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A reasonably remote-feeling big cliff which catches afternoon sun when it's cold. Mainly sport routes plus a few classic cracklines.

© (rogerb)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.


Approach as for Celebrity Crag, but the trail then drops down into the gully and contours around and up to the cliff. The track is not very good and not very defined - be prepared.

© (rogerb)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route
20 ** Unearthed Trad 110m 4

A good 4-pitch gear route around the south side of Heathcliff. Bring a double set of wires and cams (a #4 cam is useful for the roof traverse on p2, but not required as there is smaller gear nearby). Beware of some loose rock on all pitches, particularly the large death block midway up p1 on the left.

P1- 20m (18). Up corner crack, belay at second shale band beneath roof crack. P2- 20m (19). Rightward traverse under roof with feeling. Pull the corner, up to ledge. P3- 40m (19-20). Steep crack to easy gully. Belay below yellow/orange corner. P4- 20m (19). There are several finishes, but direct up the corner is good, despite the poor looking rock. Belay off carrots on top. Walk off.

18 ** Unearthed DF Trad 25m

P4. Up crack and left at top. Good rock (!), pro and climbing. Best pitch of the route.

FA: C Kritzinger & D Smith, 2004

22 M1 * Worrying Heights Aid 110m
20 Unnamed Trad 20m
25 Savage Bliss Trad 60m

3 pitchs

  1. 20m (22)

  2. 18m (20)

  3. 22m (25)

FFA: 2007


Up the middle of the middle (See guide book for remaining routes on this cliff).

Start: At the bottom of the middle. Left of the "project" shown as the leftmost route in the 2007 guidebook topo.

FA: R Bourne, 2007

19 Pete Rhodes Sport 25m
23 Hawk's Nest Sport 22m
22 ** Ricardo Lagos Sport 20m
22 Dan Rampe Sport 20m
20 ** Spook Trad 25m

crack to chains

FA: I Valenta & R Dunn, 2004

20 * A Bit like the Grose Sport 60m 3, 10
  1. Start as per the rift, a few moves on the slab then left up the ramp, on to wall.

  2. Up the wall on pockets and breaks. Trend right near the top. (can be linked with pitch 1)

  3. Up vague corner, then left to arete. All the way to the top on carrots or finsih up pitch 3 of the Rift if you dont have any bolt plates.

FA: Ivan Valenta, 2008

19 *** The Rift Sport 55m 3

Start: 10m left of the large block that leans on the main face.

  1. 20m (18) Up slab.

  2. 20m (19) Up wall to ledge.

  3. 15m (19) Up arete

FA: I Valenta & R Dunn, 2004

18 ** The Rift (Pitch 1) Sport 25m
18 * The Rift Pitch 3 Sport 20m
20 * Wise Crack Trad 25m

Start: Just left of the block.

FA: R Dunn & I Valenta, 2004

19 ** Chip Off the Old Block Sport 25m, 10

Start: Off the top of the block. Stepping right onto slab

FA: I Valenta & R Dunn, 2004

21 ** Centre of block Sport 15m

Step off centre of block up shallow dihedral to shared anchors with COTOB.

17 * 14 Carrot Gold Trad 35m

Traverse left then up wall past carrots.

Start: At the top of Chip Off The Old Block.

FA: I Valenta & R Dunn, 2004

19 * Plumbers Crack Trad 26m

Up crack with natural protection then past 6 carrots to ledge and anchor as for COtOB

Start: Start at obvious left facing crack 10m right of block.

FA: R Dun & I Valenta, 2004

22 ** Skuzeeney Jaludek Sport 20m, 8

As for "Pumpkin Puree" then right line of rings to ledge and DRBB

22 *** Thing 2 Sport 65m 2


All Carrots

Start: 15m right of T1

  1. 17m (22) Up 'Flake' right and up to belay.

  2. 48m (20) Follow carrots and rings to top

FA: J Smoothy G Williams, 2000

22 *** Thing 2 - Pitch 1 Sport 20m

Up flake and then right and up. All rings

FA: John Smoothy, 2000

20 ** Thing 2 (pitch 2) Sport 48m

FA: J.Smoothy/ G.Williams, 2000

21 * Thing 1 Trad 60m 2

Diagonal Crack. Join pitch 1 of this with pitch 2 of next route for classy two pitch 20.

  1. 28m (20) Crack past 6 carrots and #1 & #3 friends to rings.

  2. 32m (21) Up right to slab and rings

FA: J Smoothy G Williams, 2000

20 ** Thing 1 (pitch 1) Trad 28m

FA: Smoothy/ Williams

22 ** Pumpkin Puree Sport 50m 2, 10
  1. Hard start on incuts

  2. Up on good rock. Take 1 bolt plate, the rest are rings.

FA: I & V Valenta, 2007

23 ** Leighsageezer Sport 60m 3

Start: Start at slab 5m left of 'Bad Blood'

  1. 23m (22) Thin Moves up slab past 9 rings to anchor

  2. 25m (23) 'Steep' climbing through a small roof to a 2 ring belay

  3. 15m (15) Easy to top but runout!

FA: I Valenta R Dun, 2004

22 ** Bad Blood Sport 40m 2, 17

Start: Start at far right end of cliff under a patch of orange rock. Bad blood is the left line of bolts. Some loose Rock

  1. 25m (19) HArd move of ground the up groove and juggy wall

  2. 15m (22) Straight up steep Wall

19 * Bad Blood P1 Sport 25m

FA: 2004

18 ** Fake Blood Sport 20m, 10

Start: as for BB then right line of bolts

FA: Damien Heath & Tony Williams, 2003

18 * Boadicea Sport 75m

2 pitches, top out.

FA: G.Short

13 * Milarepa Trad 30m

Start: at 2nd pitch belay of Boadicea.

Take lots of plates.

FA: G Short, 2007


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