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Table of contents

1. Theory of Negativity Wall 10 routes in Sector

Trad and Sport
Access Issues: inherited from West Face (Main Area)

There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.

Ethic: inherited from West Face (Main Area)

Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pink Falloyd (Project Macca)

Sandy flake and roof crack 7m right of Lead Zeppelin that goes up and out and out and out. Macca has freed up to the roof crack above the ledge about 8m up, and reckons the whole thing would be good at about M3 or free climb at about 20ish? to the ledge and hard 23? through the roof crack. Small, small to medium cams and wires.

Trad Project 15m
2 Lead Zepplin

Finally some better rock! A good first pitch up a major line but degenerates further up on the black slabs.

Start: Marked LZ

  1. 23m (17) A steep corner crack past some greenery then cranks through a roof via a chimney. There is a rusty pin for historical interest. Belay at tree.

  2. 30m (-) Continue up wide crack in slabby black wall to tree belay.

  3. 40m (-) More of the same low angle trench climbing to tree belay on steep hillside. Scramble and bush bash up from here.

17 Trad 90m 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 The Draw Thief

Start as for Theory on Negativity. At 2nd bolt veer right and up steep wall.

FFA: Jason Lammers & Neil Monteith, 2010

22 Sport 20m, 11
4 *** Theory of Negativity

Sensational juggy sport climbing up a long and steep orange scoop. Surprisingly easy with big holds the whole way up. Starts aprox 10m left of Lead Zeppelin at impressive orange wall.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2009

20 Sport 22m, 9
5 * The cramps

Orange featured face 2m left of 'Theory of Negativity'. Bouldery start so stick clip the 2nd bolt if 23 is your limit.

FA: N Monteith, 2009

23 Sport 22m, 10
6 * On the Wagon

Start 2m left of TC. Directly up the slightly overhung orange wall.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

23 Sport 22m
7 Grains of Sand

Marked GR

17 Trad
8 Levitation Chimney

They don't make them like this anymore, and that's probably a good thing. Another hybrid bush-walk slash rock-climb done by the 50s pioneers of choss and doodle.

Start: Starts 2m left of The Cramps at vertical vegetated corner.

  1. 20m (-) Scrub to ledge and tree belay.

  2. 20m (10) Scrub to ledge, dirty crack and up to bush.

  3. 13m (-) Scrub to ledge (seeing the theme emerging here?)

  4. 12m (-) Right and up to ledge

  5. 15m (-) Filthy chimney on left.

FA: Cooke, Cunningham, 1958

9 Trad 80m 5
9 Kedumba Gambit

A big black juggy slab of dubious quality.

Start: Start on left of black wall about 10m left of 'Levitation Chimney'.

  1. 23m (8) Up and slightly right.

  2. 27m (-) Through overhangs

  3. 20m (-) Up to scrub, up and right to finish under bridge. Up buttress on right.

8 Trad 70m 3
10 The Belfry

Another major line of least resistance and most vegetation.

Start: Start as for 'Kedumba Gambit'.

  1. 50m (12) Climb first two pitches of 'Kedumba Gambit'.

  2. 17m (-) Scrubby ledge left to tree.

  3. 10m (-) Yummy chimney.

  4. 20m (-) Continue up the chimney to tree.

  5. 10m (-) Continue up chimney to cave and tree.

  6. 13m (-) Right crack

  7. 15m (-) Up.

12 Trad 70m 7

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
8 Kedumba Gambit Trad 70m 3
9 Levitation Chimney Trad 80m 5
12 The Belfry Trad 70m 7
17 Grains of Sand Trad
Lead Zepplin Trad 90m 3
20 *** Theory of Negativity Sport 22m, 9
22 The Draw Thief Sport 20m, 11
23 * On the Wagon Sport 22m
* The cramps Sport 22m, 10
? Pink Falloyd (Project Macca) Trad Project 15m