Ikara Head Crag guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Vanessa Wills duanne white Will Monks Adrian Kladnig Adam Bramwell Campbell Gome Mic chad o'donnell Tony Williams Nick Clow

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1. Ikara Head 28 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. Ikara Head 28 routes in Crag

seasonality

Summary:: Trad,Sport and other styles
Long/Lat: 150.281815, -33.547531
Description:© (mjw): Take the 'Victoria Falls' road, to the right just after passing 'Browntown' Oval (Soldier's Pinch) between 'Mt Boyce' and Mt 'Victoria' - This is a dirt road and can be a little rough on an old car - for exactly 4km until a minor vehical track is reached on the left (Signposted with a 'Management Track - Walkers Only' sign. This track is about 400m before the 'Asgard Swamp' trail. Leave your car here and walk. Follow the trail for about 3.3km until a small cliff overlooking a creek is reached. Find your way around the small cliff (cairns) and down through some swampy ground, across the creek and up the hill to the cliff line. The gully as you get to the cliff line is one of only 2 ways to the top of the cliffs, other than climbing that is! Head right beneath the overhangs until the climbing area is reached.
Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains: The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.
Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains: Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	The Mooing Corner to belay under roof. 2). Left under roof, up thin crack, right to corner and up. Start: Big orange corner opposite the detached block. FA: S.Moon,M.Law, 1992	24	Sport 50m	Stuart McElroy 13 years ago with Moss, Greg Moore
2	The Squealing Corner to bolt, left to arete. 2). 'Arete' to chain. 3). Left edge of cave to roof, right, then the arete. To rap from here take 'hero' loops. Rap to chain then to ground 50m!! Start: 30m right of TM. 'Arete'. FA: M.Law,M.Stacey, 1992	24	Sport 87m
3	Splattergram Up to ledge. 2).Flakes to roof, up, right on loose block and up to chain. 3).Ramp to arete, to big ledge, up wall, left around roofs then right across wall to rap point. Double Ropes? Start: 15m right of TS. Cairn & flake. FA: M.Law,V.Kondos, 1993	21	Sport 85m
4	Tuxedo Mask Start: Right of S. Up the prow. FA: S.Moon, 1999	26	Trad 50m
5	Power Vacuum "A surprisingly long climb despite appearances from below. Two fairly good pitches...spoiled somewhat by a scrappy finish." Start: Clean wide crack leading to a V groove with a bush in it. FA: M.Colyvan,A.Penney, 1982	17	Trad 120m	Ian ORourke 7 years ago Only do first pitch. David Langley first pitch chimney only
6	Sponsored by the state 30m (17) Start up PV to the ledge, then up the arete to to the R passing 2 BR. 40m (16) Continue up PV to ledge (ignoring bolt on wall to L, which is a gr 20 variant), then L to crack. Follow crack through roof, and continue until it is blocked by vegetation. Head up and L across slab past bolt to large ledge (1 bolt + cam belay). 25m (19) Up face past 2 bolts, then 15 m left along ledge to 2 bolt belay. Good nut to avoid big swing for second. 20m (15) Carefully up face passing bolt and a couple of cam breaks to 2 bolt belay at top. FA: Duanne White, Scott Young, Dale Tweedie, 2005	18	Mixed 110m , 6	Tony Williams 7 years ago Like an old school classic. Runout last bit after last bolt on P1 arete. Great through roof on P... duanne white 8 years ago a winner! but i might be a little biased!
7	Club Mac Start 2 m R of PV, up pockets past bolt to ledge. up to next ledge past bolt, then R to shallow R facing corner/flake. L up this past BR to PV pitch 1 ledge & 2 rings. FA: Dale Tweedie, Duanne White, 2005	20	Mixed 27m , 3	Tony Williams 7 years ago Would be V.Good if it had another bolt just 2-3m down from last bolt. If someone falls clipping t...
8	Unknown Up corner to slings. Start: Big orange corner 30m right again.	20	Trad 35m
9	Jezebel Probably the first climb here. The aid at the start of the second pitch was freed by Joe Friend. Start: 33m right at obvious yellow crack/corner system. FA: B.Allen in the's, freed in the 70's., 1960	22	Trad 100m	Peter Webster 4 years ago stuffed it again!
10	Aladinsane Sustained and varied climbing up a truly superb finger crack. Start: 7m right again at short crack in block. FA: R.Young,A.Prehn,M.Burton, 1980	22	Trad 40m	Chris Bentham 6 years ago fell at crux...next shot for sure.... Tony Williams 8 years ago Updated my tick to a dog! Still having problems getting my fat fingers in the top of the crack. V...
11	Fantasia ...they must have been fighting for it! Start: 7m right. FA: G.James,A.McAuley,M.Moore,D.Lawler,R.McKillop,G.Benett, 1995	22	Trad 40m	Nick Clow 2 years ago Spoilt by poor rock and rope drag. The direct may be better? One of the stiffest things I've ever...
12	Reincarnation Crack to ledge. Traverse left to 'Jezabel' belay bolts. Start: Halfway up the ramp. FA: E.Garbett,M.Wilson, 1992	18	Trad 35m
13	My girlfriend's a bumbly, but she's alright FA: Duanne White, Liz Drummond, 2005	20	Unknown 15m
14	Blast Off An amazing line and excellent climbing. Start: Left facing corner 25m right of A. FA: K.Bell and his brother., 1979	22	Trad 100m	duanne white 7 years ago fun! chad o'donnell 7 years ago my first was in 89,many yrs later my girl & i truly blasted off on the 3rd blay ldge(one ...
15	Snakes & Ladders Crack to ledge 2). 'Diagonal' finger crack to fixed wires. Start: From the top of the block, 10m right of BO. FA: M.Wilson, 1994	20 M2	Aid 75m
16	Telstar Whoopy! Start: 43m right of BO. Crack/groove system below a terrifying roof. FA: Keith Bell (pitches 1&3) Ian Thomas (pitch 2),	19	Trad 85m	Taib 3 weeks ago wow. be prepared, lead the first and third pitches. left the crazy roof-offwidth to the no c... Ben Jenga 1 years ago Scary stuf but a must do. Do it now.
17	Caladan / Kaladan "The climb that Ikara is famous for and the only one that most people have heard of!" - A.Penney 1982 Start: Crack 33m right of T. FA: Keith Bell & Ian Thomas,	20	Trad 35m	Peter Webster 4 years ago been wanting 2 lead this for the last 4 yrs, blueys classic! Susy G 5 years ago With Hugh. After the morning on chilly Sail Away Ledge, we nicked off and arrived at the Ikara ca...
18	Confidence Trick Up to L&W, across this right and up wall and flakes. Start: On right side of arete right of K. FA: M.Wilson,B.Harrington, 1992	23	Trad 35m	Peter Webster 9 years ago pure shit rock, don't do it!
19	Lace & Whisky Crack and flake, then left joining K. Start: 2.5m right of previous route. FA: A.Mason,C.Bennett,R.Lebreton, 1985	16	Trad 15m
20	Serene Machine Start: 'Arete' right of CT. Carrots. FA: G.James,W.Stevens, 1996	24	Trad 34m	duanne white 4 years ago a fine line with a few hard moves
21	Waltzing Matilda "An excellent excursion for a hot day. Some tube runners are useful on the 2nd pitch." Start: Right facing corner about 30m past K. Scramble to base of corner. FA: C.Dale,A.Penney, 1983	17	Trad 80m
22	The Gift Crack to offwidth and belay where crack becomes slabby. 2). Up and right around arete, wall and arete, left at last bolt and up to belay. Rap here or continue up crack as for WM. Start: Right again. Crack and peapod. FA: S.Wilson,K.Luck, 2001	24	Trad 28m
23	Water Closet Around roof and up crack - possible to belay where wall becomes a slab - 'Small' corner, traverse right along obvious break 10m, diagonally right across to corner and up. Take Care! Start: 90m right of K. FA: W.Baird,G.Bradbury, 1979	18	Trad 40m
24	Pin Ups A Varied climb with a bit of everything. Start: 65m right of of WC. Shale band with roof crack above. FA: P.Young,A.Prehn, 1982	22	Trad 50m	Rod Young Alt leads with Ant 1982
25	Lunatic Soup To block, corner, crack, left to ledge and rap. Start: 150m right again. Track below steep crack right os small black chimney. FA: N.Deka,B.Cameron, 1988	20	Trad 20m
26	Freerider Wide crack, blocks, thin crack (aid) to ledge. 2). Zig zag crack then right to belay. 3). Up. Start: 20m right again. FA: B.Cameron,N.Deka, 1988	19 M0	Aid 55m
27	Carpa Intoxicata	20	Unknown 50m
28	Bumblies ahoy Probably done before, but it's a decent line and worth recording. Crack, ~ 2m to the right of the R facing corner almost directly below 'Blast Off'. Up the clean hand/off width crack to ledge. Start: Back on the ground below the block FA: FRA Duanne White, 2006	20	Trad 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style
16	Lace & Whisky	Trad 15m
17	Power Vacuum	Trad 120m
	Waltzing Matilda	Trad 80m
18	Reincarnation	Trad 35m
	Sponsored by the state	Mixed 110m , 6
	Water Closet	Trad 40m
19	Telstar	Trad 85m
19 M0	Freerider	Aid 55m
20	Bumblies ahoy	Trad 20m
	Caladan	Trad 35m
	Carpa Intoxicata	Unknown 50m
	Club Mac	Mixed 27m , 3
	Lunatic Soup	Trad 20m
	My girlfriend's a bumbly, but she's alright	Unknown 15m
	Unknown	Trad 35m
20 M2	Snakes & Ladders	Aid 75m
21	Splattergram	Sport 85m
22	Aladinsane	Trad 40m
	Blast Off	Trad 100m
	Fantasia	Trad 40m
	Jezebel	Trad 100m
	Pin Ups	Trad 50m
23	Confidence Trick	Trad 35m
24	Serene Machine	Trad 34m
	The Gift	Trad 28m
	The Mooing	Sport 50m
	The Squealing	Sport 87m
26	Tuxedo Mask	Trad 50m

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Crag Guide for Ikara Head

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Table of contents

1. Ikara Head 28 routes in Crag

2. Index by grade