Details needed

This crag does not have a description!

Can you share a summary introduction to this crag?

If you can help provide a better quality resource for the climbing community then please click 'Edit this crag' button near the top of the page.

Access issues inherited from Logan Brae

There is absolutely no access to the crag via the gated fire trail which goes through 'Berridale', under any circumstances. The approach down the driveway and fire trail (described on p96 of the 2010 ed guidebook, and p56 of the 2011 Select guidebook) at Berridale Orchids must NOT be used under any circumstances. It's about 200m earlier:- Instead, drive past the Shipley Fire Hut and up the hill, then at the second power pole park on the left (this is 40m before ‘Cliffview’, and a few hundred metres before the parking at Berridale Orchids as described in the guidebooks). The NEW track to the crag is located just to the right of the parking area. Approx 10 minutes approach.

Please refrain from creating any toilet areas along the track - keep it in until you get to the crag (better to leave it at Blackheath really). If you intend walking out in the dark - pack a head torch.

Please behave responsibly, as a lot of work has been put in to maintain our access to this crag. We still need to do more work stabilising the ledge below the climbs so please leave any materials stocked at the crag as they are, dont remove any shale from below the climbs no matter how 'dangerous' you think it is and please dont throw any loose rock/shale over the cliff as it will all be used in the stabilisation work.

Respect Native Habitat - Tread Softly and Leave No Trace.

©

Approach

The approach down the driveway and fire trail (described on p96 of the 2010 ed guidebook, and p56 of the 2011 Select guidebook) at Berridale Orchids must NOT be used under any circumstances. Instead, drive past the Shipley Fire Hut and up the hill, then at the second power pole park on the left (this is 40m before ‘Cliffview’, and a few hundred metres before the parking at Berridale Orchids as described in the guidebooks). The NEW track to the crag is located just to the right of the parking area. Approx 10 minutes approach.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
25 * Gropertron Sport 15m

Start: The first route you come to at the crag, traversing off at crux (top) is not on.

FA: Mikl Law, 2001

2
22 * Room With a View Sport 15m

The best warm up here.

FA: C.Hale, 1996

3
22 Side Effect Sport 15m

Two boulders split by jugs.

FA: F.Yule, 1995

4
24 ** Surprise Package Sport 17m

soft

FA: J.Clark, 1996

5
23 ** The Never Believers Sport 15m

FA: C.Hale, 1996

6
23 ** Alien Signature Sport 19m

FA: J.Kurko, 1996

7
23 ** Creep Show Sport 18m

FA: F.Yule, 1995

8
25 * Hilti's not Guilty Sport 16m

FA: J.Clark, 1996

9
23 ** Wedding Bell Blues Sport 12m

WARNING 3rd bolt is loose! [Oct 2014: yes its still loose]

FA: J.Clark, 1996

10
25 * Criters Sport 20m

FA: J.Kurko, 1996

11
25 ** Kathy K Sport 16m

FA: J.Kurko, 1996

12
24 ** Cabbage Power Sport 15m

Start: 'Grovel' through the dirt or Batman!

FA: M.Pircher, 1997

13
24 *** Demented Cabbage Sport 20m

Links the start of Cabbage Power into the crux section of Vertical Dementia. Keep going right at 3rd bolt of CP.

FA: David O'Donnell, 2006

14
24 *** Vertical Dementia Sport 18m

FA: J.Kurko, 1996

15
24 * The Diving Board Sport 15m

Lower pocket crux then jugs to an odd place anchor.

FA: M. File

16
23 * Shaggy D.A. Sport 15m

Short steep little arete. Low crux then lots of jugs and a runout to the anchor.

FA: J.Clark, 1996

17
25 *** Dr Stein Sport 18m

FA: F.Yule, 1995

18
28 ** EIEIO Sport 18m

FA: M.Law, 1999

19
24 ** Strawberry Blonde Sport 18m

FA: M.Baker, 1995

20
24 ** Rain Maker Sport 18m

Start: Finish at the giant U.

FA: J.Clark, 1996

21
25 *** Flake Maker Sport 15m

Go up Rain Maker and link into Shark pool at the 4th bolt. Finish up Shark Pool.

FA: David O'Donnell, 2006

22
26 ** Shark Pool Sport 12m

FA: S.Atkins, 1996

23
23 * Elastic Analysis Sport 12m

FA: J.Clark, 1996

24
24 * Post Swing Jitters Sport 18m

FA: J.Kurko, 1996

25
22 Dead Man Walking Sport 18m

Funky 3D climbing

FA: C.Hale, 1996

26

Thin, steep and sharp.

Start: The next 2 climbs are about 80m further right from the Main area. They are up in a cavern.

FA: A.Richardson, 2002

27

FA: A.Richardson, 2002

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.