Site navigation

Grade search

Leaderboard

Instant PDF

We don't know where this crag is located. Do you? Locate crag
Description:

Includes Haystack Madness. Area across the gully from Adults Only. A couple of trad lines, a couple of easy sport lines and some foolishness.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 ** Haystack Madness

The extremely overhung crack, with holds inside the crack. This route is before the gully and just around the corner from the Grown Ups.

FA: R.Young,J.Smoothy,J.Lamb, 1980

20
Trad 25m
2 * The Friendly Jackal

Could do with a descent rap/lower off anchor! Take long slings.

Start: 33m right of the ravine. short wall to corner above.

FA: J.Lamb,J.Smoothy,R.Young, 1980

16
Trad 20m
3 * Storm Child

Start: 3m right again. Through roof to ledge and out to arete.

FA: K.Shultz, 1992

22
Trad 18m
4 Red Sails Direct

FA: J.Smoothy, 1996

21
Sport 12m
5 Project - Open

Loose and missing rings through the choss.

project
Unknown 15m
6 * Red Sails

Up through shale to nice wall above.

Start: 20m right of TFJ.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1984

21
Sport 45m
7 Two Nil

Shares start through shale with the previous and the following route. Left line of rings.

FA: M.Pircher, 2009

19
Sport 25m
8 Back to the Kraut House

FA: M.Pircher, 2009

19
Sport 25m
9 Project - Mitch

A bit ...a lot of 'Madness' through a roof. Apparently the finger lock wont be neccessary!

FA: Open, 2000

Sport Project
10 Karma

FA: M.Pircher, 2009

19
Sport 20m
11 Mind Over Matter

Roof cracks to right hand corner, ledge, left to wall and up right to cave. Up.

Start: 38m right of RS.

FA: J.Friend,B.Eswald, 1976

20
Trad 40m

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.