A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. The Surgery 27 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.603859, -33.753065

Description:

A great long bouldering cave tucked down behind some houses in blaxland.

Avoid like herpes after rain or on humid days.

All the problems have been renamed in a "Surgery" theme as the original names have been lost to antiquity. Names and grades are welcome for the unnamed problems, I just haven't done them.

Access Issues: inherited from Lower Blue Mountains

Be sensible.

Approach:

At Blaxland, turn off the Great Western Highway onto Coughlan Rd. Follow Coughlan Rd past the High School and over the railway bridge, and take the first right onto Honeyeater Cres. Where the road turns left, keep going straight ahead down what looks like a driveway. Follow to the bottom of the hill and around to the left. Park at the end of the straight just before the road starts heading back up the hill.

Descent Notes:

From the carpark, find and follow the faint trail heading through the bush and down the hill. When it intersects another trail, turn left and continue until you see another faint trail (marked by a cairn) heading down towards the creek.

Follow this towards the creek (do NOT cross the creek), and then follow the base of the cliffline around to the left, continuing until the cliff opens up to reveal The Surgery.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

History:

No history yet, has been climbed at for a long time. Any history is very welcome.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jack-knife

Start from the big jug. Out and up. Committing.

V4Boulder
2 Gingivectomy

Long undercling traverse.

FA: Ben "JengA" Lane, 24th Sep

V6Boulder 7m
3 * Nephrectomy

Start matched on the undercling. Big moves and Big fun

V3Boulder
4 ** Photocoagulator

Start at the back of the cave.

V4Boulder
5 Prosthesis

Chipped.

Boulder
6 Oxycel

Same Start as Go Go Gadget but follows the left edge of the cave to finish on the black jugs.

V2Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 ** Go Go Gadget

Start in the rad underslot, big moves to a high finish

V2Boulder
8 ** The Nurse

Double side-pull start then up via crimps and slopes to the rail jug. A great problem and tricky until up figure out the beta.

V3Boulder
9 ** Doctor

Same start as Necrosis then hard move into The Nurse to finish at the jug rail.

V5Boulder
10 Necrosis

Start at double undercling then up via nice crimps to jug, direct start V1

V2Boulder
11 Botox

Start on jug right of the flake then undercling/side pull the the flake to finish on orange horn.

V1Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 * Rocky-Davis

Start match on the undercling up via slopes and crimps to the camps ledge then big moves to high jug pocket.

V2Boulder
13 Can you campus.

Simple campus from left to right

V0Boulder
14 Roof Pocket

Start on the X jug rail above the ferns, traverse the roof until the campus ledge then finsh up P13

V3Boulder
15 Jenga slope project..

This could go free just needs a ladder and a good scrub.

Boulder
16 * Hope

A fun campus problem, start with a small pocket and crimp, move right to finger jug, left hand to small crimp above then swing right to a good incut high edge, match.

V4Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 ** Say aaaaaaaah

Start on the big jug up to another jug pocket with glue on it then big moves up and right via crimps. Keep trucking right past another jug pocket to finish as teflon.

V4Boulder
18 ** Teflon

Crag classic. Start in the back of the cave, big moves on big holds. Finish on the high big sloper.

V2Boulder
19 Mosquito clamps Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
20 Anticipatory Anxiety

Straight up the face of the highball boulder. Use of either arête is "out".

Boulder Project 8m
21 Anti-anxiety Arete

HIGH.. This problem is 6m+ Has top rope anchors.

Boulder
22 Sandy Candy

Scary ground up high ball, left hand on the arete. Has top rope anchors.

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2012

V2Boulder 5m
23 Excision

Got better holds then the right hand side. Has top rope anchors.

V1Boulder 4m
24 The Hyperhidrosis Problem

Straight up the middle of the face to top-out mantle. USE OF EITHER ARETE IS "OUT"..

Thin and balancy with all the hardest moves in the top half.

FA: Paul Thomson, 30th Sep

V3Boulder 6m
25 Gastroplasty

Harder of the two sides. Has top rope anchors.

V1Boulder 4m
26 Anaphalaxis and the Angry Ant Attack

The ants are gone... :(

Once renowned as a "speed ascent problem" (as the crucial hold contained a nest of angry ants that swarmed once the hold was used), it's now a conventional and safe boulder problem.

Stand start, up via the one and only hold to top-out.

FA: Paul Thomson, 2012

V1Boulder 3m
27 * Black Trash Traverse

Long block traverse from right to left. Start in small pockets on the top edge and traverse to the far left edge of the block

FFA: Ben JengA, 2012

V1Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
V0 Can you campus. Boulder
V1 Anaphalaxis and the Angry Ant Attack Boulder 3m
* Black Trash Traverse Boulder
Botox Boulder
Excision Boulder 4m
Gastroplasty Boulder 4m
V2 ** Go Go Gadget Boulder
Necrosis Boulder
Oxycel Boulder
* Rocky-Davis Boulder
Sandy Candy Boulder 5m
** Teflon Boulder
V3 * Nephrectomy Boulder
Roof Pocket Boulder
The Hyperhidrosis Problem Boulder 6m
** The Nurse Boulder
V4 * Hope Boulder
Jack-knife Boulder
** Photocoagulator Boulder
** Say aaaaaaaah Boulder
V5 ** Doctor Boulder
V6 Gingivectomy Boulder 7m
? Anti-anxiety Arete Boulder
Anticipatory Anxiety Boulder Project 8m
Jenga slope project.. Boulder
Mosquito clamps Boulder
Prosthesis Boulder