Cliff Guide for The Surgery

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. The Surgery 26 routes in Cliff

seasonality

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.603859, -33.753065

Description:

A great long bouldering cave tucked down behind some houses in blaxland. Avoid like herpes after rain. All the problems have been renamed in a "Surgery" theme as the original names have been lost to time. Names and grades are welcome for the unnamed problems, I just haven't done them.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach:

From the lights on highway at blaxland (300m past the lappo) follow Coughlan Rd past Blaxland high school until you cross the train line. Take the first right and go straight onto the pebblecrete drive down behind the houses. Park at the end of the straight just before the road starts heading back up the hill.

Descent Notes:

From the car walk straight down through the scrub crossing the fire road till you hit the start of the cliff line (100m), follow along the BASE of the cliff left 80m and your there.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

History:

No history yet, has been climbed at for a long time. Any history is very welcome.

Hide
		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Jack-knife Start from the big jug. Out and up. Committing.	V4	Boulder
2		Gingivectomy Long undercling traverse. Some rumors of this traverse being grade 25.		Boulder
3		Nephrectomy Start matched on the undercling. Big moves and Big fun	V3	Boulder
4		Photocoagulator Start at the back of the cave.	V4	Boulder		Paul Thomson 10 weeks ago Nooooo... Fell off trying to match on the last hold. Felt really good today, just couldn't quite ... Paul Thomson 11 weeks ago Really good. Couldn't link it but did every move. Spent most of my time destroying my knees to co...
5		Prosthesis Chipped.		Boulder
6		Oxycel Same Start as Go Go Gadget but follows the left edge of the cave to finish on the black jugs.	V2	Boulder		Jason Nguyen 7 months ago Flashed it, not so different from Go-Go Gadget, just a different finish. Nice big move to a jug r...
Hide Hide
		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
7		Go Go Gadget Start in the rad underslot, big moves to a high finish	V2	Boulder		Paul Thomson 10 weeks ago Repeat. Took a few shots before I would commit to the last move (water was running over the best ... Paul Thomson 11 weeks ago Repeat. Good moves, made more challenging by crazy spooginess. Enjoyable.
8		The Nurse Double side-pull start then up via crimps and slopes to the rail jug. A great problem and tricky until up figure out the beta.	V3	Boulder		Evan Freame 10 weeks ago do you match on the final rail to finish this problem? if not ticked after a few shots, if yes i ... Jason Nguyen 11 weeks ago Been a while since I've repeated this, but got it first go today, yay!
9		Doctor Same start as Necrosis then hard move into The Nurse to finish at the jug rail.	V5	Boulder
10		Necrosis Start at double undercling then up via nice crimps to jug, direct start V1	V2	Boulder		Paul Thomson 10 weeks ago Still can't stick that last move. Conditions didn't help, but regardless I find that move nails f... Evan Freame 10 weeks ago felt very hard
11		Botox Start on jug right of the flake then undercling/side pull the the flake to finish on orange horn.	V1	Boulder		Paul Thomson 10 weeks ago Repeat. Two laps today. Went easily this time. Paul Thomson 11 weeks ago An embarassing number of attempts before I got this. Okay bouldering, nothing great. Probably not...
Hide
		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
12		Rocky-Davis Start match on the undercling up via slopes and crimps to the camps ledge then big moves to high jug pocket.	V2	Boulder		Jason Nguyen 9 months ago A jug has broken off, but has not affected the climb majorly as the edge has plenty of good holds...
13		Can you campus. Simple campus from left to right	V0	Boulder		Jason Nguyen 10 months ago simple, easy warm-up along the edge Paul Thomson 10 months ago A bit of easy railing. I also did the P15 finish up to the higher pocket above.
14		Roof Pocket Start on the X jug rail above the ferns, traverse the roof until the campus ledge then finsh up P13	V3	Boulder		Paul Thomson 11 weeks ago Couldn't quite link it all, though more due to fear of the last move in todays conditions than an...
15		P15 slopey		Boulder
16		Hope A fun campus problem, start with a small pocket and crimp, move right to finger jug, left hand to small crimp above then swing right to a good incut high edge, match.	V4	Boulder		Ben Jenga 6 months ago A great campus problem, the key is moving with your swing.
Hide Hide
		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
17		Say aaaaaaaah Start on the big jug up to another jug pocket with glue on it then big moves up and right via crimps. Keep trucking right past another jug pocket to finish as teflon.	V4	Boulder		Ben Jenga 6 months ago I have been looking at this problem for years and I finally felt strong enough to send it.
18		Teflon Crag classic. Start in the back of the cave, big moves on big holds. Finish on the high big sloper.	V2	Boulder		Paul Thomson 10 weeks ago Repeat. Glad to get this one today with the hideous conditions. The last two moves are what make ... Paul Thomson 11 weeks ago Repeat. No tickage today, couldn't campus the final move due to conditions. Very good climbing.
19		Mosquito clamps		Boulder
Hide Hide
		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
20		Anti-anxiety Arete HIGH.. This problem is 6m+ Has top rope anchors.		Boulder
21		Sandy Candy Scary ground up high ball, left hand on the arete. Has top rope anchors. FFA: Ben Jenga, 2012	V2	Boulder 5m		Ben Jenga 9 months ago After I removed the big loose block it was time to send, ground up style. A good stance half way ...
22		Excision Got better holds then the right hand side. Has top rope anchors.	V1	Boulder 4m		Paul Thomson 11 weeks ago Juggier than the other arete, but the holds are more crumbly. Despite bigger holds and footers, I...
23		The Hyperhidrosis Problem Straight up the middle of the face to top-out mantle. Use of either arete is "out". Thin and balancy. Has been climbed to 1m from the top.		Boulder Project 6m		Paul Thomson 11 weeks ago Attempting to free this line. Thin, balancy, a bit grimy... Have climbed to within 1m of the topo...
24		Gastroplasty Harder of the two sides. Has top rope anchors.	V1	Boulder 4m		Paul Thomson 11 weeks ago Repeat. A bit scary but good fun. Trust in the small, sandy feet are the key. Paul Thomson 10 months ago Fun, easy slabbing with a bit of a highball feel, and surprisingly good rock.
25		Anaphalaxis and the Angry Ant Attack The ants are gone... :(	V1	Boulder		Paul Thomson 11 weeks ago Repeat. 2 laps today to teach OTHERS the STYLISH way of climbing this one. My pet ants seem to be... Jason Nguyen 11 weeks ago 4th times the charm.. right? Commitment issues 1 metre (if that) above the pad, nice one jason :P...
26		Black Trash Traverse Long block traverse from right to left. Start in small pockets on the top edge and traverse to the far left edge of the block FFA: Ben JengA, 2012	V1	Boulder		Paul Thomson 11 weeks ago Repeat. Pretty easy. Fun. Trust the feet. Paul Thomson 10 months ago Easy, fun, slapping along a vaguely ascending arete.

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style
V0			Can you campus.	Boulder
V1			Anaphalaxis and the Angry Ant Attack	Boulder
			Black Trash Traverse	Boulder
			Botox	Boulder
			Excision	Boulder 4m
			Gastroplasty	Boulder 4m
V2			Go Go Gadget	Boulder
			Necrosis	Boulder
			Oxycel	Boulder
			Rocky-Davis	Boulder
			Sandy Candy	Boulder 5m
			Teflon	Boulder
V3			Nephrectomy	Boulder
			Roof Pocket	Boulder
			The Nurse	Boulder
V4			Hope	Boulder
			Jack-knife	Boulder
			Photocoagulator	Boulder
			Say aaaaaaaah	Boulder
V5			Doctor	Boulder
?			Anti-anxiety Arete	Boulder
			Gingivectomy	Boulder
			Mosquito clamps	Boulder
			P15 slopey	Boulder
			Prosthesis	Boulder
			The Hyperhidrosis Problem	Boulder Project 6m