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Showing all 55 routes

Grade Route Style Popularity
Main wall
26 ** Castor's Dinner Date

Bold sports climbing at its finest. Batman start, suck your gonads up and steel thy self for a memorable journey.

FA: Chris Coppard, 2012

Sport 25m
28 ** Pollux and the Pussycat

Start off the large cairn and head straight up the left side of the arete and wall above to some long moves.

FFA: Chris Coppard, 2012

Sport 25m
27 ** A Parisian Feast

Start as per Pollux and head up the line of bolts into the tecky dihidral above.

FFA: Rowan Druce, 5th May 2012

Sport 25m
31 *** Aristocat

Start from the cairn and head up and across the right face to rejoin the arete at half height. Boulder up leaning arete to finish above the small roof.

FFA: Lee Cossey, 18th Jan 2012

Sport 25m
33 *** Tiger Cat

Wowsers! All time mega classic. Start as per Aristocat, boulder its main crux and then head into a mind boggling amount of sustained climbing, culminating with a potentially heart breaking finish. Absolute stonker!

FFA: Lee Cossey, 2013

Sport 25m
33 *** Beta Vinyl

Starts 5m right of Tiger Cat, cross the Velvet project at two thirds height, briefly into Tiger Snatch and gently rightward to motor up the headwall. Hoik your rig left and right while trying not to feel like a flag in a stiff wind. Sitting Bull joins into the same headwall finish.

FFA: Lee Cossey, 13th Feb 2013

Sport 30m
? Lee Closed Project

Starts a few meters right of Beta Vinyl and goes up somewhere!

Sport Project
? Kitten Mittens project

Tom O'Halloran closed project. 8m right of Beta Vinyl. Heads straight up, passing through the left end of the low horizontal break of Velvet project / Tiger Snatch.

Sport
? Velvet Love project

Julian Saunders closed project. Start 2m right of Tom's project behind the large rock at cliff base. Head up and left to join the last few bolts of Tiger Cat.

Sport Project 25m
30 *** Tiger Snatch

Variant finish to Julian's project. Climb for 15m to obvious rest at small break. Head right to a funky crux, then back left to join Tiger Cat at the lip, just under the chain. Originally graded 29, general consensus is that it is a little harder. Enjoy Yourself!

FFA: Lee Cossey, 2012

Sport 25m
30 *** Love Cats

For the most part this a Tiger Snatch variant. More 'doable' than Tiger Snatch as it avoids the complicated dyno in its upper section, albeit with an extra 20 move price tag. A route for the pumpers. Head left off the halfway rest as per Velvet Love. Clip a bolt, and then head upward and back to the right to clip a bolt of Beta Vinyl. Rejoin Tiger Snatch to the chain.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2013

Sport 25m
31 Tiger Vinyl

A varient finish to Tiger Snatch. Instead of heading left under the final roof, head right to finish up Beta Vinyl.

FFA: Lee Cossey, 13th Feb 2013

Sport 30m
32 *** Sitting Bull

Originally bolted by Rowan Druce and generously offered to the masses, Tom O'Halloran, seeing a classic on offer, was quick to pounce. Start as per Brummel Hook, then head straight up the immaculate orange stone to finish on the high black head wall. Slightly easier than Tiger Cat, this may see an upgrade.

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, 2012

Sport
30 *** Brummel Hook

Start 2m right of Tiger Snatch before the ledge drops away. Sustained face climbing leads to difficult roof moves on typically wet holds. Breach this and head rightward into the water runnel.

FFA: Rowan Druce, 2012

Sport 30m
32 *** Bandula

One of the best lines at the crag!! Heads straight up the high flake above the Brummel Hook roof and keeps on going and going. Squeeze hard, keep tension and don't let go.

FFA: Rowan Druce, 2013

Sport
29 *** Ristretto

Start as per Brummel Hook and head right at the second bolt. Sustained and technical face climbing leads to a vague 'letter box' rest, and a series of boulder problems above.

FFA: Julian Saunders, 2012

Sport 15m
? Double Ristretto project

Julian Saunders closed project. From the chains of Ristretto launch through the roof into what has to rate as one of the best dynos ever in the entire world. If you hold the swing, head right along the lip, up the wall, through the bulge, and into the the high corner systems. A 70m rope is a minimum if you are lowering from the chain.

Sport Project 35m
? Palomino project

Julian Saunders closed project. Start a few meters right of Ristretto. Cross Ristretto and head straight up between it and Brummell Hook.

Sport Project
29 Getting rid of the Milkman

Roof double dyno extension of Ristretto. Do Ristretto, dyno through the roof then keep on truckin up the face into the big block and break. Continue up to join into the last few meters of Brummel Hook. Full value

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, 2013

Sport 30m
? Ben Cossey projects

There are several lines to the right of Ristretto that end under 'the great roof' that are in the process of being bolted.

Sport Project
? Project 3

Lee Cossey closed project. Starts just shy of the wall splitting arete 15m right of Ristretto. Tends rightward to breach the main roof close to its right hand end, and up wall above.

Sport Project
? Lord Elphinstone project

Rowan Druce closed project. Straight up the obvious arete at the right end of the main wall.

Sport
? The Elephant man project

Start as for Lord Elphinstone but then head diagonally across the wall to the right. Please talk with Rowan if you want to attempt this line while it is still a project.

Sport Project
? The Milkbar Project

Tom O'Halloran closed project. Start as for Lord Elphinstone and The Elephant Man then heads right and all the way up up up to and through the top roofs.

Sport Project 45m
? We Crossed Eternity project

Tom O'Halloran closed project. Starts as per Green grass and head left at the second bolt.

Sport Project
32 *** Zigzagonal

The journey to the center of the earth could not be this epic. Start as per Green Grass diverging to the left at the seventh bolt when Green grass heads back to the right. Up Up Up, staying generally just to the left of Green Grass to finish under the high roof.

FFA: Lee Cossey, 2012

Sport 35m
32 High Hopes

Lee Cossey generously gave this route to a visiting Frenchman who had become rather enamoured with it. Departs Green Grass after its crux and heads straight up and through a series of roofs and beyond. Finish at the chains for Zigzagonal.

FFA: Quentin Chastagnier, 2013

Sport 35m
29 *** Green Grass

Started at grade 28, quickly went to 29 and may see another advance yet. Either climb with second bolt clipped, or use locking biners on the first (a backclip would see two people go to the valley floor!). Climb up and gently rightward to roof. Head around the lip and hit the accelerator. Traverse left above the lip, up several meters and then break right and up until your forearms resemble base ball bats and you feel like if you fall you will land in the valley way below. Use a minimum 70m rope or you may well land in the valley.

FFA: Lee Cossey, 2012

Sport 30m
? Chris Flowers closed project

Not sure of the start yet, but it joins Green Grass on the upper headwall.

Sport Project
Gay Paris Wall
? *** Amanda Proj

Amanda closed project. Starts up CMBL and after a couple bolts head out left through the 2 high orange streaks

Sport Project 20m
32 *** Shame at the Anvil

Batman or make yourself a Bachar ladder to reach the start. Then up a couple of the ladder rungs to get into the proper rock. Blast straight up and up and up to get yourself under the high bulge. Some tricky moves manoeuvring around the bulge then out left through the roof to turn the lip and climb the last few meters up the slab to high anchor. May be easier?

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, 2013

Sport 35m
? *** House fire in the origami district

Matt 'Slow Banga' Norgrove closed project. Light your match and charge on up the middle of the wall and out the lip before you run out of paper to burn

Sport Project 35m
? *** Mr Stagger Lee

Tom O'Halloran closed project. Starts the same as House fire for the first 5m then sweeps to the right through a shallow groove, up on some bubbly flakes and tends slighty right again up on the high pocketed prow to finish on the right of the roof

Sport Project 30m
Dumbo Love Sector
26 ** Kung Fu Muscle

A long batman start leads to primo thrutching up the blunt prow.

FFA: Scott Boladeras, 2012

Sport 20m
32 *** Shogun

Line of bolts right of Kung Fu Muscle and left of The Last Ninja. A unique route for the mountains, bouldery and sustained hard pockets. A visionary bolting effort by Scotty B and inspired siege by Logan.

FA: Logan Barber, 19th Oct 2013

Sport Project 25m
27 *** The Last Ninja

Deservedly popular route. Start right of Shogun , head up and left to the base of the right leaning arch. Punch your way up this and through the ever steepening wall to find some respite on the lesser overhanging headwall.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 2012

Sport 25m
28 ** One Inch Punch

Shared start with The Last Ninja. Head up to desperate boulder problem and right through intimidating roof flake.

FA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 14th May 2013

Sport 25m, 10
28 ** Fists Of Fury

Amazing line with a tough little beta crux.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 2012

Sport 25m
26 *** Cobra Kai Connection

Mega pumper that connects the start of Fists Of Fury (to the fifth or sixth bolt) into Chao Wa Punch Kick. Take all your draws and you may need to borrow some to make up the 18 that are required.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 2012

Sport 35m
28 * Chao Wa Punch Kick

Bouldery start to gain the saw tooth feature at 10m, and then straight up the never ending wall.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 2012

Sport 35m
21 * Heisenburg Corner

The obvious wide crack/corner 8m to the right of Chao Wa Punch Kick. Take all the big cams you can rustle up. Finishes at double rings.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 2012

Trad 35m
? Romancing The Stone

Corinne Gwyther closed project. Start at the base of the wall to the right of Heisenburg Corner. Traverse to arete, head up and come back onto the face to reach the roof. Around this and continue up the face.

Sport Project
? Project 7

Julian Saunders closed project. Start as per project 6 but continue up arete to finish under large roof.

Sport Project
? Project 8

Julian Saunders closed project. To the right of Project 7 is an obvious overhanging corner. Up this and around the arete to the right to get established for the face/arete above.

Sport Project
29 ** Treadstone

There are three routes that share a common start marked by a small 'dry stone' platform with an undercling horn above it. Boulder up the side pull feature to attain a good break. Traverse left and up through some difficult moves, then continue up for more of the same.

FFA: Julian Saunders, 2012

Sport 30m
? Treadstone direct project

Julian Saunders closed project. A hellishly long jump to join Treadstone.

Sport Project
27 *** The knitting Cirlce

Full of funky sequences and memorable holds. Start as per Treadstone but continue up for one bolt more before moving left, over vague lip and into the shallow groove. Some awesome sections above may have you think you are all done. Wrong! Opinion is mixed as to whether it is 27 or 28.

FFA: Julian Saunders, 2012

Sport 30m
26 *** Fallopian Jezebels

It is not uncommon to hear whimpering from high up on this super classic. Start as per Treadstone but head straight up the seam and onto the arete above. Continue up the face onto the white streaked, water washed stone, where the bolts cease and the fun factor goes redline.

FFA: Julian Saunders, 2012

Sport 30m
? Project 9

Emil Mandyczewsky closed project. Starts 5m right of Treadstone in the 'bowl'. Gently left and up to join Fallopian Jezabels.

Sport Project
? Project 12

Emil Mandyczewsky closed project. Start in deep in the bowl of doom.

Sport Project
? Dumbo Love Project

Closed project. Start on the right side of the bowl and climb up and into the corner above.

Sport Project
? Project 10

Chris Coghill closed project. Start 2m right of Dumbo Love project. Straight up!

Sport Project
25 Person Of Interest (chopped)

The scene of yet another ethics debacle, where visions collide, egos are bruised and Negotiation is a primitive wallflower. Fact 1. Emil, after considering the amount of available gear placements across the whole route, and much discussion with other developers at Elphinstone, opted to bolt the line and subsequently did the first ascent. Fact 2. Rowan returned from overseas and took umbrage with Emil since he wanted to attempt it on gear. After having had numerous ascents Rowan chopped the routes bolts. One bolt was left in the route toward the top, presumedly due to lack of gear.

FA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 2012

Sport 40m
26 Side Swipe

Start as per Person of interest sans bolts. After entering the corner head right past a bolt and up the arete to rejoin Person of interest at its last remaining bolt.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2013

Sport 40m
? Project 13

Simon Atkins closed project.

Sport Project

Showing all 55 routes