A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide.

For more information refer to our Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Ikara Head 28 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.281815, -33.547531

Description:© (mjw)

Take the 'Victoria Falls' road, to the right just after passing 'Browntown' Oval (Soldier's Pinch) between 'Mt Boyce' and Mt 'Victoria' - This is a dirt road and can be a little rough on an old car - for exactly 4km until a minor vehical track is reached on the left (Signposted with a 'Management Track - Walkers Only' sign. This track is about 400m before the 'Asgard Swamp' trail. Leave your car here and walk. Follow the trail for about 3.3km until a small cliff overlooking a creek is reached. Find your way around the small cliff (cairns) and down through some swampy ground, across the creek and up the hill to the cliff line. The gully as you get to the cliff line is one of only 2 ways to the top of the cliffs, other than climbing that is! Head right beneath the overhangs until the climbing area is reached.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Mooing

Corner to belay under roof. 2). Left under roof, up thin crack, right to corner and up.

Start: Big orange corner opposite the detached block.

FA: S.Moon,M.Law, 1992

24Sport 50m Stuart McElroy 14 years ago

with Moss, Greg Moore

2 ** The Squealing

Corner to bolt, left to arete. 2). 'Arete' to chain. 3). Left edge of cave to roof, right, then the arete. To rap from here take 'hero' loops. Rap to chain then to ground 50m!!

Start: 30m right of TM. 'Arete'.

FA: M.Law,M.Stacey, 1992

24Sport 87m
3 ** Splattergram

Up to ledge. 2).Flakes to roof, up, right on loose block and up to chain. 3).Ramp to arete, to big ledge, up wall, left around roofs then right across wall to rap point. Double Ropes?

Start: 15m right of TS. Cairn & flake.

FA: M.Law,V.Kondos, 1993

21Sport 85m
4 Tuxedo Mask

Start: Right of S. Up the prow.

FA: S.Moon, 1999

26Trad 50m
5 * Power Vacuum

"A surprisingly long climb despite appearances from below. Two fairly good pitches...spoiled somewhat by a scrappy finish."

Start: Clean wide crack leading to a V groove with a bush in it.

FA: M.Colyvan,A.Penney, 1982

17Trad 120m Ian ORourke 8 years ago

Only do first pitch.

David Langley

first pitch chimney only

6 ** Sponsored by the state
  1. 30m (17) Start up PV to the ledge, then up the arete to to the R passing 2 BR.

  2. 40m (16) Continue up PV to ledge (ignoring bolt on wall to L, which is a gr 20 variant), then L to crack. Follow crack through roof, and continue until it is blocked by vegetation. Head up and L across slab past bolt to large ledge (1 bolt + cam belay).

  3. 25m (19) Up face past 2 bolts, then 15 m left along ledge to 2 bolt belay. Good nut to avoid big swing for second.

  4. 20m (15) Carefully up face passing bolt and a couple of cam breaks to 2 bolt belay at top.

FA: Duanne White, Scott Young, Dale Tweedie, 2005

18Mixed 110m, 6 Tony Williams 8 years ago

Like an old school classic. Runout last bit after last bolt on P1 arete. Great through roof on P...

duanne white 9 years ago

a winner! but i might be a little biased!

7 * Club Mac

Start 2 m R of PV, up pockets past bolt to ledge. up to next ledge past bolt, then R to shallow R facing corner/flake. L up this past BR to PV pitch 1 ledge & 2 rings.

FA: Dale Tweedie, Duanne White, 2005

20Mixed 27m, 3 Tony Williams 8 years ago

Would be V.Good if it had another bolt just 2-3m down from last bolt. If someone falls clipping t...

8 Unknown

Up corner to slings.

Start: Big orange corner 30m right again.

20Trad 35m
9 ** Jezebel

Probably the first climb here. The aid at the start of the second pitch was freed by Joe Friend.

Start: 33m right at obvious yellow crack/corner system.

FA: B.Allen in the's, freed in the 70's., 1960

22Trad 100m Peter Webster 5 years ago

stuffed it again!

10 ** Aladinsane

Sustained and varied climbing up a truly superb finger crack.

Start: 7m right again at short crack in block.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn,M.Burton, 1980

22Trad 40m Chris Bentham 6 years ago

fell at crux...next shot for sure....

Tony Williams 9 years ago

Updated my tick to a dog! Still having problems getting my fat fingers in the top of the crack. V...

11 Fantasia

...they must have been fighting for it!

Start: 7m right.

FA: G.James,A.McAuley,M.Moore,D.Lawler,R.McKillop,G.Benett, 1995

22Trad 40m Nick Clow 3 years ago

Spoilt by poor rock and rope drag. The direct may be better? One of the stiffest things I've ever...

12 Reincarnation

Crack to ledge. Traverse left to 'Jezabel' belay bolts.

Start: Halfway up the ramp.

FA: E.Garbett,M.Wilson, 1992

18Trad 35m
13 My girlfriend's a bumbly, but she's alright

FA: Duanne White, Liz Drummond, 2005

20Unknown 15m
14 *** Blast Off

An amazing line and excellent climbing.

Start: Left facing corner 25m right of A.

FA: K.Bell and his brother., 1979

22Trad 100m duanne white 8 years ago

fun!

chad o'donnell 8 years ago

my first was in 89,many yrs later my girl & i truly blasted off on the 3rd blay ldge(one ...

15 Snakes & Ladders

Crack to ledge 2). 'Diagonal' finger crack to fixed wires.

Start: From the top of the block, 10m right of BO.

FA: M.Wilson, 1994

20 M2Aid 75m
16 *** Telstar

Whoopy!

Start: 43m right of BO. Crack/groove system below a terrifying roof.

FA: Keith Bell (pitches 1&3) Ian Thomas (pitch 2)

19Trad 85m Taib 11 months ago

wow. be prepared, lead the first and third pitches. left the crazy roof-offwidth to the no c...

Ben Jenga 2 years ago

Scary stuf but a must do. Do it now.

17 *** Caladan / Kaladan

"The climb that Ikara is famous for and the only one that most people have heard of!" - A.Penney 1982

Start: Crack 33m right of T.

FA: Keith Bell & Ian Thomas

20Trad 35m Peter Webster 5 years ago

been wanting 2 lead this for the last 4 yrs, blueys classic!

Susy G 6 years ago

With Hugh. After the morning on chilly Sail Away Ledge, we nicked off and arrived at the Ikara ca...

18 Confidence Trick

Up to L&W, across this right and up wall and flakes.

Start: On right side of arete right of K.

FA: M.Wilson,B.Harrington, 1992

23Trad 35m Peter Webster 10 years ago

pure shit rock, don't do it!

19 Lace & Whisky

Crack and flake, then left joining K.

Start: 2.5m right of previous route.

FA: A.Mason,C.Bennett,R.Lebreton, 1985

16Trad 15m
20 ** Serene Machine

Start: 'Arete' right of CT. Carrots.

FA: G.James,W.Stevens, 1996

24Trad 34m duanne white 5 years ago

a fine line with a few hard moves

21 * Waltzing Matilda

"An excellent excursion for a hot day. Some tube runners are useful on the 2nd pitch."

Start: Right facing corner about 30m past K. Scramble to base of corner.

FA: C.Dale,A.Penney, 1983

17Trad 80m
22 * The Gift

Crack to offwidth and belay where crack becomes slabby. 2). Up and right around arete, wall and arete, left at last bolt and up to belay. Rap here or continue up crack as for WM.

Start: Right again. Crack and peapod.

FA: S.Wilson,K.Luck, 2001

24Trad 28m
23 Water Closet

Around roof and up crack - possible to belay where wall becomes a slab - 'Small' corner, traverse right along obvious break 10m, diagonally right across to corner and up. Take Care!

Start: 90m right of K.

FA: W.Baird,G.Bradbury, 1979

18Trad 40m
24 Pin Ups

A Varied climb with a bit of everything.

Start: 65m right of of WC. Shale band with roof crack above.

FA: P.Young,A.Prehn, 1982

22Trad 50m Rod Young

Alt leads with Ant 1982

25 Lunatic Soup

To block, corner, crack, left to ledge and rap.

Start: 150m right again. Track below steep crack right os small black chimney.

FA: N.Deka,B.Cameron, 1988

20Trad 20m
26 Freerider

Wide crack, blocks, thin crack (aid) to ledge. 2). Zig zag crack then right to belay. 3). Up.

Start: 20m right again.

FA: B.Cameron,N.Deka, 1988

19 M0Aid 55m
27 Carpa Intoxicata 20Unknown 50m
28 * Bumblies ahoy

Probably done before, but it's a decent line and worth recording.

Crack, ~ 2m to the right of the R facing corner almost directly below 'Blast Off'. Up the clean hand/off width crack to ledge.

Start: Back on the ground below the block

FA: FRA Duanne White, 2006

20Trad 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
16 Lace & Whisky Trad 15m
17 * Power Vacuum Trad 120m
* Waltzing Matilda Trad 80m
18 Reincarnation Trad 35m
** Sponsored by the state Mixed 110m, 6
Water Closet Trad 40m
19 *** Telstar Trad 85m
19 M0 Freerider Aid 55m
20 * Bumblies ahoy Trad 20m
*** Caladan Trad 35m
Carpa Intoxicata Unknown 50m
* Club Mac Mixed 27m, 3
Lunatic Soup Trad 20m
My girlfriend's a bumbly, but she's alright Unknown 15m
Unknown Trad 35m
20 M2 Snakes & Ladders Aid 75m
21 ** Splattergram Sport 85m
22 ** Aladinsane Trad 40m
*** Blast Off Trad 100m
Fantasia Trad 40m
** Jezebel Trad 100m
Pin Ups Trad 50m
23 Confidence Trick Trad 35m
24 ** Serene Machine Trad 34m
* The Gift Trad 28m
** The Mooing Sport 50m
** The Squealing Sport 87m
26 Tuxedo Mask Trad 50m