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Includes Haystack Madness. Area across the gully from Adults Only. A couple of trad lines, a couple of easy sport lines and some foolishness.

Access issues inherited from Bardens Lookout

* Temporary Access Change * Following the 2013 bushfires, the Collit's Crevasse and Lawson's Gully areas are no longer accessible from the main stairway entrance to Bardens (i.e., you can't turn right at the bottom of the stairs). Please respect the re-vegetation effort. Access to these areas is possible via Wentworth's Gully in Mt. York.


Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well intrenched as the most popular form of Bluies climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). Its also a good warmup for your forearms!


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route
20 ** Haystack Madness Trad 25m

The extremely overhung crack, with holds inside the crack. This route is before the gully and just around the corner from the Grown Ups.

FA: R.Young, J.Smoothy & J.Lamb, 1980


Could do with a descent rap/lower off anchor! Take long slings.

Start: 33m right of the ravine. short wall to corner above.

FA: J.Lamb, J.Smoothy & R.Young, 1980

22 * Storm Child Trad 18m

Start: 3m right again. Through roof to ledge and out to arete.

FA: K.Shultz, 1992

21 Red Sails Direct Sport 12m

FA: J.Smoothy, 1996


Set by GBradbury/JJackson (rebolt2013)

FA: M Warren, 2012

21 * Red Sails Sport 45m

Up through shale to nice wall above.

Start: 20m right of TFJ.

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1984

19 Two Nil Sport 25m

Shares start through shale with the previous and the following route. Left line of rings.

FA: M.Pircher, 2009


FA: M.Pircher, 2009

18 Unnamed Pircher 1 Sport 20m

1m right of previous route. Choss to grey wall.

FA: 2013

17 Unnamed Pircher 2 Sport 20m

500mm right again. Should probably stick clip these.

FA: 2013

Project - Mitch Sport Project

A bit ...a lot of 'Madness' through a roof. Apparently the finger lock wont be neccessary!

FA: Open, 2000

19 Karma Sport 20m

FA: M.Pircher, 2009

20 Mind Over Matter Trad 40m

Roof cracks to right hand corner, ledge, left to wall and up right to cave. Up.

Start: 38m right of RS.

FA: J.Friend & B.Eswald, 1976

Open trips

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