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Description

Short, steep and pumpy. The mountains' version of a 'gym'.

Useful Info: This crag is on Private Property. At this stage the owners are happy for us to climb here provided that:

  • climbers remain responsible for our own safety,

  • dogs are NOT brought to the crag, and

  • residents rights are respected when it comes to parking.

© (mjw)

Access issues

There is absolutely no access to the crag via the gated fire trail which goes through 'Berridale', under any circumstances.

Please refrain from creating any toilet areas along the track - keep it in until you get to the crag (better to leave it at Blackheath really). If you intend walking out in the dark - pack a head torch.

Please behave responsibly, as a lot of work has been put in to maintain our access to this crag. We still need to do more work stabilising the ledge below the climbs so please leave any materials stocked at the crag as they are, dont remove any shale from below the climbs no matter how 'dangerous' you think it is and please dont throw any loose rock/shale over the cliff as it will all be used in the stabilisation work.

Respect Native Habitat - Tread Softly and Leave No Trace.

© (mjw)

Approach

The crag is situated on Shipley Rd below Berridale Orchards. Drive past the Shipley fire hut and up the hill, at the second power pole on the left park - this is 40m before 'Cliffview'. The track to the crag is located just to the right of the parking area (no lazy 'shortcuts, please). The track straight ahead takes you to a very nice little lookout. Please do not park anywhere near 'Berridale' or in front of 'Cliffview'

Less than 10 minutes easy gradient walking track through a beautiful little gully full of native animals and plants (take care with the Sword Grass!).

There is absolutely no access to the crag via the gated fire trail which goes through 'Berridale', under any circumstances.

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

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