Ben Trovato Wall Mostly sport climbing32 routes in sector
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This amazing orange wall is visible high through the trees from above the shale ledge track, just before you get to the cable/wire traverse of death leading to Sweet Dreams. It's just like the famous Janicepts Wall at Piddington - a slightly overhung black and orange wall extending left from a stonking corner crack - except Ben Trovato Wall is three times higher and with better rock! All the routes are technical face climbs, usually very sustained and well protected by new bolts (or bomber trad). The rock is very rough in places - bring a good set of finger tips.
Access issues inherited from West Face (Main Area)
There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.
From the shale ledge track beneath the wall, scramble up the steep vegetated hillside, starting below the big arete (The Swiss Route) and trending left and up metal rungs and fixed ropes. Alternatively you can rap access the crag from above (8 minutes from the carpark) if you know where you are going, have a 100m rope, and enjoy insanely exposed free hanging abseils!
Most of the newer routes have bolted lower-off anchors. For the multipitch routes which top out, it's a very short walk back to the car. Scramble up the hillside for 50m to small cliffline, walk right 30-80m along the base past a little cave then up a short section of fixed rope to arrive at a tourist track. Walk right along this track for 100m back to the carpark.
Ethic inherited from West Face (Main Area)
Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.
Originally known as the Great Red Wall from Rock-Climbs of NSW - S.R.C. Guidebook, 1963. Giles Bradbury added one route and one project in the 80s. The upper pitch of Marxism was done in the 2000s but it wasn't until the 2010s that the majority of the sport routes were established.
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Not many details about this at all. Starts at 'Colosseum Corner', right across chossy break to arete. Up on right side of arete. Pro is spaced and route wanders out onto the right wall a bit. Will be retrobolted (with permission) soon.
Start: The major exposed arete on the right side of Bentrovarto Wall.
Tricky slabbing and sustained face climbing up the orange streak between The Sublime and the Beautiful and San Pornando. Once an intimidating mixed climb on carrots, it's now been retrobolted into a stellar sport climb. Linking P1 and P2 (requires a 70m rope) makes for a stunning pitch of Blueys face climbing.
Start: Starts 4m right of 'Colosseum Corner', slightly down the hill at Belay Bolt.
20m (24) Tricky start through overlap, then easier climbing up to hard crux just below anchors (8 bolts + anchors).
40m (25) Thin moves off belay, then up grey and orange streak moving slightly right through small overlap, then back left and up slab to anchors (9 bolts + anchors).
10m (16) The easy, chossy final pitch up to shared anchors with TSatB or Topout to Tree Belay (1 bolt + anchors).
Supa fun, big sporty jaunt. Starts as for 'Colosseum Corner' and traverses across Giles route to big belay ledge left of arete. Up thin face left of the arete. Take about 12 draws and slings and stuff for the belays. A couple of cams on the 1st pitch can be handy. Can either top out (tree belay) or lower off down the route.
20m (18) Rising to the right, and upto obvious belay ledge.
35m (22) Launch up the thin wall. The money pitch !
20m (20) Can be linked from the 2nd pitch. Up over small buldge and continue to final headwall.
FA: Bundy, Frogman & Mr Tonsai, 2009
Long sustained face climbing just right of 'Colosseum Corner' on ringbolts. The upper half follows an orange streak. Hidden lower-off anchors are tucked under the rooflet at end of this streak. Re-thread half way down or use double ropes to get off!
Start: Start as for 'Colosseum Corner'.
FA: Neil Monteith & Jason Lammers, 2009
The major corner on the right side of the amazing orange wall. A trad classic, but it needs a bit (heaps!) of gardening, especially the top half which has even got major trees in the last 20m. Easily done in 2 pitches by linking pitches 1&2, and pitches 3&4. Or you can rap off after pitch 1. Add style points if you do it in the original fashion - with the rope tied around the waist and a total of only 9 pieces of lead pro.
20m (19) Technical stemming corner with excellent protection. When the greenery gets too much, traverse left to belay ledge and DRB belay (shared with Ben Trovato).
13m (17) Up shale corner, step right onto arete and up front of juggy detached pillar to large belay ledge. (Memorial Direct variant 32m (~21). The obvious direct continuation of the 1st pitch corner. Instead of traversing left at greenery, simply plug in a nest of gear and launch up the corner and face options that deliver you eventually at some good gear and then up to the large belay ledge atop the original pitch 2).
33m (19) Bridge and jam the corner. The original belay was a "bolt anchor 15' diagonally to right", but the tree is actually a lovely little belay spot.
12m Corner to top, good tree belay.
FA: John Ewbank & John Davis, 14th Jan
FA: Zac, Sophie & Direct 1st pitch, 2013
"Cleverly found" indeed. Named "Bentrovarto" in guidebooks for many decades. However, Bryden says the name was contributed by his German climbing partner on the day, and agrees that using the correct Italian spelling is apt. A grand girdle adventure that spends as much time going across as it does going up! Originally done by starting up Colosseum Corner, it is 18 this way. But ever since the FA most people have climbed the crack 3m L of CC as the first pitch, which is 20. The rest of the route is many grades easier.
20m (20) A great sustained pitch - well worth doing in it's own right to the first rap anchor. The steep thin crack eats medium wires (a triple set isn't excessive). Long thought to be a whopping sandbag at grade 18, but this was because the FA actually climbed p1 of Colosseum Corner. The FA of this pitch is unknown.
27m (8) Traverse left and slightly up along the ramp the whole way, passing the RB anchors of 'Guillotine', 'Marxism', "Vespasian's Wall", miscellaneous ancient carrots, bomber trad, and at least one big loose block. Eventually, belay at Kizashi's DRBs, just before the ramp becomes an almost vertical corner.
13m (14) Steep leftwards corner/ramp to another bolt belay.
31m (-) To ledge, traverse left to nose and up to cave and old bolt belay.
16m (-) Left to chimney, across to bolt belay.
33m (-) Back right across gully onto right wall. Bulge to ledge, then left to tree.
13m (-) Back of horrible chimney gully and up, or more pleasantly up the right wall of gully.
FA: Bryden Allen & P Messenbergh, 9th May
The first pitch is perhaps the best easy sport route on the wall and the second pitch is even better!! Link them together and you have one of the best pitches at the grade in the Blueys (needs a 70m+ rope, 23 draws, and a re-thread at the first belay when lowering off). The route name comes from the frightening flake that fell off when Neil was bolting the first pitch - which is now embedded in the ground at the base. Historically this route has a murky past - the first pitch had a couple of poorly placed rings in already, that Neil pulled out with his fingers (!), whilst the 2nd pitch had been half bolted with carrots by Giles Bradbury in the 90s but then abandoned.
Starts 4m left of 'Ben Trovato' at small tree.
20m (22) Stem off tree for a few moves, then a bouldery pull onto the flake to reach better holds. Motor up lovely orange rock to anchor on small ledge. The start has been done without the tree at 23/4, but this makes the pitch less classic.
28m (24) 'Fantastic' climbing. Loads of bolts. Pumper crux at the top and superb rock. WATCH YOUR ROPE LENGTH when lowering back to the belay.
FA: P1 Neil Monteith & P2 Chris Coghill, 2010
Two pitches of wonderful wall climbing. First pitch is a good single pitch sport route with lower-off, 2nd pitch is a much bigger affair.
Start at the 2nd line of rings left of Ben Trovato's p1 crack, starting up tree.
25m (23) One of the best pitches on the wall. Intricate face climbing finding a line of weakness amongst blankness. Clamber up tree for a few metres to clip high RB and horizontal break. Launch onto the wall and weave upwards to triple bolt lower-off.
50m (28) 37m of climbing, plus a scramble back to a tree. Really awesome climbing on thin edges with a long vertical crux move to undercling a shallow flake! The rings aren't recessed but otherwise seem ok (as at 2015). There is no loweroff, so either top out and belay off a tree, or lower off a single ring. BEWARE the last ring is in very hollow rock (and its 32m back to the belay).
FA: Phil Sage (pitch 2), 2002
FA: Neil Monteith (pitch 1), 2010
One of the best pitches on the wall. Intricate face climbing finding a line of weakness amongst blankness. Clamber up tree for a few metres to clip high RB and horizontal break. Launch onto the wall and weave upwards to triple bolt lower-off.
FFA: Neil Monteith, 2010
Starts as for Marxism (pitch 2), then trends a bit left! Weaves around quite a bit, eventually finishing at DRB 6m below the top.
FA: Steve Grkovic
Ewbank's original aid line turns out to be an absolute cracker of a free route. A very impressive orange face, originally established as a 2 pitch aid route via a bolt ladder up the guts of the wall to the top by John Ewbank in 1964. Mentioned in old guidebooks (including Ewbank's) as "Vespian's Wall" - but was surely meant to be named after the Roman Emperor who built the Colosseum. Soon after bolting it, Ewbank's anti-bolt sentiment kicked in and he chopped the bolts. Nearly half a century later, this free version lets you marvel at the relics. Start 5m left of 'Marxism'.
25m (25) Possibly the best single pitch on Bentrovarto wall. Tiny hanging arête to start then right and up amazing sustained wall with crux near the top. Clip the first bolt with a stick, or off a kneebar in the break. Ignore the manky chain at 20m and continue another 5m to a new anchor.
33m (-) Project, please stay off. Steps right to the flake/corner left of the guano, then takes the orange streak above the guano.
FA: John Ewbank & Bob Smith @ 15 M.3, 1964
FFA: Neil Monteith (p1), 2011
25m (25) Possibly the best single pitch on Bentrovarto wall. Tiny hanging arête to start then right and up amazing sustained wall with crux near the top. Clip the first bolt with a stick, or off a kneebar in the break. Once p2 is open, p1 will be a 33m pitch incorporating an extra 8m of easy ground up left from the current anchor (1 extra bolt).
FFA: Neil Monteith, 2011
The direct finish to The Young Violent Pony past at least three more bolts and some very thin moves. Finishes on small ledge and lower-off.
Set by Neil Monteith, 2009
FA: Steve Grokovic, 2014
Roughly translates as "something great is coming". Thin seam crack that gets harder the higher you go. Never fear, there are no jams - it's all face moves and chicken wing gastos. Starts on the right edge of small chossy cavelet in the middle of 'Ben Trovato' Wall. Currently finishes at first set of double U bolts 3/4 of the way up the wall (extension is 29).
FA: Neil Monteith, 2009
Ignore the first set of anchors and keep on climbing up the ever thinning seam crack that eventually fades to crimps. Mega. (There is also a couple of bolts above the extension on the juggy grey slab above to reach the main ledge - but no pitch above these.)
Set by Neil Monteith, 2009
FA: Steve Grkovic, 2014
Another direct multipitch straight up the middle of the wall. The first pitch is one of the best harder routes at Sublime Point, featuring sustained thin crimping. Starts at FH on left edge of little overlap at ground level.
27m (26) Very sustained face climbing that took Neil several years to do. The red and black face with shallow pockets and flakes.
20m (22) This pitch is best done by moving the belay 10m left to 'Microdermabrasia', or doing a runout climb up to join the pitch at the third bolt. Out right, up a bit then back left to belay on comfy ledge. Contrived in the middle.
25m (-) This pitch is still a project. Feel free to do it! Looks 25ish.
FA: Neil Monteith & Will Monks, 2012
The epic 5 bolt extension past the lower anchor to finish up Sadomastication for last 2m. A great mix of crimps and sidepulls with an ever increasing pump to the very end. Hard 25 or easy 26.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2014
Squeezed in. Up Reigning Steel for 3 bolts then left up the sustained crimpy wall.
FA: Steve Grkovic, 2014
One of the more obvious 'lines' on this wall. Three sustained pitches up the guts of the left side of the wall with comfy belay ledges and phat ringbolts. Pitch 1 can be done alone as a great single pitch 23 if you want to lower off.
30m (23) Straight up to the base of the right facing and left leading big flake. Follow this to final tricky layback finish. Best to extend bolts on the right of the flake (60cm+ draws), so that your rope isn't pulled in over the sharp-ish edge of the flake. Belay on big ledge at giant staple bolt. You can lower from here.
25m (25) Balancy start then blast straight up the gorgeous orange wall above with final death by crimp section. Belay on ledge at double rings.
30m (24) Pumpy conclusion up the steep wall and corner above with a baffling reachy thin section down low. Either lower off the double rings just below the top or dirty mantle out to belay from a tree.
FA: Neil Monteith (p1, p3), Lucy Ellis (p2) & Adam Demmert, 2009
Sustained thin face left of the Microdermabrasia flake with a left trend. At about 15m it meets the Exile pitch 2 traverse. From here go up via Exile for a couple of moves then take the left trending ringbolts finishing at double double lower-off (this is not a typo!). A more logical (and easier) finish is via Exile.
FA: Steve Grkovic & Megan Turnbull, 2014
A sustained multi-pitch up the far left end of the wall, just before the fixed rope scramble. All pitches are well bolted, but higher up there is some loose rock.
20m (22) The holds get smaller the higher you get. At the last bolt drop down and bail left onto arete for a move before going up and right again.
15m (23) Whacky traverse right on bizarre scoops for a several bolts to meet up with Microdermabrasia and then up (crux) to easy ground and belay on small ledge. This can be linked into pitch 1.
25m (22) Through funny upside down corners (past fixd sling) and then follow the bolts and groovy features to belay ledge.
20m (22) Stellar orange rock up thin face to the belay.
5m (18) Optional short pitch to top out if required. Move up and left of final anchors past 2 bolts to big tree belay.
Set by Jason Lammers, 2012
FA: Jason Lammers (pitches 1, 4), Neil Monteith (pitches 2 & 3), 2012