Middle Cliffs 100 routes in cliff
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This long section of continuous cliffline hosts the majority of the popular routes at Sublime Point. It is a steep and exciting descent but once you are at the cliff it's a nice flat area with easy access to a plethora of great climbs. Most of these climbs face west-south-west, so get sun around 3pm.
Access issues inherited from West Face
There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.
This area is 12km closer to Sydney than the more popular Blueys crags around Blackheath! From the town of 'Leura' follow signs towards Fairmont Resort until you hit 'Sublime Point' Rd. Follow this south for a few kilometers to end of road and carpark. Walk down tourist track for 100m or so until you reach the bridge. Just before the bridge drop down and left to enter gully and surf down the pine needles to base of small cliff (Lookout Micro Area). Walk right under this cliff for 20m then turn left down track past gnarled banksia tree. Down ridge a bit, scramble down sketchy corner on right and keep following exposed track to magic hole (squirm down it!). Keep going steeply down past some fixed ropes - at the bottom of these on the left is The 'Cool Wall'. For the 'Main Area' continue down easier but steep ridge, to cut back right (north) along the base of the cliffline. (There is still another lower cliffline below you). To get to 'Sweet Dreams', walk north along the base of this cliff following a well trodden track for several hundred metres, passing several walls. You will reach the "cable of death" traverse - yes, you need to go across here and 'Sweet Dreams' is just a few more metres along.
Rather than walking down, it is possible to rap in from above 'Ben Trovato' Wall or 'Sweet Dreams' Wall, but it's hard to find where to scramble down from above and you either need to fix a 100m rope or make multiple 50m abseils on double ropes. This is probably too scary, exposed and committing for most 'Sweet Dreams' aspirants.
To exit any of the multi-pitch routes walk up hill until you hit small tourist path. Turn right then follow the track back to carpark (5 minutes).
Ethic inherited from West Face
Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there has been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbign venue.
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