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Description

Take the 'Victoria Falls' road, to the right just after passing 'Browntown' Oval (Soldier's Pinch) between 'Mt Boyce' and Mt 'Victoria' - This is a dirt road and can be a little rough on an old car - for exactly 4km until a minor vehical track is reached on the left (Signposted with a 'Management Track - Walkers Only' sign. This track is about 400m before the 'Asgard Swamp' trail. Leave your car here and walk. Follow the trail for about 3.3km until a small cliff overlooking a creek is reached. Find your way around the small cliff (cairns) and down through some swampy ground, across the creek and up the hill to the cliff line. The gully as you get to the cliff line is one of only 2 ways to the top of the cliffs, other than climbing that is! Head right beneath the overhangs until the climbing area is reached.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Corner to belay under roof. 2). Left under roof, up thin crack, right to corner and up.

Start: Big orange corner opposite the detached block.

FA: S.Moon & M.Law, 1992

  1. 24m (20) Corner to bolt, left to arete.

  2. 35m (24) Arete to chain.

  3. 28m (24) Left edge of cave to roof, right, then the arete to DBB. To rap from here take 'hero' loops. Rap to chain then to ground 50m!!

Start: 30m right of TM. 'Arete'.

FA: M.Law & M.Stacey, 1992

  1. Up to ledge.

  2. Flakes to roof, up, right on loose block and up to chain.

  3. Ramp to arete, to big ledge, up wall, left around roofs then right across wall to rap point. Double Ropes?

Start: 15m right of TS. Cairn & flake.

FA: M.Law & V.Kondos, 1993

Start: Right of S. Up the prow.

FA: S.Moon, 1999

"A surprisingly long climb despite appearances from below. Two fairly good pitches...spoiled somewhat by a scrappy finish."

Start: Clean wide crack leading to a V groove with a bush in it.

FA: M.Colyvan & A.Penney, 1982

  1. 30m (17) Start up PV to the ledge, then up the arete to to the R passing 2 BR.

  2. 40m (16) Continue up PV to ledge (ignoring bolt on wall to L, which is a gr 20 variant), then L to crack. Follow crack through roof, and continue until it is blocked by vegetation. Head up and L across slab past bolt to large ledge (1 bolt + cam belay).

  3. 25m (19) Up face past 2 bolts, then 15 m left along ledge to 2 bolt belay. Good nut to avoid big swing for second.

  4. 20m (15) Carefully up face passing bolt and a couple of cam breaks to 2 bolt belay at top.

FA: Duanne White, Scott Young & Dale Tweedie, 2005

Start 2 m R of PV, up pockets past bolt to ledge. up to next ledge past bolt, then R to shallow R facing corner/flake. L up this past BR to PV pitch 1 ledge & 2 rings.

FA: Dale Tweedie & Duanne White, 2005

Up corner to slings.

Start: Big orange corner 30m right again.

Probably the first climb here. The aid at the start of the second pitch was freed by Joe Friend.

Start: 33m right at obvious yellow crack/corner system.

FA: B.Allen in the's & freed in the 70's., 1960

Sustained and varied climbing up a truly superb finger crack.

Start: 7m right again at short crack in block.

FA: R.Young, A.Prehn & M.Burton, 1980

...they must have been fighting for it!

Start: 7m right.

FA: G.James, A.McAuley, M.Moore, D.Lawler, R.McKillop & G.Benett, 1995

Crack to ledge. Traverse left to 'Jezabel' belay bolts.

Start: Halfway up the ramp.

FA: E.Garbett & M.Wilson, 1992

FA: Duanne White & Liz Drummond, 2005

An amazing line and excellent climbing.

Start: Left facing corner 25m right of A.

FA: K.Bell & his brother., 1979

Crack to ledge 2). 'Diagonal' finger crack to fixed wires.

Start: From the top of the block, 10m right of BO.

FA: M.Wilson, 1994

Whoopy!

Start: 43m right of BO. Crack/groove system below a terrifying roof.

FA: Keith Bell (pitches 1&3) Ian Thomas (pitch 2)

"The climb that Ikara is famous for and the only one that most people have heard of!" - A.Penney 1982

Start: Crack 33m right of T.

FA: Keith Bell & Ian Thomas

Up to L&W, across this right and up wall and flakes.

Start: On right side of arete right of K.

FA: M.Wilson & B.Harrington, 1992

Crack and flake, then left joining K.

Start: 2.5m right of previous route.

FA: A.Mason, C.Bennett & R.Lebreton, 1985

Start: 'Arete' right of CT. Carrots.

FA: G.James & W.Stevens, 1996

"An excellent excursion for a hot day. Some tube runners are useful on the 2nd pitch."

Start: Right facing corner about 30m past K. Scramble to base of corner.

FA: C.Dale & A.Penney, 1983

Crack to offwidth and belay where crack becomes slabby. 2). Up and right around arete, wall and arete, left at last bolt and up to belay. Rap here or continue up crack as for WM.

Start: Right again. Crack and peapod.

FA: S.Wilson & K.Luck, 2001

Around roof and up crack - possible to belay where wall becomes a slab - 'Small' corner, traverse right along obvious break 10m, diagonally right across to corner and up. Take Care!

Start: 90m right of K.

FA: W.Baird & G.Bradbury, 1979

A Varied climb with a bit of everything.

Start: 65m right of of WC. Shale band with roof crack above.

FA: P.Young & A.Prehn, 1982

To block, corner, crack, left to ledge and rap.

Start: 150m right again. Track below steep crack right os small black chimney.

FA: N.Deka & B.Cameron, 1988

Wide crack, blocks, thin crack (aid) to ledge. 2). Zig zag crack then right to belay. 3). Up.

Start: 20m right again.

FA: B.Cameron & N.Deka, 1988

Probably done before, but it's a decent line and worth recording.

Crack, ~ 2m to the right of the R facing corner almost directly below 'Blast Off'. Up the clean hand/off width crack to ledge.

Start: Back on the ground below the block

FA: FRA Duanne White, 2006

Activity

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