A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
For more information refer to our Usage policy
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- Trad,Sport and Aid
- Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.
- Ethic:© inherited from Sublime Point
Traditional and Mixed climbing.
Not quite Sublime. Starts at right end of black dirty slab where the descent track flattens out to the shale ledge.
Start below yellow chossy crack 10m left of Pawns Leap. Up, through roof crack and continue up slabby vegetated crack above to tree belay.
Choc Chip Chai
A steep pumper on some of the biggest holds in the mountains - overhangs 5m. Start off cairn to bypass undercut start. Right into little corner, traverse right across horizontal to steep prow, jug up this to overhanging orange wall with finale crux to anchor. Bolted with a mix of rings and FHs.
Start: Starts about 5m left of ES (40m left of access track) at steep orange overhanging wall between massive choss.
lucky chance 10 weeks ago|
Jason Nguyen 10 weeks ago
Line of least resistance through a world of seething choss.
Start: Starts at chossy groove under big overhang 2m left of 'Choc Chip Chai'.
Jim Croft 8 years ago|
Defecation Direct Start
Appallingly chossy corner that joins into the first pitch of 'Defaecation' after the traverse.
Start: Marked DDS. Starts 10m left of original route.
Major line on the right side of alcove. The steep corner crack on the third pitch actually looks quite good and would go free!
Start: Start by taking pictures of the fascinating witches who put the scintillating stitches in the britches of the boys who put the powder on the noses on the faces of the ladies of the harem of the court of King 'Caractacus', who are just passing by ... at the choss 20m left of DDS.
FA: J. Pickard, 1968
1950s style chossy ramble. Who needs protection when you just have a rope tied around your waist anyway?
Start: Starts 8m left of C on left side of square alcove.
Jim Croft 6 years ago|
Little Jug of Happiness
Easy first pitch leads to extremely overhung corner with easy climbing through ridiculous roofs. Extra exposed
FA: Mikl, Ness, and Monty, 2012
Vanessa Wills 6 months ago|
Susy G 7 months ago
Finally some better rock! A good first pitch up a major line but degenerates further up on the black slabs.
Start: Marked LZ
The Draw Thief
Start as for Theory on Negativity. At 2nd bolt veer right and up steep wall.
FFA: Jason Lammers & Neil Monteith, 2010
Susy G 7 months ago|
Tim Haasnoot 7 months ago
Theory of Negativity
Juggy sport climbing up a long and steep orange scoop. Surprisingly easy with big holds the whole way up. The obvious orange scoopy wall.
Start: Starts aprox 10m left of Lead Zeppelin at impressive orange wall.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2009
Taib 7 weeks ago|
lucky chance 10 weeks ago
Orange featured face 2m left of 'Theory of Negativity'. Bouldery start so stick clip the 2nd bolt if 23 is your limit.
FA: N Monteith, 2009
Taib 4 weeks ago|
Jay Logan 6 weeks ago
On the Wagon
Start 2m left of TC. Directly up the slightly overhung orange wall.
FA: Jason Lammers, 2012
lucky chance 6 weeks ago|
Matthew Glendenning 9 weeks ago
Grains of Sand
They don't make them like this anymore, and that's probably a good thing. Another hybrid bush-walk slash rock-climb done by the 50s pioneers of choss and doodle.
Start: Starts 2m left of The Cramps at vertical vegetated corner.
A big black juggy slab of dubious quality.
Start: Start on left of black wall about 10m left of 'Levitation Chimney'.
Another major line of least resistance and most vegetation.
Start: Start as for 'Kedumba Gambit'.
Multi-pitch climbing via a series of overhung orange buttresses divided by good ledges. First three pitches complete - top three are still a closed project. Starts 50m left of Theory of Negativity at recessed orange corner with large orange hanging arete high above it. Trad only required on the first pitch - or if you can't place trad you can climb the optional, but not as good, I Don't Place Wigglies 4m left.
FA: Neil Monteith, Jason Lammers and Chris Coghill, 2012
Jason Lammers 1 years ago|
Neil Monteith 1 years ago
I Don't Climb Wigglies
Bolted black wall just left of recessed orange corner. Not great. This is the only way of doing the multipitch Cynics United if you can't place trad.
FA: Neil Monteith & Chris Coghill, 2012
Jason Lammers 7 months ago|
Neil Monteith 1 years ago
Start: Starts 43m left of KG at mossy black wall.
Start: Starts as for 'The Iliad'
FA: Chris Regan, Bob Ryan,
Mike Patterson 8 years ago|
A major old-school line of little modern merit.
Start: Start at big black wall or small wall to its side.
Simon Ellis 4 years ago|
Jim Croft 8 years ago
Constipation Chimney Variant Start
Marked CCVS, anchours added so now it makes a great single pitch trad climb. Be care full of some loss rock at the top.
Paul Thomson 1 years ago|
|Constipation Chimney Variant Start||19m|
|Defecation Direct Start||15m|
|17||Grains of Sand|
|19||Choc Chip Chai||715m ,|
|20||Little Jug of Happiness||65m|
|Theory of Negativity||922m ,|
|21||I Don't Climb Wigglies||917m ,|
|22||The Draw Thief||1120m ,|
|23||On the Wagon||22m|
|The cramps||1022m ,|