Logan Brae Mostly Sport climbing29 routes in crag
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Short, steep and pumpy. The mountains' version of a 'gym'.
Useful Info: This crag is on Private Property. At this stage the owners are happy for us to climb here provided that:
climbers remain responsible for our own safety,
dogs are NOT brought to the crag, and
residents rights are respected when it comes to parking.
There is absolutely no access to the crag via the gated fire trail which goes through 'Berridale', under any circumstances. The approach down the driveway and fire trail (described on p96 of the 2010 ed guidebook, and p56 of the 2011 Select guidebook) at Berridale Orchids must NOT be used under any circumstances. It's about 200m earlier:- Instead, drive past the Shipley Fire Hut and up the hill, then park on the left (this is 40m before ‘Cliffview’, and a few hundred metres before the parking at Berridale Orchids as described in the guidebooks). The NEW track to the crag is located just to the right of the parking area. Approx 10 minutes approach.
Please refrain from creating any toilet areas along the track - keep it in until you get to the crag (better to leave it at Blackheath or Shipley really). If you intend walking out in the dark - pack a head torch.
Please behave responsibly, as a lot of work has been put in to maintain our access to this crag. We still need to do more work stabilising the ledge below the climbs so please leave any materials stocked at the crag as they are, dont remove any shale from below the climbs no matter how 'dangerous' you think it is and please dont throw any loose rock/shale over the cliff as it will all be used in the stabilisation work.
Respect Native Habitat - Tread Softly and Leave No Trace.© (mjw)
The crag is situated on Shipley Rd below Berridale Orchards. Drive past the Shipley fire hut and continue up the hill, and park on left at the third power pole (second on the left) with SES sticker - Pole number 826113.
The track to the crag is located the right side of the entry area - see cairns (no lazy 'shortcuts, please). The track straight ahead takes you to a very nice little lookout. Please do not park anywhere near 'Berridale' or in front of 'Cliffview'
Less than 10 minutes easy gradient walking track through a beautiful little gully full of native animals and plants (take care with the Sword Grass!).
There is absolutely no access to the crag via the gated fire trail which goes through 'Berridale', under any circumstances.© (mjw)
Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
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