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Description:© (mjw)

Short, steep and pumpy. The mountains' version of a 'gym'.

Useful Info: This crag is on Private Property. At this stage the owners are happy for us to climb here provided that:

  • climbers remain responsible for our own safety,

  • dogs are NOT brought to the crag, and

  • residents rights are respected when it comes to parking (don't drive into or park across the driveway!!!).

The land above the crag has recently been surveyed!

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach:© (mjw)

The crag is situated on Shipley Rd below Berridale Orchards. Drive past the Shipley fire hut and up the hill. Park just before the dirt road on the left. This is private property - DONT park in the driveway or take cars down the fire trail! There is not much room for cars, 2 before the Orchard's driveway and 3 after it, maybe!

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

Map Name Style Climbs Ascents Height Grade Band Topos
28Lower-Again Brae Cliff - 00

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 * Gropertron

Start: The first route you come to at the crag, was 27 when it was first freed.

FA: M.Law, 2001

25
Sport 15m
2 * Room With a View

The best warm up here.

FA: C.Hale, 1996

22
Sport 15m
3 Side Effect

FA: F.Yule, 1995

22
Sport 15m
4 ** Surprise Package

soft

FA: J.Clark, 1996

24
Sport 17m
5 ** The Never Believers

FA: C.Hale, 1996

23
Sport 15m
6 ** Alien Signature

FA: J.Kurko, 1996

23
Sport 19m
7 ** Creep Show

FA: F.Yule, 1995

23
Sport 18m
8 * Hilti's not Guilty

FA: J.Clark, 1996

25
Sport 16m
9 ** Wedding Bell Blues

FA: J.Clark, 1996

23
Sport 12m
10 * Criters

FA: J.Kurko, 1996

25
Sport 20m
11 ** Kathy K

FA: J.Kurko, 1996

25
Sport 16m
12 ** Cabbage Power

Start: 'Grovel' through the dirt or Batman!

FA: M.Pircher, 1997

24
Sport 15m
13 *** Demented Cabbage

Links the start of Cabbage Power into the crux section of Vertical Dementia. Keep going right at 3rd bolt of CP.

FA: David O'Donnell, 2006

24
Sport 20m
14 *** Vertical Dementia

FA: J.Kurko, 1996

24
Sport 18m
15 The Diving Board

FA: M. File,

24
Sport 15m
16 * Shaggy D.A.

FA: J.Clark, 1996

24
Sport 15m
17 *** Dr Stein

FA: F.Yule, 1995

25
Sport 18m
18 ** EIEIO

FA: M.Law, 1999

28
Sport 18m
19 * Strawberry Blonde

FA: M.Baker, 1995

24
Sport 18m
20 * Rain Maker

Start: Finish at the giant U.

FA: J.Clark, 1996

24
Sport 18m
21 *** Flake Maker

Go up Rain Maker and link into Shark pool at the 4th bolt. Finish up Shark Pool.

FA: David O'Donnell, 2006

25
Unknown 15m
22 ** Shark Pool

FA: S.Atkins, 1996

26
Sport 12m
23 * Elastic Analysis

FA: J.Clark, 1996

23
Sport 12m
24 * Post Swing Jitters

FA: J.Kurko, 1996

24
Sport 18m
25 Dead Man Walking

Funky 3D climbing

FA: C.Hale, 1996

22
Sport 18m
26 ** Hip to the Bumper Crop

Thin, steep and sharp.

Start: The next 2 climbs are about 80m further right from the Main area. They are up in a cavern.

FA: A.Richardson, 2002

29
Sport 15m
27 ** Big Hit with the Kids

FA: A.Richardson, 2002

29
Sport 15m
28 ** The Grit Down Under

Great climbing up a right-hand fused flake, after a cruxy face.

Half-dozen Cams and wires - classic old school Blue Mountains 23 . . . Love it . . .

Start: Find the carrot on the shelf 2/3rds of the way along main wall, and rap in to ledge with big tree. Start in faint corner on left.

FA: Macciza, 2008

23
Trad 35m
29 Holey Grit - Project

FA: Zac /Mac, 2000

R
Trad

Open trips

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