routes as trad in Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head
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Showing all 46 routes.
|21||The Crystal Escalator in the God Palace Department Store
8m left of BDFH at stepped arete, left of undercut chimney. Right wall of arete (#2.5 friend, BR) to ledge (big friend). Left of undercut arete (2 BRs) to friends at big ledge. Off left or up slab.
FA: Wade Stevens, 1995
Start: Right of S. Up the prow.
FA: S.Moon, 1999
|17||★ Power Vacuum
"A surprisingly long climb despite appearances from below. Two fairly good pitches...spoiled somewhat by a scrappy finish."
Start: Clean wide crack leading to a V groove with a bush in it.
FA: M.Colyvan & A.Penney, 1982
|18||★★ Sponsored by the state
FA: Duanne White, Scott Young & Dale Tweedie, 2005
|110m, 4, 6|
|20||★ Club Mac
Start 2 m R of PV, up pockets past bolt to ledge. up to next ledge past bolt, then R to shallow R facing corner/flake. L up this past BR to PV pitch 1 ledge & 2 rings.
FA: Dale Tweedie & Duanne White, 2005
Up corner to slings.
Start: Big orange corner 30m right again.
Probably the first climb done at Ikara. The aid at the start of the second pitch was freed by Joe Friend. Start 33m right at obvious right trending wide yellow crack/corner system. Marked with J.
FFA: Joe Friend 1970s
FA: Bryden Allen 1960s
Sustained and varied climbing up a truly superb finger crack. Marked with AS.
Start: 7m right again at short crack in block.
FA: R.Young, A.Prehn & M.Burton, 1980
...they must have been fighting for it!
Start: 7m right.
FA: G.James, A.McAuley, M.Moore, D.Lawler, R.McKillop & G.Benett, 1995
A continuous, soaring, well-protected crack with minimal crack-climbing required. Some suspect rock. Bring a full rack, and oodles of wires (and a few extra #3/#4 cams for that final traverse)..
Start halfway up the ramp (about 5m left of Blast Off ). Up crack, trending left. 2m below the "shale ledge", traverse left for about 5m along a clean #3/#4 cam sized break then downclimb to the hidden anchors at the end of Jezebel P1. Rap 30m from here to large block.
FA: E.Garbett & M.Wilson, 1992
|22||★★★ Blast Off
An amazing line and excellent climbing.
Start: Left facing corner 25m right of A. Climb up behind weird detached pillar from on top of which the real climbing begins.
FA: K.Bell & his brother., 1979
Start: 43m right of BO. Crack/groove system below a terrifying roof. Pitch 1 30 m up hand crack bypassing 2 small roofs to belay in alcove at start of Bombay chimney Pitch 2 15 m out bottomless/ Bombay chimney to turn lip of roof . Belay or continue up pitch 3 Pitch 3 20 m up crack to belay at tree Pitch 4 15 m to exit traverse right 2 m then up corner and groove to large tree. From here it's a 5 m scramble up a grade 3 slab to the top
FA: Keith Bell (pitches 1 & 3) Ian Thomas (pitch 2)
"The climb that Ikara is famous for and the only one that most people have heard of!" - A.Penney 1982 It is definitely Caladan with a C, a reference to Frank Herbert's Dune series. Start: Corner below crack 33m right of T.
FA: Keith Bell & Ian Thomas
Up to L&W, across this right and up wall and flakes.
Start: On right side of arete right of K.
FA: M.Wilson & B.Harrington, 1992
|16||Lace & Whisky
Crack and flake, then left joining K.
Start: 2.5m right of previous route.
FA: A.Mason, C.Bennett & R.Lebreton, 1985
|24||★★ Serene Machine
Start: 'Arete' right of CT. Carrots.
FA: G.James & W.Stevens, 1996
|17||★ Waltzing Matilda
"An excellent excursion for a hot day. Some tube runners are useful on the 2nd pitch."
Start: Right facing corner about 30m past K. Scramble to base of corner.
FA: C.Dale & A.Penney, 1983
|24||★ The Gift
Crack to offwidth and belay where crack becomes slabby. 2). Up and right around arete, wall and arete, left at last bolt and up to belay. Rap here or continue up crack as for WM.
Start: Right again. Crack and peapod.
FA: S.Wilson & K.Luck, 2001
Around roof and up crack - possible to belay where wall becomes a slab - 'Small' corner, traverse right along obvious break 10m, diagonally right across to corner and up. Take Care!
Start: 90m right of K.
FA: W.Baird & G.Bradbury, 1979
A Varied climb with a bit of everything.
Start: 65m right of of WC. Shale band with roof crack above.
FA: P.Young & A.Prehn, 1982
To block, corner, crack, left to ledge and rap.
Start: 150m right again. Track below steep crack right os small black chimney.
FA: N.Deka & B.Cameron, 1988
|20||★ Bumblies ahoy
Probably done before, but it's a decent line and worth recording.
Crack, ~ 2m to the right of the R facing corner almost directly below 'Blast Off'. Up the clean hand/off width crack to ledge.
Start: Back on the ground below the block
FA: FRA Duanne White, 2006
|16||American Alpine Heros||15m|
|20||★★ 3/4 Crack
Up steep layback corner for 10m, traverse left out to arête and up to stand on large block. Up reachy wall past 2 BR to roof, 1 BR then steep moves through roof and up fine crack. Double rack of cams with extra hand size pieces - 4x 2 camalots used on FA.
|19||★★★ El Dorado
The first route you come across after descending the gully. Start 5m right of un climbed thin roof crack behind large block. P1 - Follow the nice finger crack which turns into a hand crack and ends in the small cave, gear belay. P2 – Two #4 Cams make it more enjoyable,Climb out through roof crux and up easy corner to top. Tree belay.
FA: T. Ezekiel, Marty Doolan & M. Wilson, Oct 2015
|20||★★★ True dreams
Splitter hand crack. Hard start into flake/hand crack. Up this into tight chimney to ledge. Blast up the hand crack to top.
FA: Ant Rivers & L.Freeman, 2004
FFA: T.Imber & E.Leong, 2004
|21||★★ Dude where's my cam?
Start 20m right of True Dreams. Up off width crack into corner. Climb out through roof on excellent gear and follow the hand crack to the arête. Tricky move up arête past 5 bolts to top.
FA: Mark Wilson, Marty Doolan & T. Ezekiel, Oct 2015
|22||★ El Guapo
Alternate start to Sharp shooter. Short, thin pumpy finger crack.
FA: Marty Doolan, 11 Mar 2016
|22||★★★ Sharp Shooter
Fantastic climbing up an intimidating line. Start 20m right of DWMC at base of a steep hand crack. Follow hand crack up into roof. Jamb through the roof and follow the splitter crack into large pod. Climb up pod into second roof. Swing out of the roof into the tight hand crack to top. Tree belay. Old School 20 or new school 22
FA: First recorded ascent, Ian Brown & Tom Williams, 1994
|17||★★ Master and the apprentice
The best warm up route at the crag. Start 5m right of SS. Follow hand crack up to large horizontal break. Traverse out to arête and drift slightly left up wall to bolt. Now head back to the arête and climb its right side past 4 bolts to tree belay.
FA: Marty Doolan, Mark Wilson & T.Ezekiel, Oct 2015
P1 13. Up RH crack, into chimney for gear, then onto slabby nose. Up to loose blocks and crack belay. P2 15. Up nice leaning R-‐facing corner to terrace and tree. P3 10. Up crack in middle of slabby wall, left a bit at top.
FA: Ant Rivers & L.Morrison, 2004
|17||★ Hunger Games
Great bridging up a wide crack. Start 100m right of MATA. Take at least one #5 and selection of big gear. Up corner with committing move of a small ledge. Tree belay
FA: T. Ezekiel & M. Wilson, Sep 2015
|16||Tower of song
Crack to the right of Hunger games, it is in the same little alcove. Odens’ version of flake crack. You will need a 5 and six for the top. Lower offs at the top, and 60m rope gets you to the ground on stretch. L/H variant has been climbed and is thrutchier than it looks
FA: Peter Lowe & T Ezekiel, Jun 2017
Arete left of Joe Blake. Start up chossy wall on the left and traverse into arete to large thred. Up past wire and cam to ledge. Tricky moves past 2 BR to another break, then continue up arete with ok gear and 4 more bolts. 2 RB belay as for The Joe Blake. Two ropes needed to rap off or do second pitch.
FA: T.Ezekiel, M. Wilson & Marty Doolan, Oct 2015
|19||★★★ Joe Blake
Classic of the crag. Start 5m right of AA. P1 - Climb short corner to ledge. Follow the fine hand crack, which tightens to fingers through small overlap to ledge. Two bolt belay. P2 – Up corner to top. Tree belay
FA: J.Kuginis & Ant Rivers, 2004
FFA: P2 T.Ezekiel, M.Wilson & Marty Doolan, 1 Sep 2015
Thin finger crack 5m left of ABOTS. Join PV at the horizontal or continue up the wall to join ABOTS at the tree.
FA: Mark Wilson & T.Ezekiel, Oct 2015
|20||★★ Position vacant
A fine looking arête when looking across from Joe Blake. Start 20m right of JB. Up blocky corner for a few metres to horizontal break. Traverse left all the way out to the arête. Follow sharp arête to the top. Tree belay. Single rack of cams to #3
FA: Mark Wilson, T.Ezekiel & Marty Doolan, Oct 2015
|17||★ A bit on the side/Morelia’s Pilot
Up blocky corner to tree. Follow the crack up the right wall to tree belay. Not sure if this is the two pitch climb done by A.rivers, J.Wilde
FA: Ant Rivers, J & J.Wilde, 2004
|19||High’s and Lowes
Arete to the right. Start up hand crack to ledge and then onto the arete. Lower off rings at the top and a 60m rope gets you back to the ground.
FA: T Ezekiel & M Cavazzini, Oct 2017
P1 25m 16 Hands to tree Anchor P2 25m 13
FA: A.Rivers & J.Wilde, 2004
Same start as Munch, then wide crack on the right.
FA: A.Rivers, 2004
Jambing, easy finish on 2nd ledge.
FFA: T.Imber & E.Leong, 2004
Short finger crack
FA: A.Rivers & T.Imber, 2004
P1 17 Crack and up wall to block above tree (RH pikers variant at 15), P2 11 Ramp and crack P3 14 Along ledge to L and up steep blocky passage.
FA: C.Ward, Ant Rivers & S.Dare, 2006
Showing all 46 routes.