East Face All sport climbing

1 route in crag

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Description

From Sublime Point car-park walk along fence of house 142 Sublime Point Road (right side of carpark) until it ends after 50m (at wooden wall). Walk along wall for 15m then head straight downhill on faint track. This track enters the bush at a couple of gnarled banksai trees. Follow track steeply downhill for 80m on faint ridge past a few large tree stumps until it ends at top of small cliffline. Turn right and head down mossy ferny steep gully then go left under small cliffline. 20m along under this cliff turn right and go straight downhill aiming for the edge of the cliff just below. Look for ringbolts just over the edge on a slab. It's only 5 minutes from the car to the top of the cliff!

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
22 Subliminal Sport 80m, 25

Rap 15m from double rings to ledge and another set of ring anchors. Fix one 70m rope to these and rap off insanely exposed edge. Kick your way down clipping some of the bolts to keep connected to the wall. 65m down is a very small belay ledge above a huge roof over on the right. Belay here!

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