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Description

Many routes are 35m+ and will make your forearms feel like they have been bludgeoned by blood. Sun till 11 AM in the summer. Starts getting shade at 9 AM AEDT and is fully shaded by 10 AM AEDT at equinox (Mar/Sep) (or 8 AM / 9AM AEST). No sun in winter. Wind proof gear is a must in the winter.

Access issues inherited from Radiata Plateau

The vast majority of crags in this area are actually located on private property, and climbers access could be revoked at any time. There is an active community campaign to stop any housing development and make this public land. Be friendly and courteous to any non-climbers you see on the plateau - they could be the owners!

Approach

After rapping in, walk 15m down the track and turn right. The wall looms over you after about 50m. Mind the cliff edge very close to the somewhat loose shaley track, it is a very big drop and there are spots where you wouldn't want to trip as it would definitely lead to a 50m death fall. As if that wasn’t sketchy enough, a tiger snake has been seen occupying one of the small cave slots ON the track, about 20m R of Tiger Snatch, where a single misstep in fright would certainly result in a 50m death fall. The chopped bolts evidence many people's desire for a safety line along here ... and others' disagreement.

Descent notes

Mind your rope length as routes often lower off beyond the cliff edge, or at the very least significantly lower than where the route starts. You will need a 70m ROPE MINIMUM! And tie a knot in the end of your rope.

Ethic inherited from Elphinstone

There are many CLOSED PROJECTS in both sectors. As a matter of respect, stay off them unless you have permission from the person who bolted it or the project becomes listed as open.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Bold sports climbing at its finest, if that's your thing. But almost no one does this route. Batman start, suck your gonads up and steel thy self for a memorable journey, including some very long runouts in the top half.

FA: Chris Coppard, Jan 2012

Start off the large cairn and head straight up the left side of the arete and wall above to some long moves. Has a couple of runouts but on quite easy moves.

FFA: Chris Coppard, Jan 2012

Start as per Pollux and head up the line of bolts into the techy dihedral above.

FFA: Rowan Druce, 5 May 2012

Start from the cairn and head up and across the right face to rejoin the arete at half height. Boulder up leaning arete to finish above the small roof.

FFA: Lee Cossey, 18 Jan 2012

Wowsers! All time mega classic. Start as per Aristocat, boulder its main crux and then head into a mind boggling amount of sustained climbing, culminating with a potentially heart breaking finish. Absolute stonker!

FFA: Lee Cossey, Jan 2013

Starts 5m right of Tiger Cat, cross the Velvet project at two thirds height, briefly into Tiger Snatch and gently rightward to motor up the headwall. Hoik your rig left and right while trying not to feel like a flag in a stiff wind. Sitting Bull joins into the same headwall finish.

FFA: Lee Cossey, 13 Feb 2013

Starts a few meters right of Beta Vinyl and goes up somewhere! This is the one with several fixed biners in the first 15m.

Start 8m right of Beta Vinyl, 3m L of Tiger Snatch. Heads straight up, passing through the left end of the low horizontal break of Velvet project / Tiger Snatch.

FA: Tom O'Halloran, 10 Nov 2016

Julian Saunders closed project. Start 3m right of Kitten Mittens behind the large rock at cliff base. Head up and left to join the last few bolts of Tiger Cat.

This variant finish to Julian's project has turned out to be the most popular route on the wall. Climb for 15m to obvious rest at small break. Head right to a funky crux, then back left to join Tiger Cat at the lip, just under the chain. Originally graded 29, general consensus is that it is a little harder. Enjoy Yourself!

FFA: Lee Cossey, Aug 2012

For the most part this a Tiger Snatch variant. More 'doable' than Tiger Snatch as it avoids the complicated dyno in its upper section, albeit with an extra 20 move price tag. A route for the pumpers. Head left off the halfway rest as per Velvet Love. Clip a bolt, and then head upward and back to the right to clip a bolt of Beta Vinyl. Rejoin Tiger Snatch to the chain.

FA: Julian Saunders, Nov 2013

A varient finish to Tiger Snatch. Instead of heading left under the final roof, head right to finish up Beta Vinyl. Tom O'Halloran sent a similar link called Love Vinyl, also 31, which stays in Love Cats all the way to Beta Vinyl then takes Beta Vinyl to the top.

FFA: Lee Cossey, 13 Feb 2013

Originally bolted by Rowan Druce and generously offered to the masses, Tom O'Halloran, seeing a classic on offer, was quick to pounce. Start as per Brummel Hook (also possible to start up 1st 2 bolts of Tiger Snatch), then head straight up the immaculate orange stone to finish on the high black head wall. Slightly easier than Tiger Cat and originally given 32, but has now seen an upgrade.

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, Sep 2012

Climb Sitting Bull to the final break. Instead of heading up and left, go straight up and right to join into the fridge hug section of Bandula. Finish as for Bandula. Lots of moves, no rest!

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, 20 Mar 2016

One of the best lines at the crag!! Climb Brummel Hook for 18m to just above the roof. Where Brummel Hook drifts R, instead head straight up the orange flake and keep on going and going. Squeeze hard, keep tension and don't let go.

FFA: Rowan Druce, Jan 2013

Start 2m right of Tiger Snatch before the ledge drops away. Sustained face climbing leads to difficult roof moves on typically wet holds. Breach this and head rightward into the water runnel. 60m rope is only barely enough to lower off last bolt.

FFA: Rowan Druce, 2012

Climb the first six bolts of Ristretto to the letterbox slot just above a small rooflet. Moves to the left and then straight up the wall between Ristretto and Brummel Hook. Make like a bird through the roof and continue on to finish as per Brummel Hook.

FA: Julian Saunders, 27 Mar 2016

Start as per Brummel Hook and head 5m right at the second bolt. Sustained and technical face climbing leads to a vague 'letter box' rest, and a series of boulder problems above to an anchor underneath the big roof.

FFA: Julian Saunders, Sep 2012

Julian Saunders closed project. From the chains of Ristretto launch through the roof into what has to rate as one of the best dynos ever in the entire world. If you hold the swing, head right along the lip, up the wall, through the bulge, and into the high corner system. A 70m rope is a minimum if you are lowering from the chain.

Roof double dyno extension of Ristretto. Do Ristretto, dyno through the roof then keep on truckin up the face into the big block and break. Continue up to join into the last few meters of Brummel Hook. Full value

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, 2013

There are several lines to the right of Ristretto that end under 'the great roof' that are in the process of being bolted.

A fun and pumpy route with good holds following a boney start. Follow the first 8 bolts of Schweinebaumeln then step left following a short flake to end beneath the main roof.

FFA: lee cossey, 1 Mar

"Dangle pigs". Australia's 2nd 35. Formerly a Lee Cossey project, generously gifted to Alex to keep him occupied. Starts just shy of the wall splitting arete 15m right of Ristretto. Tends rightward to breach the main roof close to its right hand end, and up wall above.

Set by Lee Cossey

FFA: Alex Megos, 10 Apr 2015

Rowan Druce closed project. Straight up the obvious arete at the right end of the main wall.

Start as for Lord Elphinstone but then head diagonally across the wall to the right. Please talk with Rowan if you want to attempt this line while it is still a project.

Start as for Lord Elphinstone and The Elephant Man then heads right and all the way up up up to the top roofs. At grade 33 it stops at the hands free rest at the base of the final roof. Extending it through the final (v11??) roof boulder is a Tom O'Halloran closed project.

FA: Tom O'Halloran, 11 Nov 2016

Tom O'Halloran closed project. Starts as per Green Grass and head left at the second bolt.

Climbs Zigzagonal to the upper crux then head left for the last bolt of Elephant Man proj finishing at its anchor.

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, 20 Mar

The journey to the center of the earth could not be this epic. Start as per Green Grass diverging to the left at the seventh bolt when Green Grass heads back to the right. Up Up Up, staying generally just to the left of Green Grass to finish under the high roof.

FFA: Lee Cossey, May 2012

Lee Cossey generously gave this route to a visiting Frenchman who had become rather enamoured with it. Departs Green Grass after its crux and heads straight up and through a series of roofs and beyond. Finish at the chains for Zigzagonal.

FFA: Quentin Chastagnier, Mar 2013

Started at grade 28, quickly went to 29 and may see another advance yet. Either climb with second bolt clipped, or use locking biners on the first (a backclip would see two people go to the valley floor!). Climb up and gently rightward to roof. Head around the lip and hit the accelerator. Traverse left above the lip, up several metres and then break right and up until your forearms resemble base ball bats and you feel like if you fall you will land in the valley way below. Use a minimum 70m rope or you may well land in the valley.

FFA: Lee Cossey, Feb 2012

Not sure of the start yet, but it joins Green Grass on the upper headwall.

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