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Description

This amazing orange wall is visible high through the trees from above the shale ledge track, just before you get to the cable/wire traverse of death leading to Sweet Dreams. It's just like the famous Janicepts Wall at Piddington - a slightly overhung black and orange wall extending left from a stonking corner crack - except Ben Trovato Wall is three times higher and with better rock! All the routes are technical face climbs, usually very sustained and well protected by new bolts (or bomber trad). The rock is very rough in places - bring a good set of finger tips.

Access issues inherited from West Face (Main Area)

There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.

Approach

From the shale ledge track beneath the wall, scramble up the steep vegetated hillside, starting below the big arete (The Swiss Route) and trending left and up metal rungs and fixed ropes. Alternatively you can rap access the crag from above (8 minutes from the carpark) if you know where you are going, have a 100m rope, and enjoy insanely exposed free hanging abseils!

Descent Notes

Most of the newer routes have bolted lower-off anchors. For the multipitch routes which top out, it's a very short walk back to the car. Scramble up the hillside for 50m to small cliffline, walk right 30-80m along the base past a little cave then up a short section of fixed rope to arrive at a tourist track. Walk right along this track for 100m back to the carpark.

Ethic inherited from West Face (Main Area)

Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.

History

Originally known as the Great Red Wall from Rock-Climbs of NSW - S.R.C. Guidebook, 1963. Giles Bradbury added one route and one project in the 80s. The upper pitch of Marxism was done in the 2000s but it wasn't until the 2010s that the majority of the sport routes were established.

Tags

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
19 R The Swiss Route Trad 70m 3

Not many details about this at all. Starts at 'Colosseum Corner', right across chossy break to arete. Up on right side of arete. Pro is spaced and route wanders out onto the right wall a bit. Will be retrobolted (with permission) soon.

Start: The major exposed arete on the right side of Bentrovarto Wall.

2
25 ** Golden Giles Sport 70m 3, 21

Tricky slabbing and sustained face climbing up the orange streak between The Sublime and the Beautiful and San Pornando. Once an intimidating mixed climb on carrots, it's now been retrobolted into a stellar sport climb. Linking P1 and P2 (requires a 70m rope) makes for a stunning pitch of Blueys face climbing.

Start: Starts 4m right of 'Colosseum Corner', slightly down the hill at Belay Bolt.

  1. 20m (24) Tricky start through overlap, then easier climbing up to hard crux just below anchors (8 bolts + anchors).

  2. 40m (25) Thin moves off belay, then up grey and orange streak moving slightly right through small overlap, then back left and up slab to anchors (9 bolts + anchors).

  3. 10m (16) The easy, chossy final pitch up to shared anchors with TSatB or Topout to Tree Belay (1 bolt + anchors).

3

Supa fun, big sporty jaunt. Starts as for 'Colosseum Corner' and traverses across Giles route to big belay ledge left of arete. Up thin face left of the arete. Take about 12 draws and slings and stuff for the belays. A couple of cams on the 1st pitch can be handy. Can either top out (tree belay) or lower off down the route.

  1. 20m (18) Rising to the right, and upto obvious belay ledge.

  2. 35m (22) Launch up the thin wall. The money pitch !

  3. 20m (20) Can be linked from the 2nd pitch. Up over small buldge and continue to final headwall.

FA: Bundy, Frogman & Mr Tonsai, 2009

4
24 * San Pornando Sport 42m, 16

Long sustained face climbing just right of 'Colosseum Corner' on ringbolts. The upper half follows an orange streak. Hidden lower-off anchors are tucked under the rooflet at end of this streak. Re-thread half way down or use double ropes to get off!

Start: Start as for 'Colosseum Corner'.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jason Lammers, 2009

5
19 *** Colosseum Corner Trad 73m 4

The major corner on the right side of the amazing orange wall. A trad classic, but it needs a bit (heaps!) of gardening, especially the top half which has even got major trees in the last 20m. Easily done in 2 pitches by linking pitches 1&2, and pitches 3&4. Or you can rap off after pitch 1. Add style points if you do it in the original fashion - with the rope tied around the waist and a total of only 9 pieces of lead pro.

  1. 20m (19) Technical stemming corner with excellent protection. When the greenery gets too much, traverse left to belay ledge and DRB belay (shared with Ben Trovato).

  2. 13m (17) Up shale corner, step right onto arete and up front of juggy detached pillar to large belay ledge. (Memorial Direct variant 32m (~21). The obvious direct continuation of the 1st pitch corner. Instead of traversing left at greenery, simply plug in a nest of gear and launch up the corner and face options that deliver you eventually at some good gear and then up to the large belay ledge atop the original pitch 2).

  3. 33m (19) Bridge and jam the corner. The original belay was a "bolt anchor 15' diagonally to right", but the tree is actually a lovely little belay spot.

  4. 12m Corner to top, good tree belay.

FA: John Ewbank & John Davis, 14th Jan

FA: Zac, Sophie & Direct 1st pitch, 2013

6
20 ** Ben Trovato / Bentrovarto Mixed 160m 7, 3

"Cleverly found" indeed. Named "Bentrovarto" in guidebooks for many decades. However, Bryden says the name was contributed by his German climbing partner on the day, and agrees that using the correct Italian spelling is apt. A grand girdle adventure that spends as much time going across as it does going up! Originally done by starting up Colosseum Corner, it is 18 this way. But ever since the FA most people have climbed the crack 3m L of CC as the first pitch, which is 20. The rest of the route is many grades easier.

  1. 20m (20) A great sustained pitch - well worth doing in it's own right to the first rap anchor. The steep thin crack eats medium wires (a triple set isn't excessive). Long thought to be a whopping sandbag at grade 18, but this was because the FA actually climbed p1 of Colosseum Corner. The FA of this pitch is unknown.

  2. 27m (8) Traverse left and slightly up along the ramp the whole way, passing the RB anchors of 'Guillotine', 'Marxism', "Vespasian's Wall", miscellaneous ancient carrots, bomber trad, and at least one big loose block. Eventually, belay at Kizashi's DRBs, just before the ramp becomes an almost vertical corner.

  3. 13m (14) Steep leftwards corner/ramp to another bolt belay.

  4. 31m (-) To ledge, traverse left to nose and up to cave and old bolt belay.

  5. 16m (-) Left to chimney, across to bolt belay.

  6. 33m (-) Back right across gully onto right wall. Bulge to ledge, then left to tree.

  7. 13m (-) Back of horrible chimney gully and up, or more pleasantly up the right wall of gully.

FA: Bryden Allen & P Messenbergh, 9th May

7
24 *** Guillotine Sport 48m 2, 23

The first pitch is perhaps the best easy sport route on the wall and the second pitch is even better!! Link them together and you have one of the best pitches at the grade in the Blueys (needs a 70m+ rope, 23 draws, and a re-thread at the first belay when lowering off). The route name comes from the frightening flake that fell off when Neil was bolting the first pitch - which is now embedded in the ground at the base. Historically this route has a murky past - the first pitch had a couple of poorly placed rings in already, that Neil pulled out with his fingers (!), whilst the 2nd pitch had been half bolted with carrots by Giles Bradbury in the 90s but then abandoned.

Starts 4m left of 'Ben Trovato' at small tree.

  1. 20m (22) Stem off tree for a few moves, then a bouldery pull onto the flake to reach better holds. Motor up lovely orange rock to anchor on small ledge. The start has been done without the tree at 23/4, but this makes the pitch less classic.

  2. 28m (24) 'Fantastic' climbing. Loads of bolts. Pumper crux at the top and superb rock. WATCH YOUR ROPE LENGTH when lowering back to the belay.

FA: P1 Neil Monteith & P2 Chris Coghill, 2010

8
28 *** Marxism Sport 75m 2, 22

Two pitches of wonderful wall climbing. First pitch is a good single pitch sport route with lower-off, 2nd pitch is a much bigger affair.

Start at the 2nd line of rings left of Ben Trovato's p1 crack, starting up tree.

  1. 25m (23) One of the best pitches on the wall. Intricate face climbing finding a line of weakness amongst blankness. Clamber up tree for a few metres to clip high RB and horizontal break. Launch onto the wall and weave upwards to triple bolt lower-off.

  2. 50m (28) 37m of climbing, plus a scramble back to a tree. Really awesome climbing on thin edges with a long vertical crux move to undercling a shallow flake! The rings aren't recessed but otherwise seem ok (as at 2015). There is no loweroff, so either top out and belay off a tree, or lower off a single ring. BEWARE the last ring is in very hollow rock (and its 32m back to the belay).

FA: Phil Sage (pitch 2), 2002

FA: Neil Monteith (pitch 1), 2010

9

One of the best pitches on the wall. Intricate face climbing finding a line of weakness amongst blankness. Clamber up tree for a few metres to clip high RB and horizontal break. Launch onto the wall and weave upwards to triple bolt lower-off.

FFA: Neil Monteith, 2010

10
28 ** Fashionista Sport 30m, 18

Starts as for Marxism (pitch 2), then trends a bit left! Weaves around quite a bit, eventually finishing at DRB 6m below the top.

FA: Steve Grkovic

11
25 *** Vespasian's Wall Sport 58m 2, 20

Ewbank's original aid line turns out to be an absolute cracker of a free route. A very impressive orange face, originally established as a 2 pitch aid route via a bolt ladder up the guts of the wall to the top by John Ewbank in 1964. Mentioned in old guidebooks (including Ewbank's) as "Vespian's Wall" - but was surely meant to be named after the Roman Emperor who built the Colosseum. Soon after bolting it, Ewbank's anti-bolt sentiment kicked in and he chopped the bolts. Nearly half a century later, this free version lets you marvel at the relics. Start 5m left of 'Marxism'.

  1. 25m (25) Possibly the best single pitch on Bentrovarto wall. Tiny hanging arête to start then right and up amazing sustained wall with crux near the top. Clip the first bolt with a stick, or off a kneebar in the break. Ignore the manky chain at 20m and continue another 5m to a new anchor.

  2. 33m (-) Project, please stay off. Steps right to the flake/corner left of the guano, then takes the orange streak above the guano.

FA: John Ewbank & Bob Smith @ 15 M.3, 1964

FFA: Neil Monteith (p1), 2011

12

25m (25) Possibly the best single pitch on Bentrovarto wall. Tiny hanging arête to start then right and up amazing sustained wall with crux near the top. Clip the first bolt with a stick, or off a kneebar in the break. Once p2 is open, p1 will be a 33m pitch incorporating an extra 8m of easy ground up left from the current anchor (1 extra bolt).

FFA: Neil Monteith, 2011

13
24 ** The Young Violent Pony Sport 25m, 10

Another sustained outing up a slightly overhung wall. Up for 8 bolts then traverse hard left across wall to finish up 'Kizashi' to it's lower anchor.

Starts 15m left of 'Colosseum Corner' at line of leftward leading rings.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2009

14
28 * The Old Sleepy Horse Sport 26m

The direct finish to The Young Violent Pony past at least three more bolts and some very thin moves. Finishes on small ledge and lower-off.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2009

FA: Steve Grokovic, 2014

15
25 *** Kizashi Sport 20m, 12

Roughly translates as "something great is coming". Thin seam crack that gets harder the higher you go. Never fear, there are no jams - it's all face moves and chicken wing gastos. Starts on the right edge of small chossy cavelet in the middle of 'Ben Trovato' Wall. Currently finishes at first set of double U bolts 3/4 of the way up the wall (extension is 29).

FA: Neil Monteith, 2009

16
29 *** Kizashi Extension Sport 27m

Ignore the first set of anchors and keep on climbing up the ever thinning seam crack that eventually fades to crimps. Mega. (There is also a couple of bolts above the extension on the juggy grey slab above to reach the main ledge - but no pitch above these.)

Set by Neil Monteith, 2009

FA: Steve Grkovic, 2014

17
26 *** Kizmastication (linkup) Sport 27m, 13

Links the start of 'Kizashi' into the finish of Sadomastication at about the 8th bolt. Very sustained steep wall climbing with a punchy reachy finish. Watch your rope length for the lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2009

18
26 *** Sadomastication Sport 72m 3

Another direct multipitch straight up the middle of the wall. The first pitch is one of the best harder routes at Sublime Point, featuring sustained thin crimping. Starts at FH on left edge of little overlap at ground level.

  1. 27m (26) Very sustained face climbing that took Neil several years to do. The red and black face with shallow pockets and flakes.

  2. 20m (22) This pitch is best done by moving the belay 10m left to 'Microdermabrasia', or doing a runout climb up to join the pitch at the third bolt. Out right, up a bit then back left to belay on comfy ledge. Contrived in the middle.

  3. 25m (-) This pitch is still a project. Feel free to do it! Looks 25ish.

FA: Neil Monteith & Will Monks, 2012

19
23 ** Reigning Steel Sport 17m, 7

Shorter and less sustained than other routes on this section of wall. Step left off block and up face between Sadomastication and Microdermabrasia to premature low anchors. The bolted extension to the ledge is grade 25.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jason Lammers, 2012

20
26 ** Reigning Steel Extension Sport 27m, 13

The epic 5 bolt extension past the lower anchor to finish up Sadomastication for last 2m. A great mix of crimps and sidepulls with an ever increasing pump to the very end. Hard 25 or easy 26.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2014

21
28 Zoncolan Sport 25m

Squeezed in. Up Reigning Steel for 3 bolts then left up the sustained crimpy wall.

FA: Steve Grkovic, 2014

22
25 ** Microdermabrasia Sport 85m 3

One of the more obvious 'lines' on this wall. Three sustained pitches up the guts of the left side of the wall with comfy belay ledges and phat ringbolts. Pitch 1 can be done alone as a great single pitch 23 if you want to lower off.

  1. 30m (23) Straight up to the base of the right facing and left leading big flake. Follow this to final tricky layback finish. Best to extend bolts on the right of the flake (60cm+ draws), so that your rope isn't pulled in over the sharp-ish edge of the flake. Belay on big ledge at giant staple bolt. You can lower from here.

  2. 25m (25) Balancy start then blast straight up the gorgeous orange wall above with final death by crimp section. Belay on ledge at double rings.

  3. 30m (24) Pumpy conclusion up the steep wall and corner above with a baffling reachy thin section down low. Either lower off the double rings just below the top or dirty mantle out to belay from a tree.

FA: Neil Monteith (p1, p3), Lucy Ellis (p2) & Adam Demmert, 2009

23
25 ** Gavia Sport 20m

Sustained thin face left of the Microdermabrasia flake with a left trend. At about 15m it meets the Exile pitch 2 traverse. From here go up via Exile for a couple of moves then take the left trending ringbolts finishing at double double lower-off (this is not a typo!). A more logical (and easier) finish is via Exile.

FA: Steve Grkovic & Megan Turnbull, 2014

24
29 * Stelvio Sport 25m

RBs just right of Exile. Crosses Exile up high.

FA: Steve Grkovic, 2014

25
23 ** Exile Sport 85m 5

A sustained multi-pitch up the far left end of the wall, just before the fixed rope scramble. All pitches are well bolted, but higher up there is some loose rock.

  1. 20m (22) The holds get smaller the higher you get. At the last bolt drop down and bail left onto arete for a move before going up and right again.

  2. 15m (23) Whacky traverse right on bizarre scoops for a several bolts to meet up with Microdermabrasia and then up (crux) to easy ground and belay on small ledge. This can be linked into pitch 1.

  3. 25m (22) Through funny upside down corners (past fixd sling) and then follow the bolts and groovy features to belay ledge.

  4. 20m (22) Stellar orange rock up thin face to the belay.

  5. 5m (18) Optional short pitch to top out if required. Move up and left of final anchors past 2 bolts to big tree belay.

Set by Jason Lammers, 2012

FA: Jason Lammers (pitches 1, 4), Neil Monteith (pitches 2 & 3), 2012

The next three routes start BELOW the main Bentrovarto wall, on the main path to Sweet Dreams just before the metal cable traverse. The bolted arete is obvious, and the other two trad routes start just right of this.

26
17 * Electra Trad 130m 5

Some good pitches if the greenery gets cleared.

Start: This route actually starts back down on the access track to 'Sweet Dreams' (20m below 'Ben Trovato' Wall). Starts about 10m right of the cable traverse to 'Sweet Dreams' at vegetated corner.

  1. 30m (-) Green corner of sorts to ledge and tree. You can skip this pitch by walking up to the base of 'Ben Trovato' Wall and walking L along the wide ledge to the crack.

  2. 40m (17) Crack splitting the left side of 'Ben Trovato' Wall, to chimney. Over roof, right onto wall, up through trees then into bottom of gully.

  3. 33m (-) 'Gully' to crusty bolt belay on left.

  4. 13m (-) Right and up to dead tree.

  5. 16m (-) 'Gully' as for 'Ben Trovato'.

27
14 Oedipus Trad 190m 6

Wanders all over the place!

  1. 30m (-) As for pitch 1 of 'Electra'

  2. 33m (-) Walk left along ledge to belay below corner.

  3. 33m (14) Straight up corner/groove, bolt runner at 25' , bolt anchor at ledge.

  4. 13m (-) Traverse right across wall, up and right to block.

  5. 23m (-) Keep traversing right across wall, down and around nose to dead tree.

  6. 62m (-) Finish up last 3 pitches of Bentrovarto or 'Electra'

FA: Bryden Allen & Martin Hader, 1964

28
23 ** Milestone Arete Sport 14m, 7

Right facing arête above the right end of the cable traverse to Sweet Dreams (directly below Cloudheat - see topo) Climb the left side of arete, then switch to right side for techy finish.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

For the next routes scramble up the 5m corner with short fixed rope on the far left end of Bentrovarto Wall (left of Exile) to higher ledge with a couple of small trees. Take care wandering around on this narrow ledge - a slip is fatal. Also be careful lowering people off these routes - the left routes are 30m high - with a 100m drop underneath them!

29
26 ** The Road Not Taken Sport 18m, 8

Start up the line of bolts just above the access rope to gain the upper ledge at the left hand side of Bentrovato Wall at the first belay bolt. Clip the starting bolt from higher up on the ledge further to the left. Climb the corner-feature and the black shield of rock using the arete as necessary during the crux section. Try and stay off Electra/out of the Gully as much as possible.

FA: Paul Thomson, 2014

30
22 Cloudheat Sport 12m, 5

A good little warm-up - but a little sharp. In the middle of the orange wall is a line of scoops that doesn't quite make it to the ground. Start about 4m to the left of these scoops. Boulder the footless start (and add a few grades) or just stand on the belay bolt to make the first move. Now trend right to the scoops and up them to lower-off. There is also an open project extension equipped by Chris Coghill.

Set by Chris Coghill, 2009

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

31
24 ** Climbalot Sport 27m, 11

Pumpy and long. Starts 3m right of the leaning steep corner on the terrace, at low FH for belay. Nice orange wall for 3 RBs to awkward dyno move, then a couple of long moves until a move left into the corner for a couple of metres. Finish right out under bulge and up orange wall.

FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2014

32
25 * Weakend Worrier Sport 30m, 12

Steep exposed climbing. Starts off far left end of ledge - about 5m left of Cloudstreet. Across jugs to reach corner, up this for a few moves then over bulge and face left of arete. Finish up exposed orange face above with lots of reachy horizontal pulls

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011