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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 150.603859, -33.753065
A great long bouldering cave tucked down behind some houses in blaxland. Avoid like herpes after rain. All the problems have been renamed in a "Surgery" theme as the original names have been lost to time. Names and grades are welcome for the unnamed problems, I just haven't done them.
- Access Issues: inherited from Lower Blue Mountains
From the lights on highway at blaxland (300m past the lappo) follow Coughlan Rd past Blaxland high school until you cross the train line. Take the first right and go straight onto the pebblecrete drive down behind the houses. Park at the end of the straight just before the road starts heading back up the hill.
- Descent Notes:
From the car walk straight down through the scrub crossing the fire road till you hit the start of the cliff line (100m), follow along the BASE of the cliff left 80m and your there.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.
No history yet, has been climbed at for a long time. Any history is very welcome.
Start from the big jug. Out and up. Committing.
Long undercling traverse. Some rumors of this traverse being grade 25.
Start matched on the undercling. Big moves and Big fun
Start at the back of the cave.
Same Start as Go Go Gadget but follows the left edge of the cave to finish on the black jugs.
Go Go Gadget
Start in the rad underslot, big moves to a high finish
Double side-pull start then up via crimps and slopes to the rail jug. A great problem and tricky until up figure out the beta.
Start at double undercling then up via nice crimps to jug, direct start V1
Start on jug right of the flake then undercling/side pull the the flake to finish on orange horn.
Start match on the undercling up via slopes and crimps to the camps ledge then big moves to high jug pocket.
Can you campus.
Simple campus from left to right
Start on the X jug rail above the ferns, traverse the roof until the campus ledge then finsh up P13
A fun campus problem, start with a small pocket and crimp, move right to finger jug, left hand to small crimp above then swing right to a good incut high edge, match.
Start on the big jug up to another jug pocket with glue on it then big moves up and right via crimps. Keep trucking right past another jug pocket to finish as teflon.
Crag classic. Start in the back of the cave, big moves on big holds. Finish on the high big sloper.
HIGH.. This problem is 6m+ Has top rope anchors.
Scary ground up high ball, left hand on the arete. Has top rope anchors.
FFA: Ben Jenga, 2012
Got better holds then the right hand side. Has top rope anchors.
The Hyperhidrosis Problem
Straight up the middle of the face to top-out mantle. Use of either arete is "out".
Thin and balancy. Has been climbed to 1m from the top.
Harder of the two sides. Has top rope anchors.
Anaphalaxis and the Angry Ant Attack
The ants are gone... :(
Once renowned as a "speed ascent problem" (as the crucial hold contained a nest of angry ants that swarmed once the hold was used), it's now a conventional and safe boulder problem.
Stand start, up via the one and only hold to top-out.
FA: Paul Thomson, 2012
Black Trash Traverse
Long block traverse from right to left. Start in small pockets on the top edge and traverse to the far left edge of the block
FFA: Ben JengA, 2012
|V0||Can you campus.|
|V1||Anaphalaxis and the Angry Ant Attack||3m|
|Black Trash Traverse|
|V2||Go Go Gadget|
|The Hyperhidrosis Problem||6m|