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Description

Many routes are 35m+ and will make your forearms feel like they have been bludgeoned by blood. Sun till 11am in the summer, and none in the winter. Wind proof gear is a must in the winter.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

After rapping in, walk down the track and turn right. The wall looms over you after about 50m. Mind the cliff edge, there are spots where you wouldn't want to trip!

Descent Notes

Mind your rope length as routes often lower off beyond the cliff edge, or at the very least significantly lower than where the route starts. You will need a 70m ROPE MINIMUM!

Ethic inherited from Elphinstone

There are many CLOSED PROJECTS in both sectors. As a matter of respect, stay off them unless you have permission from the person who bolted it or the project becomes listed as open.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
26 ** Castor's Dinner Date Sport 25m

Bold sports climbing at its finest. Batman start, suck your gonads up and steel thy self for a memorable journey.

FA: Chris Coppard, 2012

2

Start off the large cairn and head straight up the left side of the arete and wall above to some long moves.

FFA: Chris Coppard, 2012

3
27 ** A Parisian Feast Sport 25m

Start as per Pollux and head up the line of bolts into the tecky dihidral above.

FFA: Rowan Druce, 2012

4
31 *** Aristocat Sport 25m

Start from the cairn and head up and across the right face to rejoin the arete at half height. Boulder up leaning arete to finish above the small roof.

FFA: Lee Cossey, 2012

5
33 *** Tiger Cat Sport 25m

Wowsers! All time mega classic. Start as per Aristocat, boulder its main crux and then head into a mind boggling amount of sustained climbing, culminating with a potentially heart breaking finish. Absolute stonker!

FFA: Lee Cossey, 2013

6
33 *** Beta Vinyl Sport 30m

Starts 5m right of Tiger Cat, cross the Velvet project at two thirds height, briefly into Tiger Snatch and gently rightward to motor up the headwall. Hoik your rig left and right while trying not to feel like a flag in a stiff wind. Sitting Bull joins into the same headwall finish.

FFA: Lee Cossey, 2013

7
Lee Closed Project Sport Project

Starts a few meters right of Beta Vinyl and goes up somewhere!

8

Tom O'Halloran closed project. 8m right of Beta Vinyl. Heads straight up, passing through the left end of the low horizontal break of Velvet project / Tiger Snatch.

9
Velvet Love project Sport Project 25m

Julian Saunders closed project. Start 2m right of Tom's project behind the large rock at cliff base. Head up and left to join the last few bolts of Tiger Cat.

10
30 *** Tiger Snatch Sport 25m

Variant finish to Julian's project. Climb for 15m to obvious rest at small break. Head right to a funky crux, then back left to join Tiger Cat at the lip, just under the chain. Originally graded 29, general consensus is that it is a little harder. Enjoy Yourself!

FFA: Lee Cossey, 2012

11
30 *** Love Cats Sport 25m

For the most part this a Tiger Snatch variant. More 'doable' than Tiger Snatch as it avoids the complicated dyno in its upper section, albeit with an extra 20 move price tag. A route for the pumpers. Head left off the halfway rest as per Velvet Love. Clip a bolt, and then head upward and back to the right to clip a bolt of Beta Vinyl. Rejoin Tiger Snatch to the chain.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2013

12
31 Tiger Vinyl Sport 30m

A varient finish to Tiger Snatch. Instead of heading left under the final roof, head right to finish up Beta Vinyl.

FFA: Lee Cossey, 2013

13
32 *** Sitting Bull Sport

Originally bolted by Rowan Druce and generously offered to the masses, Tom O'Halloran, seeing a classic on offer, was quick to pounce. Start as per Brummel Hook, then head straight up the immaculate orange stone to finish on the high black head wall. Slightly easier than Tiger Cat, this may see an upgrade.

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, 2012

14
30 *** Brummel Hook Sport 30m

Start 2m right of Tiger Snatch before the ledge drops away. Sustained face climbing leads to difficult roof moves on typically wet holds. Breach this and head rightward into the water runnel.

FFA: Rowan Druce, 2012

15
32 *** Bandula Sport

One of the best lines at the crag!! Heads straight up the high flake above the Brummel Hook roof and keeps on going and going. Squeeze hard, keep tension and don't let go.

FFA: Rowan Druce, 2013

16
29 *** Ristretto Sport 15m

Start as per Brummel Hook and head right at the second bolt. Sustained and technical face climbing leads to a vague 'letter box' rest, and a series of boulder problems above.

FFA: Julian Saunders, 2012

17
Double Ristretto project Sport Project 35m

Julian Saunders closed project. From the chains of Ristretto launch through the roof into what has to rate as one of the best dynos ever in the entire world. If you hold the swing, head right along the lip, up the wall, through the bulge, and into the the high corner systems. A 70m rope is a minimum if you are lowering from the chain.

18
Palomino project Sport Project

Julian Saunders closed project. Start a few meters right of Ristretto. Cross Ristretto and head straight up between it and Brummell Hook.

19

Roof double dyno extension of Ristretto. Do Ristretto, dyno through the roof then keep on truckin up the face into the big block and break. Continue up to join into the last few meters of Brummel Hook. Full value

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, 2013

20
Ben Cossey projects Sport Project

There are several lines to the right of Ristretto that end under 'the great roof' that are in the process of being bolted.

21
Project 3 Sport Project

Lee Cossey closed project. Starts just shy of the wall splitting arete 15m right of Ristretto. Tends rightward to breach the main roof close to its right hand end, and up wall above.

22

Rowan Druce closed project. Straight up the obvious arete at the right end of the main wall.

23

Start as for Lord Elphinstone but then head diagonally across the wall to the right. Please talk with Rowan if you want to attempt this line while it is still a project.

24
The Milkbar Project Sport Project 45m

Tom O'Halloran closed project. Start as for Lord Elphinstone and The Elephant Man then heads right and all the way up up up to and through the top roofs.

25

Tom O'Halloran closed project. Starts as per Green grass and head left at the second bolt.

26
32 *** Zigzagonal Sport 35m

The journey to the center of the earth could not be this epic. Start as per Green Grass diverging to the left at the seventh bolt when Green grass heads back to the right. Up Up Up, staying generally just to the left of Green Grass to finish under the high roof.

FFA: Lee Cossey, 2012

27
32 High Hopes Sport 35m

Lee Cossey generously gave this route to a visiting Frenchman who had become rather enamoured with it. Departs Green Grass after its crux and heads straight up and through a series of roofs and beyond. Finish at the chains for Zigzagonal.

FFA: Quentin Chastagnier, 2013

28
29 *** Green Grass Sport 30m

Started at grade 28, quickly went to 29 and may see another advance yet. Either climb with second bolt clipped, or use locking biners on the first (a backclip would see two people go to the valley floor!). Climb up and gently rightward to roof. Head around the lip and hit the accelerator. Traverse left above the lip, up several meters and then break right and up until your forearms resemble base ball bats and you feel like if you fall you will land in the valley way below. Use a minimum 70m rope or you may well land in the valley.

FFA: Lee Cossey, 2012

29

Not sure of the start yet, but it joins Green Grass on the upper headwall.