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Long/Lat: 150.603859, -33.753065
A great long bouldering cave tucked down behind some houses in blaxland.
Avoid like herpes after rain or on humid days.
All the problems have been renamed in a "Surgery" theme as the original names have been lost to antiquity. Names and grades are welcome for the unnamed problems, I just haven't done them.
- Access Issues: inherited from Lower Blue Mountains
At Blaxland, turn off the Great Western Highway onto Coughlan Rd. Follow Coughlan Rd past the High School and over the railway bridge, and take the first right onto Honeyeater Cres. Where the road turns left, keep going straight ahead down what looks like a driveway. Follow to the bottom of the hill and around to the left. Park at the end of the straight just before the road starts heading back up the hill.
- Descent Notes:
From the carpark, find and follow the faint trail heading through the bush and down the hill. When it intersects another trail, turn left and continue until you see another faint trail (marked by a cairn) heading down towards the creek.
Follow this towards the creek (do NOT cross the creek), and then follow the base of the cliffline around to the left, continuing until the cliff opens up to reveal The Surgery.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
This spot was developed by Ed Thornhill back in the mid/late nineties. With the help of a few other friends. From memory this area was said to of had a double digit traverse under the cave fa'd by Garth Miller. Dave Browning also did a dyno problem on the suspended rock that's just before the entrance thought to be v8 or 9. a few other strong friends of Ed's did stuff here Saxon johns and Ben Pearce I think
Start from the big jug. Out and up. Committing.
Long undercling traverse.
FA: Ben "JengA" Lane, 2014
Start matched on the undercling. Big moves and Big fun
Start at the back of the cave.
Chipped and not that nice but will probably be the hardest problem here.
Same Start as Go Go Gadget but follows the left edge of the cave to finish on the black jugs.
Go Go Gadget
Start in the rad underslot, big moves to a high finish
Double side-pull start then up via crimps and slopes to the rail jug. A great problem and tricky until up figure out the beta.
Start at double undercling then up via nice crimps to jug, direct start V1
Start on jug right of the flake then undercling/side pull the the flake to finish on orange horn.
Start match on the undercling up via slopes and crimps to the camps ledge then big moves to high jug pocket.
Can you campus.
Simple campus from left to right
Start on the X jug rail above the ferns, traverse the roof until the campus ledge then finsh up P13
Hopes In Slopes
Sweet high sloper traverse, good but spaced holds the whole way. Start on a L finger jug and right crimp, up and work your way out left along the roof rib. Can you campus is off for your feet. Finish matched on the high pocket. Easier to campus most of the moves.
FFA: @benjenga, 13th Dec
Awesome new 20 move problem with a dynamic crux at the start and solid rock nearly the whole way. Starts on the big pocket of Say Ahhhhhhh, a couple of easy start moves set you up for a big move out left from a bad off angle right before joining Hopes In Slopes..
Set by God
FFA: @benjenga, 13th Dec
A fun campus problem, start with a small pocket and crimp, move right to finger jug, left hand to small crimp above then swing right to a good incut high edge, match.
Start on the big jug up to another jug pocket with glue on it then big moves up and right via crimps. Keep trucking right past another jug pocket to finish as teflon.
Crag classic. Start in the back of the cave, big moves on big holds. Finish on the high big sloper.
Straight up the face of the highball boulder. Use of either arête is "out".
HIGH.. This problem is 6m+ Has top rope anchors.
Scary ground up high ball, left hand on the arete. Has top rope anchors.
FFA: Ben Jenga, 2012
Got better holds then the right hand side. Has top rope anchors.
The Hyperhidrosis Problem
Straight up the middle of the face to top-out mantle. USE OF EITHER ARETE IS "OUT"..
Thin and balancy with all the hardest moves in the top half.
FA: Paul Thomson, 2014
Harder of the two sides. Has top rope anchors.
Anaphalaxis and the Angry Ant Attack
The ants are gone...
Once renowned as a "speed ascent problem" (as the crucial hold contained a nest of angry ants that swarmed once the hold was used), it's now a conventional and safe boulder problem.
Stand start, up via the one and only hold to top-out.
FA: Paul Thomson, 2012
Black Trash Traverse
Long block traverse from right to left. Start in small pockets on the top edge and traverse to the far left edge of the block
FFA: Ben JengA, 2012
Dave's double dyno
Dave did the fa in about 1996. Start with both hands on the rail then big move up to the sloping lip. Speculated at the time to be v9 but who knows??
FA: Dave Browning
|V0||Can you campus.|
|V1||Anaphalaxis and the Angry Ant Attack||3m|
|Black Trash Traverse|
|V2||Go Go Gadget||4m|
|The Hyperhidrosis Problem||6m|
|Hopes In Slopes|
|V9||Dave's double dyno||4m|