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Table of contents

1. The Surgery 29 routes in Cliff

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.603859, -33.753065


A great long bouldering cave tucked down behind some houses in blaxland.

Avoid like herpes after rain or on humid days.

All the problems have been renamed in a "Surgery" theme as the original names have been lost to antiquity. Names and grades are welcome for the unnamed problems, I just haven't done them.

Access Issues: inherited from Lower Blue Mountains

Be sensible.


At Blaxland, turn off the Great Western Highway onto Coughlan Rd. Follow Coughlan Rd past the High School and over the railway bridge, and take the first right onto Honeyeater Cres. Where the road turns left, keep going straight ahead down what looks like a driveway. Follow to the bottom of the hill and around to the left. Park at the end of the straight just before the road starts heading back up the hill.

Descent Notes:

From the carpark, find and follow the faint trail heading through the bush and down the hill. When it intersects another trail, turn left and continue until you see another faint trail (marked by a cairn) heading down towards the creek.

Follow this towards the creek (do NOT cross the creek), and then follow the base of the cliffline around to the left, continuing until the cliff opens up to reveal The Surgery.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


This spot was developed by Ed Thornhill back in the mid/late nineties. With the help of a few other friends. From memory this area was said to of had a double digit traverse under the cave fa'd by Garth Miller. Dave Browning also did a dyno problem on the suspended rock that's just before the entrance thought to be v8 or 9. a few other strong friends of Ed's did stuff here Saxon johns and Ben Pearce I think

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jack-knife

Start from the big jug. Out and up. Committing.

V4 Boulder 3m
2 Gingivectomy

Long undercling traverse.

FA: Ben "JengA" Lane, 2014

V6 Boulder 7m
3 * Nephrectomy

Start matched on the undercling. Big moves and Big fun

V3 Boulder 3m
4 ** Photocoagulator

Start at the back of the cave.

V4 Boulder 4m
5 Prosthesis

Chipped and not that nice but will probably be the hardest problem here.

6 Oxycel

Same Start as Go Go Gadget but follows the left edge of the cave to finish on the black jugs.

V2 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 ** Go Go Gadget

Start in the rad underslot, big moves to a high finish

V2 Boulder 4m
8 ** The Nurse

Double side-pull start then up via crimps and slopes to the rail jug. A great problem and tricky until up figure out the beta.

V3 Boulder 3m
9 ** Doctor

Same start as Necrosis then hard move into The Nurse to finish at the jug rail.

V5 Boulder 5m
10 Necrosis

Start at double undercling then up via nice crimps to jug, direct start V1

V2 Boulder 4m
11 Botox

Start on jug right of the flake then undercling/side pull the the flake to finish on orange horn.

V1 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 Rocky-Davis

Start match on the undercling up via slopes and crimps to the camps ledge then big moves to high jug pocket.

V2 Boulder 4m
13 Can you campus.

Simple campus from left to right

V0 Boulder
14 Roof Pocket

Start on the X jug rail above the ferns, traverse the roof until the campus ledge then finsh up P13

V3 Boulder 5m
15 *** Hopes In Slopes

Sweet high sloper traverse, good but spaced holds the whole way. Start on a L finger jug and right crimp, up and work your way out left along the roof rib. Can you campus is off for your feet. Finish matched on the high pocket. Easier to campus most of the moves.

FFA: @benjenga, 13th Dec

V5 Boulder
16 ** Problem Solved

Awesome new 20 move problem with a dynamic crux at the start and solid rock nearly the whole way. Starts on the big pocket of Say Ahhhhhhh, a couple of easy start moves set you up for a big move out left from a bad off angle right before joining Hopes In Slopes..

Set by God

FFA: @benjenga, 13th Dec

V7 Boulder
17 * Hope

A fun campus problem, start with a small pocket and crimp, move right to finger jug, left hand to small crimp above then swing right to a good incut high edge, match.

V4 Boulder 2m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 ** Say aaaaaaaah

Start on the big jug up to another jug pocket with glue on it then big moves up and right via crimps. Keep trucking right past another jug pocket to finish as teflon.

V4 Boulder
19 ** Teflon

Crag classic. Start in the back of the cave, big moves on big holds. Finish on the high big sloper.

V2 Boulder
20 Mosquito clamps Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
21 Anticipatory Anxiety

Straight up the face of the highball boulder. Use of either arête is "out".

Boulder Project 8m
22 Anti-anxiety Arete

HIGH.. This problem is 6m+ Has top rope anchors.

23 Sandy Candy

Scary ground up high ball, left hand on the arete. Has top rope anchors.

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2012

V2 Boulder 5m
24 Excision

Got better holds then the right hand side. Has top rope anchors.

V1 Boulder 4m
25 The Hyperhidrosis Problem

Straight up the middle of the face to top-out mantle. USE OF EITHER ARETE IS "OUT"..

Thin and balancy with all the hardest moves in the top half.

FA: Paul Thomson, 2014

V3 Boulder 6m
26 Gastroplasty

Harder of the two sides. Has top rope anchors.

V1 Boulder 4m
27 Anaphalaxis and the Angry Ant Attack

The ants are gone...

Once renowned as a "speed ascent problem" (as the crucial hold contained a nest of angry ants that swarmed once the hold was used), it's now a conventional and safe boulder problem.

Stand start, up via the one and only hold to top-out.

FA: Paul Thomson, 2012

V1 Boulder 3m
28 * Black Trash Traverse

Long block traverse from right to left. Start in small pockets on the top edge and traverse to the far left edge of the block

FFA: Ben JengA, 2012

V1 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
29 Dave's double dyno

Dave did the fa in about 1996. Start with both hands on the rail then big move up to the sloping lip. Speculated at the time to be v9 but who knows??

FA: Dave Browning

V9 Boulder 4m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
V0 Can you campus. Boulder
V1 Anaphalaxis and the Angry Ant Attack Boulder 3m
* Black Trash Traverse Boulder
Botox Boulder
Excision Boulder 4m
Gastroplasty Boulder 4m
V2 ** Go Go Gadget Boulder 4m
Necrosis Boulder 4m
Oxycel Boulder
Rocky-Davis Boulder 4m
Sandy Candy Boulder 5m
** Teflon Boulder
V3 * Nephrectomy Boulder 3m
Roof Pocket Boulder 5m
The Hyperhidrosis Problem Boulder 6m
** The Nurse Boulder 3m
V4 * Hope Boulder 2m
Jack-knife Boulder 3m
** Photocoagulator Boulder 4m
** Say aaaaaaaah Boulder
V5 ** Doctor Boulder 5m
*** Hopes In Slopes Boulder
V6 Gingivectomy Boulder 7m
V7 ** Problem Solved Boulder
V9 Dave's double dyno Boulder 4m
? Anti-anxiety Arete Boulder
Anticipatory Anxiety Boulder Project 8m
Mosquito clamps Boulder
Prosthesis Boulder