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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.


From POW memorial carpark. 5 mins

Cross road, right and uphill 100m to cliff and lookout. Walk right when facing out to a tree and rap in, or find your way through the scrub to the overhangs.

Climbs are east of the lookout.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!



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Grade Route

First big chimney crack east of the lookout. Finishes at tree on right

FA: W.Williams, 1992

10 The By-Pass Unknown 20m

As for FGR to ledge on left then around the arete

FA: W.Williams, 1992


Hard start up to corner left of TBP, then follow the corner and crack

FA: W.Williams, 1992

13 Take Your Mum Unknown 25m

Arete left of Some What, route goes up just left of the arete with poor pro

FA: W. Williams, 1992

17 Flaw in the Wall Unknown 25m

Thin crack right of TYM but before the gully. Follows a crack through bulges, wall before tending right.

FA: W.Williams, 1992


Start in dirty gully,

P1: To tree belay

P2: Up through cracks and blocks

FA: W.Williams, 1992

16 A Bolt From the Blue Unknown 25m

Arete left of the dirty gully

P1: up the left of the arete through bulge and up

P2: scramble off or proceed up Mixed Pleasures

FA: W.Williams, 1992


The forth corner left of the lookout using the corner and left wall

10 Waltz Up the Wall Unknown 30m

Arete right of the long wall. Up the wall just left of the arete

FA: W. Williams, 1992

13 Superannuants' Samba Unknown 25m

scramble to start on the crack on right of the main wall

FA: K. Westren, 1992

18 * Stairway to Heaven Unknown 30m

just left of SS. BR and PR

FA: W.Williams, 1992

13 The Dance Floor Unknown 90m

Start as for SS

P1: 30m - traverse left on ledge to belay in Old foxes crack. Take care

P2: 40m - across to grassy ledge

P3: 20m - up

FA: W.Williams, Kwestren & K.Westren, 1992

17 The Old Foxes Trot Unknown 30m

Up through the Sentry box in the middle of the wall, follow the crack until the end. Overhang on left

FA: W.Williams, 1992

16 A Step to the Left Unknown 40m

Pedestal 1m left of Old Foxes,

P1: 25m - up to overhang

P2: 15m - past bolt and up left

FA: W.Williams, 1992


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