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Description

A reasonably remote-feeling big cliff which catches afternoon sun when it's cold. Mainly sport routes plus a few classic cracklines.

© (rogerb)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

Approach as for Celebrity Crag, but the trail then drops down into the gully and contours around and up to the cliff. The track is not very good and not very defined - be prepared.

© (rogerb)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 ** Unearthed Trad 110m 4

A good 4-pitch gear route around the south side of Heathcliff. Bring a double set of wires and cams (a #4 cam is useful for the roof traverse on p2, but not required as there is smaller gear nearby). Beware of some loose rock on all pitches, particularly the large death block midway up p1 on the left.

  1. 20m (18) Up corner crack, belay at second shale band beneath roof crack.

  2. 20m (19) Rightward traverse under roof with feeling. Pull the corner, up to ledge.

  3. 40m (19-20) Steep crack to easy gully. Belay below yellow/orange corner.

  4. 20m (19) There are several finishes, but direct up the corner is good, despite the poor looking rock. Belay off carrots on top. Walk off.

FA: R McLoughlin, D Murphy & M Wilson, 1998

2
18 * Unearthed DF Trad 25m

P4) Up crack and left at top. Good rock (!), pro and climbing. Best pitch of the route.

FA: C Kritzinger & D Smith, 2004

3

Start in the same corner as 'Unearthed'

FA: M Wilson & R McLoughlin, 2000

4
22 M1 * Worrying Heights Trad 110m 3

Undercut corner 8m left of 'Unearthed'.

  1. 20m (20M1)

  2. 40m (22)

  3. 15m (18)

FA: M Wilson & R McLoughlin

5
20 Unnamed Trad 20m

Undercut corner 20m left of 'Unearthed'

FA: M Wilson & R McLoughlin, 2000

The following routes are on the main wall and listed from left to right

6
25 Savage Bliss Trad 60m 3

First two pitches are sport on rings, gear is needed for the third pitch.

  1. 20m (22)

  2. 18m (20)

  3. 22m (25)

Start: At left end of the crag.

FA: M Scholes, I Valenta & B Helmrich, 2007

7

Up the middle of the wall about 10m right of a big corner.

FA: R Bourne, 2007

8
19 * Pete Rhodes Sport 25m, 9

This is an access pitch to the next three routes. Start below a big pillar on the wall about 10m up.

FA: I Valenta, 2008

The next three pitches start at the anchor for 'Pete Rhodes'.

9
23 ** Hawk's Nest Sport 22m, 9

The left line of the three.

FA: I Valenta & R Dun, 2008

10
22 *** Ricardo Lagos Sport 20m, 9

The middle line and pick of the three.

FA: I Valenta, 2008

11
22 *** Dan Rampe Sport 20m, 9

The right line of the three.

FA: M Scholes & I Valenta, 2008

12
20 ** Spook Trad 25m 3

Crack to chains.

  1. 25m (20)

  2. 20m

  3. 15m

FA: I Valenta & R Dunn, 2004

13
20 * A Bit like the Grose Sport 60m 3, 10
  1. 18m Start as per 'The Rift', a few moves on the slab then left up the ramp, on to wall.

  2. 20m Up the wall on pockets and breaks. Trend right near the top. (can be linked with pitch 1)

  3. 22m Up vague corner, then left to arete. All the way to the top on carrots or finsih up pitch 3 of the Rift if you dont have any bolt plates.

FA: Ivan Valenta, 2008

14
19 *** The Rift Sport 55m 3

Start: 10m left of the large block that leans on the main face.

  1. 20m (18) Up slab.

  2. 20m (19) Up wall to ledge.

  3. 15m (19) Up arete

If you climb with double 50's you can abseil straight off the rings. A 50m rope reaches the ground.

FA: I Valenta & R Dunn, 2004

15
18 ** The Rift – P1 Sport 25m
16
17
18 ** The Rift – P3 Sport 20m
18
20 ** Wise Crack Trad 25m 2

Start: Just left of the block.

  1. 25m (20)

  2. 30m (17)

FA: R Dunn & I Valenta, 2004

19
19 ** Chip Off the Old Block Sport 25m, 10

Start: Off the top of the block. Stepping right onto slab

FA: I Valenta & R Dunn, 2004

20
17 * 14 Carrot Gold Trad 35m

Traverse left then up wall past carrots.

Start: At the top of Chip Off The Old Block.

FA: I Valenta & R Dunn, 2004

21
21 ** Centre of block Sport 15m

Step off centre of block up shallow dihedral to shared anchors with 'Chip Off the Old Block'.

22
19 ** Plumbers Crack Trad 26m

Up crack with natural protection then past 6 carrots to ledge and anchor as for 'Chip Off the Old Block'

Start: At obvious left facing crack 10m right of block.

FA: R Dun & I Valenta, 2004

23

Start: As for 'Plumbers Crack' .

  1. 30m (17)

  2. 25m (18)

  3. 25m (19)

FA: I Valenta & V Valenta

24
22 ** Pumpkin Puree Sport 50m 2, 10
  1. Hard start on incuts

  2. Up on good rock. Take 1 bolt plate, the rest are rings.

FA: I & V Valenta, 2007

25
22 ** Skuzeeney Jaludek Sport 20m, 8

As for "Pumpkin Puree" then right line of rings to ledge and DRBB

FA: I Valenta & V Valenta

26
22 ** Thing 2 Sport 65m 2

Good!

  1. 17m (22) Up 'Flake' right and up to belay.

  2. 48m (20) Follow carrots and rings to top

FA: John Smoothy & G Williams, 2000

27
22 *** Thing 2 - P1 Sport 20m

Up flake and then right and up. All rings

FA: John Smoothy, 2000

28
20 ** Thing 2 – P2 Sport 48m

FA: John Smoothy & G Williams, 2000

29
21 * Thing 1 Trad 60m 2

Diagonal Crack. Join pitch 1 of this with pitch 2 of next route for classy two pitch 20.

  1. 28m (20) Crack past 6 carrots and #1 & #3 friends to rings.

  2. 32m (21) Up right to slab and rings

FA: John Smoothy & G Williams, 2000

30
20 ** Thing 1 – P1 Trad 28m

FA: John Smoothy & G Williams

31
23 ** Leighsageezer Sport 60m 3

Start: Start at slab 5m left of 'Bad Blood'

  1. 23m (22) Thin Moves up slab past 9 rings to anchor

  2. 25m (23) 'Steep' climbing through a small roof to a 2 ring belay

  3. 15m (15) Easy to top but runout!

FA: I Valenta & R Dun, 2004

32
22 ** Leighsageezer – P1 Sport 23m
33
23 ** Leighsageezer – P2 Sport 25m
34
22 ** Bad Blood Sport 45m 2, 17

Start: At far right end of cliff under a patch of orange rock. Bad blood is the left line of bolts. Some loose rock.

  1. 25m (19) Hard move off the ground then up groove and juggy wall

  2. 20m (22) Straight up steep Wall

FA: I Valenta & R Dun, 2004

35
19 ** Bad Blood – P1 Sport 25m

FA: 2004

36
22 ** Bad Blood – P2 Sport 20m
37
18 ** Fake Blood Sport 20m, 10

Start: as for BB then right line of bolts

FA: Damien Heath & Tony Williams, 2003

38
18 Boadicea Sport 75m 2
  1. 30m (18)

  2. 40m (10)

FA: G.Short & W Williams, 2007

39
13 * Milarepa Trad 30m

Start: at 2nd pitch belay of Boadicea.

Take lots of plates.

FA: G Short, 2007

Activity

Check out what is happening in Heathcliff.