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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

The furthest righthand (looking out from the lookout) area of the 'Bardens Lookout' crags.

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
19 Pressure Drop Sport 17m

Mossy, sometimes!

Start: Up the gully for about 25m. 'Steep' wall on the left. Starts of the small ledge in the centre of the wall. Belay bolts.

FA: M.Colyvan,G.Bradbury,G.Moore, 1982

2
17 Joe the Lion Trad 40m

Groove, roof crack and wall.

Start: 13m right of the gully.

FA: R.Taylor, 2000

3
20 Lodger Trad 15m

Up to and over roof to ledge and belay.

Start: 5m right of JtL.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1982

4
20 Heroes Trad 20m

Groping!

Start: 11m right again. yellow rock.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1980

5
26 * Calamity Jane Sport 20m

4 metres left of Dragon's Tooth.

FA: Ivan Valenta

6
12 ** Dragons Tooth Trad 30m

Classic.

Start: The corner.

FA: J.Bishop,J.Aalders and Mr(?)Wilson, 1974

7
project Project 1 Unknown
9
17 * Technical Stuff Trad 40m

Rebolted?

Start: 12m right of DT. Right side of the arete.

FA: J.Smoothy,A.Penney, 1979

10
25 * Hermaphrodite Hamster Unknown 20m, 6

Old 80's project rebolted.

Start: Up wall to R of 'Technical Stuff'

FA: March 2009

11
22 * Samnivel Sport 35m

Great wall climb. Thin in places. Rebolted 2009

Start: 3.5m right of TS.

FA: J.Smoothy,S.Knight,R.Weigand, 1982

12
12 R Mistral Trad 30m

Up onto blocks then corner to top.

Start: Crack 3.5m right again.

FA: J.Bishop,J.Aalders, 1974

13
15 * Fohn Mixed 25m, 1

Direct start to Mistral. Start right of Mistral at crack leading to slab with single bolt below overhang. Climb thru overhang to join Mistral and step right at top to Panasonic Princes DRBB lower off

FA: W. Williams, A Halkyard, K Melville, 2009

14
21 * Panasonic Princess Unknown 22m
15
20 * Metabo Man Sport 25m

all carrots

FA: G.Short?, 2000

16
23 ** Mal's Mega Route Sport 30m

steep classic on good rock

Start: 4m right of M.

FA: M.Grey,J.Smoothy, 1982

17
25 ** Roger's Smegma Chute Sport 20m

A bit more sustained than MMR with an exciting overhanging dyno to finish. Beautiful rock. Add a grade if your reach is limited.

Start: Start up easy groove as for Mal's then 3m to the right.

FA: Roger, 2008

18
22 * Malignant Polymer Trad 30m

Start: 5m right of MMR.

FA: G.Weigand,G.Clark, 1983

19
17 Cosmetic Trad 25m

Start: 25m right of MMR. To bolt the up wall trending leftwards.

FA: D.Humphries,J.Smoothy,I.Anger, 1980

21
17 * Here and Now Sport 20m

Has a choice of two starts.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1999

22
20 * Krell Trad 30m

Rebolted?

Start: 5m right of 'Cosmetic'.

FA: J.Smoothy,D.Humphries,I.Anger, 1980

23

Awesome ! New bolts

24
19 * The H'owl Trad 30m

Popular climb up a fine line!

Start: Obvious line up chimney then through corner and roof right of FR.

FA: M.Dunstan, 1974

25
23 * Ferret's Route Unknown 35m
26
21 * Stretch Marks Trad 35m

"His ex-wife died of stretch marks"

Start: On the wall 2m right of TH.

FA: J.Smoothy,T.Bernutt, 1982

27
21 * Laming Wall Trad 25m

The original route and the 'best' on the wall.

Start: 4.5m right of SM.

FA: J.Smoothy,D.Humphries,I.Anger, 1980

28
20 Tais Free Trad 25m

Looks quite good too!

Start: 2m right again.

FA: R.Weigand,J.Smoothy, 1982

29

To ledge, over bulge and to top trending leftwards.

Start: 6m right again.

FA: A.Prehn,J.Muir, 1980

30
23 Cheat Notes Trad 22m

To ledge, around overhang, up left then up.

Start: 4m right again.

FA: R.Weigand,J.Smoothy, 1982

31
Project? Trad

Start: On wall right of DT.

FA: Unknown, 2000

32
20 . Sport 25m

Start: On wall right of DT.

FA: Unknown, 2000

33
23 * Ferrets Route Direct Sport 20m

Rebolted 2009

Start: Right of K. Left side of the arete. Original start as for TH, then traverse left, but now rebolted so go direct.

FA: I.Anger,J.Smoothy,D.Humphries, 1980

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