Theory of Negativity Wall Rock climbing10 routes in sector
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Access issues inherited from West Face
There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.
Ethic inherited from West Face
Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there has been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbign venue.
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Sandy flake and roof crack 7m right of Lead Zeppelin that goes up and out and out and out. Macca has freed up to the roof crack above the ledge about 8m up, and reckons the whole thing would be good at about M3 or free climb at about 20ish? to the ledge and hard 23? through the roof crack. Small, small to medium cams and wires.
Finally some better rock! A good first pitch up a major line but degenerates further up on the black slabs.
Start: Marked LZ
23m (17) A steep corner crack past some greenery then cranks through a roof via a chimney. There is a rusty pin for historical interest. Belay at tree.
30m (-) Continue up wide crack in slabby black wall to tree belay.
40m (-) More of the same low angle trench climbing to tree belay on steep hillside. Scramble and bush bash up from here.
Start as for Theory on Negativity. At 2nd bolt veer right and up steep wall.
FFA: Jason Lammers & Neil Monteith, 2010
Sensational juggy sport climbing up a long and steep orange scoop. Surprisingly easy with big holds the whole way up. Starts aprox 10m left of Lead Zeppelin at impressive orange wall.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2009
Orange featured face 2m left of 'Theory of Negativity'. Bouldery start so stick clip the 2nd bolt if 23 is your limit.
FA: N Monteith, 2009
Start 2m left of TC. Directly up the slightly overhung orange wall.
FA: Jason Lammers, 2012
They don't make them like this anymore, and that's probably a good thing. Another hybrid bush-walk slash rock-climb done by the 50s pioneers of choss and doodle.
Start: Starts 2m left of The Cramps at vertical vegetated corner.
20m (-) Scrub to ledge and tree belay.
20m (10) Scrub to ledge, dirty crack and up to bush.
13m (-) Scrub to ledge (seeing the theme emerging here?)
12m (-) Right and up to ledge
15m (-) Filthy chimney on left.
FA: Cooke, Cunningham, 1958
A big black juggy slab of dubious quality.
Start: Start on left of black wall about 10m left of 'Levitation Chimney'.
23m (8) Up and slightly right.
27m (-) Through overhangs
20m (-) Up to scrub, up and right to finish under bridge. Up buttress on right.
Another major line of least resistance and most vegetation.
Start: Start as for 'Kedumba Gambit'.
50m (12) Climb first two pitches of 'Kedumba Gambit'.
17m (-) Scrubby ledge left to tree.
10m (-) Yummy chimney.
20m (-) Continue up the chimney to tree.
10m (-) Continue up chimney to cave and tree.
13m (-) Right crack
15m (-) Up.