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Description

Short compact crag averaging about 15m in height The remotest part of the county. Lower cliffline of 'The Last Frontier'.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

Walk down the gully below Lovers Lane about 80m. Have fun!

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
14 R Fundip Trad 15m

Obscure in the extreme. Not well protected.

Start: 30m LEFT of the gully.

FA: B.Cameron,P.Chalkley, 1981

2
20 Clear Water Trad 7m

"Scale model of El Cap, about 1:300"

Start: First climb right of the gully.

FA: W.Moon,P.Chalkley, 1981

3
19 R The Prow Trad 15m

Start: 12m right. 'Arete'. No pro!

FA: M.Grey,J.Smoothy, 1981

4
16 R Stay Away Trad 10m

"A filthy piece of choss."

Start: 1m right. Obvious right facing corner.

FA: F.Moon,P.Chalkley, 1981

5
19 Lunar Crack Trad 15m

Ahhgh!

Start: 5m right. Ferns and crack to ledge then up.

FA: F&W.Moon, 1981

6
15 Moscow Sea Unknown 15m
7
20 * Lake of Dreams Trad 15m

First route done and the most striking line at the crag.

Start: 15m right. Obvious.

FA: A.Penney,I.Kressa,D.Wagland, 1980

8

Roof, crack and groove to top. Poor pro.

Start: 9m right.

FA: F.Moon,B.Cameron, 1981

9
18 R Sea of Vapours Trad 15m

The bolt 'rattled' in 1981!!

Start: 5m right. 'Steep' slab.

FA: G.Dowden,A.Penney,J.Smoothy, 1981

10
18 * Faces of Janus Unknown 15m
11
15 Bay of Billows Trad 15m

Start: 2m right. Short corner.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Dowden,A.Penney, 1981

12
11 Shibboleth Trad 20m

Short corner on right, right crack through roof, short crack 1m left of 'Secrets'.

Start: As for BoB.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1983

13
16 Secrets Trad 15m

Start: 10m right.

FA: B.Cameron,F.Moon, 1981

14
12 Slubberdegullion Trad 15m

Start: 18m right in middle of amphitheatre.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1983

15
21 Gamma World Trad 15m

Start: 4m right.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1983

16
16 One Giant Step Trad 25m

Start: 15m right. Left facing corner, crack.

FA: J.Croker,R.Starmer, 1983

17
19 * Crystal Vision Trad 15m

Start: 8m right. Corner to ledge, crack then right to scrubby ledge, flake and wall.

FA: W.Moon,B.Cameron, 1981

19

Confusing?

Start: Marked. 4m right.

FA: Wagland,Kressa,Penney or Williams,Hibbard., 1980

Open trips

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