Bentrovarto Wall Mostly sport climbing29 routes in sector
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This amazing orange wall is visible high through the trees from above the shale ledge track, just before you get to the cable/wire traverse of death leading to Sweet Dreams. It's just like the famous Janicepts Wall at Piddington - a slightly overhung black and orange wall extending left from a stonking corner crack - except Ben Trovato Wall is three times higher and with better rock! All the routes are technical face climbs, usually very sustained and well protected by new bolts (or bomber trad). The rock is very rough in places - bring a good set of finger tips.
Access issues inherited from West Face
There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.
From the shale ledge track beneath the wall, scramble up the steep vegetated hillside, starting below the big arete (The Swiss Route) and trending left and up metal rungs and fixed ropes. Alternatively you can rap access the crag from above (8 minutes from the carpark) if you know where you are going, have a 100m rope, and enjoy insanely exposed free hanging abseils!
Most of the newer routes have bolted lower-off anchors. For the multipitch rutes topout, scramble up the hillside for 50m to small cliffline, walk right along the base past a little cave then up a short section of fixed rope to arrive at a tourist track. Walk right along this track back to carpark.
Ethic inherited from West Face
Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there has been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbign venue.
Originally known as the Great Red Wall from Rock-Climbs of NSW - S.R.C. Guidebook, 1963. Giles Bradbury added one route and one project in the 80s. The upper pitch of Marxism was done in the 2000s but it wasn't until the 2010s that the majority of the sport routes were established.
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