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Description

A great little area 5 mins from Bardens. Also known as Land of the Giants.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

Either access by following the cliffline from Bardens proper or via Coxs Rd (walking track) from Bardens Lookout or New York parking areas. Please use existing parking areas.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
10
5
22m

Routes

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Grade Route
2

Leftmost of the 3 slabs before BtB

FA: M Warren, 2011

3
15 Dirty Beasts Sport 17m

Right of TCtFB.

FA: S Puchala, 2011

4

Rightmost of the slabs. Shares an anchor with Back to Back.

FA: Roslin Forrest, 2011

5
14 * Back to Back Trad 20m

Great beginners route.

Start: Easy corner to lower off.

FA: R.Young,S.Morton, 1985

6

On the left hand end of the 'Nowra' looking wall.

Start: Do everthing you can to avoid climbing the corner (Back to Back)!

FA: S Hawkshaw, 2000

7

FA: J.Jackson, 2011

8
24 * TheTwentyFour Sport 10m

Start: 5m right at the giant '24'!

FA: E Rutherford, 2009

9
20 ** Starseed Sport 11m

FA: S Puchala, 2011

10
21 Tree Beard Sport 30m

Start: Opposite the tree.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1984

11
25 * TheTwentySeven Sport 12m

Start: Right again at the giant '27'

FA: E Rutherford, 2009

12
18 Awesome Daddy Sport 10m

Lefthand route on short grey wall before the chimney. Climb at undercut orange rock. Take care with the rock.

FA: Jack Taylor, Damien Taylor, 2012

13
17 Thanks Mum Sport 13m

Righthand route on short grey wall. Take care with the rock.

FA: Jack Taylor, Damien Taylor, 2012

14
25 Thirty Eight Sport 17m

Open corner and roof on the orange buttress.

FA: S Meng, 2013

15
24 ** All the Madmen Sport 25m

Start: Left of 'Casper'.

FA: R.Young, 1998

16
21 * Casper Sport 25m

Corner, wall, roof and thin wall above.

Start: 4m LEFT of 'Quicksilver'.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1983

17
21 * Shabang Sport 25m

Great litle route with a seemingly hard to read crux.

Start: 5m right of 'Casper'.

FA: j Smoothy, 2011

18
21 When I Was A Cowboy Sport 18m

Blunt arete 5m right of Shebang. Arete, corner, bulge and slab!

FA: M Warren, 2012

19
23 R ** Quicksilver Sport 30m

A couple of holds have now broken off and the route is not well bolted.

Start: 10m left of the corner.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1983

20
22 Scooter Fun Sport 20m

15m R Q. Thin. Start on right hand side, at FHs, traverse left, crossing the ringbolted line of CCatMG. Then up, right of the arete with fingery, strenuous climbing up the wall above. A tad chossy in parts but worthwhile. Lower off.

FA: John Smoothy, Glenn Short, Giles Bradbury, 2011

21

Route directly up the middle of the wall on rings. Fixed hanger route starts on the right and traverses across.

FA: S Puchala, 2011

22
10 A4 Trad 25m

Easy corner passing bushes to the top.

FA: M Warren, 2011

23
16 * Trick of the Light Sport 20m

Old style slabbing with a million ring bolts! Please dont too hard on the pedestal! Oh, and leave the goat alone.

Start: Middle of grey slab 3m right of the corner.

FA: Jacindie Jackson, 2011

24

Up on blocks, through slab and up to bolt. Then traverse right crossing OO to lower-off.

Start: On the Grey wall left of OO. 2 pitches. Details unknown for this climb...?

  1. 10m (17)

  2. 15m (6) Up grey slab to more lower offs.

FA: W Rutherford, 2009

25
15 * Odie Odour Trad 30m

Corner crack, arete, crack to top.

Start: Corner.

FA: R.young,A.Prehn, 1983

26
20 Funkytown Sport 10m

Start: 3m right of 'Odie Odour'

FA: Unknown, 2011

27

Orange corner, rooflet and flake.

FA: M.Warren, 2011

28
21 Movin' On Up Sport 25m

Start: 15m right, to the right of roof capped corner.

FA: Unknown, 2011

29
19 ** Use the Fork Luke Sport 15m

FA: P. Mort, G. Short, 2012

30
14 * Offwidth Joy Trad 25m

Start: Obvious 2m right of the project.

FA: J Smoothy, 2011

31
23 ** Alive 'n' Kicking Sport 25m

Probably the reason you came here. Should get heaps of ascents. At very end of the ledge. Up the middle of the undercut orange wall. Rebolted on rings 2011.

FA: M Stacey, L McManus, 1989

32
PROJECT - Bundy Sport Project 23m

Up AK, and then move right above undercut. Up the thin wall just left of arete.

33
18 Primer Sport 20m, 7

Access is via the lower level, just past A&K. Start in right-facing corner above track 5 m left of Monkey Grip.

FA: M. Franklin, A. Simson, 2013

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
12
17
25m
5

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