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Description

A great little area 5 mins from Bardens. Also known as Land of the Giants.

Access issues inherited from Bardens Lookout

* Temporary Access Change * Following the 2013 bushfires, the Collit's Crevasse and Lawson's Gully areas are no longer accessible from the main stairway entrance to Bardens (i.e., you can't turn right at the bottom of the stairs). Please respect the re-vegetation effort. Access to these areas is possible via Wentworth's Gully in Mt. York.

©

Approach

Either access by following the cliffline from Bardens proper or via Coxs Rd (walking track) from Bardens Lookout or New York parking areas. Please use existing parking areas.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

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Routes

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Grade Route

Leftmost of the 3 slabs before BtB

FA: M Warren, 2011

Right of TCtFB.

FA: S Puchala, 2011

Rightmost of the slabs. Shares an anchor with Back to Back. Hard moves to gain upper slab if short

FA: Roslin Forrest, 2011

Great beginners route.

Start: Easy corner to lower off.

FA: R.Young & S.Morton, 1985

On the left hand end of the 'Nowra' looking wall.

Start: Do everthing you can to avoid climbing the corner (Back to Back)!

FA: S Hawkshaw, 2000

FA: J.Jackson, 2011

Start: 5m right at the giant '24'!

FA: E Rutherford, 2009

FA: S Puchala, 2011

Start: Opposite the tree.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1984

Start: Right again at the giant '27'

FA: E Rutherford, 2009

Lefthand route on short grey wall before the chimney. Climb at undercut orange rock. Take care with the rock. Warning: The juggy hold right of the bolt is now loose and there are cracks in the block holding the 1st bolt.

FA: Jack Taylor & Damien Taylor, 2012

Righthand route on short grey wall. Take care with the rock.

FA: Jack Taylor & Damien Taylor, 2012

Open corner and roof on the orange buttress.

FA: S Meng, 2013

Originally graded 24, but clearly something has snapped off as it's at least 26 now. Bolted arete 1m left of Casper's corner. Starts up the short arete to ledge. Scary clip of next bolt, then up face to dyno move to roof??!! Hard move left above roof then easy crimpy face to cracked bulge up high. Has repelled some serious contenders.

FA: R.Young, 1998

50m R of Tree Beard. Big orange corner, wall, roof and thin wall above.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1983

Great litle route with a seemingly hard to read crux.

Start: 5m right of 'Casper'.

FA: j Smoothy, 2011

Blunt arete 5m right of Shebang. Arete, corner, bulge and slab!

FA: M Warren, 2012

A couple of holds have now broken off and the route is not well bolted.

Start: 10m left of the corner.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1983

15m R Q. Thin. Start on right hand side, at FHs, traverse left, crossing the ringbolted line of CCatMG. Then up, right of the arete with fingery, strenuous climbing up the wall above. A tad chossy in parts but worthwhile. Lower off.

FA: John Smoothy, Glenn Short & Giles Bradbury, 2011

Route directly up the middle of the wall on rings. Fixed hanger route starts on the right and traverses across.

FA: S Puchala, 2011

Easy corner passing bushes to the top.

FA: M Warren, 2011

Old style slabbing with a million ring bolts. Pull gently on the pedestal and leave the goat alone.

Start: Middle of grey slab 3m right of the corner.

FA: Jacindie Jackson, 2011

Up on blocks, through slab and up to bolt. Then traverse right crossing OO to lower-off.

Start: On the Grey wall left of OO. 2 pitches. Details unknown for this climb...?

  1. 10m (17)

  2. 15m (6) Up grey slab to more lower offs.

FA: W Rutherford, 2009

Corner crack, arete, crack to top.

Start: Corner with fixed hanger.

FA: R.young & A.Prehn, 1983

Start: 3m right of 'Odie Odour'

FA: Unknown, 2011

Orange corner, rooflet and flake.

FA: M.Warren, 2011

Start: 15m right, to the right of roof capped corner.

FA: Unknown, 2011

FA: P. Mort & G. Short, 2012

Start: Obvious 2m right of the project.

FA: J Smoothy, 2011

Probably the reason you came here. Should get heaps of ascents. At very end of the ledge. Up the middle of the undercut orange wall. Rebolted on rings 2011.

FA: M Stacey & L McManus, 1989

Up AK, and then move right above undercut. Up the thin wall just left of arete.

Access is via the lower level, just past A&K. Start in right-facing corner above track 5 m left of Monkey Grip.

FA: M. Franklin & A. Simson, 2013

Activity

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