Routes as trad in Odin Head

Obvious short corner crack to short roof crack and beyond. Maybe 5.12, or 7a, or even 6a/E4 ... try it and see ..

Boulder start leads to short fist crack section in roof. Turn lip and continue up crack to belay half way up wall. Will probably be moved to top.

The first route you come across after descending the gully. Start 5m right of thin roof crack, Odin's Love Glove, behind large block. P1 - Follow the nice finger crack which turns into a hand crack and ends in the small cave, gear belay. P2 – Two #4 Cams make it more enjoyable,Climb out through roof crux and up easy corner to top. Tree belay. Also good doing route as single pitch.

Splitter hand crack. Hard start into flake/hand crack. Up this into tight chimney to ledge. Blast up the hand crack to top.

Start 20m right of True Dreams. Up off width crack into corner. Climb out through roof on excellent gear and follow the hand crack to the arête. Tricky move up arête past 5 bolts to top.

Alternate start to Sharp shooter. Short, thin pumpy finger crack.

Fantastic climbing up an intimidating line. Start 20m right of DWMC at base of a steep hand crack. Follow hand crack up into roof. Jamb through the roof and follow the splitter crack into large pod. Climb up pod into second roof. Swing out of the roof into the tight hand crack to top. Tree belay. Old School 20 or new school 22

The best warm up route at the crag. Start 5m right of SS. Follow hand crack up to large horizontal break. Traverse out to arête and drift slightly left up wall to bolt. Now head back to the arête and climb its right side past 4 bolts to sprouting tree belay (or natural belay approx 10m back off micro-small cams and a #3 BD Camelot.) Rap off anchor around tree to base.

Shares start with 'Master and the Apprentice'.

1. 26m (19) Up 'MATA' for about 10m then traverse left across hanging slab (with a 30 cm roof above you) to corner. Up corner to belay in cave above tree.

2. 14m (20) Start up chimney with gear in crack on left. Commit to crack line up left wall at scoop above horizontal break. At horizontals move up and slightly right and then left along lip until possible to mantel at arete. A fall from here could see you close to slanting edge of chimney, so if it’s close to your limit consider hanging a very long sling from abseil tree to the lip.

P1 13. Up RH crack, into chimney for gear, then onto slabby nose. Up to loose blocks and crack belay. P2 15. Up nice leaning R-­‐facing corner to terrace and tree. P3 10. Up crack in middle of slabby wall, left a bit at top.

Great bridging up a wide crack. Start 100m right of MATA. Take at least one #5 and selection of big gear. Up corner with committing move of a small ledge. Tree belay

Crack to the right of Hunger games, it is in the same little alcove. Odens’ version of flake crack. You will need a 5 and six for the top. Lower offs at the top, and 60m rope gets you to the ground on stretch. L/H variant has been climbed and is thrutchier than it looks

Arete left of Joe Blake. Start up chossy wall on the left and traverse into arete to large thred. Up past wire and cam to ledge. Tricky moves past 2 BR to another break, then continue up arete with ok gear and 4 more bolts. 2 RB belay as for The Joe Blake. Two ropes needed to rap off or do second pitch.

Classic of the crag. Start 5m right of Arachnarete.

1. Climb short corner to ledge. Follow the fine hand crack, which tightens to fingers through small overlap to ledge. Two bolt belay.

2. Up corner to top. Tree belay

Dirty, and hideous in places.

1. 15m (16) Start as for Joe Blake to belay stance in corner above small tree.

2. 11m (11) Up the corner to tree anchor.

3. 18m (12) Up the corner to loose, sloping, shale ledge, and right to tree.

Stay roped up for traverse off to the right.

Thin finger crack 5m left of ABOTS. Join PV at the horizontal or continue up the wall to join ABOTS at the tree.

A fine looking arête when looking across from Joe Blake. Start 20m right of JB. Up blocky corner for a few metres to horizontal break. Traverse left all the way out to the arête. Follow sharp arête to the top. Tree belay. Single rack of cams to #3

Up blocky corner to tree. Follow the crack up the right wall to tree belay. Not sure if this is the two pitch climb done by A.rivers, J.Wilde

Arete to the right. Start up hand crack to ledge and then onto the arete. Lower off rings at the top and a 60m rope gets you back to the ground.

P1 25m 16 Hands to tree Anchor P2 25m 13

Same start as Munch, then wide crack on the right.

Start 5m right of Munch. Up short rotten crack corner to sloping section. Hand crack in alcove to fist crack. When crack ends go straight up past a bolt to top and tree anchor.

Jambing, easy finish on 2nd ledge.

Short finger crack

1. 20m (17) Crack and up wall to block above tree (RH pikers variant at 15)

2. 10m (11) Ramp and crack

3. (14) Along ledge to L and up steep blocky passage.