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Table of contents

1. Ikara, Victorialand, Thor Head 57 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.288869, -33.553379

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach:© (mjw)

Take the 'Victoria Falls' road, to the right just after passing 'Browntown' Oval (Soldier's Pinch) between 'Mt Boyce' and Mt 'Victoria' - This is a dirt road and can be a little rough on an old car.

4km down this road on the left is the walking track to Ikara. Another 400m along Vic Falls road is the walking track to 'Thor Head' (Marked 'Asgard' Swamp 3km). Another km or so the road ends at 'Victoria Falls' carpark.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

1.1. Wade's World 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.277361, -33.555591

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Crystal Escalator in the God Palace Department Store 21Unknown 18m
2 Bitch Dyke Fag Hag Whore 20Unknown 29m
3 * Recognition 21Unknown 28m
4 ** Envelope 22Unknown 28m
5 Feral Teabags 29Unknown 27m
6 Who is Righteous, What is Bold? 20Unknown 26m
7 From the Flagstones 21Unknown 28m
8 Edgy and Dull Direct Start 19Unknown 8m
9 Edgy and Dull 18Unknown 28m
10 Frou Frou Foxes in Midsummer Fires 22Unknown 36m
11 * soul companion

FA: c.o'donnell/r.rogers

23Unknown 35m
12 *** The Son and Heir 22Unknown 33m
13 ** Sleepwalking 20Unknown 33m
14 ** Pulling Punches 22Unknown 32m
15 * A Walk Across the Rooftops 19Unknown 30m
16 Who Punced Humphrey 14Unknown 40m
17 Searching the Shore 17Unknown 26m
18 * Swamp of Trivia 19Unknown 30m
19 * Girl With the Most Cake 14Unknown 35m
20 Tupelo 21Unknown 21m
21 She Once Had Me 16Unknown 18m
22 Taking the Veil 19Unknown 17m
23 * Let Me Down, Gently 20 M1Aid 24m
24 Angel's Spit 20Unknown 26m
25 Peripheral Visionary 20Unknown 23m

1.2. Ikara Head 28 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.281815, -33.547531

Description:© (mjw)

Take the 'Victoria Falls' road, to the right just after passing 'Browntown' Oval (Soldier's Pinch) between 'Mt Boyce' and Mt 'Victoria' - This is a dirt road and can be a little rough on an old car - for exactly 4km until a minor vehical track is reached on the left (Signposted with a 'Management Track - Walkers Only' sign. This track is about 400m before the 'Asgard Swamp' trail. Leave your car here and walk. Follow the trail for about 3.3km until a small cliff overlooking a creek is reached. Find your way around the small cliff (cairns) and down through some swampy ground, across the creek and up the hill to the cliff line. The gully as you get to the cliff line is one of only 2 ways to the top of the cliffs, other than climbing that is! Head right beneath the overhangs until the climbing area is reached.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Mooing

Corner to belay under roof. 2). Left under roof, up thin crack, right to corner and up.

Start: Big orange corner opposite the detached block.

FA: S.Moon,M.Law, 1992

24Sport 50m
2 ** The Squealing

Corner to bolt, left to arete. 2). 'Arete' to chain. 3). Left edge of cave to roof, right, then the arete. To rap from here take 'hero' loops. Rap to chain then to ground 50m!!

Start: 30m right of TM. 'Arete'.

FA: M.Law,M.Stacey, 1992

24Sport 87m
3 ** Splattergram

Up to ledge. 2).Flakes to roof, up, right on loose block and up to chain. 3).Ramp to arete, to big ledge, up wall, left around roofs then right across wall to rap point. Double Ropes?

Start: 15m right of TS. Cairn & flake.

FA: M.Law,V.Kondos, 1993

21Sport 85m
4 Tuxedo Mask

Start: Right of S. Up the prow.

FA: S.Moon, 1999

26Trad 50m
5 * Power Vacuum

"A surprisingly long climb despite appearances from below. Two fairly good pitches...spoiled somewhat by a scrappy finish."

Start: Clean wide crack leading to a V groove with a bush in it.

FA: M.Colyvan,A.Penney, 1982

17Trad 120m
6 ** Sponsored by the state
  1. 30m (17) Start up PV to the ledge, then up the arete to to the R passing 2 BR.

  2. 40m (16) Continue up PV to ledge (ignoring bolt on wall to L, which is a gr 20 variant), then L to crack. Follow crack through roof, and continue until it is blocked by vegetation. Head up and L across slab past bolt to large ledge (1 bolt + cam belay).

  3. 25m (19) Up face past 2 bolts, then 15 m left along ledge to 2 bolt belay. Good nut to avoid big swing for second.

  4. 20m (15) Carefully up face passing bolt and a couple of cam breaks to 2 bolt belay at top.

FA: Duanne White, Scott Young, Dale Tweedie, 2005

18Mixed 110m, 6
7 * Club Mac

Start 2 m R of PV, up pockets past bolt to ledge. up to next ledge past bolt, then R to shallow R facing corner/flake. L up this past BR to PV pitch 1 ledge & 2 rings.

FA: Dale Tweedie, Duanne White, 2005

20Mixed 27m, 3
8 Unknown

Up corner to slings.

Start: Big orange corner 30m right again.

20Trad 35m
9 ** Jezebel

Probably the first climb here. The aid at the start of the second pitch was freed by Joe Friend.

Start: 33m right at obvious yellow crack/corner system.

FA: B.Allen in the's, freed in the 70's., 1960

22Trad 100m
10 ** Aladinsane

Sustained and varied climbing up a truly superb finger crack.

Start: 7m right again at short crack in block.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn,M.Burton, 1980

22Trad 40m
11 Fantasia

...they must have been fighting for it!

Start: 7m right.

FA: G.James,A.McAuley,M.Moore,D.Lawler,R.McKillop,G.Benett, 1995

22Trad 40m
12 Reincarnation

Crack to ledge. Traverse left to 'Jezabel' belay bolts.

Start: Halfway up the ramp.

FA: E.Garbett,M.Wilson, 1992

18Trad 35m
13 My girlfriend's a bumbly, but she's alright

FA: Duanne White, Liz Drummond, 2005

20Unknown 15m
14 *** Blast Off

An amazing line and excellent climbing.

Start: Left facing corner 25m right of A.

FA: K.Bell and his brother., 1979

22Trad 100m
15 Snakes & Ladders

Crack to ledge 2). 'Diagonal' finger crack to fixed wires.

Start: From the top of the block, 10m right of BO.

FA: M.Wilson, 1994

20 M2Aid 75m
16 *** Telstar

Whoopy!

Start: 43m right of BO. Crack/groove system below a terrifying roof.

FA: Keith Bell (pitches 1&3) Ian Thomas (pitch 2)

19Trad 85m
17 *** Caladan / Kaladan

"The climb that Ikara is famous for and the only one that most people have heard of!" - A.Penney 1982

Start: Crack 33m right of T.

FA: Keith Bell & Ian Thomas

20Trad 35m
18 Confidence Trick

Up to L&W, across this right and up wall and flakes.

Start: On right side of arete right of K.

FA: M.Wilson,B.Harrington, 1992

23Trad 35m
19 Lace & Whisky

Crack and flake, then left joining K.

Start: 2.5m right of previous route.

FA: A.Mason,C.Bennett,R.Lebreton, 1985

16Trad 15m
20 ** Serene Machine

Start: 'Arete' right of CT. Carrots.

FA: G.James,W.Stevens, 1996

24Trad 34m
21 * Waltzing Matilda

"An excellent excursion for a hot day. Some tube runners are useful on the 2nd pitch."

Start: Right facing corner about 30m past K. Scramble to base of corner.

FA: C.Dale,A.Penney, 1983

17Trad 80m
22 * The Gift

Crack to offwidth and belay where crack becomes slabby. 2). Up and right around arete, wall and arete, left at last bolt and up to belay. Rap here or continue up crack as for WM.

Start: Right again. Crack and peapod.

FA: S.Wilson,K.Luck, 2001

24Trad 28m
23 Water Closet

Around roof and up crack - possible to belay where wall becomes a slab - 'Small' corner, traverse right along obvious break 10m, diagonally right across to corner and up. Take Care!

Start: 90m right of K.

FA: W.Baird,G.Bradbury, 1979

18Trad 40m
24 Pin Ups

A Varied climb with a bit of everything.

Start: 65m right of of WC. Shale band with roof crack above.

FA: P.Young,A.Prehn, 1982

22Trad 50m
25 Lunatic Soup

To block, corner, crack, left to ledge and rap.

Start: 150m right again. Track below steep crack right os small black chimney.

FA: N.Deka,B.Cameron, 1988

20Trad 20m
26 Freerider

Wide crack, blocks, thin crack (aid) to ledge. 2). Zig zag crack then right to belay. 3). Up.

Start: 20m right again.

FA: B.Cameron,N.Deka, 1988

19 M0Aid 55m
27 Carpa Intoxicata 20Unknown 50m
28 * Bumblies ahoy

Probably done before, but it's a decent line and worth recording.

Crack, ~ 2m to the right of the R facing corner almost directly below 'Blast Off'. Up the clean hand/off width crack to ledge.

Start: Back on the ground below the block

FA: FRA Duanne White, 2006

20Trad 20m

1.3. Thor Head 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.298183, -33.550828

Description:© (nmonteith)

The main wall is outstanding orange rock, which pops into the shade after 1pm. This is an 80m high cliff, accessed from the top via abseil. The lower 20m is a bit scrappy, so many routes only start from a ledge part way up.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From 'Asgard' Swamp carpark (500m before end of road) follow gated road downhill for 3km to swamp (30 minutes). Continue another 500m then bush bash left up a ridge at small rock cairn. After 10 minutes you arrive at first summit with stupendous views. Look north to see see second rocky summit (Thor Head). All routes are below this rocky blob summit. Refer to Google map below.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Baileys

The left arete of the main wall. Superseded by the new right hand variant 'Hurt it on the Grapevine'. 2nd pitch is the good one, first is pretty worthless.

Start: Fix 70m rope from trees about 5m south from the summit rock blob. There are double ring bolts on the top of the arete (50m to hanging belay)

  1. 25m (22) Up chossy flake (scary start) and leftwards up featured wall past a few old bash in carrots to belay ledge at double rings.

  2. 50m (24) Climb nice orange ripply face on right side of arete past a band of choss to good stance at 25m. Ignore the nice shiny u-bolts going right, and climb the dirtier arete direct on old carrots.

FA: M.Law, M. Garben, D.Stone, V Peterson, 2000

25Sport 75m
2 *** Hurt it on the Grapevine

The excellent and sustained ringbolted right hand finish to Bailys second pitch. Makes a good climb into a mega route! Splits at 25m point. 50m rope is only just long enough. Extened runners to avoid rope-drag.

FA: Mike Law & Neil MOnteith, 2008

24Sport 50m, 18
3 ** Raving Bull

Excellent red wall on pitch 1, weird climbing on pitch 2.

Start: Fix a 60m rope and rap from three rings under southern end of summit blob. Marked with a painted R. Belay at base of grand orange wall above mossy slab on twin rings.

  1. 37m (25) Super looking rock. Sustained and reachy vertical wall climbing with a right kink at halfway. Committing finish.

  2. 30m (22) Sustained wierdness up ironstone plates and gritty pockets. Belay off three u-bolts on shale ledge.

FA: Neil Monteith, Aaron Jones, Mike Law and Adrian Lang, 2008

25Sport 67m
4 Horse Meat Disco (CLOSED PROJECT)

A very long face route, that can be split into two pitches or lead as one ultra long pitch.

Start: Fix 60m rope off large tree 5m left of 'Raving Bull' and rap down to huge orange face to belay ledge about 5m down and right of the left arete.

  1. 15m (25) Mossy slab for a few metres then straight up reachy orange face on cool pockets to join into Hurt It etc for two bolts then traverse right across hand ledge to hanging belay at double u-bolts.

  2. 40m (26) Onwards up epic orange face with a kinky right dogleg about halfway up (clip the FHs and ignore the rings going straight up - unless you climb 30+). Sustained right to the very last move.

26Sport 55m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
14 * Girl With the Most Cake Unknown 35m 1.1. Wade's World
Who Punced Humphrey Unknown 40m 1.1. Wade's World
16 She Once Had Me Unknown 18m 1.1. Wade's World
Lace & Whisky Trad 15m 1.2. Ikara Head
17 Searching the Shore Unknown 26m 1.1. Wade's World
* Power Vacuum Trad 120m 1.2. Ikara Head
* Waltzing Matilda Trad 80m 1.2. Ikara Head
18 Edgy and Dull Unknown 28m 1.1. Wade's World
Reincarnation Trad 35m 1.2. Ikara Head
** Sponsored by the state Mixed 110m, 6 1.2. Ikara Head
Water Closet Trad 40m 1.2. Ikara Head
19 * A Walk Across the Rooftops Unknown 30m 1.1. Wade's World
Edgy and Dull Direct Start Unknown 8m 1.1. Wade's World
* Swamp of Trivia Unknown 30m 1.1. Wade's World
Taking the Veil Unknown 17m 1.1. Wade's World
*** Telstar Trad 85m 1.2. Ikara Head
19 M0 Freerider Aid 55m 1.2. Ikara Head
20 Angel's Spit Unknown 26m 1.1. Wade's World
Bitch Dyke Fag Hag Whore Unknown 29m 1.1. Wade's World
Peripheral Visionary Unknown 23m 1.1. Wade's World
** Sleepwalking Unknown 33m 1.1. Wade's World
Who is Righteous, What is Bold? Unknown 26m 1.1. Wade's World
* Bumblies ahoy Trad 20m 1.2. Ikara Head
*** Caladan Trad 35m 1.2. Ikara Head
Carpa Intoxicata Unknown 50m 1.2. Ikara Head
* Club Mac Mixed 27m, 3 1.2. Ikara Head
Lunatic Soup Trad 20m 1.2. Ikara Head
My girlfriend's a bumbly, but she's alright Unknown 15m 1.2. Ikara Head
Unknown Trad 35m 1.2. Ikara Head
20 M1 * Let Me Down, Gently Aid 24m 1.1. Wade's World
20 M2 Snakes & Ladders Aid 75m 1.2. Ikara Head
21 From the Flagstones Unknown 28m 1.1. Wade's World
* Recognition Unknown 28m 1.1. Wade's World
The Crystal Escalator in the God Palace Department Store Unknown 18m 1.1. Wade's World
Tupelo Unknown 21m 1.1. Wade's World
** Splattergram Sport 85m 1.2. Ikara Head
22 ** Envelope Unknown 28m 1.1. Wade's World
Frou Frou Foxes in Midsummer Fires Unknown 36m 1.1. Wade's World
** Pulling Punches Unknown 32m 1.1. Wade's World
*** The Son and Heir Unknown 33m 1.1. Wade's World
** Aladinsane Trad 40m 1.2. Ikara Head
*** Blast Off Trad 100m 1.2. Ikara Head
Fantasia Trad 40m 1.2. Ikara Head
** Jezebel Trad 100m 1.2. Ikara Head
Pin Ups Trad 50m 1.2. Ikara Head
23 * soul companion Unknown 35m 1.1. Wade's World
Confidence Trick Trad 35m 1.2. Ikara Head
24 ** Serene Machine Trad 34m 1.2. Ikara Head
* The Gift Trad 28m 1.2. Ikara Head
** The Mooing Sport 50m 1.2. Ikara Head
** The Squealing Sport 87m 1.2. Ikara Head
*** Hurt it on the Grapevine Sport 50m, 18 1.3. Thor Head
25 * Baileys Sport 75m 1.3. Thor Head
** Raving Bull Sport 67m 1.3. Thor Head
26 Tuxedo Mask Trad 50m 1.2. Ikara Head
Horse Meat Disco (CLOSED PROJECT) Sport 55m 1.3. Thor Head
29 Feral Teabags Unknown 27m 1.1. Wade's World