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Access issues inherited from Logan Brae

There is absolutely no access to the crag via the gated fire trail which goes through 'Berridale', under any circumstances. The approach down the driveway and fire trail (described on p96 of the 2010 ed guidebook, and p56 of the 2011 Select guidebook) at Berridale Orchids must NOT be used under any circumstances. It's about 200m earlier:- Instead, drive past the Shipley Fire Hut and up the hill, then at the second power pole park on the left (this is 40m before ‘Cliffview’, and a few hundred metres before the parking at Berridale Orchids as described in the guidebooks). The NEW track to the crag is located just to the right of the parking area. Approx 10 minutes approach.

Please refrain from creating any toilet areas along the track - keep it in until you get to the crag (better to leave it at Blackheath really). If you intend walking out in the dark - pack a head torch.

Please behave responsibly, as a lot of work has been put in to maintain our access to this crag. We still need to do more work stabilising the ledge below the climbs so please leave any materials stocked at the crag as they are, dont remove any shale from below the climbs no matter how 'dangerous' you think it is and please dont throw any loose rock/shale over the cliff as it will all be used in the stabilisation work.

Respect Native Habitat - Tread Softly and Leave No Trace.

©

Approach

The approach down the driveway and fire trail (described on p96 of the 2010 ed guidebook, and p56 of the 2011 Select guidebook) at Berridale Orchids must NOT be used under any circumstances. Instead, drive past the Shipley Fire Hut and up the hill, then at the second power pole park on the left (this is 40m before ‘Cliffview’, and a few hundred metres before the parking at Berridale Orchids as described in the guidebooks). The NEW track to the crag is located just to the right of the parking area. Approx 10 minutes approach.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start: The first route you come to at the crag, traversing off at crux (top) is not on.

FA: Mikl Law, 2001

The best warm up here.

FA: C.Hale, 1996

Two boulders split by jugs.

FA: F.Yule, 1995

soft

FA: J.Clark, 1996

FA: C.Hale, 1996

FA: J.Kurko, 1996

FA: F.Yule, 1995

FA: J.Clark, 1996

The busted 3rd bolt has been replaced. - P.T

FA: J.Clark, 1996

FA: J.Kurko, 1996

FA: J.Kurko, 1996

Start: 'Grovel' through the dirt or Batman!

FA: M.Pircher, 1997

Links the start of Cabbage Power into the crux section of Vertical Dementia. Keep going right at 3rd bolt of CP.

FA: David O'Donnell, 2006

The busted 3rd bolt has been replaced. - P.T

FA: J.Kurko, 1996

Lower pocket crux then jugs to an odd place anchor.

FA: M. File

Short steep little arete. Low crux then lots of jugs and a runout to the anchor.

FA: J.Clark, 1996

The crag classic!!

Crux down low but plenty of funky holds and tricky moves to keep you pumping all the way to the top.

FA: F.Yule, 1995

FA: M.Law, 1999

FA: M.Baker, 1995

Start: Finish at the giant U.

FA: J.Clark, 1996

Go up Rain Maker and link into Shark pool at the 4th bolt. Finish up Shark Pool.

FA: David O'Donnell, 2006

FA: S.Atkins, 1996

FA: J.Clark, 1996

FA: J.Kurko, 1996

Funky 3D climbing

FA: C.Hale, 1996

The next 2 climbs are about 80m right of the main area. They are up in a cavern, accessed via a scramble with a fixed rope.

Thin, steep and sharp.

FA: A.Richardson, 2002

Shared start with HTTBC then after the 5th bolt bam out right and up.

FA: A.Richardson, 2002

Activity

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