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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalityTrad, Unknown and other styles
Long/Lat: 150.288869, -33.553379
- Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.
- Approach:© (mjw)
4km down this road on the left is the walking track to Ikara. Another 400m along Vic Falls road is the walking track to 'Thor Head' (Marked 'Asgard' Swamp 3km). Another km or so the road ends at 'Victoria Falls' carpark.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
Long/Lat: 150.277361, -33.555591
|1||The Crystal Escalator in the God Palace Department Store||21||18m|
|2||Bitch Dyke Fag Hag Whore||20||29m|
|6||Who is Righteous, What is Bold?||20||26m|
|7||From the Flagstones||21||28m|
|8||Edgy and Dull Direct Start||19||8m|
|9||Edgy and Dull||18||28m|
|10||Frou Frou Foxes in Midsummer Fires||22||36m|
|12||The Son and Heir||22||33m|
|15||A Walk Across the Rooftops||19||30m|
|16||Who Punced Humphrey||14||40m|
|17||Searching the Shore||17||26m|
|18||Swamp of Trivia||19||30m|
|19||Girl With the Most Cake||14||35m|
|21||She Once Had Me||16||18m|
|22||Taking the Veil||19||17m|
|23||Let Me Down, Gently||20 M1||24m|
Trad, Sport and other styles
Long/Lat: 150.281815, -33.547531
- Description:© (mjw)
Take the 'Victoria Falls' road, to the right just after passing 'Browntown' Oval (Soldier's Pinch) between 'Mt Boyce' and Mt 'Victoria' - This is a dirt road and can be a little rough on an old car - for exactly 4km until a minor vehical track is reached on the left (Signposted with a 'Management Track - Walkers Only' sign. This track is about 400m before the 'Asgard Swamp' trail. Leave your car here and walk. Follow the trail for about 3.3km until a small cliff overlooking a creek is reached. Find your way around the small cliff (cairns) and down through some swampy ground, across the creek and up the hill to the cliff line. The gully as you get to the cliff line is one of only 2 ways to the top of the cliffs, other than climbing that is! Head right beneath the overhangs until the climbing area is reached.
Corner to belay under roof. 2). Left under roof, up thin crack, right to corner and up.
Start: Big orange corner opposite the detached block.
FA: S.Moon,M.Law, 1992
Start: 30m right of TM. 'Arete'.
FA: M.Law,M.Stacey, 1992
Up to ledge. 2).Flakes to roof, up, right on loose block and up to chain. 3).Ramp to arete, to big ledge, up wall, left around roofs then right across wall to rap point. Double Ropes?
Start: 15m right of TS. Cairn & flake.
FA: M.Law,V.Kondos, 1993
Start: Right of S. Up the prow.
FA: S.Moon, 1999
"A surprisingly long climb despite appearances from below. Two fairly good pitches...spoiled somewhat by a scrappy finish."
Start: Clean wide crack leading to a V groove with a bush in it.
FA: M.Colyvan,A.Penney, 1982
Sponsored by the state
FA: Duanne White, Scott Young, Dale Tweedie, 2005
Start 2 m R of PV, up pockets past bolt to ledge. up to next ledge past bolt, then R to shallow R facing corner/flake. L up this past BR to PV pitch 1 ledge & 2 rings.
FA: Dale Tweedie, Duanne White, 2005
Up corner to slings.
Start: Big orange corner 30m right again.
Probably the first climb here. The aid at the start of the second pitch was freed by Joe Friend.
Start: 33m right at obvious yellow crack/corner system.
FA: B.Allen in the's, freed in the 70's., 1960
Sustained and varied climbing up a truly superb finger crack.
Start: 7m right again at short crack in block.
FA: R.Young,A.Prehn,M.Burton, 1980
...they must have been fighting for it!
Start: 7m right.
FA: G.James,A.McAuley,M.Moore,D.Lawler,R.McKillop,G.Benett, 1995
Crack to ledge. Traverse left to 'Jezabel' belay bolts.
Start: Halfway up the ramp.
FA: E.Garbett,M.Wilson, 1992
My girlfriend's a bumbly, but she's alright
FA: Duanne White, Liz Drummond, 2005
An amazing line and excellent climbing.
Start: Left facing corner 25m right of A.
FA: K.Bell and his brother., 1979
Snakes & Ladders
Crack to ledge 2). 'Diagonal' finger crack to fixed wires.
Start: From the top of the block, 10m right of BO.
FA: M.Wilson, 1994
Start: 43m right of BO. Crack/groove system below a terrifying roof.
FA: Keith Bell (pitches 1&3) Ian Thomas (pitch 2)
Caladan / Kaladan
"The climb that Ikara is famous for and the only one that most people have heard of!" - A.Penney 1982
Start: Crack 33m right of T.
FA: Keith Bell & Ian Thomas
Up to L&W, across this right and up wall and flakes.
Start: On right side of arete right of K.
FA: M.Wilson,B.Harrington, 1992
Lace & Whisky
Crack and flake, then left joining K.
Start: 2.5m right of previous route.
FA: A.Mason,C.Bennett,R.Lebreton, 1985
Start: 'Arete' right of CT. Carrots.
FA: G.James,W.Stevens, 1996
"An excellent excursion for a hot day. Some tube runners are useful on the 2nd pitch."
Start: Right facing corner about 30m past K. Scramble to base of corner.
FA: C.Dale,A.Penney, 1983
Crack to offwidth and belay where crack becomes slabby. 2). Up and right around arete, wall and arete, left at last bolt and up to belay. Rap here or continue up crack as for WM.
Start: Right again. Crack and peapod.
FA: S.Wilson,K.Luck, 2001
Around roof and up crack - possible to belay where wall becomes a slab - 'Small' corner, traverse right along obvious break 10m, diagonally right across to corner and up. Take Care!
Start: 90m right of K.
FA: W.Baird,G.Bradbury, 1979
A Varied climb with a bit of everything.
Start: 65m right of of WC. Shale band with roof crack above.
FA: P.Young,A.Prehn, 1982
To block, corner, crack, left to ledge and rap.
Start: 150m right again. Track below steep crack right os small black chimney.
FA: N.Deka,B.Cameron, 1988
Wide crack, blocks, thin crack (aid) to ledge. 2). Zig zag crack then right to belay. 3). Up.
Start: 20m right again.
FA: B.Cameron,N.Deka, 1988
Probably done before, but it's a decent line and worth recording.
Crack, ~ 2m to the right of the R facing corner almost directly below 'Blast Off'. Up the clean hand/off width crack to ledge.
Start: Back on the ground below the block
FA: FRA Duanne White, 2006
Long/Lat: 150.298183, -33.550828
- Description:© (nmonteith)
The main wall is outstanding orange rock, which pops into the shade after 1pm. This is an 80m high cliff, accessed from the top via abseil. The lower 20m is a bit scrappy, so many routes only start from a ledge part way up.
- Approach:© (nmonteith)
From 'Asgard' Swamp carpark (500m before end of road) follow gated road downhill for 3km to swamp (30 minutes). Continue another 500m then bush bash left up a ridge at small rock cairn. After 10 minutes you arrive at first summit with stupendous views. Look north to see see second rocky summit (Thor Head). All routes are below this rocky blob summit. Refer to Google map below.
The left arete of the main wall. Superseded by the new right hand variant 'I Hurt it on the Grapevine'. 2nd pitch is the good one, first is pretty worthless.
Start: Fix 70m rope from trees about 5m south from the summit rock blob. There are double ring bolts on the top of the arete (50m to hanging belay)
FA: M.Law, M. Garben, D.Stone, V Peterson, 2000
I Hurt it on the Grapevine
The excellent and sustained ringbolted right hand finish to Bailys second pitch. Makes a good climb into a mega route! Splits at 25m point. 50m rope is only just long enough. Extened runners to avoid rope-drag.
FA: Mike Law & Neil MOnteith, 2008
Excellent red wall on pitch 1, weird climbing on pitch 2.
Start: Fix a 60m rope and rap from three rings under southern end of summit blob. Marked with a painted R. Belay at base of grand orange wall above mossy slab on twin rings.
FA: Neil Monteith, Aaron Jones, Mike Law and Adrian Lang, 2008
Horse Meat Disco (CLOSED PROJECT)
A very long face route, that can be split into two pitches or lead as one ultra long pitch.
Start: Fix 60m rope off large tree 5m left of 'Raving Bull' and rap down to huge orange face to belay ledge about 5m down and right of the left arete.
Line of FH with DUB's starting at base of wall far Right (looking in). Rap down as for Baileys then walk north or rap down route. If needing to walk out walk North up the valley along base, ignore first 'possible' ramp and continue until spur meets you then hike up left , poke about with a few very short easy scrambles and walk up side of hill back to top lookout. Walking south toward old shale mine track is dangerous, difficult and not recomended. Pitch one is the highlight. Up wall and arette to triple ubolt hanging belay. Bring 20 quickdraws. Pich two is immediately technical getting established in fused corner/slab then exponentially steeper and difficult right to the chain. Double U bolt hanging belay. Pitch 3 up to steep over hanging red wall and work arette. DUB Anchors set back beneath pitch 4. Pitch 4 vertical hiking up dirty corner avoiding wall under lookout for anchor discretion. Belay from tree backed up with single U bolt. P1 42m (23), p2 26m (24), p3 26m (24), p4 16m (15)
Set by E .Wells, 2015
FFA: Evan Wells , Jessica Tam, 2015
- Unique Features And Strengths:
Trad climbing area in Mt Victoria. Most routes require 2 ropes to get off.
Odin Head is a great trad climbing area. Most routes are a healthy 40-45m with some jaw dropping lines. The climbing is high quality and provides the Blue Mountains with another quality trad climbing venue. It faces East North East so provides pleasant shade on those hot days.
Most routes require abseiling double ropes to get off, unless you want to walk down the access gully. There are plenty of trees to use to abseil get back to the ground.
- Access Issues:
Odin Head is located in the Blue Mountains National Park.
Drive 1.6km along Victoria Falls Road. Park at a little turn off on the right.
Bruce Cameron and Keith Bell are believed to have visited Odin Head back in the 80's. There was more activity here in 2004 by Ant Rivers and Co.
Evan Wells inspired the revival in recent years, in which Mark Wilson, Taib Ezekiel and Marty Doolan finished off most of the other prominent lines. There is still potential for new routes, including the un climbed thin roof crack/corner on the Southern most end of the crag.
The first route you come across after descending the gully. Start 5m right of un climbed thin roof crack behind large block. P1 - Follow the nice finger crack which turns into a hand crack and ends in the small cave. Gear belay. 2x #4 cam's necessary. P2 – Climb out through roof and up corner to top. Tree belay.
FA: T. Ezekiel,@marto,M. Wilson, 2015
Sleipnir in Norse Mythology is an 8 legged horse. Splitter hand crack. Hard start into flake/hand crack. Up this into tight chimney to ledge. Blast up the hand crack to top.
FA: First recorded ascent,@evanwells,@marto,@eric13, 2012
Dude where's my cam?
Start 20m right of Sleipnir. Up steep crack into corner. Climb out through roof and follow the hand crack to the arête. Tricky move up arête past 5 bolts to top.
FA: Mark Wilson,@marto,T. Ezekiel, 2015
The Three Amigos
Fantastic climbing up an intimidating line. Start 20m right of DWMC at base of a steep hand crack. Follow hand crack up into roof. Jamb through the roof and follow the splitter crack into large pod. Climb up pod into second roof. Swing out of the roof into the tight hand crack to top. Tree belay.
FA: First recorded ascent,@eric13,@evanwells,@marto, 2012
Master and the apprentice
The best warm up route at the crag. Start 5m right of TTA. Follow hand crack up to large horizontal break. Traverse out to arête and drift slightly left up wall to bolt. Now head back to the arête and climb its right side past 4 bolts to tree belay.
FA: @marto,Mark Wilson,T.Ezekiel, 2015
Great bridging up a wide crack. Start 100m right of MATA. Take at least one #5 and selection of big gear. Up corner with committing move of a small ledge. Tree belay
FA: T. Ezekiel,M. Wilson, 2015
Climbs arete 2m left of The Vandal. Start up chossy wall on the left and traverse into arete to large thred. Up past wire and cam to ledge. Tricky moves past 2 BR to another break, then continue up delightful arete with good gear and 4 more bolts. 2 RB belay as for The Vandal. Rap off 40m or continue up last pitch of The Vandal.
FA: T.Ezekiel,M. Wilson,@marto, 2015
Classic of the crag. Start 5m right of AA. P1 - Climb short corner to ledge. Follow the fine hand crack, which tightens to fingers through small overlap to ledge. Two bolt belay. P2 – Up corner to top. Tree belay
FA: Mark Wilson,T. Ezekiel,@marto, 2015
Thin finger crack 5m left of ABOTS. Join PV at the horizontal or continue up the wall to join ABOTS at the tree.
FA: Mark Wilson,T.Ezekiel, 2015
A fine looking arête when looking across from The Vandal. Start 20m right of TV. Up blocky corner for a few metres to horizontal break. Traverse left all the way out to the arête. Follow sharp arête to the top. Tree belay. Single rack of cams to #3
FA: Mark Wilson,T.Ezekiel,@marto, 2015
A bit on the side
Up blocky corner to tree. Follow the crack up the right wall to tree belay.
FA: Mark Wilson,@marto,T.Ezekiel, 2015