- Height: 120m
- Bolts: 1
- Pitches: 6
From Bryden Allen's guidebook "Rock climbs of NSW": http://www.brydenallen.com/download%20files/rock_climbs_of_nsw.2.pdf
A good climb which has its moments.
Down Perrys Lookdown to Blue Gum, up Govetts Creek for 3/4 mile then up the big ridge. Turn off to the right before the top and the crack will become obvious. Up ramps of scrub until the base of the cliff is reached.
80ft Up the easy wall.
80ft Traverse into the trees.
70ft Continue into the crack and up a bit.
70ft The crux. Delicately up the wall on the right. Good bracket type bolt runner then back into the crack. Belay.
40ft Up (I think)
60ft Out onto the face (I think)
The scrub free walk over Lockleys Pylon and the dance down the rack to Blue Gum are the main attractions of the climb.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.
First Ascent: Bryden Allen & P.Draffin, 1963
Located in Lockleys Pylon approx:
Route Grade Citations
|13||Community registered grade|
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