking	19	Unknown 22m	Tony Williams 9 years ago needs cleaning and new bolts at chimnney. loose block is scary!
13	Kinstone Cops	12	Unknown 26m
14	About This Climb	17	Unknown 26m
15	Teleport Now!	21	Unknown 23m	Tony Williams 9 years ago No way 21 as described in guide, boulder is gone! Now has 2 extra rings at cave start and goes at...
16	X-Wing FA: Tony Williams,	23	Unknown 25m	Vanessa Wills 7 months ago While in the area fresh I finally ticked this pumpy arete Vanessa Wills 5 years ago Too hot, too tired etc, but worth coming back for
17	Avon	22	Unknown 25m
18	Rassilon	18 M1	Aid 22m	Tony Williams 15 years ago This climb is now history. Railway pin and piton in hole were classics. Rebolted 1/5/05. Goes fre...
19	The Tardis Formerly the aid route Rassilon. Starts at Tardis paint.4 RB's straight up to lower offs. Sharp rock through crux with technical moves. FA: Tony Williams, 2005	21	Unknown 13m	Tony Williams 4 years ago Broke hold, fell off at 2nd ring and landed on VW's head! Tony Williams 4 years ago 3rd shot. Might be 22? Goey at start.
20	Daygobar System	20	Unknown 23m	Tony Williams 7 years ago sharp holds but great moves Tony Williams 7 years ago pumpy
21	I, Robot	22	Unknown 26m	Tony Williams 15 years ago a good rope trasher if the second falls! Needs rebolting and lower offs.
22	Shai hulud	21	Unknown 28m	Tony Williams 7 years ago Climbed and then added an extra bolt for safety on the average rock Tony Williams 8 years ago Rebolted 30/04/05 and added lower offs. Led free 6/5/05.
23	Quantum Leap	21	Unknown 18m	Tony Williams 8 years ago A mix of 3 routes! Now better to do the direct start and go to lower offs. Flakey rock. Rebolted ...
24	Quantum Leap Direct Makes Quantum Leap original obsolete. Tree is gone so a direct start is now possible. Hard overhung start to flakey rock. 4 RB's to lower offs rebolted 6/5/05. FA: Tony Williams, 2005	20	Unknown 15m	Josh Caple 7 years ago 2nd shot, very difficult to onsight for people of normal stature Tony Williams 8 years ago Makes Quantum Leap original obsolete. Straight up from ground with hard start to flakey rock. 4 R...
25	K9	20	Unknown 28m	Tony Williams 15 years ago needs rebolting and lower offs.
26	Climb it Again, Sam	18	Unknown 30m	Tony Williams 15 years ago fuck what a skocker. Pitons bashed in drilled holes! Needs a clean, rebolt and lower offs
27	Louis, I Think This is the Start of a Beautiful Friendship	20	Unknown 29m
28	Of All the Tea Rooms in All the Towns in All the World, She Had to Walk into Mine	18	Unknown 28m
29	Stuff Dreams Are Made Of	13	Unknown 29m	Tony Williams 15 years ago nightmares more like!
30	Plas-Y-Cymro (pitch 1) FA: Tony Williams/ Nora Adam,	17	Unknown 23m	Tony Williams 9 years ago First accent of crack right of Casablanca Slab and The Dalek arete. Slabby start to crack left of...
31	Plas-Y-Cymro (pitch 2) FA: Tony Williams,	18	Unknown 10m	Tony Williams 9 years ago from belay of pitch 1 go up weakness. one move wonder with cruxy crossover move to gain jugs and ...

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style	Area
6	Bowel	Unknown 22m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
8	Solitary Man	Unknown 32m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Bib	Unknown 20m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Drifter	Unknown 15m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	I.W.Y. - 1975	Unknown 25m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Mark 1	Unknown 25m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Mastaba	Unknown 25m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Nite Sorter	Unknown 10m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Postman	Unknown 15m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Regicide	Unknown 25m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Sham	Unknown 25m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Summer Rain	Unknown 10m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	The Hollow Grin	Unknown 23m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Almost Up	Unknown 50m	1.4.1. Western Cliff
	The Pinnacle	Unknown 25m	1.4.1. Western Cliff
9	Travelling Salvation	Unknown 32m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Roar	Unknown 20m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	The Last Great Chimney Struggle	Unknown 23m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
10	Song Sung Blue	Unknown 25m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Alfa	Unknown 12m	1.2. Hartley Heights
	Corner	Unknown 15m	1.2. Hartley Heights
	Mail Box	Unknown 15m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	No Bra	Unknown 15m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Other World	Unknown 50m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	The Vertical Smile	Unknown 22m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Swags Up!	Unknown 25m	1.6. The Poetry Strip
	Spit the Dog	Unknown 15m	1.8. The Tardis
11	Comeback	Unknown 20m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Euclyd	Unknown 25m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Mooktar	Unknown 30m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Rip	Unknown 25m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Wipeout	Unknown 40m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Itchy	Unknown 45m	1.4.1. Western Cliff
	Ramadhan	Unknown 15m	1.8. The Tardis
12	Teinkletoes	Unknown 15m	1.3. Kerosene Wall
	Haruno	Unknown 20m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Kalif	Unknown 20m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Promenade	Unknown 25m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Rumble	Unknown 20m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	The Original Scrooge	Unknown 45m	1.4.1. Western Cliff
	A Bit Extra	Trad 18m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	DOR Left arête variant	Trad 42m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	DOR Right arête variant	Trad 42m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Day of Redemption	Trad 42m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Day of Redemption (Left Arete Variant)	Unknown 40m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Day of Redemption (Right Arete Variant)	Unknown 42m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Kinstone Cops	Unknown 26m	1.8. The Tardis
13	Aladin	Unknown 10m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Arabian Knight	Unknown 36m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Befuddled	Unknown 50m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Bemused	Unknown 25m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Black Pig	Unknown 30m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Blue Bird	Unknown 25m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Breezy	Unknown 40m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Effervevescence	Unknown 20m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Linda	Unknown 10m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Pandora	Unknown 30m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Peep Show	Unknown 25m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Thurba	Unknown	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Zephyr	Unknown 15m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Pokerface	Unknown 60m	1.4.1. Western Cliff
	Salamay, Dalamay, Adonay	Unknown 18m	1.8. The Tardis
	Stuff Dreams Are Made Of	Unknown 29m	1.8. The Tardis
14	Ophicardelus	Unknown 25m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Play Me	Unknown 18m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Porcupine Pie	Unknown 30m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Access Route	Unknown 8m	1.2. Hartley Heights
	Murph's Idea	Unknown 8m	1.2. Hartley Heights
	Where's Wilber?	Unknown 15m	1.2. Hartley Heights
	Almost Certainly 5th Street	Unknown 35m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Boardwalk	Unknown 30m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Breakaway	Unknown 20m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Earnest	Unknown 15m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Odds 'n' Sods	Unknown 30m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Sandman	Unknown 20m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Sherazade	Unknown 20m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Taralay	Unknown 25m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Vanity Fair	Unknown 25m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Pruneface	Unknown 60m	1.4.1. Western Cliff
	A Bit On The Side	Trad 22m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	All Most A Legend	Trad 42m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Cirquinox	Unknown 46m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Fancy Dancers	Trad 43m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Fat Fingers	Trad 60m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Ivory Tower	Trad 55m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Rum Rebellion	Unknown 60m	1.7. Peek-A-Boo Buttress
14 M1	Bewildered	Aid 50m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
15	Canta Libre	Unknown 30m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	27	Unknown 15m	1.2. Hartley Heights
	Stark	Unknown 15m	1.2. Hartley Heights
	Evidently Chicken Town	Unknown 10m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Frank	Unknown 15m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Hair Raiser	Unknown 25m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Sandpiper	Unknown 25m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Vanity Fair Variant Start	Unknown 10m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	AAL Diagonal Variation	Trad 50m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	All Most A Legend (Diagonal Variation)	Unknown 50m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Black Velvet	Trad 50m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Rave on Mr Yates	Trad 40m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	The Magic Pudding	Unknown 35m	1.7. Peek-A-Boo Buttress
	Meanwhile	Unknown 20m	1.8. The Tardis
16	Holly Holy	Unknown 32m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Morningside	Unknown 25m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Red, Red Wine	Unknown 32m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Beats Painting	Unknown 8m	1.2. Hartley Heights
	Stillsons	Unknown 8m	1.2. Hartley Heights
	Wilber View	Unknown 10m	1.2. Hartley Heights
	Princes Leiaway	Unknown 15m	1.3. Kerosene Wall
	Avanti	Unknown 25m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Bothered	Unknown 35m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Good Show	Unknown 10m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Hagar	Unknown 25m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	In Imoralities Name	Unknown 40m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Wingeel	Unknown 10m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Mumbles	Unknown 40m	1.4.1. Western Cliff
	Age of Consent	Trad 50m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Mr Yates Right Wall	Unknown 30m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Winter Magic	Trad 45m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Lightning Ridge	Unknown 25m	1.7. Peek-A-Boo Buttress
	No Barrier	Unknown 20m	1.7. Peek-A-Boo Buttress
	They're a Weird Mob	Unknown 55m	1.7. Peek-A-Boo Buttress
	Kirk	Unknown 19m	1.8. The Tardis
17	Electrostatic Axila	Sport 15m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Soolaimon	Unknown 32m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Sweet Caroline	Unknown 32m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Grid Lock	Unknown 15m	1.2. Hartley Heights
	It's the Red Roof	Unknown 15m	1.2. Hartley Heights
	The Industrial Revolution	Unknown 15m	1.3. Kerosene Wall
	Bewitched	Unknown 30m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Caribou	Unknown 60m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Lancinate	Unknown 25m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Positively 4th Street	Unknown 35m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Ragnar	Unknown 20m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Valhalla	Unknown 20m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Warlord	Unknown 20m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Aerial Manoeuvres	Trad 45m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Bringabeeralong	Trad 45m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Covert Corner	Trad 40m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Dances with Myths	Trad 25m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Dawn Patrol	Trad 45m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	FD Direct	Trad 40m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Fancy Dancers (Direct Start)	Unknown 40m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Robin Corner	Trad 40m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Salivation Army	Unknown 28m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	South End	Unknown 30m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	For the Word Had Got Around	Unknown 25m	1.6. The Poetry Strip
	Poet's Corner	Unknown 25m	1.6. The Poetry Strip
	The Timeless Land	Unknown 55m	1.7. Peek-A-Boo Buttress
	We of the Never Never	Unknown 20m	1.7. Peek-A-Boo Buttress
	About This Climb	Unknown 26m	1.8. The Tardis
	Klingons	Unknown 18m	1.8. The Tardis
	Plas-Y-Cymro (pitch 1)	Unknown 23m	1.8. The Tardis
17 M1	Done Too Soon	Aid 30m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
18	Cracklin' Rosie	Unknown 30m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Shilo	Unknown 32m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Spinulosa Spindrift	Unknown 32m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	I Should Be Painting	Unknown 15m	1.2. Hartley Heights
	Liverwust	Unknown 25m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Rapunzel	Unknown 25m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	The Lord is My Shepherd	Unknown 25m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Araluen Peach	Trad 45m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Balance of Power	Trad 48m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Black Magic	Trad 50m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Give Yourself an Uppercut	Trad 65m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Hidden Corner	Trad 26m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Hyperbole	Trad 29m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Rotten Jonny	Unknown 40m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Sandstone Cowboys	Trad 45m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	There and Black Again	Trad 46m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Prince of Whips	Unknown 25m	1.6. The Poetry Strip
	Cullenbenbong	Unknown 20m	1.7. Peek-A-Boo Buttress
	Landlopers	Unknown 20m	1.7. Peek-A-Boo Buttress
	Wild Cat Falling	Unknown 70m	1.7. Peek-A-Boo Buttress
	Climb it Again, Sam	Unknown 30m	1.8. The Tardis
	Of All the Tea Rooms in All the Towns in All the World, She Had to Walk into Mine	Unknown 28m	1.8. The Tardis
	Plas-Y-Cymro (pitch 2)	Unknown 10m	1.8. The Tardis
	Spock	Unknown 22m	1.8. The Tardis
	The Enterprise	Unknown 19m	1.8. The Tardis
18 M1	Rassilon	Aid 22m	1.8. The Tardis
19	Gasping	Unknown 8m	1.2. Hartley Heights
	Piece of Pierce	Unknown 12m	1.2. Hartley Heights
	The Great Crusade	Unknown 15m	1.2. Hartley Heights
	Seven Seconds to Impact	Unknown 23m	1.3. Kerosene Wall
	Spock in a Beanie	Unknown 20m	1.3. Kerosene Wall
	Nark	Unknown 30m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Black Gold	Trad 50m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Black Tie Affair	Trad 48m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Delusions of Grandeur	Trad 50m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	French Corner	Trad 20m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Hymns to the Silence	Trad 40m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Maiden Voyage	Unknown 52m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Status Seekers	Trad 48m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Unknown Climb	Trad	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Unknown?	Unknown 45m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Robbery Under Arms	Unknown 55m	1.7. Peek-A-Boo Buttress
	I'm Still Thinking	Unknown 22m	1.8. The Tardis
	Orthanc	Unknown 20m	1.8. The Tardis
	Orthanc Direct	Unknown 18m	1.8. The Tardis
20	The Holy Grail	Unknown 15m	1.2. Hartley Heights
	Calvin Climb (a stylish little number)	Unknown 15m	1.3. Kerosene Wall
	Jack	Unknown 23m	1.3. Kerosene Wall
	Sinbad	Unknown 25m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Daygobar System	Unknown 23m	1.8. The Tardis
	K9	Unknown 28m	1.8. The Tardis
	Louis, I Think This is the Start of a Beautiful Friendship	Unknown 29m	1.8. The Tardis
	Quantum Leap Direct	Unknown 15m	1.8. The Tardis
21	Crux Clue Clan	Unknown 25m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Something with Spiders	Sport 15m , 6	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	The Climbing Wilburys	Unknown 15m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Citizens of the Cosmos	Unknown 23m	1.3. Kerosene Wall
	halcyon daze	Unknown 20m	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	Agony of the Moment	Trad 45m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	One Owner, Goes Well	Trad 20m	1.5. Kangaroo Corner
	Quantum Leap	Unknown 18m	1.8. The Tardis
	Shai hulud	Unknown 28m	1.8. The Tardis
	Teleport Now!	Unknown 23m	1.8. The Tardis
	The Tardis	Unknown 13m	1.8. The Tardis
22	Alpaca Corner	Sport 12m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Superplasticiser	Sport 12m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Three Stooges	Unknown 15m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Tripartheid	Unknown 25m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Postcard From the Edge	Unknown 12m	1.2. Hartley Heights
	Avon	Unknown 25m	1.8. The Tardis
	I, Robot	Unknown 26m	1.8. The Tardis
	Usul	Unknown 22m	1.8. The Tardis
23	Goosed	Sport 15m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Hitlistless	Sport 15m , 5	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	The Rainbow Three	Sport 15m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Wilbury Jam	Unknown 15m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Ryobi One Kanobi	Unknown 25m	1.3. Kerosene Wall
	isle of lepers	Unknown	1.4. Dargan's Creek
	X-Wing	Unknown 25m	1.8. The Tardis
24	Gas Leak Slab	Sport 15m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Michael Bolt-On	Sport 15m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
25	Liam's Lemon	Sport 15m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Orange Slice	Sport 15m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	????	Unknown	1.4. Dargan's Creek
26	Bryzance	Sport 15m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
27	Black Heat	Sport 12m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
?	Open Project	Sport 12m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road
	Project – Mitch	Sport 12m	1.1. Hartley Vale Road

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Crag Guide for Hartley