The Surgery All bouldering28 routes in cliff
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A great long bouldering cave tucked down behind some houses in blaxland.
Avoid like herpes after rain or on humid days.
All the problems have been renamed in a "Surgery" theme as the original names have been lost to antiquity. Names and grades are welcome for the unnamed problems, I just haven't done them.
Access issues inherited from Lower Blue Mountains
At Blaxland, turn off the Great Western Highway onto Coughlan Rd. Follow Coughlan Rd past the High School and over the railway bridge, and take the first right onto Honeyeater Cres. Where the road turns left, keep going straight ahead down what looks like a driveway. Follow to the bottom of the hill and around to the left. Park at the end of the straight just before the road starts heading back up the hill.
From the carpark, find and follow the faint trail heading through the bush and down the hill. When it intersects another trail, turn left and continue until you see another faint trail (marked by a cairn) heading down towards the creek.
Follow this towards the creek (do NOT cross the creek), and then follow the base of the cliffline around to the left, continuing until the cliff opens up to reveal The Surgery.
Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
This spot was developed by Ed Thornhill back in the mid/late nineties. With the help of a few other friends. From memory this area was said to of had a double digit traverse under the cave fa'd by Garth Miller. Dave Browning also did a dyno problem on the suspended rock that's just before the entrance thought to be v8 or 9. a few other strong friends of Ed's did stuff here Saxon johns and Ben Pearce I think
Start in the rad underslot, big moves to a high finish
Double side-pull start then up via crimps and slopes to the rail jug. A great problem and tricky until up figure out the beta.
Start at double undercling then up via nice crimps to jug, direct start V1
Start on jug right of the flake then undercling/side pull the the flake to finish on orange horn.