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Table of contents

1. Lawsons Gully 33 routes in Crag

Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.219539, -33.556212

Access Issues:© inherited from Bardens Lookout

* Temporary Access Change * Following the 2013 bushfires, the Collit's Crevasse and Lawson's Gully areas are no longer accessible from the main stairway entrance to Bardens (i.e., you can't turn right at the bottom of the stairs). Please respect the re-vegetation effort. Access to these areas is possible via Wentworth's Gully in Mt. York.

Approach:© (mjw)

The furthest righthand (looking out from the lookout) area of the 'Bardens Lookout' crags.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pressure Drop

Mossy, sometimes!

Start: Up the gully for about 25m. 'Steep' wall on the left. Starts of the small ledge in the centre of the wall. Belay bolts.

FA: M.Colyvan,G.Bradbury,G.Moore, 1982

19 Sport 17m
2 Joe the Lion

Groove, roof crack and wall.

Start: 13m right of the gully.

FA: R.Taylor, 2000

17 Trad 40m
3 Lodger

Up to and over roof to ledge and belay.

Start: 5m right of JtL.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1982

20 Trad 15m
4 Heroes


Start: 11m right again. yellow rock.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1980

20 Trad 20m
5 * Calamity Jane

4 metres left of Dragon's Tooth.

FA: Ivan Valenta

26 Sport 20m
6 ** Dragons Tooth


Start: The corner.

FA: J.Bishop,J.Aalders and Mr(?)Wilson, 1974

12 Trad 30m
7 Project 1 project Unknown
8 Mombassa - left arete of TS 20 Unknown 25m
9 * Technical Stuff


Start: 12m right of DT. Right side of the arete.

FA: J.Smoothy,A.Penney, 1979

17 Trad 40m
10 * Hermaphrodite Hamster

Old 80's project rebolted.

Start: Up wall to R of 'Technical Stuff'

FA: March 2009

25 Unknown 20m, 6
11 * Samnivel

Great wall climb. Thin in places. Rebolted 2009

Start: 3.5m right of TS.

FA: J.Smoothy,S.Knight,R.Weigand, 1982

22 Sport 35m
12 Mistral

Up onto blocks then corner to top.

Start: Crack 3.5m right again.

FA: J.Bishop,J.Aalders, 1974

12 R Trad 30m
13 * Fohn

Direct start to Mistral. Start right of Mistral at crack leading to slab with single bolt below overhang. Climb thru overhang to join Mistral and step right at top to Panasonic Princes DRBB lower off

FA: W. Williams, A Halkyard, K Melville, 2009

15 Mixed 25m, 1
14 * Panasonic Princess 21 Unknown 22m
15 * Metabo Man

all carrots

FA: G.Short?, 2000

20 Sport 25m
16 ** Mal's Mega Route

steep classic on good rock

Start: 4m right of M.

FA: M.Grey,J.Smoothy, 1982

23 Sport 30m
17 ** Roger's Smegma Chute

A bit more sustained than MMR with an exciting overhanging dyno to finish. Beautiful rock. Add a grade if your reach is limited.

Start: Start up easy groove as for Mal's then 3m to the right.

FA: Roger, 2008

25 Sport 20m
18 * Malignant Polymer

Start: 5m right of MMR.

FA: G.Weigand,G.Clark, 1983

22 Trad 30m
19 Cosmetic

Start: 25m right of MMR. To bolt the up wall trending leftwards.

FA: D.Humphries,J.Smoothy,I.Anger, 1980

17 Trad 25m
20 Here and Now (direct start) 19 Unknown
21 * Here and Now

Has a choice of two starts.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1999

17 Sport 20m
22 * Krell


Start: 5m right of 'Cosmetic'.

FA: J.Smoothy,D.Humphries,I.Anger, 1980

20 Trad 30m
23 * Ferret's Route Direct Start

Awesome ! New bolts, but don't worry about the carrot.

23 Sport 20m
24 * The H'owl

Popular climb up a fine line!

Start: Obvious line up chimney then through corner and roof right of FR.

FA: M.Dunstan, 1974

19 Trad 30m
25 * Ferret's Route 23 Unknown 35m
26 * Stretch Marks

"His ex-wife died of stretch marks"

Start: On the wall 2m right of TH.

FA: J.Smoothy,T.Bernutt, 1982

21 Trad 35m
27 * Laming Wall

The original route and the 'best' on the wall.

Start: 4.5m right of SM.

FA: J.Smoothy,D.Humphries,I.Anger, 1980

21 Trad 25m
28 Tais Free

Looks quite good too!

Start: 2m right again.

FA: R.Weigand,J.Smoothy, 1982

20 Trad 25m
29 Are Turkeys Electric?

To ledge, over bulge and to top trending leftwards.

Start: 6m right again.

FA: A.Prehn,J.Muir, 1980

21 Trad 25m
30 Cheat Notes

To ledge, around overhang, up left then up.

Start: 4m right again.

FA: R.Weigand,J.Smoothy, 1982

23 Trad 22m
31 Project?

Start: On wall right of DT.

FA: Unknown, 2000

32 .

Start: On wall right of DT.

FA: Unknown, 2000

20 Sport 25m
33 * Ferrets Route Direct

Rebolted 2009

Start: Right of K. Left side of the arete. Original start as for TH, then traverse left, but now rebolted so go direct.

FA: I.Anger,J.Smoothy,D.Humphries, 1980

23 Sport 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
12 ** Dragons Tooth Trad 30m
12 R Mistral Trad 30m
15 * Fohn Mixed 25m, 1
17 Cosmetic Trad 25m
* Here and Now Sport 20m
Joe the Lion Trad 40m
* Technical Stuff Trad 40m
19 Here and Now (direct start) Unknown
Pressure Drop Sport 17m
* The H'owl Trad 30m
20 . Sport 25m
Heroes Trad 20m
* Krell Trad 30m
Lodger Trad 15m
* Metabo Man Sport 25m
Mombassa - left arete of TS Unknown 25m
Tais Free Trad 25m
21 Are Turkeys Electric? Trad 25m
* Laming Wall Trad 25m
* Panasonic Princess Unknown 22m
* Stretch Marks Trad 35m
22 * Malignant Polymer Trad 30m
* Samnivel Sport 35m
23 Cheat Notes Trad 22m
* Ferret's Route Unknown 35m
* Ferret's Route Direct Start Sport 20m
* Ferrets Route Direct Sport 20m
** Mal's Mega Route Sport 30m
25 * Hermaphrodite Hamster Unknown 20m, 6
** Roger's Smegma Chute Sport 20m
26 * Calamity Jane Sport 20m
? Project? Trad
project Project 1 Unknown