New lower mountains cliff under development. Is a good beginners crag on good rock.
This cliff is similar to the nearby birdwood gully walls and being in the lower mountains it contains some great rock and some sandy. All of the new routes have been bolted with beginners in mind and top ropes could easily be set up.
All the grades may be due to change with repeats??
The downside of it being a suburban crag is there is a lot of rubbish and a surprising amount of bongs at the base of the look out. We hope to be able to clean this up in the near future.
Park in the car park of Lomatia Park which is at the end of Lomatia Lane in Springwood.
At the carpark, the beginning of the grassy track is at the front of the house at the end of the street. Follow that track around the house and keep walking till you pass a couple of cul-de-sac, first being Park Ave and then Norton Ave.
At the end of Norton Ave cul-de-sac, with your back to the street, look for a sort of path and head directly into the bush till you get to a cliff edge without descending much. Once at the cliff edge, the crag is to your left, look for an easy scramble down. If you have to bush bash too much then you are likely not on the path.
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.
Two routes of unknown history existed before Sharpie and Mobe the dog found this cliff at Christmas.
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