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Access issues inherited from Bardens Lookout

* Temporary Access Change * Following the 2013 bushfires, the Collit's Crevasse and Lawson's Gully areas are no longer accessible from the main stairway entrance to Bardens (i.e., you can't turn right at the bottom of the stairs). Please respect the re-vegetation effort. Access to these areas is possible via Wentworth's Gully in Mt. York.



The furthest righthand (looking out from the lookout) area of the 'Bardens Lookout' crags.

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
19 Pressure Drop Sport 17m

Mossy, sometimes!

Start: Up the gully for about 25m. 'Steep' wall on the left. Starts of the small ledge in the centre of the wall. Belay bolts.

FA: M.Colyvan, G.Bradbury & G.Moore, 1982

17 Joe the Lion Trad 40m

Groove, roof crack and wall.

Start: 13m right of the gully.

FA: R.Taylor, 2000

20 Lodger Trad 15m

Up to and over roof to ledge and belay.

Start: 5m right of JtL.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1982

20 Heroes Trad 20m


Start: 11m right again. yellow rock.

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1980

26 * Calamity Jane Sport 20m

4 metres left of Dragon's Tooth.

FA: Ivan Valenta

12 ** Dragons Tooth Trad 30m


Start: The corner.

FA: J.Bishop, J.Aalders & Mr(?)Wilson, 1974

project Project 1 Unknown
17 * Technical Stuff Trad 40m


Start: 12m right of DT. Right side of the arete.

FA: J.Smoothy & A.Penney, 1979

25 * Hermaphrodite Hamster Unknown 20m, 6

Old 80's project rebolted.

Start: Up wall to R of 'Technical Stuff'

FA: March 2009

22 * Samnivel Sport 35m

Great wall climb. Thin in places. Rebolted 2009

Start: 3.5m right of TS.

FA: J.Smoothy, S.Knight & R.Weigand, 1982

12 R Mistral Trad 30m

Up onto blocks then corner to top.

Start: Crack 3.5m right again.

FA: J.Bishop & J.Aalders, 1974

15 * Fohn Mixed 25m, 1

Direct start to Mistral. Start right of Mistral at crack leading to slab with single bolt below overhang. Climb thru overhang to join Mistral and step right at top to Panasonic Princes DRBB lower off

FA: W. Williams, A Halkyard & K Melville, 2009

21 * Panasonic Princess Unknown 22m
20 * Metabo Man Sport 25m

all carrots

FA: G.Short?, 2000

23 ** Mal's Mega Route Sport 30m

steep classic on good rock

Start: 4m right of M.

FA: M.Grey & J.Smoothy, 1982

25 ** Roger's Smegma Chute Sport 20m

A bit more sustained than MMR with an exciting overhanging dyno to finish. Beautiful rock. Add a grade if your reach is limited.

Start: Start up easy groove as for Mal's then 3m to the right.

FA: Roger, 2008

22 * Malignant Polymer Trad 30m

Start: 5m right of MMR.

FA: G.Weigand & G.Clark, 1983

17 Cosmetic Trad 25m

Start: 25m right of MMR. To bolt the up wall trending leftwards.

FA: D.Humphries, J.Smoothy & I.Anger, 1980

17 * Here and Now Sport 20m

Has a choice of two starts.

FA: G.Short & P.Mort, 1999

20 * Krell Trad 30m


Start: 5m right of 'Cosmetic'.

FA: J.Smoothy, D.Humphries & I.Anger, 1980


Awesome ! New bolts, but don't worry about the carrot.

19 * The H'owl Trad 30m

Popular climb up a fine line!

Start: Obvious line up chimney then through corner and roof right of FR.

FA: M.Dunstan, 1974

23 * Ferret's Route Unknown 35m
21 * Stretch Marks Trad 35m

"His ex-wife died of stretch marks"

Start: On the wall 2m right of TH.

FA: J.Smoothy & T.Bernutt, 1982

21 * Laming Wall Trad 25m

The original route and the 'best' on the wall.

Start: 4.5m right of SM.

FA: J.Smoothy, D.Humphries & I.Anger, 1980

20 Tais Free Trad 25m

Looks quite good too!

Start: 2m right again.

FA: R.Weigand & J.Smoothy, 1982


To ledge, over bulge and to top trending leftwards.

Start: 6m right again.

FA: A.Prehn & J.Muir, 1980

23 Cheat Notes Trad 22m

To ledge, around overhang, up left then up.

Start: 4m right again.

FA: R.Weigand & J.Smoothy, 1982

Project? Trad

Start: On wall right of DT.

FA: Unknown, 2000

20 . Sport 25m

Start: On wall right of DT.

FA: Unknown, 2000

23 * Ferrets Route Direct Sport 20m

Rebolted 2009

Start: Right of K. Left side of the arete. Original start as for TH, then traverse left, but now rebolted so go direct.

FA: I.Anger, J.Smoothy & D.Humphries, 1980


Check out what is happening in Lawsons Gully.