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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalityUnknown, Trad and other styles
Long/Lat: 150.288869, -33.553379
- Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.
- Approach:© (mjw)
4km down this road on the left is the walking track to Ikara. Another 400m along Vic Falls road is the walking track to 'Thor Head' (Marked 'Asgard' Swamp 3km). Another km or so the road ends at 'Victoria Falls' carpark.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
Long/Lat: 150.277361, -33.555591
|1||The Crystal Escalator in the God Palace Department Store||21||18m|
|2||Bitch Dyke Fag Hag Whore||20||29m|
|6||Who is Righteous, What is Bold?||20||26m|
|7||From the Flagstones||21||28m|
|8||Edgy and Dull Direct Start||19||8m|
|9||Edgy and Dull||18||28m|
|10||Frou Frou Foxes in Midsummer Fires||22||36m|
|12||The Son and Heir||22||33m|
|15||A Walk Across the Rooftops||19||30m|
|16||Who Punced Humphrey||14||40m|
|17||Searching the Shore||17||26m|
|18||Swamp of Trivia||19||30m|
|19||Girl With the Most Cake||14||35m|
|21||She Once Had Me||16||18m|
|22||Taking the Veil||19||17m|
|23||Let Me Down, Gently||20 M1||24m|
Trad, Sport and other styles
Long/Lat: 150.281815, -33.547531
- Description:© (mjw)
Take the 'Victoria Falls' road, to the right just after passing 'Browntown' Oval (Soldier's Pinch) between 'Mt Boyce' and Mt 'Victoria' - This is a dirt road and can be a little rough on an old car - for exactly 4km until a minor vehical track is reached on the left (Signposted with a 'Management Track - Walkers Only' sign. This track is about 400m before the 'Asgard Swamp' trail. Leave your car here and walk. Follow the trail for about 3.3km until a small cliff overlooking a creek is reached. Find your way around the small cliff (cairns) and down through some swampy ground, across the creek and up the hill to the cliff line. The gully as you get to the cliff line is one of only 2 ways to the top of the cliffs, other than climbing that is! Head right beneath the overhangs until the climbing area is reached.
Corner to belay under roof. 2). Left under roof, up thin crack, right to corner and up.
Start: Big orange corner opposite the detached block.
FA: S.Moon,M.Law, 1992
Corner to bolt, left to arete. 2). 'Arete' to chain. 3). Left edge of cave to roof, right, then the arete. To rap from here take 'hero' loops. Rap to chain then to ground 50m!!
Start: 30m right of TM. 'Arete'.
FA: M.Law,M.Stacey, 1992
Up to ledge. 2).Flakes to roof, up, right on loose block and up to chain. 3).Ramp to arete, to big ledge, up wall, left around roofs then right across wall to rap point. Double Ropes?
Start: 15m right of TS. Cairn & flake.
FA: M.Law,V.Kondos, 1993
Start: Right of S. Up the prow.
FA: S.Moon, 1999
"A surprisingly long climb despite appearances from below. Two fairly good pitches...spoiled somewhat by a scrappy finish."
Start: Clean wide crack leading to a V groove with a bush in it.
FA: M.Colyvan,A.Penney, 1982
Sponsored by the state
FA: Duanne White, Scott Young, Dale Tweedie, 2005
Start 2 m R of PV, up pockets past bolt to ledge. up to next ledge past bolt, then R to shallow R facing corner/flake. L up this past BR to PV pitch 1 ledge & 2 rings.
FA: Dale Tweedie, Duanne White, 2005
Up corner to slings.
Start: Big orange corner 30m right again.
Probably the first climb here. The aid at the start of the second pitch was freed by Joe Friend.
Start: 33m right at obvious yellow crack/corner system.
FA: B.Allen in the's, freed in the 70's., 1960
Sustained and varied climbing up a truly superb finger crack.
Start: 7m right again at short crack in block.
FA: R.Young,A.Prehn,M.Burton, 1980
...they must have been fighting for it!
Start: 7m right.
FA: G.James,A.McAuley,M.Moore,D.Lawler,R.McKillop,G.Benett, 1995
Crack to ledge. Traverse left to 'Jezabel' belay bolts.
Start: Halfway up the ramp.
FA: E.Garbett,M.Wilson, 1992
My girlfriend's a bumbly, but she's alright
FA: Duanne White, Liz Drummond, 2005
An amazing line and excellent climbing.
Start: Left facing corner 25m right of A.
FA: K.Bell and his brother., 1979
Snakes & Ladders
Crack to ledge 2). 'Diagonal' finger crack to fixed wires.
Start: From the top of the block, 10m right of BO.
FA: M.Wilson, 1994
Start: 43m right of BO. Crack/groove system below a terrifying roof.
FA: Keith Bell (pitches 1&3) Ian Thomas (pitch 2)
Caladan / Kaladan
"The climb that Ikara is famous for and the only one that most people have heard of!" - A.Penney 1982
Start: Crack 33m right of T.
FA: Keith Bell & Ian Thomas
Up to L&W, across this right and up wall and flakes.
Start: On right side of arete right of K.
FA: M.Wilson,B.Harrington, 1992
Lace & Whisky
Crack and flake, then left joining K.
Start: 2.5m right of previous route.
FA: A.Mason,C.Bennett,R.Lebreton, 1985
Start: 'Arete' right of CT. Carrots.
FA: G.James,W.Stevens, 1996
"An excellent excursion for a hot day. Some tube runners are useful on the 2nd pitch."
Start: Right facing corner about 30m past K. Scramble to base of corner.
FA: C.Dale,A.Penney, 1983
Crack to offwidth and belay where crack becomes slabby. 2). Up and right around arete, wall and arete, left at last bolt and up to belay. Rap here or continue up crack as for WM.
Start: Right again. Crack and peapod.
FA: S.Wilson,K.Luck, 2001
Around roof and up crack - possible to belay where wall becomes a slab - 'Small' corner, traverse right along obvious break 10m, diagonally right across to corner and up. Take Care!
Start: 90m right of K.
FA: W.Baird,G.Bradbury, 1979
A Varied climb with a bit of everything.
Start: 65m right of of WC. Shale band with roof crack above.
FA: P.Young,A.Prehn, 1982
To block, corner, crack, left to ledge and rap.
Start: 150m right again. Track below steep crack right os small black chimney.
FA: N.Deka,B.Cameron, 1988
Wide crack, blocks, thin crack (aid) to ledge. 2). Zig zag crack then right to belay. 3). Up.
Start: 20m right again.
FA: B.Cameron,N.Deka, 1988
Probably done before, but it's a decent line and worth recording.
Crack, ~ 2m to the right of the R facing corner almost directly below 'Blast Off'. Up the clean hand/off width crack to ledge.
Start: Back on the ground below the block
FA: FRA Duanne White, 2006
Long/Lat: 150.298183, -33.550828
- Description:© (nmonteith)
The main wall is outstanding orange rock, which pops into the shade after 1pm. This is an 80m high cliff, accessed from the top via abseil. The lower 20m is a bit scrappy, so many routes only start from a ledge part way up.
- Approach:© (nmonteith)
From 'Asgard' Swamp carpark (500m before end of road) follow gated road downhill for 3km to swamp (30 minutes). Continue another 500m then bush bash left up a ridge at small rock cairn. After 10 minutes you arrive at first summit with stupendous views. Look north to see see second rocky summit (Thor Head). All routes are below this rocky blob summit. Refer to Google map below.
The left arete of the main wall. Superseded by the new right hand variant 'I Hurt it on the Grapevine'. 2nd pitch is the good one, first is pretty worthless.
Start: Fix 70m rope from trees about 5m south from the summit rock blob. There are double ring bolts on the top of the arete (50m to hanging belay)
FA: M.Law, M. Garben, D.Stone, V Peterson, 2000
I Hurt it on the Grapevine
The excellent and sustained ringbolted right hand finish to Bailys second pitch. Makes a good climb into a mega route! Splits at 25m point. 50m rope is only just long enough. Extened runners to avoid rope-drag.
FA: Mike Law & Neil MOnteith, 2008
Excellent red wall on pitch 1, weird climbing on pitch 2.
Start: Fix a 60m rope and rap from three rings under southern end of summit blob. Marked with a painted R. Belay at base of grand orange wall above mossy slab on twin rings.
FA: Neil Monteith, Aaron Jones, Mike Law and Adrian Lang, 2008
Horse Meat Disco (CLOSED PROJECT)
A very long face route, that can be split into two pitches or lead as one ultra long pitch.
Start: Fix 60m rope off large tree 5m left of 'Raving Bull' and rap down to huge orange face to belay ledge about 5m down and right of the left arete.
Line of FH with DUB's starting at base of wall far Right (looking in). Rap down as for Baileys then walk north or rap down route. If needing to walk out walk North up the valley along base, ignore first 'possible' ramp and continue until spur meets you then hike up left , poke about with a few very short easy scrambles and walk up side of hill back to top lookout. Walking south toward old shale mine track is dangerous, difficult and not recomended. Pitch one is the highlight. Up wall and arette to triple ubolt hanging belay. Bring 20 quickdraws. Pich two is immediately technical getting established in fused corner/slab then exponentially steeper and difficult right to the chain. Double U bolt hanging belay. Pitch 3 up to steep over hanging red wall and work arette. DUB Anchors set back beneath pitch 4. Pitch 4 vertical hiking up dirty corner avoiding wall under lookout for anchor discretion. Belay from tree backed up with single U bolt. P1 42m (23), p2 26m (24), p3 26m (24), p4 16m (15)
Set by E .Wells, 2015
FFA: Evan Wells , Jessica Tam, 28th Mar