Bentrovarto Wall Mostly sport climbing29 routes in sector
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This amazing orange wall is visible high through the trees from above the shale ledge track, just before you get to the cable/wire traverse of death leading to Sweet Dreams. It's just like the famous Janicepts Wall at Piddington - a slightly overhung black and orange wall extending left from a stonking corner crack - except Ben Trovato Wall is three times higher and with better rock! All the routes are technical face climbs, usually very sustained and well protected by new bolts (or bomber trad). The rock is very rough in places - bring a good set of finger tips.
Access issues inherited from West Face
There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.
From the shale ledge track beneath the wall, scramble up the steep vegetated hillside, starting below the big arete (The Swiss Route) and trending left and up metal rungs and fixed ropes. Alternatively you can rap access the crag from above (8 minutes from the carpark) if you know where you are going, have a 100m rope, and enjoy insanely exposed free hanging abseils!
Most of the newer routes have bolted lower-off anchors. For the multipitch rutes topout, scramble up the hillside for 50m to small cliffline, walk right along the base past a little cave then up a short section of fixed rope to arrive at a tourist track. Walk right along this track back to carpark.
Ethic inherited from West Face
Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there has been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbign venue.
Originally known as the Great Red Wall from Rock-Climbs of NSW - S.R.C. Guidebook, 1963. Giles Bradbury added one route and one project in the 80s. The upper pitch of Marxism was done in the 2000s but it wasn't until the 2010s that the majority of the sport routes were established.
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Not many details about this at all. Starts at 'Colosseum Corner', right across chossy break to arete. Up on right side of arete. Pro is spaced and route wanders out onto the right wall a bit. Will be retrobolted (with permission) soon.
Start: The major exposed arete on the right side of Bentrovarto Wall.
Long sustained face climbing just right of 'Colosseum Corner' on ringbolts. The upper half follows an orange streak. Hidden lower-off anchors are tucked under the rooflet at end of this streak. Re-thread half way down or use double ropes to get off!
Start: Start as for 'Colosseum Corner'.
FA: Neil Monteith & Jason Lammers, 2009
Big clean wall following the right orange stripe following carrots. Some trad gear occasionally for the EZ sections - but it's mostly bolts. Classic.
Start: Starts 4m right of 'Colosseum Corner'.
20m (24) Tricky start start over overlap then easier dark wall to small ledge and rap chains.
40m (25) Blast straight up the awesome orange streak, thru small overlap to EZ topout finish. Awesome Blueys climbing..
15m (16) The easy final pitch up to shared anchors with S&B.
Supa fun, big sporty jaunt. Starts as for 'Colosseum Corner' and traverses across Giles route to big belay ledge left of arete. Up thin face left of the arete. Take about 12 draws and slings and stuff for the belays. A couple of cams on the 1st pitch can be handy. Can either top out (tree belay) or lower off down the route.
20m (18) Rising to the right, and upto obvious belay ledge.
35m (22) Launch up the thin wall. The money pitch !
20m (20) Can be linked from the 2nd pitch. Up over small buldge and continue to final headwall.
FA: Bundy, Frogman, Mr Tonsai, 2009
The major corner on the right side of the amazing orange wall. A trad classic, but it needs a bit (heaps!) of gardening, especially the top half. There is a rap anchor at the end of pitch 1. Add style points if you do it in the original fashion - with the rope tied around the waist and a total of only 9 pieces of lead pro.
20m (19) Technical stemming corner with excellent protection. When the greenery gets too much, traverse left to belay ledge and bolt belay (shared with Bentrovarto).
13m (17) Up shale corner, step right onto arete and up front of juggy detached pillar to large belay ledge. Can be linked with pitch 1.
1.a. 32m (~21) Memorial Direct variant - Obvious direct continuation of 1st pitch corner. Instead of traversing left at greenery, simply plug in a nest of gear and launch up the corner and face options that deliver you eventually at some good gear and then up to the large belay ledge as above.
40m (19) A long corner which would be amazing if it was clean, but unfortunately it gets increasingly vegetated, it's even got major trees in the last 20m.
(10m)? That tree is actually a very lovely little belay spot, classic in fact on a sunny day or for a late evening joint massage, though the original belay was actually further out on the face apparently?? Top out to good tree belay. Walk 20m straight up hill, up a short section of fixed rope, and 20m more to find the good walking trail. Turn right on this and follow it back to the tourist lookout. Alternatively rap back down one of the sport lines.
FA: John Ewbank, John Davis, 1965
FA: Zac and Sophie, Direct 1st pitch, 2013
Originally done by starting up Collosseum corner, it is 18 this way. But ever since the FA most people have climbed the crack 3m L of CC as the first pitch, which is 20. The rest of the route is several grades easier.
FA: Bryden Allen, P Messenbergh, 9th May
The first pitch is perhaps the best easy sport route on the wall and the second pitch is even better!! Link them together and you have one of the best pitches at the grade in the Bluies. You will need a 70m rope and 23 draws (some long), and re-thread at the first belay when lowering off. The route name comes from the frightening flake that fell off when Neil was bolting the first pitch - which is now embedded in the ground at the base. Historically this route has a murky past - the first pitch had a couple of poorly placed rings in already, that Neil pulled out with his fingers (!), whilst the 2nd pitch had been half bolted with carrots by Giles Bradbury in the 90s but then abandoned.
Starts 4m left of 'Ben Trovato' at small tree.
20m (22) Stem off tree for a few moves, then a bouldery pull onto the flake to reach better holds. Motor up lovely orange rock to anchor on small ledge. The start can been done without the tree at 23/4, but this makes the pitch less classic.
28m (24) 'Fantastic' climbing. Loads of bolts. Pumper crux at the top and superb rock. WATCH YOUR ROPE LENGTH when lowering back to the belay.
FA: P1 Neil Monteith, P2 Chris Coghill, 2010
Two pitches of wonderful wall climbing. First pitch is a good single pitch sport route with lower-off, 2nd pitch is a much bigger affair - a 50m wall of sustained edges and slopers, in dire need of rebolting.
Start at the 2nd line of rings left of Ben Trovato's p1 crack, starting up tree.
25m (23) One of the best pitches on the wall. Intricate face climbing finding a line of weakness amongst blankness. Clamber up tree for a few metres to clip high RB and horizontal break. Launch onto the wall and weave upwards to triple bolt lower-off.
50m (28) Really awesome climbing on thin edges with a long vertical crux move to undercling a shallow flake! The 10th bolt has been replaced on this pitch (which presumably tells you where the crux is), but the rest are unrecessed rings and potentially bad. There is no loweroffs, so you either have to top out and belay off a tree, or take your chances lowering off a single ring.
FA: Phil Sage (pitch 1), 2002
FA: Neil Monteith (pitch 1), 2010
A very impressive orange face, originally established as a 2 pitch aid route via a bolt ladder up the guts of the wall to the top by John Ewbank in 1964. Mentioned in old guidebooks (including Ewbanks) as "Vespian's Wall" - but was surely meant to be named after the Roman Emperor who built the Colosseum. Soon after bolting it Ewbank's anti-bolt sentiment kicked in and he chopped the bolts. Nearly half a century later, this free version lets you marvel at the relics. Start 5m left of 'Marxism'.
25m (25) Possibly the best single pitch on Bentrovarto wall. Tiny hanging arête to start then right and up amazing sustained wall with crux near the top. Clip the first bolt with a stick, or off a kneebar in the break. Once p2 is open, p1 will be a 33m pitch incorporating an extra 8m of easy ground up left from the current anchor (1 extra bolt).
33m (-) Project - Steps right to the flake/corner left of the guano, then takes the orange streak above the guano. The starting DRB and 4th RB are positioned to re-use old holes drilled by persons unknown (and other holes were patched); they also left 4 or 5 UB holes for ~12m above the belay to a blank dead end, 2-4m left of this pitch. A 70m rope is enough to lower off p2, pull rope, then rap down p1. A 60m might even stretch -
FA: John Ewbank, Bob Smith @ 15 M.3, 1964
FFA: Neil Monteith (p1), 2011
Another sustained outing up a slightly overhung wall. Up for 8 bolts then traverse hard left across wall to finish up 'Kizashi' to it's lower anchor. The bolted direct extension up the shallow little pockets will be 'ard and is an open project.
Starts 15m left of 'Colosseum Corner' at line of leftward leading rings.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2009
The direct finish to The Young Violent Pony past at least three more bolts and some very thin moves. Finishes on small ledge and lower-off.
Set by Neil Monteith, 2009
FA: Steve Grokovic, 2014
Roughly translates as "something great is coming". Thin seam crack that gets harder the higher you go. Never fear, there are no jams - it's all face moves and chicken wing gastos. Starts on the right edge of small chossy cavelet in the middle of 'Ben Trovato' Wall. Currently finishes at first set of double U bolts 3/4 of the way up the wall, the 3 bolt extension to the belay ledge is a open project (28+?). There is also a couple of bolts above the extension on the juggy grey slab above to reach the main ledge - but no pitch above these.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2009
Ignore the first set of anchors and keep on climbing up the ever thinning seam crack that eventually fades to crimps. Mega.
Set by Neil Monteith, 2009
FA: Steve Grkovic, 2014
Another direct multipitch straight up the middle of the wall. The first pitch is one of the best harder routes at Sublime Point, featuring sustained thin crimping. Starts at FH on left edge of little overlap at ground level.
27m (26) Very sustained face climbing that took Neil several years to do. The red and black face with shallow pockets and flakes.
20m (22) This pitch is best done by moving the belay 10m left to 'Microdermabrasia', or doing a runout climb up to join the pitch at the third bolt. Out right, up a bit then back left to belay on comfy ledge. Contrived in the middle.
25m (-) This pitch is still a project. Feel free to do it! Looks 25ish.
FA: Neil Monteith & Will Monks, 2012
The epic 5 bolt extension past the lower anchor to finish up Sadomastication for last 2m. A great mix of crimps and sidepulls with an ever increasing pump to the very end. Hard 25 or easy 26.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2014
Micodermabrasia for 3 bolts then direct up the wall (via Reigning Steel for 2m) then leftwards on crimps to finish.
FA: Steve Grkovic, 2014
One of the more obvious 'lines' on this wall. Three sustained pitches up the guts of the left side of the wall with comfy belay ledges and phat ringbolts. Pitch 1 can be done alone as a great single pitch 23 if you want to lower off.
30m (23) Straight up to the base of the right facing and left leading big flake. Follow this to final tricky layback finish. Best to extend bolts on the right of the flake (60cm+ draws), so that your rope isn't pulled in over the sharp-ish edge of the flake. Belay on big ledge at giant staple bolt. You can lower from here.
25m (25) Balancy start then blast straight up the gorgeous orange wall above with final death by crimp section. Belay on ledge at double rings.
30m (24) Pumpy conclusion up the steep wall and corner above with a baffling reachy thin section down low. Either lower off the double rings just below the top or dirty mantle out to belay from a tree.
FA: Neil Monteith (p1, p3), Lucy Ellis (p2) & Adam Demmert, 2009
Sustained thin face left of the Microdermabrasia flake with a left trend. At about 15m it meets the Exile pitch 2 traverse. From here go up via Exile for a couple of moves then take the left trending ringbolts finishing at double double lower-off (this is not a typo!). A more logical (and easier) finish is via Exile.
FA: Steve Grkovic & Megan Turnbull, 2014
A sustained multi-pitch up the far left end of the wall, just before the fixed rope scramble. All pitches are well bolted, but higher up there is some loose rock.
20m (22) The holds get smaller the higher you get. At the last bolt drop down and bail left onto arete for a move before going up and right again.
15m (23) Whacky traverse right on bizarre scoops for a several bolts to meet up with Microdermabrasia and then up (crux) to easy ground and belay on small ledge. This can be linked into pitch 1.
25m (22) Through funny upside down corners (past fixd sling) and then follow the bolts and groovy features to belay ledge.
20m (22) Stellar orange rock up thin face to the belay.
5m (18) Optional short pitch to top out if required. Move up and left of final anchors past 2 bolts to big tree belay.
Set by Jason Lammers, 2012
FA: Jason Lammers (pitches 1 and 4), Neil Monteith (pitches 2 and 3), 2012
Some good pitches if the greenery gets cleared.
30m (-) Green corner of sorts to ledge and tree. You can skip this pitch by walking up to the base of 'Ben Trovato' Wall and walking L along the wide ledge to the crack.
40m (17) Crack splitting the left side of 'Ben Trovato' Wall, to chimney. Over roof, right onto wall, up through trees then into bottom of gully.
33m (-) 'Gully' to crusty bolt belay on left.
13m (-) Right and up to dead tree.
16m (-) 'Gully' as for 'Ben Trovato'.
Wanders all over the place!
30m (-) As for pitch 1 of 'Electra'
33m (-) Walk left along ledge to belay below corner.
33m (14) Straight up corner/groove, bolt runner at 25' , bolt anchor at ledge.
13m (-) Traverse right across wall, up and right to block.
23m (-) Keep traversing right across wall, down and around nose to dead tree.
FA: Bryden Allen, Martin Hader, 1964
For the next routes scramble up the 5m corner with short fixed rope on the far left end of Bentrovarto Wall (left of Exile) to higher ledge with a couple of small trees. Take care wandering around on this narrow ledge - a slip is fatal. Also be careful lowering people off these routes - the left routes are 30m high - with a 100m drop underneath them!