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Description

Short compact crag averaging about 15m in height The remotest part of the county. Lower cliffline of 'The Last Frontier'.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Cosmic County

Due to changes in land ownership, some unnecessary angst created by climbers and the recent bush fires, the access situation to the Freezer, Cosmic County etc has now completely changed. The road down through the Buddist’s Monk’s Retreat must NOT be used under any circumstances. It is very important that climbers use the NEW access track (it skirts around to the eastern side of the Monks Retreat). Refer to Simon Carter's wesbite for new access details: http://www.onsight.com.au/bluemtns/

Approach

Walk down the gully below Lovers Lane about 80m. Have fun!

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Obscure in the extreme. Not well protected.

Start: 30m LEFT of the gully.

FA: B.Cameron & P.Chalkley, 1981

"Scale model of El Cap, about 1:300"

Start: First climb right of the gully.

FA: W.Moon & P.Chalkley, 1981

Start: 12m right. 'Arete'. No pro!

FA: M.Grey & J.Smoothy, 1981

"A filthy piece of choss."

Start: 1m right. Obvious right facing corner.

FA: F.Moon & P.Chalkley, 1981

Ahhgh!

Start: 5m right. Ferns and crack to ledge then up.

FA: F&W.Moon, 1981

First route done and the most striking line at the crag.

Start: 15m right. Obvious.

FA: A.Penney, I.Kressa & D.Wagland, 1980

Roof, crack and groove to top. Poor pro.

Start: 9m right.

FA: F.Moon & B.Cameron, 1981

The bolt 'rattled' in 1981!!

Start: 5m right. 'Steep' slab.

FA: G.Dowden, A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1981

Start: 2m right. Short corner.

FA: J.Smoothy, G.Dowden & A.Penney, 1981

Short corner on right, right crack through roof, short crack 1m left of 'Secrets'.

Start: As for BoB.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1983

Start: 10m right.

FA: B.Cameron & F.Moon, 1981

Start: 18m right in middle of amphitheatre.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1983

Start: 4m right.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1983

Start: 15m right. Left facing corner, crack.

FA: J.Croker & R.Starmer, 1983

Start: 8m right. Corner to ledge, crack then right to scrubby ledge, flake and wall.

FA: W.Moon & B.Cameron, 1981

Confusing?

Start: Marked. 4m right.

FA: Wagland, Kressa, Penney or Williams & Hibbard., 1980

Activity

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