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Description

Includes Haystack Madness. Area across the gully from Adults Only. A couple of trad lines, a couple of easy sport lines and some foolishness.

Access issues inherited from Bardens Lookout

* Temporary Access Change * Following the 2013 bushfires, the Collit's Crevasse and Lawson's Gully areas are no longer accessible from the main stairway entrance to Bardens (i.e., you can't turn right at the bottom of the stairs). Please respect the re-vegetation effort. Access to these areas is possible via Wentworth's Gully in Mt. York.

©

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 ** Haystack Madness Trad 25m

The extremely overhung crack, with holds inside the crack. This route is before the gully and just around the corner from the Grown Ups.

FA: R.Young, J.Smoothy & J.Lamb, 1980

2

Insane steepness at a tame grade. Slightly tarnished by a brief meander into Haystack Madness to avoid a V5 crux.

Start a few metres right of Haystack Madness. Stick clip 2nd bolt, then up through insane steepness on big jugs/breaks. After turning the lip of the big roof (at the 6th bolt) hand-traverse left to gain the crack of Haystack Madness. Up this for 2m, then back right to gain the 7th bolt. Then up the steep face, and into the big juggy roof to the anchors.

The Direct version DOES go free at about 26/27 (for a single, super-cruxy move).

Set by Paul Thomson, 7th Jul

FA: Paul Thomson, 11th Jul

3

Could do with a descent rap/lower off anchor! Take long slings.

Start: 33m right of the ravine. short wall to corner above.

FA: J.Lamb, J.Smoothy & R.Young, 1980

4
22 * Storm Child Trad 18m

Start: 3m right again. Through roof to ledge and out to arete.

FA: K.Shultz, 1992

5

Set by GBradbury/JJackson (rebolt2013)

FA: M Warren, 2012

6

The 3rd bolted line RIGHT of The Friendly Jackal. Has "25" scratched into a piece of shale in the first few metres of the climb.

7
22 * Red Sails Direct Sport 12m

Up and through horizontal roof 5m LEFT of the "square" that marks the start of the Original Red Sails (2 routes off THAT start), then up short thin face on red rock to chain lower off. Optional continuation up the original Red Sails to the top of the cliff.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1996

8
21 Red Sails Sport 22m

20m right of TFJ. Up through shale to nice wall above.

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1984

9
22 Two Nil Sport 25m

Shares start through shale with the previous and the following route. Left line of rings.

FA: M.Pircher, 2009

10

As for Red Sails, then R and up.

FA: M.Pircher, 2009

11
18 Unnamed Pircher 1 Sport 20m

1m R of previous route. Choss to grey wall.

Set by Martin Pircher

FA: 2013

12
17 Unnamed Pircher 2 Sport 20m

500mm right again. Should probably stickclip these.

Set by Martin Pircher

FA: 2013

13
Project - Mitch Sport Project

A bit ...a lot of 'Madness' through a roof. Apparently the finger lock won't be necessary!

Set by Mitch Warren

FA: Open, 2000

14
21 Karma Sport 20m

22m R of Red Sails.

FA: M.Pircher, 2009

15
20 Mind Over Matter Trad 40m

Roof cracks to right hand corner, ledge, left to wall and up right to cave. Up.

Start: 38m right of RS.

FA: J.Friend & B.Eswald, 1976

Open trips

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