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Description

Full of great routes in the mid to late 20's. With the odd exception, these routes are long and involved.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

At the base of the rap, head down and take a left through the jungle. After a couple of minutes traverse above a large boulder and cross the creek. Traverse the far side of the creek and around the right side of the large boulder slightly downhill.

Descent Notes

Use a 70m rope.

Ethic inherited from Elphinstone

There are many CLOSED PROJECTS in both sectors. As a matter of respect, stay off them unless you have permission from the person who bolted it or the project becomes listed as open.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
26 ** Kung Fu Muscle Sport 20m

A long batman start leads to primo thrutching up the blunt prow.

FFA: Scott Boladeras, 2012

2
32 *** Shogun Sport Project 25m

Line of bolts right of Kung Fu Muscle and left of The Last Ninja. A unique route for the mountains, bouldery and sustained hard pockets. A visionary bolting effort by Scotty B and inspired siege by Logan.

FA: Logan Barber, 2013

3
27 *** The Last Ninja Sport 25m

Deservedly popular route. Start right of Shogun , head up and left to the base of the right leaning arch. Punch your way up this and through the ever steepening wall to find some respite on the lesser overhanging headwall.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 2012

4
28 ** One Inch Punch Sport 25m, 10

Shared start with The Last Ninja. Head up to desperate boulder problem and right through intimidating roof flake.

FA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 2013

5
28 ** Fists Of Fury Sport 25m

Amazing line with a tough little beta crux.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 2012

6
26 *** Cobra Kai Connection Sport 35m

Mega pumper that connects the start of Fists Of Fury (to the fifth or sixth bolt) into Chao Wa Punch Kick. Take all your draws and you may need to borrow some to make up the 18 that are required.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 2012

7
28 * Chao Wa Punch Kick Sport 35m

Bouldery start to gain the saw tooth feature at 10m, and then straight up the never ending wall.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 2012

8
21 * Heisenburg Corner Trad 35m

The obvious wide crack/corner 8m to the right of Chao Wa Punch Kick. Take all the big cams you can rustle up. Finishes at double rings.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 2012

9
Romancing The Stone Sport Project

Corinne Gwyther closed project. Start at the base of the wall to the right of Heisenburg Corner. Traverse to arete, head up and come back onto the face to reach the roof. Around this and continue up the face.

10
Project 7 Sport Project

Julian Saunders closed project. Start as per project 6 but continue up arete to finish under large roof.

11
Project 8 Sport Project

Julian Saunders closed project. To the right of Project 7 is an obvious overhanging corner. Up this and around the arete to the right to get established for the face/arete above.

12
29 ** Treadstone Sport 30m

There are three routes that share a common start marked by a small 'dry stone' platform with an undercling horn above it. Boulder up the side pull feature to attain a good break. Traverse left and up through some difficult moves, then continue up for more of the same.

FFA: Julian Saunders, 2012

13

Julian Saunders closed project. A hellishly long jump to join Treadstone.

14
27 *** The knitting Cirlce Sport 30m

Full of funky sequences and memorable holds. Start as per Treadstone but continue up for one bolt more before moving left, over vague lip and into the shallow groove. Some awesome sections above may have you think you are all done. Wrong! Opinion is mixed as to whether it is 27 or 28.

FFA: Julian Saunders, 2012

15
26 *** Fallopian Jezebels Sport 30m

It is not uncommon to hear whimpering from high up on this super classic. Start as per Treadstone but head straight up the seam and onto the arete above. Continue up the face onto the white streaked, water washed stone, where the bolts cease and the fun factor goes redline.

FFA: Julian Saunders, 2012

16
Project 9 Sport Project

Emil Mandyczewsky closed project. Starts 5m right of Treadstone in the 'bowl'. Gently left and up to join Fallopian Jezabels.

17
Project 12 Sport Project

Emil Mandyczewsky closed project. Start in deep in the bowl of doom.

18
Dumbo Love Project Sport Project

Closed project. Start on the right side of the bowl and climb up and into the corner above.

19
Project 10 Sport Project

Chris Coghill closed project. Start 2m right of Dumbo Love project. Straight up!

20

The scene of yet another ethics debacle, where visions collide, egos are bruised and Negotiation is a primitive wallflower. Fact 1. Emil, after considering the amount of available gear placements across the whole route, and much discussion with other developers at Elphinstone, opted to bolt the line and subsequently did the first ascent. Fact 2. Rowan returned from overseas and took umbrage with Emil since he wanted to attempt it on gear. After having had numerous ascents Rowan chopped the routes bolts. One bolt was left in the route toward the top, presumedly due to lack of gear.

FA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 2012

21
26 Side Swipe Sport 40m

Start as per Person of interest sans bolts. After entering the corner head right past a bolt and up the arete to rejoin Person of interest at its last remaining bolt.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2013

22
Project 13 Sport Project

Simon Atkins closed project.