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Description

Mainly sports routes plus a few classic cracklines.

© (rogerb)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

On the cliffline below the minor celebrities. This is the big one that Cathy had the hots for, and with good reason.

© (rogerb)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
20 ** Unearthed Trad 110m
2
18 ** Unearthed DF Trad 25m

P4. Up crack and left at top. Good rock (!), pro and climbing. Best pitch of the route.

FA: C Kritzinger, D Smith, 2004

3
22 M1 * Worrying Heights Aid 110m
5
20 Unnamed Trad 20m
6
25 Savage Bliss Trad 60m

3 pitchs

  1. 20m (22)

  2. 18m (20)

  3. 22m (25)

FFA: 2007

7

Up the middle of the middle (See guide book for remaining routes on this cliff).

Start: At the bottom of the middle. Left of the "project" shown as the leftmost route in the 2007 guidebook topo.

FA: R Bourne, 2007

8
19 Pete Rhodes Sport 25m
9
23 Hawk's Nest Sport 22m
10
22 ** Ricardo Lagos Sport 20m
11
22 Dan Rampe Sport 20m
12
20 ** Spook Trad 25m

crack to chains

FA: I Valenta, R Dunn, 2004

13
20 * A Bit like the Grose Sport 60m, 10
  1. Start as per the rift, a few moves on the slab then left up the ramp, on to wall.

  2. Up the wall on pockets and breaks. Trend right near the top. (can be linked with pitch 1)

  3. Up vague corner, then left to arete. All the way to the top on carrots or finsih up pitch 3 of the Rift if you dont have any bolt plates.

FA: Ivan Valenta, 2008

14
19 *** The Rift Sport 55m

Start: 10m left of the large block that leans on the main face.

  1. 20m (18) Up slab.

  2. 20m (19) Up wall to ledge.

  3. 15m (19) Up arete

FA: I Valenta, R Dunn, 2004

15
18 ** The Rift (Pitch 1) Sport 25m
16
17
18 * The Rift Pitch 3 Sport 20m
18
20 * Wise Crack Trad 25m

Start: Just left of the block.

FA: R Dunn, I Valenta, 2004

19

Start: Off the top of the block.

FA: I Valenta, R Dunn, 2004

20
17 * 14 Carrot Gold Trad 35m

Traverse left then up wall past carrots.

Start: At the top of Chip Off The Old Block.

FA: I Valenta, R Dunn, 2004

21
19 * Plumbers Crack Trad 26m

Up crack with natural protection then past 6 carrots to ledge and anchor as for COtOB

Start: Start at obvious left facing crack 10m right of block.

FA: R Dun, I Valenta, 2004

22
22 ** Skuzeeney Jaludek Sport 20m, 8

As for "Pumpkin Puree" then right line of rings to ledge and DRBB

23
22 *** Thing 2 Sport 65m

Good!

All Carrots

Start: 15m right of T1

  1. 17m (22) Up 'Flake' right and up to belay.

  2. 48m (20) Follow carrots and rings to top

FA: J Smoothy G Williams, 2000

24
22 *** Thing 2 - Pitch 1 Sport 20m

Up flake and then right and up. All rings

FA: John Smoothy, 2000

25
20 ** Thing 2 (pitch 2) Sport 48m

FA: J.Smoothy/ G.Williams, 2000

26
21 * Thing 1 Trad 60m

Diagonal Crack. Join pitch 1 of this with pitch 2 of next route for classy two pitch 20.

  1. 28m (20) Crack past 6 carrots and #1 & #3 friends to rings.

  2. 32m (21) Up right to slab and rings

FA: J Smoothy G Williams, 2000

27
20 ** Thing 1 (pitch 1) Trad 28m

FA: Smoothy/ Williams

28
22 ** Pumpkin Puree Sport 50m, 10
  1. Hard start on incuts

  2. Up on good rock. Take 1 bolt plate, the rest are rings.

FA: I & V Valenta, 2007

29
23 *** Leighsageezer Sport 60m

Start: Start at slab 5m left of 'Bad Blood'

  1. 23m (22) Thin Moves up slab past 9 rings to anchor

  2. 25m (23) 'Steep' climbing through a small roof to a 2 ring belay

  3. 15m (15) Easy to top but runout!

FA: I Valenta R Dun, 2004

30
31
22 ** Bad Blood Sport 40m

Start: Start at far right end of cliff under a patch of orange rock. Bad blood is the left line of bolts. Some loose Rock

  1. 25m (19) HArd move of ground the up groove and juggy wall

  2. 15m (22) Straight up steep Wall

32
19 * Bad Blood P1 Sport 25m

FA: 2004

33
18 * Fake Blood Sport 20m

Start: as for BB then right line of bolts

FA: Damien Heath, Tony Williams, 2003

34
18 * Boadicea Sport 75m

2 pitches, top out.

FA: G.Short

35
13 * Milarepa Trad 30m

Start: at 2nd pitch belay of Boadicea.

Take lots of plates.

FA: G Short, 2007

Open trips

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