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Description

Take the 'Victoria Falls' road, to the right just after passing 'Browntown' Oval (Soldier's Pinch) between 'Mt Boyce' and Mt 'Victoria' - This is a dirt road and can be a little rough on an old car - for exactly 4km until a minor vehical track is reached on the left (Signposted with a 'Management Track - Walkers Only' sign. This track is about 400m before the 'Asgard Swamp' trail. Leave your car here and walk. Follow the trail for about 3.3km until a small cliff overlooking a creek is reached. Find your way around the small cliff (cairns) and down through some swampy ground, across the creek and up the hill to the cliff line. The gully as you get to the cliff line is one of only 2 ways to the top of the cliffs, other than climbing that is! Head right beneath the overhangs until the climbing area is reached.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
24 ** The Mooing Sport 50m

Corner to belay under roof. 2). Left under roof, up thin crack, right to corner and up.

Start: Big orange corner opposite the detached block.

FA: S.Moon,M.Law, 1992

2
24 ** The Squealing Sport 87m

Corner to bolt, left to arete. 2). 'Arete' to chain. 3). Left edge of cave to roof, right, then the arete. To rap from here take 'hero' loops. Rap to chain then to ground 50m!!

Start: 30m right of TM. 'Arete'.

FA: M.Law,M.Stacey, 1992

3
21 ** Splattergram Sport 85m

Up to ledge. 2).Flakes to roof, up, right on loose block and up to chain. 3).Ramp to arete, to big ledge, up wall, left around roofs then right across wall to rap point. Double Ropes?

Start: 15m right of TS. Cairn & flake.

FA: M.Law,V.Kondos, 1993

4
26 Tuxedo Mask Trad 50m

Start: Right of S. Up the prow.

FA: S.Moon, 1999

5
17 * Power Vacuum Trad 120m

"A surprisingly long climb despite appearances from below. Two fairly good pitches...spoiled somewhat by a scrappy finish."

Start: Clean wide crack leading to a V groove with a bush in it.

FA: M.Colyvan,A.Penney, 1982

6
18 ** Sponsored by the state Mixed 110m, 6
  1. 30m (17) Start up PV to the ledge, then up the arete to to the R passing 2 BR.

  2. 40m (16) Continue up PV to ledge (ignoring bolt on wall to L, which is a gr 20 variant), then L to crack. Follow crack through roof, and continue until it is blocked by vegetation. Head up and L across slab past bolt to large ledge (1 bolt + cam belay).

  3. 25m (19) Up face past 2 bolts, then 15 m left along ledge to 2 bolt belay. Good nut to avoid big swing for second.

  4. 20m (15) Carefully up face passing bolt and a couple of cam breaks to 2 bolt belay at top.

FA: Duanne White, Scott Young, Dale Tweedie, 2005

7
20 * Club Mac Mixed 27m, 3

Start 2 m R of PV, up pockets past bolt to ledge. up to next ledge past bolt, then R to shallow R facing corner/flake. L up this past BR to PV pitch 1 ledge & 2 rings.

FA: Dale Tweedie, Duanne White, 2005

8
20 Unknown Trad 35m

Up corner to slings.

Start: Big orange corner 30m right again.

9
22 ** Jezebel Trad 100m

Probably the first climb here. The aid at the start of the second pitch was freed by Joe Friend.

Start: 33m right at obvious yellow crack/corner system.

FA: B.Allen in the's, freed in the 70's., 1960

10
22 ** Aladinsane Trad 40m

Sustained and varied climbing up a truly superb finger crack.

Start: 7m right again at short crack in block.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn,M.Burton, 1980

11
22 Fantasia Trad 40m

...they must have been fighting for it!

Start: 7m right.

FA: G.James,A.McAuley,M.Moore,D.Lawler,R.McKillop,G.Benett, 1995

12
18 Reincarnation Trad 35m

Crack to ledge. Traverse left to 'Jezabel' belay bolts.

Start: Halfway up the ramp.

FA: E.Garbett,M.Wilson, 1992

13

FA: Duanne White, Liz Drummond, 2005

14
22 *** Blast Off Trad 100m

An amazing line and excellent climbing.

Start: Left facing corner 25m right of A.

FA: K.Bell and his brother., 1979

15
20 M2 Snakes & Ladders Aid 75m

Crack to ledge 2). 'Diagonal' finger crack to fixed wires.

Start: From the top of the block, 10m right of BO.

FA: M.Wilson, 1994

16
19 *** Telstar Trad 85m

Whoopy!

Start: 43m right of BO. Crack/groove system below a terrifying roof.

FA: Keith Bell (pitches 1&3) Ian Thomas (pitch 2)

17
20 *** Caladan / Kaladan Trad 35m

"The climb that Ikara is famous for and the only one that most people have heard of!" - A.Penney 1982

Start: Crack 33m right of T.

FA: Keith Bell & Ian Thomas

18
23 Confidence Trick Trad 35m

Up to L&W, across this right and up wall and flakes.

Start: On right side of arete right of K.

FA: M.Wilson,B.Harrington, 1992

19
16 Lace & Whisky Trad 15m

Crack and flake, then left joining K.

Start: 2.5m right of previous route.

FA: A.Mason,C.Bennett,R.Lebreton, 1985

20
24 ** Serene Machine Trad 34m

Start: 'Arete' right of CT. Carrots.

FA: G.James,W.Stevens, 1996

21
17 * Waltzing Matilda Trad 80m

"An excellent excursion for a hot day. Some tube runners are useful on the 2nd pitch."

Start: Right facing corner about 30m past K. Scramble to base of corner.

FA: C.Dale,A.Penney, 1983

22
24 * The Gift Trad 28m

Crack to offwidth and belay where crack becomes slabby. 2). Up and right around arete, wall and arete, left at last bolt and up to belay. Rap here or continue up crack as for WM.

Start: Right again. Crack and peapod.

FA: S.Wilson,K.Luck, 2001

23
18 Water Closet Trad 40m

Around roof and up crack - possible to belay where wall becomes a slab - 'Small' corner, traverse right along obvious break 10m, diagonally right across to corner and up. Take Care!

Start: 90m right of K.

FA: W.Baird,G.Bradbury, 1979

24
22 Pin Ups Trad 50m

A Varied climb with a bit of everything.

Start: 65m right of of WC. Shale band with roof crack above.

FA: P.Young,A.Prehn, 1982

25
20 Lunatic Soup Trad 20m

To block, corner, crack, left to ledge and rap.

Start: 150m right again. Track below steep crack right os small black chimney.

FA: N.Deka,B.Cameron, 1988

26
19 M0 Freerider Aid 55m

Wide crack, blocks, thin crack (aid) to ledge. 2). Zig zag crack then right to belay. 3). Up.

Start: 20m right again.

FA: B.Cameron,N.Deka, 1988

27
20 Carpa Intoxicata Unknown 50m
28
20 * Bumblies ahoy Trad 20m

Probably done before, but it's a decent line and worth recording.

Crack, ~ 2m to the right of the R facing corner almost directly below 'Blast Off'. Up the clean hand/off width crack to ledge.

Start: Back on the ground below the block

FA: FRA Duanne White, 2006

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