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Description:© (mjw)

Short compact crag averaging about 15m in height The remotest part of the county. Lower cliffline of 'The Last Frontier'.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach:© (mjw)

Walk down the gully below Lovers Lane about 80m. Have fun!

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Fundip

Obscure in the extreme. Not well protected.

Start: 30m LEFT of the gully.

FA: B.Cameron,P.Chalkley, 1981

14 R
Trad 15m
2 Clear Water

"Scale model of El Cap, about 1:300"

Start: First climb right of the gully.

FA: W.Moon,P.Chalkley, 1981

20
Trad 7m
3 The Prow

Start: 12m right. 'Arete'. No pro!

FA: M.Grey,J.Smoothy, 1981

19 R
Trad 15m
4 Stay Away

"A filthy piece of choss."

Start: 1m right. Obvious right facing corner.

FA: F.Moon,P.Chalkley, 1981

16 R
Trad 10m
5 Lunar Crack

Ahhgh!

Start: 5m right. Ferns and crack to ledge then up.

FA: F&W.Moon, 1981

19
Trad 15m
6 Moscow Sea
15
Unknown 15m
7 * Lake of Dreams

First route done and the most striking line at the crag.

Start: 15m right. Obvious.

FA: A.Penney,I.Kressa,D.Wagland, 1980

20
Trad 15m
8 Moon Base Alfa Centauri

Roof, crack and groove to top. Poor pro.

Start: 9m right.

FA: F.Moon,B.Cameron, 1981

19 R
Trad 15m
9 Sea of Vapours

The bolt 'rattled' in 1981!!

Start: 5m right. 'Steep' slab.

FA: G.Dowden,A.Penney,J.Smoothy, 1981

18 R
Trad 15m
10 * Faces of Janus
18
Unknown 15m
11 Bay of Billows

Start: 2m right. Short corner.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Dowden,A.Penney, 1981

15
Trad 15m
12 Shibboleth

Short corner on right, right crack through roof, short crack 1m left of 'Secrets'.

Start: As for BoB.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1983

11
Trad 20m
13 Secrets

Start: 10m right.

FA: B.Cameron,F.Moon, 1981

16
Trad 15m
14 Slubberdegullion

Start: 18m right in middle of amphitheatre.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1983

12
Trad 15m
15 Gamma World

Start: 4m right.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1983

21
Trad 15m
16 One Giant Step

Start: 15m right. Left facing corner, crack.

FA: J.Croker,R.Starmer, 1983

16
Trad 25m
17 * Crystal Vision

Start: 8m right. Corner to ledge, crack then right to scrubby ledge, flake and wall.

FA: W.Moon,B.Cameron, 1981

19
Trad 15m
18 Crystal Vision Alternate Finish
10
Unknown 8m
19 Sea of Serenity/Faces of Janus?

Confusing?

Start: Marked. 4m right.

FA: Wagland,Kressa,Penney or Williams,Hibbard., 1980

18
Trad 15m

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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