Topo #4024

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Area Type
? Andy's Area

A fun little sport sector of VERY well protected face routes. The wall faces south west, so is in the shade until mid afternoon. It's possible to do a few routes here on the walk out when the main area is in the sun.

Sector Unlink area
? Choc Chip Chai Sector

The first wall you reach when you reach the bottom of the steep descent and turn right (towards Sweet Dreams).

Sector Unlink area
? Theory of Negativity Wall
Sector Unlink area
? Iliad Buttress

50m left of Theory of Negativity Wall is a hanging orange arete visible high above the trees. There is a recessed twin corner crack leading up to it. This is Cynics United. Above and left of this arete is the main Iliad Buttress, somewhat hidden from below.

Sector Unlink area
? Binary Cave

A popular all-weather sport crag, with a couple of hairy rad cracks as well. This 50m wide section of orange wall extends left from Constipation Chimney and is protected from heavy rain by a vast roof 40m above the deck. The base is totally dry for 5m out from the cliff, is fairly flat and is a great place to hang out when the weather turns nasty (most routes were established during the wettest summer in memory!). There are currently more than 15 sport routes, and several rarely repeated old school steep trad lines. Most routes are 20-25m single pitches which end at anchors just below a large shale ledge. There are a couple of ancient aid routes which continue through the roofs above currently being freed as trad (plus future free trad potential!). Bring a rope mat as the base of the crag is dirty. Stick-clips are useful.

Sector Unlink area
? Ben Trovato Wall

This amazing orange wall is visible high through the trees from above the shale ledge track, just before you get to the cable/wire traverse of death leading to Sweet Dreams. It's just like the famous Janicepts Wall at Piddington - a slightly overhung black and orange wall extending left from a stonking corner crack - except Ben Trovato Wall is three times higher and with better rock! All the routes are technical face climbs, usually very sustained and well protected by new bolts (or bomber trad). The rock is very rough in places - bring a good set of finger tips.

Sector Unlink area
? Sweet Dreams Walls

This area is the main introduction to climbing at Sublime Point for many beginners - due to the classic easy route Sweet Dreams. On a nice day there can be several parties on the route at once, so if crowds aren't your thing get on the route early! The sun hits this wall around midday - and can be scorching. Bring enough water and sunscreen!

Sector Unlink area
Route Grade Popularity Style
? *** Sweet Dreams

One of the most popular multi pitch routes in the Blue Mountains offering up a simmering dish of big exposure, good protection and easy moves. On nice sunny weekends there can be a queue so get in early! Sleepyheads starting at the crack of noon (which is bizarrely common) will also miss out on the cool morning shade and get smashed by the sun which blasts the route from midday onwards. The route is protected by carrot with each anchor being double ring bolts. A few cams required for pitch 2 and to reduce runout on pitch 4. Most of the carrot bolts were placed after the first ascent. Start: After crossing the fixed wire walk another 40m or so to base of short scrappy looking right facing corner on right side of giant block. Up above is the vast black slab of the higher pitches. 1. 20m (14) Short wall onto ledge then left to chimney, up to ledge and DRB belay. 2. 30m (10) Crack to block and DRB bolt belay. (Cams: .3 - 1) 3. 33m (13) Traverse up and right across slab to bolt belay. 4. 30m (13) Up a few bolts (slightly run out so cam placement if required), then step right to crack above bowl clenching exposure. Belay on big ledge below corner. 5. 37m (14) Up easy corner for 20m and exit either left up exposed wall into the 'Variant Finish' (nicer but harder) or right (easy) to big ledge. 6. 20m (10) If you took the right variant climb chossy overhang above.

14 Trad 180m 6 Unlink route
? * Knight's Mare

A good summer adventure as it stays shady until early afternoon, but there is (was) clearly nothing wrong with a winter ascent! The first ascent was made in 13th July. Gear: 1 set Cams #0.3 – 4, wires, 4 brackets, 8-10 quick draws, 4 slings. 1. 50m (14) As for pitches 1 and 2 of 'Sweet Dreams' with 1 BR at the start and 1 BR just before the double rings in corner. Caution: Massive rope drag! 2. 20m (14) Ignore bolts out right on Sweet Dreams and climb the corner direct (past an old rusty bolt 8m up) then continue on easy grey wall right of corner to large ledge and single rusty BR and small tree. You can belay here (with a bit of jiggery pokery - or link into next pitch) 3. 20m (15) Up slab above ledge then into vegetated corner (you can stem around the worst bits) to a short chimney (fixed hex with orange sling in the back of corner and an old shitty BR towards the front). Some people belay here but it is much nicer to continue up for another 5m onto large loose rock ledge on the right. Trad belay on medium cams and wires. 4. 15m (15) Traverse horizontally right with epic exposure and good cams to base of black corner and trad belay. You can join this pitch into the next pitch. 2. 25m (16) Up the sandy corner and at top exit right onto ledge (poor pro) and scramble up vegetation to tree belay.

16 Mixed 200m 4, 2 Unlink route

Topo #4057

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1 Pink Falloyd (Project Macca)

Sandy flake and roof crack 7m right of Lead Zeppelin that goes up and out and out and out. Macca has freed up to the roof crack above the ledge about 8m up, and reckons the whole thing would be good at about M3 or free climb at about 20ish? to the ledge and hard 23? through the roof crack. Small, small to medium cams and wires.

Trad Project 15m Unlink route

Topo #4015 - Theory of Negativity Wall

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Route Grade Popularity Style
3 The Draw Thief

Start as for Theory on Negativity. At 2nd bolt veer right and up steep wall.

22 Sport 20m, 11 Unlink route
4 *** Theory of Negativity

Sensational juggy sport climbing up a long and steep orange scoop. Surprisingly easy with big holds the whole way up. Starts aprox 10m left of Lead Zeppelin at impressive orange wall.

20 Sport 22m, 9 Unlink route
5 * The cramps

Orange featured face 2m left of 'Theory of Negativity'. Bouldery start so stick clip the 2nd bolt if 23 is your limit.

23 Sport 22m, 10 Unlink route
6 * On the Wagon

Start 2m left of TC. Directly up the slightly overhung orange wall.

23 Sport 22m Unlink route
7 Grains of Sand

Marked GR

17 Trad Unlink route

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