Sector Guide for Theory of Negativity Wall

Not quite Sublime. Starts at right end of black dirty slab where the descent track flattens out to the shale ledge.

1. 17m (12) Up near dirt to tree.

2. 13m (12) Up (more information required!)

3. 17m (12) Slight left around overhang and up to dirt. Traverse left around corner then scramble up.

Start below yellow chossy crack 10m left of Pawns Leap. Up, through roof crack and continue up slabby vegetated crack above to tree belay.

Choc Chip Chai

A steep pumper on some of the biggest holds in the mountains - overhangs 5m. Start off cairn to bypass undercut start. Right into little corner, traverse right across horizontal to steep prow, jug up this to overhanging orange wall with finale crux to anchor. Bolted with a mix of rings and FHs.

Start: Starts about 5m left of ES (40m left of access track) at steep orange overhanging wall between massive choss.

Line of least resistance through a world of seething choss.

Start: Starts at chossy groove under big overhang 2m left of 'Choc Chip Chai'.

1. 13m (12) Choss for 7m then dawdle left on small ledge and around nose into corner. Onto ledge and up to block. Old bolt belay.

2. 10m (14) Wall to cave and old double bolt belay.

3. 20m (14) Overhang on left and wall.

Appallingly chossy corner that joins into the first pitch of 'Defaecation' after the traverse.

Start: Marked DDS. Starts 10m left of original route.

Major line on the right side of alcove. The steep corner crack on the third pitch actually looks quite good and would go free!

Start: Start by taking pictures of the fascinating witches who put the scintillating stitches in the britches of the boys who put the powder on the noses on the faces of the ladies of the harem of the court of King 'Caractacus', who are just passing by ... at the choss 20m left of DDS.

1. 27m (12) Chossy corner of sorts to small ledge on the left and old bolt belay.

2. 11m (12) Continue up rambling corner crack to ledge.

3. 22m (12 M4) Free and aid through overhung corner crack to tree.

4. 50m (12) Easily up trending left.

FA: J. Pickard, 1968

1950s style chossy ramble. Who needs protection when you just have a rope tied around your waist anyway?

Start: Starts 8m left of C on left side of square alcove.

1. 20m (11) Up sandy corner nonsense to cave then left until you can stand.

2. 17m (11) Up to cave, onto wall and up to small cave.

3. 20m (12) Up to big ledge and tree belay.

4. 40m (-) Left across ledge.

5. 33m (12) Up and right to tree

6. 20m (-) Walk to 5m corner, up it to tree.

7. 27m (-) Up right to ledge to first gully. Up to flakes then chimney. Up to tree.

8. 13m (-) Chimney.

Little Jug of Happiness

Easy first pitch leads to extremely overhung corner with easy climbing through ridiculous roofs. Extra exposed

1. (18) Easy sandy pox. Either lower off or climbing up and right to Ubolts at base of corner. Pitch

2. (20) Up corner to final undercling moves, juggy on good rock. There is a lower off on the lip, but it would be terrifying and your rope would run over all sorts of scariness. Best to lead and second this pitch. Pull over the top and there’s a pair Ubolts at the back of the ledge

3. (12) Up wall on left past a ring to trees and ledge. Walk right 40m to rejoin walk-down. If going to top from here, go up the gully 10m and walk right

FA: Mikl, Ness, and Monty, 2012

Finally some better rock! A good first pitch up a major line but degenerates further up on the black slabs.

Start: Marked LZ

1. 23m (17) A steep corner crack past some greenery then cranks through a roof via a chimney. There is a rusty pin for historical interest. Belay at tree.

2. 30m (-) Continue up wide crack in slabby black wall to tree belay.

3. 40m (-) More of the same low angle trench climbing to tree belay on steep hillside. Scramble and bush bash up from here.

Start as for Theory on Negativity. At 2nd bolt veer right and up steep wall.

FFA: Jason Lammers & Neil Monteith, 2010

Theory of Negativity

Juggy sport climbing up a long and steep orange scoop. Surprisingly easy with big holds the whole way up. The obvious orange scoopy wall.

Start: Starts aprox 10m left of Lead Zeppelin at impressive orange wall.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2009

The cramps

Orange featured face 2m left of 'Theory of Negativity'. Bouldery start so stick clip the 2nd bolt if 23 is your limit.

FA: N Monteith, 2009

On the Wagon

Start 2m left of TC. Directly up the slightly overhung orange wall.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

Marked GR

They don't make them like this anymore, and that's probably a good thing. Another hybrid bush-walk slash rock-climb done by the 50s pioneers of choss and doodle.

Start: Starts 2m left of The Cramps at vertical vegetated corner.

1. 20m (-) Scrub to ledge and tree belay.

2. 20m (10) Scrub to ledge, dirty crack and up to bush.

3. 13m (-) Scrub to ledge (seeing the theme emerging here?)

4. 12m (-) Right and up to ledge

5. 15m (-) Filthy chimney on left.

A big black juggy slab of dubious quality.

Start: Start on left of black wall about 10m left of 'Levitation Chimney'.

1. 23m (8) Up and slightly right.

2. 27m (-) Through overhangs

3. 20m (-) Up to scrub, up and right to finish under bridge. Up buttress on right.

Another major line of least resistance and most vegetation.

Start: Start as for 'Kedumba Gambit'.

1. 50m (12) Climb first two pitches of 'Kedumba Gambit'.

2. 17m (-) Scrubby ledge left to tree.

3. 10m (-) Yummy chimney.

4. 20m (-) Continue up the chimney to tree.

5. 10m (-) Continue up chimney to cave and tree.

6. 13m (-) Right crack

7. 15m (-) Up.

Cynics United

Multi-pitch climbing via a series of overhung orange buttresses divided by good ledges. First three pitches complete - top three are still a closed project. Starts 50m left of Theory of Negativity at recessed orange corner with large orange hanging arete high above it. Trad only required on the first pitch - or if you can't place trad you can climb the optional, but not as good, I Don't Place Wigglies 4m left.

1. (17m, 16) Trad - orange recessed corner with twin cracks. Finish up the left hand corner crack to big ledge and bolt belay. Eats finger to hand size cams and big wires.

2. (25m, 22, 11 bolts) Up left side of orange wall for a few metres - then traverse right to small hanging corner and onto small ledge. Right edge of this find hidden bolt then up overhung arete which turns into frightening large ironstone jugs. Belay on large ledge. You can rap from here to ground with two 50m ropes.

3. (15m, 22, 7 bolts) Walk 50m left along shale ledge to bolt belay below big orange wall. Undercut start on jugs then up pumpy face on slots. Belay on small ledge.

4. (15m, 24) Out, right and up the imposing orange wall and prow with a squillion bolts. Belay on small ledge.

5. (10m, 15) Juggy steep wall past diving board to cruddy black rock topout. Belay on tree well back from edge

FA: Neil Monteith, Jason Lammers and Chris Coghill, 2012

Bolted black wall just left of recessed orange corner. Not great. This is the only way of doing the multipitch Cynics United if you can't place trad.

FA: Neil Monteith & Chris Coghill, 2012

Start: Starts 43m left of KG at mossy black wall.

1. 27m (-) Thin crack and wall to bollard

2. 27m (-) Overhang on small nose and up to ledge.

3. 13m (16) Crux. 'Steep' corner crack to lip, corner to cave.

4. 20m (-) Crack to ramp, along right and up crack.

Start: Starts as for 'The Iliad'

1. 27m (-) Climb pitch 1 of 'The Iliad'.

2. 20m (-) Wall to scrub.

3. 13m (-) Overhang past old piton and up to ledge.

4. 24m (-) Up 6m, traverse left on small ledge, up to big ledge and traverse left into 'Constipation Chimney'.

FA: Chris Regan, Bob Ryan,

A major old-school line of little modern merit.

Start: Start at big black wall or small wall to its side.

1. 30m (-) Up to first ledge 2m right of corner.

2. 13m (-) Diagonally left and up to ledge.

3. 30m (-) Traverse left to corner and up to ledge.

4. 20m (12) Chimney to cave on left.

5. 17m (-) Up, ignoring the scrub on the left.

6. 13m (-) Wall on right.

7. 13m (-) Traverse left and up chimney.

Constipation Chimney Variant Start

Marked CCVS, anchours added so now it makes a great single pitch trad climb. Be care full of some loss rock at the top.