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Table of contents

1. Heathcliff 36 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.268980, -33.627315

Description:© (rogerb)

Mainly sports routes plus a few classic cracklines.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach:© (rogerb)

On the cliffline below the minor celebrities. This is the big one that Cathy had the hots for, and with good reason.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Unearthed 20Trad 110m
2 ** Unearthed DF

P4. Up crack and left at top. Good rock (!), pro and climbing. Best pitch of the route.

FA: C Kritzinger, D Smith, 2004

18Trad 25m
3 * Worrying Heights 22 M1Aid 110m
4 Blind Leading the Blind 22Trad 30m
5 Unnamed 20Trad 20m
6 Savage Bliss

3 pitchs

  1. 20m (22)

  2. 18m (20)

  3. 22m (25)

FFA: 2007

25Trad 60m
7 *** Spurs of Barren Jangling

Up the middle of the middle (See guide book for remaining routes on this cliff).

Start: At the bottom of the middle. Left of the "project" shown as the leftmost route in the 2007 guidebook topo.

FA: R Bourne, 2007

23Sport 35m
8 Pete Rhodes 19Sport 25m
9 Hawk's Nest 23Sport 22m
10 ** Ricardo Lagos 22Sport 20m
11 Dan Rampe 22Sport 20m
12 ** Spook

crack to chains

FA: I Valenta, R Dunn, 2004

20Trad 25m
13 * A Bit like the Grose
  1. Start as per the rift, a few moves on the slab then left up the ramp, on to wall.

  2. Up the wall on pockets and breaks. Trend right near the top. (can be linked with pitch 1)

  3. Up vague corner, then left to arete. All the way to the top on carrots or finsih up pitch 3 of the Rift if you dont have any bolt plates.

FA: Ivan Valenta, 2008

20Sport 60m 3, 10
14 *** The Rift

Start: 10m left of the large block that leans on the main face.

  1. 20m (18) Up slab.

  2. 20m (19) Up wall to ledge.

  3. 15m (19) Up arete

FA: I Valenta, R Dunn, 2004

19Sport 55m 3
15 ** The Rift (Pitch 1) 18Sport 25m
16 *** The Rift Pitch 2 19Sport
17 * The Rift Pitch 3 18Sport 20m
18 * Wise Crack

Start: Just left of the block.

FA: R Dunn, I Valenta, 2004

20Trad 25m
19 ** Chip Off the Old Block

Start: Off the top of the block. Stepping right onto slab

FA: I Valenta, R Dunn, 2004

19Sport 25m, 10
20 Centre of block

Step off centre of block up shallow dihedral to shared anchors with COTOB.

21Sport 15m
21 * 14 Carrot Gold

Traverse left then up wall past carrots.

Start: At the top of Chip Off The Old Block.

FA: I Valenta, R Dunn, 2004

17Trad 35m
22 * Plumbers Crack

Up crack with natural protection then past 6 carrots to ledge and anchor as for COtOB

Start: Start at obvious left facing crack 10m right of block.

FA: R Dun, I Valenta, 2004

19Trad 26m
23 ** Skuzeeney Jaludek

As for "Pumpkin Puree" then right line of rings to ledge and DRBB

22Sport 20m, 8
24 *** Thing 2


All Carrots

Start: 15m right of T1

  1. 17m (22) Up 'Flake' right and up to belay.

  2. 48m (20) Follow carrots and rings to top

FA: J Smoothy G Williams, 2000

22Sport 65m 2
25 *** Thing 2 - Pitch 1

Up flake and then right and up. All rings

FA: John Smoothy, 2000

22Sport 20m
26 ** Thing 2 (pitch 2)

FA: J.Smoothy/ G.Williams, 2000

20Sport 48m
27 * Thing 1

Diagonal Crack. Join pitch 1 of this with pitch 2 of next route for classy two pitch 20.

  1. 28m (20) Crack past 6 carrots and #1 & #3 friends to rings.

  2. 32m (21) Up right to slab and rings

FA: J Smoothy G Williams, 2000

21Trad 60m 2
28 ** Thing 1 (pitch 1)

FA: Smoothy/ Williams

20Trad 28m
29 ** Pumpkin Puree
  1. Hard start on incuts

  2. Up on good rock. Take 1 bolt plate, the rest are rings.

FA: I & V Valenta, 2007

22Sport 50m 2, 10
30 ** Leighsageezer

Start: Start at slab 5m left of 'Bad Blood'

  1. 23m (22) Thin Moves up slab past 9 rings to anchor

  2. 25m (23) 'Steep' climbing through a small roof to a 2 ring belay

  3. 15m (15) Easy to top but runout!

FA: I Valenta R Dun, 2004

23Sport 60m 3
31 ** Leighsageezer Pitch 1 22Sport 25m
32 ** Bad Blood

Start: Start at far right end of cliff under a patch of orange rock. Bad blood is the left line of bolts. Some loose Rock

  1. 25m (19) HArd move of ground the up groove and juggy wall

  2. 15m (22) Straight up steep Wall

22Sport 40m 2, 17
33 * Bad Blood P1

FA: 2004

19Sport 25m
34 * Fake Blood

Start: as for BB then right line of bolts

FA: Damien Heath, Tony Williams, 2003

18Sport 20m, 10
35 * Boadicea

2 pitches, top out.

FA: G.Short

18Sport 75m
36 * Milarepa

Start: at 2nd pitch belay of Boadicea.

Take lots of plates.

FA: G Short, 2007

13Trad 30m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
13 * Milarepa Trad 30m
17 * 14 Carrot Gold Trad 35m
18 * Boadicea Sport 75m
* Fake Blood Sport 20m, 10
** The Rift (Pitch 1) Sport 25m
* The Rift Pitch 3 Sport 20m
** Unearthed DF Trad 25m
19 * Bad Blood P1 Sport 25m
** Chip Off the Old Block Sport 25m, 10
Pete Rhodes Sport 25m
* Plumbers Crack Trad 26m
*** The Rift Sport 55m 3
*** The Rift Pitch 2 Sport
20 * A Bit like the Grose Sport 60m 3, 10
** Spook Trad 25m
** Thing 1 (pitch 1) Trad 28m
** Thing 2 (pitch 2) Sport 48m
** Unearthed Trad 110m
Unnamed Trad 20m
* Wise Crack Trad 25m
21 Centre of block Sport 15m
* Thing 1 Trad 60m 2
22 ** Bad Blood Sport 40m 2, 17
Blind Leading the Blind Trad 30m
Dan Rampe Sport 20m
** Leighsageezer Pitch 1 Sport 25m
** Pumpkin Puree Sport 50m 2, 10
** Ricardo Lagos Sport 20m
** Skuzeeney Jaludek Sport 20m, 8
*** Thing 2 Sport 65m 2
*** Thing 2 - Pitch 1 Sport 20m
22 M1 * Worrying Heights Aid 110m
23 Hawk's Nest Sport 22m
** Leighsageezer Sport 60m 3
*** Spurs of Barren Jangling Sport 35m
25 Savage Bliss Trad 60m