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Routes as trad in Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head

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Showing all 46 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Wade's World
21 The Crystal Escalator in the God Palace Department Store

8m left of BDFH at stepped arete, left of undercut chimney. Right wall of arete (#2.5 friend, BR) to ledge (big friend). Left of undercut arete (2 BRs) to friends at big ledge. Off left or up slab.

FA: Wade Stevens, 1995

Mixed 18m, 3
Ikara Head
26 Tuxedo Mask

Start: Right of S. Up the prow.

FA: S.Moon, 1999

Trad 50m
17 Power Vacuum

"A surprisingly long climb despite appearances from below. Two fairly good pitches...spoiled somewhat by a scrappy finish."

Start: Clean wide crack leading to a V groove with a bush in it.

FA: M.Colyvan & A.Penney, 1982

Trad 120m
18 Sponsored by the state
  1. 30m (17) Start up PV to the ledge, then up the arete to to the R passing 2 BR.

  2. 40m (16) Continue up PV to ledge (ignoring bolt on wall to L, which is a gr 20 variant), then L to crack. Follow crack through roof, and continue until it is blocked by vegetation. Head up and L across slab past bolt to large ledge (1 bolt + cam belay).

  3. 25m (19) Up face past 2 bolts, then 15 m left along ledge to 2 bolt belay. Good nut to avoid big swing for second.

  4. 20m (15) Carefully up face passing bolt and a couple of cam breaks to 2 bolt belay at top.

FA: Duanne White, Scott Young & Dale Tweedie, 2005

Mixed 110m, 4, 6
20 Club Mac

Start 2 m R of PV, up pockets past bolt to ledge. up to next ledge past bolt, then R to shallow R facing corner/flake. L up this past BR to PV pitch 1 ledge & 2 rings.

FA: Dale Tweedie & Duanne White, 2005

Mixed 27m, 3
18 Octonauts

Start 4 m right of PV. Up groove to chimney and offwidth squeeze chimney. Belay on slings on ledge.

FA: David Gray, keith bell, Vanessa Wills & sylvie frechette, May 2018

Trad 33m
20 Unknown

Up corner to slings.

Start: Big orange corner 30m right again.

Trad 35m
22 Jezebel

Probably the first climb done at Ikara. The aid at the start of the second pitch was freed by Joe Friend. Start 33m right at obvious right trending wide yellow crack/corner system. Marked with J.

  1. 30m (18) Stem up featured corner system that funnels into a chimney near the top. Traverse right 4m to semi-hanging belay off rap chains. Lots of long slings useful on this pitch.

  2. 30m (22) Burly, slick and spectacular. The right trending wide crack breaching the upper headwall. Belay at top off trad and pretty awful tree belay. You can rap from here to ground with 50m rope.

  3. 30m Easy grey slab to top.

FFA: Joe Friend 1970s

FA: Bryden Allen 1960s

Trad 100m, 3
22 Aladinsane

Sustained and varied climbing up a truly superb finger crack. Marked with AS.

Start: 7m right again at short crack in block.

FA: R.Young, A.Prehn & M.Burton, 1980

Trad 40m
22 Fantasia

...they must have been fighting for it!

Start: 7m right.

FA: G.James, A.McAuley, M.Moore, D.Lawler, R.McKillop & G.Benett, 1995

Trad 40m
18 Reincarnation

A continuous, soaring, well-protected crack with minimal crack-climbing required. Some suspect rock. Bring a full rack, and oodles of wires (and a few extra #2/#3/#4 cams for that final traverse)..

Start halfway up the ramp (about 5m left of Blast Off ). Up crack, trending left. 2m below the "shale ledge", traverse left for about 5m along a clean break that eats #4, #3 and #2 camalots, then downclimb to the hidden anchors at the end of Jezebel P1. Rap 30m from here to large block.

FA: E.Garbett & M.Wilson, 1992

Trad 30m
22 Blast Off

An amazing line and excellent climbing.

Starts on top of large detached pillar which is accessed from a slot at the back.

Start: Left facing corner 25m right of A.

FA: K.Bell & his brother., 1979

Trad 100m, 2
19 Telstar

Whoopy!

Start: 43m right of BO. Crack/groove system below a terrifying roof.

  1. 30m (18) Up hand crack bypassing 2 small roofs (stick right) to belay in alcove at start of Bomb-bay chimney

  2. 15m (17) Out bottomless/Bomb-bay chimney to turn lip of roof then up slightly to small stance. Build a semi-hanging belay or continue up pitch 3.

  3. 20m (19) Up crack to belay at tree.

  4. 15m (3) To exit traverse right 2m then up corner and groove to large tree. Up easy slab for 5m to the top.

FA: Keith Bell (pitches 1 & 3) Ian Thomas (pitch 2)

Trad 85m, 4
20 Caladan

"The climb that Ikara is famous for and the only one that most people have heard of!" - A.Penney 1982 It is definitely Caladan with a C, a reference to Frank Herbert's Dune series. Start: Corner below crack 33m right of T.

FA: Keith Bell & Ian Thomas

Trad 35m
23 Confidence Trick

Up to L&W, across this right and up wall and flakes.

Start: On right side of arete right of K.

FA: M.Wilson & B.Harrington, 1992

Trad 35m
16 Lace & Whisky

Crack and flake, then left joining K.

Start: 2.5m right of previous route.

FA: A.Mason, C.Bennett & R.Lebreton, 1985

Trad 15m
24 Serene Machine

Start: 'Arete' right of CT. Carrots.

FA: G.James & W.Stevens, 1996

Trad 34m
17 Waltzing Matilda

"An excellent excursion for a hot day. Some tube runners are useful on the 2nd pitch."

Start: Right facing corner about 30m past K. Scramble to base of corner.

FA: C.Dale & A.Penney, 1983

Trad 80m
24 The Gift

Crack to offwidth and belay where crack becomes slabby. 2). Up and right around arete, wall and arete, left at last bolt and up to belay. Rap here or continue up crack as for WM.

Start: Right again. Crack and peapod.

FA: S.Wilson & K.Luck, 2001

Trad 28m
18 Water Closet

Around roof and up crack - possible to belay where wall becomes a slab - 'Small' corner, traverse right along obvious break 10m, diagonally right across to corner and up. Take Care!

Start: 90m right of K.

FA: W.Baird & G.Bradbury, 1979

Trad 40m
22 Pin Ups

A Varied climb with a bit of everything.

Start: 65m right of of WC. Shale band with roof crack above.

FA: P.Young & A.Prehn, 1982

Trad 50m
20 Lunatic Soup

To block, corner, crack, left to ledge and rap.

Start: 150m right again. Track below steep crack right os small black chimney.

FA: N.Deka & B.Cameron, 1988

Trad 20m
20 Bumblies ahoy

Probably done before, but it's a decent line and worth recording.

Crack, ~ 2m to the right of the R facing corner almost directly below 'Blast Off'. Up the clean hand/off width crack to ledge.

Start: Back on the ground below the block

FA: FRA Duanne White, 2006

Trad 20m
Baldur Head
16 American Alpine Heros

Short corner, only done as a warm up for 3/4 crack. Climb gingerly through shale - consider placing cam with a long stick to protect move, up nice but short corner to tree belay.

FA: Marty Doolan, Hugh Ward & Alex Forwell, 16 Feb 2018

Trad 15m
20 3/4 Crack

Up steep layback corner for 10m, traverse left out to arête and up to stand on large block. Up reachy wall past 2 BR to roof, 1 BR then steep moves through roof and up fine crack. Double rack of cams with extra hand size pieces - 4x 2 camalots used on FA.

FA: Hugh Ward, Marty Doolan & Alex Forwell, 16 Feb 2018

Mixed 40m, 3
Odin Head
19 El Dorado
1 19
2 17

The first route you come across after descending the gully. Start 5m right of un climbed thin roof crack behind large block. P1 - Follow the nice finger crack which turns into a hand crack and ends in the small cave, gear belay. P2 – Two #4 Cams make it more enjoyable,Climb out through roof crux and up easy corner to top. Tree belay.

FA: T. Ezekiel, Marty Doolan & M. Wilson, Oct 2015

Trad 45m, 2
20 True dreams

Splitter hand crack. Hard start into flake/hand crack. Up this into tight chimney to ledge. Blast up the hand crack to top.

FA: Ant Rivers & L.Freeman, 2004

FFA: T.Imber & E.Leong, 2004

Trad 40m
21 Dude where's my cam?

Start 20m right of True Dreams. Up off width crack into corner. Climb out through roof on excellent gear and follow the hand crack to the arête. Tricky move up arête past 5 bolts to top.

FA: Mark Wilson, Marty Doolan & T. Ezekiel, Oct 2015

Mixed 45m, 4
22 El Guapo

Alternate start to Sharp shooter. Short, thin pumpy finger crack.

FA: Marty Doolan, 11 Mar 2016

Trad 10m
22 Sharp Shooter

Fantastic climbing up an intimidating line. Start 20m right of DWMC at base of a steep hand crack. Follow hand crack up into roof. Jamb through the roof and follow the splitter crack into large pod. Climb up pod into second roof. Swing out of the roof into the tight hand crack to top. Tree belay. Old School 20 or new school 22

FA: First recorded ascent, Ian Brown & Tom Williams, 1994

Trad 40m
17 Master and the apprentice

The best warm up route at the crag. Start 5m right of SS. Follow hand crack up to large horizontal break. Traverse out to arête and drift slightly left up wall to bolt. Now head back to the arête and climb its right side past 4 bolts to tree belay.

FA: Marty Doolan, Mark Wilson & T.Ezekiel, Oct 2015

Mixed 45m, 5
15 Sated

P1 13. Up RH crack, into chimney for gear, then onto slabby nose. Up to loose blocks and crack belay. P2 15. Up nice leaning R-­‐facing corner to terrace and tree. P3 10. Up crack in middle of slabby wall, left a bit at top.

FA: Ant Rivers & L.Morrison, 2004

Trad 60m, 3
17 Hunger Games

Great bridging up a wide crack. Start 100m right of MATA. Take at least one #5 and selection of big gear. Up corner with committing move of a small ledge. Tree belay

FA: T. Ezekiel & M. Wilson, Sep 2015

Trad 40m
16 Tower of song

Crack to the right of Hunger games, it is in the same little alcove. Odens’ version of flake crack. You will need a 5 and six for the top. Lower offs at the top, and 60m rope gets you to the ground on stretch. L/H variant has been climbed and is thrutchier than it looks

FA: Peter Lowe & T Ezekiel, Jun 2017

Trad 30m
22 Arachnarete

Arete left of Joe Blake. Start up chossy wall on the left and traverse into arete to large thred. Up past wire and cam to ledge. Tricky moves past 2 BR to another break, then continue up arete with ok gear and 4 more bolts. 2 RB belay as for The Joe Blake. Two ropes needed to rap off or do second pitch.

FA: T.Ezekiel, M. Wilson & Marty Doolan, Oct 2015

Mixed 40m, 6
19 Joe Blake
1 19
2 18

Classic of the crag. Start 5m right of AA. P1 - Climb short corner to ledge. Follow the fine hand crack, which tightens to fingers through small overlap to ledge. Two bolt belay. P2 – Up corner to top. Tree belay

FA: J.Kuginis & Ant Rivers, 2004

FFA: P2 T.Ezekiel, M.Wilson & Marty Doolan, 1 Sep 2015

Trad 60m, 2
21 Avarice

Thin finger crack 5m left of ABOTS. Join PV at the horizontal or continue up the wall to join ABOTS at the tree.

FA: Mark Wilson & T.Ezekiel, Oct 2015

Trad 10m
20 Position vacant

A fine looking arête when looking across from Joe Blake. Start 20m right of JB. Up blocky corner for a few metres to horizontal break. Traverse left all the way out to the arête. Follow sharp arête to the top. Tree belay. Single rack of cams to #3

FA: Mark Wilson, T.Ezekiel & Marty Doolan, Oct 2015

Mixed 40m, 9
17 A bit on the side/Morelia’s Pilot

Up blocky corner to tree. Follow the crack up the right wall to tree belay. Not sure if this is the two pitch climb done by A.rivers, J.Wilde

FA: Ant Rivers, J & J.Wilde, 2004

Trad 40m
19 High’s and Lowes

Arete to the right. Start up hand crack to ledge and then onto the arete. Lower off rings at the top and a 60m rope gets you back to the ground.

FA: T Ezekiel & M Cavazzini, Oct 2017

Mixed 30m, 6
16 Munch

P1 25m 16 Hands to tree Anchor P2 25m 13

FA: A.Rivers & J.Wilde, 2004

Trad 50m, 2
16 Mountain Goats

Same start as Munch, then wide crack on the right.

FA: A.Rivers, 2004

Trad 40m, 2
Vidar

Jambing, easy finish on 2nd ledge.

FFA: T.Imber & E.Leong, 2004

Trad 10m
16 Beau Fixe

Short finger crack

FA: A.Rivers & T.Imber, 2004

Trad 8m
Access Gully
Trad
17 Rambling Man
  1. 20m (17) Crack and up wall to block above tree (RH pikers variant at 15)

  2. 10m (11) Ramp and crack

  3. (14) Along ledge to L and up steep blocky passage.

FA: C.Ward, Ant Rivers & S.Dare, 2006

Trad 40m, 3

Showing all 46 routes.