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Backyard Basic

  • Grades: AU
  • Approach time: 5mins
  • Ascents: 130

Description

New lower mountains cliff under development. Is a good beginners crag on good rock.

This cliff is similar to the nearby birdwood gully walls and being in the lower mountains it contains some great rock and some sandy. All of the new routes have been bolted with beginners in mind and top ropes could easily be set up.

All the grades may be due to change with repeats??

The downside of it being a suburban crag is there is a lot of rubbish and a surprising amount of bongs at the base of the look out. We hope to be able to clean this up in the near future.

Access issues inherited from Lower Blue Mountains

Be sensible.

Approach

Park in the car park of Lomatia Park which is at the end of Lomatia Lane in Springwood.

At the carpark, the beginning of the grassy track is at the front of the house at the end of the street. Follow that track around the house and keep walking till you pass a couple of cul-de-sac, first being Park Ave and then Norton Ave.

Descent notes

At the end of Norton Ave cul-de-sac, with your back to the street, look for a sort of path and head directly into the bush till you get to a cliff edge without descending much. Once at the cliff edge, the crag is to your left, look for an easy scramble down. If you have to bush bash too much then you are likely not on the path.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

History

View historical timeline

Two routes of unknown history existed before Sharpie and Mobe the dog found this cliff at Christmas.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

First route of the crag. Stem up the tree to start until you reach the good jug. Nice wall climbing with a reachy top. Grade 16 if you dont use the tree to start

Set by Ben JengA, 5 Jan 2014

FFA: Ben Jenga, 8 Jan 2014

Great crimpy wall on good edges until the top flake that isn't as good as you hope.

Set by Ben JengA., 5 Jan 2014

FFA: Ben Jenga, 8 Jan 2014

Super top moves that require a bit of thinking and crimping.

Set by Sharpie, 5 Jan 2014

FFA: Sharpie, 8 Jan 2014

Some of the best rock on the wall with some sneaky pockets. Be careful with the top white jugs.

Set by Sharpie, 5 Jan 2014

FFA: Sharpie, 8 Jan 2014

Good interesting climbing in and out of caves. The top is reminiscent of the descent gully walls at Nowra.

Set by Sharpie, 5 Jan 2014

FFA: Sharpie, 8 Jan 2014

The left glue in carrot route to the chain. Details unknown? The hardest route at the crag, sequenced moves see you past the lower crux if you move your feet.

The right glue in carrot route, details unknown? Funk up the steep start to an easy finish. Home to one of the best holds on the wall.

Steep beginning to an easy top. Reachy moves to good jugs!

Set by Ben JengA, 5 Jan 2014

FFA: Ben Jenga, 8 Jan 2014

Soon to be bolted.

Soon to be bolted.

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