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Description

Keeping up the apparent Blue Mountains traditions of carrots, mixed climbing and tree belays!

Useful Info: A Special Plea:- This is not parkland and is surrounded by private property, so it would be beneficial to all if we treat the area with care and consideration.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

Turn left off Darling Causeway approximately 1.3kms after 'Hartley' Vale Rd (heading toward Bell). Follow track for 200m then left up hill to large clearing and dumped rubbish. At clump of 7 eucalypts turn right (several tracks lead out of the clearing) and follow track to obvious parking bay, for 2 or 3 cars.

Walk down track and straight ahead to rock ledges and top of 'Ivory Tower' Buttress. The cairn on the left before the bottom of the track heading to the 'Ivory Tower' takes you to the abseil point above the Black Slab. You will require two ropes to abseil!

There is also an abseil point above Aerial Manouveres from which it is possible to reach the ground on a single rope via a second abseil from a tree.

To walk down, follow the cliff edge around to the right (facing out) approaching the waterfall. Turn left at small cairn – there is an awkward section involving a 3m down climb. There is a track of sorts around the base of the cliff.

© (secretary)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
14 * A Bit On The Side Trad 22m

Obvious crack that splits the sth side of the buttress. Enjoyable & well protected.

FA: H.Luxford, R.Harris, 2001

2
12 A Bit Extra Trad 18m

Pleasant crack climbing. Its possible to walk of the halfway ledge INTO the gully. Though easy to the top there is a short DROP hindering access to ground level.

FA: Harris, Luxford, 2001

3
18 ** Hidden Corner Trad 26m

Good. Well protected corner crack. Rap of gum at top!

FA: Luxford, Harris, 2001

4
17 * Dances with Myths Trad 25m

The first corner about 40m left (nth) of the waterfall.

FA: Luxford, Harris, 2001

5
17 *** Bringabeeralong Trad 45m
  1. corner to 35m ledge to chimney to tree belay!

  2. 10m to top. Take cams.

FA: Luxford, Harris, 2001

6
  1. 16m to ledge & DBB.

  2. 34m left around nose, over bulge, left to DBR. To tree belay! 'Small' cams.

  3. 15m up wall and crack.

Start: Start as for 'Ivory Tower'

FA: B.Cameron, Luxford A.L, 2000

7
14 * Fat Fingers Trad 60m

Start: Start as for 'Ivory Tower'.

  1. To ledge and DBB

  2. 30m to undercling, left to wall/corner to tree belay!

  3. rightish up wall

FA: Cameron, Luxford, 2000

8
18 * Hyperbole Trad 29m

Variation pitch for 'Fat Fingers'. as for FF to traverse, right across this to DBB & large cam. 3. 15m right face to ledge. 4. up.

FA: Cameron, Luxford, 2000

9
14 ** Ivory Tower Trad 55m

Up the centre of the main buttress.

  1. 20 m Short arete and ledges to BR, traverse L to crack, up it, then right to tree.

  2. 20 m. Crack then continue up to DBB.

  3. 15 m Line of BRs up off-width corner crack (crux) and exposed traverse L under roof to arete, then up easy ground to top.

FA: Luxford, Cameron A.L, 2000

10
19 Maiden Voyage Unknown 52m
11
14 All Most A Legend Trad 42m

Crack/corner 25m sth of IT. Enjoyable! Single pitch to tree!

FA: Luxford, Harris, 2001

13
14 * Cirquinox Unknown 46m
14
12 * Day of Redemption Trad 42m

Obvious crack on righthand end of blackish wall right of main buttress.

  1. 12m crack to tree!

  2. corner to ledge – pull up past BR onto wall (!) to top.

FA: H Luxford, B Cameron, 2000

17
17 * Covert Corner Trad 40m

Short, 90deg corner immediately right of DOR.

  1. 30m corner to bush to chimney to crack left side of chimney to ledge & DBB.

  2. 10m left 2m and up to DBB.

FA: Luxford, Harris, 2002

18
19 French Corner Trad 20m
19
20
16 Winter Magic Trad 45m
21
18 ** Balance of Power Trad 48m

Pitch 1: Start up corner then step left onto face and follow line of bolts to ledge and tree belay. Pitch 2: Up and trend right to roof. Clip FH on lip and pull roof move to top-out to chains.

FA: H.Luxford/B.Cameron, 2000

22
17 * Aerial Manoeuvres Trad 45m

45m slab/corner past tree INTO chimney, left onto wall past BRs, left onto wall to top.

FA: Luxford, Cameron, 2000

23
17 * Dawn Patrol Trad 45m

Left facing corner and slab.1. 25m up easy slab, corner to large ledge and belay. 2. Straight up corner.

FA: Luxford, Cameron, 2001

24

Short corner left end of black slab.

  1. 25m corner to overhang, left to BR and up to DBB.

  2. 20m up to rap point.

FA: B.Cameron/ H.Luxford

25
19 ** Black Tie Affair Trad 48m

Delicate. Take small to medium cams. 1. 28m Stick clip FH. Left to large ledge, up to BR, left diagonally to ledge, leftish then up to DBB. 2. 20m left past FH then rightish then up to abseil point.

FA: H. Luxford/ R.Harris, 2001

26

Start in middle of black slab.

  1. 30 m Up and slightly R past BR and FH then left to ledge at ~6 m. Follow BRs up tending left to ledge (DBB).

  2. 25m 2m R past BR then up on better holds to trees.

FA: Luxford, Cameron A.L, 2001

27
19 ** Black Gold Trad 50m

Start up DOG, but step right to ledge on BV. Up weakness, and up tending left past black carot bolts ~2-3 m R of BV.

28
18 * Black Magic Trad 50m

P1 23m, P2 27m.

FA: Harry Luxford, Bruce Cameron, 2001

29
  1. 23m up to FH then rightish to curving overlap, along this to top and tree!

Start: Start as for BM.

FA: H Luxford, B Cameron., 2002

30
15 * Black Velvet Trad 50m

Start at base of gully at right end of slab. 1. traverse left to BR, diagonally up to DBR then straight to top.

FA: Luxford, Cameron, 2000

31
18 Rotten Jonny Unknown 40m
32
16 * Age of Consent Trad 50m

3 wandering pitches.

FA: Cameron, Luxford, 2001

33
19 ** Unknown? Unknown 45m

Starts at same crack as Araluen Peach. Goes up to tree and continues on left side of arete with several BR's and small/medium cams.

FA: ?

34
18 ** Araluen Peach Trad 45m

Finishes up the square orange arete 20m R of the Black Slab. Start up short corner crack then swing steeply R around arete to bolt on face and up slabby face to L arete and steep finish.

FA: Cameron, Luxford, 2001

35
18 ** Sandstone Cowboys Trad 45m

Reddish corner crack western most point of the buttress. 1. 25m corner to BR, left face to middle of wall, past right hand FH to ledge, right to BR to ledge and DBB. 2. 20m to ledge, left of nose to ledge and FH, diagonally left up overhanging wall to TBB.

FA: 24/11/2001

36
15 ** Rave on Mr Yates Trad 40m

Up short yellow corner, right to wildish crack and up.

FA: Cameron, Luxford, 2000

37
16 Mr Yates Right Wall Unknown 30m
38

On separated block right of Mr.Yates. 1. 18m tree belay! 2. 22m up following line of BRs

FA: Cameron, Luxford A.L, 2001

39
17 * Salivation Army Unknown 28m
40
14 * Fancy Dancers Trad 43m

Right facing yellowish corner.

Start: starts 75m right of HttS.

FA: Luxford, Cameron, 2002

42
19 * Status Seekers Trad 48m

Corner crack with roof at start. 1. 33m up to roof then follow BRs to ledge DBB. 2. 15m right to groove and easy slab.

FA: Luxford, Harris, 2003

43
17 Robin Corner Trad 40m
  1. 25m to roof but straight up when in the open. 2. 15m behind tree to ledge then as for SS.

Start: Start as for SS.

FA: Luxford, Harris, 2003

44
17 * South End Unknown 30m
45

Start left of arête, up crack to tree. Then left side of arête. BRs and cams.

46
17 ** FD Direct Trad 40m

Follow line of BRs to bulge and finish as for FD.

Start: Start on wall a couple of metres right of corner crack.

FA: Luxford, Harris, 2002

47

Crack then left ignoring ledge to left side of arête. One pitch.

FA: Luxford, Harris, 2002

48

18m start as for AAL to obvious traverse. Make sure you have a 3.5 'Camelot'. 2. 32m across ledge, up thin ramp to ledge left to bush? Then to top.

FA: Luxford, Harris, 2001

49

DOR to tree! To wall at BR, to arête and up.

FA: Luxford, Harris, 2002

Open trips

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